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Bosch
2017 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 3.6L Bosch - Ignition Coil (New)

P311-38E0E4F    0221504032  New

7B0905715A , 5149168AI , 7B0905715C

Qty:
$34.40
Bosch Ignition Coil
  • Bosch Ignition Coil
  • One per cylinder
  • Ignition Coil (New)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Coil Type: Pencil Coil
  • Benefits of Bosch original equipment quality ignitions coils include the right ignition voltage, long lasting spark, better engine running conditions, lower fuel consumption, and reduced exhaust emissions.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Ram 1500 V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Mopar
2012 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil Mopar

P311-497B64D    5149049AB  New

Qty:
$54.05
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Aspiration Fuel Type Engine VIN Cylinder Head Type Fuel Delivery Type Engine Version
2012 - Ram 1500 ST - Naturally Aspirated FLEX P SOHC FI Magnum
NGK
2015 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 5.7L NGK - NGK COP Ignition Coil

P311-0DD6908    48716  New

48716 , 36-8121 , UF504 , 2505-302202 , GN10352 , IC584 , E1004

Qty:
$33.39
  • Dual Plug; 1 Coil Fires 2 Plugs (8 Req'd)
  • NGK COP Ignition Coil
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Coil Type: Cop (coil On Plug)
    • Ignition Type: Distributorless
  • NGK ignition coils are manufactured to meet or exceed OE standards for the highest durability and operational performance, so they can be installed with confidence. NGK and their family of automotive products have over 80 year’s experience and are driven by extreme dedication to innovation, performance and quality. With state-of-the-art manufacturing, inventory and distribution facilities in North America and globally, NGK is dedicated to providing customers with world-class products and services. Developed and rigorously tested in our ISO 17025 accredited test lab under the most extreme conditions, NGK’s coil designs will outperform all others – far beyond operational environments a vehicle would actually experience. NGK ignition coils have vast coverage including late-model domestic and import vehicles. NGK’s OE legacy, unsurpassed quality and leading vehicles in operation coverage reinforces NGK as The Ignition Specialist™.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Ram 1500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
NGK
2013 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 4.7L NGK - NGK COP (Waste Spark) Ignition Coil

P311-1504432    48937  New

48937 , IC691 , UF601 , 2505-484784 , 36-8189 , E1101 , GN10458

Qty:
$24.77
  • Dual Plug Waste Spark System; 8 Coils Req'd. Includes mounting screw
  • NGK COP (Waste Spark) Ignition Coil
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Coil Type: Cop (waste Spark)
    • Ignition Type: Distributorless
  • NGK ignition coils are manufactured to meet or exceed OE standards for the highest durability and operational performance, so they can be installed with confidence. NGK and their family of automotive products have over 80 year’s experience and are driven by extreme dedication to innovation, performance and quality. With state-of-the-art manufacturing, inventory and distribution facilities in North America and globally, NGK is dedicated to providing customers with world-class products and services. Developed and rigorously tested in our ISO 17025 accredited test lab under the most extreme conditions, NGK’s coil designs will outperform all others – far beyond operational environments a vehicle would actually experience. NGK ignition coils have vast coverage including late-model domestic and import vehicles. NGK’s OE legacy, unsurpassed quality and leading vehicles in operation coverage reinforces NGK as The Ignition Specialist™.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: NGK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram 1500 V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Standard Ignition
2013 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 5.7L Standard Ignition

P311-148B115    UF-504  New

E1004 , U5121 , 52-1828 , 56029129AA , 56029129AB , C-693 , GN10352 , 68238603AA , 5602129AA , 5602 9129AF , 7B1 , C1526 , 5C1569 , 6806 0346AA , 921-2093

Qty:
$29.51
Standard Ignition Ignition Coil
  • Coil on Plug Coil
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Coil Type: Electronic
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Shape: Rectangular
    • Mounting Location: Valve Cover
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Engineered and tested to match or exceed OE for spark energy output, impedance, and durability. Tested at extreme engine performance condition at 7200 RPM. Advanced thermoplastic coil connector ensures proper connection and resists fractures caused by heat and thermal cycling. High-temp boot prevents high-voltage leaks, while stainless-steel spring provides proper connection with spark plug. High-impact housing material ensures superior bond to epoxy for longer life in all operating conditions. Internal, neodymium permanent magnet core surrounded by grain-oriented, magnetic-laminated steel maximizes high-voltage output at all speeds. Primary (22 gauge) and Secondary (44 gauge) copper wire ensure high-voltage availability for peak performance while reinforced bobbins prevent voltage flashover for extended service life. Copper wires using higher insulation grade ensure heat resistance and prevent high voltage breakdown.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram 1500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Standard Ignition
2013 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 4.7L Standard Ignition

P311-17B8865    UF-601  New

GN10458 , C-755 , 5149 049AB , U4042 , C1649 , 52-2061 , 5C1706 , E1101

Qty:
$24.77
Standard Ignition Ignition Coil
  • Coil on Plug Coil
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Mounting Location: Direct Ignition
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • 100% pure copper windings in primary and secondary bobbins improve durability and provide higher resistance to internal shorts and dielectric breakdown. Thermoplastic housing withstands heat stress for enhanced durability. Internal core made from grain oriented electrical steel limits loss factor within magnetic circuit to reduce heat and ensure coil endurance. Neodymium magnet produces max high voltage output at all speeds. Stainless steel spring resists corrosion. Tin-plated brass terminals improve electrical contact and protect against corrosion. High-dielectric epoxy injected into case and pulled into vacuum to eliminate air pockets and prevent moisture intrusion or thermal breakdown. Silicone rubber boot withstands extreme heat to ensure superior insulation.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram 1500 V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Standard Ignition
2012 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 3.7L Standard Ignition

P311-4531046    UF-640  New

178-8524 , C1652 , 52-2064 , U4043 , C-754 , GN10457 , 5149 199AA , 5C1709 , E1140

Qty:
$38.31
Standard Ignition Ignition Coil
  • Coil on Plug Coil
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Coil Type: Electronic
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Shape: Rectangular
    • Connector Type: Plug In
    • Mounting Location: Engine Head
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Engineered and tested to match or exceed OE for spark energy output, impedance, and durability. Tested at extreme engine performance condition at 7200 RPM. Advanced thermoplastic coil connector ensures proper connection and resists fractures caused by heat and thermal cycling. High-temp boot prevents high-voltage leaks, while stainless-steel spring provides proper connection with spark plug. High-impact housing material ensures superior bond to epoxy for longer life in all operating conditions. Internal, neodymium permanent magnet core surrounded by grain-oriented, magnetic-laminated steel maximizes high-voltage output at all speeds. Primary (24 gauge) and Secondary (46 gauge) copper wire ensure high-voltage availability for peak performance while reinforced bobbins prevent voltage flashover for extended service life. Copper wires using higher insulation grade ensure heat resistance and prevent high voltage breakdown.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 3
    • Most jobs typically require 3 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 1500 V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Walker
2015 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 5.7L Walker

P311-37EF76C    921-2093  New

Qty:
$16.83
Walker Ignition Coil
  • Walker Premium 100% OEM Quality Ignition Coil
  • Walker Ignition Coils are manufactured to meet or exceed OEM Quality.
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Ram 1500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Walker
2013 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil Walker

P311-4736182    921-2112  New

Qty:
$25.22
Walker Ignition Coil
  • Walker Premium 100% OEM Quality Ignition Coil
  • Walker Ignition Coils are manufactured to meet or exceed OEM Quality.
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Ram 1500
Walker
2012 Ram 1500 Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 3.7L Walker

P311-099EFC7    921-2133  New

Qty:
$35.34
Walker Ignition Coil
  • Walker Premium 100% OEM Quality Ignition Coil
  • Walker Ignition Coils are manufactured to meet or exceed OEM Quality.
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 1500 V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -

Latest Ram 1500 Repair and Ignition Coil Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 dodge ram 1500 2wd 5.9 liter

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From marla36 on 1997 dodge ram 1500 2wd 5.9 liter

my 97 dodge ram wont start is turning over but not firing. i drove it one day no problems wasnt running rough or anything like that next day go to start my truck no fire.
i changed the spark plug rotor button distributor cap wires,crank sensor ignition coil pickup coil. and had the time chain checked and after all of that it still wont start. any advice

Response From Mr.scotty

So it is getting spark at the spark plugs rite?
Your missing one of the other things hammer time posted.

Response From Hammer Time

No, he never said that.

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

Ok.., That's what i wanted to know cause he didn't say.

Response From Hammer Time


All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From marla36

is it something i can do myself conducting all the tests #1 in ur posts have been done
? is there a manual way of getting the error codes using the ignition

98 Ram No Power to Coil

Showing 2 out of 38 Posts | Show 36 Hidden Posts
Question From crewf16 on 98 Ram No Power to Coil

I have a 98 Ram 1500 Sport 318 with 185,000 Miles. It has a distributor ignition and has not been tuned up for quite a while. For the past couple of days it would not come off of high idle. My wife took it to the store and she said that it just shut down and would not restart. She also said it was hissing. There was no power at the coil so I changed it. No help. Then I checked the wires going into the coil (key on and cranking) no power here. I also checked to be sure the cam was turning and it is. I also checked the fuses and ignition relays in the box.
Please Help.
Thanks,
Ron

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.


Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From crewf16

As you can see by my post there is no power at the coil. Maybe I did not make myself clear enough. There is no power at the positive side going in and nothing coming out to the distributor. No power to the ignition. I was wondering if the Cam Position pickup in the Distributor could be a contributing cause?
Thanks for any help.
Ron

Response From Hammer Time

If you want some help, then you are going to have to follow our lead. I didn't miss anything. There isn't supposed to be power there when the key is left on.

Response From crewf16

If you want some help, then you are going to have to follow our lead. I didn't miss anything. There isn't supposed to be power there when the key is left on.
Hammertime: According to number one in your guide. I have checked the plug wires, Nothing I do not have fire at the coil, and I do not have power at the positive side of the coil with the key on. This is a throttle body and I do have fuel.
Thanks for any help.
Ron

Response From Hammer Time

OK, never mind. Do it your way. What do we know............................

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ron - Won't cost a thing to try for a '98, dist., "hall effect CMP" enough miles, with no pulse for spark. Take the dist. cap off and look. Could be dirty in there. Just blow it out carefully with compressed air and see if you regain spark. If not it's inconclusive. If it works find the source of excessive dirt which may not be normal. Just a cheap try to see if that simple,

T

Response From Hammer Time

We don't know this car has no spark. We don't know if it has injector pulse either. Hell, we don't even know if it has fuel pressure. The "know it all" hasn't even tested for spark. He doesn't realize that the coil only powers for 2 seconds but he knows better so good luck to him.

Response From crewf16


We don't know this car has no spark. We don't know if it has injector pulse either. Hell, we don't even know if it has fuel pressure. The "know it all" hasn't even tested for spark. He doesn't realize that the coil only powers for 2 seconds but he knows better so good luck to him.


Hammertime: How many vehicles do you know of that have Throttle Body Carb and Injectors?
I have spent more time under the hood than you have at school.

Response From Hammer Time

I have spent more time under the hood than you have at school.

LOL, you're just an idiot. This is not a TBI engine, it's ported injection. The ASD relay powers for 2 seconds and resumes when the PCM picks up reference signal but since you have more years under the hood than me, which by the way is a real joke, you would already know how this system works. Apparently you don't.

If you come back with one more remark about me, you won't be here to make another.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ron - Site is not a boxing match so let's let that go. The trouble is this is still and about all are an "internal combustion engine" that uses the power of fuel to turn a motor to do whatever you want it to do........ run a generator, water pump, crane mow your lawn or whatever. That is where the common ground ends.

This means with computer controls it is able to deliver exact amounts of fuel and spark on exact time via assorted sensors. By nature of an electric fuel pump some failsafes have to be used or vehicles would just dump out a tankful all over hot engines in collisions or any failures as a default.

Again - see at a spark plug if there's spark and for now forget how it got there. If spark you would next see if it lacked fuel delivery. That you could just spray some carb cleaner, starting fluid into throttle body and if it reacted like it would run the problem is fuel. Several reasons for either or both to cut out possible then you need to be able to diagnose what which will require more equipment and tools than you probably have to isolate it to which one if just one thing. The stopper is some of that equipment is so expensive for a one time use it wouldn't be worth it if basic tests have at least narrowed it down.

Get it diagnosed and decide if you want to take it on or not. It's that or too common people just begin throwing everything in sight out with hopes of stumbling onto the reason which you may not find that way anyway and spend a fortune on things you didn't need.

Your experience helps so now let that guide you to needing some more help when basics don't check out - none of which are ruled out yet with this,

T

Response From crewf16

Tom: Ifyou are still there, I swapped out all of the parts, checked for fuel pressure at the valve stem and there is plenty (I do not have a gauge), and tried to start with starting fluid to no avail.
Thanks for any help.
Ron

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Long read already so sorry if I missed something. The starting fluid test is pretty good even if you were out of fuel it should react if it had spark on time with adequate compression.

There are so many things that can cause no spark this is already a parts toss vs getting a code reading again if need be which just might show why spark is unavailable.

There's a pick up coil under distributor cap. It's an old Mopar concept of magnetically sensing the distributor shaft turning and can then send that signal on to an ICM to allow the show to go on and along with other assorted maybe items will allow it to spark.

This is something printed about those and the effect.........

  • Pick-up coil generates a voltage that is sent to the ICM (Ignition Control Module) for proper ignition firing
  • When not replaced, vehicle may experience no start, hard start, intermittent engine shut down, misfire, engine cut out, excessive fuel consumption, CEL illumination and/or failed emission test
  • Designed to meet or exceed OE specifications in form, fit and function
  • Global coverage for import and/or domestic applications


  • ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    Quite apparently a failed one would set a code. I have no clue how to test one of these. Just two wires sensing a wheel with 8 metal cut outs that pass thru a magnetic non touching pair of sensing things that know distributor is turning and when to send signal for a spark called the "Hall Effect" for this.

    If the dang distributor shaft isn't spinning for any reason you wouldn't get any spark if all else was well. At some point of tossing parts as a method you end up not trusting that new ones were any good so lack of diagnostics plain costs too much unless unbelievable lucky.

    Vehicles are plain made not to run if they sense a failure of certain things. I don't know if this engine will shut down spark and or fuel delivery depending on what. Some will mess up with a silly oil pressure switch but don't think this one. Is there a reset somewhere that I don't know of? Maybe.

    It's costing you too much money and time IMO. Some items replaced are OK maintenance if they don't work. Most are just a waste.

    It cost a shop and tech(s) unreal money to have the experience and equipment never mind the place to diagnose out problems quickly and even then some take a while.

    If you don't even want to own a fuel pressure tester you wouldn't like the cost of all the other things needed. At some point the most cost effective thing is to pay for the diagnosis and decide from that if you want to do the fix or let it get done for you.

    So what would you like to do?

    T

    Response From Hammer Time

    This truck doesn't have a pick up coil, nor does it have an ignition control module. Diagnosing this is futile since he refuses to do the required testing.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    They do show this stuff at two different parts outlets for this truck? Are they all wrong? Might be.

    This one say the whole dist includes these..........

    Attributes: # Distributor Pick-ups : Hall Effects Sensor Vacuum Advance Type Used : None Features and Benefits:All Electronic Module Components Are 100% Computer Tested To Ensure Full Functionality.
    Automated Test Equipment Verifies Signal Strength, Correct Polarity Of Wire Harness, Air Gap, Crank Reluctor Tooth Size, As Well As Ignition Coil & Pickup Performance
    Precise Machining Tolerances Prevent Oil Leakage, Poor Timing, Setting Of The Check Engine Light, & Premature Failure. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ One say the signal does go thru PCM. Thread is going nowhere in a hurry, T

    Response From crewf16

    Tom: Unfortunately I think he is correct. I did see this elsewhere. But I also saw that if the cam sensor was bad it could kill the ignition. So it still comes down to swapping parts or towing it in to have it diagnosed.
    Thanks,
    Ron

    Response From Hammer Time

    No, it doesn't. If you weren't so stubborn and listened to people that do this for a living, we would have homed in on what area has the problem but you want to do it your way. Good luck with that.

    Response From crewf16


    No, it doesn't. If you weren't so stubborn and listened to people that do this for a living, we would have homed in on what area has the problem but you want to do it your way. Good luck with that.


    I do not have a Noid, I do not have a fuel pressure gauge and I do not understand your hatred.
    Thanks,
    Ron

    Response From Hammer Time

    Hatred? You gotta be kidding. We donate our time here to help people but I have no patience at all for the know it alls that come in here asking for help but will not listen. It quite enough work to walk a novice through troubleshooting but when they want to argue about every step and tell us how something isn't necessary because they already know what the issue is, they just aren't worth the bother.

    Fix your own damn car. There are other people that need help and are willing to listen.


    OH, and by the way, a noid light costs about $6. Let's see how much you throw away in wasted parts.

    Response From crewf16


    Hatred? You gotta be kidding. We donate our time here to help people but I have no patience at all for the know it alls that come in here asking for help but will not listen. It quite enough work to walk a novice through troubleshooting but when they want to argue about every step and tell us how something isn't necessary because they already know what the issue is, they just aren't worth the bother.

    Fix your own damn car. There are other people that need help and are willing to listen.


    OH, and by the way, a noid light costs about $6. Let's see how much you throw away in wasted parts.


    I don't get you man. I try to make nice with you and you edit it out. Why?
    Ron

    Response From Hammer Time

    I didn't edit anything out. It's all still here.

    Response From crewf16

    I didn't edit anything out. It's all still here.
    My bad. I saw the edit at the bottom and had no idea it went back so far. I will try to get the equipment and see what happens.
    Thanks,
    Ron

    Response From Sidom

    In addition to the tests your are going run if you have a way to get the codes pulled as well, that would be helpful...

    I'll make one suggestion that we normally don't do, but since we are starting at square one with the vehicle, it might be better if you copy & paste your 1st post and start a new tread and then add any additional test info to that 1st post.
    This one has gone 2 pages already and we really haven't got anywhere yet.

    The codes being a good point.....i don't know if they've been pulled & posted already but I'm sure not going to weed thru this whole tread looking for them....

    Response From Hammer Time

    No, I already locked his other post. I haven't seen any test results yet and one thread of nonsense is enough.

    Response From nickwarner

    Fuel pressure gauge and a noid light are cheaper than unneeded parts. Way cheaper than a tow. Way cheaper than a diagnostic fee. You can throw parts at it and maybe get lucky and fix it. Maybe not. Once you install a new sensor or any other electrical part its non-returnable, so you're stuck with it. Your choice.

    Response From way2old

    I get the feeling that this site is going away from what it was intended for. The site is to help people no matter what their skill level or knowledge. Everyone cant be a World Class Tech. Sometimes we need to swallow pride and just help people. We all came here by our own accord. We need to understand that. The posters are not our employees or our bosses. It seems to be getting worse and worse in this department. There is no need to respond to this post. Just remember why we all came here. I never saw anything that stated we needed to get in p7ssing matches with posters. Of course this is my opinion and I am probably wrong by consensus. So if I am wrong, let me know. We can hash this out elsewhere.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Tom, feel free to attempt to troubleshoot this problem with the info given.

    Response From way2old

    Ever get one in your bay and the driver says "Car Broke?" Still need paid. Gotta fix somehow.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Don't compare sitting in my bay examining a car myself with all my test equipment to sitting behind my computer relying on someone else to feed you info that refuses to do that.

    Response From way2old

    That is exactly my point. It takes longer here because you have to communicate with someone that is not possibly on your level of expertise. This poster stated he does not have all your test equipment and he is requesting knowledge to assist him.

    Response From Hammer Time

    As I said, you are welcome to frustrate yourself trying to troubleshoot this but I wasn't happy with the info provided nor the cooperation with my requests and I'm not the one that needs the free help. He appears to have had a change of tune in the most recent posts so we will see how that works out.

    Response From crewf16


    Hatred? You gotta be kidding. We donate our time here to help people but I have no patience at all for the know it alls that come in here asking for help but will not listen. It quite enough work to walk a novice through troubleshooting but when they want to argue about every step and tell us how something isn't necessary because they already know what the issue is, they just aren't worth the bother.

    Fix your own damn car. There are other people that need help and are willing to listen.


    OH, and by the way, a noid light costs about $6. Let's see how much you throw away in wasted parts.


    Fair enough. Can I get a Noid at Advance Auto or a similar place?
    Thanks,
    Ron

    Response From Hammer Time

    You should be able to. I have bought them at Autozone before. Make sure you look at your injector plug first and match up the correct light because they come with different pin spacing for different makes.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Yes, they are wrong.

    it uses a crank sensor instead of a pick up coil and the ignition control is done by the PCM

    The part in the distributor is a Cam sensor

    Response From crewf16

    Thanks Tom. I brought Starting Fluid with me but I was working in a WAl-Mart parking lot and forgot all about it. I am having it towed tonight and will get back to it in a few days. I appreciate your patience.
    Ron

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Ron - You have to take this one step at a time just like ever to find out what isn't happening. I'm not going to search the web but there was no carb for this in '98 on any engine. MFI for all meaning 8 fuel injectors vs a TBI which looks a bit like a carb at a glance.

    Injectors any which way need a pulse and proper pressure all on time. It's computer controlled so only going to spit fuel or spark for a grace period for start up. If controls don't sense that it is running or engine turning it would be designed to shut off the show to prevent it from blowing up.

    One by one find out what is missing. Plain power at the coil by the time you get there if w just a test light may and probably is inconclusive. If this engine has been altered (saw a kit out there) to Throttle Body Injection (TBI) info will be scarce,

    T

    Response From crewf16

    Tom: I understand that a throttle Body operates similar to injectors and is computer controlled. I think what you are saying is that if the system senses no fuel flow it will shut down the ignition? Reading your post again I am certain this engine is a TBI. No Injectors. I grew up in a service station and have done all of my own work for years. I woked as a Mechanic and HD Recovery and Crane Operator years back. This one just has me stumped.
    Thanks,
    Ron

    Response From crewf16


    Ron - Won't cost a thing to try for a '98, dist., "hall effect CMP" enough miles, with no pulse for spark. Take the dist. cap off and look. Could be dirty in there. Just blow it out carefully with compressed air and see if you regain spark. If not it's inconclusive. If it works find the source of excessive dirt which may not be normal. Just a cheap try to see if that simple,

    T


    Tom: I already have parts for a complete Tune Up. Do you think that would help even though there is nothing going to the rotor button from the coil?
    Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Ron