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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Delphi
    Delphi
  • Forecast
    Forecast
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • Hitachi
    Hitachi
  • Huco
    Huco
  • Standard Ignition
    Standard Ignition

Best Selling Genuine Honda Ignition Control Modules

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Beck Arnley, Delphi, Standard Ignition, Huco, Hitachi, Genuine, Forecast
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Honda Replacement Ignition Control Module Parts

We stock Ignition Control Module parts for most Honda models, including Accord, CRV, CRX, Civic, Civic del Sol, Odyssey, Passport, Prelude.


Beck Arnley
1995 Honda Civic del Sol Ignition Control Module 4 Cyl 1.6L Beck Arnley

P311-25BAA4A    180-0264  New

Qty:
57.84
Beck Arnley Ignition Control Module
  • ELEC IGNITION MODULE
  • ; 3 Mounting Holes To Attach The Heat Sink
  • APPLICATION SPECIFIC FOR THIS VEHICLE
  • Product Attributes:
    • ORDER MULTIPLE: 1
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Honda Civic del Sol Si L 4 Cyl 1.6L 98 1588
Beck Arnley
1995 Honda Civic Ignition Control Module Beck Arnley

P311-25BAA4A    180-0264  New

Qty:
57.84
Beck Arnley Ignition Control Module
  • ELEC IGNITION MODULE
  • APPLICATION SPECIFIC FOR THIS VEHICLE
  • Product Attributes:
    • ORDER MULTIPLE: 1
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Honda Civic
Beck Arnley
2000 Honda Civic Ignition Control Module 4 Cyl 1.6L Beck Arnley

P311-25BAA4A    180-0264  New

Qty:
57.84
Beck Arnley Ignition Control Module
  • ELEC IGNITION MODULE
  • ; TEC ID #TD-80U, TD98U
  • APPLICATION SPECIFIC FOR THIS VEHICLE
  • Product Attributes:
    • ORDER MULTIPLE: 1
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Honda Civic L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1590
Delphi
1995 Honda Passport Ignition Control Module 6 Cyl 3.2L Delphi

P311-47E0226    GN10125  New

8104672020 , CBE104P , TP404 , DR145 , TP404SB , 10499430 , 8-10467-202-0 , 33928 , LX-346 , 10467202 , D1998A , DR424K , 6H1040 , LX346 , 19056677 , LX346T , E254 , 19245557 , LX-346T , CBE104 , DM1928 , 10489422 , 8104894220 , 8-10489-422-0

Qty:
157.35
Delphi Ignition Control Module
  • Ignition Control Module
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Quantity: 3
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 17
  • 100 years of OE experience, supplier to the world's top automakers, OE Heritage and knowledge built into every aftermarket part.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Honda Passport V 6 Cyl 3.2L - 3165
Delphi
1991 Honda Accord Ignition Control Module 4 Cyl 2.2L Delphi

P311-05A3DA2    DS10014  New

E1989A , 222132 , LX-615 , 06302-PT2-000 , 06302PT3000 , CBE550P , 30130P75006 , 63026 , 180-0218 , 30130P54006 , CBE619 , E1922 , ICM615 , JA179 , TP166SB , 6H1001 , H302 , 1800218 , 01604 , TP329 , WA8521 , LX-734T , LX734T , E1922C , LX-734 , E1995A , LX615T , E587 , LX-876 , LX-875 , TP166 , LX876 , CBE550 , ICM734 , 30130-P75-006 , CBE747 , 115070 , 06302PT2000 , 11-5070 , E1938 , LX615 , F1905A , LX734 , 30130-P54-006 , TP222 , WA914W , 8D2 , E5286 , H-302 , TP380 , LX-615T , 06302-PT3-000

Qty:
56.28
Delphi Ignition Control Module
  • Ignition Control Module
  • Product Attributes:
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 4
  • 100 years of OE experience, supplier to the world's top automakers, OE Heritage and knowledge built into every aftermarket part.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Honda Accord LX L 4 Cyl 2.2L - 2156
Delphi
2000 Honda Civic Ignition Control Module 4 Cyl 1.6L Delphi

P311-4EA714B    DS10060  New

LX734T , JP129 , LX-734 , E1923C , LX-734T , 06300-P2E-305 , E1992C , 30130P06006 , CBE619 , E1995A , 06300P2E305 , HM356 , 6H1116 , TP222 , 30130-P06-006 , LX734

Qty:
81.30
Delphi Ignition Control Module
  • Ignition Control Module
  • Product Attributes:
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 4
  • 100 years of OE experience, supplier to the world's top automakers, OE Heritage and knowledge built into every aftermarket part.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Honda Civic L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1590
Standard Ignition
1987 Honda Accord Ignition Control Module Standard Ignition

P311-02C1B5D    LX-515  New

E513 , 3-3034 , 55-1560 , JA115 , 30120-PH4-005 , 22020-15M00 , 8942433440 , 30120PA0661 , 6H1060 , 30120-PA0-661 , 180-0029 , 8-94243-344-0 , 49146 7401 , 2202015M00 , 94243344 , 01545 , E1922 , V40-63-0012 , 12336248 , CBE507 , 491467401 , 21204

Qty:
33.30
Standard Ignition Ignition Control Module
  • Ignition Control Module
  • ; Hitachi Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Connector Gender: Male
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Our control modules feature double wire bonds for better connections, greater dependability and longer life despite being subjected to intense vibration and the tough operating environment. Copper slug heat sinks provide better heat dissipation to prevent heat from damaging the module. Our ignition modules will respond to a weak signal from the crankshaft position sensor and begin energizing the coils immediately for better starts in cold weather. High-temperature polymer housing reducing moisture intrusion and minimizes vibration damage for extended life and improved reliability. Our ignition modules are durability tested for 500 thermal cycles ranging from -40C to +125C. With industry leading expertise in electronic ignition, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Honda Accord
Standard Ignition
1989 Honda Prelude Ignition Control Module 4 Cyl 2.0L Standard Ignition

P311-02C1B5D    LX-515  New

E513 , 3-3034 , 55-1560 , JA115 , 30120-PH4-005 , 22020-15M00 , 8942433440 , 30120PA0661 , 6H1060 , 30120-PA0-661 , 180-0029 , 8-94243-344-0 , 49146 7401 , 2202015M00 , 94243344 , 01545 , E1922 , V40-63-0012 , 12336248 , CBE507 , 491467401 , 21204

Qty:
33.30
Standard Ignition Ignition Control Module
  • Ignition Control Module
  • ; w/o Thermactor Emission Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Connector Gender: Male
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Our control modules feature double wire bonds for better connections, greater dependability and longer life despite being subjected to intense vibration and the tough operating environment. Copper slug heat sinks provide better heat dissipation to prevent heat from damaging the module. Our ignition modules will respond to a weak signal from the crankshaft position sensor and begin energizing the coils immediately for better starts in cold weather. High-temperature polymer housing reducing moisture intrusion and minimizes vibration damage for extended life and improved reliability. Our ignition modules are durability tested for 500 thermal cycles ranging from -40C to +125C. With industry leading expertise in electronic ignition, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Honda Prelude L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1958
Standard Ignition
1980 Honda Prelude Ignition Control Module Standard Ignition

P311-02C1B5D    LX-515  New

E513 , 3-3034 , 55-1560 , JA115 , 30120-PH4-005 , 22020-15M00 , 8942433440 , 30120PA0661 , 6H1060 , 30120-PA0-661 , 180-0029 , 8-94243-344-0 , 49146 7401 , 2202015M00 , 94243344 , 01545 , E1922 , V40-63-0012 , 12336248 , CBE507 , 491467401 , 21204

Qty:
33.30
Standard Ignition Ignition Control Module
  • Ignition Control Module
  • ; with Calif. Emissions Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Connector Gender: Male
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Our control modules feature double wire bonds for better connections, greater dependability and longer life despite being subjected to intense vibration and the tough operating environment. Copper slug heat sinks provide better heat dissipation to prevent heat from damaging the module. Our ignition modules will respond to a weak signal from the crankshaft position sensor and begin energizing the coils immediately for better starts in cold weather. High-temperature polymer housing reducing moisture intrusion and minimizes vibration damage for extended life and improved reliability. Our ignition modules are durability tested for 500 thermal cycles ranging from -40C to +125C. With industry leading expertise in electronic ignition, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
1980 - Honda Prelude Automatic
Standard Ignition
1981 Honda Prelude Ignition Control Module Standard Ignition

P311-02C1B5D    LX-515  New

E513 , 3-3034 , 55-1560 , JA115 , 30120-PH4-005 , 22020-15M00 , 8942433440 , 30120PA0661 , 6H1060 , 30120-PA0-661 , 180-0029 , 8-94243-344-0 , 49146 7401 , 2202015M00 , 94243344 , 01545 , E1922 , V40-63-0012 , 12336248 , CBE507 , 491467401 , 21204

Qty:
33.30
Standard Ignition Ignition Control Module
  • Ignition Control Module
  • ; with U.S. Emissions Hitachi Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Connector Gender: Male
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Our control modules feature double wire bonds for better connections, greater dependability and longer life despite being subjected to intense vibration and the tough operating environment. Copper slug heat sinks provide better heat dissipation to prevent heat from damaging the module. Our ignition modules will respond to a weak signal from the crankshaft position sensor and begin energizing the coils immediately for better starts in cold weather. High-temperature polymer housing reducing moisture intrusion and minimizes vibration damage for extended life and improved reliability. Our ignition modules are durability tested for 500 thermal cycles ranging from -40C to +125C. With industry leading expertise in electronic ignition, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1981 - Honda Prelude
Standard Ignition
1998 Honda Accord Ignition Control Module 6 Cyl 3.0L Standard Ignition

P311-442DC67    LX-744  New

E5098 , 88921569 , JA1114 , 30120-P8A-A01 , 30120P8AA01 , 30120-PBA-A01 , CBE626 , 30120PBAA01 , 55-1509 , E1986A , 6H1009

Qty:
122.76
Standard Ignition Ignition Control Module
  • Ignition Control Module
  • ; Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Method: Bolt On
    • Coil Included: No
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Quantity: 1
    • Connector Shape: Rectangular
    • Grease Pack: No
    • Hardware Included: No
    • Instructions Included: No
    • Mounting Bracket(s) Included: No
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Our control modules feature double wire bonds for better connections, greater dependability and longer life despite being subjected to intense vibration and the tough operating environment. Copper slug heat sinks provide better heat dissipation to prevent heat from damaging the module. Our ignition modules will respond to a weak signal from the crankshaft position sensor and begin energizing the coils immediately for better starts in cold weather. High-temperature polymer housing reducing moisture intrusion and minimizes vibration damage for extended life and improved reliability. Our ignition modules are durability tested for 500 thermal cycles ranging from -40C to +125C. With industry leading expertise in electronic ignition, when original equipment fails our products are designed to fix the inherent failure issues. As a global manufacturer of original equipment ignition products, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Honda Accord V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2997
Huco
2001 Honda Accord Ignition Control Module Huco

P311-04A58D8    W0133-1836426  New

Qty:
54.41
Huco Ignition Control Module
Brand: Huco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2001 - Honda Accord F23A5
Hitachi
1998 Honda Accord Ignition Control Module Hitachi

P311-43DB0A5    W0133-1836426  New

Qty:
203.35
Hitachi Ignition Control Module
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
1998 - Honda Accord F23A5
Huco
1993 Honda Civic Ignition Control Module Huco

P311-0EE0968    W0133-1612107  New

Qty:
55.55
Huco Ignition Control Module
Brand: Huco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Honda Civic
Genuine
1993 Honda Civic Ignition Control Module Genuine

P311-0A61283    W0133-1612107  New

Qty:
448.61
Genuine Ignition Control Module
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Honda Civic
Genuine
1995 Honda Odyssey Ignition Control Module Genuine

P311-27F6729    W0133-1603187  New

Qty:
407.43
Genuine Ignition Control Module
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Honda Odyssey
Forecast
2000 Honda Accord Ignition Control Module Forecast

P311-0DE23A8    W0133-1618141  New

Qty:
160.45
Forecast Ignition Control Module
Brand: Forecast
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2000 - Honda Accord F23A1
Genuine
1999 Honda Accord Ignition Control Module 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine

P311-2DD8149    W0133-1708304  New

Qty:
436.42
Genuine Ignition Control Module
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Honda Accord V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2997
Delphi
1998 Honda CR-V Ignition Control Module Delphi

P311-229CB75    W0133-1602146  New

Qty:
109.63
Delphi Ignition Control Module
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Honda CR-V
Hitachi
1989 Honda Civic Ignition Control Module Hitachi

P311-069FA5F    W0133-1624719  New

Qty:
110.81
Hitachi Ignition Control Module
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • The original igniter that was installed at the factory is no longer available. When installing a replacement igniter, either heat sink #30121-PT2-006 (Accord & Prelude models) or #30121-PM5-A02 (Civic and Integra models) may also be required for proper fitment (these heat sinks are serviced separately). If installing the Hitachi igniter, note that 5mm longer retaining screws may be required and are also serviced separately.
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Honda Civic

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

93 honda accord question

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From jenhudnall on 93 honda accord question

I have a 93 accord that i bought 4 years ago and as far as i know it was well maintained but i've heard horrer stories of the timing belt breaking and i don't know if mine has ever been replaced my car has 230.000 miles on it what should i do or are there symptoms to watch out for?

jen

Response From Tom Greenleaf

HI - RUN DON'T WALK AND JUST REPLACE IT OR YOU MAY BE A PEDESTRIAN SOON!! If you've owned it four years and don't know you are probably on borrowed time! It's a couple hundred buck job but can save your whole engine from complete disaster! Not all engines can survive a broken belt. I mean it! Game over! No warning! Tom

Response From jenhudnall Top Rated Answer

Alright I'm on it then...Not too long ago my car broke down and I thought it might have been the timing belt but was lucky and it was a bad ignition control module so my engine was'nt screwed like i thought could've happened if it was the timing belt so I'm off to get a new one put in.

thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

NOT ALL BUT SOME CARS WILL CRASH THE VALVES INTO THE PISTONS IF A TIMING BELT BREAKS OR EVEN SLIPS ENOUGH. THE BENT VALVES AND POSSIBLE HOLES IN THE PISTONS RENDER THAT ENGINE JUNK. IF YOU ARE INTO BOATING JUST GET A GOOD CHAIN AND USE IT FOR A MOORING! IT'S THAT SERIOUS FOLKS OVER A $30 BELT AND SOME REAL TALENT TO INSTALL.

THERE IS NO "GET OUT OF JAIL FREE" CARD FOR THIS - IT'S ''GAME OVER" !! TAKE HEED,

1987 monte carlo ss

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From ccase98375 on 1987 monte carlo ss

Not sure if someone can help me. I have a 1987 Monte carlo ss. We are having a very weird problem with it. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't. No spark. Turn the key and nothing. Battery is not dead, wont turn over even if you try to jump it and lights and such work. Then if you let it sit for awhile(sometimes hours sometimes over night) go out it fires right up. Thought maybe neutral safety but mechanic says no. Thought maybe voltage reg. nope not it either. So we are stumped. Any ideas? Thanks so much

Response From DanD

Can you clarify whether the engine has no spark or is the engine not cranking?
No spark. Turn the key and nothing.

Response From ccase98375

Dan,
It does nothing..... You turn the key and it is like it is completly dead.. No spark no crank nothing.... But the battery is good cause I have full power lights and such and jumping does no good...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm curious how you know there's no spark if the engine does't crank? From what I've seen so far I suspect the electrical connections at the starter - even the little one to the solonoid, and the battery, and the ground that should go right to the engine block. Could just be a starter motor? Suggest that the connections be ruled out anyway.

If you really have no spark I would think this car would just quit while driving too.

Intermittent problems are a pest because you are not sure whether you fixed it or it's back to running. Only time will tell if it doesn't happen again. Good luck and please let us all know when you find the answer,

Response From ccase98375

Ruled out starter and connections already by replacing all. Did have a problem with it dying while driving and thats what sparked the modulator and starter replacement. The weird thing about all this is that you can start it drive it and then park it for any amount of time come back out and it wont start. Then let it sit for awhile or over night come out and it fires right up. And it doesn't happen all the time. It is very spuratic.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I feel bad for you - we are trying but this one is tough.

To refresh: This is a problem where both starter and spark quit - new starter and module, and has quit while running. Left alone a while it behaves again???? Doesn't do this all the time??

Here's a few shots in the dark............

1. An old anti-theft system not working properly or not carefully removed.

2. Ignition switch? It's the only common item to both that I know of for 1987.

3. There is a wiring block - I think driver's side where all the wires come into interior of car. If I recall they are all spade type connections and it will just pull off after a fastener is removed. Not exact but had that problem just once with a GM Van about your year. I was lucky with that one as it stayed broken down and could find a fault with a silly test light.

Keep at it,

Response From jenhudnall Top Rated Answer

my honda had the same problem of not starting sometime after it sat for a sec or so then it completly quit one day and wouldn't start I took it to the shop and it was a bad ignition control module.


just a thought.

96 Integra - Runs, Dies, then won't start for awhile

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From floatinglighthouse on 96 Integra - Runs, Dies, then won't start for awhile

I don't know much about cars, so excuse my idiocy.

I have a '96 Acura Integra, with a 1.8 liter Honda engine. I believe the Honda engine has around 120,000 miles, the car itself is now just shy of 200,000 miles.

The car was running fine for about 15 minutes or so when it just shut off. It would not restart and the battery light would show (which is odd because I replaced the battery about a year ago). It would crank, but never start. 30 minutes later, it restarted with no problems. It ran for about another 15 minutes, then died the same way -- just shut off, but all electrical components still worked fine. Would not restart. I left it overnight, then it started the next morning with no problems.

Basically, I'm trying to get a handle on what could be wrong and how much it will cost to fix. Could it be the fuel pump? the distributor? the alternator?

Please note, I'm not very good with cars and may not be able to answer more specific diagnostic questions. Just looking for a general idea.

Thanks for any help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi,

First - don't worry about the battery light if on when engine isn't running as the alternator isn't turning so it would be on. Alone - that means nothing right now.

Seems like this will dependably fail on you in about 15 min which is kind of good as you will need to check some items with it not running - testing things with it running properly aren't likely to show the failure.

There could be info stored and retrievable in a code which can be had at major parts outlets for free - get a detail on that if possible and report it back here.

Try to equip yourself to be able to check spark and fuel pressure when it doen't run. A simple 12v test light will be helpful too or a multimeter even better.

If you just get a can of starting fluid and keep on hand AND be ready and know how to just prime the throttle body with it when it's down could prove that the problem is fuel related - not spark and help with the next step.

There's no way to know what is wrong or what it might cost right now. Let us know if there are any different extremes like extra cold, wet or whatever that might play a part in this,

T

Response From floatinglighthouse

I had a friend take a look at it. It seems there's no spark once the engine gets hot. Does the entire distributor need to be replaced? Is there a coil that's failing, perhaps?

The computer didn't report any failures, both when the car would run, and after it died.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Don't guess at whether it has spark or not - test it AND test for lack of fuel when it doesn't run. It could lack both. Just what did the computer code reading say? This car doesn't call you or send an email (some do now!) you actually have to get a reading,

T

Response From floatinglighthouse Top Rated Answer

It's fixed. Thank you for your help.

It wasn't the fuel, and it really wasn't sparking. We tested the ignition coil, and it was fine. We then tested the ignition control module, and it wasn't fine. We replaced it. It's running tip-top now.

What I meant by "computer" was we plugged in whatever gizmo it is that gets the readings, and it said that it detected no failures. Guess it was wrong, because the ICM was failing.

Thanks again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Great! Glad to hear it. Shows that puter aren't always perfect. I was worried that you were trying some paperclip trick for readings which I wouldn't try on that car,

T

'97 Pontiac Bonneville won't start

Showing 2 out of 18 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From my13personalities on '97 Pontiac Bonneville won't start

Ok, here's the deal...Last night, I ran out of gas (happens often), so after I put enough in from my emergency gas tank to get me 50 yards to the gas pump (no I couldn't push it, I'm a female, it's a Bonneville...much easier to push my Honda), I put $20 in it, put air in my very low back tire, and then noticed I had no heat. Anti-freeze my first thought, so first thing this morning I filled it up to the "hot" line with 50/50..cheap Advanced brand. 3 hours later, I check it, that tank is empty. First question. Does it go somewhere else or should it remain at the full line always?

So, I filled it up again. Drove it two blocks to daycare, and before I even got near my starting point the engine light (that's always on, but wasn't on way to daycare), starts blinking. I go back home, look under the hood. Still full. But I notice when I start it up that the engine is smoking a little. I figure, must be because there's a little more in there that should be, so it's just excess burn off.

Anyway, I also noticed, when I try to see where the burning oil is coming from, that there are 2 wires, that look like they should be connected to something, just hanging. I turn off the car, try to restart it, and nothing. I hadn't even touched anything yet. Why did this happen? I found where the one was supposed to go, it was rectangular, with little fastening clips on either side. Seems it just falling off would be unlikely. The other, a round tip with 3 little holes inside that, whatever it hooks to, would have prongs to go inside. I can't find that "whatever." The car still won't do anything. It just clicks when I turn the key, but all of the lights and radio work fine.

Help please! I'm pretty capable, and if it's an easy job, with easy to reach places, I can fix it myself. Between this car and my other I just put over $600 in them less than 2 months ago. I don't want to put much more.

The other is a '94 Honda Civic that just needs a catalytic converter. Which car should I fix first/ Could I replace the catalytic converter on my own easily with minimal automotive skills?

If you read all of that thanks! Sorry it was so long, but I figure the more details, the easier to figure out the problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Are you serious? Routinely running out of gas! That kills fuel pumps which will make $600 bucks look cheap.

Drive the Honda as I think the other needs way too much money right now by reading your post.

BTW converts unless rust is an issue are killed by an engine not running properly usually,

T

Response From my13personalities

So are you saying the fuel pump is my problem?

Response From Hammer Time

No, he didn't say you need a fuel pump. He was pointing out that your total lack of care and maintenance for your car will cost you big in the end. You just can't treat a car like that if you expect to drive it long.

At this point you need to have a shop check it out thoroughly including pressure testing the cooling system. You may have already done serious damage to it.

Response From my13personalities

Oh okay. I was under the assumption that this was a help forum...not a lecture forum. And if you read my post thoroughly, you'd know that it has been maintenanced..."less than two months ago."

Response From Hammer Time

Get serious................
You frequently ran it out of gas
The engine light is on and you ignore it
You run it out of coolant and continue to drive it to your destination

You abuse the vehicle up one side and down the other and now you want some forum to fix it all like it was nothing. You deserve a lecture.

Response From my13personalities

Lol. Are you a member of PETA (people for the ethical treatment of automobiles)? Well thanks for the lecture. That helps me a great deal to figure out why my car won't start. Anything else? I have been neglecting my laundry for a few days. Want to complain about that too? I drove my car 2 blocks with no antifreeze because I was closer to home than anywhere I could get any, it was 8:30 pm and I have 3 kids that I had to bath for bed. So excuse me for putting my children before a machine Mr. self righteous!

Response From Discretesignals

Ok you made a little boo boo. Time to move on. Now, lets figure out the problem.

Do you have
Spark
Fuel pressure
Injector activity?


Coolant leak
Where is the coolant going or leaking from?

Response From my13personalities

Okay MC Hammer, you're failing to understand that I already know what you're telling me, so your lecture is pointless. It's a backup car that once it costs more than I'm willing to spend will be meeting it's fate at the junkyard.

There's nothing, just a click when I turn the key. I have checked the ground and haven't seen signs of a leak. I also couldn't open the other cap to see if there was anything inside. And the oil was a little over the full line, the engine was smoking a little just before I turned it off for the last time. But what confuses me the most is the two wires that weren't connected to anything. They are coming from the engine, like I said I found where the one should go, but not the other. Seconds before, the car turned over just fine, then the next...nothing.

Response From Discretesignals

Can you take a picture of the two wires and send us the link or post the pic in here?

You coolant tank may be full, but your radiator could be empty. You really need to get the cap off and not with a hammer.

Response From my13personalities

I knew I should have taken the pic. I'll try now, but it's dark out. I may have to do that tomorrow. And I've gotten that cap off before when I was checking my fluids (omg..yes, I actually do do maintenance sometimes!) lol. I don't know if this helps, but about a week ago, I plugged my phone charger into the lighter and it wasn't working. I changed the fuse and it immediately blew. Three fuses later I gave up. Now that I'm at this point, I'm going to check the main fuses under the hood tomorrow when it's light again. But idk if that may have been the first sign of a bigger problem.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The cigar light fuse popping shouldn't cause a no start. Check your lighter sockets for pennies or other metallic objects your kids may have dropping in there.

The lighter is the least of your worries. Pull all the spark plugs out and disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition control module. The module is underneath the three ignition coils. Crank the engine and see if any coolant flies out of the spark plug holes.

Response From Discretesignals

Just to let you know Gen 2 3.8L are bad about the coolant passages around the EGR pipe of the plastic upper intake disentigrating. When this happens the cylinders fill up with coolant causing a no start or a start that breaks off starter motor noses and bends connecting rods.

Response From Hammer Time

You can justify it any way you want. The bottom line is YOU are the reason your car has problems and I can't fix that.

If you think a new engine is cheaper and less convenient than a tow truck then just keep driving it.

Response From Discretesignals

Easy HT, we really don't know what the other 11 personalities are like..

Some of the advice may be useful. You just have to get through the mine field.

Response From Discretesignals

Which personality is this? LOL


The Bonny has a resevior tank which you had filled up, but found empty. There is also a radiator cap. When the engine is cold remove the radiator cap from the radiator and look to see how much coolant is in there. You might have a coolant leak which you will have to figure out.

To figure out the no start, you need to see if you have 3 things. 1- fuel pressure 2- spark 3- injector activity while cranking the engine.

You need a spark tester to see if you have a strong blue spark. You need a fuel pressure test gauge to see if you have fuel pressure when cranking the engine. You need an injector noid light to check for injector pulse while cranking the engine. Once you figure out what is missing, you can figure out why what ever is missing is missing.

Response From my13personalities

Well, I was the nice one, until smart ass smarty pants replied! now I'm the bitchy one! lol Thanks though everyone for your help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry - look back as I edited my own post. Fuel pump alone if that's it isn't the only problem. Probably need a head gasket and tons more on that car,

T