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Monroe
1988 GMC S15 Jimmy Back Glass Lift Support Monroe - Monroe Max-Lift Lift Support

P311-1763CCF    901227  New

Qty:
$14.73
Monroe Back Glass Lift Support
  • Monroe Max-Lift Lift Support
  • Product Attributes:
    • Max Year Covered: 1994
    • Min Year Covered: 1983
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet S10 Blazer
    • Most Popular Year: 1994
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 139239
Brand: Monroe
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - GMC S15 Jimmy
Mahle
1991 GMC S15 Jimmy Engine Crankshaft Seal Mahle

P311-528A981    W0133-1682881  New

Qty:
$38.29
Mahle Engine Crankshaft Seal
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - GMC S15 Jimmy
Mahle
1989 GMC S15 Jimmy Engine Crankshaft Seal Mahle

P311-528A981    W0133-1682881  New

Qty:
$38.29
Mahle Engine Crankshaft Seal
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - GMC S15 Jimmy
ACDelco
1991 GMC S15 Jimmy Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor ACDelco

P311-1C38B82    W0133-1681994  New

Qty:
$29.54
ACDelco Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - GMC S15 Jimmy
ACDelco
1991 GMC S15 Jimmy Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor ACDelco

P311-1C38B82    W0133-1681994  New

Qty:
$29.54
ACDelco Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - GMC S15 Jimmy
ACDelco
1991 GMC S15 Jimmy Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor ACDelco

P311-1C38B82    W0133-1681994  New

Qty:
$29.54
ACDelco Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - GMC S15 Jimmy
ACDelco
1987 GMC S15 Jimmy Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor ACDelco

P311-1C38B82    W0133-1681994  New

Qty:
$29.54
ACDelco Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
  • Gold (Professional)
  • ; OEM# 25036979
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - GMC S15 Jimmy
ACDelco
1987 GMC S15 Jimmy Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-0F0DA66    W0133-1916878  New

Qty:
$26.91
ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
  • Professional Spin-on
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
1987 - GMC S15 Jimmy 4WD
ACDelco
1991 GMC S15 Jimmy Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-2A1A918    W0133-1681829  New

Qty:
$27.34
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - GMC S15 Jimmy
ACDelco
1991 GMC S15 Jimmy Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-2A1A918    W0133-1681829  New

Qty:
$27.34
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - GMC S15 Jimmy

Showing 1 - 10 of 5,875 Products.


Latest Gmc S15 Jimmy Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1993 GMC s15 Jimmy Blazer W/4.3

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From wiggles on 1993 GMC s15 Jimmy Blazer W/4.3

The check engine light came on two days ago and the engine has a little skip when its idleing and don't seem like it has all the power its supposed to have. Its not a bad power lose. I changed the plugs, wires, rotor button and distributor cap. Can anybody please tell me what the problem may be.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The "check engine" light is an indicator for a system that monitors many electronic functions in the system, also called the "malfunction indicator lamp" (MIL). It can come on for any of hundreds of different causes from any of the systems that the computer monitors. Some are very important and can lead to further component or engine damage and some are emissions related not as serious but still a problem and need to be repaired.

Your first step is to have the computer scanned to retrieve the trouble codes that were set when the check engine light came on. Those codes will give you specific information about what the computer saw and will get you pointed in the right direction to find your problem. With a 1996 or newer and some 95 cars and you have an AutoZone or Advanced auto parts in your area, they will read them for free. Once you have these code numbers, we can be a lot more specific about what your problem may be.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thoughts on this:

Wiggles - you have the post about the defrost with A/C on and that would likely be the vacuum leak HT suggested. If source of vacuum was messed up other than just the one line that is more common it would be fooling an assortment of controls and capable of setting codes that won't just say "vacuum" leak.

Chase that down. The two issues together make a vacuum problem the likely cause of both,

T

1993 GMC s15 Jimmy Blazer W/4.3

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From wiggles on 1993 GMC s15 Jimmy Blazer W/4.3

The a/c is pretty cold but when I press the gas peddle about half way down the air stops coming out of the vents and starts blowing out the defrost vents and when I let off of the gas it starts back blowing out of the vents

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The mode selection is done through a series of air doors that are operated by vacuum. When there is either a partial or total loss of vacuum, the system will default to either defrost or on some vehicles, heat. Acceleration can also have an effect on the doors for the same reason.

Look under the hood for a small black plastic hose coming through the firewall. Follow it to the vacuum source looking for any breaks, cracks or leaks. Also follow any other lines that branch off because they may go to a vacuum reservoir (storage tank) and a leak there will cause the same problem. Using a vacuum gauge to determine if you have full vacuum at any given point is the best way to find it. You can cut into the line anywhere and splice it back together with a piece of vacuum hose. Find the broken line, you found your problem.

94 gmc s 15 jimmy skips when hot

Showing 8 out of 9 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From dixon on 94 gmc s 15 jimmy skips when hot

1994 Gmc Jimmy

4.3 V6 w/CPI (vin W)

150000 miles
Compression : all 6 around 150psi (all within 5 psi of each other)
Hello there. About 1 month ago i replaced the head gaskets due to loss of compression in 2 cylinders side by side, the engine would lope at idle and stall out at stop lights, etc. Everything went smoothly BUT after test driving it a few time it developed a ?skip?. When the engine is cold it funs perfect but as soon as it gets to normal operating temp say about a mile up the road it starts skiping pretty bad, it uses alot of gas, never stalls out, the more gas i give it the more it skips.

At cruising speeds it sometimes does OK and sometimes continues to skip, at idel it skips.

This i have replaced and/or checked..

Distributor and rotor (new)
Timing with gray black wire disconected
Spark plugs gaped at .o45 (new)
spark plug wires (new)
Fuel filter (new)
Injectors (cleaned)
Coil (new)
Vacume lines (some replaced)
Pcv (new)

Possibiltys:
When installing the distributor with #1 at TDC, the rotor landed at say... 7-8 o'clock. the clymer manual i used showed about 4-5 o'clock. could this be causeing a problem?

I AM VERY CLOSE TO SETTING THIS THING ON FIRE. PLEASE HELP!

Response From re-tired

First thing that comes to mind ..did you have head checked for warpage by machine shop. Second thing ,,, it makes no difference what clock position the rotor ends up. So long as the cap post it ends up pointing at has the #1 plug wire on it with the remaining wires put on in the firing order in direction of rotation . Also , wires must be able to move enough to set timing and dist turn without interference to set timing as well.

Response From dixon

i checked head with feeler guage and it was all within tolerance.
so i can drop the distributor down wherever?
or i need to drop it in so that it sits ON the peg marked (1)? or just before it?
Thank you

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Another consideration is the fuel injector on this vehicle. It is prone to having the poppet valves go south. If you are using excessive fuel, sometimes black smoke present, you may want to put a fuel pressure guage on this.
A sure way to know if the injector is bad is turn key on engine off. Fuel pressure guage will be in range of 60 psi. Then if the guage drops way down quickly followed by an extended crank time, the injector is bad. I have replaced many injectors on 4.3 liter engines and there are plenty of TSB's on them.

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>prone to having the poppet valves go south<<
Probably depends whether you are a yank or a rebel....Here, in WA, the poppet valves go north.

Response From steve01832

Where, to Canada?

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Yes, Canada....We send them to Dan.

Response From dixon

thankyou for the distributor instructions, that is exactly what ive done. as far as the poppet issue. there is a pressure fitting at the back of the plunium or whatever its called. do i hook up there? and would this cause to engine to run good cold but not hot? im thinking the timing is advanced when warming up so it will burn the extra fuel??? not to sure. please educate me.

Thanks to all

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

dixon; The others addressed the fuel issue. I'll concentrate on the distributor. The way that I've always done it. Remove #1 spark plug. Disconnect coil so engine can't start. Have a helper 'bump' the engine over while you hold a finger to the #1 cylinder hole. Once you feel a 'push' of compression, stop. By hand, rotate the engine until the timing mark points to TDC. That will be top dead center on the compression stroke. Identify #1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap. Remove the cap and be certain that the rotor is pointing directly at where you determined #1 spark plug wire to be. If not right, remove the distributor and turn the rotor so that when the distributor drops into place and is fully seated, the rotor is still where it should be. You may not hit it 'right' the first couple of tries. You may have to drop it in, what seems like, a tooth too soon, as it will want to turn as it seats all of the way. Once you are sure you are right, turn the engine over a few times and then bring it up on TDC (compression stroke) and recheck.