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Victor Gaskets
1999 Infiniti QX4 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket 6 Cyl 3.3L Victor Gaskets

P311-3DCD46F    54393  New

26219 PT , 11044-0W000 , 035-1956 , 11044-7B000

Qty:
$17.65
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Graphite
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 3.71
      • 94.23
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Graphite
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Composite
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Thickness:
      • 0.05
      • 1.32
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Infiniti QX4 V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3275
Victor Gaskets
2004 Infiniti G35 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Right 6 Cyl 3.5L Victor Gaskets

P311-31AE618    54425  New

11044-8J102 , 26240 PT

Qty:
$32.75
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Right
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 3.79
      • 96.14
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Thickness:
      • 0.02
      • 0.56
    • Torque To Yield: Yes
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Body Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Infiniti G35 Automatic Sedan Right V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Victor Gaskets
2002 Infiniti I35 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Left 6 Cyl 3.5L Victor Gaskets

P311-4182A33    54424  New

26239 PT , 11044-8J107

Qty:
$34.80
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Left
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Multi-Layered Steel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 3.79
      • 96.14
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Thickness:
      • 0.02
      • 0.56
    • Torque To Yield: Yes
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Infiniti I35 Left V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Victor Gaskets
2003 Infiniti G35 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Right 6 Cyl 3.5L Victor Gaskets

P311-31AE618    54425  New

11044-8J102 , 26240 PT

Qty:
$32.75
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Right
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Multi-Layered Steel To 08/02
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 3.79
      • 96.14
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Thickness:
      • 0.02
      • 0.56
    • Torque To Yield: Yes
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Body Position Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Infiniti G35 VQ35DE Coupe Right V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Victor Gaskets
2003 Infiniti G35 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket - Left 6 Cyl 3.5L Victor Gaskets

P311-4182A33    54424  New

26239 PT , 11044-8J107

Qty:
$34.80
Victor Gaskets Engine Cylinder Head Gasket  Left
  • Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Multi-Layered Steel To 08/02
  • Product Attributes:
    • Additional Package Contents: Head Gasket
    • Cylinder Bore Diameter:
      • 3.79
      • 96.14
    • Cylinder Head Gasket Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Gasket Sealant Included: No
    • Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Material: Multi-layered Steel
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Thickness:
      • 0.02
      • 0.56
    • Torque To Yield: Yes
  • MAHLE® gaskets provide world class sealing products trusted by OEMs & Technicians around the globe.
Brand: Victor Gaskets
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Infiniti G35 Coupe Left V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Mahle
2002 Infiniti Q45 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mahle

P311-483F27F    W0133-1970748  New

Qty:
$75.49
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Production: 01/01/2001-
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Infiniti Q45 Fr:01-01-01
Mahle
2006 Infiniti M45 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mahle

P311-483F27F    W0133-1970748  New

Qty:
$75.49
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Infiniti M45
Mahle
2002 Infiniti Q45 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mahle

P311-581E100    W0133-1970747  New

Qty:
$62.01
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Production: 01/01/2001-
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Infiniti Q45 Fr:01-01-01
Mahle
2007 Infiniti FX45 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mahle

P311-581E100    W0133-1970747  New

Qty:
$62.01
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Infiniti FX45
Mahle
1997 Infiniti QX4 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mahle

P311-053A33F    W0133-1625681  New

Qty:
$23.00
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Left/Right
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Infiniti QX4
Mahle
1999 Infiniti QX4 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mahle

P311-053A33F    W0133-1625681  New

Qty:
$23.00
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Infiniti QX4
Mahle
2000 Infiniti QX4 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Mahle

P311-053A33F    W0133-1625681  New

Qty:
$23.00
Mahle Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • ; Production: -12/1999
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Infiniti QX4 To:12-00-99
Ishino Stone
1992 Infiniti M30 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-5A68B43    W0133-1634292  New

Qty:
$34.48
Ishino Stone Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Infiniti M30
Ishino Stone
1999 Infiniti I30 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-1A0267E    W0133-1626110  New

Qty:
$54.30
Ishino Stone Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Radiator Side
  • Cylinder Head - Left
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Infiniti I30
Original Equipment
2004 Infiniti QX56 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Original Equipment

P311-1E17B00    W0133-1811858  New

Qty:
$81.69
Original Equipment Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 01/01/2004-
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Infiniti QX56 Fr:01-01-04
Original Equipment
2006 Infiniti QX56 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Original Equipment

P311-1E17B00    W0133-1811858  New

Qty:
$81.69
Original Equipment Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Infiniti QX56
Original Equipment
2004 Infiniti QX56 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Original Equipment

P311-3B5C14F    W0133-1811859  New

Qty:
$81.75
Original Equipment Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 01/01/2004-
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Infiniti QX56 Fr:01-01-04
Original Equipment
2009 Infiniti QX56 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Original Equipment

P311-3B5C14F    W0133-1811859  New

Qty:
$81.75
Original Equipment Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Infiniti QX56
Ishino Stone
2003 Infiniti FX35 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-2E23706    W0133-1722962  New

Qty:
$38.21
Ishino Stone Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2003 - Infiniti FX35 AWD
Ishino Stone
2004 Infiniti G35 Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-1B2900B    W0133-1722961  New

Qty:
$37.10
Ishino Stone Engine Cylinder Head Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 10/01/2003-07/31/2004
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission Body Prod. Date Range
2004 - Infiniti G35 Base Automatic Sedan Fr:10-01-03 To:07-31-04

Latest Infiniti Repair and Head Gasket Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2004 Inf G35 Blown Head Gasket

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From birdland1982 on 2004 Inf G35 Blown Head Gasket

My 2004 Infiniti G35 V6 with 123,000 miles on it overheated on my way to work. I saw white steam coming from hood, immediately pulled over, and had it towed to my mechanic.

My mechanic replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator. However, after making those fixes he determined that the head gasket is blown. He hasn't given me a clear answer as to why he thinks this (there are some language barrier issues), only that after making the initial repairs he wasn't satisfied with how it was running and eventually took it to the Infiniti dealership for them to run some test (?). He doesn't have any printed out test results or anything to show me. The mechanic is a friend of a friend, so I don't think he is trying to rip me off, but I want to make sure he hasn't somehow made a mistake in diagnosis.

Questions:

(1) What evidence should the mechanic be able to show me to prove that the head gasket is actually blown? Should I get a second opinion, and if so, how do I go about doing that?

(2) He is quoting me $2,500 to replace the head gasket and resurface the head OR $3,500 to replace the entire engine with a used engine with 75,000 miles on it. At this point, I am planning on making the repairs, then selling the vehicle so I am not out the money. Would it be worth it to spend the extra $1000 to replace the engine rather than just repair the head gasket? In other words, if I spend an extra $1000, will it (a) be significantly easier to sell my vehicle or (b) will my vehicle command a better price than if I were to just make the less expensive repair?

Thank you so much for the advice.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

When you overheat an engine badly enough to blow past the pressure cap of the cooling system, you can very easily rupture your head gasket. Many new engines use aluminum for their cylinder heads, especially import cars, and they are more prone to warpage from this than iron heads are. He may be correct about this but it is a valid question to ask him to back up his findings.

A blown head gasket can be determined by a combination of tests. A five gas analyzer probe held over the overflow tank while the engine is running can detect hydrocarbons from combustion gasses getting from the cylinders into your cooling system. There are also chemical tests meant to detect the same thing.

A cylinder leakdown test would reveal which cylinder or cylinders were leaking.

The spark plugs could be removed while pressurizing the cooling system to see if coolant gets into any of the cylinders.

A compression test would show compression losses, but it would need to be verified that it was due to the head gasket and not a different mechanical issue.

I do wonder about why he has no paperwork from the dealership. Perhaps he has a friend who is a tech there and thats what he means. You may want to bring someone who speaks spanish with you to get past the language barrier. If you wanted a second opinion, you would need to pay a tow truck to haul it to a different shop and pay them to do a diagnostic on it.

I don't know why you would lay out thousands in car repairs and just turn around and sell the car. May as well drive it and get your money's worth. I'm assuming the car isn't a complete POS or anything as I can't see it, but the mileage isn't too extreme. The engine work, no matter which route you go, isn't going to raise the value of this car in the least. Book values are based on a vehicle being in good mechanical condition. The cost of keeping it that way is simply a cost of ownership. It will certainly be worth more than a car with a blown head gasket that can't be driven, but its not going to be worth more than an 04 G35 with 123k on it is.

Response From birdland1982

Thanks, Nick. I appreciate the advice and will ask for some of the evidence you suggest.

Response From MarineGrunt

What would worry me is that he took it to a dealership to have them test for a head gasket leak when he says he's a mechanic. I'm no professional mechanic like Nick and some of the other guys here but have always worked on my own vehicles. I'm pretty confident that I could track down a blown head gasket. If he didn't have the right equipment I would think he would know that there are auto parts stores out there that have a free tool loaner program. I could see having another shop check it out of it was having a problem that was tough to diagnose but a blown head gasket shouldn't be all that difficult. Then again, I've never worked on an Infiniti so I don't know if there's anything special about it that makes it tougher to diagnose than most.

I too wouldn't drop the money into and then sell it. 123,000 miles isn't all that high. As long as the rest of the car is in decent shape, once the head gasket is fixed, it should be good to go. I just did a head gasket in one of our vehicles and it's one of the reasons I plan on keeping it. I know I won't have to worry about it blowing another head gasket for another 100,000 miles or so.

Response From birdland1982

I appreciate your thoughts. I paid a visit to the shop today and got a more thorough explanation. My mechanic said that to him it had to be. blown head gasket because "it wasn't leaking fluids but was still overheating.' As Nick suspected, my mechanic had taken it to a tech at the Infiniti dealership who he is friends with. The tech returned the car with the diagnosis of blown head gasket. The tech didn't provide any paperwork, I am guessing because he did it as a favor. My mechanic made it sound like it didn't take much for the tech to diagnose it, like perhaps he didn't even run tests. The dealership is leas than a block from the mechanic, which probably explains why he took out there as opposed to some other method of diagnosis. My mechanic understood my desire for a second opinion and (as Nick also suggested) he suggested I call the dealership to setup a $150 inspection that would generate some paper documentation of the need for a head gasket repair. I went off to call the dealer, but then decided that, since the mechanic had basically already gotten the second opinion from the dealership, I should save the time and $150. I figure, if the mechanic were trying to rip me off, why would he be so confident about sending me off to get a second opinion. So, I asked them to give me a quote for a new engine, which they will give me tomorrow. I am planning to keep the car. Even after I told them I want the quote, they still said that they would be happy to help me arrange a second opinion should I want it, which makes me more confident in their honesty.

Response From nickwarner

His dealership friend could've tested it pretty easily by holding a 5-gas analyzer by the coolant overflow tank to check for hydrocarbons. Still don't know whyt you would want to change the whole engine for just a head gasket. This is a pretty common job and as long as the bottom end is in good shape there is no need to replace the whole engine.

White Smoke? Toxic Smell?

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Gregmoniz on White Smoke? Toxic Smell?

I just bought a used Infiniti G35 sedan, and when driving it and looking at it everything seemed good but after driving a few hundred miles I realize s small bit of white smoke comes out my exhaust and sometimes black when I really gun it and my rpms are towards the top end. Also, right when I start my car and while I'm idling or sometimes when I'm driving it smells like exhaust in my car, I either have to have all windows open or all windows closed. There's no bubbling in the radiator but my father said there was a little when I gave it some gas. Does this sound like a very serious problem? Head gasket?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Is this a private sale? If you got this at a car lot, you might want to give them a call.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Probably more than just a head gasket now. Bubbling noticed and other observations are pretty damning.


Near red-lining it was a brilliant idea for an engine in distress or perhaps has put it out of its misery?


T

pt crusier

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on pt crusier

I have a 2001 pt. I replaced the thermostat and rad cap..It seems to push to much coolant to overflow tank.Is it overfull or is it the head gasket?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You need to fill the engine and radiator full with any tricks you can before you fill the recovery tank or first warm up the remaining air lock will barf out coolant and all to the tank. It could have a head gasket problem but get the air out first and then we can discuss that,

T

Response From Guest

How do I get the so- called air lock out? Let me know pleeease..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What prompted changing the thermostat to begin with?

The thermostat when cold is a stopper for coolant flow to radiator so air can get trapped any time coolant is lowered or lost for any reason. Vehicles with the pressure cap at the recovery tank which I think this one does are harder to know that the system is truly full when refilling. It's a real problem in some cases to get all that air out.

Just how did you refill the system? Some vehicles you need to fill thru a hose when removed or open an air bleed on the engine probably near the thermostat.

I'm just guessing that what happened is the air heated up in the engine and it will expand faster than coolant and push whatever coolant in its way to the recovery tank first appearing to be overfilled. The idea is to push air to that tank and return only coolant when the engine cools and coolant contracts - self purging but wont' just do it in one shot.

Bet if you go back and look now the recovery tank is empty or low again if cooled off now. Many cycles of that would purge out the air in time but you shouldn't wait or let it overheat which it could just letting it do it on it's own which it may not unless you have it mostly filled to begin with.

Just where are you at with this now?

T

Response From Guest

I found the bleeder .Looks like a brake bleeder on the thermostat housing. Do I drain some coolant out then open the bleeder while filling? I hate to be a pain.But a quick walk thru whould help.I'M lost on what do I do 1st ect. Thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Bear with me and I'll get back to this with a more detailed procedure which may take some time for me to think out. For right now - if that is just like a brake bleeder it probably won't bleed air until removed and cleaned - if so have a plug for the hole ready. The basic idea is that air rises over liquid and can't pass thru the thermostat when it's closed which traps air. Back later,

T

Response From Guest

Thanks Tom ;]] Let me know

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Let me give this a shot at explaining. I spent the day thinking of how I could write something about this that could easily explain this problem and the solutions so it could be referred to for many as this is a common problem. There are some tricks for exact makes and models but basically the same thing.

* Think of the cooling system as two areas - engine side and radiator side. About always a thermostat is at the highest point between them and shuts when cold and gradually opens when it approaches the set temp then fully open to circulate the coolant to radiator and return the cooled, coolant to the engine.

* The T-stat is capable of being somewhat air tight when cold/closed. When coolant is drained or lowered on purpose or from a leak it will lower the level in the engine side and the radiator side. When filled again at the radiator side the coolant fills what it can but can't push the air on top of remaining coolant in engine back thru the T-stat so it's locked in there till the thermostat opens and the air (naturally at the top) goes out to radiator, liquid coolant should return thru the lower radiator hose to the engine and you would notice the drop in coolant level at the radiator - a good time to fill again BUT.......... vehicles without a radiator cap on the radiator itself just don't manage to get that air out to where you would fill it at the pressure recovery tank so you have to be assertive with them.

!! I'm winging it here so bear with me. The idea is getting the air out of the locked engine side to where you can replace it with coolant of the side you are supposed to be able to add directly to, to replace air with coolant. By itelf it would purge air out to recovery and return just liquid... note the tank has a little hose at the bottom that allows coolant flow to and from the radiator. Just that smaller hose is slow to accomplish this without intervention when system has been drained.

It's hard with these to just let the engine warm up enough to have the T-stat open and stay there long enough to on the difficult ones you would let air out of the engine side before the thermostat with a bleeder if equipped or taking a hose off on that side as high up as possible and fill it there and re-attach. When you have most air out just normal driving around will get any remaining insignificant air out to that recovery tank a little at a time over the cycles of warm and cold - expansion/contraction of the coolant.

Warning: When dealing with a cooling system don't open up when under pressure. You can feel that there is pressure fairly easily at an upper radiator hose - use a rag and don't get burned. Water/coolant is a liquid at temps below 212F (rough ave) and a vapor above that with no pressure on it. Water/coolant will remain a liquid at about 3 extra degrees per lb of pressure. If that pressure is released it can and will flash to a vapor and can cause serious injury! Apply common sense folks.

Now a snag with assorted ways the heater operates. When filling and testing the heater should be on full temp request and low fan. Feel for the heat. That proves that liquid coolant is there as even hot air going thru a heater core won't exhange much heat. Some heaters have a constant flow of coolant and adjust the temp desired by controlling flow of the coolant itself or use a diverter door to blend heated and ambient air temp to deliver disired air temp to cabin. This will vary in assorted vehicles.
NOTE: Some vehicles use the heater/core - coolant flow as part of the by-pass system which allows the water pump to maintain even temps inside the engine's coolant. This is necessary so that the thermostat gets the real overall engine temp or it would fluctuate and cause problems of its own.

Note again: This is with the components of the cooling system all in good shape and able to work properly. Debris in cooling system, leaks, head gasket problems, or defects of assorted kinds can and will complicate the success of purging air out of a cooling system.


Ask away as needed. I'll try or others please jump in and edit this as needed. This is a common problem. Techs and DIYers alike have to deal with this frequently,

Hope that helped for now..........

Tom Greenleaf, 2-3-2008


Response From Guest

Wow..Thanks sooo much for the time you spent helping me out. I went out yesterday and tried the bleed off thing. I made sure the system was full. Well , I opened the cap which is NOT on the rad and topped it off. Started the car and opened the bleeder. It spit air out and I did it till the coolant got to hot and closed the bleeder. I repeated this again after a cool down. I let the car idle for 10 mins after.

Then I revved it up to 2-3 grand for a bit.. I watched the overflow tank and it never filled up !!!

I drove it for a bit and had no problem. I need to take it out for a longer drive today.

I am crossing my fingers here, But it seemed to work . I will let you know more after a longer haul

I went and smelled the exhaust and could not smell anti freze in it..Hoping this is NOT a head gasket problem. Again many thanks for your time.

I will let you know more today. Randy in Fayetteville Arkansas..Go Hogs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf



Randy - That was my kitty's work. I left the 'puter on and she was sick of waiting

I don't think you have a head gasket problem. Just keep a sharp eye on the temp gauge and leave the heater on if you can stand it even if not needed for a while. As mentioned the heater will quit blowing warm air when only air is passing thru it. That can be just air or bubbles from the coolant boiling and actually is a faster warning than the gauge sometimes. If you do overheat you are back to square one with this. It should begin or already be very stable and you can just archive this as not quite as simple as it looks for just swapping out a thermostat!

T and Kitty!

Response From Guest

Mucho thanks to Kitty then ;]] It is very cool of you to take your time to help others. The world needs more like yourself in it.

I will give you a update when the wife takes it to work Monday. Thanks again..Randy in Arkansas

Response From Guest

I spoke to soon .. The wife got home today after a 5 min drive and the radiator hoses were not hot yet. But the coolant was filling up the overflow tank??

There is pressure somewhere.. I feel it IS a head gasket..Damn!! I bleed the system 3 times..This sucks.

Response From Guest

And the coolant in the overflow tank was NOT hot?????

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dangit!!!! It's possible. Know that anytime air is heated out of sight it will expand tons more than a liquid which pushes the coolant out to that tank. If that air (I guess I should say 'gas'/'vapor' ) is in fact from combustion gasses or exhaust gasses then it behaves like plain air in the system. It keeps coming so you can't just purge it out if in fact that is what is happening.

Head gaskets don't always leak coolant into combustion or oil but can leak about any thing they seal from one to another.

Ever heard the phrase "Blow a Gasket" as an expression of exasperation? Appropriate isn't it? Get a good diag before making the decision to replace the head gasket and all that can go with that. We are still here and will try as best we can to minimize wasted money and effort on your part,

T

Response From Guest

Thanks Tom.. I had one guy say maybe the impellars are shot on the water pump. Could the radiator be plugged up a bit? When I bled the system it never did run out a solid stream, Like I could not stop the air purge. But to push the coolant to the tank,I touched the fluid and it was not hot has me bafooned. Randy

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Water pump impellers have been the source of problems. In this vehicle with no cap on the radiator you can't just eyeball the flow which stinks. The coolant if for any reason getting a supply of vapor/air/gasses on the engine side will create pressure to push the coolant thru the lower hose (cooler there by nature) and liquid up and out to the tank from the bottom of the whole system where naturally the liquid will be before air is on the bottom which is really only when it's empty. One hot spot away from your sight or observation could be boiling away pushing coolant that isn't hot at all.

Think of what would happen in a long metal pipe totally filled with water say as an example a 40 foot stretch of iron pipe stretched out with both open ends being the highest level and full to see it. Now take a blow torch to the middle and boil just a couple inches and it would push cold water out the ends - does that make sense?

Ok: There are devices to detect exhaust gasses in coolant - I never used those but I think they are detecting hydro carbons or things that would be found in exhaust gasses but as engines are infinately better at completely burning the fuel the exhaust can be free of things to detect so easily and that test might not be conclusive.

This tread became a documentary somehow. If we go back to why this thermostat was replaced to begin with it could be a clue as to what is the likely problem with this now and yes I'm thinking "head gasket" but it's such a waste to be wrong with that diagnosis. Anytime an engine overheats for any reason at all is hard on that.

A total system flush would be helpful in knowing if the radiator is clogged as I don't think you can just look and see it very well. Debris, junk of any kind noted when you were looking at things or goo in that recovery tank would be telltale. You used to be able to just feel the heat transfer of a radiator getting progressively hot to cool and could tell how well it was doing but even with a heat sensing gun it's hard to get a good shot at it.

This may end up needing some help - hands on, from a skilled tech. Hang in there,

T

Response From way2old

Excellent work Mr. Greenleaf. This is for Kitty (and you).

​Buzzing noise when push the accelerator and when the key is in "ON" position

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Question From alexjones on ​Buzzing noise when push the accelerator and when the key is in "ON" position

Hello all,
I have 1993 Infiniti G20 : 215,000 miles.
the car was running very bad. shaking hard when driving, for starting the car I had to push the gas pedal while cranking so the car will start and sometime when I was getting to a complete stop ( on red traffic light) I had to change the gear to Park to prevent the car from turning off. anyway, I found out one of the injectors is bad ( the resistance was 114 {normal is about 10-14})and was not clicking. so I took of the fuel rail and tested the injectors by connecting a 9V battery . 3 of them shoot out gas but that one broken one didnt do anything. so I put everything back together till I get the replacement injector, and now when the key is in ON position and as I push the gas pedal just a little bit a Buzzing noise comes out from underneath the hood ,I couldnt pin point where it is yet. also now I am having very difficulty to start the car. feels like it is out of gas. and when car starts after couple of pumping the gas pedal while starting , giant white smoke comes out of the tail pipe and strong gas smell .

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks
Alex

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - Pumping a fuel injected engine does nothing but exercise your foot unless to the floor to clear a flooded engine.


Buzzing noise - no clue yet for you. The white cloud out tail pipe isn't a good sign as you should know. Not much other than a blown head gasket or crack that allows coolant to get in can do that.


I suggest doing a compression test to see if this engine has some totally out of spec readings. It's old enough with some miles to be considered how far you want to go with it IMO,


T

Response From alexjones Top Rated Answer


Sport - Pumping a fuel injected engine does nothing but exercise your foot unless to the floor to clear a flooded engine.


Buzzing noise - no clue yet for you. The white cloud out tail pipe isn't a good sign as you should know. Not much other than a blown head gasket or crack that allows coolant to get in can do that.


I suggest doing a compression test to see if this engine has some totally out of spec readings. It's old enough with some miles to be considered how far you want to go with it IMO,


T
Thank you for your reply T , the white smoke goes away as soon as the car runs for a few seconds. and I am assuming it is because the gas pedal pumping but I dont know. as you said it is an old car I paid $1000 for it and I hate to spend couple of thousand to fix everything, I just wanted to fix it to run almost normal so I can sell instead of sending it to junk yard.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The "white" smoke may have an odor and also might go away after start up and stay gone.


Would think you'd be noticing loss of coolant if it's done that a while. The rest is I think this engine is all confused as it's relying on normal compression and normal intake manifold vacuum for lots of operating functions even in 1993. Try for codes for an area of a problem noted but the white smoke is the killer.


If you've disconnected the battery or it's gone totally dead anytime recently I'm near sure this car will forget how to hold a normal idle having lost memory that over time and use covers the changes of slowly getting dirty in throttle body and other things like plain load on engine from accessories or just sitting in drive vs a neutral.


Pull plugs at least and look for maybe one only or more that is too clean or worse plain wet with coolant. Pressure test could find it and could (if bad enough) fill a cylinder with coolant and lock engine?


There's a list of maybe things but not a whole long list on why it could blow that white smoke. Check oil for contamination too.


Fuel injectors can if before you found a bad one have been flooding the thing washing lube of that cylinder badly and you'd find it way off now.


Just check easy stuff as I do think you've got some bucks ahead that might be more than you would want to spend on this exact car. It's worth bucks (for metals if nothing else) as scrap priced local to you.


Miles alone don't matter way too much for a very well cared for car/engine but time counts and stupid stuff like even the seats lose it, knobs and handles only take so much and get annoying - your car, your call but find out what you can before tossing bucks at it,


T

Response From alexjones

Thank you very much Tom for taking your time and explain it to me. you are right I dont want to start spending on something that might or might not work.
I will do the check list you said. the one good thing this car had when I baught it was the full repair service manual and that is what I had been using to fix stuff on it .
The book probably worth more than the car itself now :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's not over yet just need to find out where you stand. Great that you have manuals and no doubt worth something. Sorry if I'm stuck right at the "white smoke" but it's the most important thing to know why. You did say it smelled like fuel which would be dark and sooty unburned fuel. If extreme enough probably soil a cloth for a close look.


It doesn't take much coolant to make a cloud of smoke nor oil. It may be confused with the standard color of what you see and going away once finally running can happen.


OK - Consuming some oil may not mean too much by some miles but shouldn't really be seen and always note how long or miles it takes for oil consumption. Coolant really shouldn't use any but rather just expand with heat and contract with cooling off at close to marked levels of tank AND remain always full at radiator.


Spark plugs are very telling of what is going on inside cylinders. Even if older you look for them to be the same unless clearly ONE cylinder shows lots different from others.


Try to do as much diagnosing as possible while it's intact and running as that ends if you have things all apart.


Stinks but could take a while. If running poorly you risk the cat converter(s) too. No problems from me keeping and using old vehicles some had some much higher miles than this but a history of most since new on many of my own on most which helps some.


Add any recent work that might be a cause of something now that's overlooked too,


Tom