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Magnaflow
Qty:
$187.21
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter  Front
  • Universal Catalytic Converter - 2.00in.
  • Certification Level : TLEV OE Spec Cutting and welding required during installation
  • 2in. Universal California OBDII Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Body Shape: Oval
    • Body Type: Clam Shell
    • Series: California
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Title: Universal Converter
Brand: Magnaflow
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Geo Metro Front L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 993
Magnaflow
Qty:
$107.12
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter  Rear
  • Universal Catalytic Converter - 2.00in.
  • Certification Level : TLEV OE Spec Cutting and welding required during installation
  • 2in. Universal California OBDII Catalytic Converter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Body Shape: Oval
    • Body Type: Clam Shell
    • Series: California
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Title: Universal Converter
Brand: Magnaflow
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Geo Metro Rear L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 993
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.58
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch 3/4 16 Outside Diameter 2.98 Height 3.36" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Geo Metro L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 993
Premium Vision
1992 Geo Metro Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Right Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-353C180    PR-18  New

XV18

Qty:
$3.68
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Right
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Geo Metro Front Right
Premium Vision
1994 Geo Metro Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Left Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-463C64A    PR-20  New

XV20

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 20
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Geo Metro Front Left
Premium Vision
1992 Geo Metro Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Left Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-353C180    PR-18  New

XV18

Qty:
$3.68
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 18
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Geo Metro Front Left
Premium Vision
1997 Geo Metro Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Left Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-463C64A    PR-20  New

XV20

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 4
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 20
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Geo Metro Front Left
Premium Vision
1994 Geo Metro Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Left Premium Vision - Conventional Wiper Blade

P311-463C64A    PR-20  New

XV20

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 20
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Geo Metro Front Left
Premium Vision
1997 Geo Metro Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Left Premium Vision - Conventional Wiper Blade

P311-463C64A    PR-20  New

XV20

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Front Left
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 4
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 20
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Geo Metro Front Left
Husky Liners
1989 Geo Metro Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Geo Metro Rear

Showing 1 - 10 of 2,323 Products.


Latest Geo Metro Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Should I buy a 1998 Geo Metro

Showing 4 out of 6 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From ForwardMotion on Should I buy a 1998 Geo Metro

A mechanic has a 1998 Geo Metro for sale for a low price and I was thinking of buying it. However one of my friends who knows about cars told me not to buy the Geo Metro because he says those cars "drive like a tin can on the highway". However another person told me that even though it's not as smooth of a ride that it is still safe to drive.
Info: I think it may be around 150,000 miles but I am not sure I really remember.

Response From Discretesignals

That is totally your decision. They are crap cans and were designed for fuel economy. I suggest before you even considering buying it, have it checked out by your own mechanic. At least you'll know what your getting yourself into.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ditto, it's a cheap can on wheels and meant to be. If as DS said you check it out and it's all up to snuff and don't expect more I'd consider one.


Laugh > Rented one about that year in FL no less DS just to save someone from having to pick me up. OMG - I'm used to luxo boat vehicles and thought it wouldn't even do highway normal speeds without exploding with all the noise and it was new! Same then I just wanted inexpensive and it was both the rental cost and the car. Didn't really expect much. As for working on them, never and don't even know anyone who has one but they are around.


No, now for just local tooting around who would care if that's you need and don't mind. Constant long trips I think this type car would wear you out. Either way with anything used have them independently checked out before any deal is made,


T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The four banger version had a Toyota engine in it, I believe. I wouldn't touch the 3 cylinder version with a 10 ft pole.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry to even comment on it DS and OP. Really just don't know these at all just one I rented and drove just to a home and back to an airport only. It must have had the 3 cyl as it always felt like it was struggling at normal speeds. I can't imagine that lasting so well for higher mileage.


For all I know whole new engines are cheap enough it may already be done? There's still the whole rest of a car so miles count.


Price, condition and what you plan to use it for and how much. Only you can know what is right for you. If price was no object I would seek out a known better car - several like a Toyota Corolla has impressed me in general,


T

Response From Hammer Time

A Geo Metro with 150K? That thing is already all used up.

I love geo metros

Showing 5 out of 7 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From NJ___Jon on I love geo metros

NO ONE else does. Why do you guys hate them?

Response From Hammer Time

What the hell, rubber bands are much cheaper than gasoline. Just don't let the school bus back over you.

Response From ozwhiz

Geo Metro's are really fun to drive. The one I used to have had a 3 cyl engine. Very easy to pull the engine and reinstall it.

Response From Double J

Don't recall anyone here posting a 'Hate Metro thread.'

If you ask any technician/mechanic/person who works on cars for a living or even one who has a hobby of working on cars ,they'll all tell you something or two that they dislike about any vehicle made.That includes the high end vehicles.
Ask Cadillac technicians after a long day,ask Mercedes Techs after a long day,you'll see what i mean.
Ask a mechanic from an independent shop after a long week of working on a variety of makes...Betcha you hear a few expletives....

As far as a Metro,when they first hit the market ,they were considered a throw away car..used to be called the Bic lighters of the auto industry.
But ,after the last couple years of rising gas prices,the Metros,at least in my market,have made a Comeback ,so to speak.People have started restoring them and/or fixing them up .Some guys i know have picked em up ,repaired them and sold em for profits.
I'll love one of those little B**t**ds if it makes me money!Cash cows...

Response From NJ___Jon

Craigslist is loaded with them. I personally love them.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

NJ___Jon; Funny, was just talking to a customer today about them. They have come out of the woodwork in the past year. Didn't know that there were so many left. I've always thought that they'd make great boat anchors, but, the owners are laughing all the way to the bank, now. My cousin bought one new, many years ago, and boasted 54mpg.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Maybe you are just confused NJ___JON. This is CARJUNKY. Not Craigs List.

1996 geo metro help

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From efcsp4l on 1996 geo metro help

hi guys,

i have a 1996 geo metro, standard.

for the past couple of weeks, she will not start if the temperature outside is 65 or warmer. she cranks but wont start. she starts in the cooler temperatures and seems to run fine. what could this be? :\

its been going on ever since i took her down some pretty bad and bumpy backroads a few weeks back (i knew i shouldnt have) and i cant help but think thats what caused this.

any help is greatly appreciated.

Response From efcsp4l

thanks for the replies. i will start with that.

also, do you guys believe it would be relatively safe to drive a long distance in those cooler temperatures when it starts? im a college student and looking to try to go home for a weekend and its a couple hundred mile drive.

thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

You're quite a gambler if you take that car on a couple hundred mile trip. Nobody can tell you if it's going to quit or not until we know what's doing it.

Response From techforfree

Shouldn't be hard to find,pull a sparkplug wire off and see if its getting spark by inserting a screwdriver in the wire end and holding it about a 1/4 inch from the block or good ground,you should see a nice blue spark while someone is cranking the engine,if theres good spark check the fuel pressure...somethings missing...Good luck

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That's good advice except for the "holding it" part. I don't know if you have ever been bitten by 30,000 volts but it's like a heart defibrillator so I wouldn't be holding the screwdriver. A spark tester would work best.

96 geo metro. cooling fan don't work.

Showing 2 out of 32 Posts | Show 30 Hidden Posts
Question From Timthecarguy719 on 96 geo metro. cooling fan don't work.

The fan on this 96 metro doesn't come on.
The relay is fine, the fan motor is fine, ECT sensor new, fues fine.
If the unplug the ECT the fan comes rite on.
What could be the problem?
I was told it could be a ECM problem.

Thanks very much.

Response From Hammer Time

If the fan runs when the CTS is unplugged, that proves the PCM has control of the fan and the circuit is working. The fan isn't programmed to come on until 208 degrees so it may just not be hot enough for the fan to come on.

Response From Timthecarguy719

I have a 180 degree thermostat in it.
208 is kinda hot no?
I just thought about buying one of those aftermartket fan thermostat systems from JEGS performance.
You can adjust the temp setting on that too It's like $28 bucks.
I'll probably just do that.

Response From Hammer Time

That's one of the worst ideas I ever heard.
The car engineered to run at those temps and you're going to totally screw up the fuel mixture. The car is supposed to have a 195 T-stat and the fan isn't supposed to come on until 208. That's nothing. Some of the other GMs are 227 and higher. Stop screwing with what isn't broken.

Response From Timthecarguy719

The car from the factory came with a 195 degree thermostat.
I like my cars to run as cool as they can.
the fricken car over heated and i had to rebuild the topend because of it not working. Rite now i just have it hard wired to a switch for now.

Response From Hammer Time

That car is engineered to run between 195 and 210. If you try to change that, you are going to screw up a whole bunch on things in the computer. If you want your cars to run that cold, then go buy a 1970's car. This one is not supposed to run that cool.

If you have some other problem causing it to go higher than that, then find the cause of it but don't try to make it run below 190.

Response From Timthecarguy719

It has everything coolant related brand new.
I'm just scared to plug the Fan back in and have it not come on and over head the engine again.
What is i put the coolant temp sensor in a pot of water thats hot enough and turn the key on?
Will that tell me if it's working rite or not?

Response From Hammer Time

You don't even need a fan if the car is moving. The only time it even needs one is when it has an extended period of idling or slow traffic and then is supposed to get a little hotter. You have a temp gauge. If it doesn't go in the red, it doesn't have a problem. As long as the fan kicks in by 210 and it's capable of bringing the temp down, all is OK. If the fan comes on and the temp continues to rise, then you have another issue somewhere.

Response From Timthecarguy719

Ok, But will what i said in the last message work for testing the system?

Response From Hammer Time

That's not going to tell you anything. You need a scan tool to see what the computer sees and a laser thermometer to see the actual engine temp. The scan tool will also tell you when the fan is requested.

Response From Timthecarguy719

My scanner said 158 degrees after it running for probably close to an hour at 57mph.
My scanner isn't that fancy to tell me all the other stuff, It just does codes, monitor information and freeze frame information.

Response From Hammer Time

Use a laser thermometer on the thermostat housing to verify the computer temp reading and see if the sensor is accurate.

Response From Timthecarguy719

Just letting you know you were rite!
I guess i need to not be scared to let it get a little hot.
It got up around 3/4 the way on the temp gauge then it kicked on for a few seconds then off.
I'm very happy! Thanks a bunch!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If temp gauge fluctuated a lot I don't think that all right. If not done I'd consider flushing it out and not to exceed 50/50 antifreeze. Some will on some cars and be normal but most don't much.

You can get a clue if you really are overheating if the heater quits! It won't throw heat with boiling coolant, it must be a liquid,

T

Response From Hammer Time

He doesn't have a problem Tom. He's thinking old school.

Response From Timthecarguy719

Ya got that rite!
I'm very old school when it comes to cars.
I never had a car newer then a 96, everything i always had was 80's or older.
I just thought the cooler the better, but i guess the car needs to be that hot to run rite.
Thanks again man you talked me out of my car running to hot fear!

Response From Hammer Time

Your not the first one to think that. It needs that temp for a number of reasons.

Response From Timthecarguy719

Please tell me all the reasons!
I know that it will use more fuel cause the ECU thinks the engine is cold but, what are the others?

Response From Hammer Time

The ECM is looking for that temp. It won't even go into closed loop if the temp is too low and that means it will ignore the sensor data because it thinks it's in "warm up" mode indefinitely. It also won't burn the fuel totally.

Response From Timthecarguy719

So.., will i get a little better MPG now?

Response From Hammer Time

Possibly. It depends how it's driven. it's a gutless car to start with.

Response From Timthecarguy719

Just to let everyone know!
The car was drove all around today and the fan worked fine.
Thanks again!

Response From Timthecarguy719

Alrite.
I'm new to this forum and so far i love it after just one day.

Thanks very much for your time!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Loooong thread but OK with me as we are here to share what we know as we know it. Retired from any biz of this but still tend to stuff of my own. Just checked on sensor testers vs the boiling water thing which I've done. Yikes - $500US for a cheap one!

These temp sensing sensors change the ohms that pass thru them at specific temps and computer will decide from that info. Guess if still doing more of this I'd get one but sometimes hardly worth it if the part is cheap and all testing shows it highly likely.

Tim - as Hammer has driven the point, the engine really needs to be within a specific range of temp - not too high and definitely not too low or as he said engine's computer controls could always think engine isn't warmed up yet and won't make the best adjustment for the best performance and MPGs + lower emissions which is the goal of all. It's kind of like "Don't mess with Mother Nature" type thing as it was purposely designed and a lot of thought went into even the less expensive cars.

You can buy higher or lower quality of items and frequently find out that the joy of low price doesn't add up to the pain of poor quality and ends up no bargain at all.

Another suggestion by me and no doubt others: Use OE specs for parts and if anything is left that's adjustable put it where it's supposed to be. There are more lies about additives, spark plugs high on the list that make claims of all kinds of extra power and performance and it's almost all bull. If things would improve for real it would have been there and used from new.

When and if there's truly some mistake from new recalls come along,

Tom

Response From Timthecarguy719

Ok, I'll remember that the water test will work if i ever have this problem again.
I thank everyone for all there information and help.

I was just to scared to let it idle that long i guess, but I got over it and turn up the A/C and let her idle for like 20mins and the fan came on twice.
I'm very happy!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Note on A/C + Fans: I don't have a listing of which vehicle do and don't but many when A/C is requested the fans plain stay on. Others will detect the high pressure which equates to how hot the condenser is and only come on at a given set pressure. Either way the output vent temp should remain tolerably cool if thing are all right on the money. I generally don't care for overcomplicated anything car wise but truth is, if it doesn't need the electric fan it is a waste. Generally while driving somewhere over 30mph depending on body style of vehicle, cars no longer need help from a fan - some do even at HWY speeds?

T

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This one has separate condenser and cooling fans.

Response From Timthecarguy719

Yup, The condenser fan comes on when the A/C is turned on and the rad fan comes on when the vehicle needs it, I just turned the A/C on for the test cause it made the engine warm up quicker.

Response From Timthecarguy719

I just got a reading of 106 degees on my multimeter.
My scan tool wont do a freeze frame unless i drive it.

Response From Timthecarguy719

I don't have one.
But i do have temp thingy on my multimeter will that work you think?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The fan can come on so that rules out the motor I hope. If this has A/C will fan just plain run. I think it should just stay on, on this car with A/C and possibly defrost request. Can you please spell out ECT so I don't make a mistake with the acronym? Not sure why it would run with that unplugged and what else it might impact to leave it out and fan running till we can nail this down?

T

Response From Timthecarguy719

E.C.T is Engine coolant temp sensor.