802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Ignition Lock

Choose a Year for your Chevrolet 's Ignition Lock

  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1985

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • Genuine
    Genuine

Best Selling Genuine Chevrolet Ignition Locks

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, ACDelco, Genuine
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Chevrolet Replacement Ignition Lock Parts
Dorman
2017 Chevrolet Express 4500 Ignition Lock Assembly Dorman

P311-2D6EB6A    W0133-1799555  New

Qty:
$101.92
Dorman Ignition Lock Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Chevrolet Express 4500
Dorman
2010 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD Ignition Lock Assembly Dorman

P311-2D6EB6A    W0133-1799555  New

Qty:
$101.92
Dorman Ignition Lock Assembly
  • Eng:L96
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2010 - Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD FLEX
ACDelco
1996 Chevrolet S10 Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-4D9DF65    W0133-1800009  New

Qty:
$25.33
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Housing
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
1996 - Chevrolet S10 Automatic
ACDelco
2004 Chevrolet Corvette Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-2EA7215    W0133-1800736  New

Qty:
$111.21
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Chevrolet Corvette
ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-2918999    W0133-1800064  New

Qty:
$50.90
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Housing
  • Includes Tumbler, Springs and Retainers
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic
ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-2918999    W0133-1800064  New

Qty:
$50.90
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Housing4 Position
  • Includes Tumbler, Springs and Retainers
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic
ACDelco
2006 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-2918999    W0133-1800064  New

Qty:
$50.90
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • OptionalIncl.Housing4 Position
  • Includes Tumbler, Springs and Retainers
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Chevrolet Suburban 2500
ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 Classic Ignition Lock Assembly 8 Cyl 6.6L ACDelco

P311-2918999    W0133-1800064  New

Qty:
$50.90
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Housing4Position
  • Includes Tumbler, Springs and Retainers
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 3500 Classic LS V 8 Cyl 6.6L 403 6599
ACDelco
2010 Chevrolet Cobalt Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-5543A72    W0133-1919915  New

Qty:
$63.79
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chevrolet Cobalt
ACDelco
1995 Chevrolet Corvette Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-3A932A3    W0133-1799644  New

Qty:
$109.03
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Cylinder Head Type
1995 - Chevrolet Corvette Manual OHV
ACDelco
1995 Chevrolet Corvette Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-5853CFD    W0133-1799646  New

Qty:
$65.80
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
1995 - Chevrolet Corvette Automatic
ACDelco
1995 Chevrolet Corvette Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-3A932A3    W0133-1799644  New

Qty:
$109.03
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Cylinder Head Type
1995 - Chevrolet Corvette Manual OHV
ACDelco
1988 Chevrolet G30 Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-5DAC4E3    W0133-1800810  New

Qty:
$32.22
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Single Key SystemIncl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Chevrolet G30
ACDelco
1994 Chevrolet S10 Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-5D0FBC3    W0133-1800152  New

Qty:
$47.80
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Tilt Steering WheelIncl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Chevrolet S10
ACDelco
1999 Chevrolet P30 Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-5D0FBC3    W0133-1800152  New

Qty:
$47.80
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Chevrolet P30
ACDelco
1996 Chevrolet G30 Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-5D0FBC3    W0133-1800152  New

Qty:
$47.80
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Exc.Single Key SystemIncl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Chevrolet G30
Genuine
2008 Chevrolet Colorado Ignition Lock Assembly Genuine

P311-2510484    W0133-1801633  New

Qty:
$53.39
Genuine Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Incl.Housing
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Chevrolet Colorado
Genuine
2012 Chevrolet Colorado Ignition Lock Assembly Genuine

P311-2510484    W0133-1801633  New

Qty:
$53.39
Genuine Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Chevrolet Colorado
ACDelco
1989 Chevrolet R3500 Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-02EC22F    W0133-3551466  New

Qty:
$34.97
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Incl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Chevrolet R3500
ACDelco
1989 Chevrolet R3500 Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-02EC22F    W0133-3551466  New

Qty:
$34.97
ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • Professional
  • Incl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Chevrolet R3500

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Ignition Lock Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2000 Chevrolet HD 3500 Diesel won't start

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From wccarrolljr on 2000 Chevrolet HD 3500 Diesel won't start

I've got a 2000 Chevy HD3500 dump truck. The dealer says the truck doesn't have a security system. There is a Security light and when it is on it will crank but not start. I found a diode in the fuse block that isn't marked. Had it checked and they said it was bad and replaced it. The security light went out and the truck started right up. Two days later, got in truck and security light stays on and truck won't start. The light is on steady and not flashing.

Response From wccarrolljr

To update everyone. I've got a guy coming over tomorrow morning with a scanner. In the meantime I did the relearn procedure and the truck started and ran fine. The service engine soon light is on so maybe he can get a code off of it. I'm going to try and start it before he gets here. Hope I don't have to do the relearn procedure every time. Thanks everyone for your input and help. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Obviously, your dealer is wrong. You have a Passlock security system. You could have a number of different issues with the circuit but the most common is the sensor in the ignition switch.

If that is the case and we don't know it is, you can either replace the lock or bypass the sensor.

PASSLOCK SENSOR BYPASS

Look for the black/orange wire and the yellow wire from the passlock sensor in the column, cut the wires and you can solder in a 2.2 K ohm resistor connecting them together and then perform the relearn. Attempt to start the car.It will stall don't turn the ignition off.Let the ignition on for ten minutes or until the theft light goes out.Turn the key off for ten seconds then attempt to start the car.If it now runs you have been successful.If it doesn't you either made a mistake or there are other problems besides the ignition lock cylinder

If you choose to change the ignition lock, you will still have to perform the relearn procedure after.


EDIT: Double J got in there while I was answering. Use his procedure first.

Response From wccarrolljr

Ignition keys don't have the paas key. I think the truck has some sort of ignition interrupt instead of a security system like all other trucks.

Response From Hammer Time

No, you have Passlock. The keys don't use transponders but you still have an immobilizer.

If your light is not flashing, it's probably not a bad sensor.

Response From Double J

I see you did an edit to include light is on steady and not flashing.

See if it stored any codes first , then you have something to go on.

Response From Double J

I'm not a diesel guy at all so I don't know if this has one or not.
But I would think, based on what you said, it must have and there may be a code stored.

First things first, get access to a high end scan tool that can read these codes.

I did find a TSB (Tech bulletin) ,not sure if it applies or will help or not but here you go....



Subject:Security Lamp Illuminated on the IP, Engine Stalls, No Start, DTC B2960 (Security System Sensor Data Incorrect but Valid) Set (Inspect and Repair Cause of DTC B2960) #01-08-56-004A - (09/13/2001) Models:1998-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Old Style) and Utility (Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon) (Old Style) Models
2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 3500HD Pickup Models (Old Style)
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade

This bulletin is being revised to change a cavity number in Step 34 of the procedure. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-56-004 (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories). Condition
Some customers may comment on the following conditions.

These symptoms may be intermittent.

• The Security lamp illuminates while driving. The Security lamp may be On or Off when the customer brings the vehicle to the service facility.

• The engine cranks but will not start and the Security lamp is flashing.

• The engine starts then stalls and the Security lamp is flashing.

Cause


The condition(s) may be due to an incorrect Passlockâ„¢ sensor voltage received by the EVO/Passlockâ„¢ module from the Passlockâ„¢ sensor due to the following conditions. Most intermittent conditions are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring.

• A 7 ohm variation in the sensor ground circuit wiring, circuit 1057

• A 100 ohm variation in the Passlock™ sensor signal wiring circuit, circui
t 1836


Inspect for the following items:

• Broken wiring inside the insulation.

• A poor connection between the male and female terminal at the connector. Refer to Testing for Proper Terminal Contact under Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems for the specific procedure.

• A poor terminal to wire connection. Some conditions that fall under this description include poor crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over the wire insulation instead of the wire itself, and corrosion in the wire to terminal contact area.

• Wire insulation that is rubbed through. This causes an intermittent short as the bare area touches other wiring or parts of the vehicle.

• A poor connection between the male and female terminal at a connector. This poor connection may be the result of contamination or deformation.

• Contamination may be caused by the connector halves being improperly connected. A missing or damaged connector seal, damage to the connector itself, or exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt can also cause contamination. Contamination, usually in the underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion, causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.

- Separate the connector halves.

- Visually inspect the connector halves for contamination. Contamination may result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between terminals. This causes high terminal resistance, intermittent contact, or an open circuit. An underhood or underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety including the terminals, the seals, and the connector body.

• Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper adapter, improperly joining the connector halves, or repeatedly separating and joining the connector halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal connector tang, can result in poor terminal contact causing an open or intermittently open circuit. Using an equivalent male terminal from the J 38125-B, test that the retention force is significantly different between an good terminal and a suspect terminal. Replace the female terminal in question.

Correction


Have any of the following components had service recently?

• The theft deterrent module (This module is called the EVO/Passlock™ module in published service information.)

• The ignition lock cylinder case assembly

• The ignition switch • The PCM/VCM



If any of the above components have been replaced, the Passlockâ„¢ Learning procedure must be performed before any diagnostic procedures are performed.


To assist in diagnosis, the following steps are provided.

  1. Does the engine start? If not, use the Engine Cranks but Does Not Run diagnostic information in the Engine Controls sub-section of the applicable Service Manual.

  2. Observe the Security indicator lamp in the instrument panel when you turn the key to the RUN position. Does the indicator lamp show any of the following conditions:

  3. • The lamp is On for five seconds, then goes Off. This is normal operation. The engine should start and run.

    • The lamp is On and does not go Off. This indicates a problem is detected but the engine starts. This indicates that the fault occurred when the engine was running.

    • The lamp flashes On and Off. This indicates a problem has been detected, this ignition cycle, by the Passlock system and the engine will not start.

    • The lamp does not come On. This is abnormal operation. Use the Security Indicator Inoperative diagnostic in the Theft Deterrent subsection of the applicable Service Manual.


Important You must diagnose the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) in the order specified in the DTC table shown below. Failure to do so may result in one or more of the following conditions:


• Extended diagnostic time

• Incorrect diagnosis

• Incorrect parts replacement


DTC
Concern is
Diagnostic Procedure
U1016
Serial Data Problem, Circuit 1807
A Diagnostic System Check - Data Link Communications in Data Link Communications subsection of the applicable Service Manual


U1255
Serial Data Communication malfunction, Circuit 1807
A Diagnostic System Check - Data Link Communications in Data Link Communications subsection of the applicable Service Manual


B2847 (Low Circuit Voltage)
Circuit 812, Red/White wire from the lock cylinder housing to the Theft Deterrent Module
A Diagnostic System Check - Theft Deterrent subsection of the applicable Service Manual


B2848 (High Circuit Voltage)
Circuit 812, Red/White wire from the lock cylinder housing to the Theft Deterrent Module
A Diagnostic System Check - Theft Deterrent subsection of the applicable Service Manual


B2957 (Low Circuit Voltage)
Circuit 1836, Yellow wire from the lock cylinder housing to the Theft Deterrent Module
A Diagnostic System Check - Theft Deterrent subsection of the applicable Service Manual


B2958 (High Circuit Voltage)
Circuit 1836, Yellow wire from the lock cylinder housing to the Theft Deterrent Module
A Diagnostic System Check - Theft Deterrent subsection of the applicable Service Manual


B2960 (Sensor Voltage Out of Range)
Circuit 1057, Orange/Black wire from the lock cylinder housing to the Theft Deterrent Module
A Diagnostic System Check - Theft Deterrent subsection of the applicable Service Manual


To assist in diagnosis/repair, the following step by step instructions are provided:

  1. Install seat covers.

  2. Connect the scan tool to the diagnostic link connector (DLC).

  3. Enter scan tool diagnostics.

  4. Select the model year of the vehicle.

  5. Select light truck.

  6. Select F1, (Body).

  7. Select "C" or "K" for Series.


  1. Select F2, (Passlock).

  2. Select F0, (Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)).

  3. Select F0, (DTC information).

  4. Select F0, (Current DTC).

  5. Record on the repair order any current DTCs displayed. If none, skip the next step.

  6. Is a current B2960 DTC displayed? If no, the condition is not present with this key cycle. Continue to the next step.

  7. Select Exit.

  8. Select F1, (History DTC).

  9. Are any history DTCs other than B2960 present? If so, diagnose those DTCs first using the appropriate service information, otherwise continue.

  10. Select Exit.

  11. Select Exit.


  1. Select F1, (Data Display).

  2. Select F1, (Data).


  3. Cycle the key to the OFF position and wait 20 seconds.

  4. Slowly turn the key to the RUN position. Be careful not to turn the key into the START position.

  5. Observe the following values:

  6. • Passlock™ Data Voltage should be 5.0 volts.

    • Passlock™ State should be Normal.

    • Passlock™ Code should be Open.

  7. Rotate the key to the START position, and observe the following again:

  8. • Passlock™ Data Voltage should be less than 5.0 volts. Passlock™ Data Voltage should remain steady and not fluctuate. The test vehicle used for this diagnostic procedure had a voltage value of 2.49 volts. The vehicle being worked on may be either higher or lower than this value. The key is that it has to be less than 5.0 volts.

    • Passlock™ State should be "Monitor Passlock™".

    • Passlock™ Code should be Valid Code.

  9. If no trouble is found and the customer has experienced one of the symptoms or the code is a history DTC, the most likely cause is the Passlockâ„¢ wiring, specifically the wires from the Passlockâ„¢ sensor to the Theft Deterrent module.


  10. Warning! This vehicle is equipped with a Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System. Failure to follow the correct procedure could cause the following conditions:


    1. Air bag deployment

    2. Personal injury

    3. Unnecessary SIR system repairs

  11. In order to avoid the above conditions, observe the following guidelines.

  12. Open the hood. Install fender covers.

  13. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


  1. Disable the SIR system using the following steps:

  2. • Turn the steering wheel so that the vehicle's wheels are pointing straight ahead.

    • Remove the key from the lock cylinder.





    • Remove the I/P cluster trim bezel by grasping the corners of the bezel and pulling the bezel rearward in order to disengage the retaining clips.


    • Remove the left sound insulator panel (if equipped), the knee bolster, and the knee bolster support.


    • Remove the connector position assurance (CPA) from the yellow 8-way connector, (C231) above (2) located at the bottom of the I/P just to the left of the steering column, and disconnect the connector.• Remove the connector position assurance (CPA) from the yellow 4-way connector, (C232) above (7) located at the bottom of the I/P just to the left of the steering column, and disconnect the connector.
  3. Cut and remove the wiring harness tie straps from the steering column wire harness (the lower one).



  4. Remove the screw that retains connector C266 to the mounting bracket.
  5. Loosen the screw holding the wiring harness connectors together at the connector C266 (2) and separate the connection.



  6. Separate the turn signal and multifunction switch harness (2) from the 18-way connector (1). They have a locking tab in the center of each connector that needs to be released.

  7. Important For all vehicles, use either the correct mating terminal, or electrical tool GM# 12094430, (J 38125-11A) (Blue) from the J 38125-B Terminal Repair kit. Perform a pull test to determine if the terminals have proper tension. If one is found where the tension is suspect, replace the terminal.
  8. Circuit number 1057, Orange with Black stripe wire, in cavity C4.

  9. Circuit number 812, Red with White stripe wire, in cavity B1.
    Circuit number 1836, Yellow wire, in cavity D3.
  10. On the end of the 18-way connector is the date the ignition switch wiring harness was manufactured. This date is etched in the plastic of the connector. It is displayed as two lines of numbers (ie: GM XXX, XXXX). The bottom row of four digits are the digits that must be verified. Do not be confused by the single row of four digits on one end of the connector. These four digits are the connector part number. If two rows are not found, the following procedure must be performed. The following defines the four digits:
  11. • Month (1) Alpha/Numeric Character (1= January, 4 = April, 9 = September, O = October, N = November, etc.)• Day (2) numbers (01-31)• Year (1) Number (9 =1999, 0 = 2000)
  12. If the date code is less than N080, (November 08, 2000), place a drop of solder to the wire and terminal interfaces on the wires in the following cavities:
  13. • Circuit number 1057, Orange/Black wire in cavity C4• Circuit number 812, Red/White wire in cavity B1• Circuit number 1836, Yellow wire in cavity D3
  14. Reconnect the turn signal and multifunction switch harness (2) from the 18-way connector (1).

  15. Important Connector bolt torque is critical. Tightening the bolt to 7 N·m (61 lb in) may cause the pal nut of the connector to strip. Tightening the bolt less than 4 N·m (35 lb in) may result in an intermittent connection.
  16. Connect the 48-way connector (C266) to the vehicle's wiring harness. Tighten the screw holding the wiring harness connectors together.

  17. Tighten
    Tighten the retaining screw to 6 N·m (53 lb in).
  18. Cycle the steering column tilt from full up to full down a minimum of ten times.
  19. Squeeze the ends of connector C266 together with your fingers, forcing the terminals and connector to properly seat together.
  20. Recheck the retaining screw for connector C266 torque.

  21. Tighten
    Tighten the retaining screw holding the wiring harness connectors together to 6 N·m (53 lb in).
  22. Again, cycle the steering column tilt from full up to full down a minimum of ten times.
  23. Again, squeeze the ends of connector C266 together with your fingers, forcing the terminals and connector to properly seat together.
  24. Recheck the retaining screw for connector C266 torque.

  25. Tighten
    Tighten the retaining screw holding the wiring harness connectors together to 6 N·m (53 lb in).
  26. Again, cycle the steering column tilt from full up to full down a minimum of ten times.
  27. Again, squeeze the ends of connector C266 together with your fingers, forcing the terminals and connector to properly seat together.
  28. Recheck the retaining screw for connector C266 torque.

  29. Tighten
    Tighten the retaining screw holding the wiring harness connectors together to 6 N·m (53 lb in).
  30. Install the knee bolster support to the IP.
  31. • Connect the lap cooler hose to the knee bolster.• Connect the brake release cable to the park brake assembly.• Snap the knee bolster into the I/P assembly.• Install the knee bolster screws.
    Tighten
    Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
  32. Connect the headlight switch wiring connectors to the I/P bezel and install the bezel.



  33. Connect the yellow 4-way connector C232 (7) and install the CPA.
  34. Connect the yellow 8-way connector C231 (2) and install the CPA.
  35. Connect the negative battery cable.
  36. Observe the Security indicator lamp when the key is turned to the RUN position. The Security lamp should come On for five seconds, then go Off. If it doesn't, you must recheck your work.
  37. Observe the SIR lamp. The lamp should be Off.
  38. Remove the fender covers and close the hood.
  39. Remove the seat covers.
Warranty Information

03 Cavalier won't start

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From Esredlak on 03 Cavalier won't start

2003
Chevrolet
Cavalier LS
2.2 Ecotec
111,xxx miles

A couple of days ago I made the mistake of leaving my lights on when I got home from work. When I woke up my car wouldn't start. Tried to jump the battery and that didn't work. Took the battery to O'Reilley's and they OK'd it and charged it for me. It still didn't work so I took it back and returned it and got a brand new battery. Still won't start. The car will turn the motor over but won't "catch" and start (the starter isn't just clicking, it's engaging enough to turn it over and rock the car a little). My gas tank is 3 quarters full so I'm not out of gas. I plan on taking my starter out and taking it to O'Reilleys to have it inspected soon. Possibly my alternator as well.

In short - My car will turn over but won't start with a brand new battery after I left the lights on all night.
I'm no genius, and am stumped. What could the problem(s?) be and how can I diagnose/fix them? Thanks ahead of time

Response From Tom Greenleaf

From the read the engine cranks but wont start so why are you concerned with starter or alternator? It's lacking spark or fuel delivery or some anti theft or aftermarket remote start or something that didn't like a totally dead battery. Just disconnecting them without a memory saver causes enough troubles on several.

You need to check for spark and fuel delivered yes or no and find out which then chase down why,

T

Response From Esredlak

To test for a spark I'll need to remove one of the spark plugs and plug a tester into the spark plug wire, correct?
How can I test for fuel delivery? I can hear the whirring of the fuel pump when the key is turned to the ON position.

EDIT:
Thank you for your help.

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Esredlak - to add: Check for spark between plug wire and plug. There are testers that will just light up with each jolt of spark or ones that show how far it will jump a gap. With this issue I'd just want to know if spark or not without worrying about power of spark just yet.

Fuel pump noise is good but not conclusive that enough pressure is available OR that injectors are being triggered to add fuel. You could try just spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid into throttle body (re-assemble parts first after if you try that) and if it fires up for a couple seconds it probably is a fuel issue and can focus on that instead of spark just gets it narrowed down.

Why this all happened just as it did isn't clear to me. If equipped with anti-theft devices I would hope it wouldn't crank at all but can't venture a guess on how all those things work of assorted designs. Aftermarket stuff if applicable seems to cause the most problems for owners!

Test away,

T

Response From Esredlak Top Rated Answer

Alright, will do when I get home from work.
It could possibly be the spark plugs themselves, I bought the car at 108k miles and took it on word that the 60k maintenance was performed, but I don't know why a power loss would inflame their situation.
It may be an anti-theft feature as every time I open the door the car alarm starts to go off and stops when I turn the key. I had not even thought that this could be the problem. It had a Theftloc radio (OEM) that would go into it's Theftloc mode after power loss or disconnection of the battery but I replaced it with a Pioneer. I'm researching the possibility now, but like you said I didn't think it would crank at all. Maybe it just kills power to the plugs.

Hammer Time - Thank you sir.

EDIT: I found this in my manual...
Your vehicle is equipped with the Passlock theft-deterrent system. Passlock is a passive theft-deterrent system. Passlock enables fuel if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a valid key. If a correct key is not used or the ignition lock cylinder is tampered with, fuel is disabled.

Maybe Passlock thinks my key is invalid or the ignition has been tampered with. As of this point I have NOT disconnected or removed anything from my car. This would be apparent if the starter fluid worked in the intake and I was getting a spark - correct?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You just said ">>As of this point I have NOT disconnected or removed anything from my car. This would be apparent if the starter fluid worked in the intake and I was getting a spark - correct?"

If you removed than replaced the battery how did you do that without disconnecting it? If this was enough and no memory saver used OR battery was dead enough the car thought (likly) that it was being tampered with and is on the list now. Memory would be lost and may no longer recognise the correct key.

Sparks plugs? All at once would be highly unlikely unless somehow they were seriously flooded out but spark test would still work if tested plug wire to plug or just grounded.

About now I think this passlock is the problem. Now with replacement radio it could be tricky if so to re-aquaint car with the key. Hammer Time may know what the next best step is.............

T

Response From Esredlak

Ahh, you are correct I misspoke. I did remove the battery, but have not tampered with anything else. I did some reading online about the passlock system and I may be able to "reteach" the system. I'll update later.

Response From Hammer Time

If you have a Passlock issue you will have a security light on or flashing when you try to start it. The usual symptom of Passlock interruption is "start and stall".

Response From Esredlak

Thanks for the help guys! I feel like an idiot for not seeing the Anti-Theft in the beginning. Mine didn't quite start and stall but didn't start at all.
Before I even saw your posts I had found this trick hunting in Google and when I got home from work I tried it. It worked like a charm. Another Cavalier owner mentioned Passlock engaging in their post and I posted the steps that I took to get her running again. I just joined these forums and posted my problem but I'm definitely keeping this in my favorites in case I can help with issues I have already encountered.
I am so glad to hear the engine start.
P.S. Do you happen to know off the top of your head if any other manufacturers have a system that doesn't supply fuel in case of "theft"? Just curious.

Response From Hammer Time

Do you happen to know off the top of your head if any other manufacturers have a system that doesn't supply fuel in case of "theft"? Just curious.

Yep, most all of them. GM Passlock is the only one that you can do any owner programming though.

Response From Esredlak

Well as slightly miffed as I was with GM for the Passlock I am actually kind of grateful that it DID allow for owner programming.

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, anyone else's security system fails and you're on your way to the dealer.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If security light is lit and would think so and have to guess as I don't see every vehicle out there then there was a problem solved at this site with this procedure and suggest trying it...........

Link to that thread.........

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/1999_Chevy_Silverado_SECURITY_light_on_TRUCK_WILL_NOT_START...._P102268/

Seriously - I would be hunting down procedures and "knock on wood" haven't needed to as I always use memory savers if only to save radio presets, clock and lots more.

Important for decades of models more than just radio and clock even if just annoying to set non essential things. If O'Reillys is the parts outlet you choose then just ask them about memory savers. You should use one if only to clean battery cable connections or replace them as needed.

Hammer may be hitting and posting as I type but try that process at that thread as I can't see it hurting anything,

T

2005 Chev Avalanche continues cranking after letting go of key

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From avalanavig on 2005 Chev Avalanche continues cranking after letting go of key

I have a 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche with the 5.3 V-8.

When one goes to start the engine it sometimes continues cranking after the engine starts and you let go of the key . Sometimes it only does it momentarily; sometimes you have to manually bring the key back so it stops cranking. I have gotten several opinions. Some say ignition switch in the steering column; others say starter/solenoid; others say electrical problem such as a relay.

I replaced the starter relay but that did not fix the problem.

One problem in regard to repair is it only does it sporadically and it never does it when I take it to the shop.

Anyone have an idea what the problem is ? Thanks in advance for any help on this.

Response From Bojames

I doubt seriously that your problem is in the starter......
Does you vehicle have a tilt column? If so try moving it into different settings and see if the problem persist.
I also doubt that it is the Ignition switch in the column. When you turn the key, the switch pushes a rod
down throught the steering column that actually engages an electrical switch that mounts on top of the column (under the dash). You might check to see if something is binding the rod.

Response From avalanavig

Bojames: thanks for the reply. I will change the tilt position of the column to see if that helps. I went to the Chevy dealer and described the problem to the the service rep who told me it was the fuel pump. Is that possible?

Response From Bojames

Caleb,

Not sure about the "fuel pump" thing...Who knows with the computerized cars.
I'm an "old school" mechanic so my expertise (if I have any) are in practical solutions.
Since the invention of catalitic converters, computers, and "little black boxes" my "shade tree" days have been over.

Response From avalanavig

Bojames:

Hey, I think it was the tilt. The sterring column was tilted all the way down. I tilted it up a bit and it hasn't done it since. Strange. Thanks for the suggestion.

Response From avalanavig

No one anywhere was able to tell me what the cause of the problem is, so I decided to try a new starter and solenoid in the hope that would solve the problem. I went to Advance auto parts and got the starter in my hands. While reading the literature (before buying) I found a flyer which said as follows:

""GHOST START" Starter Cranks After Key Is Released On Cold Start
Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe .... with 4.8L, 5.3L ....Gas Engine
Condition: Owners of these vehicles may comment that the engine starter will continue to run after key is released. This is a normal condition and no repairs should be attempted ...." Ha!!

What can one say when the fact is that either no repair facility that I took the vehicle to knew about this condition; or they didn't tell me about it in order to sell me something I didn't need. The local Maroone Chevrolet dealer service manager told me that I needed a new fuel pump. How can anyone trust any auto repair business?

Response From Hammer Time

And yet you come to us for free advice....................

Maybe no one you talked to had the opportunity to read that factory Technical Service Bulletin recently and wasn't aware. Obviously the starter company was getting numerous warranty returns that caused them to look into the problem and find the bulletin. In the future, don't be so quick to condemn everyone in the business. We take that personally.

PS, If you read this bulletin, you will see that one of the reasons for a long crank like that is the fuel pump not building up pressure quickly enough so in that case, you may actually need a fuel pump. The bulletin says your starting system needs no repairs but I do believe you need a fuel pump.


Here is the TSB in full.



Bulletin No.: 03-06-03-001D
Date: August 02, 2007
INFORMATION Subject:
Starter Cranks After key Is Released (Normal Condition) Models:
2003-2008 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn)
2003-2008 HUMMER H2, H3
2005-2008 Saab 9-7X Attention: This bulletin ONLY applies to vehicles with PCM/ECM controlled starters.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-03-001C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Some customers may comment that the engine starter will continue to run after the key is released.
For the 2003 through 2008 model years, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Engine Control Module (ECM) controls the starter relay based on input from the key switch. When the ignition switch is held in the start position for 0.4 seconds, the PCM/ECM start timer is activated. Once the start timer is activated, the PCM/ECM will continue to crank the starter until either the engine starts or a no start time limit is reached.
Occasionally, the fuel pump module will take one or two seconds to build fuel pressure. Often this will occur after the vehicle sits overnight. During some vehicle starts, the customer may release the ignition switch, key before the engine actually starts. When this occurs, the engine will then continue to crank until the engine starts or the no start time limit is reached.
This is a normal condition and no repairs should be attempted for this condition.

Response From avalanavig

Hammer Time: Thanks for taking the time to provide a detailed response. If you read my last post carefully you will see that I am not critical of the free information I received from the forums. I understand that all the free info has to be "taken with a grain of salt" as it were. I was being critical of the actual repair facilities that I took the vehicle to here in the city where I live. They all wanted to sell me a computer analysis.

An honest competent repair facility would have provided me with the information in the bulletin at the time they offer a computer analysis. The places I took the vehicle to were either dishonest or incompetent. There is no other conclusion. It is unfortunate that you take it personally. Just because the places I took it to were dishonest or incompetent does not mean every repair facility is dishonest or incompetent, but I am concerned that the places I took it to may be representative of the entire auto repair industry.

Hypothetical: The service manager knew about the bulletin. But times are tough; have to bring in business/raise revenues; so you sell the customer a computer analysis and then tell him the info from the bulletin as if it came from the computer analysis. Then tell him he may need a new fuel pump and that he should do it now to avoid being left stranded. Charge him $100.00. for the computer analysis.

Is this dishonest? a little dishonest?

I live in Miami. Maybe they are representative of the auto repair business in Miami. You may say that the facilities I went to are not representative of all auto repair facilities. But I am skeptical. How does one know????

Response From Hammer Time

An honest competent repair facility would have provided me with the information in the bulletin at the time they offer a computer analysis. The places I took the vehicle to were either dishonest or incompetent. There is no other conclusion.

I totally disagree with you here.

First off, when a customer approaches the write up desk at any facility, there will never be a diagnosis made there, no matter how obvious it may appear. The people in this business know that things are not always what they appear to be and until they are investigated completely, any premature diagnosis can come back to bite them in the ass.

Second, the guy doing the write up is not the guy that has the technical knowledge. He is merely making arrangements for that person to examine the car. The first steps to any diagnosis is to first verify the complaint before doing anything. This is the point where the technician and only the technician would look into the data base for any possible TSBs on that problem. In this case he would have found out that the starter circuit was operating properly BUT something else in the vehicle is causing the system to crank longer than it should be. This is where the fuel pump diagnosis comes in, which I do agree with.

Now, this data base that supplies this information does not come free. We pay dearly for this service every month so this cost has to be passed on. The technician that spent all this time road testing your car, researching the data base for information and subsequently going back and testing this system's fuel system and anything else that could be triggering the long crank, has to be compensated for his time. Also remember not every shop has access to these information bulletins nor a technician smart enough to check them so don't confuse their incompetence or lack of tools with dishonestly.

Everyone is real quick to say they were ripped off but if they had any idea what it takes to stay current in this business and not make any mistakes in diagnosis, they would be very shocked.

Response From Trevman243

Sorry that was my bad, didn't have my glasses on when i saw the question and thanks for the diagram Hammer i was looking for one of those

Response From Trevman243

I just worked on one that flat out wouldnt crank, theres a fuse that blows that messes with the whole ignition process, cant remember which one but its also a sign that your fuel pump is about done so be prepared for that

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I respectively disagree Trevman that the fuel pump has anything to do with an engine cranking by starter motor. Engine would crank if the whole gas tank was out with its fuel pump. Do vehicles have lots of fuel pump and pressure issues - yes and many are GMs. It would take some funky crossed wires somewhere to have fuel pump power keep a "trigger" wire live at the starter IMO,

T

Response From Hammer Time


Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

It may come back. Near sure the spring to return to plain "run" is in the key switch itself. Maybe - lock de-icer would help if available to you but read the packaging that it has some safe lube for an ignition lock as it's mostly used for doors,

T