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  • Dorman
    Dorman
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    LKQ
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    Spectra

Best Selling Genuine Lincoln Fuel Tanks

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, Spectra
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Lincoln Replacement Fuel Tank Parts

We stock Fuel Tank parts for most Lincoln models, including MKX, MKZ, Town Car.

Dorman
1996 Lincoln Mark VIII Fuel Tank Dorman

P311-0E8E4F5    576-132  New

F23B , E8SZ9002A

Qty:
$143.50
Dorman Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • Capacity: 22 Gal.
    • Fuel Tank Coating: Paint
    • Height: 9.75 In.
    • Length: 45 In.
    • Width: 27 In.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Lincoln Mark VIII
Spectra
1989 Lincoln Town Car Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-03DAA96    F17  New

KF17 , FT421 , E4AZ9002A , 1184 , FLF17 , RF17 , TF17 , 1250 , 576115

Qty:
$95.44
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 42-3/4 in. x 19-3/8 in. x 10-1/8 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8436: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Lincoln Town Car
Spectra
1994 Lincoln Continental Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-2A94B81    F22D  New

F4BZ9002B , 1452 , 1535 , 576131 , 1615 , KF22D , 1645 , FLF22D , RF22D , FT440

Qty:
$108.70
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 40 in. x 27-3/8 in. x 8 in. Lock Ring Kit Included 18.5 Gallons Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8455: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Lincoln Continental
Spectra
1992 Lincoln Mark VII Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-083075A    F23C  New

1372 , FLF23C , 576133 , FT443 , E8SZ9002A , RF23C

Qty:
$146.37
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 45 in. x 27 in. x 8-3/4 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8458: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Lincoln Mark VII
Spectra
1984 Lincoln Mark VII Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-17E0F87    F23F  New

FT445 , E4LY9002A , RF23F , FLF23F , 1322

Qty:
$146.37
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 45 in. x 27 in. x 8-3/4 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8460: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1984 - Lincoln Mark VII
Spectra
1972 Lincoln Continental Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-2C1DCBB    F27A  New

D1AZ9002A , 777 , FT457

Qty:
$156.03
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 44 in. x 17-1/2 in. x 10-1/2 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8472: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1972 - Lincoln Continental
Spectra
1973 Lincoln Continental Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-5D9F786    F27B  New

D2AZ9002B , FT458 , 779

Qty:
$156.03
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 44 in. x 17-1/2 in. x 10-1/2 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8473: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1973 - Lincoln Continental
Spectra
1974 Lincoln Continental Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-03329E8    F27C  New

FT459 , 883 , D4AZ9002A

Qty:
$156.03
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 44 in. x 17-1/2 in. x 10-1/2 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8474: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1974 - Lincoln Continental
Spectra
1979 Lincoln Continental Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-46A1209    F27D  New

FT460 , D7AZ9002C , 1079

Qty:
$156.03
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 44 in. x 17-1/2 in. x 10-1/2 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8475: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1979 - Lincoln Continental
Spectra
1994 Lincoln Town Car Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-1A5737C    F29  New

FT470 , RF29 , 1534 , KF29 , 1614 , F3AZ9002A , FLF29 , 1502 , F2VZ9002A , 576135

Qty:
$121.95
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • New Gas Tank
  • 40-3/4 in. x 17-3/4 in. x 9-1/4 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • SPECTRA_PROP8485: May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Lincoln Town Car

Latest Lincoln Repair and Fuel Tank Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

can't put gas in car

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on can't put gas in car

Friend has an 88 lincoln mark vii. suddenly when she tries to fill up the gas spurts back out - and guage always reads full. someone said line may be kinked. any ideas how to find out if that's the case?

Response From dave284

Did these things happened at the same time? Will it take any gas at all?...even if put in slowly....not being funny but sound like the tank is full,...does the gas needle move at all?.....To fix the guage the tank will have to dropped to replace the gas sending unit....the gas spurting back out ...cause of the air displacement....the vent is stopped up.Let me see what kind of info I can find.

Response From dave284

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/04/c9/ea/0900823d8004c9ea/repairInfoPages.htm
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/04/bb/f8/0900823d8004bbf8/repairInfoPages.htm look at these links.

Response From Guest

Dave? These are parts. So you think she needs one of them replaced? Any way to check for sure?

Response From dave284

The only other way to to be sure is to drop the tank and make visual inspection.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

There is a blockage in the vent somewhere. Look in the little pipe beside the fill tube to see if there is any restrictions. There are also vent valves on thew fuel tank. Can't exactly say where the problem will be, but a vent is restricted. Good luck.

Response From Guest

Thank you. She drives to and from the airport all the time - stewardess - so i'm assuming it happened at same time. took her 10 minutes to get 1 gallon in today.

Gas in the engine oil ??? a lot!

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From buckhunter on Gas in the engine oil ??? a lot!

83 lincoln mark 6, 5.0 engine, I keep this car in the garage, do not drive it much, a Sunday or show car, well I want out and for no real reason I checked the oil, boy am I glade I did, it was about 1 1/2 " over full, and smell of gas, I go under and drain it, it was so weak as if no oil at all, I have not put in oil or new filter as I want to fix it before I do that, trouble is I do not know what to fix, ??? it has a throttle body with two injectors mounted on top, I turn key on and off, look in with a light and do not see them leaking, and the fuel pump is in the tank so I do not have one in the block that could have rupture`ed, so I have no idea, If you can help Thanks so much, if not Thanks anyway for your time. Bill

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

How long has it been stored for this to happen since known ok?

Injectors kinda must be leaking down. I suppose that even without fuel pump pressure that plain expansion with daily heat changes where stored MIGHT be able to pressure the fuel tank just a tad and push fuel thru - a maybe.

Even 1983 used evap emmsion systems. You may have a plugged up canister or hoses to it. This may just self correct with a good run if running well with new oil and filter.

DON'T run on thinned oil as I'm sure you know - it's not capable of correct lubrication or worse - washes off any existing lubrication for the engine.

Idea: Perhaps store the car with slightly loosend gas cap if safe where it's stored. Put a reminder in your face on the steering wheel that it's left that way! All things perfect you shouldn't need to do that but dunno how long it sits and the overall conditions,

T

Response From buckhunter

Hi Mr G, when I was checking to see if the injecters was leaking after shut down, not running as I have not replaced the oil and new filter yet, but I turned the key on then off, looked in the throttle body to check the injectors for drip, seen none " BUT " did see a bit of fuel on top of the throttle body around the fuel pressure reglator, I will say wet to the touch, not a lot but wet, ??

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? The only way fuel could really get into the oil is thru that throttle body so there's an issue there. We are talking about an old car now with VERY limited use with long periods of storage but not completely "moth balled" as in drain it out for a 20 year sleep or something.

The the fuel from just the pump doesn't account for the volume you found so I'm blaming the pressure on expansion of fuel and air over it in the gas tank pushing by itself.

The gas tank vents to a canister that I think is nicely hidden under side and back of the RF headlights. That thingy takes the fumes (hopefully only fumes) from the gas tank and when engine is started returns the fumes then caught up in charcoal to the intake - somewhere at a metered rate so as not to cause it to run lousy so my guess is to the area near where this TBI injection is. You might not see that fuel at all and would have to inspect hoses to that canister for issues, blockages or something IF that was the source at all.

Just a maybe that injectors can get some pressure as well - so slow that it's just a couple drops under low pressure and if the car was a daily driver you might never notice anything. They really shouldn't allow anything past them but it's possible.

More: The air on top of fuel in tank is DENSE with fuel vapor. Enough to condense to a liquid again probably with temp changes. It amazes me just observing a 6.5 gal plastic gas can I have (not vented) how much it expands and contracts with temps. Goes from a scary bulge to sucked in! My own storage temps for a car right now are a limited range of 40F to short times of 85F give or take. That's still some considerable temp variation but hasn't been an issue with many cars I've stored over the years. Your temp changes might exceed what I observe just exacerbating the pressure and vacuum of expansion and contraction.

Thoughts: The gas cap itself has a lot of features for the pressure and vacuum control of the system. You understand as you drive and use fuel that the tank would squish from a vacuum if the cap was sealed too tight or if (dunno) intended to seal tight then the venting comes from all the way back up front at that canister which is a squarish/rectangular shaped thing. Never had a problem with one so zero for much more on the item from me.

So - IMO it's one or the other causing this: Injectors can leak with low pressure or evap system is allowing liquid up to the intake. I can't think of any other way short of vandalism that gas would get into the oil!

About 10 years before this car gas caps were vented right at the cap which is why I suggested for this exact situation a possible solution would be to "de-pressure" the tank by leaving cap loose.

It's also totally possible that after a good run this car won't do this again - I can only guess the conditions it's under even while stored,

T

My Little Chariot Failed! P0174 & P0171

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Blessedpilot on My Little Chariot Failed! P0174 & P0171

Hi! This is my first post here so be gentle!!!

I have a 1997 Lincoln Town Car that I tried to get inspected but it failed due to the "check eng light" being on . The codes I was given were P0174 (syst too lean bank 2) and P0171 (syst too lean bank 1).

The inspector reset the check eng light and all codes were erased. He said to drive it for 60 miles or so and see if the light comes back on. He said if it does, it might need a new fuel filter or it might need to have the fuel syst serviced. I've driven it about 40 mi so far and the check eng light has not illuminated. I even stopped my Autozone to see if any codes would show on their tester. None did.

My question is, if the light does not re-illuminate in another 20 or 30 miles, should I take it back up to them and tell them the light did not come back on and to reinspect it? Or, should I take it somewhere else (before the light comes back on) and not even mention that it failed before to see if it will pass this time? I guess maybe if I took it somewhere else and perhaps it showed up in the computer somehow that it failed somewhere else, I could tell them that I took care of the problem myself. Right?

Thanks from Texas!!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

In WA, as long as the readiness monitors have completed, and no codes stored, it should pass. WA will allow one readiness monitor to be incomplete, and the EVAP is usually the last one to complete. Not sure about your state.
And, yes, a plugged fuel filter can cause a lean condition; There are also, other reasons. If the CEL comes back on, you really should address the problem. Running too lean is not a good thing.

Response From way2old

See if you can get someone to test your fuel pressure. If pressure is low (plugged filter--weak pump) it can give those codes. Also the MAF could cause those codes. A vacuum leak that affects both sides can also be the cause. Good luck.

Response From Blessedpilot

Thanks for the suggestions. Where would be the best place to take it to test the fuel pressure? Just a local mechanic or can most oil change places do that sort of thing? Is there an easy way to do it myself?

Thanks again

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi!

Are you apt to do the work on this car at all? You can buy a tester at that AutoZone you went to if you want to test it yourself but are you up to the repair anyway if a fuel pump is the problem? Even for a filter?

I suggest having a local shop or tech check the pressure for you. Chances are the quick lube places won't do this service but no harm in asking.

More: Do you have a "grace" period to legally drive this car to even see if the service light will come back on? It might not and you may be all set for inspection shortly. I'd still plan on routine service like a new fuel filter and all the other maint items.

Here in Massachusetts inpections are done AFTER you register the car and pay a fortune in fees - THEN you can go try for a "sticker" within 7 days grace from purchase. Ok- if your car doesn't communicate with the "People's Republic of Mass" registry of motor vehicles that all is well with emissions (mod yrs 1996 and newer) then you have 30 days for a free retest. No waiver for safety items - technically you aren't to drive the car at all till fixed!

Here's the tester AutoZone shows if you wanted to check your own......

Actron / 0-100 PSI Fuel Pressure Tester Kit with Ford Fuel Line Adapter About this product: Part Number: CP7818 Weight: 1.0 lbs. Pricing: $39.99 Availability: Store: Normally stocked at your local store.


**********

Let us know what your are apt to fix yourself or not,

T

Response From Blessedpilot

Hi and thanks again for the info. I dont mind getting dirty and doing the work myself. However, I dont have very much automotive knowledge but am very willing to learn. I am pretty cheap and rather than paying some oil change place $79.99 or something ridiculous like that just to check my fuel pressure, I would much rather get a little dirty and pay $40 for a pressure tester and do it myself. If the pressure is low, I have know problem getting dirty and replacing the fuel filter myself. Then again, I dont know how to use the tester or even how to locate the fuel filter, pump, etc...

Also, I ran the car by a garage that they state "specializes in emission repairs" and he told me with those codes he would need to hook it up to their machine and see what exactly is going on in there. This fee: $125 + tax! OUCH! That doesnt fix the problem or anything!!! They can charge that just to "hook it up" to their machine! Wow, I am in the wrong profession! Sorry, I am pretty cheap and would rather do the work myself and use their "machine" as a last resort. I dont mind getting dirty at all. I would rather get dirty and stock up on new tools in the garage doing the work myself than pay that for "hooking it up" to that machine!

I wish I had more knowledge in these things but I've never had anyone show me how.

I once had a '76 chevy pickup though and was able to do the oil changes myself. I was very proud of being able to do that. I even replaced the starter on it and performed a tune up! But that was many years ago and on a much less computerized, less sophisticated machine!

As far as a grace period goes in TX, I dont think I am supposed to drive it with an out of date sticker. (I have driven the vehicle about 50 miles since inspection and the light still has not come back on!) It stinks that inspection places still charge you even if your vehicle fails. So I had to pay the $40 even though I got no sticker out of the deal. However, the receipt stated that if repairs are made and the vehicle is returned for reinspection w/in 15 days, that they would reinspect the car at no additional charge. Therefore, I am anxious to get the vehicle up there and reinspected w/in this 15 day period.

So, hypothetically speaking, if I buy the pressure tester and test the fuel press myself, (and pressure is normal), then can I safely assume that all is ok and take it back up for reinspection? Then, lets say I test it myself and pressure is low. What would be my next step? Replace fuel filter and retest? Still low, replace fuel pump? What about this MAF thing that was mentioned earlier? I know nothing about that thing.

Sorry its such a long post but anymore advice is greatly appreciated,
Blessedpilot

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Blessedpilot; You aren't Sully, are you? Anyway, if you've driven 50 miles without the CEL coming back on, your readiness monitors have surely completed by now. I'd have it retested before you spend any more money. If, for some reason they have not, they'll probably just tell you to drive some more. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace that fuel filter, regardless, if it's been on there a long time. The MAF sensor is very easy to remove and clean. Be sure your fuel tank is between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Too little fuel or too much fuel, it will take a long time for the EVAP monitor to complete. Good luck.

Response From Blessedpilot

Lol. Nope, no seaplane flights for me!

Thansk again for all the great advice. I have driven now for over 50 miles and the light still has not come back on. I actually went to Autozone today intent on purchasing a new fuel filter and the guy behind the desk kind of discouraged me a little bit. I told him the whole ordeal and he pretty much told me that when they hook that emission test machine up again that the codes will still register. I was kind of assuming that since the system was cleared that any codes would remain undetectable unless the system "tripped" again with fresh codes. Do yall know how that emission machine works? Do they put something in the tail pipe to get readings or are they just checking fault codes or both? I think I will go back up there tomorrow though and get that fuel filter. I am sure its way overdue for replacement and its only about $8.

So in yalls best estimates, If I replace the fuel filter and the light remains off, should I take it back up for reinspection feeling pretty confident that it will pass this time?

As far as the MAF sensor, is it hard to locate? How about cleaning? How should I go about that?

Thanks again,
Blessedpilot

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/1570255.jpgThe black, plastic looking thing-a-ma-bob is the MAF sensor. When you take it off, you'll see a diode looking thinga ma ging that may look a little fuzzy. Just clean it, gently, with carb cleaner or alchohol (don't use Maker's Mark) with a Q tip. Not sure about TX emissions, but WA will only plug into your OBD II connnector. Tail pipe emissions won't be checked. WA only checks for codes stored and CEL operation. This is '96 and newer, of course.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Same inspection here in MA. The car tells the machine it's ok for model years 96 and up w OBDII systems. They gave up testing by tailpipe unless there's something to see coming out. They change the rules by the hour so who knows for today? Too many cars flew off or damaged in testing alone by dyno.

If the CEL has remained OFF then it should be fine to retest by now! The car's puter will remember a slight glitch and if it can't self correct after a few tries it will light that light. It might say it "watching" something for a grace period in which case the scan will show "not ready" as it hasn't collected enough data. The state check by default will "reject" a vehicle IF the vehicle can't tell it that it's ok! It's legal to drive it for a time like that awaiting the fix. They use a black "R" (reject) sticker which means it's safe and under "grace" for a while - a RED "R" essentially means the car can't be used on public roads!

The inspection machine (I don't use those at all) are not there to tell you exactly what to fix - just that it isn't up to passing the test. It get's archived on the vehicle's VIN forever available thru CarFax what happened and when.

Go get the sticker NOW,

T

Response From Blessedpilot

Thanks so much for all the advice. I'm gonna replace that filter and try to clean that MAF a bit and give it another shot. I'll let yall know how it turns out.

Thanks again,
BlessedPilot

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If running well right now go get your free recheck now before doing anything more which might just cause another temporary code if engine struggles with empty new fuel filter (some may) or isn't pleased having that sensor even unplugged or cleaned right now if running well right now,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

blessedpilot/TEX :

Just know you can go broke buying tools for one time use and although this biz is costly to consumers you'd freak at the cost to just be able to do it! Mega thousands in tools equipment, - training, fees, permits, hazmat control and disposal, taxes - things that cost whether a customer comes by or not! Ya - there's decent $ if you work hard and treat folks well - you go home dirty, smell like an exhaust pipe, cuts, burns - keep going. Man - if you aren't a masochist it's not for you! Then you get the pissed off customers who think you are just out to get them! Arggh!

Ok: Go get your tester and go get your free retrial while the check/service engine light is off. Leave it off and ask to leave it alone if it somehow hasn't had enough time, , miles, or cycles of warm ups and cool downs. That may end the inspection thing or tell you that more is needed. Tester probably comes with detailed instructions for use - hope so.

Fuel filter suggested above: It may use "spring locked" things to release so you need a tool for that.

IMPORTANT! Anything to do with fuel and fuel under pressure in and around sparks and a hot engine has it's dangers of course. Use all common sense and ABSOLUTELY HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER RATED FOR FUEL/GREASE at the ready! I further suggest finding outdoor, level cement surface place to work when dealing with possible fuel spills like these can.

Ask away when in doubt. Several of us are here routinely or get help directly when called for,

T