802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Ignition Lock

Choose a Year for your Saturn 's Ignition Lock

  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Genuine
    Genuine

Best Selling Genuine Saturn Ignition Locks

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Genuine, ACDelco
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Saturn Replacement Ignition Lock Parts

We stock Ignition Lock parts for most Saturn models, including SC2, SL1, SL2.

Genuine
2005 Saturn Relay Ignition Lock Assembly Genuine

P311-3A5A55F    W0133-1799054  New

Qty:
$48.14
Genuine Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Incl.Housing
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Saturn Relay
Genuine
2006 Saturn Relay Ignition Lock Assembly Genuine

P311-3A5A55F    W0133-1799054  New

Qty:
$48.14
Genuine Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Incl.HousingSmall Headed Keys
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Saturn Relay
ACDelco
2010 Saturn Sky Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-5543A72    W0133-1919915  New

Qty:
$64.31
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Incl.Housing
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2010 - Saturn Sky Automatic
ACDelco
1997 Saturn SL Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-0687816    W0133-1823915  New

Qty:
$72.37
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; 2nd DesignIncl.Housing
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Saturn SL
ACDelco
1999 Saturn SW1 Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-0687816    W0133-1823915  New

Qty:
$72.37
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Incl.Housing
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Saturn SW1

Latest Saturn Repair and Ignition Lock Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

saturn starter wont disengage

Showing 2 out of 23 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From scott22sc on saturn starter wont disengage

I have a 2002 SC2 with a starter problem that has me stumped. recently I went to shut the car off and the starter just started cranking in all key positions except in the run position...then it just idles like normal. I replaced the ignition switch and had it rekeyed as it was worn out anyway. I also replaced the ignition module while I was in there. My thought being that must be the problem because the starter runs in all key positions.... that did not fix the problem. Also, when I unplug the ignition module while the engine is cranking...it still keeps cranking. Does that mean the problem is a short somewhere?
Thanks for any advice
Scott

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Ignition module? What would that have to do with starter operation?
Did you replace the ignition switch or the ignition lock?

Response From scott22sc

I replaced both. The key switch is unrelated i'm sure but it has been getting harder to get the key to turn for over the last few months. As long as I was replacing the module where I thought the problem was I also changed out the lock.
scott

Response From Hammer Time

What module do you keep referring to. There is no module involving the starter.

Response From scott22sc

the part I am refering to is actually the switch that is bolted to the end of the ignition key assembly. Perhaps I should be calling it a switch rather than a module.
thanks

Response From Hammer Time

Don't waste your time looking for relays or fuses specifically for the starter it doesn't have any and people should know what's in the circuit before posting stuff like that.

Yes, that is a switch that you are referring to. Is this an auto or manual trans?

Response From scott22sc

Manual...I was thinking about this today at work and am wondering why when I connect the positive battery cable it does not try to start. but after I turn the key once to engage the starter It wont disingage until I pull the battery cable. if I had a short wouldnt the starter take off as soon as I hook up the cable?

Response From Hammer Time

You're just going to have to follow the circuit and determine where it's getting it's power from. Start with the trigger wire at the starter.

Response From scott22sc

thanks, I am heading back out with my multimeter. I was just running it and when I went to shut it off I took the positve battery cable off and then shut the car off about a minute later. it still ingaged the starter for a couple of revolutions. if power is not going from battery to starter it must be somewhere in the charging circuit right?

Response From Hammer Time

Response From scott22sc

I think I found the problem. I had the key out of the ignition.connected the battery cable and jumped the starter solonoid with a screwdriver. that caused the starter to ingage and not disengage after removing the screwdriver. i'm guessing the hold in windings in the starter.

Response From Hammer Time

That's entirely possible but it would also mean that you were totally wrong when you said it stopped when in the "run" position. The starter can't cause that.

Response From scott22sc

That is a good point. if it was still ingaged while the car is running it would be grinding which it is not. I think I will pull the starter and have it tested. Thanks again for all your help
scott

Response From Hammer Time

Just perform the test I suggested and don't buy anything yet.

Response From scott22sc

MY SATURN IS FIXED! ....thanks again. I pulled the purple wire and the problem was still there. I replaced the starter and it is working great.
Scott

Response From Hammer Time

Glad to hear you got it resolved.

Response From dr.donut

that selinioid is a relay, and I'll bet the batt. to starter cable is hot at all times, if it doesn't kick back when told to as long as it's in it's "engauged" position it will have power, don't buy cheap or rebuilt parts, (starters, alternators, sensors) ,buy new, ,the parts salemen in this area seem to think a garrantee means "no problems" and that I have time to swap out these parts when they fail after a month, as if buying inferior parts is business as usual, I go to the dealer, it cost more but you get what you pay for but to me it's a matter of principle

Response From Hammer Time

That won't really tell you anything because the starter will act differently with no load. What needs to be done is remove the purple wire at the starter while this is happening and see if the starter keeps going. That would indicate a bad starter.

Response From Mr.scotty

Sorry, your right HT.
Had a bad night last night.

Response From Old 396

Scott22sc,

As far as the remedies are concerned, I agree with everything that has been said so far. The only thing I can add would be the obvious and simple, and that would be a defective starter.

Response From Hammer Time

starter just started cranking in all key positions except in the run position.
Those symptoms don't jive with a bad starter.

Response From Mr.scotty


Response From scott22sc

I have not tried that yet. I will see what that does today
thanks

security light is on

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From doccr1 on security light is on

We have a1995 chevy lumina sedan with a 3.1 L engine and the security light is on. i can't find any info in my haynes manual, has anyone had this concern or can anyone shoot me some ideas?

Response From Hammer Time

If the car is starting and the light is not flashing, it means there is a fault code stored in the system and it will take a Tech2 scan tool to be able to diagnose it properly

This car is equipped with Passkey not Passlock so there is no relearn procedure for this vehicle. If you have a different key, you could try that first.

Response From Hemi Guy

There were a few TSB's and one recall out on this issue. Have those been addressed? If yes then go to a qualified locksmith and have a key cut from code. Note that a code key is cut from numbers. It's not simply duplicated from another key. If the issue still exisits tell us if there have been any electrical or electronic aftermarket installs. (See list below).

Remote start.
Remote door locks.
Remote windows.
After market alarm.
Any sort of after market anti theft device (Examples Lojack, passive starter disable, or anti car jacking).
Additioal interior or exterior lighting.

Response From Hammer Time

There were no recalls or even TSBs on this system in this vehicle.
Since it is accepting the Passkey code, the problem is not like in the ignition switch but like I said, you need to read the security codes to find out why it's on.

Response From Hemi Guy Top Rated Answer

doccr1,

I’m eighty four years old and retired from auto repair..I no longer keep an active database of recalls and tsb’s. If you’re the original owner of the Lumina you should have received the recall in the mail a long time ago. If you’re not the original owner of the vehicle unfortunately nothing can be done at this late date. You’re vehicle is a 1995 and soon we will be going into 2011. The recall has long expired and at this point would do you no good even if you had it. Recalls are valid for ten years only. The only reason I’m able to post this tsb is because I saved it. I had a connection at Alldata that would send me recalls and tsb’s when I needed them. January of last year I used this tsb to repair a passlock issue in a 96 Lumina. Unfortunately since that time I lost the connection I had at Alldata. On GM and Saturn vehicles (regardless of models and most years) the tsb shown here should fix the issue you are describing. Before applying the tsb I strongly recommend that you have a code key cut. If the code key does not resolve the issue let me know. There is one more thing I would like you try before applying the tsb.



This bulletin is being revised to add information on inspecting for electrical intermittent conditions and important connector C201 tightening steps. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-56-002 (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).

Condition
Some customers may comment on the following conditions. These symptoms may be intermittent.

• Security lamp illuminates while driving. The Security lamp may be On or Off when the customer brings the vehicle to the service facility.

• The engine cranks but will not start and the Security lamp is flashing.

• The engine starts then stalls and the Security lamp is flashing.

Cause
Condition(s) may be due to an incorrect Passlockâ„¢ sensor voltage received by the body control module (BCM) from the Passlockâ„¢ sensor due to the following conditions. Most intermittent conditions are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring.

• A 7 ohm variation in the sensor ground circuit wiring, circuit 1057

• A 100 ohm variation in the Passlock™ sensor signal wiring circuit, circuit 1836

Inspect for the following items:

• Broken wiring inside the insulation.

• A poor connection between the male and female terminal at the connector. Refer to Testing for Proper Terminal Contact under Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems for the specific procedure.

• A poor terminal to wire connection. Some conditions that fall under this description include poor crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over the wire insulation instead of the wire itself, and corrosion in the wire to terminal contact area.

• Wire insulation that is rubbed through. This causes an intermittent short as the bare area touches other wiring or parts of the vehicle.

• A poor connection between the male and female terminal at a connector. This poor connection may be the result of contamination or deformation.

- Contamination may be caused by the connector halves being improperly connected. A missing or damaged connector seal, damage to the connector itself, or exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt can also cause contamination. Contamination, usually in the underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion, causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.

• Separate the connector halves.

• Visually inspect the connector halves for contamination. Contamination may result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between terminals. This causes high terminal resistance, intermittent contact, or an open circuit. An underhood or underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety including the terminals, the seals, and the connector body.

- Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper adapter, improperly joining the connector halves, or repeatedly separating and joining the connector halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal connector tang, can result in poor terminal contact causing an open or intermittently open circuit. Using an equivalent male terminal from the J 38125-B, test that the retention force is significantly different between an good terminal and a suspect terminal. Replace the female terminal in question.

Correction
Have any of the following components had service recently?

• The BCM

• The ignition lock cylinder case assembly

• The PCM/VCM

If any of the above components have been replaced, the Programming Theft Deterrent System Components procedure must be performed before any diagnostic procedures are performed.

To assist in diagnosis, the following steps are provided.

Does the engine start? If not, use the Engine Cranks but Does Not Run diagnostic information in the Engine Controls sub-section of the applicable Service Manual.
Important:

• The Security telltale on the message center is controlled by the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system and the content theft deterrent (CTD) system. The Security telltale is controlled by the BCM through the Class 2 data line.

• The VTD system portion of the BCM controls the Security telltale when the ignition switch is in the On position. The VTD system uses the Security telltale as a malfunction indicator.

• The CTD system portion of the BCM controls the Security telltale when the ignition switch is in the Off position. The CTD system uses the Security telltale to identify system status.


Observe the Security indicator lamp in the instrument panel.
Remove the key from the lock cylinder.
- Security indicator should be Flashing when the door is open.

- Security indicator should be Off when all the doors are closed.

- If the Security indicator does not come On or go Off correctly, refer to the Content Theft Deterrent System diagnostic and repair information in the applicable Service Manual.

With the Doors closed, place the key in the lock cylinder and turn to the Run position. Observe the Security indicator lamp.
- Lamp is On and does not go Off however, the engine starts. This indicates that the VTD system detected a fault when the engine was running.

- Lamp flashes On and Off. This indicates a problem has been detected by the VTD (Passlockâ„¢) system and the engine may not start this key cycle, a current condition.

Important: You must diagnose the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in the order specified in the DTC table shown below. Failure to do so may result in one or more of the following conditions:


• Extended diagnostic time

• Incorrect diagnosis

• Incorrect parts replacement


DTC
Diagnostic Procedure
Module

Important: Before you use this table, diagnose P0601, P0602, P0604, and P0606. Refer to Diagnostic System Check - Theft Deterrent.


B2947
DTC B2947
BCM

B2948
DTC B2948
BCM

B2957
DTC B2957
BCM

B2958
DTC B2958
BCM

B2960
DTC B2960
BCM

B3031
DTC B3031
BCM

B3033
DTC B3033
BCM

P1626
DTC B1626
PCM

P1631
DTC B1631
PCM

PXXXX Other PCM DTCs

Refer to the following procedures:

• Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls - 4.3L

• Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls - 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0

• DTC P0192 in Engine Controls - 6.6L

• Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls in Engine Controls - 8.1L


If none of the above items are true, proceed with the following steps:

Install seat covers.
Connect the scan tool to the diagnostic link connector (DLC).
Enter scan tool diagnostics.
Select the model year of the vehicle.
Select light truck.
Select F1, (Body).
Select "C" or "K" for Series.
Select F0, Body Control Module.
Select F0, (Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)).
Select F0, (DTC information).
Select F0, (Current DTC).
Record on the repair order any current DTCs displayed. If none, skip the next step.
Is a current B2960 DTC displayed? If no, the condition is not present with this key cycle. Continue to the next step.
Select Exit.
Select F1, (History DTC).
Are any history DTCs other than B2960 present? If so, diagnose those DTCs first using the appropriate service information, otherwise continue.
Select Exit.
Select Exit.
Select F1, Data Display.
Select F6, Security.
Cycle the key to the OFF position and wait 20 seconds.
Slowly turn the key to the RUN position. Be careful not to turn the key into the START position.
Observe the following values:
- Passlockâ„¢ Data Voltage should be 5.0 volts.

- Passlockâ„¢ State should be Normal.

- Passlockâ„¢ Code should be Open.

Rotate the key to the START position, and observe the following again:
- Passlockâ„¢ Data Voltage should be less than 5.0 volts. Passlockâ„¢ Data Voltage should remain steady and not fluctuate. The test vehicle used for this diagnostic procedure had a voltage value of 2.49 volts. The vehicle being worked on may be either higher or lower than this value. The key is that it has to be less than 5.0 volts.

- Passlockâ„¢ State should be "Monitor Passlockâ„¢".

- Passlockâ„¢ Code should be Valid Code.

If no trouble is found and the customer has experienced one of the symptoms or the code is a history DTC, the most likely cause is the VTD (Passlockâ„¢) wiring, specifically the wires from the VTD (Passlockâ„¢) sensor to the BCM.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, let me clear something up for you on this incorrect info.

This car is not even equipped with Passlock. As I said before, it is a Passkey system and there are no TSBs that apply this this system and this vehicle. The TSB posted by Hemi Guy is worthless to you since your car doesn't even have that system.

I DO have current info on the vehicle

Response From Vincent

OK Hemi Guy or whoever you are. I've had enough of your nonsense

Response From Sidom

I'm assuming the car is starting & running ok...

Sometimes the security system will get a glitch in it an leave the light on. You can do a 10 minute relearn and that should turn the light out.

If you are unfamiliar with this procedure, just do a search on "10 minuter relearn" I'm sure something should come up, it's been posted a bunch of times......

Response From ghostrider

If anyone would know,Hammer is the person to ask.he has helped me out alot
does your owners manual say anything about it?