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1962 Cadillac Series 62 Headlight Connector Motormite

P311-58F21E1    85809  New

5409 , 5409A , 5409C , 5409PT , 82059 , 84-1007 , S529

Motormite Headlight Connector
  • ; High Beam
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Plastic
    • Terminal Type: Spade
    • Weather Resistant: No
Brand: Motormite
Additional Fitment Information:
1962 - Cadillac Series 62
1962 Cadillac Series 62 Headlight Connector Motormite

P311-37EDA97    85810  New

08521 , 5365 , 5407 , 5407A , 5407C , 5407PT , 784811 , 787100 , 82058 , 84-1006 , 8521 , 8610 , 8610B , LS6246 , S526

Motormite Headlight Connector
  • ; Low Beam
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Gray
    • Gender: Female
    • Material: Plastic
    • Shape: Non-standard
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Terminal Type: Spade
    • Weather Resistant: No
    • Wire Harness Included: Yes
    • Wire Quantity: 3
Brand: Motormite
Additional Fitment Information:
1962 - Cadillac Series 62

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Headlight Connector/Socket Worn Off, Need a New One?

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From jakeyt on Headlight Connector/Socket Worn Off, Need a New One?

I went to replace the headlight in my Mini Cooper and while I was pulled the socket out, the plastic part around the connectors broke apart. Anyways, I have a new headlight and wondering if I can still connect the connectors to the light bulb or will that be dangerous? Should the connectors be insulated or will they spark? Or will they be fine if I connect them to the headlight ?

Response From zmame

You can get universal connectors to replace the connector. I don't recommend leaving it like it is for to long.

Response From jakeyt

I bought this:

link deleted.........not allowed

but don't I need to cut off the old cables and wire nut these on?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Don't use wire nuts to make electrical connections. Your not driving a house, so the best connection is to solder and heat shrink. You can also use hermetically sealed butt connectors as alternative. Automotive wiring is exposed to the weather and a whole different environment than the wiring in your house.

1998 z22 cavalier

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From mdb on 1998 z22 cavalier

Wiring for the head lights. Changed module but still no daytime lights or low beams.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

I’m not saying this is the problem for sure but I’ve had a few different Cavaliers with this issue and most have turned out to be a slice connection in the wiring harness behind the driver’s side headlight.
Pop the headlight out, to give you some room to work; open up the harness and follow the wiring back. You should fine a splice or two within a foot or so of the headlight connector.
Like I said this is not for sure but you won’t know until you look.
I think the wire color was the orange one that I’ve repaired?

Response From steve01832

You may have a faulty headlight or DRL relay. The relay is sometimes called a headlight enable relay.


DRL/LOWBEAMS not working-2003 chevy cavalier

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From acmahaffee on DRL/LOWBEAMS not working-2003 chevy cavalier

High beams and all other lights work but low beams and daytime running lights do not.Fuses all look good and the DRL relay has been replaced. Voltmeter shows power to all connections((different values though - 8V;11.7V;12.4V) at headlight assy even with light switch in off position. Is this normal? Any suggestions for further troubleshooting would be appreciated. With switch in low beam position, all wires show 11.9 V and in high beam position the pink wire drops to35 mv on left side and 0.6 V on the right side.

Thanks for your help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Are DRL and low beam the same bulb? Could just be the bulbs??


Response From acmahaffee

In this system, one bulb serves all three functions - DRL;high and low beam headlights.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

A couple of things to remember about this headlight system and they are; power is always present at the bulbs direct from the fuses. Next, the switch & DRL relay supply ground to the circuit.
With you saying that in low beam there is power on all wires, tells me that the bulbs are ok; power is passing through the bulb but not being used up because they are not getting ground.
In high beam; why you’re seeing a voltage drop at the pink wire is because they are being supplied a ground and the bulb filaments are using up that voltage; what you’re reading is the left over voltage.
DRL lights in this vehicle use the low beam filament at a reduced intensity by adding a resistor in series after the DRL relay to ground.
What I’ve found on a lot of Cavaliers is that the ground for that part of the circuit; anywhere from the headlights back to the fire wall corrodes and goes open for the low beam/DRL circuit.
If you look closely at the headlight connector you should be able to see letters (A,B,C) identifying the wires. You want to be tracing the A (blue) wires. Open up the harness and very carefully check that wire; you’ll find a splice somewhere close too or under the battery, where the left & right blue wires are connected together. They are a small gage wire so it takes very little corrosion before they go open.


Response From acmahaffee

thanks for your help. I've traced the blue (A) wire back to where it goes under the battery and now have the front up on blocks but still cannot get my hands on the rest of the harness - I see it but can't reach it. Is there an easier way to get to it? I could take the wheel and splash guard off unless there is a better way? Please advise. Thanks again, Chuck

Response From DanD

No there’s no easy way to get to the harness and yes I’ve had to remove batteries, battery trays, wheels and inner fenders to gain access.
When you do find the open in the circuit and do the repairs, make sure you properly insulate your splice. The slightest amount of moisture that can get to the bared wires will cause the problem to come back, in no time flat. Shrink tube seems to be about the best that I’ve found; slide over the repair, heat it up and like its name, it’ll shrink nice and tight to the wire.
AC Delco has brought out a crimp on connector that has the shrink wrap already attached and it also has die-electric grease imbedded in the connector.


Response From Creg

I joined just to tell you "THANK YOU" for the great info. After 6 hrs of laying under the dash I read your post, pulled the battery, opened the loom, and there it was!!! This car was an 2003 Impala, but same blue wire I bet.

Response From acmahaffee

Looks like I have my work cut out for me. Thanks again. I'll let you know it turns out!
I think I have some shrink tube around someplace - if not I'll pick some up. Not a job I'll want to do twice.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I really don't understand what you were testing with the voltmeter. If there is power there for either the low beam or DRL then it's probaly just a separate filiment in the bulb that is the DRL and the low beam and both are burned out. Basically - I think the bulbs are blown!

Note: Ever see the expected hours of life on even household bulbs? Same with cars. Since DRLs are on the whole time the car is running they are going to burn out faster than without that feature. At the age of this car it's about time if all bulbs are orig. When a customer ever came in for a bulb on one side I always did both if they were known origs as I would tell them the other will be soon (usually within the week) if they didn't and that's been so since Grant took Richmond.......... Have you just looked at the bulbs for discolorization? Bet they look a bit too dark or silverish,


Response From acmahaffee

Tom,thanks for your help. The bulbs look good and no indication the filaments are broken. Also, I don't believe the bulbs would show resistance if the filaments were broken would they? I initially assumed the bulbs were not the problem because both went out at the same time; unless these are like the old Christmas tree lights that didn't seem likely. Ref: my post to Dan, I'm currently looking for a bad ground. Any advice on how to get to the harness underneath the battery? Thanks again,Chuck

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thank you Dan! Kitty and I were stuggling with that one! Good post for archives.........


96 honda civic ex NO low beams

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From ls40095 on 96 honda civic ex NO low beams

Year of vehicle 96
Make of vehicle
Engine size 1.8 v-tec

Bought car recently. Fixed sunroof and P-Windows (fuse)....Battery negative terminal was coroded, cleaned that..Radio is an aftermarket CD player and I pulled that to make sure a shoddy job was not causing some type of short..Its fine...Cant find a fuse, relay or short in the wiring to fix low beams the headlights.. Hi beams only...


Response From DanD

Check for power at fuse # 21 & 22 (left & right low bean fuses) of the under dash fuse box, with the dimmer switch clicked on for low beam headlights. If there is NO power; it could be a bad dimmer switch, a bad connection or an open wire between the dimmer switch and fuse panel.


Response From ls40095

>with the dimmer switch clicked on for low beam headlights<

Do you mean the instrument cluster dimmer switch or the headlight switch?

Also...I was thinking to just go and pay $25 and get another headlight switch but wondered if I have to pull the wheel to replace it? If not, that would be fairly easy and cheap from a junk yard..


Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

I mean the high/low beam switch.
Before you go and start buying parts, finish checking things out.
The way this thing is wired; power from fuse #48 (30amp) of the underhood fuse box, is sent to the main headlight switch. When the switch is turned on, power from the main switch is sent to the hi/lo dimmer switch. Now depending on what position the dimmer switch is in, power is sent to the high beam or low beam headlight fuses. Each headlight has two fuses one for high and one for low beam element; inside each head light.
With you saying that the high beams work; we know that everything up to the dimmer switch is ok. That’s why I want to know whether the low beam fuses #21 & 22 (10amp) have power, when both the main headlight switch is turned on and the dimmer switch is switched for low beam headlights.
Now I’m also assuming that you’ve checked the headlight themselves; that the low beam portion of both headlight bulbs are not blown?
Easy to check is with a 12 volt test light; with the test light clipped to a known good ground (battery Neg). Headlights turned on and set to low beam; check whether the test light, lights when you probe the red/yellow wire (left) and the red/white (right) at the headlight connectors. If the test light lights, change the bulbs; if not go back to the under dash fuse box and test for power at the fuses like I explained before.
If this does happen to be the dimmer switch; it is part of the multi function switch and the assembly will need replacing.
No you do not need to remove the steering wheel to replace the switch; but you do need to contend with the air bag. Read up on how to disarm the system; the short version of this is to disconnect the battery and walk away for 10 or fifteen minutes. This will allow the systems back-up battery to go dead. Now with a grounding strap clipped to your shrit cuff and a known good vehicle ground (this will minimize static electricity); you’re likely now safe, as to not accidentally set off the air bag. Connect the battery for any reason or amount of time and the air bag system will become active again. Touch the wrong thing at the wrong time and you could become real familiar with what a four to five hundred pound punch in the face feels like.


Response From ls40095

Thank You so much...For the education also....Great job laying it all out....

I tested for power at the sockets and both were good.. Replaced the bulbs and presto...Previously owner was just a pig and did not maintain the car too well. Cant understand how someone could be so lazy...BTW...How do u reset the SRS light?....Someone told me HONDA can do it and that it can be reset.. I just assumed the light being on was an indication of the system working improperly (and it could be) Sometimes I have seen that after a bag replacement..Thanks again or should I re post the SRS question?


1975 Toyota Hilux - No headlights, then fire, then smoke. Now she won't turn over.

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From jstnz95 on 1975 Toyota Hilux - No headlights, then fire, then smoke. Now she won't turn over.

Hello my name is Justin, and here's what I have going on.
Any and all help is much appreciated.

Hilux (pickup)
2.2L (20R)
121k miles

(Skip down a ways to get to avoid the back story.)

I've been having trouble with my headlights for a while.
Running lights and indoor lights have worked fine though.

1st time: headlights went off but came back on after playing with the switch for a minute or two. The relay was also buzzing, but that went away when they finally came on.
2nd time: the switch wasn't enough to get them going or shut up the relay, so I unplugged the connector nearest the battery and cleaned it out a bit. They worked fine after that.
3rd time: the lug nuts of a car in oncoming traffic came off (40mph zone), and I was hit with a wheel on the right front side directly beneath battery and said connector. Pretty jarring impact. Headlights would not work at all after that. Relay continued to buzz when headlights were switched on.
Replaced relay. No dice. Still buzzing.
Decide it's the connector (40 years of corrosion whatnot).
Have no idea what I'm doing. Cut wire on both sides of connector and try to twist the two copper wires on the wiring side to the two sliver (steel or aluminum?) wires coming off the battery. Insulate with gorilla tape. Flip on lights. Headlights come on momentarily before both silver wires burn through. Again, have no idea what I'm doing, so I remove what remains of the silver wiring off the battery terminal and proceed then to use a length of 1/8" copper wire I have laying around.

------------------------Long story shortish---------------------------------

Secured 1/8" solid copper wire to + battery terminal. Wraped both copper headlight wires to 1/8" wire. Flipped on lights for 1 sec. Then off immediately. Headlights came on but lots of smoke and a little bit of fire. Headlights were still on with switch off. Waited about 10-15 sec before pulling the 2 small wires off the big one. Headlight turned off at that point. Insulation is melted with wires charred all the way to the relay. Relay was very hot and is now stuck into the connector.

Now no headlights, no running lights, no inside lights and no whirring sound when I turn the key half-way like I typically hear (maybe fuel pump?). Also, truck will not turn over.

Remaining wire bundles connecting and adjacent to the relay look good and were only warm.

Battery voltage is still good. Couldn't get a reading off the alternator, but I'm not sure if I'm connecting to it correctly. Wire going to starter is showing about 12.5v, but I couldn't get a reading off the starter either.

I'm slightly more educated on the subject of headlight connectors and wire current capacity, but have seemed to create a much larger problem and really don't know where to go at this point. Replacing the melted wiring might get my lights back, but I don't imagine that will get my engine turning over, whatever might be causing that.

If you have read this far, I salute you. Thanks so much for the help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

OMG! Undo everything you did so you have a chance after fixing the damage to find the original break. "Gorilla tape!"

Smoke, fire wiring hot, relay welded on now nothing works and you are surprised!!??

12.5V where?

At best with everything you did undone I think you may have to hunt for one of these in a salvage yard if anything left of a donor truck for plug ends.

No telling how much damage to assorted wires, some may be fusible link wire or not and will need to put things back to what it should be somehow or get some serious help as what you've done might just be the end of this thing time wise to figure out if no OE style plug connections are available leaving just some even good hackery.

For now, disconnect the negative cable from the battery and leave it off till you have a source of a harness or help for touching anything electrical.

I doubt this has an electric fuel pump but might even for a carbureted engine but for now that means little.

Job one is find parts and help. Sounds like you dead grounded some kind of Romex wire without any fuse direct to battery. Whatever you mean by 1/8th and the word "solid" are not motor vehicle wiring anything and must go if this is to get fixed at all,


Response From Discretesignals

Those wires that were originally there where probably fusible links. You have a short in the headlamp circuit..somewhere. Unless you have knowledge, equipment, and service information on the system your dealing with, I suggest you have a repair shop check it out before it burns to the ground.