802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Ignition Coil

Choose a Year for your Oldsmobile 's Ignition Coil

  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1974
  • 1972
  • 1971
  • 1969
  • 1968
  • 1967
  • 1963
  • 1961
  • 1950
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Accel
    Accel
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Delphi
    Delphi
  • Karlyn
    Karlyn
  • MSD
    MSD
  • Mallory
    Mallory
  • NGK
    NGK
  • Prenco
    Prenco
  • Spectra
    Spectra
  • Spectra Premium
    Spectra Premium
  • Standard Ignition
    Standard Ignition
  • Vemo
    Vemo
  • Walker
    Walker

Best Selling Genuine Oldsmobile Ignition Coils

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Prenco, ACDelco, Karlyn, Delphi, Standard Ignition
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Oldsmobile Replacement Ignition Coil Parts
Prenco
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Ignition Coil Prenco

P311-064DC7F    W0133-1684773  New

Qty:
$40.45
Prenco Ignition Coil
Brand: Prenco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile LSS Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-1626F05    W0133-2103417  New

Qty:
$94.58
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile LSS
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile LSS Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-1626F05    W0133-2103417  New

Qty:
$94.58
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile LSS
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile LSS Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-1626F05    W0133-2103417  New

Qty:
$94.58
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile LSS
ACDelco
1987 Oldsmobile Firenza Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1987 - Oldsmobile Firenza 1
ACDelco
1987 Oldsmobile Firenza Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1987 - Oldsmobile Firenza 1
ACDelco
1992 Oldsmobile 88 Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Delco Remy Coil
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Oldsmobile 88
ACDelco
1992 Oldsmobile 88 Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
  • with Delco Remy Coil
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Oldsmobile 88
Karlyn
2004 Oldsmobile Bravada Ignition Coil Karlyn

P311-3382B07    W0133-2074670  New

Qty:
$73.11
Karlyn Ignition Coil
  • / Coil on Plug
  • (Includes Boot, Seal and Spring)
Brand: Karlyn
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Delphi
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Ignition Coil Delphi

P311-4183462    W0133-1684773  New

Qty:
$51.27
Delphi Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile LSS Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-1626F05    W0133-2103417  New

Qty:
$94.58
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile LSS
ACDelco
1987 Oldsmobile Firenza Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1987 - Oldsmobile Firenza 1
ACDelco
1992 Oldsmobile 88 Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
  • with Delco Remy Coil
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Oldsmobile 88
Delphi
2004 Oldsmobile Bravada Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 4.2L Delphi

P311-1F6608E    GN10114  New

UF-303 , 19300921 , 702423 , E255P , 8193009210 , C1395 , 12 56 8062 , 6737200 , 8125680620 , 673-7200 , IC414 , CUF303 , 50051 , E255 , 52-1743 , 1788390 , 8-12568-062-0 , C-642 , 5C1392 , C642 , IC414SB , 12568062 , 8Q5 , 26342 , UF303 , 178-8391

Qty:
$55.48
  • Ignition Coil
  • Boot and Spring Included Delphi is an OEM supplier
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Coil On Plug Ignition
    • Interface Description: 3 Pin Sealed Connector
    • Notes: L6 Fully Integrated Coil & Module. Includes Captured Bolt And Boot Asm.
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type/Series: Plug Top Coil (ptc)
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Oldsmobile Bravada L 6 Cyl 4.2L 256 -
Delphi
1988 Oldsmobile Firenza Ignition Coil 4 Cyl 2.0L Delphi

P311-190DFD0    GN10123  New

673-7102 , IC39SB , 8-10468-391-0 , 10472401 , 342J , 5192 , 1106008 , 10477602 , 729 25003 , DR39 , 10458179 , D546 , 5A9 , 10467067 , 178-8206 , 1103745 , C849 , E51 , D540 , DR187 , C1316 , CDR39 , DR185ACS , C-503 , IC39 , 920-1005 , DR39X , D555 , 10497771 , 52-1924 , 8104683910 , 26221 , E51P , D1996 , DR185A , 5C1058 , 10468391 , D576 , 1788206 , 8104724010 , E219 , 3507 , DR-39 , 10495121 , U3015 , 1AMIC00002 , 58909

Qty:
$34.50
  • Ignition Coil
  • Delphi is an OEM supplier
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Distributorless Ignition
    • Interface Description: 2 Female Pin Connectors And 2 Hv Terminals
    • Notes: Connector Interfaces With Module
    • Terminal Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type/Series: Dis Coil
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Oldsmobile Firenza 1 L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Delphi
2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 3.4L Delphi

P311-190DFD0    GN10123  New

673-7102 , IC39SB , 8-10468-391-0 , 10472401 , 342J , 5192 , 1106008 , 10477602 , 729 25003 , DR39 , 10458179 , D546 , 5A9 , 10467067 , 178-8206 , 1103745 , C849 , E51 , D540 , DR187 , C1316 , CDR39 , DR185ACS , C-503 , IC39 , 920-1005 , DR39X , D555 , 10497771 , 52-1924 , 8104683910 , 26221 , E51P , D1996 , DR185A , 5C1058 , 10468391 , D576 , 1788206 , 8104724010 , E219 , 3507 , DR-39 , 10495121 , U3015 , 1AMIC00002 , 58909

Qty:
$34.50
  • Ignition Coil
  • Delphi is an OEM supplier
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Distributorless Ignition
    • Interface Description: 2 Female Pin Connectors And 2 Hv Terminals
    • Notes: Connector Interfaces With Module
    • Terminal Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type/Series: Dis Coil
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Oldsmobile Silhouette V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Delphi
1986 Oldsmobile Toronado Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 3.8L Delphi

P311-190DFD0    GN10123  New

673-7102 , IC39SB , 8-10468-391-0 , 10472401 , 342J , 5192 , 1106008 , 10477602 , 729 25003 , DR39 , 10458179 , D546 , 5A9 , 10467067 , 178-8206 , 1103745 , C849 , E51 , D540 , DR187 , C1316 , CDR39 , DR185ACS , C-503 , IC39 , 920-1005 , DR39X , D555 , 10497771 , 52-1924 , 8104683910 , 26221 , E51P , D1996 , DR185A , 5C1058 , 10468391 , D576 , 1788206 , 8104724010 , E219 , 3507 , DR-39 , 10495121 , U3015 , 1AMIC00002 , 58909

Qty:
$34.50
  • Ignition Coil
  • Type II - Delco/Remy Delphi is an OEM supplier
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Distributorless Ignition
    • Interface Description: 2 Female Pin Connectors And 2 Hv Terminals
    • Notes: Connector Interfaces With Module
    • Terminal Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type/Series: Dis Coil
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Oldsmobile Toronado V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Delphi
1999 Oldsmobile Aurora Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 4.0L Delphi

P311-190DFD0    GN10123  New

673-7102 , IC39SB , 8-10468-391-0 , 10472401 , 342J , 5192 , 1106008 , 10477602 , 729 25003 , DR39 , 10458179 , D546 , 5A9 , 10467067 , 178-8206 , 1103745 , C849 , E51 , D540 , DR187 , C1316 , CDR39 , DR185ACS , C-503 , IC39 , 920-1005 , DR39X , D555 , 10497771 , 52-1924 , 8104683910 , 26221 , E51P , D1996 , DR185A , 5C1058 , 10468391 , D576 , 1788206 , 8104724010 , E219 , 3507 , DR-39 , 10495121 , U3015 , 1AMIC00002 , 58909

Qty:
$34.50
  • Ignition Coil
  • Delphi is an OEM supplier
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Distributorless Ignition
    • Interface Description: 2 Female Pin Connectors And 2 Hv Terminals
    • Notes: Connector Interfaces With Module
    • Terminal Gender: Female
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type/Series: Dis Coil
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Oldsmobile Aurora V 8 Cyl 4.0L 244 -
Standard Ignition
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada Ignition Coil Standard Ignition

P311-09BCEB9    UF-303  New

2-50051 , 26342 , 5C1392 , 8-12568-062-0 , 5073 , E255 , D502A , U5080 , E289 , C-642 , C1395 , 52-1743 , 178-8390 , C1395VC , 12568062 , 19300921 , 921-2003 , 028310 , GN10114 , 8Q5 , 673-7200 , 028315

Qty:
$61.97
Standard Ignition Ignition Coil
  • Coil on Plug Coil
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Coil Type: Electronic
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Shape: Oval
    • Connector Type: Plug In
    • Mounting Location: Engine Head
    • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Engineered and tested to match or exceed OE for spark energy output, impedance, and durability. Tested at extreme engine performance condition at 7200 RPM. Advanced thermoplastic coil connector ensures proper connection and resists fractures caused by heat and thermal cycling. High-temp boot prevents high-voltage leaks, while stainless-steel spring provides proper connection with spark plug. High-impact housing material ensures superior bond to epoxy for longer life in all operating conditions. Internal sintered core surrounded by grain-oriented, magnetic steel maximizes high-voltage output at all speeds. Primary (23 gauge) and Secondary (43 gauge) copper wire ensure high-voltage availability for peak performance while reinforced bobbins prevent voltage flashover for extended service life. Copper wires using higher insulation grade ensure heat resistance and prevent high voltage breakdown.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
2004 Oldsmobile Bravada Ignition Coil ACDelco - Coil on Plug

P311-2B863C3    W0133-2074670  New

Qty:
$219.96
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • GM Original Equipment
  • (Includes Boot, Seal and Spring)
  • Coil on Plug
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Oldsmobile Bravada

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Ignition Coil Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

84 Oldsmobile runs rough, plugs fouling

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From pikalpha on 84 Oldsmobile runs rough, plugs fouling

I have a 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (Hurst Olds) with a 307 engine and 54k Kilometers. The car was the victim of an attempted car theft. The thieves smashed the steering column in an attempt to hot wire the car but the aftermarket alarm system that cuts the volts going to the ignition from 12 to 6 prevented the car from starting and the thieves gave up.
The column has since been repaired and all looks good but soon after, at different times, wisps of smoke that smelled like wire insulation burning came from the ignition key cylinder. Soon after the wisps of smoke stopped, the car started running rough and spark plugs were fouling out very quickly, it seemed every 10-20 miles it was time to replace them. When taken out, the plugs were a mixture of dry grey soot and black, wet with gas.

I took the steering wheel off, took out the lock cylinder and saw no signs of burnt wires; so maybe the problem is further down the column? I have been told that the automatic choke may be stuck open. I opened the auto choke on the carb and saw nothing unusual but replaced it anyway, but don't know if that really helped any. I also replaced the ignition switch on the column under the dash but that didn't seem to help. I do wonder if the old aftermarket alarm system, which is still wired in the car but not working, could be part of the problem but would this cause wires to burn in the column? I would have taken the alarm system out but I don't know how to reroute the wires.

This does seem to be an electrical issue because it appears that's how the problem started. I am stumped at what the problem might be.

Hope I've given you enough info to go on. Any help or suggestions on what you think I should look at or maybe replacing would be appreciated.

thank you!

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

I would tend to agree with you that the alarm is at fault here. I would guess it still is limiting voltage but just enough to allow it to run, crappy but running nonetheless. Check your voltage at the ignition coil terminal to verify this. I would recommend you find the info on this alarm and contact the manufacturer. I would think their website would show you exactly how it is installed so you could properly remove it without further damage.

While its a shame you have to go through this trouble and expense because some sticky fingered punk doesn't want to get a job to buy what he wants, I'm glad he didn't get the satisfaction of leaving with your car. Never use car alarms myself, got a pistol grip 12 gauge that tends to make them nervous. Some have tried to jack my ride over the years but to date no success.

Let us know what you find on this alarm and about the readings at your ignition coil.

Engine keeps dieing

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From 02'sixer on Engine keeps dieing

Hi, I'm new here. I've run out of ideas for what could be left that would cause this.

1990 oldsmobile cutlass supreme 3.1 L V6 fuel injected, 120k miles

On the way home the engine suddenly wouldn't go past idle, and would die if the gas was pressed. I pulled over to the side of the road where Idled for a few minutes before dieing. Since getting the car home we've found out that the engine will start and idle for a few minutes/seconds before dieing and that if we put it into gear it will almost immediatly die with a sound like its getting starved.Since then I have replaced the TPS, cleaned the MAF, checked the spark plugs, replaced the fuel filter, fuel strainer in tank, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, and checked the fuel pump relay/fuse. A few weeks before this happened we replaced the fuel pump.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

The first problem will be determining whether it is actually running out of fuel, or losing spark when it dies. Have you performed a fuel pressure test? If so, post the pressures with and without the regulator connected. If you are losing spark, could be crank sensor or control module. The ignition coils can/do go bad. If you have good fuel pressure, but still is starving for fuel, check/clean IAC (might be stuck wide open). Of course, check carefully for vacuum leaks. I've had several 3.1 engines where one injector will short out and take out two more, electrically.
You'll probably have to pull the plenum, but a resistance check of all of the injectors may be in order.

86 Olds Cutlass Ciera misfire help

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From platinumfossil on 86 Olds Cutlass Ciera misfire help

1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with 2.8L fuel injected engine and auto tranny. i've had this car for a little over a year now as a daily driver of about 30 miles/day and decided it needed a little TLC with the oil change that was due. changed the oil yesterday and went to napa website and found the correct spark plugs, wires and distributor cap for the make/model/engine i have. picked the items up and installed them this afternoon and the car ran normally. before the work the car ran pretty good for me with the occasional stall (once every few days at most) whether hot or cold engine; figured this was a minor idling issue. after the work the engine is missing and the car stalls pretty much anytime i slow down for a turn unless i keep one foot on the accelerator and one on the brake to keep the rpm's up. starts ok but will stall if i don't keep the rpm's up. i found the firing order on the autozone website and confirmed that i have the plug wires on the correct posts on the distributor cap. also noticed that my "service engine soon" light pops on after a mile or so of driving and stays on. and now the cruise control won't engage; i've never had an issue with it before. i'm about 40 minutes away from the nearest parts store so i'd like to try to figure this out without making that trip, plus my weekend is now over and i need to go to work for the next 5 days and don't want to drive the car in it's current condition. thanks in advance for all advice and suggestions, please help me out!

Response From platinumfossil

both of you were right on with the vacuum hose idea. after reading your posts i spent some more time under the hood and found one hose totally off of its connection and another hose that had either been beat up by me or had just worn out. either way it was in pretty bad shape with some good splits running down the sides so i got it replaced and the other one i knocked off put back on.
i did some google work and found out how to get the check engine code with a paper clip and found out it was a 32. this code is: EGR vacuum switch was closed during start-up or idle, or EGR vacuum switch did not close when EGR solenoid was commanded to close by ECM for 5 seconds.
i don't know what the EGR vacuum switch is but with the help of some autozone.com searching i figured out what the solenoid is and the one bad hose i replaced was connected right below it. i disconnected my neg cable on the battery for about 30 seconds to clear the code then went for a drive. i drove about 15 minutes with no check engine light so i think i've got all the vacuum issues taken care of. tomorrow will be the best test since i have to drive about 20 minutes each way to work.
the main issue now is that the engine is still a little rough. not as bad as before i got the vacuum hoses back in place but she still likes to stall out when slowing to a stop. it will idle better now but is still rough and it will still die sometimes. i'm debating whether i should use one of my old spark plug wires to try to find if i have a bad new one, was also thinking about doing the same thing with an old plug. basically my plan was to swap the new ones out one at a time with an old one and go for a short drive to see if there is a difference. this will be pretty time consuming and was hoping there would be an easier way to find out if there was a cylinder misfiring and which one? thanks for the help to all.

Response From Hammer Time

Go back and check your firing order again and make sure all the wires are seated completely. If you still have a miss, remove the plugs again and look for cracks in the porcelain.

1986 Oldsmobile Ciera
2.8 liter V-6 VIN "X" 2-bbl

Response From platinumfossil Top Rated Answer

ok, i'm getting really ticked off at this problem....

i went to autozone yesterday and bought an ignition rotor (p/n DR923), ignition coil (p/n C846) and a pick up coil (p/n DR132). installed the ignition rotor and coil and pulled all of the plugs and plug wires back off to inspect them and check the gaps on the plugs. the wires are ok, no melted areas at least; i don't have a multimeter handy or i would check the wire resistance. the plugs weren't fouled, the gaps were good at .045, and none of the porcelain was cracked.
i couldnt get the pick up coil changed becasue i culdnt get the original one out. i dont know how to pull the shaft out that the pick up coil sits around, i did a google search but the one hit i found that was related to my situation said that i just had to pull the shaft out up and out. i did some tugging on it and it really ain't budging so i gave up on the pick up coil until i get my haynes manual. ordered one the other day online but it hasn't shown up in the mail yet.
so basically all i've done today is the ignition coil and rotor and checked the plugs and wires. reinstalled everything and now the damn engine wont start! it turns over and over but wont fire. i swapped back to the original ignition coil and rotor and double checked my firing order and tried again. no start!
i'm guessing i have an issue with the distributor now but don't know how to figure it out. any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated. thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From platinumfossil

yeah i've read this word for word on several auto help websites too, i was really hoping for an answer that involved someone actually considering my situation and trying to help. i suppose many problems can be solved with a copy and paste from another website or from a repair guide saved on your computer but it really doesn't help me right now.

the car ran, still missing and running roughly with stalling problems, all day yesterday. i didnt start it today because i wanted to work on a cool engine but i seriously doubt that the fuel pressure got screwed up overnight while sitting in my garage. i also don't think the compression got screwed up either, i double checked all of my vacuum lines since i beat them up last time and they are all good. to me it's obvious that the issue is somewhere in the spark requirement but i don't know how to eliminate it down to a specific part. i don't have a spark plug tester but may be able to figure out how to make one myself, the internet is a powerful tool. i'm not sure how to use a noid light to test the injector pulse, where would i touch the probe to?

Response From Hammer Time

Let me tell you something. I wrote every word of that answer. Yes, i use it a lot and I have answered for many forums and I bet other people have taken it and used it too. That is the exact procedure you have to follow. if you think there is some kind of magic shortcut, you're wrong. we need every bit of that information to isolate where your problem is coming from. If you feel that is too much work for you or you just want to assume things, then you need to find someone else to help you.

Response From platinumfossil

ok MC Hammer Time, i can see that i bent your feelers a bit so i'm probably going to have to give up on carjunky.com for help. oh well, there are others out there that maybe you aren't the only one who answers questions on.

let me tell you something. us everyday joes who join websites like this for help don't have a full shop in our garages like you self-proclaimed ASE masters do, so stuff like fuel pressure and compression tests are kinda tough to do. why don't you just answer all of your posts with "take your vehicle to an ASE master mechanic shop and pay out the arse for complete diagnostic testing and labor rates"
i'm not looking for any magic shortcuts, just simply some help. am i being totally absurd when i say the car ran yesterday so i don't think a fuel pressure or compression test are necessary? really?

We don't allow links here
thanks again for all of your fantastic help!!!

Response From Hammer Time

Lazy is not going to get your car fixed. If you want to try the crystal ball method, you're welcome to. We deal with facts.

You can get a spark tester and noid light both for under $10. The fuel pressure gauge and compression tester can be gotten for free through the loaner program at Autozone or PepBoys.

If you want to continue to throw parts at it with no testing, that will get a lot more expensive than a couple of testing tools.

Response From platinumfossil

yeah, i suppose i could borrow the tools from a local parts store. i think i mentioned in my original post that i'm about 40 minutes away from the nearest parts store though and like i mentioned in post #7 the car won't freaking start right now so it'll probably take more like 40 hours to push it to autozone. i'm not being lazy you ass, i'm trying to get my car running again with the limited resources i have available. as far as throwing parts at it goes, i don't mind replacing these parts since they've probably never been replaced or are overdue anyways. i want this car to run well for me for an extended period of time, that's why i was changing the plugs, wires and distributor in the first place. or are those a waste of money too in your "master" opinion?

Response From Hammer Time

that's why i was changing the plugs, wires and distributor in the first place

Yeah, how's that working out for you. If you keep prying on that distributor, you'll be replacing that too.

We don't guess or experiment, we test.

Response From tooanoyu

IMHO you still have a timing issue. Start fresh get a cup of coffee relax your fustrated.
1. Set the emgine to # 1 TDC pull the plug out of number 1 cylindar make sure it is on the top of the stroke. Lightly stick a screwdriver making sure it's there or a flashlight and make sure its there. WHY - Sure this will place the rotor where it needs to be on the distributor cap. then you can follow the diagram and trouble shoot it.

2. take of the distributor cap. Look at the position of the rotor it could be 180 degrees off???

3. Look to see if the rotor strike is at the same position on the contact point for number 1 plug wire. NOTE: just becuase the diagram shows where number one wire goes is doesn't mean thats where it is on the distributor cap. on my distributor cap it actually moves to the other side on the cap the cap is wired thru it.

You can actually be 180 dregrees off so long as you have the firing order right you can still have a good running car. Maybe when it was messed with before you could have happened.

You need to make sure where number one fire, spark, cap, rotar are thru the system then the rest will follow into place and follow the rotation of the firing order on the diagram.

Response From platinumfossil

Hammer Time thanks for the quick reply and for trying to assist me with this issue.

i found a similar diagram for the firing order last week when i started having the issue because that's what i figured i screwed up. the only difference is the diagram i found wasn't so handily color coded. the issue i have with both of the diagrams is that the posts are not perfectly aligned against the engine like the diagram shows. for example, the post for #2 in the diagram is at the 12 o'clock position, well when looking at them in real life it's more like at about 11 o'clock.
i will double check tomorrow after work and maybe start pulling plugs to look for a fouled or cracked one then i'll post up an update. i just hate to dig back in there too far because the vacuum hoses are in pretty bad shape. i didn't realize they were so bad until i started chasing them looking for a leak. also the various plastic parts of the vacuum system are pretty brittle, learned that the hard way earlier when i broke one. took some electrical tape to temporarily fix until i can get to napa again. thanks again!

Response From techforfree

Theres a pretty good chance you accidently pulled off a vacuum hose when you were tuning it up,that will cause the stalling,the check engine light and also the cruise control is vacuum controlled so it sounds they are related..look for that first.If the engine idles you can usually hear a hissing noise.Good luck..

Response From Hammer Time

First step is to have the codes read and see why the check engoine light is on. I'm expecting that you knocked off a vacuum hose somewhere or left something unplugged.

'92 Old.'s Achieva Quad 4 Oil pressure problem.

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From Fuzzylugnuts on '92 Old.'s Achieva Quad 4 Oil pressure problem.

I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Achieve S with a Quad 4, 2.3L engine. When I got the car the oil pressure gauge would read way over (the max) 80 psi. I found that when driving around for about 15-20 min's, and coming to a stop, the oil pressure gauge would read under 20 psi. and die, just like that. The only time I would be able to move the car again is to wait 20-30 min's before starting it. It would start and run, but another 15-20 min's it would do it again. (shoot up passed 80 psi while driving and shoot back below 20 psi when stopped in drive & die)

I changed the oil 10w-30, oil filter, and oil pressure gauge. Now it will read just under 80 (while running) and just over 40 (while stopped in drive), BUT will do the same thing as before.

During the time I drove it, it would be fine idling in Park or Neutral. This would only happen in R or Drive after the car warmed up.

I have talked to a few people, and told me that it could be the ignition coil, or fuel regulator. (When the hose is disconnected from the regulator it still does the same thing)...?

Can you please help me out, I don't want to start buying parts left and right, until I know the problem.

Thanks!

Response From Double J

So it sounds like the oil pressure reading concern is solved BUT now your trying to find the reason for the stall concern...correct?

When it stalls out ,it won't restart for 30 minutes?..
Only stalls in reverse or drive when warm?

Is there any check engine light on or coming on?..if so post code/s
Many a thing can cause a stall ...

Any more info would help us help you

Response From Fuzzylugnuts

1. Yes
2. About 30 min's, Yes
3. Yes when warm it stalls in Drive and Reverse only.

I forgot to say that the oil light stays on all the time, and never goes out. (the oil level is great)
And that the oil pressure gauge goes down slowly from 80 to 40 takes a few min's than stalls out in Drive.
I tried to get the RPM's up to about 2000 and drop it to drive, but still nothing, just dies?
The check engine light works and does not come on at all.
It was tested (at an auto parts store) by a computer and nothing came up.
I told them the situation and they told me about the 2 parts that I stated before.

So I have no idea what to do, if you guys don't have any ideas.

Response From Fuzzylugnuts

Okay, I have found that it could be (IAC) Idle Air Control Valve?
I haven't yet tested it.
Would that be something that would cross your mind when reading my problems?

Thanx for the help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Oil light is still on all the time!" With just that without a separate tester anything could be in the mix up to "game over" for this engine??

T

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Not sure if I have much to offer ...BUT...
The main thing would be first to have the oil pressure tested with a mechanical gauge...see where that is..if there is a problem there..cause if there is an oil pressure problem...like Tom said..it could spell trouble for this engine.

The IAC could cause a stall but I don't believe that would cause it to take 30 minutes to restart...
Thats usually along the lines of a fuel pump problem or an Ignition (spark) problem...BUT...
These were known for (some were anyway) that the wiring harness to the IAC would chafe on the throttle cable bracket....had to be repaired and rerouted....
Just a thought there...


YOu mentioned the oil pressure "gauge" was replaced..was it the "gauge" or the oil pressure sending unit/switch?

no fire to my spark plugs

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From randyeppers1980 on no fire to my spark plugs

my vehicle is a 1983 oldsmobile delta 88. it has 136,000 miles on the odometer. engine is a 307 c.i.d. V8 with factory 4 barrel carb. i have no spark to my spark plugs. the following items are new...spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, coil on top of the cap, ignition control module, and the pick up coil inside the distributor. i have a maintenance free distributor in that it just turns the fly wheel. unless the teeth are damaged(which theyre not) it should work if everything else works. all components are new. no crank shaft sensor on my vehicle( i've been told) what else is there? also when i removed the distributor, i marked the fly wheel and distributor so i didnt reinstall it 180' retarded or advanced. so tell me please what im missing!!!

Response From Vinnysnismo Top Rated Answer

Even if you put the distributor in 180 out it would still have spark, just not in the correct order(probably wouldn't run and if it did it would run very bad). Are you getting power into the plug that goes into your distributor? Start there. If no power your problem lies before the distributor. Also VERY IMPORTANT-- if it is a HEI ignition(coil on top of cap) you have to make sure they you install the SECONDARY NEGATIVE on the coil(it is actually for the pick-up coil)if this wire is not installed it will cause the coil wires to melt through causing "voltage punch through" destroying the coil cap n rotor. If this wire is not installed the motor will still run.... but make sure it has it. When i bought my truck (GMC w/ 350 HEI) the person that had it before me did not install the wire. My truck ran fine for a long time and one day the wires that go to the coil melted together causing all 8 cyl to ignite at the same time almost blowing the motor.(it backfired so loud a cop heard it 3 miles away) Check for power going to your dist when you turn your key on.. also make sure your rotor turns when the motor is cranked over..if not...you have serious problems.

Response From kathill73

did you find out what was wrong as im having same problem

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the rotor inside cap turning when the engine is cranking?

T