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2011 Smart Fortwo Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Elring

P311-144FD5B    W0133-1933316  New

Qty:
31.14
Elring Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Elring
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2011 - Smart Fortwo GAS

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Head Machining

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From sirjinx on Head Machining

First off, my apologies to hammertime if I came off as brute in my last thread. I was responding smart alecky cause I thought you were being smart alecky with me. Hope you can forgive me. Truly sorry.

Second, I am replacing the head gasket in my automobile and will probably take my head to be machined. I already found a place that does it locally. My question is this:

Will I need to remove the whole rocker arm assembly for them to machine the head flat or can I leave everything on? Thank you in advance.

Response From zmame

not true if it's overhead cam you can leave it on.. I have no idea what your working on though. Alot of times the shop will take apart what they need to in order to service it.

Response From Mr.scotty Top Rated Answer

My machine shop told me that it would cost extra if they had to take stuff off and to have it stripped before you bring it in.
I guess Some are different..

Response From Mr.scotty

The whole head may have to be stripped down.
Atleast all the ones i've done had to be.

NEED HELP CHOOSING A CAR

Showing 3 out of 10 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From afgballer4life on NEED HELP CHOOSING A CAR

hi i am looking to buy a car for about 4-5k that will last me... I don't know if i should go for a BMW 3-Series or A 01-05 Civic
Im 19 and Ive been through 3 cars which have cost me alot of repairs
first car was a 1999 civic which had blown head gasket and transmission problems
2001 acura TL which transmission had to be replaced
and what i am driving now a 2000 civic si which i pay $450 monthly for insurance and which had its head gasket replaced twice and clutch which cost me about 2k in less than a year
i am a student so i don't have a huge budget so i need some advice on a car that will last me and be reliable and and ive been through many japanese cars
What do you guys think i should go
I am thinking about a 3 series BMW but i am scared of the parts and maintenaince expenses.... usually ive had a problem every 3 months with my car thats cost me atleast 300 dollars
Are BMW's that much more expensive to repair..and are the parts much more to expensive....
I found a 2002 BMW 320i 5 speed with 230 000 kms for 5k should i go for it
please helpppppp is really appreciated

Response From Discretesignals

Don't think you should buy the BMW. Parts are more expensive and so is the cost of repair.

What is wrong with the vehicle your driving now? If you looking for an investment, cars aren't the place for that unless you own something rare and desirable. No car, no matter what it is, isn't prone to having problems. Your better off sticking to the Honda you have. If you maintain and respect it, it will go for a long long time. Besides you'll need to money to pay off your college loan if you have one.

Response From afgballer4life

the car i have is a mess and i have some money and i wanna move up to another car
but i wanna know if E46 BMW 3 series models are reliable and are they much much more expensive for parts and repairs than hondas
i really wanna buy a BMW but i just want it to last and not break my wallet
thanks for the reply

Response From Hammer Time

i really wanna buy a BMW but i just want it to last and not break my wallet


That's like saying I want to walk out into the Interstate but I don't want to get hit by a car. .................. not likely

Response From afgballer4life Top Rated Answer



i really wanna buy a BMW but i just want it to last and not break my wallet


That's like saying I want to walk out into the Interstate but I don't want to get hit by a car. .................. not likely

i just want some help don't try to get smart with me... who do you think you are PLATO?
thanks everybody else for help

Response From Hammer Time

i just want some help don't try to get smart with me..

One of us has to be smart and it obviously isn't you.

Response From re-tired



i just want some help don't try to get smart with me









OH GAWD!!!!! HERE WE GO AGAIN


Response From nickwarner

At 19 you've already blasted apart head gaskets, transmissions and clutches of everything you've touched and with the rate you're talking about insurance you've definately rcked up your share of tickets and maybe accidents. To put it in perspective, my insurance is $70 a month with 4 OWI, 3 driving after revocation AND taking 5 sheriff deputies on a high speed chase 5 years ago resulting in a high speed wreck of my truck. You beat the living hell out of everything you own and while you may be footing the bill on this next car at least in part the only way you got the other ones was from the Bank of Mom and Dad. Wish my parents were so giving. Now in your quest for the next car to drag race down the street trying to reenact The Fast and the Furious you are thinking of a sport exotic that costs a damn nice chunk of change new and will fall apart under your driving. It'll be a great lawn ornament.

Civics have a very solid track record of being reliable and trouble free but with you behind the wheel I can think of no vehicle at any price that will stand up to your abuse. If you want your transportation to be reliable, become amish and get a horse. At least it will have the good sense to ignore you when you get the next dumb idea. Might even buck you off and knock that silver spoon loose.

Treat your vehicle like you treat a good woman. If you treat it well and respect it it'll be a great ride for years to come without too much drama. Beat the crap out of it and you won't have it anymore.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


i really wanna buy a BMW but i just want it to last and not break my wallet

Do you think it's a coincidence that B.M.W. could be a cute acronym for Break My Wallet? Stay with mainstream cars and have it checked out pre-purchase. Forget sport packages and toys that aren't there to get from point A to point B with the least hassles. You are paying more for just insurance than it costs me for all expenses on two vehicles for EVERY expense to own them. What gives with that? Ask now what that insurance cost alone will be for a BMW vs a Honda. BMW IMO is for people who have the budget and don't have to worry about that for a whimsical car. Leave those for later when price is not object, T

Response From Discretesignals

Ok...I'll give you an estimate on clutch replacement for a 3 series.

Here in the states it's over a $1000. With the mileage on the one your looking at clutch replacement could be soon if it hasn't been done already. The plastic coolant system parts and hose couplers are prone to cracking. They also tend to leak oil from the oil pan and they have problems with the crankcase ventilation systems along with vacuum leak issues when they get up in age. If you are absolutely bent on getting one, have your mechanic check it over before you consider buying it to see what your getting into.

OBD P0011, loud ticking under valve cover, and coolant in the oil! please help

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From cjkimberly83 on OBD P0011, loud ticking under valve cover, and coolant in the oil! please help

Ok guys, I'm workin on grandma's 08 Taurus V6. The first symptom was the check engine light, flagging P0011 camshaft adv timing bank 1. When I popped the hood there was a bad rattling/ticking noise from the valve covers. Upon checking the oil, I found coolant in it and the coolant reservoir empty. I figured it would be the head gasket so I topped off the coolant and started the car. No bubbles from the reservoir and compression check was good. Please help I'm stumped.

Response From cjkimberly83

I finally got back to working this vehicle tonight. The engine is a Duratec 3.5 V6. Once I realized the water pump was behind the front cover, driven by the timing chain, I went for that first. With the front cover off, I was able to pressurize the coolant system to 5psi and I could hear the water pump leaking past the bearing seal. New pump is on order and hopefully the rest of the engine is ok... Camshaft / lifter ticking was probably from water in the system instead of oil, hopefully it goes away. Thanks for the good advice guys.

Response From Hammer Time

You want to be very careful here. You are venturing into an area that requires extensive understanding and some special tools.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - there's the source I guess. Duh - change out oil well and warm up and recheck or waste first oil and change again filter and all and cross fingers that noise was just weird pressures for parts of the mix of coolant and oil and will not be damage. Not so sure you'll know for sure right away but soon after it's back to pure oil only and oil pressure isn't off by something like clogged up pick-up screen with goo which kinda suggests it was run a long time all mixed up if so,


T

Response From Hammer Time

Has it got an engine oil cooler? I don't see a pressure test exposing much if it's leaking into engine oil.

Response From cjkimberly83

With the valve covers off, maybe I could hear the air bleeding thru? Wishful thinking maybe, but worth a try

Response From Hammer Time

With coolant getting into oil there aren't very many places accessible to see to be able to diagnose anything unless it's a cracked head and the pressure test shows it with the valve cover off.. Other than that you can't see anything.

We don't know which engine you have but if it's the "U" OHV, it could be a timing cover leaking.

Response From kev2

I mentioned removing the spark plugs- might help localize the leak- a clue I was hoping

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arggh! Test as much and see as much as you can while it's intact. Again, either change out oil for testing and remove pressure cap for running a bit if needed.


I just sense this both overheated and ignored AND oil level despite mixed was way too high alone could be breaking things and mixed up not drawing up that gucky stuff for any lubrication or very little for way longer than perhaps some people would allow if your grandparents just didn't know but could be anyone at any age.


You have a mystery IMO and can only start looking for what got or took the hit to make the noise. So far I'm not coming up with much for why it seems you hear it up top and I would figure lower first.


Be ready and best to know before you go wild both work and bucks if it happens to be a lost cause and too late for that engine??


T

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Upon checking the oil, I found coolant in it and the coolant reservoir empty. I figured it would be the head gasket so I topped off the coolant and started the car.


That wasn't very smart. You probably ruined the rest of the engine that way. Coolant doesn't work very well for lubrication.

Response From kev2

a hail mary to try and save engine- don't know extent of problem lets not make it worse

without spending alot of money-
do not run engine- fill coolant system then use a cooling system pressure tester and try to determine where the coolant is leaking.... maybe removing the spark plugs will yeild a clue.
Also remove the valve cover on the side of engine that is making noise... observe if anything broken, missing, metal pieces etc.

Response From cjkimberly83

Valve covers came off last night and all looks good, nothing obvious anyway. I will see if O'Reillys has that pressure tester, thanks

Response From cjkimberly83

I see your point. It was really a couple seconds before we turned it off, I figured they drove it to me like that so I couldn't hurt it any with the short time I ran it. What I'm wondering now though is if the head gasket could allow coolant into the oil but not through the top of the cylinder...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

3 cents to add to this coming disaster: Don't let even lousy mix be too high on oil dipstick to even crank it or idle for a second or two. It may have been like this for a while so no telling just yet if broken parts AND a head gasket. I tend to doubt this has an engine oil cooler in radiator but who knows on that either - trans yes, engine oil is doubtful IMO inside radiator,


T

Response From kev2

I am an optimist :) hoping it is not a ruined engine- thinking is - locate leak then access feasible repair costs, do NOT make it worse by running eng,

2003 Elantra having overheating issues

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From ashleyashley on 2003 Elantra having overheating issues

I'm looking for advice on whether to repair or not. My elderly mother has a 2003 Hyndai Elantra with 100k miles on it. We bought it from a shady car dealership (mistake we've had to learn a hard lesson from) last year. Since then, the radiator has burst (fixed radiator cap as well), then a few months later the upper radiator hose burst. Both times the mechanic checked for head gasket leaks and said he found nothing.

Today, the bypass hose burst open. It's $160 to fix, including coolant flush. At this point, she simply needs a car to get her to and from doctors and senior activities -- she is extremely low income and can't afford a new car. I'm struggling with what to do. Why would all of these things go wrong if not for a faulty engine? The mechanic says it could just be bad hoses because it's a 12 year old car ... is this possible? The car does not overheat until these things end up going bad. It does tend up heat up quickly, but it doesn't go above where it should be ever.

Any advice is much appreciated -- I know the smart answer is to junk the car and replace, but since she cannot do that, I'm at a loss as to if fixing this is a bad idea.

Response From Discretesignals

Yes, hoses have a life span and 10 years is about it. They may look good on the outside, but are not looking good inside. The bypass hose on those get hard as a rock with age and use. Radiators cracking and leaking is common. The expansion and contraction of the plastic side tanks eventually causes them to crack. Especially up near the upper rad hose connection.

I'm just surprised they didn't recommend to replace all the hoses when one blew out, especially on a Hyundai.

Response From ashleyashley

Thank you! I meant to add, the car has lost heating only once and today, before the hose burst, the car stalled during idle.

Are there any other tests that could prove a head gasket faulty? It seems like I have to get the hose fixed to rule out any additional problems at this point, but last time the combustion test showed no leaks.

Thanks again for any help!

Response From Hammer Time

There are a few different ways to test for a head gasket but unfortunately, many of them are a bit unreliable and inconclusive. The one way I found to be very reliable and accurate is to use an exhaust analyzer to sniff the hydrocarbons at the filler cap with the engine at operating temp.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Tough call and as DS said why weren't all hoses done when first one blew out? That with radiator the cap probably couldn't release pressure first and possible oil from transmission weakened rubber hoses but should have all been noted.
Head gasket diag could be tough too as HT said.


I hear you, money short and perhaps you are paying for this up to needing the head gasket job, any other hoses or items not up to date.


Think of it like this: If you give up on it you know you'll get almost nothing for it so you are now faced with plain cost of transportation to fix this or get another something - right? You already know or should more about this car and think I'd fix this one rather than take on another and new unknown problems all over again,


T

Oil in Radiator

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From Matt1312020 on Oil in Radiator

Quite simply, there is oil in the radiator. Other than that there seems to be nothing else wrong with the car. Drives normally, no weird noises, and no coolant is leaking into the oil, just oil into the coolant. I don't know where to start.

Car is a 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer. 1.8L engine, roughly 110,000km on the clock.

Any advice or information is appreciated.

Response From Discretesignals

Automatic or manual transaxle?

Response From Matt1312020

It's a manual.

Response From Discretesignals

Has this ever overheated?

Tom pretty much summed it up. If you are getting oil in the radiator, it has to be coming from the engine. There could be a leak between an oil and coolant port of the head gasket or some type of crack in the head allowing oil to get into the coolant system. The reason it doesn't go the other way is because there is more oil pressure than coolant pressure.

Response From Hammer Time

The reason it doesn't go the other way is because there is more oil pressure than coolant pressure.


Until the engine is shut of hot. Then it tends to go the other way.

Response From Discretesignals

That would depend on how it leaks too. If the leak acts as a check valve it can cause oil to flow one way and coolant can't flow the other or maybe it takes a lot more pressure than coolant pressure to make the leak occur.


Believe it or not I had a 3.8L Regal in the shop that had oil in the radiator, but no coolant in the oil. The transmission cooler was fine, but the intake gaskets were shot. Somehow the oil from the valley was getting picked up into the coolant system through the intake gaskets. After replacing the intake gaskets the oil in the coolant stopped. The only thing I can theorize is that the flow of coolant through the passage in the gasket created a sucking effect that drew in oil vapors from the lifter valley. Very weird. Of course, I don't see this happening on a non V type engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry DS for stepping on you one simple question but thinking like you I hope with this type thing. Done with that till fixed.


OP - know that real oils in cooling system when fixed may not be all done with work yet. Cooling system rubber parts do NOT tolerate oil well anywhere from the pressure caps, seals in a water pump, hoses that carry coolant only for their job. Most issues if any you could feel soft cooling system hoses and know it was invasive in some time AFTER all is fixed. No telling if early if anything will be needed or not quite yet if new,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Your right, oil in the coolant system is going to turn the hoses and other rubber components into mush eventually. The hardest part is flushing the system of oil after the repair. Sometimes it takes many many flushes. We've been successful with using simple green mixed with water. I've heard other's using cascade dish washing powder, but either way it is going to take a lot of flushing.

Response From Matt1312020

Thanks for all the advice. I've only owned the car a short time so was unsure if it's been overheated in the past or not. Since my initial post I've started noticing some misfires while driving, and so we did a compression test and one of the cylinders was a little low. We got into contact with the previous owner and they admitted that it has overheated, and they had to pull the thing apart to replace the head gasket right before selling it. So we've got a new head gasket in there already apparently. I could easily be wrong since I have little experience with cars, but this leads me to believe it is almost certainly a cracked head :/

I think the best option right now would probably be just to buy a new motor. Your thoughts?

EDIT: Have been flushing the cooling system regularly to try and avoid the build up of much oil in the radiator to try and prevent damage to the cooling system. Took the thermostat out to try and flush the system better but it seems it's already wrecked the seal on the thermostat. Will definitely be keeping an eye out for anything else in the near future.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

If you have the money, putting a good low mileage used engine or even a new engine would be a smart move. Especially if you want to keep the vehicle for a long time.

When an engine overheats like that, there is no telling what kind of damage was done. You might fix the oil leaking into the coolant problem by installing another head, but later on the engine might start burning oil because the rings are cracked. If the engine had overheated and had coolant in the oil, but they fixed the blown head gasket and flushed the bottom end out, it could end up with a knocking later on from damaged engine bearings. Just too many things that can go wrong or unknowns when an engine is overheated. Starting off with a clean slate would be a wise choice.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Matt: Dunno where DS is hiding so I'll try based on his question. Automatics frequently use an end tank in radiator for cooling transmission fluid, standards not so much. Look anyway at radiator end tanks for anything that might carry oil in and out - engine or other. Doubt transaxle oil - look anyway.


If any oil cooled in those mixes in it will usually make like a milky mess and oils easily harm cooling system rubber too. Worse is coolant getting into items that are using oil. Fix is what went which way that might be harmed and radiator is at fault - new one only, not fixed.


Check if you find lines and to what and that item(s) cooled by that oil if coolant mixed in there.


Would be an awful mistake if somehow oil of any kind was put in radiator by mistake but guess could happen. Other is possible engine gasket (head?) could mix up there but don't hear of that much on anything. Do look, it's real important to get this fixed ASAP,


T