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Best Selling Genuine Oldsmobile Heater Cores

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TYC
1992 Oldsmobile 88 HVAC Heater Core TYC

P311-46F2E6F    W0133-1621035  New

Qty:
$92.63
TYC HVAC Heater Core
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Oldsmobile 88
TYC
1991 Oldsmobile Delta 88 HVAC Heater Core TYC

P311-46F2E6F    W0133-1621035  New

Qty:
$92.63
TYC HVAC Heater Core
  • 64mm From Center of Inlet Pipe to Center of Outlet Pipe
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Oldsmobile Delta 88
Metrix
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-556498B    W0133-1619360  New

Qty:
$65.32
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Metrix
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-231BE66    W0133-1683943  New

Qty:
$65.98
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Oldsmobile Intrigue
ACDelco
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada HVAC Heater Core ACDelco

P311-4EB75F3    W0133-1619360  New

Qty:
$214.18
ACDelco HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Metrix
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-231BE66    W0133-1683943  New

Qty:
$65.98
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
  • with Manual A/C Controls (RPO C60)
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Oldsmobile Intrigue
APDI
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-16181A2    9010187  New

60055 , 98496 , 90212 , 398310 , 398210 , 3058622 , 96012 , 94496 , 8210

Qty:
$35.68
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Height (in): 6-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1982 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais
APDI
1985 Oldsmobile Firenza HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-16181A2    9010187  New

60055 , 98496 , 90212 , 398310 , 398210 , 3058622 , 96012 , 94496 , 8210

Qty:
$35.68
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • With AC
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Height (in): 6-1/4
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Oldsmobile Firenza
APDI
1998 Oldsmobile 88 HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-0700471    9010197  New

8214 , 52462735 , 90214 , 398214 , 98480 , 60057 , 96010 , 52470154 , 94480 , 3058630

Qty:
$36.16
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Height (in): 7-1/8
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Oldsmobile 88
APDI
1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88 HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-0700471    9010197  New

8214 , 52462735 , 90214 , 398214 , 98480 , 60057 , 96010 , 52470154 , 94480 , 3058630

Qty:
$36.16
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Without Automatic Temperature Control
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Construction: Aluminum
    • Core Height (in): 7-1/8
    • Inlet Connection (in): 3/4
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Oldsmobile Delta 88

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Heater Core Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

HELP!1998 oldsmobile aurora overheating

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From suzanner on HELP!1998 oldsmobile aurora overheating

Help please car is overheating. Done all compression tests, new water pump, new raditor, thermostat was rusted solid removed and did not put new one in--thinking it would help to keep the engine cool. Could not replacing the thermostat cause it to overheat? Or any other suggestions? Thanks suzy. Personal contact info removed.

Response From Hammer Time

There are dozens of reasons for overheating, depending on the condition of the cooling system and yes, it does require a thermostat at all times.

Response From Discretesignals

thermostat was rusted solid

That's not a good thing. You flush the engine and coolant system out before replacing the radiator?

Does it overheat sitting at a light or while cruising?

Response From suzanner

Thanks for the feedback. Car didn't run for a year. It overheats while sitting.

Response From Discretesignals

Do the electrical cooling fans come on when it is getting hot? If you have the ac turned on, do the fans come on?

Response From suzanner

When it reaches 190-200 low coolant light clicks on as well as fans.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Did you flush out the system really well, including the heater core?

Response From suzanner

Yes I did n still overheating.

Response From Discretesignals

When the fans come on, is the air blowing out of the fans hot? Feel the heater hoses. Are they hot?

Response From suzanner

Heater hose is hot and building pressure. Fans are blowing cold. If there is any trapped air in the system will that cause it to overheat.

Response From Discretesignals

Makes us wonder why it was sitting so long.

Yes, that will definitely cause it to overheat. If there is combustion gases getting into the coolant system, no amount of bleeding is going to work. A cylinder leak down test can reveal if there is a head gasket problem, cracked head, or cracked cylinder wall. You'll see bubbles in the coolant system when you pressures the cylinder. Compression tests may not give you an indication if the leak is small.



Some of techs use vacuum coolant lift system to do refills on those, because they do like to trap air sometimes.

Here is the service procedure:

FILLING PROCEDURE

1. Close the radiator drain cock.

NOTICE: When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL@ or HAVOLINE DEX-COOL@ coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOLS or HAVOLINE DEX-COOL@ is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 miles) or 24 months.

NOTICE: Do not use a solution stronger than 70% antifreeze. Pure antifreeze can freeze at -22°C (-8°F).

NOTICE: This engine uses DEX-COOLS and GM coolant supplement (sealant) P/N 3634621 specifically designed for use in aluminum engines. Failure to use the engine coolant supplement (sealant) and the approved coolant antifreeze could result in major engine damage.

When refilling the cooling system, add three pellets of the engine coolant supplement sealant GM P/N 3634621 to lower the radiator hose.

2. Refill the cooling system. In order to ensure sufficient Cooling System, freezing and corrosion protection, maintain the coolant protection level at -37°C (-34°F) or lower.

3. Set the heater and A/C control in any A/C mode except MAX. Set the temperature to the highest setting.

4. Allow the engine to continue idling until the lower radiator to coolant pump hose becomes hot.

5. Cycle the engine speed up to about 3,000 RPM and back to idle 5 times. On the VIN 1 engines, slowly open the bleed valve on the rear of the thermostat housing for about 15 seconds in order to release any trapped air in the cooling system.

6. After the air has been released, fill the radiator. Install the radiator pressure cap/surge tank. The arrows on the radiator pressure cap must line up with the coolant recovery tube.

7. Allow the engine to cool to the outside temperature. Check the coolant level. If the coolant level is not at the Add (of Full Cold) mark, add coolant until the coolant reaches the mark.

Response From suzanner

If there's 210 lbs pressure per cylinder and they all hold steady with no leaks will that void out a head gasket. It has good compression in all cylinders.

Response From Discretesignals

The static compression pressure in the cylinders doesn't hold because the pressure will bleed off through the rings. An engine's cylinder isn't perfectly sealed. The reason the pressure stays where it is on your gauge is because it has a check valve in it. This means you could have great compression, but still could be getting gasses into the coolant system.

A leak down test actually pressurizes the cylinders with compressed air. The tester tells you the leak down rate of the cylinder. Since it is using compressed air, it keeps the cylinder pressurized and any leaks going into the coolant system will show up as bubbling in the reservoir.

Response From suzanner

Heater hose is hot and building pressure

3.1 engine leaking

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From shadow007201 on 3.1 engine leaking

I got a 1997 oldsmobile cutless supreme with a 3.1 and i have a coolant leak the gauage goes almost to H then drops i get no heat until the gauage drops. Ran stop leak through twice and it only happens with its running and warm. after its turned off it drips for a bit and then stops. I got only 126K on the engine I'm wondering if i need a gasket to fix the problem if so which one.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Your going to have a whole lot more problems after adding that stop leak then what you started with. You just need to pressure test the system, find the leak and repair it. Flush as much of that sealer out that you can but you have probably already plugged up your radiator and heater core with it.

coolant leak top of engine

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From rcmos on coolant leak top of engine

I have a 94 oldsmobile cutlass cierra s 3.1, just the other day i was replacing the thermostat and thought that was the only thing keeping my heat from working. make sure coolant levels are good and let it get warm. the heat still would not work. i got to looking and there is a leak down in my engine. when i start my car i can see it sortof foam up a little as it leaks but its too far in to see where its coming from. it looks like its coming from a pipe that the coolant runs to possibly the heater core. any help and info would be appreciated

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

We aren't there to see what is leaking and the 3.1 does have a few coolant pipes. You need to pressure test the cooling system to verify the leak.

Passenger side temperature control

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From psamp48 on Passenger side temperature control

1997 Oldsmobile LSS
3.8 Litre (not supercharged)
123000 kilometers

I just bought this car, pretty good shape. One problem is that the passenger side heat has no control, seems to always blow cold. I can control the drivers side with the main, but the passenger side stays cold, and the door control doesn't do anything either. I had a 1995 Cutlass Supreme with the same problem. I replaced the passenger actuator, and all worked well. I cannot seem to find the passenger side actuator on the LSS. The door switch is connected, as it will turn the "Pass" light on the main panel when I move it. Is this enough info for someone to help me?

Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

Response From psamp48

I haven't been using the car lately, but today I decided to take it for a run. The temperature this morning is -8 Celsius. I can't seem to get much heat out of the system. The engine is at normal running temperature, but I still get only cold air from the passenger side, and a little bit of heat from the driver's side. Also, when I turn the "pass" control off on the main panel, it always comes back on a few seconds later. I checked to see that the passenger gate was moving, as per the above drawing, but I'm not sure that it is being controlled properly. It was a cold drive to work this morning. What should I check next?

Response From psamp48

Does anyone have any idea what I should check next, I need to get it working before the real winter sets in.

Response From Hammer Time

Unhook the rod and make sure it's closing the door all the way.

Response From psamp48 Top Rated Answer

I unhooked the rod, it was in the wrong place, works well now, although I don"t think the passenger door control is working.

The heat is working, but not very much heat. I back flushed the heater core, good and clean, but the hoses don"t get very hot. Could there be something impeding the flow on the engine?

Response From Hammer Time

It would likely be the heater core plugged up,not the engine but check the engine temp first to make sure it's getting hot eough.

1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cooling Problem

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From chris2345 on 1998 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cooling Problem

Hello, this is my first time posting on these forums.

I have a 1998 Oldmobile Cutlass with a 3.1 liter engine 6 cyllinder with 75,000 miles on it. About a year ago I had to replace the head gasket because it blew. (when it was delivered to me by my uncle, he drove it up here without the radiator cap....he forgot to put it back on. I think thats what might of caused it to blow)

A couple weeks ago my car overheated to the point where it actually boiled over, this happened I believe twice. Since then my dad and I have done several things to try and remedy the issue but havn't been successful. We first tried replacing the thermostat, this didnt seem to do anything because the car still ran too hot, it didnt overheat but it would run about 3/4 on the gauge. We then checked to make sure the fans were kicking in, which they were and we also tried bleeding the system. Its a strange car because theres only one bleeder on top and the bleeder thats normally on the bottom is supposed to bleed itself, which im guessing its working because you can hear air coming out of it when the car is too hot and starts to boil.

From there we tried flushing the radiator and engine / heater core thinking there might be a clog, the antifreeze that came out didnt have any oil in it and there wasnt any coolant in the oil either, so im hoping that its not a head gasket. We refilled the system after flushing it and it was a little better but still got hot.

Finally i was reading about how coolant will boil at a lower temperature if there isnt enough pressure or the radiator cap was bad. We replaced this which made a significant difference. The car was no longer getting as hot as it was and seemed to be fixed. However, ive now noticed that the car will run at normal temperatures for about 25 to 30 minutes and then it will slowly get hotter as time goes on, it goes from about 210 degrees up to 225, especially if i have the air condition on. But this is only after the car has already been running for about 30 minutes like i said. By the time i get home the car is now at about 235 degrees to 240, and when i shut the car off i can hear it start boiling and the temperature will rise a little more then finally cool off. Often times i will see a little bit of coolant that has eited the radiator cap but not much at all. Ive checked all the hoses and they appear to be fine, none have collapsed and now im at a loss as to what can be wrong.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Chris

PS: I thought about the possibility of the water pump being bad but when the car is running and we were testing it with the bleeder open it would push out antifreeze from the top bleeder when we rev'd the engine.




Links from other sites removed

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Its a strange car because theres only one bleeder on top and the bleeder thats normally on the bottom is supposed to bleed itself"

Say what?! Some radiators don't have drain plugs but you certainly wouldn't be bleeding air out from the bottom!

I think you should be checking for combustion gasses in cooling system and expect intake and head gaskets AGAIN and with all the overheating the parts should be sent out and checked for warpage and cracks as well as the block. Could be real trouble,

T

Response From chris2345

What i mean by the two bleeders is on my last car (same engine) there was a bleeder on the left of the engine near the resevoir and then a second bleeder on the right side near the thermostat housing. This car has a self bleeding line that runs from the thermostat housing to the bottle.

Im pretty sure its the head gaskets, unfortunatly I dont have the $300 or so to send them out and have them checked for cracks / warps. If I did, I think id rather have a different car lol. This engine is by far the most troublesome engine I have ever seen. Both cars the head gasket seems to blow about once a year, maybe once every two years on a rare occasion.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

That little spout at the recovery tank is just a blow out port when pressures exceed the pressure cap's rating which would happen at boiling. Just there to direct the mess away from the rest of things.

When a system is drained for any reason you need to know it's full again. Some will give you a bleeder bolt/plug on engine side of the thermostat or up high to let air out. Some are really fussy and yes the idea is air go to recovery and only liquid returns. Over several cycles it would self purge but if too low to cool properly the overheating defeats that.

I've seen these engines do 300k like nothing and hear that they are constant gasket eaters.

Not sending heads out and manifold in this case is just playing Russian Roulette with all six bullets!

Diagnostics is mandatory to decide on doing gasket job or giving up for either another engine or another car IMO,

T