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honda accord Parts

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Mevotech
1991 Honda Accord Alignment Camber Kit - Front Mevotech

P311-25123E3    New

Qty:
$23.71
Mevotech Alignment Camber Kit  Front
  • Product Attributes:
    • X-Factor: Camber Adjustable Unit Replaces Oe Non-adjustable Bushings
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Honda Accord Front
Magnaflow
Qty:
$73.83
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter  Rear
  • Conv Univ 2.00 Rear
  • Certification Level : TLEV OE SPEC
  • 2in. Universal California OBDII Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Body Length: 9
    • Body Width: 6.5
    • California Air Resources Board Approved: Yes
    • Catalytic Converter Body Material: Stainless
    • Catalytic Converter Overall Length: 13
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2
    • Material: Stainless
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2
    • Recommended Use: Converter
    • Series: California
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Universal Or Specific Fit: Universal
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1997 - Honda Accord L 2156 - Rear
Magnaflow
Qty:
$73.83
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter  Rear
  • Conv Univ 2.00 Rear
  • Certification Level : TLEV OE Spec
  • 2in. Universal California OBDII Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Body Length: 9
    • Body Width: 6.5
    • California Air Resources Board Approved: Yes
    • Catalytic Converter Body Material: Stainless
    • Catalytic Converter Overall Length: 13
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2
    • Material: Stainless
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2
    • Recommended Use: Converter
    • Series: California
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Universal Or Specific Fit: Universal
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - Honda Accord L 2156 - Rear
Beck Arnley
Qty:
$13.00
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Right
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position Submodel
2004 - Honda Accord L 2354 - Rear Right DX
Beck Arnley
Qty:
$13.00
Beck Arnley Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder  Rear Left
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2005 - Honda Accord L 2354 - Rear Left
Beck Arnley
Qty:
$63.43
Beck Arnley Engine Mount  Rear
  • Hydraulic, W/O Vacuum port
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2006 - Honda Accord V 2997 - Rear
Beck Arnley
Qty:
$63.43
Beck Arnley Engine Mount  Rear
  • Hydraulic
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position Transmission
2004 - Honda Accord V 2977 - Rear Automatic
Magnaflow
Qty:
$129.45
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter  Front
  • Conv Univ 2.00 Front
  • Certification Level : TLEV OE Spec
  • 2in. Universal California OBDII Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Body Length: 9
    • Body Width: 6.5
    • California Air Resources Board Approved: Yes
    • Catalytic Converter Body Material: Stainless
    • Catalytic Converter Overall Length: 13
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2
    • Material: Stainless
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2
    • Recommended Use: Converter
    • Series: California
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Universal Or Specific Fit: Universal
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1997 - Honda Accord L 2156 - Front
Magnaflow
Qty:
$129.45
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter  Front
  • Conv Univ 2.00 Front
  • Certification Level : TLEV
  • 2in. Universal California OBDII Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Body Length: 9
    • Body Width: 6.5
    • California Air Resources Board Approved: Yes
    • Catalytic Converter Body Material: Stainless
    • Catalytic Converter Overall Length: 13
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2
    • Material: Stainless
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2
    • Recommended Use: Converter
    • Series: California
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Universal Or Specific Fit: Universal
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - Honda Accord L 2156 - Front
Magnaflow
Qty:
$129.45
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter  Front
  • Conv Univ 2.00 Front
  • Certification Level : TLEV OE SPEC
  • 2in. Universal California OBDII Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Body Length: 9
    • Body Width: 6.5
    • California Air Resources Board Approved: Yes
    • Catalytic Converter Body Material: Stainless
    • Catalytic Converter Overall Length: 13
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2
    • Material: Stainless
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2
    • Recommended Use: Converter
    • Series: California
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Universal Or Specific Fit: Universal
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - Honda Accord L 2156 - Front

Showing 1 - 10 of 36,461 Products.


Latest Honda Accord Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

91 honda accord Problems

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From brandon81 on 91 honda accord Problems

I have some problems with my accord its a 91 accord ex-r, about 2 months ago after starting my car (it starts no problem) when idling in park or nuteral the engine when up to 2500 then down to 1000 up and down. when in drive it was fine. this weekend it started to do in drive and my spedometer went to 0 while driving and then came back. the rpm gage moved correctly, the engine light has been on since i got the car 3 years ago do to something to do with the emissions. i have not lost any power and the car starts all the time

I found that the speedometer was due to speed senser, i read the codes i got 2,8,5,3

2 - vehicle speed pulser (VSS)
8 - ignition coil signal
5 - map
3 - map

i changed the cotrol box and the map senser (i beleive, if it is connected to the control box on the fire wall) and read the codes and only 5 came up and it was doing the same idling thing, the vss did not come up because i did not test drive


Need help

Response From PTEC Top Rated Answer

TPS, or adjust idle.

1997 Honda Accord oil leak with photo

Showing 3 out of 15 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From mercuryman on 1997 Honda Accord oil leak with photo

I have a 1997 Honda Accord 4 cylinder that leaks oil from top of engine.I have a photo of part, but am not sure what it is?

Can someone tell me what the part is, and why it leaks oil, and what is the cause.


Response From Discretesignals

You need to replace the VTEC solenoid assembly. The oil is being pushed up through the wire and into the connector. It could also push oil up into the ECU which would be a bad thing.


Response From mercuryman Top Rated Answer

You need to replace the VTEC solenoid assembly. The oil is being pushed up through the wire and into the connector. It could also push oil up into the ECU which would be a bad thing.

My 1997 Honda Accord solonoid gasket is leaking more oil now then before (Quart a day) Can I use a gasket sealer? I am getting a new car in 2 months. I need a quick fix. Can I disconnect the adapter


Response From MarineGrunt

A gasket sealer won't hold that oil in there. You're better off fixing it right. You'll end up spending more adding a quart of oil everyday over the course of two months than if you just bought the part. Plus, you'll make that money back once you sell the car. If you don't fix it plan on getting next to nothing for it.

Might as well take a shot at a salvage yard since you don't plan on keeping the car. You can pick up a used one online for about $60. I don't like buying used parts online but it would be better than rigging it.

Response From mercuryman

A gasket sealer won't hold that oil in there. You're better off fixing it right. You'll end up spending more adding a quart of oil everyday over the course of two months than if you just bought the part. Plus, you'll make that money back once you sell the car. If you don't fix it plan on getting next to nothing for it.

My son bought a part on Ebay, but it was wrong part. There are 2 different valves.One has a screw in it, and the other has adapter.

Response From MarineGrunt

Look for a part number off of the old part and make sure it matches up with the new before purchasing one. You might be better off going to a salvage yard with part in hand. That's the bad thing about ordering off of the net. It's nice to be able to have both parts in hand to check it out. I've always wondered why they have to make parts look so similar but have something like a bolt hole be in a different spot. One must be for a 6 cylinder and the other a 4 cylinder. I'd just relist the item on ebay and hopefully you'll get your money back.

Response From mercuryman

ok Thanks for all the advice. I will be going up to visit my son this weekend, and will check out the oil leak.
He put in a oil leak stopper last night. He just uses the car to get to work.

Response From nickwarner

ok Thanks for all the advice. I will be going up to visit my son this weekend, and will check out the oil leak.
He put in a oil leak stopper last night. He just uses the car to get to work.

I guess he doesn't plan on getting to work for long with this car or any other one he touches. The only think leak stoppers stop is everything but the leak. So he's going to just sell the car soon? I'm going to venture a guess he has no intent on telling the next guy about the garbage he unleashed on the bearings over a simple solenoid and this is going to be the next guy's money pit not from the solenoid but the damage the sealer did. Never ever ever ever ever use something from a can to stop a leak. If that crap worked without doing severe and expensive damage down the road there wouldn't be parts stores, just stores with a shelf of cans on them and all mechanics would be relaxing on unemployment.

Response From mercuryman

I am going to change the oil, and replace the solenoid, but he is buying another car on Sunday, so I can take my time on fixing the Honda, then will sell it.

Response From nickwarner

Just make sure the next guy knows what got done to it. I hate seeing people come to my shop with something that got the stop leak dumped in it instead of parts. They accuse me of trying to rob them when I give them the estimate and can't guarantee them that nothing else will leak right away or their engine won't blow because I can't tell what has or hasn't been cobbled. If some guy behind a parts counter suggested it, please send me his name and address and I will put him on the list of people I will haunt like Patrick Swayze when I am dead in the worst way. Stop leak is a pass-the-buck to screw the next guy, plain and simple.

Dumping that contaminated oil is the best thing possible right now, and I'm glad you will have the time to give this its due diligence. Maybe you'll even keep it for yourself. They aren't a bad car if you aren't too terribly tall.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

So how do you really feel Nick? -- T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not much hope in those magic in a can. Hope it doesn't destroy any any chances of a real tix and might!

T

Response From MarineGrunt

Like Tom said, those leak stop products are nothing but trouble. They make it sound like it's a cure all but they are just trying to sell a product. Most of the time it won't stop the leak, but if it does, it can also clog up other small passageways leading to more issues. Not saying it will for sure but it's definitely a possibility. I'm not a professional mechanic like the other guys here but I know they've seen plenty of vehicles where that stuff was added and it either didn't work or they ended up costing the owner more money in the long run.

What's done is done though. I'd just hate to see your son lose any money on the car when he goes to sell it. I think his best bet now is to get the right part and flush the heck out of the system. The pros here can give you detailed information on what to do. I would think changing the oil a couple of times after driving 50 miles or so each time will take care of it. Maybe adding a little diesel will help clean it up too. Don't go doing that until the pros here chime in. They can let you what the best course of action to take.

Look at the people who buy cars that have some mechanical issues. They do so in order to put a few bucks into it so they can sell it and make a profit. If you can do the work it's almost always fixing all of the issues, especially if they're minor, before selling a car. You might have to spend a little money upfront but will more than likely get it back and then some. If your son puts a little money into it now that will not only allow him to recover that money when it sells but will more than likely allow him to make a larger profit.

Response From mercuryman

Thanks. Can I just try replacing the O-ring gasket, or the other gasket in the Vtec unit before getting the whole thing.

Can I take a chance with a Vtec unit from the junk yard?

Response From Discretesignals

Thanks. Can I just try replacing the O-ring gasket, or the other gasket in the Vtec unit before getting the whole thing.

You have to replace the solenoid assembly. The solenoid is leaking internally.

Can I take a chance with a Vtec unit from the junk yard?

That is your call. You could end up with the same problem or a valve that doesn't work though.

96 Honda Accord Crankshaft Pulley and Crankshaft Damaged?

Showing 6 out of 31 Posts | Show 25 Hidden Posts
Question From Neptun3 on 96 Honda Accord Crankshaft Pulley and Crankshaft Damaged?

Hello everyone, so I was driving the other day and both my alternator and power steering belts popped off. I checked under the hood to see what the problem was and I noticed that the pulley which uses both belts was loose. I tightened it and put the belts back on, started the car and the belts popped off again. So then I unscrewed the pulley to check it out and saw that a small part of the teeth got worn out and therefore wouldn't stay properly on the crankshaft. I also looked under the car and saw that the part where it connects to on the crankshaft was a little worn out as well.

Pic of Pulley:



Pulley up close:



Crankshaft (Where the pulley connects to):



Is there anyway to fix this? Would perhaps getting a new pulley be sufficient to preventing it from getting loose and the belts from popping off again?

Thanks.

Response From nickwarner

That part is your harmonic balancer. It dampens vibrations from your running engine. If you run a bad one long enough the crankshaft can physically snap in two. At minimum it will hammer apart your rod and main bearings which would require an overhaul to repair.

Get a new balancer and make sure the crankshaft splines are OK. Cranks are made of a harder steel than the balancer so it should likely be alright. Those splines didn't fail on their own, so closely inspect the crank pulley threads to be sure they are ok along with the bolt. Running it loose will wreck it. Repair any threads you find damaged, get a new bolt of the identical size and grade, and put some blue Loctite on it when you install it. I would also replace the keyway on the crank. Its pretty beat up from getting loose.

Response From Neptun3

Thanks guys for the responses. I really appreciate it. How would I go about removing the keyway on the crank?

Response From Hammer Time

Just tap it out with a screwdriver and small hammer. It's pushed into a groove tightly.

Response From Discretesignals

That key is also used by the timing belt crank sprocket.

Response From Hammer Time

Didn't realize that. that means the timing belt and crank gear have to be removed first.

Response From Discretesignals

Going to have a good ole time getting the sprocket off. It has to slide over the bad part of the key. You'll probably have to file the bad spot off, so you get the sprocket over it.


You should replace the crankshaft pulley bolt too since it has been chucking around. Make sure the bolt is tightened to 183 ft/lbs. Don't run the engine anymore until you fix that. Don't try to rig it with duct tape or JB weld. Fix it right the first time using the right parts.

Your lucky the key didn't shear at the belt sprocket or you would be ripping the head off.

Response From nickwarner

This would be the ideal time to change your timing belt, idlers, tensioner and water pump with a Gates kit. You'll have to take it off anyway and I'd be willing to bet its dues for service. You will need to follow the service info to the letter when you do it, as once you take the timing belt off if you turn that engine at all you WILL bend valves in the head and be facing a very very expensive problem. We can help you work your way through that if you wish, but you will need to follow our instructions to the letter if you want to be able to drive it again later. If you think this job might be over your head, you should have it towed to a competent shop.

Response From Hammer Time

I wouldn't be surprised if a substandard timing belt job is what started this whole mess. Somebody left that crank pulley loose.

Response From Discretesignals

I am very sure of that HT. You know how hard them Honda bolts are too get off. You practically need a 1" impact to get it off. I am sure a lot of DIY don't have the special tool to hold the balancer hub when you go to tighten the bolt. They think it is tight because they can't hold the crank from turning anymore with their hands or water pump pliers...LOL. Trying to put 183 ft/lbs on a bolt without the crank turning while laying on a gravel driveway has to be a mother.

Response From Neptun3

Thanks guys for the responses I really appreciate it. A timing belt job seems kinda difficult so I don't think I would be able to do it by myself and I don't have the money to take it to a shop and have it done there.

I tried pulling the woodruff key out with vice grips using all of my strength and it's not coming out. However, when I put the pulley onto the key it seats correctly so is it possible that I'm just not tightening the bolt hard enough? When I tighten it at a certain point and continue tightening, the pulley and bolt move together so I really can't tighten it anymore. Do I need a special tool for tightening it to the correct torque spec (183 ft/lbs)?

Response From Hammer Time

No, that pulley and keyway were destroyed. Don't even try to put that back together that way. You will be buying an engine for sure.

Response From nickwarner

With HT on this, and yes there is a special tool to hold that still while torquing the bolt to spec.

Response From Neptun3

Hey looks like I was able to get the key out! I wasn't pulling on the right part but now it's out.

Woodruff key:



Crank pulley with no key:



So I guess all I have to do now is get a new key and harmonic balancer. Is there a specific way to lock the new key in or does it just push in and stay secure?

Response From Hammer Time

The key is supposed too remove any sort of wobble or movement in the pulley when it is slid on. If there is any wear in the slot that allows the key to move at all, then you have a serious problem with the crank shaft. If the Crank is still OK, then just make sure the hold down bolt is tightened to proper torque.

Response From Neptun3

Oh ok, is the key shaped differently on both sides? If so which side goes in first? Also, I can't seem to find the key anywhere online. I tried calling 1A Auto to see if the key came with the harmonic balancer and they said I would have to buy it separately.

Response From Hammer Time

No, you're going to have to get that from the dealer. The key will only settle in one way.

Response From Neptun3

Oh, well I just found out RockAuto sells the key with the harmonic balancer so I'm probably gonna go with that. One more thing, how do I know when it's at the correct torque spec while tightening? Thanks again for the help everyone.

Response From Hammer Time

181 foot pounds

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Neptun3 : You know it's there with a torque wrench - probably rentable if you don't care to own one,

T

Response From Discretesignals

Hope you didn't turn the crank with the key out or valve spring pressure didn't rotate the timing belt drive sprocket.

Response From Neptun3

I cannot get this bolt to tighten to 185 ft/lbs torque. At first I tightened it with a ratchet until the pulley began to move with the bolt. Then I used the honda crank pulley holder and a breaker bar to hold the pulley in place and a torque wrench to try to tighten it. I am literally using all of my strength and this thing has not turned at all. Here are some pics of how I have it set up.

Honda crank pulley holder w/ breaker bar and torque wrench:



Close up of crank pulley holder:



Why won't this bolt tighten? I put on a new harmonic balancer and woodruff key by the way.

Response From Neptun3

I think I got it on tight enough. After putting the belts back on I was able to drive the car around! While it was on I checked under the hood and noticed the harmonic balancer looked like it was shaking a little bit as it was rotating. Is it supposed to look like that while the car is running? I'll try to upload a video later when my car battery is done charging.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No. It should be as true as true gets. Is it perfectly lined up in 'plane' with belt to other pulleys? Should be.

I take it that it's moving as a wobble not up and down. IDK - can you see center part and bolt move and outer ring moving and those not? IMO there could be a defective balancer, crankshaft + balancer didn't actually mesh together properly from damage or damage to the new balancer along the way in it's installation. Hard to say right now. If crankshaft itself could be real trouble. How long it could last that way if so is a guess at best if running well now,

T

Response From Neptun3

Here's a video of the harmonic balancer while the car is running. I know the camera is kinda shaky but try to see if you can see the harmonic balancer sort of move left and right.


Response From Neptun3

I think I'm gonna just try to remove it and then tighten it again starting with the torque wrench to make sure it's on solid.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Been watching all along. Pondering this tool shown in this pic you took.....


"Harmonic Balancer" :: The center as you know is about pressed in place by that bolt. The outer metal that has the belt grooves is isolated by rubber giving those things the ability to absorb the vibrations. The tool is holding the outer part on thru the rubber to hold the center which is the crank of course.

Did that tool really torque on the outer part?

Sorry if a repeat but can you get a view while running to see if inner metal and bolt are running true and outer is not? I'd want to know if the crank is at fault or the new balancer just isn't true for whatever reason.

You video of it was inconclusive to me. Someone may have better eyes (most do) than I do and didn't really conclude it was moving too much.

Just wondering just what is or isn't just right at this point. It may be the best way to hold crank while tightening that bolt but my gut says that is not a preferred way despite that a tool to do just such is made??


Tom

Response From Neptun3 Top Rated Answer

Been watching all along. Pondering this tool shown in this pic you took.....


"Harmonic Balancer" :: The center as you know is about pressed in place by that bolt. The outer metal that has the belt grooves is isolated by rubber giving those things the ability to absorb the vibrations. The tool is holding the outer part on thru the rubber to hold the center which is the crank of course.

Did that tool really torque on the outer part?

Sorry if a repeat but can you get a view while running to see if inner metal and bolt are running true and outer is not? I'd want to know if the crank is at fault or the new balancer just isn't true for whatever reason.

You video of it was inconclusive to me. Someone may have better eyes (most do) than I do and didn't really conclude it was moving too much.

Just wondering just what is or isn't just right at this point. It may be the best way to hold crank while tightening that bolt but my gut says that is not a preferred way despite that a tool to do just such is made??


Tom

Based on the information you gave me I'm not quite actually sure what kind of video you want me to take but here's this one to view. All of these car terms are new to me so I am trying my best to follow along. If it's not what you were asking I don't mind taking another one.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Never mind videos - I want to know if crankshaft or pulley is bent........... If you can't tell the difference the job isn't for you,

T

Response From nickwarner

We can't see in the dark. If you post a vid of a part, make sure that part is actually in it and shown clearly. If you want to show a harmonic balancer then don't stand up outside your car, pull a tire and the inner fender to shoot the part you ask about. That vid was useless.

Response From Hammer Time

The key-way is destroyed from running loose. If you're real luck you may be able to replace the key-way and pulley and save it. If you're not so lucky, the crank is damaged and you're looking for an engine.
Maker sure the new key-way fits tight with no wobble. If the slot in the crank is damaged, you are looking at another engine.

(solved) wire combination for combo switch for honda accord 1984

Showing 3 out of 14 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From otta on (solved) wire combination for combo switch for honda accord 1984

hi i have honda accord 1984 and i can't find combo switch for it , wiper works fine but for low beam and high beam its not working correctly , after opening it up and trying to fix it multiple times i am unsuccessful , i am uploading a pic it shows all the wires in the plug , i am thinking of using some kind of electrical switch to turn on the lights , all i want to know what is the combo for high beam and low beam and left and right indicator , if somebody can help me it would be great ..


Response From Hammer Time

Please reduce the size of your pictures before posting them. It's made this thread impossible to read. I'm not even going to try.

Response From otta


Please reduce the size of your pictures before posting them. It's made this thread impossible to read. I'm not even going to try.

i made the pic smaller

Response From Hammer Time

Very good, thank you. Now i can read it.

Manually wiring this thing is not going to be an option for you. There are multiple circuits and they are complex. You are going to have to get your hands on a working switch somehow.

Response From Hammer Time

You need to forget about the "hot wiring" idea. It really can't be done.Turn signals share the same circuit with brake lights and the switch cancels one to use the other so that's nothing you could wire up.

Response From otta

i had a bad solder joint so i re-soldered and it fixed the problem i was facing :)

Response From Hammer Time

That was a good find.
Closing this question now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Response From otta


You need to forget about the "hot wiring" idea. It really can't be done.Turn signals share the same circuit with brake lights and the switch cancels one to use the other so that's nothing you could wire up.
ok that makes it clear so i am gonna look for replacement
thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Didn't take me long. Two types (part #s possible) available at NAPA. Bucks - over $200.


This is one of them - whole assembly.........





T

Response From otta Top Rated Answer


Didn't take me long. Two types (part #s possible) available at NAPA. Bucks - over $200.


This is one of them - whole assembly.........




th
Thanks but mine looks different from this

Response From Discretesignals

Can you take a pic of your combo switch and post it in here?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Unless I'm missing something you need this switch and have a pic suggests the part is out. Take it to a place or match it up AYOR with some web only parts place of your choice for a lower price.


Honda had what you wanted but you don't or can't pay that. I just showed one of two found in seconds for much less but not free.


You want to somehow hotwire this - fine it's a 30 year old Honda so go hack it totally with a toggle switch if you want with generic stuff for lawn and garden equipment still AYOR but fuse it.


A good hack job will still cost you most of the correct part and probably will have some other issue for hacking it up. What do you want to do, have a car or not over headlights which you must have of course?


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Why not dump the pic
and just ask where to get
Parts for a 30 year old
Honda?


Ask a Honda dealer or parts outlet,




T

Response From otta


Why not dump the pic
and just ask where to get
Parts for a 30 year old
Honda?


Ask a Honda dealer or parts outlet,
costs 300$s here and i can't afford it right now ..