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HVAC Heater Core
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LKQ
2010 Chevrolet Cobalt HVAC Heater Core LKQ

P311-4C9A1E0    HTR010474  New

Qty:
$57.69
LKQ HVAC Heater Core
  • HEATER CORE; ALUMINUM
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chevrolet Cobalt
APDI
2010 Chevrolet Cobalt HVAC Heater Core APDI - Heater Core

P311-045463C    9010462  New

399917 , 96061 , 52493347 , 99304

Qty:
$55.63
APDI HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC HEATER CORE
  • Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • Inlet Connection (in): 5/8
    • Outlet Connection (in): 3/4
  • Heater - GM
Brand: APDI
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chevrolet Cobalt
Global Parts
2008 Chevrolet Cobalt HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.0L Global Parts

P311-07D3CF1    8231615  New

Qty:
$73.28
  • Heater cores transfer heat from the engine's cooling system to the inside of the vehicle. Thermostat housing and water outlets are connections that transfer coolant between the radiator and the engine block and generally house the thermostat.
Brand: Global Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Chevrolet Cobalt L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
One Stop Solutions
2010 Chevrolet Cobalt HVAC Heater Core 4 Cyl 2.2L One Stop Solutions

P311-361AA0F    99020  New

399917 , 99304

Qty:
$36.69
  • OSC Cooling Products 99020 New Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • ASIN: B00hws00f8
    • BulletPoint 1: Features Drop-in Fit, Form, And Function
    • BulletPoint 2: Offers To Solve Original Design Failures And Improve The Life Of High Mileage Vehicles
    • BulletPoint 3: Utilizes Cycle, Vibration, Burst, And Environmental State Of The Art Testing
    • BulletPoint 4: Features Premium Grade Materials Ensuring Added Product Longevity
    • BulletPoint 5: Improves The Life Of High Mileage Vehicles
  • OSC Premium New Automotive Heater Cores are designed to Original Equipment's form and function. OSC's heater cores are technically advanced and made from premium grade Aluminum. The tubes are cadmium plated inside and out to prevent premature failure. Each heater core is individually pressure tested. All necessary foam and accessories are included in each unit. NOTE: All OSC Heater Cores are made from Aluminum. They are a direct replacement for a copper designed Heater Core.
Brand: One Stop Solutions
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Chevrolet Cobalt L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
Spectra
2010 Chevrolet Cobalt HVAC Heater Core Spectra

P311-5EDED26    99304  New

91018 , HT2016C , 99304 , HTR010474 , HT2016 , 99020 , 52493347 , 9010462 , 8418 , 92018 , 1563093 , 399917 , 15-63093

Qty:
$58.76
Spectra HVAC Heater Core
  • HVAC Heater Core
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65: Yes
    • California_Prop 65 Message: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium HVAC heater cores meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chevrolet Cobalt
TYC Products
2005 Chevrolet Cobalt HVAC Heater Core - Front TYC Products

P311-50C2B76    96061  New

399917 , HC10006 , 52493347 , 15-63093 , 9010462 , 96061

Qty:
$41.21
  • TYC HVAC Heater Core
  • Core Height (IN): 6.13 Core Length (IN): 8.19 Core Material: Aluminum Core Thickness (IN): 1.02 Inlet Connection Type: Hose Clamp Inlet Diameter (IN): 0.63 Outlet Connection Type: Hose Clamp Outlet Diameter (IN): 0.75
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bottom Header: 1.8x6.83
    • Core Height (IN): 6.13
    • Core Material: Aluminum
    • Inlet Connection Type: Hose Clamp
    • Outlet Connection Type: Hose Clamp
    • Top Header: 1.8x6.83
Brand: TYC Products
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Chevrolet Cobalt Front
TYC
2010 Chevrolet Cobalt HVAC Heater Core TYC

P311-3A10B7B    W0133-1880202  New

Qty:
$91.04
TYC HVAC Heater Core
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chevrolet Cobalt
ACDelco
2010 Chevrolet Cobalt HVAC Heater Core ACDelco

P311-11285E1    W0133-1880202  New

Qty:
$270.27
ACDelco HVAC Heater Core
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Chevrolet Cobalt

Latest Chevrolet Cobalt Repair and Heater Core Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

HVAC Case replacement 06 COBALT

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Oberschmidt93 on HVAC Case replacement 06 COBALT

I have a 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt LS, 2.2 Engine. I have a broken piece on the blend door for the actuator to work. I am looking at going to a junk yard tomorrow to get a entire case assembly.. Does anyone know where I can find specific instructions on how to do this?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

HVAC MODULE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

TOOLS REQUIRED

  • J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector
  • J 38185 Hose Clamp Pliers

    • CAUTION: With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.

    REMOVAL PROCEDURE
    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
    3. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System (2.0L (LSJ)) Draining and Filling Cooling System (2.2L (L61), 2.4L (LE5)) Draining and Filling Cooling System (GE 47716 Fill) in Cooling System.





    1. Reposition the heater outlet hose clamp at the heater core using J 38185.
    2. Remove the heater outlet hose from the heater core.
    3. Position the hose upright against the front of dash.





    1. Reposition the heater inlet hose clamp at the heater core using J 38185.
    2. Remove the heater inlet hose from the heater core.
    3. Position the hose upright against the front of dash.





    1. Remove the condenser tube and evaporator hose from the thermal expansion valve (TXV).
    2. Remove and discard the seal washers.





    1. Remove the HVAC module nuts from the front of dash.





    1. Disconnect the blower motor connector.





    1. Disconnect the blower motor resister electrical connector.
    2. Remove the instrument panel (I/P) tie bar.





    1. Raise the center floor outlet duct while pushing the floor ducts down to disengage the ducts.
    2. Rotate the center floor outlet duct forward in the vehicle and pull down to disengage the duct from the HVAC module.





    1. Disconnect the recirculation actuator electrical connector.
    2. Remove the HVAC module from the vehicle.

    INSTALLATION PROCEDURE





    1. Replace the drain tube seal.





    1. Replace the front of dash seal.
    2. Inspect and replace the HVAC module seals if damaged:
  • The defrost duct seal
  • The HVAC module to cross car duct seal
  • The center air outlet duct seal
  • The center floor air outlet duct seal
  • The air inlet seal
    1. Place the HVAC module in the vehicle. Align the HVAC module drain tube and front of dash studs to the vehicle.





    1. Install the HVAC module nuts to the front of dash.

    Tighten the nuts to 10 N.m (89 lb in) .

    NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.





    1. Connect the recirculation actuator electrical connector.





    1. Align the center floor duct with the HVAC module.
    2. Push the center floor duct up while rotating rearward in the vehicle to install on the HVAC module.
    3. Push down on the floor duct while rotating the center floor outlet ducts to align the ducts.
    4. Slide the center floor outlet duct down into position in the floor ducts.
    5. Install the I/P tie bar.





    1. Connect the blower motor connector.





    1. Connect the blower motor resister electrical connector.





    1. Install the heater outlet hose to the heater core.
    2. Reposition the hose clamp to secure the hose using J 38185.





    1. Install the heater inlet hose to the heater core.
    2. Reposition the hose clamp to secure the hose using J 38185.





    1. Install new sealing washers on the condenser tube and evaporator hose fittings.
    2. Install the condenser tube and evaporator hose to the TXV.
    3. Install the TXV nut.

    Tighten the nut to 20 N.m (15 lb ft) .

    1. Evacuate and charge the refrigerant system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging.
    2. Leak test the fittings using the J 39400-A.
    3. Connect the negative battery cable.
    4. Fill the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System (2.0L (LSJ)) Draining and Filling Cooling System (2.2L (L61), 2.4L (LE5)) Draining and Filling Cooling System (GE 47716 Fill) in Cooling System.

    Response From Discretesignals

    Got part of the procedure. The tie bar has to come out which means you have to remove the entire dash. Maybe the OP should subscribe to AlldataDIY cause there are lots of steps in removal and installation. It's an 8 hour job to remove and install one. Going to have fun laying on the seats in the middle of a salvage yard getting that one out..yuck.

    Response From Hammer Time

    They didn't leave it out.

    3rd from the last paragraph in removal section. "Remove Instrument Panel"

    2005 Chevy Cobalt won't start

    Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
    Question From samjsoltys on 2005 Chevy Cobalt won't start

    2005 Chevrolet Cobalt
    2.2 L eco
    111,415 miles


    I drove my car from Pennsylvania to South Carolina without any issues other than at one point my passenger side floorboard became damp.
    My car sat for two days then when I attempted to use it I couldn't get it to start. When I turn the key in the ignition the starter clicks like it wants to go but it will only get the motor to turn over once but then fails.
    I took my battery to Advanced Auto and they charged my battery back up to make sure it wasn't the problem, and I also changed the battery out of my neighbors truck to double check anyway. Both batteries gave the same result.
    I checked my oil and it was a smidge low, I added oil and tried again and got the motor to turn over once but I couldn't get it to start.
    I've also tried giving it gas when I attempt to crank it but still no go.
    If the starter is clicking like it is that means my starter isn't the problem?
    Could it be a spark plug issue? Or a fuel pump problem, I am thinking that it isn't the pump just because it does turn over once but I may be wrong. It doesn't turn over everytime I attempt to crank it only after I allow it to sit for a few minutes and try again. Like the first time I try it I can get it to turn over but then if I try it again right away it won't work.
    I've also heard it could be my alternator but wouldn't it still start with a fully charged battery? My understanding is that the alternator just charges the battery when the motor is running, so my car should have started at least when I put in the other battery or my battery freshly charged.


    Not sure what else to try without calling a garage to come tow it and fix it, but between my neighbor and I we usually maintain our own vehicles

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    ? Away from home base probably doesn't help much for tools and testing too much yourself?


    Two batteries and doesn't start. OK - you said it turns once and then I think you mean you hear that rapid clicking or if just one hard click makes a difference in what to do or blame.


    Wet floor you can forget IMO for this. Forget alternator for the moment too. It would start without one or a belt at all or at least crank away just not charge the battery if it's involved at all for test later that charging is proper.


    I'll go on that starter turns just not enough to start then just the clicks for now. With seemingly power available from batteries with same results it seems like the starter is just sucking up more amps than can be delivered to it. You would see this with testing for voltage drop from not touching it to when it's just cranking but may not have stuff with you to do that.


    It's a bit crude but if you open door for interior lights and look at the dome light perhaps when starter cranks even a little it may dim much more than usual or almost go out. It would dim some while cranking not way too much which is hard to describe.


    Could also use headlight for same idea on while trying (unless this car shuts them off during "start" position mode anyway then forget that.


    If you can you might try to get either the starter checked and or see if engine is too tight and can turn by crank bolt or some depending can turn by the belt - sometimes by hand.


    Need to know if you are hearing the solenoid machine gun sound or a solid one click or if all lights go totally out. Possible for battery cables at solenoid and ground one where it should go right to engine block are weak/bad or the cables NG especially if not giving you that machine gun sound.


    Cheap test for alternator is how fast directional or flashes flash when running and not running if you get that far. If charging it will noticeable blink faster when running if charging properly.


    Outside maybe and tend to doubt it as you mentioned the wet floor? Why? Did you drive thru water or excessive under way? Maybe if starter was submerged or really soaked it harmed it????


    T

    Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

    Spark, fuel, alternator, and all that other jazz that is used when the engine is running is not going to cause a no crank.

    If the battery and cables(along with there connections) are good, then have the starter tested.

    The dampness on the floor could be the heater core leaking or a plugged HVAC housing drain.