Shop By Related HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator Parts

Shop below for all HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator related parts for your BMW

Shop for Top Selling Genuine Bmw 328i Xdrive Heater Blend Door Actuators

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Bmw 328i Xdrive Replacement Heater Blend Door Actuator Parts

We also have Heater Blend Door Actuator parts for other Bmw models, including .

Sorry, no results were found.

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 Trailblazer clicking from heater when vehicle starts

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Herb J on 2002 Trailblazer clicking from heater when vehicle starts

Have a return of a loud clicking for a few seconds when SUV starts. Coming from the heater area in the dash. Previous warranty work on this problem repaired "something" but I wasn't advised what exactly. Now that warranty is past, it's out of my pocket and the previous work only lasted for a few thousand miles. Could this be the Heater Blend Door Actuator? And where is it and how do you get to it? The previous work took a dealer close to 4 hours.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Did the prior work explain what they did?

Could be a blend door actuator. Try shutting the car off in defrost mode and see if that changes the noise or eliminates it. It may be telling of a door or actuator.

Do all the funtions of the controls at least still work as expected??

Dash work can take a long time. The four hours could be legit, T

1991 GMC K1500 Cannot Adjust Heat

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From buffer on 1991 GMC K1500 Cannot Adjust Heat

I may have multiple problems. I cannot adjust my heat. Hot air is always blowing. When I push the heat control button to low or high, all the arrows will light up, flash continuously and then just go out. The fan works and the other switches for adjusting face to feet work. I hear the clicking in the dash or control unit, whichever. I replaced AC control unit per GMC and that didn't fix the problem. Now here is problem 2, my temp. display has been flakey, meaning it will show over heating then nothing then normal then over heating etc. Now the temp. display doesn't move off cold and now my heater only blows cold air. GMC told me to replace the instrument cluster but since the AC control unit wasn't the problem, I'm reluctant to buy another cluster.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

When I push the heat control button to low or high, all the arrows will light up, flash continuously and then just go out.

That means there is a malfunction with the heater blend door actuator or its circuit. The clicking in the dash might be the actuator with stripped gearing or a problem with the blend door linkage.

You mean your coolant temperature gauge is acting strange? You should monitor the voltage on the temperature gauge sender circuit while the gauge is acting weird to determine if you have a sender, sender circuit, or instrument cluster problem.

Response From buffer

where is the actuator and the blend door linkage located? Is it possible that is might be the actuator motor? The clicking sounds like its coming from the heater control head.
GMC shop said that the temp. sensor tested good. ( that's the sensor with 1 wire )?? I replaced the other sensor with 2 wires, ( I think that's the sensor to the computer )??
My coolant level is fine and always has been.

Response From Hammer Time

It's number 61 in the picture.

This actuator has no relationship with your temp gauge. The only thing that no heat coupled an erratic temp gauge indicate is air in the system, although I think you do also have an actuator or door problem.

Response From buffer

Ok so just to clairify, heater blend door actuator is #61, and that may be my cool to hot blinking display problem?

I will double check the air in the system.

Could GMC dealer mechanic be correct, it may be the instrument cluster that is causing problem with the temp. gauge.

Response From Hammer Time

Sure, it could be anything in that electrical circuit effecting the gauge but the fact that the gauge problem is coupled with losing heat simultaneously tends to point elsewhere.

Response From loin_lord

Did the change in behavior of the temp display and only blowing hot or cold air coincide with any sudden changes in the outside air temp?

Response From buffer

No, the temp. gauge fluxuated for about a month with hot air flowing even with the heater turned off. It wasn't until the gauge quit totally that it started to flow cold.
Fyi, I did change the thermostat also, and there was no change.

Response From Hammer Time

No, the temp. gauge fluxuated for about a month with hot air flowing even with the heater turned off. It wasn't until the gauge quit totally that it started to flow cold.

That is sounding like you have more than one problem. This symptom is sounding like there is air in the system, probably resulting from coolant loss somewhere. Don't keep driving it until you get to the bottom of that symptom.

1998 Chevy Malibu, 3.1, Heater blows hot air then goes cold

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From kjburns128 on 1998 Chevy Malibu, 3.1, Heater blows hot air then goes cold

1998 Chevy Malibu, 3.1, 125k

We had just replaced the lower intake manifold gasket (common issue on this model car) and after we got everything backed together the car ran great, however, the heat would be hot then cold and alternate between the two. Honestly, it is pretty random fluctuations between the two. We replaced the coolant in the system with the gasket repair (did not do a flush), replaced the thermostat, bled the coolant line to get rid of any possible air bubbles and the issue is has not gone away. Best guess is heater core is plugged (checked both lines running into the heater core and one was hot and the other was luke-warm). Just odd that it would blow hot then cold which would mean the heater core is plugged then unplugged and back to plugged again. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Response From kev2

first thoughts
Air in system - purge and purge agan-
Thermostat- you used a 195 degree AC DELCO ?
The core being restricted - very common on GM this era -thank you Dexcool - Flushing and BACK flushing the core often solved the problem. BUT I would ask how did it perform BEFORE the work?

unlikely but have to ask - were any hoses removed - replaced correctly?

Response From kjburns128 Top Rated Answer

The new thermostat is not AC Delco but is a 195 degree thermostat.

The heater worked perfectly fine before repair.

We have done multiple purges (probably 5-7) and the problem is still there.

Also, all hoses that were removed for the gasket repair were replaced correctly.

Have to try the flushing of the heater core. Just something you don't want to get into when you don't have anywhere good to drain the water after it comes out.

Any possibility it is the heater blend door actuator?

Response From kev2

the reason I asked how it operated BEFORE was to eliminate those items blend door, waterpump, heater core blockage.
It worked before so I would concentrate on - air, T'stat, and lastly blockage.

the air temp door actuator is electric - not prone to moving like the vac type. Is the system changing modes ie defrost-dash -floor ?

Response From kjburns128

Yes, you can change the change the modes the heater. All the options on the dial work properly.

Response From Discretesignals

You should reverse flush the heat core. If you have a blockage, you'll have a hard time getting air out of the system.

Response From Hammer Time

The heater worked great before so it doesn't look like the core is plugged up. The motor still has air pockets and you need to get that resolved ASAP or you're going to do some serious damage.

Response From kjburns128

It took some doing but we were finally able to get all of the air pockets out of the system. Heater is back to working the way it should. Thanks to everyone for their help!

Response From Hammer Time

Glad you resolved the issue.

Question closed as solved now.

Response From Hammer Time

This engine is very difficult to get all the air out. I generally vacuum fill them to get it out. You still have air pockets.