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Best Selling Genuine Chevrolet Ignition Coils

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ACDelco
2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-1626F05    W0133-2103417  New

Qty:
$94.58
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2004 - Chevrolet Monte Carlo Supercharged
ACDelco
2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-1626F05    W0133-2103417  New

Qty:
$94.58
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2004 - Chevrolet Monte Carlo Supercharged
ACDelco
2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-1626F05    W0133-2103417  New

Qty:
$94.58
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2004 - Chevrolet Monte Carlo Supercharged
ACDelco
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Ignition Coil 4 Cyl 2.2L ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Chevrolet Lumina L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2190
ACDelco
1993 Chevrolet Lumina Ignition Coil 4 Cyl 2.2L ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Chevrolet Lumina L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2190
ACDelco
2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-1626F05    W0133-2103417  New

Qty:
$94.58
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2004 - Chevrolet Monte Carlo Supercharged
ACDelco
2005 Chevrolet Impala Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 3.4L ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Chevrolet Impala V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
WSO
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 5.3L WSO

P311-0D77B63    W0133-1933228  New

Qty:
$62.27
WSO Ignition Coil
  • with Melco/ Mitsubishi Ignition - Square Shaped
Brand: WSO
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 5.3L ACDelco

P311-45AF6BA    W0133-1933228  New

Qty:
$133.78
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Melco/ Mitsubishi Ignition - Square Shaped
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
Prenco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Ignition Coil 8 Cyl 5.3L Prenco

P311-1628AC7    W0133-1933228  New

Qty:
$83.43
Prenco Ignition Coil
  • with Melco/ Mitsubishi Ignition - Square Shaped
Brand: Prenco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Ignition Coil Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 Chevrolet s10 pickup sparking at ignition coil

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From Nastwold3 on 1999 Chevrolet s10 pickup sparking at ignition coil

1999
Chevrolet
s10 pickup 4x4 4.3 liter V6 Vortek,
179,000 miles

It will start just fine but when I give it any gas it sparks at the ignition coil and stalls out. It started as I was driving home in the rain. It started to stall every time I gave it gas, and when I got it home it quit. the next morning it would start but I get intermittent sparks and it stalls every time it sparks, also if I give it gas it sparks violently and stalls out.

I replaced the rotor and distributor cap, no change.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know why you would change the distributor cap when you saw sparks at the coil. The coil is cracked, replace it. Make sure you wires are in good shape at the same time.

Response From Nastwold3

The coil is brand new and so are the wires, no crak in the coil at all.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If you are seeing arcing at the coil tower, the coil is cracked or the coil wire is open.

Now, if what you are saying is that your testing for spark at the coil and getting it but not at the plugs, then you have a cap or rotor problem.

Response From Nastwold3

Is it possible it is a timing issue with the crank sensor?

Response From Hammer Time

No

No Spark, Ignition Coils OK. 93 Chev Lumina

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From creeze on No Spark, Ignition Coils OK. 93 Chev Lumina

I have a 93 Chevrolet Lumina (3.1L V6), and I'm getting no spark. I checked the spark plug wires (the old screwdriver trick), and I got nothing. I checked the ignition coils (FREAKIN HEADACHE TO GET TO THOSE THINGS), with 3 different multimeters (one of them by a guy at O'Reilly's), and they all read fine, so it's not the coils.

My car cranks but it won't start. Every now and then when I try to crank it, it just clicks, and it takes about 4 or 5 times to get it to crank again. The crank is healthy when it finally happens, the battery is fine as well, no loose connections there. What else could it be?

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Sounds like you've got a couple of things going on. one being a bad starter.

Spark should really be tested with a spark tester but you gotta work with what you got.....

Depending on what tools you have, you should look at the crank sensor and make sure the module is getting a signal.....

On thing you could check that I've seen go wrong before. The small two wire harness coming from the crank sensor going to the module will get oil in it and take the insulation off the wires & short out.

Those wires are a twisted pair & need to be twisted for shielding. If you do any repairs to the harness make sure they get twisted..........

Response From creeze

You sure it's a bad starter and not a short somewhere? Like I said, every few tries, it will crank, so it couldn't be completely bad. When it does crank, it's a really healthy crank.

The crank sensor with the oil sounds possible, because my engine has a couple leaks (it's pretty messy in there, got it from someone who didn't take care of it at all). I'll take out my manual and see if I can find that. If there is oil, it's likely the module is already shorted and needs to be replaced, correct?

Response From Sidom

With the starter it sounds like there is a dead spot. That is the classic sign, turn the key and nothing and then it starts. After it gets bad enough, then the starter need to get a rap on it before it will turn over.

My data base is down at the moment so I'm going off memory but I believe that sensor is the 2 wire a/c pulse generator type. If it has 3 wires then it's a hall effect sensor with a supplied 5v reference.
The wires shorting on a a/c type won't hurt the module. It's very low voltage but it does take out the signal. No signal, no start. It's very possible the module is bad, that was a common problem on those as well but 1st you have to make sure there is a good signal 1st.

I use a scope to check the signal and really haven't used anything else. If someone has a good way of checking the signal integrity with a voltmeter or something else maybe they'll jump in.

As far as the wires shorting, that is easy. Just take the loom off & look at the wires, if thats the problem it would obvious. Or even easier, disconnect the harness from the module & sensor, get an ohm meter & probe both ends of the connecter. It should read open, any continuity and the wires are shorted...........

99 S10 dies driving/ power loss

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mtm155 on 99 S10 dies driving/ power loss

1999
Chevrolet
S10
2.2
153xxx

I recenlty got my s10 up and running again, but it seems ever since i have had the same problem. at first the truck would go great and die when u began to slow down or if you let off the gas while accelerating. it has always seemed like it hasnt had the power it should and now its much worse. after it warms up a little, the truck continues to die. it can happen sitting in a drive thru, or going 60 down the ighway, its become very random now. ive replaced fuel pump, pulgs, plug wires, battery, map sensor, and one of the ignition coils. ive run out of ideas and was hoping someone may have had the same problem and was able to get the issue fixed. thanks so much for your time and God Bless!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Have you checked it for stored codes?

1999 Chevy Cavalier misfiring/missing

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From alsadiqaa on 1999 Chevy Cavalier misfiring/missing

1999
Chevrolet
Cavalier
Engine 2.4L Z24
~140,000 miles

-Current status: Car will not start (de de de de noise)

- Background info: Engine light turned on while on the highway, as I am stopping the car started making noises of missing and engine was vigorously shaking and appeared misfiring.

- What have I done? there was barely engine oil. I added engine oil, the engine however appeared to misfire. Upon electrical diagnosis the code translated into misfiring of cylinder#1.

I opened the engine cover and changed the spark plugs (2 were oily) and engine light went off. I drove the car as I approached 55mph the whole problem of misfiring and missing came again, engine light back on.

I changed the ignition coils (set of 2 packs, each fire to 2 cylinders). I turned the car on, the engine produces noise accompanied by the exhaust white smoking. The engine oil level stick reveal way above the full level (despite the fact there were only 4 quarts)

I drained the oil, cleaned spark plugs as appeared oily (only one) and changed the Ignition Coil On Plug Boot and put back 3.5 quart of oil, now stick read about the full level. However, now the car will not start. car will not start (de de de de noise)

Images can be provided upon request.

Thank you

Response From Hammer Time


What have I done? there was barely engine oil. I added engine oil


I changed the ignition coils (set of 2 packs, each fire to 2 cylinders). I turned the car on, the engine produces noise accompanied by the exhaust white smoking. The engine oil level stick reveal way above the full level (despite the fact there were only 4 quarts)


How do you know that? You hadn't changed the oil yet.

Sounds like you need to take a complete compression test.

Response From alsadiqaa

I checked the oil stick after I pulled over and there was almost none.

I have never done compression test, I will do it tomorrow morning and keep updating this thread. Thank you for your input. +1

Response From Hammer Time

I know you said there was no oil but then you said you added some and then you said it was way overfull but you knew there was only 4 quarts in it. How do you know there was only 4 quarts if you hadn't changed it yet?

Response From alsadiqaa

I see what you are asking.

it was 10 days ago, when the car stopped and had no oil at all. Here next to the gas station, the oil and filter were changed.

Yesterday after I replaced the ignition coils, then saw the exhaust smoking white, and engine making some noise I suspected fluid leak or wet sparks, I checked the oil stick which read way too high, so I drained it and it was only four quarts. then I dried the spark plugs (new) and put new ignition coil-On Plug Boot. put the oil back in. and now doesn't start! I rechecked having the spark plugs in place correctly and they were.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Does the oil smell like gasoline?

Response From alsadiqaa

I trust my sense of smell, first I smelled the container where I drained the oil, and it has some smell of gas to it (new container not used before).

I then smelled the dipstick and it has similar smell. It is not very odorous but I am not highly positive as I am not used to smelling the oil vs gas. But yes I smelled something similar to gas in the dipstick, what does this mean?

Response From Discretesignals

You can also hold a lighter up to the end of the dipstick with oil on it. If the flame grows, there is a good bet raw fuel is finding its way into your crankcase. Just don't hold the lighter up to the end of the dipstick tube...LOL

Response From alsadiqaa

Negative for flame, no reaction of both the dipstick or the container I used to drain the oil into. (just checked)

Only if it turn out to be serious engine problem that is expensive to fix then I will make sure I hold my lighter and my gas right up that engine ^_^