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Best Selling Genuine Mercury Ignition Coils

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Delphi, Standard Ignition, Motorcraft, WSO, Prenco, Original Equipment
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mercury Replacement Ignition Coil Parts

We stock Ignition Coil parts for most Mercury models, including Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mountaineer, Sable, Villager.

Delphi
2011 Mercury Grand Marquis Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 4.6L Delphi

P311-4400691    GN10164  New

702418 , E416 , 5C1412 , FD503T , 921-2005 , 26326 , 673-6000 , FD-504 , 4-517 , 50006 , 1L2Z 12029-AA , 3W7Z 12029-AA , C1454 , 60-1000 , C1417 , IC369SB , CFD503 , DG508 , IC369 , C-500 , F523 , 6736000 , 3W7Z12029AA , 4517 , 1L2Z12029AA , FD503 , F7TZ12029CA , C-592 , 7B3 , E262 , 52-1761 , DG491 , C500 , E262P , IC516 , 601000 , FD-503 , DG-510 , DG-491 , 4W7Z 12029-AA , DG-508 , F7TZ 12029-CA

Qty:
$34.44
Delphi Ignition Coil
  • Ignition Coil
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Coil On Plug Ignition
    • Interface Description: 2 Pin Male Sealed Connector
    • Notes: Coil Without Module; Coil Comes With Boot
    • Package Contents: Coil Unit
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type/Series: Plug Top Coil (ptc)
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 10
    • Most jobs typically require 10 of this item.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Grand Marquis V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Delphi
2007 Mercury Monterey Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 4.2L Delphi

P311-4F8ABED    GN10179  New

5F2Z12029AD , DG-532 , 5F2Z 12029-AD , 5C1124 , IC364 , U2023 , 26338 , 1F2Z 12029-AC , 26330 , CLS1003 , 50015 , E260 , FD-498 , 1F21-18-100B , 52-1692 , 1F21-18-100A , 178-8366 , IC364SB , CFD498 , 920-1016 , C1312 , 2M6 , C-565 , FD498T , GY07-18-100 , 1F2118100B , 673-6001 , E260P

Qty:
$63.14
Delphi Ignition Coil
  • Ignition Coil
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Triple Coil Pack
    • Interface Description: 4 Male Pin Sealed Connector
    • Notes: 3 Mounting Holes; 6 Overmolded Hv Towers
    • Package Contents: Coil Unit
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type/Series: Triple Coil Pack
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mercury Monterey V 6 Cyl 4.2L 256 -
Delphi
2004 Mercury Marauder Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 4.6L Delphi

P311-2DF2A1C    GN10193  New

1F3Z12029AA , 26341 , C1141 , 52-1571 , 2C6Z12029AA , DG-543 , DG543 , CUF191 , F7LZ12029AD , 4L7Z12029AB , 673-6008 , E223 , CLS1008 , E223P , 4L7Z12029AA , IC63 , IC617 , C , 5084 , 921-2001 , 2C6Z 12029-AA , 6Q4 , 5C1128 , 50045 , C-584 , F7LZ 12029-AD , 4L7Z 12029-AB , C-756 , UF-191 , 60-1001 , 4L7Z 12029-AA , 1F3Z 12029-AA , 601001 , IC63SB , UF-191T

Qty:
$37.25
Delphi Ignition Coil
  • Ignition Coil
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Coil On Plug Ignition
    • Interface Description: 2 Pin Male Sealed Connector
    • Notes: Coil Comes With Boot; No Mounting Holes
    • Package Contents: Coil Unit
    • Terminal Type: Pin
    • Type/Series: Plug Top Coil (ptc)
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mercury Marauder V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Delphi
2007 Mercury Mountaineer Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 4.6L Delphi

P311-259659A    GN10182  New

5C1584 , C1541 , DG511 , C-652 , 50082 , IC558SB , 60-1005 , 5071 , E508 , 3L3Z12029BA , FD-508T , E508P , 52-1839 , 3L3Z 12029-BA , 921-2007 , IC558 , CFD508 , 673-6003 , CLS1012 , FD-508 , FD508 , 7Q8 , FD508T

Qty:
$40.16
Delphi Ignition Coil
  • Ignition Coil
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Coil On Plug Ignition
    • Interface Description: 2 Pin Male Sealed Connector
    • Notes: Coil Without Module; Coil Comes With Boot
    • Package Contents: Coil Unit
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type/Series: Plug Top Coil (ptc)
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Delphi
2008 Mercury Mountaineer Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 4.6L Delphi

P311-259659A    GN10182  New

5C1584 , C1541 , DG511 , C-652 , 50082 , IC558SB , 60-1005 , 5071 , E508 , 3L3Z12029BA , FD-508T , E508P , 52-1839 , 3L3Z 12029-BA , 921-2007 , IC558 , CFD508 , 673-6003 , CLS1012 , FD-508 , FD508 , 7Q8 , FD508T

Qty:
$40.16
Delphi Ignition Coil
  • Ignition Coil
  • Direct Ignition Coil Boot
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead, Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer And Birth Defects Or Reproductive Harm. For More Information Go To Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
    • Coil Type: Coil On Plug Ignition
    • Interface Description: 2 Pin Male Sealed Connector
    • Notes: Coil Without Module; Coil Comes With Boot
    • Package Contents: Coil Unit
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type/Series: Plug Top Coil (ptc)
  • Delphi OE technology ignition products are validated to match the vehicles system; OE quality replacement parts for the right fit , form and function; Delphi coils provide OE performance, durability and electromagnetic capacity level requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Standard Ignition
2001 Mercury Cougar Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 2.5L Standard Ignition

P311-4DC488B    FD-498  New

1F2Z-12029AC , DG532 , C1337 , 354K , 60-2001 , 36-1189 , E260 , 3IC104 , 178-8366 , C562 , 2-50015 , 1F21-19-100A , 2505-98348 , C1312VC , C1312 , 5C1124 , 5F2Z-12029-AD , 920-1016 , V25-70-0017 , 1F2U-12029-AC , 26330 , U2023 , GY07-18-100 , 89057149 , 1415099 , 673-6001 , 1F21-18-100B , 2M6 , GN10179 , 1F21-18-100A , 52-1692 , 1F2Z-12029AA , C-565 , 1F2Z12029AA , 1F21-18-100 , 5055

Qty:
$65.97
Standard Ignition Ignition Coil
  • Ignition Coil
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Coil Type: Electronic
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Shape: Rectangular
    • Connector Type: Plug In
    • Hardware Included: No
    • Mounting Bracket(s) Included: Yes
    • Mounting Location: Engine Bay
    • Oil Filled: No
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 4
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Voltage: 12
  • Engineered and tested to match or exceed OE for spark energy output, impedance, and durability. Tested at extreme engine performance condition at 7200 RPM. Advanced thermoplastic coil connector ensures proper connection and resists fractures caused by heat and thermal cycling. High-impact housing material ensures superior bond to epoxy for longer life in all operating conditions. Internal, neodymium permanent magnet core surrounded by grain-oriented, magnetic-laminated steel maximizes high-voltage output at all speeds. Primary (23 gauge) and Secondary (44 gauge) copper wire ensure high-voltage availability for peak performance while reinforced bobbins prevent voltage flashover for extended service life. Copper wires using higher insulation grade ensure heat resistance and prevent high voltage breakdown. Optimum wire distribution developed by extensive testing ensures superior functional parameters and durability.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Mercury Cougar V 6 Cyl 2.5L 155 2450
Standard Ignition
2000 Mercury Grand Marquis Ignition Coil Standard Ignition

P311-051D7C9    FD-503  New

F7TZ12A366AB , E262 , DG508 , F7TZ-12029CC , 82423 , 89057153 , C1417VC , 140032 , 5C1127 , GN10164 , 673-6000 , C-500 , 0221504704 , 5011 , 346S , 2-50006 , U5182 , 36-8013 , F7TU-12A336CB , 1L2Z12029AC , 1L2Z-12029AA , C1417 , 1L2U 12029 AA , C1139 , 921-2005 , 7B3 , 26326 , 60-1000 , C566 , 5C1412 , 88921369 , 52-1761 , F523 , 4-517 , 420001 , V25-70-0028 , 2505-34733

Qty:
$32.66
Standard Ignition Ignition Coil
  • Coil on Plug Coil
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Coil Type: Electronic
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Shape: Rectangular
    • Connector Type: Plug In
    • Hardware Included: No
    • Mounting Bracket(s) Included: Yes
    • Mounting Location: Valve Cover
    • Oil Filled: No
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Voltage: 12
  • Engineered and tested to match or exceed OE for spark energy output, impedance, and durability. Tested at extreme engine performance condition at 7200 RPM. Advanced thermoplastic coil connector ensures proper connection and resists fractures caused by heat and thermal cycling. High-temp boot prevents high-voltage leaks, while stainless-steel spring with internal ferrite noise suppressor prevents radiofrequency interference (RFI). High-impact housing material ensures superior bond to epoxy for longer life in all operating conditions. Internal, neodymium permanent magnet core surrounded by grain-oriented, magnetic-laminated steel maximizes high-voltage output at all speeds. Primary (25 gauge) and Secondary (44 gauge) copper wire ensure high-voltage availability for peak performance while reinforced bobbins prevent voltage flashover for extended service life. Copper wires using higher insulation grade ensure heat resistance and prevent high voltage breakdown.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 10
    • Most jobs typically require 10 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Mercury Grand Marquis
Standard Ignition
2006 Mercury Mountaineer Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 4.6L Standard Ignition

P311-571925C    FD-508  New

673-6003 , C-652 , C1541 , DG511 , E508 , 0221504705 , 420006 , 1IC103 , 351297 , 2-50082 , 921-2007 , 3L3Z-12029BA , 3L3U-12A366-BB , 26338 , C1541VC , V25-70-0045 , 52-1839 , 5071 , 5C1584 , U5150 , GN10182 , 35-1297 , 140033 , 82433

Qty:
$43.13
Standard Ignition Ignition Coil
  • Coil on Plug Coil
  • Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Coil Type: Electronic
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Shape: Rectangular
    • Mounting Bracket(s) Included: Yes
    • Mounting Location: Valve Cover
    • Oil Filled: No
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Voltage: 12
  • Engineered and tested to match or exceed OE for spark energy output, impedance, and durability. Tested at extreme engine performance condition at 7200 RPM. Advanced thermoplastic coil connector ensures proper connection and resists fractures caused by heat and thermal cycling. High-temp boot prevents high-voltage leaks, while stainless-steel spring with internal ferrite noise suppressor prevents radiofrequency interference (RFI). High-impact housing material ensures superior bond to epoxy for longer life in all operating conditions. Internal, neodymium permanent magnet core surrounded by grain-oriented, magnetic-laminated steel maximizes high-voltage output at all speeds. Primary (25 gauge) and Secondary (44 gauge) copper wire ensure high-voltage availability for peak performance while reinforced bobbins prevent voltage flashover for extended service life. Copper wires using higher insulation grade ensure heat resistance and prevent high voltage breakdown.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 10
    • Most jobs typically require 10 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Standard Ignition
2008 Mercury Mountaineer Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 4.6L Standard Ignition

P311-571925C    FD-508  New

673-6003 , C-652 , C1541 , DG511 , E508 , 0221504705 , 420006 , 1IC103 , 351297 , 2-50082 , 921-2007 , 3L3Z-12029BA , 3L3U-12A366-BB , 26338 , C1541VC , V25-70-0045 , 52-1839 , 5071 , 5C1584 , U5150 , GN10182 , 35-1297 , 140033 , 82433

Qty:
$43.13
Standard Ignition Ignition Coil
  • Coil on Plug Coil
  • with Black Coil Boots Blue Streak Premium Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Coil Type: Electronic
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Shape: Rectangular
    • Mounting Bracket(s) Included: Yes
    • Mounting Location: Valve Cover
    • Oil Filled: No
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Voltage: 12
  • Engineered and tested to match or exceed OE for spark energy output, impedance, and durability. Tested at extreme engine performance condition at 7200 RPM. Advanced thermoplastic coil connector ensures proper connection and resists fractures caused by heat and thermal cycling. High-temp boot prevents high-voltage leaks, while stainless-steel spring with internal ferrite noise suppressor prevents radiofrequency interference (RFI). High-impact housing material ensures superior bond to epoxy for longer life in all operating conditions. Internal, neodymium permanent magnet core surrounded by grain-oriented, magnetic-laminated steel maximizes high-voltage output at all speeds. Primary (25 gauge) and Secondary (44 gauge) copper wire ensure high-voltage availability for peak performance while reinforced bobbins prevent voltage flashover for extended service life. Copper wires using higher insulation grade ensure heat resistance and prevent high voltage breakdown.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 10
    • Most jobs typically require 10 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Standard Ignition
2005 Mercury Sable Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 3.0L Standard Ignition

P311-46B3B12    UF-406  New

2M2Z12029AB , AJ51-18-100 , C1563 , E426 , 178-8365 , 52-1859 , 2M2E-12A366-AC , GN10226 , 921-2080 , C-659 , AJ51-18-100A , F588 , 673-6005 , 420008 , 5C1453 , 2M2Z-12029AC , C1387 , 19164707 , 2505-256197 , 351301 , 26340 , 5C1619 , 0221504702 , 2M2Z12029AA , 5060 , ZZB118100 , 2-50101 , 356E , DG513 , 35-1301 , 921-2004 , 52-1739 , 36-8158

Qty:
$41.89
Standard Ignition Ignition Coil
  • Coil on Plug Coil
  • Genuine Intermotor Quality
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Mounting Location: Direct Ignition
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Voltage: 12
  • Designed and manufactured to SMP’s strict quality standards, so you can install with confidence. Engineered and tested to match OE for spark energy output, impedance, and durability. Advanced thermoplastic coil connector ensures proper connection and resists fractures caused by heat and thermal cycling. High-temp boot prevents high-voltage leaks, while stainless-steel spring with internal ferrite noise suppressor prevents radiofrequency interference (RFI). High-impact housing material bonds extremely well to epoxy to ensure longer life in all operating conditions. Internal, neodymium permanent magnet core surrounded by grain-oriented, magnetic-laminated steel maximizes high-voltage output at all speeds. Primary (25 gauge) and Secondary (43 gauge) copper wire ensure high-voltage availability for peak performance while reinforced bobbins prevent voltage flashover for extended service life. Isolator manufactured using high voltage-resistant thermoplastics to prevent premature coil failure.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mercury Sable DOHC V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Motorcraft
2007 Mercury Mountaineer Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 4.0L Motorcraft

P311-3FCA498    W0133-1857330  New

Qty:
$191.38
Motorcraft Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mercury Mountaineer V 6 Cyl 4.0L 245 -
Motorcraft
2007 Mercury Mountaineer Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 4.0L Motorcraft

P311-3FCA498    W0133-1857330  New

Qty:
$191.38
Motorcraft Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mercury Mountaineer V 6 Cyl 4.0L 245 -
Motorcraft
2000 Mercury Sable Ignition Coil Motorcraft

P311-02907B6    W0133-1897071  New

Qty:
$172.98
Motorcraft Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
2000 - Mercury Sable OHV
Motorcraft
1991 Mercury Colony Park Ignition Coil Motorcraft

P311-5D9EED0    W0133-1619191  New

Qty:
$88.30
Motorcraft Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Mercury Colony Park
WSO
2005 Mercury Sable Ignition Coil WSO

P311-2379C46    W0133-1855837  New

Qty:
$76.38
WSO Ignition Coil
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Cylinder Head Type
2005 - Mercury Sable GAS OHV
Motorcraft
2005 Mercury Sable Ignition Coil Motorcraft

P311-4AC64D9    W0133-1855837  New

Qty:
$154.09
Motorcraft Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Cylinder Head Type
2005 - Mercury Sable GAS OHV
Prenco
2005 Mercury Sable Ignition Coil Prenco

P311-52E1727    W0133-1855837  New

Qty:
$93.78
Prenco Ignition Coil
Brand: Prenco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Cylinder Head Type
2005 - Mercury Sable GAS OHV
Original Equipment
2005 Mercury Sable Ignition Coil Original Equipment

P311-32671A5    W0133-1855837  New

Qty:
$159.80
Original Equipment Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Cylinder Head Type
2005 - Mercury Sable GAS OHV
Motorcraft
1999 Mercury Tracer Ignition Coil Motorcraft

P311-3F2FC67    W0133-1889726  New

Qty:
$170.06
Motorcraft Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Tracer
WSO
1999 Mercury Mystique Ignition Coil 4 Cyl 2.0L WSO

P311-47D4336    W0133-1898513  New

Qty:
$28.54
WSO Ignition Coil
  • Production: 05/03/1999-
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1999 - Mercury Mystique L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1989 Fr:05-03-99

Latest Mercury Repair and Ignition Coil Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1996 Mercury Villager PO325 code

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From lawsontw on 1996 Mercury Villager PO325 code

Help needed for 96 Mercury Villager...when cold van starts fine but runs for 15 - 30 minutes then will start to miss and run rough until it eventually will die. If codes checked at that time before starting I get a PO325 Knock Sensor 1 circuit malfuntion Bank 1 or 1 Sensor. Have replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap,rotor,fuel filter, ignition coil, (power transistor)i.e. ignition control module no help. Everytime after engine cools it starts again and runs about 20 minutes. Could this be catalytic converter or exhaust related? Have tried when it dies to spray starter fluid in throttle body but will not start.

Thanks in advance!!!

Response From DanD

When its not starting what’s missing; spark, fuel pressure or injector pulse?
We would need this information to even begin suggesting anything.
Dan.

Response From lawsontw Top Rated Answer

Hi Dan,
Im trying to check all of that with the limited equipment I have. When it gets to operating tempeture it starts running
rough then dies. When I turn ignition on I get several clicks then they stop? Is it posible the fuel pump could quit
like that when warm same time every time?
Thanks,
Tom

Response From DanD

Sure almost anything is possible but you don’t want to be throwing parts at this thing on guesses.
Dan.

Fuel pump power

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From c34morales on Fuel pump power

2001 Mercury cougar v6 2.5 dual cam 130kmi. not getting any power to fuel pump. fuel pump changed and car started, after 60miles car died and ignition coil changed, battery and fuel pump again. relays and fuses have been checked and still no power to fuel pump. could fuel pump switch be stuck and if so how do I reset?

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

If you are talking about the inertia switch, it should be in the truck somewhere behind a panel. There is a push button on it that pops up when it gets tripped, just push the button back down to reset it.....

You could also check to make sure it's getting power to & thru it...........

Response From JackThomas

Get a fuel pressure gauge & leave it connected while you drive. Don't let it distract you from watching where you're going, but try to notice what it does just before & during the stall.
The connector on that style of hi-pressure pump is known to loosen, but it's easy to repair. There's a molded hard plastic connector near the pump clipped to the frame rail - that's NOT the one. Follow those wires down to the pump, where they go into a rubber boot. Slide the boot up to access the terminals. Pull one off at a time, crimp it slightly tighter with pliers, & put it back. Reinstalling the boot is a challenge, but it's doable.....

Response From Sidom

This is a "no start" condition the op is dealing with.

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Troubleshot a lot. not sure what my issue is

Showing 5 out of 19 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From amp123dime on Troubleshot a lot. not sure what my issue is

Hi, So my 1994 mercury sable 3.0L engine just stopped driving down the highway. Got it home. Assumed fuel pump was bad. Replaced fuel pump (it was clearly bad) & the Powertrain control module (clearly fried). Still wouldn't start. Bought a new distributor and replaced. Had Autozone check the ignition coil, and test the ignition control module. They tested like they were suppose to within range. Replaced the distributor cap spark plugs and spark plug wires.

Just for reference also replaced fuel filter, thermostat, water pump, power steering pump, battery all within a month prior to this issue occuring as well.

Im determined to fix this just don't know what else would prevent the engine from firing up

Response From Hammer Time



Well, if you keep throwing parts at it the way you have been you may eventually hit it and then you may waste a lot more money too.

Here's the way it is done.


All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From nickwarner

What was the fuel pressure on your "fried" pump? What was the voltage at its connector? What was the ohm reading of its ground circuit? If the PCM was a suspect, what was the criteria for condemning it? If these parts were both bad at the exact same time it would be the first I've seen.

Response From amp123dime

Also tested that it had fuel pressure. So its for sure getting fuel

Response From amp123dime

Not getting a spark. The rotor turns. I guess the next step is to find someone with a scan tool and check the computer codes. Not sure what else it could be. Unless the autozone tests of the ignition control module and ignition coil were misleading me and one of them is bad.

Response From amp123dime Top Rated Answer

Also wasnt just throwing parts at it. tested the fuel pump by jumping power to it to determine it was bad. The Powertrain control module you could smell the fried electrical and actually broke it open and saw the burnt relays. Then it was a matter of why it wasn't getting spark when I had done a tune-up earlier in the month. Replaced the distributor because after checking the ignition control module and ignition coil. They really wasn't much else left but the pick up coil. Buying a new distributor was much easier than changing out the pick up coil. Plus the distributor gear was worn anyhow.

Response From Hammer Time

You keep trying to justify changing all these parts that didn't fix anything and you still refuse to follow the exact instructions given so you're going to be looking for this problem for a long time.

We deal with guys like you that think they have all the shortcuts and don't test the way we ask all the time. I don't plan on riding your merry-go-round.

Response From nickwarner

Testing fuel pressure doesn't mean you have fuel, it means you have the potential for it IF the pcm triggers the injectors to deliver it and the injectors are capable of delivering the said fuel into the intake. Along with that you have to have sufficient vacuum to draw it into the cylinder and then fire it only if you have the correct compression and spark at the correct time. Checking the pressure was a good idea, but I see no mention of a test of injector pulse with a noid light. You could be condemning an ignition part because it wasn't triggered by the PCM to create a spark due to lack of signal from a crank sensor. Thats why we test the way we do and in the order we do. When you bill by flat rate you have to be efficient with your time. We are efficient and doing it our way saves you time and money. We are the pros you are trying not to take your car to. We are giving you the knowledge to do this yourself for free. Even Houdini wouldn't show you where the rabbit goes.

Response From Hammer Time

Also tested that it had fuel pressure. So its for sure getting fuel


I don't recall seeing a fuel pressure reading.

Response From amp123dime

I appreciate the responses. By no means am I a professional mechanic. The cost of a professional mechanic to solve for this is more than the cars value. I appreciate the FREE advice :) Fuel pressure aside. Bottom line is I am not getting a spark I have 12volts constant on both terminals of the ignition coil. One of the terminals should pulse. Other than the ignition control module what would prevent the ignition coil from pulsing ?

Response From Hammer Time

OK, you just said in a nutshell what i have believed to be true all along. You're blowing off our instructions, taking your own route and lieing about the results.


I don't have time to be wasted like this. If you can't or won't follow instructions, fix it yourself. There are other people that need help that will.

Response From amp123dime

WOW,, I didn't lie about anything. If you don't want to help that is OK. you don't have to. What specific instruction did I not follow ? Testing the fuel pressure ? I don't see a need for that when my current issue I am hoping to solve is why I am not getting a spark. Can't ignite fuel without a spark

Response From Hammer Time

I gave you a specific list of tests and you blew them off.

You haven't proven you have fuel pressure, you haven't proven you have injector pulse, You haven't even proven you have power supply to anything. There's nothing harder to do that try to help someone that thinks he knows more than he does.

You're on your own.

Response From amp123dime

Well hammer time if you get off the merry go round. Thats OK. I know I have fuel pressure because before I changed the fuel pump I pushed the pin where you attach the pressure gauge and no fuel came out. After changing the fuel pump I pushed that same pin and fuel shot out about 10 feet. Not the best method but didn't have access to a fuel pressure gauge and it worked. Not testing anything else related to fuel pressure because.. I HAVE NO SPARK

Response From Hammer Time

Gee, i wish I was as smart as you. Maybe you should work for Autozone. You would fit right in there.

Response From Discretesignals

Just to let you know. If you test for injector pulse and you have it, that tells you:

*The ignition module has power and ground
*The hall effect sensor in the distributor is producing a digital position signal to the ignition module.

If you have no trigger at the coil ground circuit and your PIPs going out, you can pretty much conclude the ignition module transistor circuitry died.

All ya had to do was answer those simple questions that was provided and there wouldn't have been so much heart ache. Good luck.

Response From Discretesignals

If you test for injector pulse as HT stated, that would tell you if the ignition module is sending a PIP signal to the engine controller. That helps to know because it eliminates a lot of things.

Response From amp123dime

Also every part I changed did Fix something that was wrong. The parts I changed weren't expensive and were needed. The other parts I have not changed related to not sparking are the ignition coil and ignition control module. Haven't changed those because I am not sure their is something wrong with those parts

Response From amp123dime

The fuel pump was bad. the screen inside was gone and the teeth on the gears in the fuel pump were shot. Also one of the wires attached to the pump didn't have a solid connection. The power control module was definately fried you could smell the burnt electrical. And there was a burnt hole in the control board of the power control module.

did the spark plug test and its not getting a spark. at all. Had my mechanic friend bring his voltage meter and tested that everything was within range. I was told at the auto parts store that coil should pulse. I am getting 12 volts on both of the posts of the ignition coil. Leading us to believe the ignition control module is bad. Even though it tested fine at the auto parts store.

67 mercury cougar 390 hard to start

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Question From dave 1967 on 67 mercury cougar 390 hard to start

my 67 cougar has a 390 with a holly 750 and it was running fine until halfway through last year when it just seamed really hard to start almost like it was fludding itself. when i got it to start by use of jumper cables it would run fine then i would drive it for about a mile to work shut it off then try to start it but it would crank over very hard like it had a dead battery but still had 13 volts. now i try changing the carb to a edelbrock but same thing happened I also changed the fuel pump,points distributer,coil,altenator,voltage regulator. the stupid thing is i had the mufflers change to bottles and thats when it started happening it can't be from lack of back pressure can it? . maybe the starter has to much resistence or the cable going to it?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Dave; Does this present itself when the engine is cold? Or, just when hot? This doesn't sound like a carburetion problem and definitely not an exhaust problem. If it does it mainly when hot, then I'd look at a few things:
1) Ignition timing. If over-advanced, will cause a starting issue. Disconnect the coil wire and see how it cranks.
2) Have the battery load tested. Check the cables; The one going from the solenoid to the battery, solenoid to the starter, and the ground cable to the engine block.
The 390 takes a lot of amperage to turn that baby over. If all the above is okay, then have the starter draw tested (in the vehicle). Another consideration; If you are running headers, it's possible that you are getting too much heat transfer from the headers to the starter. You can buy heat sheilds for that purpose.

Response From dave 1967

Thanks for all the good tips will try them,but might be a bit slow no heat in the old garage lol. The car most of the time will start when cold but if you even touch the gas seems like it just floods, it has electronic choke so can't see that being an issue. it'll just fire once then keep crankin till the battery drains, tried three different batterys. When it's hot yes it does seem to be the worst crankin reallllly slow then stops, crank to much and the fn solinoid starts to smoke. Can't remember how to test the cables from the battery, probably the best bet seeing how they put the battery in the trunk!. The timing i did to spec when i change the distributer, then again when i purchased the car i was told it had 428 gt heads from a gt grand torino and the matching 4 speed toploader. think the ignition timing might be different? To draw test the battery how does that work again I do have a multimeter and a extra pair of hands. ps no headers hard enough changeing plugs.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Even though it's an electric choke, it could be adjusted too rich. Also, the choke pull-off, which is vacuum operated, may not be working. The choke should open about an 1/8" as soon as the engine starts. With the engine cold, check the tension on the choke butterfly. It should be just enough to hold it closed. If not, loosen the three screws on the black cover and rotate it accordingly.
The timing will have to be done, really, hit or miss. You can start at specs, which is probably around 6 degrees BTDC. You can advance the timing a degree or two at a time until it pings under a light load, then back off a degree or two until the ping is gone and your starting problem is gone. But, you can tell if it is timing by disconnecting the coil wire when it acts up. If it cranks over okay with the coil wire disconnected, then it is over advanced. Retard the timing until it will start okay. By retarding the timing, you will lose some performance, but overall, it's worth it.
If it is timing that is causing your problem, that is caused by pre-ignition. You want to do whatever you can to lower the combustion temperature. Highest octane fuel available will help. (the higher the octane, the cooler it burns..sounds backwards, huh?) Make sure the point dwell is correct. Every two degrees of dwell will change the timing one degree. Over advanced timing will just add to the problem. Cooling system is critical. You are running a big block in a very tight space. Keep that sucker cool.
Another heat getter is a lean condition. Make sure that the air/fuel mixture is correct. A lean condition can cause heat which adds to the pre-ignition problem. Takes more spark to fire a lean mix.

Response From dave 1967

Thanks Very good tips and I will check all of them, it just doesn't make sense that one day out the 60 i drove it that year it decided to do this without changing anything

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a side note:

Battery cables probably have been replaced over the ions with this. Now that copper is so expensive they sell a lot of junk out there that doesn't carry the amps well. Even back then we were upping the gauge (or lowering the #) to #1 gauge fine strand for high compression monster motors like that.

"Solenoid smoking" !! There's another item that might have been replaced for junk sold now. Orig would have been better metals. NAPA is pretty good at getting OE rated stuff or try marine duty stuff for things like that.

Neat old car and remember them pretty well. More engine than the body could handle!

T

Response From dave 1967

good point thank you , my old 5.0L Ranger whent through a solenoid every time after sitting through a winter, I'll have find a heavy duty one regardles. Probably should get the battery back in front will take some messing with then buy new cables

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Battery back to the front"

Where did you put it? I know you don't need to take space or have the extra weight up front but the length of cable matters as well and gauge matters all the more.

Also note: The batteries made for closed quarters should have vents to outside air - some that came that way (not this car) had tubes to hook up and the battery case was made for that. Dunno if gel cells use any venting or need any if you go that way??

T

Response From dave 1967 Top Rated Answer

I agree with you the battery should be in the front which is the safest (not sitting by the gas tank or leaking fumes in the inside of the car) The battery was in the trunk when i bought it. The only reason I can see why, is they mounted a mallory ignition coil in the spot where the battery was which is not working Or the battery tray was rotted out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Somewhat off the topic:

May I suggest you just get the OE distributor + points right on target and forget ign beef up junk. Granted - these suckers were newer when I was driving them - a 1967 as yours and the 68 427 "R" code GTE (fastest anything I've ever been in) with plain points that would tear the a$$ off of anything! Faster from zero to choke on your own tongue from the "G" force of acceleration than should have been street legal from the factory!

Side note: That 68 Cougar XR7-GTE 427 auto (factory trick C-6) no less lied right on factory chromed air cleaner boasting 390HP - found later that Ford purposely lied and it was more like 540 BHP!! Now I know why my eyes are still stuck to the back of my head!

Owned a 69 Lincoln - first high compression 460 and prior owner went nuts with ignition garbage to improve fuel economy with funky crap all over the place. Threw all that junk out and it was fine for the 14 or more years I owned it - same MPGs and ran better!

These can do just fine with points as they aren't trying to do motorcycle RPMs but rather stump pulling torque. The only improvement prior to common use of electronic ignitions was the dual point job which only really tricked the spark to increase duration - aftermarket for many sold by Accel. Mopar made some OE back when I think.

The problem was so few had the patience to just set the points right and check periodically - they worked fine,

T

Ps: I think Ford made the first electronic ignition as an option and called it "Perma Tune" in the mid 1960s......

Response From dave 1967

I didn't think i would run in to a ford fan, finally. The distributer I Had bought was a remanufactured with points. My knowledge with the muscle car era sucks. As a (young) licensed auto body technician I love the lines on this cougar, different than the mustang which is still everywhere up here.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Excellent on the dist! A good reman should be all set to go and perfect - just set timing.

Know that when new this high compression big block required premium fuel. The regular of the day was better than what's sold as premium today and low octane works against the starter some if there's the slightest tendency to fire early.

You can get an idea of what better cables and high amp battery would behave like using quality jumper cables now. Only original cable left would be from solenoid to starter then.

Just notes: Copper is the best conductor of electricity. The finer the strands the more contact it will make at the crimped on ends even if factory done. Fine strands don't tend to break inside as much either and there is some constant motion between solenoid and starter on this type. Bat to ground moves some too. It's kinds like the rating of household cord for a vacuum cleaner is super fine strand vs that for a lamp - really!

Copper got pricey and lead got hit for use in the cable ends. It was better but required some periodic maint too. Replacements might have used a different metal for everything in the cable that just might not have the ability.

The starter is happy with a good strong source to it. It actually get VERY hot when low amps are delivered and can hurt it. Hence almost everything uses a spring loaded solenoid to "flutter" when inadequate to prevent that. The better the battery and cable the better. This and all starter can be taken apart and brushes to contacts cleaned up. Older than this you could put them in a lathe! Ok - nuff on old :-)

To add to high compression issues then was lead in fuel. Now the high fuel use of even unleaded can make compression even higher with carbon build up making even more work for the starter and sometimes near unstoppable ping/knock when under some load. Usually a good hard run would clear that out.

Just fun from the good ole days,

T

Response From dave 1967

good to know thanks I did double check point gap with a feeler guage and it said it was good. Maybe you can help me choose an after market clutch and posi is there any you can recomend. My clutch is shot and the pinion bearing is worn out, I can wiggle the shaft like 3mm sorry 1/8 don't Know if you do metric. P.S. sorry just read Way2old's message on asking Questions but it took me awhile to find a good site.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

TMK - Cougar didn't offer a standard trans! Anything is possible but bet it's to a Mustang set up.

No matter - I'd suggest new stuff - see what available and for t-out bearing try to get US or Canadian made bearing.

What's with the pinion? I simply don't know what rear differential this would have so you'll have to look. If it's what's called the removable carrier type there's two pinion shaft bearings in there and a "crush" washer that I just saw ONE of in my collection of crap the other day! No joke!

If you would - please make the pinion bearing thing a separate thread. If you dunno what type rear end it is try taking a pic and I should be able to look it up. Either that or just look for a tag on it if still there,

T