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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ATP
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Best Selling Genuine Toyota Harmonic Balancers

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, Dayco, Febi, Genuine
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We stock Harmonic Balancer parts for most Toyota models, including 4Runner, Avalon, Camry, Celica, Corolla, Echo, FJ Cruiser, Highlander, Land Cruiser, MR2 Spyder, Matrix, Paseo, Pickup, Previa, Prius, RAV4, Sequoia, Sienna, Solara, Supra, T100, Tacoma, Tercel, Tundra, Venza.


Dorman
1985 Toyota 4Runner Engine Harmonic Balancer 4 Cyl 2.4L Dorman

P311-0827E8B    594-073  New

1347035030 , 102098 , PB1091N , DA70 , P-T2.4 , 1340854H00 , 1347035020 , 1340854010 , 1347138020 , 1347138010 , SK594073 , 102084 , 1347138011 , 1340838010

Qty:
101.37
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Toyota 4Runner L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2366
Dorman
1995 Toyota 4Runner Engine Harmonic Balancer 6 Cyl 3.0L Dorman

P311-0E50F93    594-078  New

PB1297N , 1340865011 , P-T3.0 , 102099 , 1340865010 , 9516110519 , DA30 , PC-7000 , 9028005010

Qty:
133.77
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Toyota 4Runner V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2959
Dorman
1990 Toyota Celica Engine Harmonic Balancer 4 Cyl 2.2L Dorman

P311-5B7D750    594-138  New

SK594138 , 1340874010 , 1340874020 , DA20 , PB1232N

Qty:
102.09
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Toyota Celica L 4 Cyl 2.2L - 2164
Dorman
2000 Toyota 4Runner Engine Harmonic Balancer 4 Cyl 2.7L Dorman

P311-443722C    594-141  New

DA29 , PC-7003 , PB1256N , 102153 , 1340875030 , SK594141 , P-T2.7

Qty:
117.41
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Toyota 4Runner L 4 Cyl 2.7L - 2694
Dorman
1992 Toyota Celica Engine Harmonic Balancer 4 Cyl 1.6L Dorman

P311-54F3C3A    594-182  New

94853927 , 1347016050 , 1347016061 , SK594182 , PB1153N , 1347015070 , P-T1.6 , 94853926 , 1347016090 , 1347016080 , DA17 , 1347016030 , 102157

Qty:
127.29
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Toyota Celica L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1587
Dorman
1993 Toyota Corolla Engine Harmonic Balancer Dorman

P311-54F3C3A    594-182  New

94853927 , 1347016050 , 1347016061 , SK594182 , PB1153N , 1347015070 , P-T1.6 , 94853926 , 1347016090 , 1347016080 , DA17 , 1347016030 , 102157

Qty:
127.29
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • ; L4 1.6L (1587cc)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Toyota Corolla
Dorman
2001 Toyota Corolla Engine Harmonic Balancer 4 Cyl 1.8L Dorman

P311-37D56B9    594-197  New

SK594197 , 134700D010 , 1347022020 , 102182 , 94856690 , 88972521 , 88969562 , DA19 , PB1134N , 94858989 , 1347022021

Qty:
124.60
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Depth: 46.3
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inside Diameter: 25.018
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
    • Outside Diameter: 135
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Toyota Corolla 1ZZ-FE L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1794
Dorman
2003 Toyota Highlander Engine Harmonic Balancer 4 Cyl 2.4L Dorman

P311-1921E62    594-198  New

134700H010 , 102183 , 1347028020 , PB1119N , SK594198 , 134700H030 , DA23 , 1340700H010

Qty:
140.79
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Toyota Highlander L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2362
Dorman
1997 Toyota 4Runner Engine Harmonic Balancer 6 Cyl 3.4L Dorman

P311-396417A    594-201  New

PB1133N , SK594201 , 102196 , 1340862040 , DA32

Qty:
220.05
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Toyota 4Runner V 6 Cyl 3.4L - 3378
Dorman
1988 Toyota Tercel Engine Harmonic Balancer 4 Cyl 1.5L Dorman

P311-5268961    594-237  New

1347011030 , 1340811020 , 9516120159 , PB1542N , 9516120519 , 102228 , SK594237 , 1340811011 , 1340811021 , 1340811012

Qty:
128.03
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Toyota Tercel L 4 Cyl 1.5L - 1456
Dorman
2000 Toyota Camry Engine Harmonic Balancer 4 Cyl 2.2L Dorman

P311-4032918    594-139  New

SK594139 , 1340874041 , 594139 , 1340803020 , 1340874031 , 102132 , DA22 , PB1234N , PC-7010 , P-T2164

Qty:
100.98
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Center Bolt Included: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Depth: 52.7
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inside Diameter: 31
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
    • Outside Diameter: 145
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 5
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Toyota Camry L 4 Cyl 2.2L - 2164
Dorman
1999 Toyota Avalon Engine Harmonic Balancer 6 Cyl 3.0L Dorman

P311-2CBA236    594-140  New

DA31 , SK594140 , PC-7012 , PB1468N , P-T3.3 , 102133 , 134080A010 , 1340820010

Qty:
116.76
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Toyota Avalon V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2995
Dorman
2004 Toyota Highlander Engine Harmonic Balancer 6 Cyl 3.3L Dorman

P311-2CBA236    594-140  New

DA31 , SK594140 , PC-7012 , PB1468N , P-T3.3 , 102133 , 134080A010 , 1340820010

Qty:
116.76
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • ; Built in Japan
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Toyota Highlander V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3300
Dorman
1995 Toyota Camry Engine Harmonic Balancer Dorman

P311-2CBA236    594-140  New

DA31 , SK594140 , PC-7012 , PB1468N , P-T3.3 , 102133 , 134080A010 , 1340820010

Qty:
116.76
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • ; V6 3.0L (2959cc)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Toyota Camry
Dorman
1993 Toyota Camry Engine Harmonic Balancer 6 Cyl 3.0L Dorman

P311-07368BA    594-227  New

SK594227 , 102230 , 1340862030 , PB1231N , DA30

Qty:
152.96
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt And Washer Included: Yes
    • Center Bolt Included: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Degree Markings: Yes
    • Depth: 55.4
    • Drive Belt Type: Serpentine
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inside Diameter: 31
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
    • Outside Diameter: 147
    • Pulley Groove Quantity: 6
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Toyota Camry V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2959
Dayco
2012 Toyota Tundra Engine Harmonic Balancer 6 Cyl 4.0L Dayco - Premium OEM Replacement Balancer

P311-4521437    PB1396N  New

594-350

Qty:
Dayco Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Premium OEM Replacement Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Hole Quantity: 2
    • Counterweight Balance: Neutral, No Counterweight
    • Crank Bore:
      • 1.221
      • 31.01
    • Crank Trigger/Exciter Plate: No
    • Hardware Included: No
    • Installation Instructions Included: No
    • Nose Outside Diameter:
      • 1.654
      • 42.00
    • Number of Integrated Pulleys: 1
    • Outer Ring Material: Cast Iron
    • Overall Outside Diameter:
      • 148.00
      • 5.827
    • Overall Width:
      • 2.008
      • 51.00
    • Pulley 1 Outside Diameter:
      • 140.000
      • 5.512
    • Pulley 1 Type: Serpentine
    • Ring Width:
      • 1.476
      • 37.49
    • Timing Marks: Yes
    • Woodruff Key Included: No
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Toyota Tundra V 6 Cyl 4.0L 241 3956
Dayco
2004 Toyota Solara Engine Harmonic Balancer 4 Cyl 2.4L Dayco - Premium OEM Replacement Balancer

P311-55F844E    PB1119N  New

102183 , 594-198 , DA-23

Qty:
147.25
Dayco Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • Premium OEM Replacement Balancer
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Hole Quantity: 2
    • Counterweight Balance: Neutral, No Counterweight
    • Crank Bore:
      • 1.064
      • 27.01
    • Crank Trigger/Exciter Plate: No
    • Hardware Included: No
    • Installation Instructions Included: No
    • Nose Outside Diameter:
      • 1.497
      • 38
    • Number of Integrated Pulleys: 1
    • Outer Ring Material: Grey Iron
    • Overall Outside Diameter:
      • 148.15
      • 5.833
    • Overall Width:
      • 1.749
      • 44.40
    • Pulley 1 Type: Serpentine
    • Ring Width:
      • 1.247
      • 31.65
    • Timing Marks: Yes
    • Woodruff Key Included: No
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Toyota Solara L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2362
Febi
2000 Toyota Corolla Engine Harmonic Balancer Febi

P311-0C249B1    W0133-1982104  New

Qty:
110.56
Febi Engine Harmonic Balancer
Brand: Febi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Toyota Corolla
Dorman
2007 Toyota Matrix Engine Harmonic Balancer Dorman

P311-0690D97    W0133-1982104  New

Qty:
166.81
Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Toyota Matrix
Genuine
1995 Toyota Supra Engine Harmonic Balancer Genuine

P311-2D74896    W0133-1738984  New

Qty:
664.39
Genuine Engine Harmonic Balancer
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Incl.Engine Harmonic Balancer
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Toyota Supra

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

preventive car care

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From chas on preventive car care

gearheads.....the car is a toyota 22re......i gave it a try to look down the the top of the engine at the cam gear with a light to see if i could get a look at the upper driver side chain guide and bolt for any signs, L/R timing chain guides and maybe the tensioner if possible before it fails.
i could see down a little but not real good.
any suggestions how to get a look down the front to get a look at the chain guides and tensioner?
is there a camera for this to go down the timing case to get a look?
thanks.

Response From flownaksala

One thing I have learned over the years regarding preventive car care is to keep up with my vehicles maintenance schedule. I use a product link deleted ...... not allowed that was recommended to me by my mechanic. Basically it tracks your maintenance schedule and reminds you when anything is due. I have 2 older vehicles both with over 100 K and believe me its already saved my money on repairs. It reminded me to change my timing belt on my Amigo at 150K. When I took it to my mechanic he said the belt was about to break which could have cost me a new engine.

Response From Hammer Time

Why are you looking for a problem if you have no symptoms?

Response From chas


Why are you looking for a problem if you have no symptoms
chuck>>>>>because im there doing some work and have it apart down to the timing cover..... while im in there im trying to get a look at the timing chain guides.
a timing light wont show sloppy chain and guides?

Response From Discretesignals

I wouldn't trust a timing light to tell if you have a stretched chain or guides. Someone could have moved the distributor or any number of things, beside a stretched chain, can cause timing changes.

If it isn't making noise, your probably ok. Those little engines are pretty tough.

If anything and right there look, feel for slop and maybe turn crank bolt to watch it move back and forth and probably nothing so forget it till you do notice something.

That engine is OHC and the chain tensioner is pressured by the oiling system. What ever wear, up to a certain point, the tensioner will take up the slop. You can't determine chain stretch on those unless you measure the chain with it in your hands. If you turn the crank back and forth you'll push the tensioner back and you will end up with slop. You shouldn't spin that engine backwards anyway.

Response From chas

toyota
tom>>>>>You haven't even said what model year or I missed it. Timing light not the right tool for testing this.<<<<<<
chuck>>>>>its a 94 22re.....were they not all the same from about 84 to 94 or 95 when the 22re was discontinued with the new Tacoma model?...i know a timing light is not the right or best tool for this but its all i have.....i was wondering if the strobe light on the crank timing marks would show any slop or wear in the chain, guides and tensioner.
Hammer>>>>>No info on how many miles on this chain either.
chuck>>>>>i dunno.....its a 94 toyota 22re....speedo says 144000.....its probably not the original..... it was probably changed at sometime but i dunno.....at 144000 it might time to get a look but i dont want to take it apart. Its a lot of work to remove and install the cover on a 22re.
what if i go on a trip or way out of town maybe hundreds of miles from home. This is not exactly something that can be done at the side of the road. I wont have the tools needed to do this. I only carry a basic toolbox behind the seat. So i guess pay $600 to have a mechanic fix it and stay in a motel or drive it home with the chain grinding on the cover and maybe destroy it. Now i need to buy a new cover. Maybe even jump timing and get the infamous valve interference if this engine has that possibility. Just trying to catch it now while im in there. Thanks guys for your help....
Q.....i guess a timing light wont work.....Is it possible the wear will show while i move the crank in reverse directions while looking down its throat from the cam gear with a my 1/2drive ratchet and i think its a 19mm socket?
thanks guys for your help.....i was just wondering if there was a way to diagnose a worn timing chain, guides and tensioner......

Response From Discretesignals

I have a feeling that you should just go ahead and do a timing chain service. If not, you'll be worrying about it the whole entire time your driving on your trip. You'll have a miserable time.

I'm a mechanic and when I drive on long trips I think about all the things that could go wrong, especially on something old with many miles, so I know where your coming from. If you feel that something isn't right or it is on your mind all the time, just fix it and give yourself peace of mind.

Response From chas Top Rated Answer

yeah D, i was thinkin the same. Its old..... open it up, do the fix or leave it alone and don't go too far..... i dunno if i would want to take a chance because of the age of the car and not knowing when the chain was done last.....
here's why.....
It failed the visual smog test. I had tear it down to fix the broken timing mark on the oil pump between the timing case and the harmonic balancer. The timing mark is part of the casting on the oil pump.....i replaced the oil pump and the harmonic balancer.....requires a tear down to the timing cover....Thats why im in there and looking around at the timing chain.....

Response From Hammer Time

I owned a 22RE in a Celica years ago and when the chains get worn in those they start rattling like hell, only on start up in the beginning and all the time when it gets really worn. When it gets really worn it will start hitting the timing cover and eventually will wear right through it letting coolant into the oil but it will make a lot of noise in the meantime..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In Reply ToWhy are you looking for a problem if you have no symptoms
chuck>>>>>
Quote ">>because im there doing some work and have it apart down to the timing cover..... while im in there im trying to get a look at the timing chain guides.
a timing light wont show sloppy chain and guides? "
You haven't even said what model year or I missed it. Timing light not the right tool for testing this. If anything and right there look, feel for slop and maybe turn crank bolt to watch it move back and forth and probably nothing so forget it till you do notice something.
Nice to prevent a problem if something seen but seems nothing is wrong right now,
T

Response From Hammer Time

No info on how many miles on this chain either.

Response From Hammer Time

You can't tell anything that way. You need to know how much play is in the chain and you can't do it that way. If you're hearing ay rattling coming from that area, it's probably time.

Response From chas


You can't tell anything that way. You need to know how much play is in the chain and you can't do it that way. If you're hearing ay rattling coming from that area, it's probably time.

No rattleing. I removed the valve cover then checked the guide with a screw driver on both sides. There is no movement from side to side. The guides are not broken at this time.
Will a timing light tell me anything? How much drift on the crankshaft timing marks with a strobe timing light be acceptable?

92 Geo Prizm vibrates rough at 1200-1800 Rpms

Showing 4 out of 9 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Big-T on 92 Geo Prizm vibrates rough at 1200-1800 Rpms

Hello all my name is Tony...I am good with my hands but def not a motor head...I can do lots of things on my own when i find the problem that needs to be fixed.I am here today cause i can not even find the problem to fix it, And would like a large range of knowledge to try and steer me in the right direction,Ok i am tring to fix my girl friends car...It's a 1992 Geo Prizm Lsi with 195,000 miles and a 4 cyl 16 valve Fe motor in it(After research its same as a Toyota Corolla)..I am not the driver of this car so i can only go off what she has told me...I know the car ran ok for it's year and miles...But out of no where she has this bad engine vibration that is very bad...I went to the easy things first which were indeed busted to pcs(Engine mounts and trans mounts)..Did not fix the problem..This problem does not require the car to be moving to do this so i scratched off tires/Drive line(Axles)..This accures at somewhere in the range of 1200-1800 rpms,At idle it's fine...and at a higher rpm it's fine....I have pull trans and dropped oil pan and i still do not see nothing that would cause this..I was told a bent piston rod could do this(From A LOCAL SHOP)..But i put all cyl at top dead center and stuck gauge through spark plug hole and not even a slight diffrence(I figured that was enough to take that off the list)..I was wondering if a bad torq conveter could cause this prob..I also notice when i dropped trans it was marked with yellow marker 97 corolla as well as the torq converter(So i know it's either used or a junk yard item)...But it was the one in there since she owed it....Plus i was also told to remove all belts and try to wiggle all pully's up down and back and forth(Still nothing)..I was told the main pulley is a balancer norm made with rubber in it which i could see,But no noteable damage....If anyone has heard of this or could give me simple things to try i would love to soak in the info and give it a shot...Also while the car is running and in park could something inside trans cause this...?.....Thanks for your time and i will be checking back daily....She has my car and i want it back(Smile)...

Response From dmac0923

you seemed to have covered the basics pretty well.

my recommendations would have been

motor mounts
trans mount
axles
transmission input bearing

you may be onto something with the harmonic balancer. I have heard of harmonic balancers 'shifting" meaning the rubber and the metal are no longer one piece and is taking the motor rotating assembly out of balance ever so slightly

Response From Big-T

Well yes as i stated i am good with my hands and try alot before i ask questions.I am a suspension mech for cars and rigs just not a daily motor guy....Again i have trans out and oil Pan down as of today and am lost on whats the issue here ...Trans has leaks so i wanted to seal it anyhow so i figured i could look to see if the prob was there somewhere and while it's down and out i will do rear main seal...The problem here is many things can be done while i have it apart but i hate to do all this and find out that i can't solve the problem i am here asking about just to turn around and junk the car....Grrrrr

Response From Big-T

Ok...Does anyone know if this car that i posted about in first post have a balanced cam in it (16 valve Dohc Fe model Motor)

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

I had a look through the service bulletins that I have and found nothing directly concerning engine or trans vibrations. There was one article on the torque converter’s clutch coming apart causing a shudder but I’m not sure if this would address your concerns?
If you don’t physically find anything, put the car back together and try starting the engine with the torque converter left undone, from the engine. If your vibration is gone, you’ll know what you’ll be doing again; it always comes apart easier the second time. LOL
Sorry I don’t mean to make fun of but that’s the joy of searching for something that doesn’t want to give up its secrets.
I don’t think this engine uses an internal balance shaft?
When you checked the harmonic balancer did you try running the engine with the belts off? I’ve had water pumps or AC clutches not make a sound but the bearings be all but destroyed?

Dan.

Response From Big-T

Well no worries about poking fun,I have torn stuff apart many times just to find the problem and your right second time is always easier..(Smiles)...So back to the topic,I spoke with a local trans guy that has been in bizz for many years here local and explained the issues.. And thats who said he was not sure of this motor But has heard of the balance cam chain or something to that matter would get wacked and cause a shake/Vibration...He also noted to me about unbolting torq converter as well as you noted start motor and see if i still had it(I didn't know i could do that duh!!) So i am going to reseal the whole trans and rear main seal and throw it in and see what i have....I also was told by the trans guy that the main pulley may not wobble, And by hand could not tell if the rubber was bad but it could spin inside itself to throw it out of balance,So...1st i would like to thank you for looking that up for me cause i neither couldn't find anything about a balance cam for this car.....And thanks for your thought about the other pulleys,But if you was here you would know for a fact it was not no water pump pulley(lol)...This is a crazy vibration...But be sure i will check them all before i put belts back on,Also i checked the main pulley while belts were off(No tension)....I will do what i stated and keep yah posted on progress and or help if i need more...Thank's Tony...Any advice while i am getting to this i will soak in to my thoughts....

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Tony; If you haven't reinstalled the trans already, check the flex plate very carefully for cracks. Between the torque converter, flex plate, and harmonic balancer, sounds like you are on the right track. And, with your attitude, I'm pretty comfortable in saying that you'll succeed in finding the problem. Good luck.

Response From Big-T

Well i am on hold do to going to my girls this weekend,But i will be back at it after the weekend and need to get it out of my shop where i work...(Kinda taking up a bay from my boss(Not Good lol)...When you say flexplate do you me Flywheel..?...again not a motor head so words and terms my get me by surprise...Thank you all once again...Tony

Response From Big-T

Ok my online friends/Helpers...I had time to return to this project and here is my results....

If you rem i had removed trans to get a further look.....Well trans turned out ok.....Flywheel was ok.....so i resealed rear of motor and reseal the whole trans/and new filter...I put it together enough to start it with out torq converter connected........(No vibration)....Then i bolted torq verter back up....(Still no vibration)......So i installled all the belts and replace a cv boot ..Lowered the car and took for a drive and still ..(No vibration)....So i ask myself...What and where did the vibration go....And what caused it....Am i happy it's gone...Yes....Am i bothered i didn't do crap that should have fixed it, Of course.....I would have like to knowN what fixed this issue....Grrr....I didn't even get to change the main crank pulley ,Vibration was gone before i got that far......Hummmm i am puzzled... Tony

Camry Will Not Start

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Garrett L on Camry Will Not Start

I own a 2011 Toyota Camry bought used in 2013 with a little over 35000 miles on it. I have had the vehicle not start once, which was August 2015 when the stock battery died and needed replacing. I have had no other issues with the vehicle.

I drove the vehicle on Sunday night without any issues or warnings. The next morning, my Camry would not start. The lights, display and radio all work perfectly but the engine will not turn over. It does not crank, and only gives a single click.

I attempted to jump start the car later in the day, but that failed with no change in the single click response. The battery might have been exceptionally low that a jump start would not work, so I placed the battery on a charger for a couple hours and attempted reinstalled it again the next day. There was still no change in response.

At this point I checked all the wires and connections. They were dirty so I cleaned them off, confirmed no disconnections and still had no change in response. The battery and connections all seem fine, so my thought was that the starter itself might be faulty.

I removed the stater and brought it to two different O'Rielly Autopart stores and have them test it. Mixed results while one claimed the starter was fine, and the other claimed it is faulty. I purchased a new starter, installed it and still no change in response.

I adjusted the gears to see if the safety switch on the Park/Neutral setting might have become no longer synchronized. No change in response.


My vehicle specifications are:
2011 Toyota Camry LE
4-Cylinder
61000 Miles
Battery is one year new. Starter is brand new. All other parts are stock and in excellent condition.

I have spent three days on this car and still cannot diagnose the problem. Any advice or assistance in this matter would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

Response From Discretesignals

While someone is holding the ignition in the start position, tap on the starter motor with something (hammer, broom handle, metal pipe). Don't beat the crap out of it. If the starter takes off if you tap on it, replace the starter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes DS. Despite being a new/or rebuilt starter now could have the same issue the core from another had and nice new clean up with little really replace but worked long enough to quick test and sell it!
? Why could this happen to many: Too many folks keep running weak batteries which is too hard on a starter motor which will try and get too hot unlike what you would think then that one is not dependable to redo IMO again without wild and total parts replaced I seriously doubt is really done despite claims,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Before this gets too involved is the single click still the same and whether being jumped or not? Also with that do all lights go out for a while or even a second up to reset any preset things like radio - other stuff? I trust you can tell if engine is somehow totally seized up?


This is common if the starter solenoid makes a single click to be low power delivery to it - so low you don't even get the machine gun flutter of the solenoid.
Battery cable connections would be my first thing to look at. You've cleaned those and a new starter so been there so leaves the engine block end of negative cable to check then the cables themselves if anything seen wrong. All that OK then let's move on with how to test it out where voltage + amps drop out on you,


T

Response From Garrett L

The response when attempting to start the car is with a single click with no variation across all tried methods. The electronic devices do not have any fluctuation with all the tried methods either because they all operate normally and consistently. No flickering, stuttering or dimming.

No symptoms of a seized engine presented themselves prior to the failure. There were and are no unusual noises or smells. For three days my car has not moved and no fluids or leaks presented themselves. No other symptoms of a seized engine came up during my tests. It is not likely but nothing is impossible.

I will be conducting a test with a volt meter later today after I learn a bit more on how to use it. In hindsight, should have used the volt meter before purchasing a new starter.

Thank you for the response. I will post an update with my findings on the volt meter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I was beginning with just intuition of what's common and be done with this.


Yes - without going way too nuts with test equipment you can do a lot with a decent voltmeter. This car is plain too new for me to know off hand any specific designs that are lousy despite it's age now.


Electrical wires, cables, clamps all stink for quite some time now. Feel cables for soft spots, insulation that's burned or clues then move on to see if the starter is making the single click for sure or just the solenoid - it matters. Test that cable to solenoid on top of starter for voltage drop while you are requesting starter motor. If voltmeter fast enough compare that to battery voltage at the same with a subsequent try and if much different at the starter the cable is junk most likely.
You aren't losing other electrical apparently and if room (do say what engine this has please) with care and caution can jumper cable right over the battery cable to solenoid - room allowed and type of jumper cables which also stink 99% of the time and really best not used from another vehicle anymore but rather to a spare battery or use a jumper box.
The chances of a second starter having the exact same issues isn't high IMO and experience. I now doubt it was a problem to begin with.


Just a suggestion is to keep parts with core charges for a while even a starter which by rights you shouldn't be able to return but if core isn't expensive you have a known good one if this swaptronics proved that WASNT it.
My sign off says long retired from this stuff which is true but still check out and do as needed whatever for myself or others just lots less.


If any doubt about engine being seized up and might want to rule that out turn it by belt if it will or crank bolt a full turn. Check oil if too full also.


When known this is likely an interference engine and if a timing belt on those just broke the split second you shut it off last valves may not allow engine to turn or already bent first valve in not starting?
Other would be oil too full, fuel somehow (not likely) still sprayed thru injectors and a maybe of hydraulic lock? Kinda doubt that.
One other is if harmonic balancer (lower pulley for belt) is out of line in any way visually things could be all off. This new? Maybe?


T

Urgent!! Minor engine oil leak! Should I KEEP or RETURN my car to dealer?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jennycong on Urgent!! Minor engine oil leak! Should I KEEP or RETURN my car to dealer?


Hello, everyone,
Urgent!!! Pls help! Need to get second opinion from you!

I purchased a used car—2003 Honda Odyssey EX-L minivan ( mileage 66K, V6) from Putnam Toyota yesterday. They don’t allow me to take the car to my mechanics man for inspection before I pay for it. They said that another buyer was waiting in the lot to buy it. So I paid $500 for a 2 days cancelation policy. In case anything goes wrong with car, I can return the car to dealer in 2 days---I will lose $500 as restocking fee.

So, after I bought it, I took the car right away to a mechanics “Honda Acura car repair shop in Campbell, CA” for a full inspection. Bad news. The owner John said that there was minor engine oil leak. He lifted the car, and showed me that there was a “palm size” WET area at the bottom of the car. I didn’t see the oil dripping, but I did
see this area had oil and was wet.

He did test drive for 5-10 minutes. After that, he opened the hood, there is some burning smell. He said the smell was from engine oil leak.

He did clean and wipe off this area. He asked me to drive 100 miles today and asked me to come back tomorrow to see how severe the leak is.

I did purchased 3 years warranty from dealer for $1100. But John said that he filed/saw so many claims that insurance company wouldn’t pay for—even the customers thought they had warranty on it.

In my inspection report, John is writing :
“ Minor engine oil leak at rear of engine. Leak at intermediate shafi that mounts to engine block. This area may have high stress under driving condition—May cause engine block damage cracks. “

He said the engine block damage cracks may cost $5000 to $7000 to repair it. And the problem can get gradually developed and get worse a few months. I am really scared.

Here is my 3 year car warranty ---the EasyCare contracts—StatedCare (administered by automobile protection corporation-APCO ) from the dealer.

On this 1 page warranty brochure, it says:
“It covers mechanical breakdown on the following items of Engine:
All internal, lubricated parts. Cylinder Block; Cylinder Heads; Harmonic Balancer; Timing Chain, Timing belt, Balance shaft belt, gears, pulleys, guides and tensioners; Oil pump, Intake and exhaust manifold; Diesel Engine
vacuum pump, Engine Mounts. The following pars are covered only if damaged by the failure of an internal, lubricated part: Cylinder barrels, Timing Chain cover, valve covers, oil Pan and Rotor Housing. “

So now I am really scared. I only have 1 day to make decision. I want to get second opinion from you here:

1. Should I keep the car ( I guess that I can keep adding engine oil myself? ) or just return the car ( I will lose $500 restocking fee ) to avoid future headache?

2. How serious can this “minor engine oil leak” be? If it leaks a lot, then I will return it. But if it only has VERY MINOR leaks after I drive 100 miles today, do I have to fix this problem? How much it cost? Can I “live
with it” without fixing it? What is the potential future problems for this?

3. If you read my warranty wording above, do you think that the insurance company in general , will pay for repairing the “minor engine oil leak” or Not? What is your past experience on this? ( today is Sunday. They are
closed. John says they usually require the shop to send pictures to them for evaluation. But I only have 1 day left
to return the car! )

Thanks for reading. Appreciate any help here!

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

I guess we'll address the oil leak 1st since that really seems to be concerning you. If the only problem with the van is a minor oil leak then it sounds like a pretty good deal. I'm a little confused on where exactly the leak is.

Pretty much any seal or gasket leak should be covered under your extended warranty. Which is another area that is confusing. I'm not sure if you were saying HE couldn't do the warranty work or he was saying YOUR policy wouldn't cover it. A 2nd opinion might not be a bad idea before you make a decision.

I'm not aware of Hondas with problems with their blocks cracking. Some shops put disclaimers like that on their repair orders just to cover themselves in case a problem like that arises later on thru no fault on their part. That is one area where you might want to talk with John again to be crystal clear on. If this was just a disclaimer they put on all repair orders with oil leaks or if there is an actual problem with these engines he is aware of.

So now the other thing......

With any used car, always get it checked out 1st. Would knowing then what you know now affected your decision to buy the car?

You can always get the inspection.

While it is very possible they had another buyer. This is also a tactic some will use to close a sale "the other person who is going to buy the car". What this does is creates a sense of urgency. To make you think you need to act quickly or lose the car.

It's very simple. If they won't let you get the car inspected..........don't buy it......

If the "other person" was just a selling ploy, then all of a sudden you will be able to take the car to get inspected for some strange reason......
Personally if it was me and that happpened (unless it was killer deal) I would tell then....Thanks...that's ok, "the other person" can buy the car & leave....