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Spectra
2008 Mazda Tribute Fuel Tank 4 Cyl 2.3L Spectra

P311-4057293    F89A  New

50344 , 164 , ZZCA42110A , ZZCA42110 , 19700164 , 8M6Z9002B , 8M6Z9002A , FT4172

Qty:
$432.24
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8587: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Mazda Tribute ELECTRIC/GAS L 4 Cyl 2.3L 140 -
Spectra
2008 Mazda Tribute Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-5F324E1    F89B  New

50347 , 19700166 , 166 , FT4173 , ZZC242110 , 8L8Z9002B , KF89B

Qty:
$412.16
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • w/o Onboard Vapour Recovery System
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8588: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2008 - Mazda Tribute GAS
Spectra
2009 Mazda Tribute Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-4763696    F89C  New

19700251 , ZZCB42110 , 251 , 9M6Z9002A , ZZCB42110A , FT4174 , 9M6Z9002B

Qty:
$438.82
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8589: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2009 - Mazda Tribute ELECTRIC/GAS
Spectra
2009 Mazda Tribute Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-0632586    F89D  New

9L8Z9002B , ZZC442110A , FT4175 , ZZC442110 , 9L8Z9002A , 252 , 19700252

Qty:
$362.69
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8590: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2009 - Mazda Tribute GAS
Spectra
2006 Mazda Tribute Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-166CDC9    F89F  New

5L8Z9002BH , 19702118 , 5L8Z9002CH , 2118 , KF89F , ZZC042110B , ZZC042110 , 2117 , 7L8Z9002A , 5L8Z9002CK , 7L8Z9002B , 6L8Z9002CA , 5L8Z9002CA , 6L8Z9002BA , 5L8Z9002A , 5L8Z9002BA , 5L8Z9002B , FT4177 , 19702117 , 576993 , 5L8Z9002C , 50113

Qty:
$487.80
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8592: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2006 - Mazda Tribute GAS
Spectra
1990 Mazda Protege Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-04D3532    MZ10  New

58643 , 576700 , FLMZ10 , FT121 , KMZ10 , IMZ10 , RMZ10 , BR7042110B

Qty:
$135.74
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 38 1/8 in. x 28 3/8 in. x 8 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8943: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
1990 - Mazda Protege FWD
Spectra
1995 Mazda Protege Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-04D3532    MZ10  New

58643 , 576700 , FLMZ10 , FT121 , KMZ10 , IMZ10 , RMZ10 , BR7042110B

Qty:
$135.74
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 38 1/8 in. x 28 3/8 in. x 8 in. Lock Ring Kit Included VIN JM1BG
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8943: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Protege
Spectra
1998 Mazda MPV Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-0E7EE88    MZ12A  New

58605 , KMZ12A , RMZ12A , FT122 , FLMZ12A , LA0142110M , 576702

Qty:
$146.37
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 24 3/4 in. x 48 3/4 in. x 8 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8944: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
1998 - Mazda MPV RWD
Spectra
1998 Mazda MPV Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-3CD1B94    MZ14A  New

FT123 , 58607 , LA1242110B

Qty:
$226.85
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 40 in. x 23 in. x 8-3/4 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8945: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
1998 - Mazda MPV 4WD
Spectra
1998 Mazda Protege Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-0B7F829    MZ16A  New

FT124 , 58889 , BC1M42110B

Qty:
$203.82
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 38 1/4 in. x 25 1/2 in. x 7 3/4 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8946: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Mazda Protege

Latest Mazda Repair and Fuel Tank Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

my mazda

Showing 3 out of 15 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From booner88 on my mazda

its a 2000 mazda protege 1.6 liter dohc 4cyl with 145,000 miles just recently i hooked my subwoofers and amp up the right way and now my cars interior fan wont turn on i checked all the fuses and made sure everything was plugged into the switch and nothing no heat or a/c the light comes on the button for the a/c and the rear defroster but no fan its not making any noise either

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Undo the crap you just did and see if you get stuff back. Aftermarket stuff almost always causes problems,

T

Response From booner88

i undid everything still no power do u have another way i can try

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You may have tapped into wires that you shouldn't have. Go back and undo it. Power aftermarket stuff on its own - there should be power at fuse box to do that without messing with other things. Keep stuff fused!

T

Response From booner88

my amp has its own fuse wich u connect to the positive terminal on the battery and my amp is screwed to the back of the box. I undid every single wire to my amp and subwoofers and disconected the power supply to it and the ground wire also my subs and amp runs off its own fuse wich is seprate from all the other fuses and is in a good location by the battery I hooked up everything correctly nothing positive and negative touching and the fan will not power on however I checked everything with a power tester and the light from the screwdriver came on every time i touched it on the metal where the wires are connected to the plugs for the fan every single time i touched one it lit up so its gettin power it has multiple plugs and all have got power to them im short on cash and know if a shop does it its really gonna cost cause the cheapest i can get is 60$ an hour for work wich sucks i see ur asc certified so u know what ur doin

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yup ASE cert and would not adivise after marke sh*t for just the problems you are having. BTW - goind labor rate is $105 here - you'd go nuts!

T

Response From booner88

tom,so what ur saying is ur a certified mechanic that has worked on cars for numerous years and u have never ran into a problem like this and u couldnt tell me how to fix it I told u my subs and amp run off its own fuse not in the fuse box but seperate so how could i have tapped into wires that had nothing to do with the fan at all its all getting power can u help or not it would greatly be appreciated if u know whats going on u can help me it is winter I have a 3 year old son that is sick because of it thank you

Response From Hammer Time

Of course he never ran into it because we send stuff like that down the road and don't work on them. Nobody can tell you what you did wrong to cause this and frankly, you'll be lucky to get anyone who even wants to try.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Booner - what was wrong with original stereo to cause you to mess up the car? It's a car not a home stereo - what were you thinking about? If something doesn't just plug into a power port your on your own!

T

Response From booner88

my car never came with the original stereo I had to put one in it so i got a dvd player for it with a slide out screen and a dash mount kit and the wiring harness to the player connects right to the harness in my car so its just a plug in process I never touched any of the wires for the fan and the subs and amp run off the battery under the hood the positive terminal with a fuse on its own its not tied in with any other wiring it has its own wires wich all plug into the dvd player a mechanic will touch it i talked to one he said that its probally something simple but didnt give me a clue of what it would be. could it be the switch panel itself do they go bad and do you know any thing about car audio u seem like u dont so here we go in a wiring kit for an amp u have an 8 guage power wire a fuse an 8 guage ground wire a remote wire,speaker wire and and two wires with plugs that plug into the amp and the dvd player the power wire you take and cut a 5 inch section off and connect to the back side of the fuse and then the peice u cut off goes into the front of the fuse wich connects to ur battery the wire runs all the way to the amp the ground wire you plug into the amp then find a place to get ground the remote wire you run from the amp and connect it to the dvd players harness and the speaker wire u just connect to the subs then the amp and there you go u have a system

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>and there you go u have a system<<
And, only if it worked? Might want to try CarToys or Best Buy. They 'deal' with this stuff everyday. Obviously, something is wrong. No matter how you wire the system, the original car/charging/ground wiring is not designed for this. I admit that this is possible, just will require someone with this type of knowledge to 'figure it out'.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Tom; I'll never forget this one....a kid hooked up his stereo to the power feed for the computer. When he'd turn on his stereo, the car would die. Drove me nuts figuring it out. Twenty years ago....

Response From Hammer Time

I've seen a few screw down their amp in the trunk floor right through the fuel tank.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

That reminds me of another one. Dropped a fuel tank; Found about eight gallons of water in the tanK. Turned out that a screw lodged between the spare tire and the floor board had worn it's way into the tank. Being a Camero and the hatchback leaking, the water drained right into the gas tank. At least, it didn't get on the ground? LOL.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Both of you - stop scaring me!

Tom

1983 Mazda truck with electrical problems..

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From petelg on 1983 Mazda truck with electrical problems..

Hi fellas... I have and old Mazda B2000 work truck that's just used for hauling off trash in... It's a 1983, standard transmission; 6cyl carburated. My problem is I'm not getting fire back to my fuel pump.. I can turn the ignition switch on and at timesthe dash lights with work and sometimes not... When they do I get fire back to the fuel pump. The engine will always turn over even if the dash lights fail to connect..I did try to enstall a starter switch to see if that was my problem. I enstall it to the back of the key ignition and plugged it in but that failed to be the problem...Since it's and old work truck and I really don't have the knowledge or paitience to figure these electrical problems out can I just rig up something that will get me juice going back to the fuel pump..Like I said the engine turns over when you turn the ignition switch and I really don't need all of the electrical stuff working.. Just the starter and fuel pump..No, I'm not a very bright mechanic but if someone will walk me thru a solution I'd really appreciate it...Thanks......Pete

Response From Hammer Time

You said it was carburated. Why would it have an electric fuel pump?

Response From petelg Top Rated Answer

I don't know how many owners it's had before it fell into our hands..But the fuel pump sits on the frame next to the fuel tank.. It has a two wire electrical connection coming from the top of the fuel tank that plugs into the fuel tank pig tail.. One small wire is "black" and the other is "black&white"...Does that help any... Thanks...Pete

Response From Discretesignals

The black white wire is the hot wire from the ignition switch. It should have 12 volts on it with the ignition turned on. The black wire is the ground to the frame. It should have less than 0.3 volt drop with the ignition turned on.

Why would it have an electric fuel pump?

A lot of Asian vehicles those years had low pressure electric fuel pumps.

Response From petelg

Can I run a direct wire from the battery...or hot wire directly to the fuel pump and turn it on by an inline swith under the dash orwill it burn it up?..

Response From Hammer Time

It needs to be powered through the ignition switch. You don't want the pump to run with the key off.

Response From petelg

I can't locate a "black & white" wire coming off of the ignition switch..

Response From Hammer Time

It goes through a 15amp fuse after leaving the ignition switch.

Response From MarineGrunt


It goes through a 15amp fuse after leaving the ignition switch.



Speaking of fuse......have you even checked the fuse?

Response From petelg

Well I call myself checking connections...fuses and everything else I could think of... Would the "black and white" wire that goes to the fuel pump be a different color coming off of the ignition switch? And the 15 amp fuse your referring to?... Is it under the dash also( haven't seen any fuse under there) or located somewhere else...And thanks again for helping me...Pete

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, it's going to be a different color because it is not the only accessory being run off that feed. You really should have been testing all of your fuses with a test light before even posting here. That's basic stuff.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pete - even 1983 I think most of these had substandard battery cable ends right at battery. If the prime source of all electric power is marginal so will everything else it's doing. Check that. Neg off first, on last and everything at battery needs to end up clean and tight - wire brush, sandpaper or a quality new splice end up to whole new cable if a horror show there,

T

Response From petelg

Hi fella's...I found and appropriate "hot" wire coming off of the ignition switch... It is a "black and white" wire. I tied into it and run it under the foor board and tied it into the pigtail on the fuel pump. I also run a ground wire from the other terminal on the pig tail and grounded it to the frame...So far everything seems to be working fine... I can hear the fuel pump working when I turn the ignition on and its been starting everytime.. As long as I can drive it one one end of the yard to the other and drop off limbs at the burning pile I'll be staisitied with it... lol... Thanks everyone for your help...Pete

Response From Hammer Time

That will work good right up to the point where the truck catches fire.

That's not the way to fix this problem.

Response From Discretesignals

I'll bring the marsh mellows and hot dogs. HT, you bring the beer and women...LOL


Response From Discretesignals

6 cylinder?

With the ignition on or in the start position you should have 12 volts to the fuel pump. Have you checked for voltage at the pump?

dies while driving

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on dies while driving

have a '94 mazda 323....punctured a gas tank a few months ago..had a replacement put on...a few weeks later...my car would sputter, then die when driving. I could start it, drive about a mile, then it would do the same thing..over and over again. The first time it happened I let it sit for about a week, then drove it for a week without incident...now it's doing it again...is it related to my gas take replacement?? Once started...it drives fine, not rough, until I hit that mile mark or so....thanks for any ideas

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just a thought: Is the fuel tank well installed and grounded properly? Did the fuel pump get damaged or near the damage area of the old tank? Something may be wrong there,

T

2000 Mazda Miata Engine Shuts Down

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From themartinranch on 2000 Mazda Miata Engine Shuts Down

2000
Mazda
Miata LS
1.8L I4 FI DOHC 16V
133,000 Miles

I recently purchased a 2000 Mazda Miata LS with 133K miles at an estate auction. The car had been sitting for six months with a near-empty fuel tank. CarFax indicated one owner car with no accidents or repair work.

Upon purchase, I immediately stopped at the Exxon station, poured in a can of SeaFoam, and filled up the tank with 92 octane. The car ran fine; however, after 20 min the check engine light illuminated. I wasn’t greatly concerned as I realize high mileage engines can have minor sensor problems that pop the MIL.

I drove the car about 150 miles inside two weeks (this car was purchased as a Sunday-Go-Driving vehicle) and parked it in the garage. Two weeks later, I decided to drive the car 300 miles to visit family. 200 miles into the trip, the car shut down while cruising at 70 MPH.

I pulled over and immediately tried restarting the engine. The engine would turn over easily, but it wouldn’t fire. After letting the car sit for 20 min, I tried again. This time the engine fired and ran smoothly. Ten minutes later, while approaching a small town, the engine shut down again. There was no sputtering involved, only an immediate shutdown of the engine while all other electronics worked fine.

I called a local mechanic, and he drove over 30 min later, looked over the car, and couldn’t find an obvious problem. The car then started up fine, so I followed the mechanic to his shop. He ran codes, and two popped:

P0402 MAZDA - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected
Possible causes
- Open or shorted CKP sensor circuit condition
- Poor CKP sensor electrical connection
- Check communication error between the ECM and TCM
- Failed CKP Sensor

P0725 MAZDA - Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
Possible causes
- Open or shorted CKP sensor circuit condition
- Poor CKP sensor electrical connection
- Check communication error between the ECM and TCM
- Failed CKP Sensor

While at the mechanic’s shop, the car continued to run for 45 min at idle without any problems. He recommended I proceed on my trip since he couldn’t duplicate the problem. I drove the final 100 miles to my destination without issues.

The next morning, I purchased a fuel filter with the intent to change upon arrival back at my ranch. I began driving the 300 mile trip home, but 150 miles into the trip the engine shut down again at cruise speed. I pulled over, waited 20 min, and the engine started fine. Drove 15 miles farther, stopped at a convenience store so my girlfriend could use the bathroom. After five minutes of idling, the engine shut down again.

This was last Sunday, and all mechanics in that small town were closed. I waited 30 min, the engine started fine, and I began to drive to the next town. The engine shut down three more times en route. Each time I stopped on the side of the road, waited 10 min, and started the car again. I would only get about 5 miles, and it would shut down. (Keep in mind the engine temp, voltage, oil pressure are all normal)

Once I arrived at the next town, I got lucky and a mechanic was at his shop. He ran codes while at idle, and the same codes popped again. The car ran 45 min at idle in his shop and finally shut down. This mechanic had me start the car immediately, but it wouldn’t fire. He checked the plugs and they were getting fire while starting, so he eliminated coil/distributor as the problem. While cranking, he then shot some starter fluid into the aux fuel intake on the top of the manifold. It turned over and ran until he stopped spraying. At this point he suggested replacing the fuel filter and pump.

After doing so, the car ran all the way home without any problems; however, 10 miles before I got home the check engine light came on again.

So, here is my question. After finding your videos online, I think I should clean my MAF and EGR sensors since it’s an easy task. But if the check engine light stays on, or if the vehicle shuts down again, what do you suggest?

Also, assuming I have a fouled or faulty sensor, in your experience would that cause the engine to just shut down without a sputter or backfire?

I’m just puzzled. I hope the replacement of the filter/pump eliminates the shutdown problems. By the way, the old filter was FILTHY upon inspection. The mechanic blew through the discharge port, and out came black fluid and many particles. Is this likely because the fuel tank sat on empty for six months and my fresh tank of gas and Seafoam loosened up the gunk? Just weird since I went through three tanks of gas before the engine shut down the first time.

I would appreciate any insight you can offer. I’ve searched the Internet high and low for a similar problem that I’ve had, but I can’t find any correlation with the codes that popped and complete engine failure.
Thank you in advance for your insight, and I hope to hear from you soon.


(deleted your addy and phone number. I'm sure you don't want the whole world to know where you work/live. If you wanna post that in a private message, that is fine.)

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

P0402 MAZDA - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected
Possible causes
- Open or shorted CKP sensor circuit condition
- Poor CKP sensor electrical connection
- Check communication error between the ECM and TCM
- Failed CKP Sensor

I am fairly certain that a crank sensor problem won't cause an EGR code to show up.

P0725 MAZDA - Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
Possible causes
- Open or shorted CKP sensor circuit condition
- Poor CKP sensor electrical connection
- Check communication error between the ECM and TCM
- Failed CKP Sensor

This code will definitely cause a stall or no start condition. You need to see if the ECU is a getting an engine speed signal from the crank sensor when it doesn't want to start. If it doesn't, you need to check the integrity of the crank sensor circuit and to see if the crank sensor is producing a signal before changing any parts.

1998 Mazda 626 running ruff, check engine light on

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From plsmoothy on 1998 Mazda 626 running ruff, check engine light on

Hi guys. It's me again with yet another problem with my '98 Mazda 626, 4 cylinder 2.0 with 139,000 miles.

A couple of days ago I ran my fuel level down to the lowest point I have ever dared to. I seriously thought I was gonna stall out somewhere. Got to the gas station, filled her up and I was on my way. A while later I noticed that when I was idle at a light, the engine sounded like it was misfiring or something. It wasn't running rough, it would just kinda pause for an instant and then continue. It only happened when I was idle. As I continued driving it got worse. It finally reached a point where it got really bad and then the check engine light came on and the car started running really rough. Also, the exhaust smells different. It starts up just fine and it doesn't stall out ... it just runs rough.

Broke out my Haynes manual and did some troubleshooting. The spark is being delivered to all 4 pistons. Removed the electrical connector to fuel injector 1 and there was no change at all in the running condition. Removed the electrical connectors to fuel injectors 2,3 and 4 and the car practically stalled out. Applied auto stethoscope to fuel injector one and I could hear it ticking away. I removed the electrical connector to injector 1 while the stethoscope was applied and I could hear it come on and off. Tested the other 3 injectors and I could hear them come on and off as well. It seems like fuel injector 1 is working but it might be totally clogged up. Am I on the right track? If so, is that something I can repair myself?

As always, you're advice is greatly appreciated ... thanks!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

plsmoothy; Sounds like to me that you are on the right track. As I'm sure you are aware, water is heavier than gasoline, as is debris. When you let the tank get that low, it's very possible that you've sucked up something from the bottom of the tank that has been lying in wait. It's also entirely possible that it is completely coincidental.
You can try injector cleaner, but if it's plugged, will probably take more than just the stuff you can pour into the fuel tank. There are a couple of possibilities, if it is actually plugged. You can have an injector cleaning done or remove the injectors and have them cleaned. And, keep your fingers crossed. You may want to do some diagnosing, first, though. If the injector is plugged, that means no, or very little, fuel is getting to that cylinder. A gas analyzer would show low HC if that is the case. If fuel IS getting to the cylinder, you'll see high HC. Also, ohm check each injector. Just because it 'clicks' doesn't mean it's actually working.

Response From plsmoothy

Loren ... just got off the phone with a mechanic who told me that when injectors are as old as mine (139,000 miles) I should just replace them and not bother having them cleaned. Is there any truth to that? I started checking out prices on ebay and I've found a wide range of prices. How do you feel about rebuilt fuel injectors? Would it be unwise to buy inexpensive injectors? Thanks again.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

plsmoothy; We use a machine called "Motor Vac" injector cleaner. The vehicle's fuel supply is 'disabled' and the engine runs off of the machine. The chemical goes throughout the entire combustion system and cleans the fuel rails and injectors. It takes about 1.5 hrs and does an excellent job. I've personally seen many plugged injectors come to life during the process. We get a lot of customer feedback, almost always 2-3mpg improvement and better performance. A lot of them will bring in their other car for the same thing because they were so impressed with the results. We recommend doing this every 30-40,000 miles. So, to answer your question, no I wouldn't 'just' replace the injectors. Yet. The cleaning process should be done, regardless. If it works, great.
If it doesn't, it needed to be done, anyway. As far as reman. injectors, the only time I use them is if new ones aren't available. Personally, don't like reman. parts in most cases. If you do end up replacing them, I'd recommend buying new ones from the dealer, NAPA, or CarQuest. Not something you want to skimp on, because you only want to do it once.
Sorry, probably too much information.

Response From Guest

Loren ... thanks for the reply. A couple of follow up questions. Can I buy a gas analyzer or should I take it to a local shop? Also, when you say ohm check each sensor, do you mean check it with a voltmeter? I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to auto electrical.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Exhaust gas analyzers are very expensive pieces of equipment. Several thousand for a 'decent' one. Check for resistance readings with an ohmmeter.