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Genuine
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Genuine

P311-561C931    W0133-1834033  New

Qty:
$392.08
Genuine Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Gasket Kit - Less Valve Seals
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1998 - Oldsmobile Intrigue Base
Genuine
1997 Oldsmobile Regency Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Genuine

P311-561C931    W0133-1834033  New

Qty:
$392.08
Genuine Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 2nd Design - Gasket Kit - Less Valve Seals
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Oldsmobile Regency
ACDelco
1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 2.2L ACDelco

P311-4BAE6B7    W0133-1682738  New

Qty:
$49.74
ACDelco Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Base Sedan L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2190
Victor Gaskets
1974 Oldsmobile Omega Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 8 Cyl 5.7L Victor Gaskets

P311-134D25A    1178BS  New

3758440 , 3836498 , 3830711 , 7733SH-1 , HG31600 , 3911088 , 1564448 , 3995633 , 3748768 , 3783631 , 3731324

Qty:
$10.63
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • MAHLE Performance Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Beaded Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter: 4.10
    • Grade Type: Performance
    • Thickness: 0.020
    • Unit of Measure: Cc
    • Volume: 4.1
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1974 - Oldsmobile Omega V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Victor Gaskets
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 4.3L Victor Gaskets

P311-1E2121F    5744  New

10066080B , 522SD , 510SD , 035-2000 , 10105110 , 9354 PT-1 , 10066080 , HG32680 , 12552362

Qty:
$12.43
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Single-Sided Graphite
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: None
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Single-sided Graphite
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Victor Gaskets
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.1L Victor Gaskets

P311-291B90A    54059  New

12577403 , 24507249 , HG34000 , 9957 PT , 10227595 , 511SD

Qty:
$15.53
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Graphite
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Graphite
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme V 6 Cyl 3.1L 189 -
Victor Gaskets
1998 Oldsmobile Regency Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Right 6 Cyl 3.8L Victor Gaskets

P311-1FC3BDD    5912  New

HG34385 , 24503801 , 9918 PT

Qty:
$20.25
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Right
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Graphite
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Graphite
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Oldsmobile Regency Right V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Victor Gaskets
2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.4L Victor Gaskets

P311-237AA9D    4956  New

9071 PT , 12589907 , HG34450 , 10227596 , 24507250

Qty:
$21.19
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Graphite
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Graphite
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Oldsmobile Silhouette V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Victor Gaskets
2004 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 4 Cyl 2.2L Victor Gaskets

P311-282E47B    54440  New

26223 PT , 24444091

Qty:
$56.99
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
  • MAHLE Original® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Oldsmobile Alero L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
ACDelco
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Cylinder Head Gasket ACDelco

P311-361A093    W0133-1687741  New

Qty:
$34.96
ACDelco Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Head Gasket Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

no compression in 86 oldsmobile engine

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on no compression in 86 oldsmobile engine

replaced head gasket and have no compression in the engine what so ever. the pistons are not ceased and the firing order is correct. everything is moving in time so i don think it is the timing chain. but i cant figure out why there is no compression
-valence

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ok - it's an Oldsmobile - any particular one?

Put a cylinder on TDC and use compressed air in plug hole and you'll see where the compression went. If this ran it strongly points to valve timing being way off (chain/belt) and probably an interferance engine

T

HELP!1998 oldsmobile aurora overheating

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From suzanner on HELP!1998 oldsmobile aurora overheating

Help please car is overheating. Done all compression tests, new water pump, new raditor, thermostat was rusted solid removed and did not put new one in--thinking it would help to keep the engine cool. Could not replacing the thermostat cause it to overheat? Or any other suggestions? Thanks suzy. Personal contact info removed.

Response From Hammer Time

There are dozens of reasons for overheating, depending on the condition of the cooling system and yes, it does require a thermostat at all times.

Response From Discretesignals

thermostat was rusted solid

That's not a good thing. You flush the engine and coolant system out before replacing the radiator?

Does it overheat sitting at a light or while cruising?

Response From suzanner

Thanks for the feedback. Car didn't run for a year. It overheats while sitting.

Response From Discretesignals

Do the electrical cooling fans come on when it is getting hot? If you have the ac turned on, do the fans come on?

Response From suzanner

When it reaches 190-200 low coolant light clicks on as well as fans.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you flush out the system really well, including the heater core?

Response From suzanner

Yes I did n still overheating.

Response From Discretesignals

When the fans come on, is the air blowing out of the fans hot? Feel the heater hoses. Are they hot?

Response From suzanner

Heater hose is hot and building pressure. Fans are blowing cold. If there is any trapped air in the system will that cause it to overheat.

Response From Discretesignals

Makes us wonder why it was sitting so long.

Yes, that will definitely cause it to overheat. If there is combustion gases getting into the coolant system, no amount of bleeding is going to work. A cylinder leak down test can reveal if there is a head gasket problem, cracked head, or cracked cylinder wall. You'll see bubbles in the coolant system when you pressures the cylinder. Compression tests may not give you an indication if the leak is small.



Some of techs use vacuum coolant lift system to do refills on those, because they do like to trap air sometimes.

Here is the service procedure:

FILLING PROCEDURE

1. Close the radiator drain cock.

NOTICE: When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL@ or HAVOLINE DEX-COOL@ coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOLS or HAVOLINE DEX-COOL@ is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 miles) or 24 months.

NOTICE: Do not use a solution stronger than 70% antifreeze. Pure antifreeze can freeze at -22°C (-8°F).

NOTICE: This engine uses DEX-COOLS and GM coolant supplement (sealant) P/N 3634621 specifically designed for use in aluminum engines. Failure to use the engine coolant supplement (sealant) and the approved coolant antifreeze could result in major engine damage.

When refilling the cooling system, add three pellets of the engine coolant supplement sealant GM P/N 3634621 to lower the radiator hose.

2. Refill the cooling system. In order to ensure sufficient Cooling System, freezing and corrosion protection, maintain the coolant protection level at -37°C (-34°F) or lower.

3. Set the heater and A/C control in any A/C mode except MAX. Set the temperature to the highest setting.

4. Allow the engine to continue idling until the lower radiator to coolant pump hose becomes hot.

5. Cycle the engine speed up to about 3,000 RPM and back to idle 5 times. On the VIN 1 engines, slowly open the bleed valve on the rear of the thermostat housing for about 15 seconds in order to release any trapped air in the cooling system.

6. After the air has been released, fill the radiator. Install the radiator pressure cap/surge tank. The arrows on the radiator pressure cap must line up with the coolant recovery tube.

7. Allow the engine to cool to the outside temperature. Check the coolant level. If the coolant level is not at the Add (of Full Cold) mark, add coolant until the coolant reaches the mark.

Response From suzanner Top Rated Answer

If there's 210 lbs pressure per cylinder and they all hold steady with no leaks will that void out a head gasket. It has good compression in all cylinders.

Response From Discretesignals

The static compression pressure in the cylinders doesn't hold because the pressure will bleed off through the rings. An engine's cylinder isn't perfectly sealed. The reason the pressure stays where it is on your gauge is because it has a check valve in it. This means you could have great compression, but still could be getting gasses into the coolant system.

A leak down test actually pressurizes the cylinders with compressed air. The tester tells you the leak down rate of the cylinder. Since it is using compressed air, it keeps the cylinder pressurized and any leaks going into the coolant system will show up as bubbling in the reservoir.

Response From suzanner

Heater hose is hot and building pressure

86 oldsmobile

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 86 oldsmobile

its a 5.0 v8 86 oldsmobile cutlass supreme and there is no compression in any cylinder. the firing order is correct, nothing seems to be out of place. the valves are moving and the pistons are moving and it doesn't appear to jump time. when trying to turn over it just whizzes over and won't fire. example would be if you took the spark plugs out of a regular working motor and tried to turn it over. and all the spark plugs work. i am puzzled and don know what could be wrong
-valence

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

Lost of compression...bad compression rings/ bad valves,head gasket, did you use a compression tester, adding oil to the cylinders would let you know if the rings are bad....just a table spoon to each one,...if compression jumps up quickly its the rings and if nothing changes.....valves?

1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

Showing 5 out of 8 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From workman1974 on 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

HI,

I have an 1998 Olds Aurora that is over heating and I can not find the problem. I have checked: The radiator fans work, the thermostat works, and the water looks like it is turn but did not open it up to check in detail. I did notice that the hose going to the water pump was cold, is that normal, and the other hose was hot, so the thermostat seems to open. I bought a cleaner to flush and clean the system but have not done it yet. I know it could be the head gasket but I see no leaks and it does not seem to lose any fluid? How can I check out for the head gasket? Thanks for all your help and input, Thanks Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Lower hose cold is normal and upper warm/hot, normal. The other observations suggest thermostat and radiator are basically working - how well still unknown.

Ok: It's overheating so what are you noticing other than just the gauge? Don't allow it to overheat if at all possible. Is coolant level proper at recovery tank? This car may or may not have a cap on the radiator itself but it may not be full there. It should be totally full all the time there out of your sight of course. Heater might not blow heat is a clue that coolant level is low, full of air or air bubbles from overheating or from gasses getting into cooling system thru failed head gasket.

Some tests are: Pressure test cooling system, check that radiator is full even if removing a hose up high is the only way. From cold, feel pressure at upper hose (nothing when cold) and feel if it pressures up real quickly - before it even has time to warm up and that's a clue that gasses are getting into cooling system. It normally builds up pressure as it warms up but not right off the bat.

If the system never builds up pressure or loses it quickly from a normal temp when shut down then it might be leaking out of sight or burning it thru head gasket and small amounts at a time don't always show themselves.

Flushing wouldn't hurt but I don't think that's the whole problem just yet. Let me/us know what you find and again DON'T allow overheating as that's just insult to injury,

T

Response From workman1974

HI Tom,

Thank you for all your input. I do not want it to overheat or try getting it that hot so I have been trying to be care with it so I do not warp a head or crack it. This car does not have a radiator cap, only on the recovery tank. Yes the fluid is fine. I had off the cap on the take to see if I would get any gas bubbles at idle, I did not notice any there but that does not mean gas in not getting in the system. I did notice after about 10 minutes I seen vapor or smoke coming out of the tank, not much and the gauge in the car was only about 150 so I was not sure what it was doing that for at that moment. I took it for a drive to get it to heat more fast and I return and had more pressure and fluid coming out of the recovery tank, maybe that cap is bad too not sure. I want to do a pressure test but do not know if I can with this system only having a screw cap on the recovery tank, I will go tomorrow and see if I can get a pressure tester for that car. I will also check on the top hose and see if the pressure builds up fast, thank you, I never had heard of that one. So tomorrow I will do more testing to see what it really is doing. Also do you or anyone know if "Alldatadiy" is a good site for diagrams, making repairs info, and codes for cars, is it worth the money, thanks again for all your help. Thanks Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The guys here have assorted info so ask away with a new thread for different concerns. The All Data stuff is available thru them for a price - programs for all cars are expensive and I don't have direct access to them.

Libraries frequently do!

Pressure tester can be rented (free I think) from AutoZone or similar chain type parts stores.

It makes it tough when cars put the pressure cap on the recovery tank and more cars are doing that instead of on the radiator. It's fine but complicates how to know the rad is actually full itself or for burping out air when you do anything with the cooling system.

I'm concerned that you've noticed vapors at the recovery tank which is part of the pressure controlled system in this car. It shouldn't even be warm coolant over there in 10 minutes yet??

You do understand the concept of the recovery tanks - right? You know - they take air and whatever from the engine and radiator thru a small hose to the bottom of that tank which is supposed to only return liquid back when system cools, contracts and sucks it back - the idea is air out, liquid back all the time which means the rad and engine are supposed to always be free of air or any vapor. Air and or vapors will expand quickly and blow coolant in the way out to and up over the recovery tanks when things get messed up.

As you know air doesn't exchange heat worth a diddle so the engine overheats.

If it is a head gasket problem so be it. Best to minimize further damage and surely best to diagnose it right as it's a lot of $$ and effort to be wrong with that one!

Keep observing and see what a pressure test can find for you,

T

Response From workman1974

HI Tom,

OK, I check the upper hose cold had no pressure and then I started the car and run it for a few minutes and I could still squeeze the upper hose, I noticed it got a little harder but not much at all. I did the pressure test with a tester and gauge, the car says 15 psi so I had it full with fluid and tested at 15 psi, after about 6 minutes it did drop but only to 14 psi and then held there, which I thought it would lose more pressure. Is there a good way to check the water pump better, The belt is tight, the outside of the pump pulley turns, but I have not open it up. I am not sure what else to do now, I know a person that is a mechanic the will replace the head gasket cheaper at his home then at the garage he works at, so I do not know what to do right now, any suggestions now? thanks Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's good news but inconclusive with the pressure test. Hoses will expand a bit and drop a pound so that doesn't mean a leak. Unfortunately you should only pressure it to the cap's rating and the pressures on combustion can be in the hundreds and need that much pressure to leak or only does it at a certain temp and some only leak one direction to cause as much hair loss as possible as you are finding out!

If you still have the pressure tester, put in on and start the engine. Watch it from cold go up - it will but not so fast as you noted by hand. NOW WATCH IT UP TO THE RATED PRESSURE AND DON'T LET IT EXCEED THAT. Realease pressure from the device carefully and let it go again if it continues to rise when alread warmed up then that does point to the head gasket. You must be careful as releasing pressure can cause coolant to flash boil and you don't want to get burned by that. Use judgment and if it continues to build up I'd call it a diagnosis for a bad head gasket.

For water pump: Without look at it's fins and seeing that they either don't spin for some reason or are corroded down to an inadequate amount it might behave at low speeds or only high speeds or something. That problem is rare and not the first place to suspect but you shouldn't just assume it works properly. If coolant can flow to radiator and return thru it cooler at lower hose it must be doing something. Also, heater would not work well if water pump wasn't pumping but that could be air in system also.

Then there's the sniffer or detection stuff for exhaust/combustion gasses in the coolant and reservior things that may help close in on the diag. Can you friend help you pin this down for you to speed up the process of blaming a head gasket or not? I hate to see you be without a car over this any longer than needed but also don't want to rush out on the headgasket diag without being pretty dang sure.

For now try again with the pressure tester but as I said don't let it exceed that 15lbs. It will normally it allowed and then some other weak link will have a problem - enough hair loss already - right?

Another thing is to look at the spark plugs. One or more might be very different than the others and then pressure tests thru plug hole or compression testing can help.

Lot's of this stuff is second nature for those of us who have worked on stuff for all these years and it's hard to pin quickly and I'm half brain dead sometimes and might be missing some suggestion! This is hands on forum work, not just point, click, copy and paste some universal textbook something.

See what else you can find or notice and let's see what we can nail down,

T

Response From workman1974

HI Tom,

I did the pressure test with the car running and the PSI kept raising, so really everything I have done leads to head gaskets. I researched a lot online and found the the threads in the block for the head bolts go bad for this car and can cause a leak as well, This takes a repair plug kit to fix that, so I am really thinking to have that done and repair the gasket while they are doing that. I really feel this is the problem from all the test and from all your help. Thank you for all your help and I will have this guy repair those things on it. I was told from his friend he would repair the head gaskets for $250 because he does this everyday at work so he can do it so good now and so much he must think about it in his sleep. I have never heard of any one to do it for that price, so I need to speak with him first but it sound and looks like it is very easy for my car. Not a lot of things to take of to get to it. So it is easy to unassemble and not take a lot of time. I will have to let you know what he tells me after I speak with him. thanks again for all your help, You have helped me a lot, thanks Brian

Response From Tom Greenleaf

the diag is closing in isn't it? You've done well to get all the info you could on this. True - some cars have bolts known for breaking, one time use only (kind of self torqued with one stretch) and things that someone who does this a lot will know and allow it to be done right and be done with this.

There's one thing worse than needing this job is to rush to diagnose it and then find out it wasn't the problem at all!

Good luck with the fix,

T

Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From xdxbatmanxcx on Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

hi. i was reading your post. im having similar problems myself. i just put in a new thermostat and its working fine and it has a newer water pump just put on last year. my car keeps jumping up to temp's nearing the orange line which is bad. is it the head gaskets then? because i dont know of any reason my car would over heat. the fan's working the water pump is working. i was told it could have a bad seal so next weekend im gonna go have it looked at. but i do not understand why it gets hot. it has smoke coming out of the resivouir when i take the cap off so can you help me out with this?? i would greatly appreciate it.


darren

Response From Tom Greenleaf

For the moment seeing smoke/steam at reservoir is not conclusive with it running hot for reasons to be found still.

It must be known full of coolant first and foremost. Not just the reservoir but the radiator. Generally if heater works there's an adequate level of coolant for some info. If not dig in and determine whether there's air in the system. Head gaskets can add air as well as small leaks can leave a reservoir full or too full and suck air in thru the leak. Head gaskets can add combustion pressured vapor (essentially air) into cooling system and cause this. That can usually be detected by feeling upper rad hose from a cold start noting no pressure when cold and if pressure is felt quickly - like within a minute or two that's too fast and more testing needed.

I don't think this model has a radiator cap on the radiator which makes it difficult to know it's full. When no pressure is in system it may bubble at reservoir when squeezing upper hose for instance and should only move coolant - no air bubbles seen.

Seems like everything else works so it could also be a clogged radiator that just can't transfer heat well anymore. Flushing whole system can be very telling and good for it.

Again - run heater on full temp request and that's a good indicator of engine temp up to boiling where heat will quit (just trust me) - if no heat is available it's usually air with the symptoms you've posted,

T

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

ok thank you both. i dont know much about cars thats why i figured id check around. i am gonna take it to a shop monday to see whats going on. i had it at a shop and they were supposed to flush it or w/e to get all air out but idk. and i did flush the system out tho when i put in a new thermostat because i put in some gook (idk how to spell the word) and i had to make sure all coolant was out before doing so. but i noticed you said something about the heat. i've noticed it will be hot for a minute then cold the next. the car has a .... idk info screen if you will.. that tells you low coolant low oil ect.. and it keeps sayin coolant even tho i put it in. i was told i gotta put in a code to get it to stop sayin low so that i can actually tell when its low but idk how to obtain this code. i do not have owner manual so i probably going to have to search the net. but everytime i turn the air onto defrost the a/c light comes on and i only can turn it off if i switch it to feet where the heat comes from.. and i have the temp set at 90 and it still goes from hot to cold. so are you saying there is still air?? and as for the nose bleed lol yeah my buddy said take the cap off let it run see if the air will come out like a burp lol. but i am gonna investigate this more. would anyone happen to know a price on how much it would cost if it were head gaskets? i have a friend who has a shop but b4 asking because we're not "that close" i wanna make sure i know an area of the price. thank you for you time i really do appreciate it alot

darren

Response From Tom Greenleaf

darren: I'd bet right now the up front problem is air in the system and it still needs purging, burping and it isn't always that easy. Like Loren said you have to keep trying, jack up vehicle where you put coolant in can help a lot. There are purge plugs on some usually near thermostat. Sometimes taking a hose off and filling there first from low or empty.

The second the heater quits it's late (try to stop engine before that if temp needle or indication of too hot some other light or something) you have to shut it down till cool again as if things are ok (don't know that yet) it will draw coolant back from the fill/reservoir as it cools - just sitting there, engine off and coolant contracting. It can take several cycles of this - a whole case of brew, several cigars and a "Partridge in a Pear Tree" to get this right and something still may be wrong with it. That's why they have so many hair replacement clinics! There are special tools that really speed up filling a system - especially those with no cap on the radiator, using vacuum and a kit that switches over so only coolant goes in.

Sealer (gook, goo,gunky junk, stuff to seal, block seal....) in there is not a good sign and if you or someone did that to cover something up it usually doesn't last AND usually becomes it's own problem!

Back: As soon as heater quits it's either boiling or just has passed a bubble further along and if you are in fact boiling or too hot in engine you defeat all the purging you already did and start over! That's why we make the big bucks!

Here's a link I wrote with info here at this site + from others too on purging air - especially for DIYers.....

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...ling_Systems_P36410/

You probably have a light to indicate low coolant and it senses that on the radiator and you can't see if there's liquid or air there but it does.

The A/C light is possibly low refrigerant and not really anything to be involved in with just the cooling system and engine running temps right now. Take that as a separate issue completely as it's separate to this problem.

Head gaskets are frequently a maybe and makes it harder to know at first if filling the system is difficult to begin with like this car is. Gasses can be detected at the fill reservoir for exhaust/combustion gasses which is a serious clue of troubles.

If it's that much trouble for you then you should seek professional help and a diagnosis if it doesn't behave.

Cost of head gasket job will vary and needs a damage assessment before you can get a quote. Expect a lot of bucks if it needs those or tons of bucks if bad enough!

T

Response From xdxbatmanxcx Top Rated Answer

okay well im going to take it and see what they have to say. but i do appreciate all the help

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

ok guys i found out my problem.. my fan isnt working.. i replaced the fuse to start with and that worked.. BUT.. doing so a wire started smoking and stopped the fan.. so i replaced the wire and it worked.. BUT.. then another wire smoked.. when it was on the fan was running super speed.. the car was not even hot and the fan was flying.. i wanna assume the wires were not big enough gauge to hold the power it generated thats why they got to hot.. i also am not a mechanic but i am gonna assume that it was a rig job on whomever had the car and tried to fix the fan. but i think that it needs a switch or sensor to make the fan go slower and turn off.. because i noticed it wouldnt shut off.. so with all this being said do either of you have any suggestions?? tomor i am going to a shop but would like to hear from you guys before if possible.. thank you for your time


darren

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If wiring has been altered you are going to have to see what doesn't look original. Fan working when not even called for could be that you have defroster, defog or something on - turn the climate controls off for testing or leave on heat only or vent only. Fans can be triggered with a defrost request.

Melted wire insulation! Ack! The motor may be drawing too much current or the gauge of wire really is under size. If splicing in new wire certainly try to get right gauge and color if at all possible. There could also be a relay that's burned, stuck causing fan to stay on.

With hacked wiring it opens the book for lots of possibilities. Keep things fused with proper amp fuses if any blow while working with this,

T

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

will do i'm gonna have some stuff checked out today thanks for the help again tom much appreciation

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Darren; You replaced the thermostat because of the overheating problem? On some vehicles, it is very easy, and a very common mistake to install them backwards. Assuming that is not the problem, are you certain that you've bled all of the air out of the cooling system. Again, this can be a real pain. I've had to raise the front of a car up so high that it got a nose bleed. Seriously, though, it really can be a pain getting all of the air out. Head gaskets; It is a fairly easy test. You can take it to a shop that has a gas analyzer and have them 'sniff' the coolant reservoir for hydrocarbons. Or, most of the parts stores sell a chemical that will do the same. Changes from a blue color to yellow if exhaust gases are present.