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2006 Nissan Altima Fuel Tank 4 Cyl 2.5L Spectra

P311-26CE08E    NS23A  New

59389 , 172028J020

Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; with California Emissions
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Nissan Altima L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488

Latest Nissan Altima Repair and Fuel Tank Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

nissan altima 1993, strong smell of gas fumes

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From ionmachiman on nissan altima 1993, strong smell of gas fumes


car: nissan altima 1993 se, engine 2.4 l, automatic, 208000 Km
trouble: after driving a while there is a strong smell of gas fumes, outside near the car, on the driver's side. The strongest smell seems to come from somewhere at the middle under the driver's door, not from rear arround the gas tank cap, not from inside (under the rear seat there is a hole to access the fuel tank - not from there for sure). Driving in hot wheather make the smell so strong that it is brought inside the car through the ventilations vents; ; with the engine cold, there is no smell and I looked under the car for signs of gas, but there is not any dripping;
what can be the trouble and what should i check? is there a fire danger?


Response From Loren Champlain Sr

To add to Hammer's suggestions; Fumes could be coming from the vapor cannister, under the hood. When folks fill their fuel tanks and 'top them off' they can actually fill the cannister with raw fuel. (Once the pump clicks off, never add any more fuel.) If the fumes are coming from the vents, it suggests to me that the smell is coming from the engine compartment. Yes, fuel and it's vapors are a fire/explosion hazard and need to be addressed immediately.

Response From ionmachiman

i found that the hose conecting the vapor canister with the intake, was cracked;
i hope it is the only one cracked;
when i replaced it i found a very interesting thing; through the crack i saw something shining;
i cut the old hose and inside was a piece of copper that greatly reduced the diameter of the hose to
the size of a nail; it looks like the seat of a valve with a ball and a spring, and is simetrical at both ends ;
could it be in that a valve and i lost the ball and spring, or some other part is missing...? if not, what is the reason for that piece?
i put it back in the new hose, about the same position i think, but i'm not very confident because
i don't understand the purpose.
now i found a diagram of the evap system and there is something on the connection to the intake, "Main control orifice";
is that the purpose of the piece? to lower the diameter to a very small one?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

ionmachiman; Those pieces could be from the cannister soleniod or the check valve on top of the cannister, itself. Whatever they are, they aren't supposed to be loose in the hose. Are they close to the cannister, or upstream closer to the EGR valve? That should help identify where they came from. Remove the charcoal cannister and see if there is raw fuel in it. There should be none. If there is, you've found the problem. And, the cannister will have to be replaced, too.

Response From ionmachiman Top Rated Answer

On the top of the canister there are 3 hoses; hose to vacuum (from what looks like a plastic dish on the top of the canister), hose to intake (from under what looks like a plstic dish on the top of the canister) and a hose to the fuel system (for fumes i think). I don't know if there are other hoses somewhere under the canister;
Now, the piece i found was in the hose to intake, close to the canister side; on the diagram i showed where I think these three hoses are located (3 blue arrows and text) ; On the diagram is mentioned "Main control orifice" and i think that is the piece i found in the hose; why is in the hose and not in the plastic tube (part of the canister) in which you plug this hose i don't understand; i saw it by chance and i would have replaced the hose without even know about it.
The diameter of the piece fits exactly the hose, and i don't think it can get into the plastic tube on the canister side or into the metalic tube on the intake side;
i attached the evap diagram

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

From the diagram and your description, it sure looks and sounds as if it is the cannister purge valve.

Response From Hammer Time

The fuel lines run along the frame on that side. You likely have a metal gas line that has rusted away and is leaking. That's very dangerous and needs to be taken care of right away. They will have to fabricate a section of line and use "bolt together" unions to splice it.

coputer code p1441

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From wjshivers on coputer code p1441

p1441 2001 nissan altima 4 cylinders /how do i clear code and where can i locate vaccum cut valve bypass valve

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

Your evap charcoal canister or purge valve is probably bad. they are ususally located by the fuel tank/filler neck.

2001 Nissan Altima rough idle mystery!

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From nmwaldron on 2001 Nissan Altima rough idle mystery!

Hi there. I hope someone here can give me an idea of where to go.
I recently purchased a used 2001 Nissan Altima with 150k miles on it. The car ran well, no check engine light. The gas mileage was poor and at idle it would drop to around 500 rpm and feel shaky like it was about to stall but didn't. The gas mileage was poor too. Having owned too many old cars in the past I have some idea of simple maintenance. I figured it just needed a tune up. I replaced all of the plugs and wires (the old ones looked like they had never been changed, the rubber on the wire boots was very worn). I also replaced the distributor cap and the distributor rotor. The gas mileage improved but the car still continued to idle rough, dropping back down to 500rpm etc. At this point, after hours searching the web for ideas I came up with cleaning the MAF sensor. I idiotically broke part of it so I bought a new one and replaced it. This brings me up to now. The car still idles poorly and acts like it will stall. Does anyone have any ideas on where I should look next?
Thanks in advanced.

Response From Discretesignals

Is the check engine light on? If so, have it scanned and write down the code number(s). Does the check engine light bulb check when you turn the ignition on?

How does it run while cruising and accelerating?

Have seen many of those vehicles with bad motor mounts cause rough idle, vibrations, and shaking.

Response From nmwaldron

Hi! Thanks for the response. That's something I forgot to mention. I was struggling with the first spark plug when I removed the others, I had to buy a special tool to get a good enough grip on it to get it out. I'd replaced the other three with no problems (other than them being totally roached!) I ordered the tool to removed the number 1 plug and a week later I finally got the last one out. I think a small part of the rubber boot fell into the spark plug hole. Anyway I installed the final plug (all NKG G-power platinum) and of course it didn't solve the problem but soon after that the check engine light came on. I thought maybe if some of the degraded debris from the wire boot got into the engine filter it may have set it off. I had the code read at autozone and it was a P1441 Evap code. This, of course, from my research could be anything from the gas cap not being on properly/broken to the Catalytic converter needing replacing. That's what led me to the MAF sensor. I also bought I new gas cap but the light is still on.
The car drives good in general, accelerates okay...it's only at red lights/stop signs etc that the RPMs will drop dramatically and the car will start to shake a little.
My next thought was maybe the distributor needed replacing. The whole thing. When I replaced the cap and the rotor I noticed a little oil in there and the rubber seal was half hanging off. I looked to see if you could buy this specific gasket/seal but I can't find it anywhere. It's not the "O" ring but the rubber seal that is between the cap and the rest of the distributor. Obviously I'm loathe to go into replacing the whole distributor if that is not even on the map as far as fixing this problem. I've looked into and can get a used one for around $50 it appears and the installation seems simple enough.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

p1441 means the ECU detected small leaks in the EVAP line between the fuel tank and the purge control valve. Probably wouldn't hurt to do a visual of all the lines and components dealing with the EVAP system.

It is hard to give you advice on this without actually being there to confirm what your feeling. Like I mentioned they had engine mount issues cause rough idling. Did this all the sudden happen or has it been this way since you bought it?

Would be interesting to look at data stream information to see if anything stands out.

Response From nmwaldron

I've only owned the car for maybe three months. It is state and emissions inspected through 01/2016 so it had been inspected I think a few weeks before I bought it. It has driven like that since I purchased it. Like I said, I just thought it was a tune up issue and went through all the steps I know. If I took it to a garage just for them to inspect all the hoses etc to make sure there isn't a vacuum leak how much do you think they would charge? Like a hour's labor? Maybe that's what I'll do. Like I said it's incredibly frustrating and puzzling. I just don't want it to develop into something larger and more expensive down the line.

Response From Discretesignals

Not too sure on what a repair shop would charge you, but an hour probably sounds about right to troubleshoot the P1441 code.

I'm imagining if you had ignition troubles you would be having issues other than idle speed. Most, not all, ignition troubles I've ran into really seem to show up when the engine is under load and the spark demand is high.

Nissan Altima/Bluebird randomly cuts out completely, please help!

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From cozmicf on Nissan Altima/Bluebird randomly cuts out completely, please help!


I have an old family car, an automatic Nissan Bluebird U13 (aka Nissan Altima in the US) built in 1994.

It had been running fine till the start of this year when all of a sudden, as I was pulling out of a parking lot, the car just shut off completely - consequently the steering wheel became very hard to turn and the brakes were very hard to
depress. The immobiliser light came on, as if the car had just been locked (indicator lights light up solid green). I could not turn the car back on.

I called the RAC (roadside assistance in Australia), and they told me they thought it was the crank position sensor. I got it towed to my regular service station and the guy changed this part. The car ran for a while after this, however after a few weeks it happened again, but this time I was able to start it up again. Now it's happening much more often, it'll run ok the first time I start it up but then after I park and start it again shortly afterwards, it just switches off completely like before. The accelerator becomes unresponsive and the car just stalls.

Please help me diagnose this problem, I need my car and am keen to learn more about cars and car repairs (though I am strapped for cash so spare parts will be hard to afford and probably not worth it for such an old car). This is also quite a dangerous problem, I would not dare take this car on the freeway for now.



Another important point is that the "!" light on the dashboard (which is normally associated with the handbrake) and the battery light (but this battery is quite new) would sometimes light up randomly while I was driving (well before the first stall incident) and would flicker or fade when I turned the radio volume knob (which caused heavy distortion in the speakers as well) or turned on the front lights.

Another thing to note is that a few weeks before the first incident, the car would actually not start at all. The fuel at this time was near empty, and when the RAC came they injected fuel directly into the engine and knocked on the fuel tank from underneath the car, this seemed to let it start up. The RAC guy told us that this problem is associated with the fuel pump and will probably start to occur more often but I'm not sure if the crank position sensor problem is related to this

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Anytime a vehicle stalls you lose power assisted steering and brakes and lights will light so that means nothing.

Running it low on fuel if that's a habit will be hard on fuel pumps so your RAC person's trick pretty much says it needs a fuel pump but you won't know for absolute certain unless you can quickly do the diagnosis while it's not running. Lack of fuel seems like the targeted problem. Now to be sure it would need to be caught in the act long enough to find out why but fuel pump would be high on the list,


Response From cozmicf Top Rated Answer

Is there some way to check the fuel pump? Would it cause the whole car to suddenly cut out (on half a tank) while its running?

Could the new crank position sensor be faulty, or some other part in the alternator?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Alone it doesn't matter if the gas tank has enough or not if the fuel pump isn't pumping it. Could be other reasons but in that whacking the tank worked that time does suggest the pump itself.

Alternator would be a dying battery problem not indicated. Crank sensor or any other reason like the silly plug to the fuel pump, a relay just isn't known.
The shock on an electric motor (pump in this case) can make some work again but isn't a fix just a chance to get going in a jam.

This is pre OBDII computer diagnostics so it would have to be witnessed just exactly what the issue is while it wont run.

To add - I didn't think a brake warning light would come on with a stalled engine. You may be low on brake fluid but should be tending to those things all along anyway,


Response From nickwarner

This is OBD1 but it should still be able to show codes. Get it scanned. That holds good information. The guy who hit the tank and got it to start should've told you to replace the fuel pump immediately. He jarred it enough to get a barely working pump to somewhat hold up but its on its last legs. You must replace the fuel filter too when you do this and stop running it low on gas or you will wreck the new pump too. You can measure the pump's output by using a fuel pressure tester connected to the fuel rail at its test port. There is a specification for fuel pressure and if it gets below spec it will cause stalling and misfires. Eventually it just won't start until it is replaced.

Pay some good attention to your battery cable connections as well. Take them apart and use a battery terminal cleaning tool or sandpaper to clean them shiny. Coat them with dielectric grease to prevent future oxidation that will give you a poor connection. This likely has nothing currently to do with what is happening but is important routine maintenance and will hold off future issues.

altima 93 won't very hard start on engine cold

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From ionmachiman on altima 93 won't very hard start on engine cold


My car is a nissan altima 1993, 2.4l, automatic transmission, 200000 Km.
The problem is the car starts very hard when the engine is cold, and only after lots of cranking;
after it starts it works with no problems, there is no stalling, keeps rpm constant with no hesitation
or erratic increasing. It also accelerates ok, and everything else looks to be fine.
When the engine is warm it starts with no problem, even a couple of hours after i stopped it.

What should I check and how?

Thank you

Response From Guest

i checked the codes with engine warm and there shows no troubles; should i check again with the engine cold???

Response From autojoe

possible bad coolant temperature sensor.if have a scan tool look at sensor with engine cold and compare to ambient temperature.If no scan tool check resistance of sensor and compare resistance value to temperature of coolant....with cold would be close to ambient temperature.If you need chart I can email you one.most of the time on obd1 vehicles there are no codes.possible low fuel pressure?good plugs and wires?if you open throttle a little will it start easier?

Response From ionmachiman

-checked coolant sensor and ok
-installed fuel gauge, key on (engine not running, fuel pump is zooming) nothing on gauge; after couple of trials
about 30 psi on gauge going down (not very sure because i was alone, but there was some pressure but i'm not sure about levels; anyway under the normal)
-changed fuel filter
-testing again couple of times nothing on gauge (fuel pump is zooming)

Response From autojoe

what do you mean fuel pump is zooming?Is the gauge working?Try on another vehicle.If fuel pressure is good and then drops then possible bad fuel pump check valve/faulty fuel pressure regulator/leaking injector.

Response From ionmachiman Top Rated Answer

zooming like making zoomzoom
ty guys, it was so amazing what i found
a hose in the fuel tank was somehow turned and squeezed;
when cold it let out only a little gas, so the engine started after a lot of cranking;
after starting, as the gas was sucked in + warming up, the hose was dilated just enough to have a good start
after i checked the gas output from the tank, i thought that the pump is defective;
i opened the tank and h'seen the hose turned and i thought to check it;
i think such a circumstance is very rare
ty again

Response From autojoe

seen once before but is rare.Glad you got it fixed.Thanks for letting us know fix.

Response From ionmachiman

checked coolant sensor and is ok
checked the fuel pressure:
-installed the pressure gauge
-key on engine not running (i heard the fuel pump zooming) no pressure
-after other couple of key on engine not running, the gauge showed about 30 psi (normal about 40) then
went down to 15
-changed the fuel filter
- key on couple of times (fuel pump is zooming) nothing on gauge