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Mopar
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee HVAC Heater Core Mopar

P311-5E22EF3    W0133-1775731  New

Qty:
$90.97
Mopar HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
2005 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Metrix
2003 Jeep Liberty HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-5E934E9    W0133-1878071  New

Qty:
$85.77
Metrix HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Metrix
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Vehicle
2003 - Jeep Liberty
Mopar
2007 Jeep Compass HVAC Heater Core Mopar

P311-15179BE    W0133-1916114  New

Qty:
$165.31
Mopar HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Jeep Compass
TYC
2007 Jeep Liberty HVAC Heater Core TYC

P311-59B3EF4    W0133-1982928  New

Qty:
$109.63
TYC HVAC Heater Core
Brand: TYC
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Vehicle
2007 - Jeep Liberty
Mopar
2007 Jeep Wrangler HVAC Heater Core Mopar

P311-03311D0    W0133-1916121  New

Qty:
$89.36
Mopar HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Jeep Wrangler
Mopar
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee HVAC Heater Core Mopar

P311-39149F0    W0133-1680837  New

Qty:
$115.48
Mopar HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Mopar
2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee HVAC Heater Core Mopar

P311-39149F0    W0133-1680837  New

Qty:
$115.48
Mopar HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Manual Temperature Controls, w/o Aluminum Core
Brand: Mopar
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Jeep Grand Cherokee
Metrix
1993 Jeep Grand Wagoneer HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-26089F3    W0133-1681126  New

Qty:
$119.85
Brand: Metrix
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Jeep Grand Wagoneer
Metrix
2002 Jeep Wrangler HVAC Heater Core Metrix

P311-325DF26    W0133-1878120  New

Qty:
$81.04
  • with Left Hand Drive
Brand: Metrix
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Jeep Wrangler
Global Parts
2008 Jeep Commander HVAC Heater Core 8 Cyl 5.7L Global Parts

P311-59E7900    8231397  New

Qty:
$56.64
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - Jeep Commander V - 345
Global Parts
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee HVAC Heater Core 6 Cyl 4.0L Global Parts

P311-5AF1B94    8231334  New

Qty:
$44.71
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1998 - Jeep Grand Cherokee L - 242
Global Parts
2000 Jeep Cherokee HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.5L Global Parts

P311-060C331    8231376  New

Qty:
$44.04
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
  • Left Hand Drive
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2000 - Jeep Cherokee L - 150
Global Parts
1996 Jeep Cherokee HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.5L Global Parts

P311-54D94EB    8231331  New

Qty:
$42.57
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
  • Left Hand Drive
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1996 - Jeep Cherokee L - 150
Global Parts
1992 Jeep Comanche HVAC Heater Core 6 Cyl 4.0L Global Parts

P311-54D94EB    8231331  New

Qty:
$42.57
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1992 - Jeep Comanche L - 242
Global Parts
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee HVAC Heater Core 8 Cyl 4.7L Global Parts

P311-412D0C7    8231398  New

Qty:
$41.85
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2004 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V - 285
Global Parts
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee HVAC Heater Core - Front 8 Cyl 5.9L Global Parts

P311-22BCEC1    8231241  New

Qty:
$42.35
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core  Front
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1998 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V - 360 Front
Global Parts
2006 Jeep Liberty HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.8L Global Parts

P311-0736068    8231409  New

Qty:
$48.40
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2006 - Jeep Liberty L 2768 171
Global Parts
2006 Jeep TJ HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.4L Global Parts

P311-5CDD4B8    8231408  New

Qty:
$44.46
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2006 - Jeep TJ L - 148
Global Parts
2001 Jeep TJ HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.5L Global Parts

P311-060C331    8231376  New

Qty:
$44.04
Global Parts HVAC Heater Core
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2001 - Jeep TJ L - 150

Latest Jeep Repair and Heater Core Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

no heat in 94 jeep

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From jeepchick on no heat in 94 jeep

we have replaced the thermostat ,radiator and heater hoses and checked the heater core for clogs.
the hoses are hot going into the heater core and heater box. but cold going out.
there is absolutely no heat inside

Response From way2old

If the outlet hose is cold, the problem is in your heater core. Have you tried flushing again to be sure there is no air pocket in the system? You have pretty much isolated the problem, now to figure out if it is air pocket or clog in heater core.

Response From jeepchick Top Rated Answer

Thank you so much for your help!
It was an air pocket . After we reflushed the heater core,
we purged the air . and now we have GREAT heat!
My son and 4 mo old grandaughter thank you too.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


"Here he comes to save the day" way2old really is the Lone Ranger!!

T

Response From way2old



THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!

heater plroblems

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From jeep driver on heater plroblems

i also have water poring into my floor panel when i run the air does that mean my heater core is bad? thank you so much for answering that last post!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You mean coolant/anti-freeze don't you? There's only a slim chance of coolant getting into the floor of car with a hose leaking at the heater core otherwise it must be the core itself.

What kind of vehicle is this?

T

Response From jeep driver Top Rated Answer

its a 1995 jeep cherokee xj 4.0 striaght six.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You still didn't say if it was anti-freeze or water. It matters. There was a nasty ice situation in much of the US that can make strange things happen. If anti-freeze it will smell like it and be sticky on the windows. I've never seen the Jeep like this put anti-freeze on the floor without it being a leaking heater core,

T

Response From jeep driver

Its water on the floor board and my heater blows fairly warm on the drivers side and a little bit colder on the passenger.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This now points to something in the distribution box broken or cracked or something kooky in there. There is a drain for the water A/C makes normally and it too may play a part now. They can clog and A/C "condensate" it's called needs a place to go out and not on the floor. Most are a rubber elbow towards center, lower, engine side of firewall. It must be open. Perhaps if you find it you could blow some compressed air in it (gently) and see if it goes thru.

Other than that a look while standing on your head up under the dash while it's doing it may show the source. I'm a little confused why this is doing this when you ask for heat and not just anytime it's wet out or snow or ice melting no matter what is on or off. Do you find it wet when the car is not being used at all? Windshield leaks can do this but they shouldn't care about what you are doing for heat at all.

The one side being warmer than the other could be that there a lot of muck in the box or a poor connection of ductwork that may be like a dryer vent peice of tube or a plastic job.

Gonna have to look as best you can. Sometimes thru glovebox can help,

T

jeep no heat

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From keeprwet on jeep no heat

2000 jeep grand charokee 4.0 L straight 6. 205,000 installed new thermostat ,new water pump, flushed the heater core. you get some heat while driveing, more than at idol.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If not too hot to hold, then you have to look at the actual engine temp and if that is up, if it is, then your looking at a restricted heater core.
If you find that they are both too hot to hold, then the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. it is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.
If they are both not too hot to hold on to, then you either have a restricted heater core or the system is not completely full and getting air pockets for some reason.

over cooling ???

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From omega69 on over cooling ???

I have a 90 jeep cherokee inline 6 i have no heat.There is a brand new water pump and new thermostat coolent is also full and circulating.Could the heater core be pluged ..or is there some kind of bypass due to a faulty temp gage or something i cant see..any help would be great .thank's

Response From Double J

Run the engine to operating temperature.......thermostat open....
Touch the upper radiator hose, if thermostat is open ,it will be hot to the touch...
Check both heater hoses...should be hot to the touch going in and coming out...if only one is hot,heater core probably is clogged....
I believe this model uses a heater control valve as well.....make sure valve is operating..
Post back findings....

JIm

Response From omega69

The engine does not achive opperating temp it stays at about 45 Deg insted of 100 deg.(normal temp)The hoses are warm only .I noticed what looks like a vacume opperated valve between the heater core and the top of the thermostat housing where the core hose connects.I took the hose off this valve on the core side to check for flow (engine off)and it was good. i dont get any vacume to the valve though(engine running).is there some other system that could prevent reching opperating temp...Thank's for your help....

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If it doesn't warm up you'll probably notice the upper hose gets warm early from a cold start indicating the thermostat is not closing or slipped and is bent somehow - new or not,

T

2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Gatech04 on 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Good Afternoon,

My 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently started overheating and I was hoping to find some help pinpointing the problem. So far Ive replaced the radiator cap and thermostat - neither of which seemed to help. I even took the thermostat out all together and that didnt seem to work.



Here are my most recent observations from the other night (with thermostat still removed):

It took 6-7 minutes to reach a running temp of 210 just idling. Once there, it took only about a minute to get up near 260 when I turned it off.

While running, the large fan directly next to the serpentine belt was running continuously, but the smaller fan nearer the radiator never came on. I didnt try turning the AC though, I'll have to wait for it to cool down and I'll recheck that. I did try the heat while it was running though and only cool air came out.

After I turned it off, the upper radiator hose was very hot to the touch, the radiator cap was warm, the lower radiator hose was cool and both heater core lines were cool to the touch once you got far enough away from the thermostat (hence the lack of heat I assume).

When the engine is off, the large fan nearest the water pump only turns if I have consitent pressure on the blade and the smaller fan nearer the radiator "freewheels".

There are no apparent leaks (no coolant on the ground, no obvious leaks at the thermostat/pump/radiator/hoses/heater core).




Any help in narrowing down the problem would be greatly appreciated? Please let me know if you need more information of if I should snap some pictures.

Here's a video I made of it running with the rad cap off. I didnt let the engine even get to normal running temp, since a good bit of coolant was overflowing and I didnt want to make a toxic mess. I did have the AC on full blast and the little aux. fan never came on, but the temperature never got to 210 either, so Im not sure if that is normal.




Thank you

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Pardon my jumping in;
Gatech04; Just watched the video. Is this with the thermostat in, or out? I believe that this engine has a clutch fan as well as an auxillary electric fan for the A/C operation? At temperature, the clutch fan should be 'locked up' and not freewheeling as you stated. I also saw air bubbles coming out of the radiator, indicating either air is still in the system from lack of 'bleeding' or is being put into the system from a head gasket leak which will cause overheating. With the type of 'neck' on the radiator, you may not be able to see if it is flowing coolant unless you lower the coolant level down to where you can see the cores, if at all. As Sidom stated, running it without a thermostat will cause overheating problems, so you don't want to do that, but it is a good test for checking flow. The thermostat is there for a couple of reasons. It keeps the engine at a specified temp (195F-210F is normal) and allows time for the water in the radiator to cool down before re-entering the engine when the stat opens.

Response From Gatech04

The video was with the thermostat out. I havent noticed anything odd with the oil to indicate a leak into a head gasket - but I'll double check both the dipstick and oil fill area.

My comments on the fan were with the Jeep off. The larger of the two fans - the clutch fan? - was not freewheeling, but the smaller one in between that one and the radiator would freewheel.

I was planning on changing out the water pump on Mon/Tue (I wont have time to work on it till then) and at the same time I would be draining the coolant and re-inserting the thermostat. Does this sound like my next step? or are there other things I should try before doing this.



I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller. Since the 2 hoses going to/from the heater core remained cool to the touch, and since the heater doesnt work now - that would be the indication right?

Sorry that Im not too familiar with these types of things, I am enjoying learning though!

Thank you!

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller.



Yes, you're just looking to see if the pump is capable of genrating some good flow. Im memory serves me correct (which ½ the time is don't) there is a steel tube coming off the pump for the heater hose, you could use that line, or Loren's suggestion of the upper hose, either will work & either will make a heck of mess if the pump is good, so prepare accordingly. Impellers problems are definately the less common ones and I wouldn't change the pump "just because" but if you aren't getting any flow off the pump, that's problem.... The a boroscope would be nice, but I don't imagine you have on of those.....

Loren has given some real good steps to find the prob...... I would probably follow those 1st.........

Response From Gatech04

Well I finally had time to work on it again Tuesday night. Turns out the plastic impeller had broken loose from the shaft. I got it fixed and put back together, added a new serp. belt and flushed the radiator. Everything is working great now!

Thanks for all the help!

GT

Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you found and fixed the problem.....good job........ Thx 4 coming backing with the results to your problem........ You may help someone in the future......

Response From lovemyjeeps

I have the same problem described here on my 2001 Cherokee Classic. I just did the upper radiator hose test and only got steam even as temp reached 210. Any sugestions?

Response From Discretesignals

You need to start your own thread please.

Read this on how to create a thread:


http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/FORUM_RULES_%3D%3D%3D%3D_READ_BEFORE_POSTING_P122997/

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Gatech; How did your cooling system look before you drained and filled? Was it very rusty? Not that it matters much, now, but I'm thinking of the water pump impeller as Sidom had mentioned. If the system was very rusty, it is possible that the impeller has rusted away enough to affect flow. It is very rare, but I've also seen the impeller come loose from the hub. (originally, pressed on) Another thing is a plugged radiator. For the following tests, drain and save your anti-freeze so you can re-use it. Fill the radiator with water. Remove the lower radiator hose. The water should gush out. Using a garden hose, you shouldn't be able to keep up with the water flowing out of the bottom of the radiator. Another test, although may be hard to do, at normal operating temperature, feel the radiator with your hand. The temperature should be equal, throughout. If you feel a spot that is cool, then it is plugged. With the thermostat still out and the engine idling and cold, remove the upper radiator hose. Careful that you don't get a bath. It should shoot water out like a firehose. Of course, only run it for a few seconds to watch the flow from the water pump. If you didn't know, cold water from the radiator goes into the water pump, then throughout the engine, then back into the radiator through the upper radiator hose past the thermostat when it opens. So, it's normal for the lower hose to be cool and the upper hose to be hot.
Now, back to the head gasket issue. Head gaskets generally will blow into an exhaust port, rather than into the crankcase. So, pretty common to see a blown head gasket with no water in the oil. This is an easy test. Either with a chemical, available from most parts stores, or with an exhaust gas analyzer which any shop that does emission repairs, will have. That's actually where I'd start, first. Eliminating, or confirming, the head gasket.

Response From Guest

Thank you for the reply!

I actually havent drained the system yet. I lost some coolant each of the 2 times I overheated on the road due to the hot coolant overfilling the resevoir and spilling out the overflow until everything cooled down.

When I changed the thermostat and subsequently removed it again, I just let the coolant/water fall as I was on the side of the road (I know - bad).

I'll be sure to do the radiator tests you mentioned on monday when I drain the radiator. I'll probably pick up the exhaust test tomorrow though to clear that issue.

I'll try to take pictures and videos throughout the processes so those smarter than I in these areas can keep me on track!

Thanks again for all the help!

Response From Gatech04

Looks like I forgot to log in (came here via link in update email) but that last reply was me!

I think this will be my tentative process from here:

1) Check exhaust
2) Drain Radiator
3) Fill with water
4) Perform flow test at bottom rad hose
5) Perform flow test at upper rad hose
6) Remove water pump and inspect for damaged impeller
7) .... Fix it!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

You'll get it! Let us know how it goes.

Response From Sidom

On that problem I would probably be looking for a flow problem. With no t stat you should have circulation right away. I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump. If you aren't getting a good stream, I would inspect the impeller on the water pump.