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2011 Ram Dakota Ignition Lock Assembly Dorman - Includes Key

P311-14E1F80    W0133-1675649  New

Qty:
$94.57
Dorman Ignition Lock Assembly
  • Exc.Remote Engine Start
  • Includes Key
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2011 - Ram Dakota Big Horn
Dorman
2011 Ram Dakota Ignition Lock Assembly Dorman - Includes Key

P311-14E1F80    W0133-1675649  New

Qty:
$94.57
Dorman Ignition Lock Assembly
  • Includes Key
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2011 - Ram Dakota ST

Latest Ram Repair and Ignition Lock Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

ignition wont turn

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From dallaskrueger on ignition wont turn

hi,
I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500, I had to replace the alternator so I disconnected the battery, I installed it and reconnected the battery and the alarm kept going off every time I turned the key and now that I reset the computer the alarm did stop but now the ignition wont turn anyone know what to do????

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Do you mean the key won't turn the ignition lock cylinder? Or do you mean the key turns to the start position, but the engine doesn't crank?

keyless entry

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From SOUDER on keyless entry

I have a 2002 pontiac grand am v6 ram air 3.4 CAN YOU BYPAS THE KEYLESS ENTRY SYSTEM THE CAR WONT START SOMETIMES AND I THINK THAF SYSTEM IS FAILING ANYONE KNOW HOW TO BYPASS IT SO GHE CAR WILL RUN

Response From SOUDER

CAN YOU BYPASS THE KEYLESS ENTRY SYSTEM AND SECURITY SYSTEM ON A 2002 PONTIAC GRAND AM

Response From Hammer Time

Are you reading impaired?

Response From SOUDER

I WAS LOOKING FOR A REAL ANSWER NOT SOME SMARTASS COMMENT

Response From Hammer Time

Well if you could read you would see that answer clearly and totally posted already.

Response From nickwarner

Look man, you asked a question and a man who makes his living by the knowledge he has of your car gave you a detailed, accurate and FREE answer promptly. For that, you are going out of your way to ignore his advice and going so far as to berate and disrespect him when he has given you the knowledge he charges people for in his shop. Smartass? Rude? You can't even figure out how to turn off your caps lock button! You are a prick and if this was my post I would delete the good advice given and tell you to find your answers elsewhere. Its Hammer's post so out of RESPECT (might want to look that word up as obviously you have never grasped the concept) to him I will leave that choice in his corner.

Dogs know better than to bite the hand that feeds. You ask for advice and bite the hand that feeds. Right now that dog is licking his own ass and yet somehow I think he's found some wisdom you are missing out on.

Response From Hammer Time

Funny how he missed the entire answer posted but he didn't miss the comment after.

Response From nickwarner

I guess he doesn't need a spare tire since he carries a spare chromasome too. It evens out, right?

HEY TEACHER! THIS WINDOW TASTES LIKE PURPLE!!

Response From Discretesignals

Just curious why you would want to bypass the keyless entry system since it has nothing to do with the running of the engine.

Response From Hammer Time

It's obvious he's talking about Passlock and calling it Keyless entry.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

One part of the system can be bypassed and that is the ignition switch sensor which is the most common failure.

If you find the black wire and the yellow wire from the passlock sensor in the column cut the wires and you can solder in a 2.2 K ohm resistor between them on the harness side and then attempt to start the car. It will stall. Don't turn the ignition off. Let the ignition on for ten minutes or until the theft light goes out.Turn the key off for ten seconds then attempt to start the car. If it now runs you have been successful. If it doesn't you either made a mistake or there are other problems besides the ignition lock cylinder. If the system has any problem beyond the key sensor, that has to be repaired.

Conventional oil to synthetic oil

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Macweb3000 on Conventional oil to synthetic oil

Hello gents! I had a quick question about oil. I use a high mileage conventional oil with my truck and I use 10w-40. Was looking at trying royal purple synthetic but they only make a 10w-30 would that change be acceptable?

Response From Hammer Time

Who knows?

You didn't post any year, make, model or engine size.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I didn't think any engine suggested use of 10w-40 for decades now. What is this as already asked. Synthetics come with a lot of urban lore but clearly are more capable and all are supposed to be compatible. Range can differ from the ways some test determines the viscosity ratings and should state that it covers the OE specs for what is called for.


IMO it's best property is tolerance to temps, not sludging up and it pours and circulated when cold better and faster than the same rated conventional oil just witnessed by me not some SAE test results.


Any needs to be changed on suggested schedules. I don't buy into that 15,000 mile bull I see out there one bit,


T

Response From Discretesignals

2000 dodge ram 1500 5.2L V8?

If so, did you ever find out what your problem was with it lacking power? 10w-30 would work just fine. The only problem is that if you have a tired, worn out, leaking engine, putting expensive oil in it is a waste of money in my opinion.

Response From Macweb3000

I did forget to mention that it did something weird a few weeks ago but hasn't done anything since I was pulling out of work and made a u turn and as I stepped on he gas coming out of the u turn the rpms raised above 2000 but the truck failed to gain speed. When I noticed what was going on I took my foot off the gas and it seemed to jolt very slightly when it hit 800 rpms and it felt like it engaged again. Has been perfect ever since. The rear diff has a leak I plan on fixing that soon and I did change the tranny oil out a few thousand miles ago but the previous owner never really took good care of the tranny so I'm doing another drain and fill with a magnet clean and new filter for the hell of it cause last time the magnet looked like a slimy silvery grey fungus. Last thing to catch you up on all the symptoms it does have some rather rough engagements from park to reverse, reverse to drive and so forth nothing alarming but a noticeable jolt.

Response From Macweb3000 Top Rated Answer

Yes it is the 2000 dodge ram 1500 5.2l V8. And it's not leaking oil that much anymore some old stuff around some seals from some old problems but I recently took of the valve covers and replaces the gaskets and new grommets for the crank case breather and pcv valve. Fuel trim looks good better than I thought, no codes or anything. Does smell a little rich coming out the back and I am getting 10-11 miles to the gallon. Oxygen sensors are fairly new I'm not sure if the cats could be acting up a little still haven't checked them out fully. I do know I'm having some squeaking and knocking sounds from the upper right hand side closest to the passenger head light I believe it's called the leak detector module it's the only thing that clicks and sounds like the squeaking is coming from it. Don't really know if it could cause a lot of problems without throwing any codes. I also did just tune up my ignitions system new coil new ignition lock new rotor and cap same wires but they are still good and I switched from iridium back to copper plus champion spark plugs. Other than that I'm not really sure I was going to check for some vacuum leaks soon but I don't expect to find anything. It's all original equipment 105000 miles on it passed smog with flying colors and it's perfect at idle except when I start it it idles for 3-6 minutes at 850-1100 rpms then goes to 600-650. Not really sure if you guys have any guesses.