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1995 Buick Park Avenue Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-311F50C    W0133-1799645  New

ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Incl.Housing,Key & Switch
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
1995 - Buick Park Avenue
1999 Buick Park Avenue Ignition Lock Assembly ACDelco

P311-5A6AA7B    W0133-1799760  New

ACDelco Ignition Lock Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Incl.Housing
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
1999 - Buick Park Avenue

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Ignition Lock Cylinder 1998 Chevy S10

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From dhqman on Ignition Lock Cylinder 1998 Chevy S10

Am changing the ignition lock cylinder and am at the point of pushing through the lock release hole but when I do nothing happens. There is nothing to push against inside except a solid piece of metal. I have tried several times and am pushing quite hard. The cylinder will not release. I am using a small enough awl to get through the hole but to no avail. Help please!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Do you have it in the "start" position when trying to push the pin in?


  1. Remove the upper and lower steering column shrouds. Refer to "Steering Column Trim Cover Replacement".
  2. Turn the ignition lock cylinder to the start position.
  3. Using an awl, insert the tip into the ignition lock cylinder access hole (1).
  4. Push down and hold the ignition lock cylinder retaining pin.
  5. Release the ignition lock cylinder to the run position.
  6. Remove the ignition lock cylinder by pulling the ignition lock cylinder away from the steering column (2).

Response From dhqman

Thank you. That worked perfect. Now I can't seem to get the new one in. I looks like the hole is not lining up with where the locking pin is on the new cylinder. There is only one way to insert the cylinder because of the pin and the slot on the side. I know I am not doing something but I don't know what it is. I know I have to reprogram it when I get it in but need to get past that first. I feel confident that I have the correct cylinder.

Response From Hammer Time

Did you match up the 2 cylinders to make sure they are the same? You realize you have to have the key in it when you insert it?

Response From dhqman

Yes I did have the key in. I purchased the lock at the Auto Zone just up the street. It looks identical when you place it side by side. It will go in to the point of about a 1/4 of an inch left but that is it. How much pressure do you have to put on it or should it just slide in?

Response From Hammer Time

You need to rotate the key at that point. The tab at the end of the lock is not lining up with it's receptacle.

Response From dhqman

Tried to take a picture but can't upload it. Open a photo account but still can't upload. The locks look identical to me. I can see on the inside of the housing the slot that the tab on the bottom left slides into and once you have it in a ways you can move it slightly. That doesn't seem to help. In fact that even moves the cylinder farther away form where the locking pin would be . Very frustrated!!

Response From Hammer Time

We use Photobucket for hosting pictures. That seems to work well. They will supply you with an image link that you can post here and the image will show up here.

Response From dhqman

I don't know if this worked but I will try. If the pictures are there you can see that the cylinders look alike and you can see haw far the cylinder will go in.

Response From Hammer Time

I fixed them to show up here.

All you can do is work the key around until it drops in.

Response From dhqman

Ok, Will keep trying that. Thank you

Response From Hammer Time

That white plastic on the top of the housing in the top picture, is that a contact strip that pulls right out.

Response From dhqman

I'll have to check. After dark here now and truck outside in driveway. Will check that in morning. Again thank you

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quick note and I'm out of this..........

Is that temporary key ring getting in the way of key getting all the way in so this just falls into place while wiggling it around? Might be. Take that off for this step,


Response From dhqman

Was able to get the lock cylinder back into place. Had to realign the inside of the receptacle to receive cylinder.

Response From dhqman

Thank you for your help. That is a key nut it's not in the way. I did take it off but didn't help. I have just about given up and am going to have a locksmith come down. There is only one way to slide this cylinder in and I can't figure out why it won't lock in. Again thank you for your time and effort.

changing ignition lock

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From augie729 on changing ignition lock

On a 2001 Pontiac gran am after replacing the ignition lock does the bcm have to be reprogrammed or just a relearn procedure or both????

Response From Hammer Time

Just the relearn but it may require the 30 minute version of it.

Response From augie729

oh ok I thought the bcm how to be cleared of codes this is why i ask? since the securty light comes on every now and than stays on steady does not blink

Response From Hammer Time

That means you have another problem in the system somewhere that the ignition didn't resolve.

Response From augie729

well I did not replace the ignition lock yet but there is a pass lock sensor on the housing part of the ignition lock alot of times they are either corroded or Just need to be replaced so i figure since I do not have a 5,000 tech 2 I would replace the ignition lock and pass lock sensor and see if that works since its a very common problem and that is why i asked do i need to clear any bcm codes or they clear them selves since i have to do a rearm procedure

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I thought you had already done that. You can just disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or it will eventually clear itself. It won't interfere with the relearn.

Response From augie729

Oh ok whew LOL I never knew the bcm can clear its self with disconnecting the battery

Ignition lock/cylider Issue- or Worse?

Showing 4 out of 8 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From kenstupka on Ignition lock/cylider Issue- or Worse?

1995 Ford F150
5.0 L
160,000 miles

I cannot shut my engine off. It appears that the people that changed my tires might have forced the ignition lock beyond the "Stop" position and now the lock no longer stops the engine. I can start the engine without any issue.

Is this a problem with the ignition lock/cylinder or is this possibly a worse scenario?

Thanks for your help.

Response From Discretesignals

Can you rotate the ignition lock cylinder to the lock position and remove the key?

Response From kenstupka Top Rated Answer

I can remove the key without any problem.

Response From Discretesignals

Ford did have a problem with the linkage in the steering column on those. Down on the steering tube portion of the column is the ignition switch. Disconnect the ignition switch. There is a rod that slides into the switch. Hold the rod and turn the lock cylinder. You'll be able to tell if it is broken.

If it is broken, remove the lock cylinder and inspect it. If the lock cylinder looks good, your going to have to remove the steering column from the truck and take column apart to inspect the linkage. It's not very fun either.

If you do end up pulling the column, replace the shifter tube bushings while your in there.

The part that usually breaks on those is called the upper and lower lock actuator assembly.

Looks something like this that usually breaks:

Response From kenstupka

Many thanks for your reply. It will be several days before I can tackle this.
I might add some info that I forgot to mention that might shed some light on the situation.

For quite some time, when I would put the lock in the off position, I could remove the key and the buzzer would continue. Also, the lock would not "lock" even with the key out. I could literally turn the lock with out the key and start the vehicle.

With this added info, does this suggest a higher probability of what the problem might be?

Response From dr.donut

I got my ranger ignition set at a locksmith, he had to order it but it was alot cheaper than the dealer cost, had no problems with it either

Response From re-tired

You dont have to pull the column to replace the actuator rod . You can remove necessary components in the truck . By all means check to see if rod is moving at the switch as DS is recommending . I did'nt know locksmiths carried ignition key cylinders. Try some wd40 into the key slot and work key in and out , sometimes the pins and the key buzzer switch get gummed up.If rod is broken your prob better off at a local shop , by the trime you rent the tools and factor in the aggravation its not worth it.

Response From Discretesignals

That probably is a separate issue, but you'll know when you pull the lock cylinder and inspect it to be sure it is engaging the gear in the lock cylinder housing.

If you can take the key out and start the truck, the lock cylinder itself is bad, but I think you have two issues.