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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • LKQ
    LKQ
  • Spectra
    Spectra

Best Selling Genuine Mercury Fuel Tanks

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, LKQ
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mercury Replacement Fuel Tank Parts

We stock Fuel Tank parts for most Mercury models, including Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mountaineer, Sable.

Dorman
2005 Mercury Sable Fuel Tank 6 Cyl 3.0L Dorman

P311-4C44B50    576-186  New

6F1Z9002B , F39H , 4F1Z9002AA , 5F1Z9002AA , 6F1Z9002A

Qty:
$164.82
Dorman Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm ?Çô Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Capacity: 18 Gal.
    • Fuel Tank Coating: Paint
    • Height: 9.5 In.
    • Package Contents: Fuel Tank , Lock Ring, O Ring
    • Width:
      • 44.5
      • 44.5 In.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mercury Sable U V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2986
Dorman
1968 Mercury Cougar Fuel Tank Dorman

P311-5159DBD    576-036  New

F28A

Qty:
$82.63
Dorman Fuel Tank
  • w/Drain Plug
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm ?Çô Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Capacity: 16 Gal.
    • Fuel Tank Coating: Paint
    • Height: 8 In.
    • Package Contents: Fuel Tank
    • Width:
      • 24.5
      • 24.5 In.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1968 - Mercury Cougar
LKQ
1978 Mercury Marquis Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-57922F5    TNKF27D  New

Qty:
$265.50
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 24 gallon, w/o auxiliary tank
  • FUEL TANK; 75-78 FORD FULL SIZE SEDAN; 24 GALLON; WITHOUT AUXILIARY
  • TANK
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1978 - Mercury Marquis
LKQ
1994 Mercury Grand Marquis Fuel Tank LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-370E6FD    FTK010094  New

Qty:
$104.34
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 40 3/4 x 17 3/4 x 9 1/4, lock ring kit included
  • FUEL TANK; 90-94 FORD/MERC FULLSIZE
  • Platinum Pro
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Fuel Delivery Type
1994 - Mercury Grand Marquis Sedan FI
LKQ
2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-39C0653    TNKF42D  New

Qty:
$261.58
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 19 gallon, includes lock ring kit
  • FUEL TANK; 01-08 CROWN VIC; 19 GALLON; INCLUDES LOCK RING KIT;
  • EXCEPT POLICE PACKAGE MODELS
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Mercury Grand Marquis
LKQ
2011 Mercury Grand Marquis Fuel Tank 8 Cyl 4.6L LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-420BDD8    FTK010063  New

Qty:
$121.88
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 19 Gallon; 18 1/4 x 42 1/2 x 9 1/4; W/ Lock Ring Kit; W/O Rollover Valve; W/O Police Pkg
  • FUEL TANK 19 GALLON; INCLUDES LOCK RING KIT; WITHOUT ROLL-OVER VALVE;
  • Platinum Pro
  • WITHOUT POLICE INTERCEPTOR PACKAGE
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Grand Marquis V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
LKQ
1998 Mercury Tracer Fuel Tank LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-3E4C9D8    FTK010066  New

Qty:
$104.03
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 12.7 gallon, 38 x 28 x 7, lock ring kit included
  • FUEL TANK 12.7 GALLON
  • Platinum Pro
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Mercury Tracer
LKQ
2001 Mercury Mountaineer Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-32DE3CC    TNKF49C  New

Qty:
$400.65
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 21 gallon, includes lock ring kit
  • FUEL TANK; 97-01 EXPLORER; 21 GALLON; INCLUDES LOCK RING KIT
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Mercury Mountaineer
LKQ
1985 Mercury Capri Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-0D3D8EC    TNKF12B  New

Qty:
$194.53
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • FUEL TANK; 83-97 MUSTANG WITH FI
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery Type
1985 - Mercury Capri FI
LKQ
2005 Mercury Sable Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-1D99ED8    TNKF39G  New

Qty:
$249.07
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • ID 1F12-AA
  • FUEL TANK; 00-07 TAURUS ID 1F12-AA
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Mercury Sable
LKQ
1997 Mercury Sable Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-5619D15    TNKF39B  New

Qty:
$225.55
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 18 gallon
  • FUEL TANK; 96-97 TAURUS 18 GALLON
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Mercury Sable
LKQ
1974 Mercury Montego Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-29C4AA2    TNKF4A  New

Qty:
$297.67
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 26 gallon, with lock rings
  • FUEL TANK; 74-76 TORINO 26 GALLON; WITH LOCK RINGS
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1974 - Mercury Montego
LKQ
1989 Mercury Grand Marquis Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-3E33CB4    TNKF17  New

Qty:
$162.42
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • For Models With Pump Located In Tank
  • FUEL TANK; 82-89 FORD FULL SIZE WITH FUEL INJECTION; FOR VEHICLES
  • WITH PUMP IN TANK
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery Type
1989 - Mercury Grand Marquis FI
LKQ
2011 Mercury Grand Marquis Fuel Tank 8 Cyl 4.6L LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-2DEA27F    FTK010658  New

Qty:
$118.95
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 19 Gallon; 18 1/4 x 42 1/2 x 9 1/4; W/ Lock Ring Kit; W/ Rollover Valve
  • FUEL TANK 4.6LTR V8; 19 GALLONS; WITH ROLL-OVER VALVE
  • Platinum Pro
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Grand Marquis LS V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
LKQ
2004 Mercury Marauder Fuel Tank 8 Cyl 4.6L LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-420BDD8    FTK010063  New

Qty:
$121.88
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 19 gallon, 18 1/4 x 42 1/2 x 9 1/4, lock ring kit included
  • FUEL TANK 19 GALLON; INCLUDES LOCK RING KIT; WITHOUT ROLL-OVER VALVE;
  • Platinum Pro
  • WITHOUT POLICE INTERCEPTOR PACKAGE
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mercury Marauder V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
LKQ
1968 Mercury Park Lane Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-43E1F6F    TNKF47A  New

Qty:
$571.35
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 25 gallon, includes lock ring kit
  • FUEL TANK; 67-70 TBIRD; 25 GALLON; INCLUDES LOCK RING KIT
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1968 - Mercury Park Lane
LKQ
1963 Mercury Comet Fuel Tank LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-3519543    FTK010086  New

Qty:
$114.57
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 16 gallon,aftermarket style,w/drain plug, 32-5/8x24-1/2x8,w/lock ring kit, when replacing 14gallon tank w/16gallon you must use FSU010149 sending unit
  • FUEL TANK 16 GALLON
  • Platinum Pro
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1963 - Mercury Comet
LKQ
1968 Mercury Cougar Fuel Tank LKQ

P311-57FE5BB    TNKF28A  New

Qty:
$170.96
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 16 gallon, with drain plug
  • FUEL TANK; 64-68 MUSTANG 16 GALLON; WITH DRAIN PLUG
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1968 - Mercury Cougar
LKQ
1969 Mercury Cougar Fuel Tank LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-31AEC0A    FTK010186  New

Qty:
$90.56
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 20 gallon, with drain plug, 32 5/8 x 24 1/2 x 9, lock ring kit included
  • FUEL TANK 20 GALLON
  • Platinum Pro
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1969 - Mercury Cougar
Dorman
1988 Mercury Cougar Fuel Tank Dorman

P311-0E8E4F5    576-132  New

F23B , E8SZ9002A

Qty:
$143.50
Dorman Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm ?Çô Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Fuel Tank Coating: Paint
    • Height: 9.75
    • Package Contents: Fuel Tank , Lock Ring, O Ring
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Mercury Cougar

Latest Mercury Repair and Fuel Tank Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Mountaineer fuel pump?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From gchoyle on Mountaineer fuel pump?

I've got a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer Premier V8 4.6L running just fine, then just died while running down the street. Tries to start but acts likes its not getting any gas. Could it be the fuel pump or something worse.

Thanks
G

Response From gchoyle Top Rated Answer

I changed the fuel filter after I found it, on the top of the front side of the fuel tank by the passenger door. Had to go buy a tool at O'reillys for 3.49. It did a self test and it came up with error codes of E013, D900, 9318 and 9352. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
G

Strong Gas Odor

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From bigjohn on Strong Gas Odor

1995 Mercury Grand Marquis, 4.6 engine, aprox. 152,000 miles

I'm experiencing a strong odor of gas while driving, but no gas visible on ground. I just trailered the car to Arizona from Wisconsin, recently I've replaced the engine computer, and I had a brake line to the rear axle replaced. What should I look at first in trying to find the problem? Thanks in advance for any insight you may be able to give me.

Big John

Response From Hammer Time

Fuel leaks will rarely hit the ground before evaporating. If you smell the fuel, then you have a leak and it has to be found. It may only leak when the engine is running and the system is under pressure but there is a leak somewhere to be found. It could be anywhere between the fuel tank and the fuel injector.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

This is originally a WI car? You've got rust. Get the car up in the air on jackstands and start it up. Look real close at the top of the fuel tank where the sending unit pipe comes out along with following the pressure and return lines forward. If you start up fast and easy I would suspect the return side. When you had that brake line done the others were disturbed and with salted lines they tend to break. I would recommend you replace all the steel lines on the car now or it will come back to bite you, especially the brakes. You have one brake line new you said, but any of the others will go out without warning and when you need them the most. Make sure you are using a bright flashlight, it doesn't take much gas to give you a heavy gas odor.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just re-read that "TO" AZ from WI. Hmmm - as Nick and I know so well vehicles North of I-90 give or take need to be hermetically sealed for all months but perhaps July and August or just mark your calendar for replacing lines, even the low mounted fuel filters rust out, gas tanks and more.

Trouble is if the fix was rust it is there and doesn't heal when removed from that. It will slow down. Any brake and fuel lines that can flake rust should be replaced before failures never welcome,

Tom (Rustochusetts, USA)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

! Brake line replaced for an Arizona car! OK - go look at the fuel line(s) if touched in fixing brake lines,

T

1987 Mercury Sable

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1987 Mercury Sable

This car has been sitting for over 4 years without being run. Since the car only has 38k miles and use to run okay, I'd like to try to get it to run again. Since the gas in it is probably bad by now what is the best way to get it up and running? Can I just put in a new battery and try and crank her up or will the 'bad' gas cause additional issues? Any advice is greatly appreciated

Response From steve01832

Another tip, before you fire it up you may want to unplug the ignition module electrical connector (on the distributor) and crank it over a couple of times for no more than 15 seconds each. Then reconnect the plug and fire it up. This will build oil pressure so the engine isn't running dry. Only unplug this connector, if you unplug the coil the injectors will pulse and you could flood the engine.

Steve

Response From Guest

Oh yes indeed that cheap little fuel filter is a big help for the fuel delivery & pressure regulation.

Response From gottago

Hey folks... Thanks for the replies and advice. I am now thinking of selling it for parts rather than attempting to fixup. I am not so mechanically inclined to take on a project like this. Given your rplies, I feel a little better equipped to at least look at the various alternatives.

Thanks again...

gottago...

Response From ilovericeandmuscle

Just a suggestion, a car with mileage that low is worth more than parts.You could easily sell it for $1000.Given its described condition.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Well dusting off a previously well running vehicle requires a few steps but nothing too bad.Yes change the fuel for sure,I wouldn't recommend any fuel that's sat for more than a year without treatment.You can drain it with a siphon kit (@ auto prts store)wich can require patience in both siphoning and draining,or if it's equipped with anti siphon screen (I'm not sure about your model) then unclamp the gas fillthroat from the tank end and drain (use extreme caution with spark,metal contact spark and storage material) and remember use brass tools around the fuel tank (doesn't spark).Don't forget you might need charging system parts replaced due to excessive corrosion i.e. battery,alternator,sylenoid and/or starter motor.If a proper contact cleaning doesn't work first.Any more questions about refreshing your vehicle feel free to post here and I'll help.

Thanks,Jim

Response From Tom Greenleaf

As Jim said you will need a new battery and more. If this car was outdoors the brakes will be in trouble from rust. SeaFoam is a great, strong gas treatment for any remaining fuel and would help. A new fuel filter is a must too.

Expect a few crazy problems but you can get thru it, T

1963 Monteray

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From (Insert Name Here) on 1963 Monteray

Hi, new to the forum.

I am coming into possession of a 1963 mercury monteray sold to me from my uncles girlfriend and I have some questions. It has been sitting outside for 3 years. I suspect they have done some work on the body and engine before parking it. She said it ran before they parked it but it likely needs some work now. My question is what parts are likely to need to be replaced on a vehicle that has been sitting so long?

So far I already plan on changing out the starter, hoses, belts, wires (maybe), carburetor (also maybe) and brake pads if needed. Anything else I may be missing? Im not a mechanic but Im a handy person.

Response From (Insert Name Here)

Thanks alot for your responses, Ive saved them for future reference.

Response From zmame

It will be some work if it has only been sitting 3 years might not need to much. I would check:

wires, caps and rotors
fresh battery
pull plugs and throw little ATF down each cylinder to loosen rings (let sit for 6hrs), replace plugs if needed
change oil&filter
drain gas and put fresh
change fuel filter

once ATF has sat for a while crank over with plugs still out to with towel over all cylinders to blow out excess ATF. Re-install plugs. remove breather dump little gas down the carb see if it will fire. may have to do a few times till all the old gas is out of the lines.

Depending how gummed up the carb is to, it might need to be rebuilt.

just have to work out any other problems as they happen.

I recommend having a fire extinguisher handy just in case.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You will probably also have to drop the fuel tank. The tank may need to be replaced and the line flushed out if moisture in the tank rusted it out. You may also have to rebuild or replace the fuel pump if the diaphragm is rotted out.

Do one system at a time. Start with getting the engine running. Once you get the engine running then go after the transmission. After that, tackle the brakes and then steering. Don't try to do everything at one time.

1997 Ford Taurus 3.0l Problems Starting

Showing 2 out of 25 Posts | Show 23 Hidden Posts
Question From Saibot on 1997 Ford Taurus 3.0l Problems Starting

Hey,

I have a 1997 Ford Taurus with starting issues.

It's takes a few tries before it starts, and when it does it'll go up to around 1500RPM and then slowly drop back down before shutting off (takes around 3 seconds). Most of the time it sounds like it's going to start, jumps up to around 500RPM and then shuts off again. When it does start to idle, any use of the gas pedal will only get it to shut off even faster.

The car has been sitting for the last 3 months or so, and it has 169XXX miles on it. I think the problem may be fuel pump related. When you turn the key into the on position, you can hear it come on for a second, but it seems to be much quieter than the pump on my 1996 Mercury Sable. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, I'll probably pick up a gauge later today.

Thanks in advance.

-Saibot

Response From Saibot

Well, I got the new fuel pump assembly in the mail Saturday and installed it that evening. After the install, I primed it a few times and it cranked right up. Looks like that problem is solved. :D

The car does have some other minor issues. If there is something I can't figure out, should I just post the problem in this thread, or should I make a new one?

Thanks again for all the help.

-Saibot

Response From Hammer Time

No, start a new question for a new problem.

I will close this one as solved.

Response From Hammer Time

The first step is to take a pressure reading noting not only the pressure but how fast it comes up and what it does when the key is shut off.

Response From Saibot

Alright, I bought a gauge and hooked it up to the valve next to the FPR. While I was screwing it on, a little fuel came out, but I'm guessing that's normal. After that, I primed the pump a few times, and started the engine, but the gauge was on 0 the whole time.

-Saibot

Response From Hammer Time

OK, now you have to find out why. Test for power and ground arriving at the pump and once confirmed, you can blame the pump.

Response From Saibot

I just checked the pink/black stripe wire connected to the inertia switch in the trunk. When the key is turned on it would read 7-9 volts for a second or so and then go back to 0. When cranking, it would read around 5 volts. I'm not sure if this is the correct place to do the test, or if the readings are normal?

Thanks.

-Saibot

Response From Hammer Time

The correct place would be coming out of the Inertia switch but you need to unplug the pump to determine if it's pulling the voltage down. You also need to verify the ground to the pump is good.

Response From Saibot Top Rated Answer

Alright, so I'll be dropping the fuel tank either way? Unless I can disconnect the pump without doing that?

Response From Hammer Time

You should be able to unplug it without dropping the tank.

Response From Saibot

I'll give it a shot sometime tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.

-Saibot

Response From Tom Greenleaf

A suggestion here removed. Not consistent for non professionals,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's not good for open web, I'll take out that post. We may do stuff for testing but not for unknown DIYers............ Tom

Took that out. Not proper and I should know better for open web things to unknown people. People I know just plain call me!

.............. Tom

Response From Hammer Time

That test was fine if you're trying to find out if the Inertia switch is good but I'm trying to find out if the pump is overloading the circuit.

Response From Saibot

I did some more testing with the inertia switch disconnected. When first turned on, the green/yellow wire would jump up to around 12 volts, then go down to around 7.5 volts and just sit there. Once the switch was reconnected, that voltage dropped down to 0. I also tested it again with the switch connected, but this time I had the battery hooked up to another car with jumper cables, as it was a little low. When first turned on, the pink/black wire would get around 12 volts and then drop down to 0. When cranking, it would get 7-12 volts. I haven't done anything underneath the car yet.

Thanks.

-Saibot

Response From Hammer Time

You've confirmed everything is good up to the inertia switch. If everything is good for the last few feet to the pump, then you have a bad pump.

Response From Saibot

Alright, that's good enough for me. I think I'll just go ahead and order a new pump. I'll post the results after I replace it.

Thanks for all the help!

-Saibot

Response From Hammer Time

You could always try smacking the tank with a 2X4 or rubber hammer while someone is cranking it and see if you get any fuel pressure that way. That would also confirm a bad pump.

Response From Saibot

Alright, I just tried that a few times, but it didn't seem to make a difference.

Thanks.

Response From Discretesignals

Just a suggestion. Inspect the bottom of the tank for contaminates.

If your unsure, drain the tank and wash it out with soap and water. Then let it dry out. Contaminates will kill your new pump and the manufacture won't honor the warranty if they determine the cause of the pump defect was contamination from crap in the tank. Also change the fuel filter anytime you install a new pump.

Response From Saibot

Will do. Thanks for the tip.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To original person/poster. I messed up, my fault. Please forgive me as I do this as all for free to try to help and failed. It happens. I could pick a ton of excuses none would suffice.

This thread is in good hands. Let it be,

Tom Greenleaf

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This thread seems to be going no where. My fault in part and sorry for that. I don't need to read this whole thing but you should be testing stuff out and target the issue even if the last thing you check you rule things out one at a time. Just me, don't rule out that you might have just plain flooded this thing out which will confuse the whole mess,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Going nowhere?????????????

He has no fuel pressure and we just pretty much confirmed a bad fuel pump. We're doing just fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

We should drop it. Did that in bone yards maybe once to make an engine run to check. They or the one was fried and not the issue that doesn't belong here now..............

Tom