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LKQ
2006 Hyundai Santa Fe Fuel Tank LKQ - Platinum Pro

P311-0EA4BF1    FTK010661  New

Qty:
$232.69
LKQ Fuel Tank
  • 44 x 24 1/2 x 10 1/8 Inches; W/ Pan In Tank; 17.1 Gal; [Includes Lock Ring Kit]
  • FUEL TANK
  • Platinum Pro
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Santa Fe
Spectra
2003 Hyundai Santa Fe Fuel Tank 6 Cyl 2.7L Spectra

P311-055BFE6    HY11A  New

FLHY11A , FT71 , KHY15A , TNKHY11A , 3115026350 , 576552 , 19759257 , HSF02 , 19759333

Qty:
$379.75
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; From Jan/15/2003
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Hyundai Santa Fe GAS FI V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2656
Spectra
2005 Hyundai Santa Fe Fuel Tank 6 Cyl 3.5L Spectra

P311-055BFE6    HY11A  New

FLHY11A , FT71 , KHY15A , TNKHY11A , 3115026350 , 576552 , 19759257 , HSF02 , 19759333

Qty:
$379.75
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Hyundai Santa Fe GAS FI V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3500
Spectra
2010 Hyundai Elantra Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-218CF65    HY12A  New

TNKHY12A , FT72 , 311502H500

Qty:
$566.29
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
2010 - Hyundai Elantra Sedan
Spectra
2008 Hyundai Tucson Fuel Tank 6 Cyl 2.7L Spectra

P311-1A4782B    HY15A  New

FT75 , TNKHY15A , 576744 , 311502E350 , KHY30A

Qty:
$659.71
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Hyundai Tucson V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2656
Spectra
2009 Hyundai Accent Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-1AC78EC    HY16A  New

311501E500 , FT76 , 311501E550 , 311501E510 , 311501G570 , TNKHY16A , 311501G500 , 576726 , FT1013

Qty:
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Hyundai Accent
Spectra
2006 Hyundai Tucson Fuel Tank 4 Cyl 2.0L Spectra

P311-31F0A6C    HY17A  New

576748 , 311502E300 , FT77 , TNKHY17A , KHY17A

Qty:
$591.08
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Hyundai Tucson L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1975
Spectra
2006 Hyundai Elantra Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-54F9085    HY22A  New

FT710 , 311502D501 , 311502D502

Qty:
$256.83
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Hyundai Elantra
Spectra
1995 Hyundai Scoupe Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-2EAF374    HY2B  New

3115024100 , FT713 , TNKHY2B , 58381FI

Qty:
$193.68
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; 27 1/4 in. x 22 1/2 in. x 7 1/2 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Hyundai Scoupe
Spectra
1994 Hyundai Sonata Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-4E1C159    HY3A  New

58383 , 3115033500 , TNKHY3A , 3115033400 , 58382 , FT714

Qty:
$174.72
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; 37 in. x 24 in. x 12 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Hyundai Sonata
Spectra
1997 Hyundai Accent Fuel Tank 4 Cyl 1.5L Spectra

P311-11E770B    HY4C  New

FT717 , 58975 , 3115022800 , 576242 , TNKHY4C , 3115022501C

Qty:
$178.77
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; 33-1/4 in. x 21-1/2 in. x 7-1/2 in. Lock Ring Kit Included From May/1997 To Jul/1998
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Hyundai Accent SOHC L 4 Cyl 1.5L - 1495
Spectra
1995 Hyundai Elantra Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-52295FC    HY5A  New

58685 , FT719 , TNKHY5A , 3115028150

Qty:
$186.99
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; 38 in. x 25 in. x 8-1/2 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Hyundai Elantra
Spectra
1996 Hyundai Sonata Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-0D66624    HY6A  New

FT720 , 3115034310 , TNKHY6A , 58839

Qty:
$222.57
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; 36 1/4 in. x 25 1/4 in. x 12 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Hyundai Sonata
Spectra
1997 Hyundai Elantra Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-1B811AB    HY7A  New

576219 , FT721 , 3115029800 , 58899 , TNKHY7A

Qty:
$182.87
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; 39 in. x 24-1/2 in. x 9-1/2 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Hyundai Elantra
Spectra
2000 Hyundai Elantra Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-020E7C3    HY7B  New

576099 , IHY7B , KHY7B , 3115029980 , 58976 , TNKHY7B , FT722

Qty:
$201.12
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; 39 in. x 24-1/2 in. x 9-1/2 in. Lock Ring Kit Included
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Hyundai Elantra
Spectra
2003 Hyundai Tiburon Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-296D69E    HY7C  New

KHY7C , TNKHY7C , 59138 , 576415 , 311502D500 , FT723

Qty:
$274.51
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; 39 in. x 24-1/2 in. x 9-1/2 in.
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Hyundai Tiburon
Spectra
2001 Hyundai Accent Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-213BF50    HY8A  New

FT724 , TNKHY8A , 59067 , KHY4E , 3115025700 , 576556 , 3115025500

Qty:
$210.20
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Hyundai Accent
Spectra
2003 Hyundai Accent Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-213BF50    HY8A  New

FT724 , TNKHY8A , 59067 , KHY4E , 3115025700 , 576556 , 3115025500

Qty:
$210.20
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; To Apr/14/2003
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Hyundai Accent
Spectra
2003 Hyundai Accent Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-05BC6D4    HY8B  New

3115025700 , TNKHY8B , FT725

Qty:
$217.17
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • ; 32 7/8 in. x 21 1/4 in. x 7 1/8 in. From Apr/14/2003
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Hyundai Accent
Spectra
2001 Hyundai Sonata Fuel Tank Spectra

P311-1525F3C    HY9A  New

TNKHY9A , HSO01 , 59036 , 3115038100 , KHY9A , 3115038600 , 19759036 , FT726 , 576553

Qty:
$280.05
Spectra Fuel Tank
  • Fuel Tank
  • Product Attributes:
    • California_Prop 65 Message:
      • May Cause Cancer Or Reproductive Harm
      • Y
  • Innovative engineering, manufacturing technology and quality control ensure that Spectra Premium fuel tanks meet or exceed the performance of the original equipment they replace.
Brand: Spectra
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Hyundai Sonata

Latest Hyundai Repair and Fuel Tank Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

fuel fill trouble Hyundai sonata

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From Guest on fuel fill trouble Hyundai sonata

I'm having trouble with a late model hyundai sonata ( I believe 01 or 02) When filling the fuel tank from near empty, the pump will occasionally stop after pumping a gallon or two, as if the tank was already full. The MIL occasionally comes on, but i haven't had an opportunity to check the code. I don't even know if the DTC is related. Just wondering if anyone has experienced a similar problem. I know the possible causes, but any information regarding the most likely causes would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Still get the code read but doubt it's related to this exactly??

Just curious - from where it shuts off early will it finish normally?

BTW but shouldn't be the up front issue - It's best to NOT let fuel get too low as the fuel actually helps keep fuel pumps running cooler and better for them,

T

Response From cpaine0106

The tank will not fill up normally after the pump clicks off, it continues to click off on repeated attempts, and sliding the nozzle partially out does not remedy the situation either. The car belongs to a friend of mine, so i haven't actually witnessed whether the MIL turns on at the same as the problem occurs (JIC that question pops up). And thank you for pointing out that a full tank is good for the pump; I know this, but i didn't think to advise her.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thoughts and a maybe on this:

Routinely running low probably is hard on the evaporative emission system and the code may show that. The vapors need to be dealt with by the car itself and there are more of them vs liquid fuel when low - duh. There may be a connection there that will lead to the solution??

T

Response From cpaine0106 Top Rated Answer

Thank you for your input Mr. Greenleaf. It is greatly appreciated. I'm sure if that's the cause an EVAP code is going to be hiding somewhere in the history, at least i hope so. (I live in the NE part of the country with no garage at home, so i don't like to spend too much time outside searching blindly for problems this time of year) I'm going to pull the code before I take any further action. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it points me to the solution. Thanks again

Engine problems with Hyundai diesel 1.5 CRDi

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Brajko007 on Engine problems with Hyundai diesel 1.5 CRDi

2007
Hyundai
Getz
1.5 diesel, 65 kW
CRDi
135 000 km

Dear all I have some odd problems with my car so I would need your friendly advice what to do.

My car has problems when started and driven in cold weather.
Car starts normally but when driven looses power (gas) dies on me, when I stop on a stop light and Im trying to start when moving my foot from clutch car dies immediately because rpms drop from 1000 rpms to 500 rpms in a second and car dies. This problem occurs periodically it has days when it is driven all works fine but it has days in the morning or when it is cold (bellow zero temps.) that has this problem. :(

In the past few weeks we changed: oil, oil filter, fuel filter, one bad fuel hose that goes from fuel filter to the engine, we cleaned our fuel tank, conducted testings via computer diagnostics it does not shows any errors, we checked fuel pressure valve and the valve works ok, we changed 2 bad starting heater electrodes (bosch), battery is ok.

And after all this problem occurs periodically, car for a few days works fine but then the problems starts and the car has these described problems for the next few days. :(

Anyone with constructive advice please advise...

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Just to let you know this forum is the based in the United States and that vehicle is not sold here. Advice may be limited.

2004 Hyundai Sonata...Stumbles And Stalls...Need Help!!!!

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From fdegree on 2004 Hyundai Sonata...Stumbles And Stalls...Need Help!!!!

2004 Hyundai Sonata - 4 cyl. - Automatic Transmission


I am now completely puzzled. This problem started over a month ago – spark knocking, lurching, minimal response to accelerator positioning, occasionally stalls…almost like it is running out of gas. But, it would not do this all the time…sometimes it would run for a few days just fine, then out of nowhere, it would start giving me this problem.

At first I thought it was water in the gas since the very first time it happened was 20 minutes after filling the tank. So, I tried a gas additive to get rid of any potential water in the fuel tank over the course of 3 tank fills…didn’t help.

Found out I needed a special adaptor just to check fuel pressure. Since I didn't have one, I decided to just replace the fuel pump and spark plugs…didn’t help.

Started to notice it was happening more frequently (now daily), but always after about 20 – 30 minutes of driving. Let it sit and cool down for a while, it would be fine until it heated up again. The engine temperature never overheated…stayed around 205 – 210 degrees.

During the course of all this we found codes for the cam sensor, cylinder 1 misfire, cylinder 4 misfire, random misfires (I don't remember the actual code numbers now). Then, one night, I cleared all of the codes and restarted the engine. Revved it up until it started acting-up again, so I could recheck the codes…did this 3 times. Each of the 3 times it only returned a cam sensor code, nothing else. So, I replaced the cam sensor (which was only 8 months old…it was replaced back in November)…didn’t help

Most recently, the engine "stumbled" and eventually stalled, after about 20 minutes of driving. Checked the codes, and it returned only 2 codes:
P0421 - Warm up catalyst below threshold bank 1
P0340 – Cam position sensor A bank 1 ckt malfunction

Out all of the times it has been acting-up and returning codes, this is the very first time we have seen the catalyst code. Although, the Cam sensor code seems to appear every time.

Checked ignition coil and plug wire resistance...nothing odd with them.

To summarize:
Runs rough and stalls after 20 – 30 minutes of driving
Tried gas additive to get rid of water
Replaced fuel pump and spark plugs
Replaced cam sensor
Nothing has solved the problem

Any suggestions…

Response From Double J



Jim

Response From fdegree Top Rated Answer

It appears you think it has something to do with the cam sensor.

The sensor itself is brand new, and the one that was in prior to changing it was only 6 months old. So, I doubt it is the sensor itself.

The plug (connector) has beed triple checked for tightness. So, I don't think that is the problem either.

If the problem is in the cam sensor circuit, how do I check that to make sure?
If the problem is in the PCM, how do I check that to make sure?
Why would it run for 30 minutes before "stumbling" and stalling?

Response From dave284

If the cam sensor is not at fault, then most likely it is the pcm...but keep in mind some after market parts won't work with these vehicles.Checking the pcm can be a diy job, but it needs to done with a special diagnosing tool.

2002 Hyundai Accent won't start - Fuel pump

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From sancho on 2002 Hyundai Accent won't start - Fuel pump

Hi,

I apologise in advance for the wall of text but I want to make sure I put all the information here.

I think it's fair to say I've been having a fairly bad run of luck with my car and yesterday it finally happened, it died in a parking garage and I had to get it towed.

I've been having the problem for a while that my car will randomly decide not to start (it always cranks, but fails to ignite). It's always been completely random and will always start after a couple of minutes. The first time this ever happened was about 10 months ago, and it didn't happen again for a few months. The problem became more and more frequent and I took it to the mechanic.

Initially they said it was the oxygen sensor (my car was overfuelling pretty badly), so this was replaced. Then it happened again and I was told it was a faulty crank angle sensor.

So I had just had that replaced on Monday when yesterday my car wouldn't start, but the problem was slightly different in that it actually did start for a about a second and then immediately stalled. But I sat there for 4 hours while waiting for a specialist towing company that could remove my car from the low ceiling multi-storey parking garage and could not get it to start without immediately stalling.

Initially I had a roadside assistance mechanic looking at my car. He checked the spark and fuel injectors and eventually found that the fuel pump wasn't giving a reading.

So I eventually had my car towed to a garage where they told me that not only is the fuel pump dead, but that there's a problem with the wiring that will cause any future fuel pump to fail. So I have to get the entire fuel pump module replaced which they quote me $950 for since apparently it's a very expensive part. I've called around and gotten similar quotes.

I'm at the end of my tether and I've thrown so much money at this car (more than the car is worth at this point). I just wanted to get a second opinion on this before I commit to potentially throwing more money down the drain.

The other thing to note is that it seems my car's purge valve is stuck open. It took me a while to realise this was actually what was going on because I'd find that my car was idling very rough and stalling at low revs. My "cheap" fix was disconnecting the hose so that the purge valve is just sucking air. Could this be connected in any way or is it a completely separate problem?

My check engine light has never stayed on to indicate anything has ever been wrong with my car.

I really regret buying this car but I absolutely need it where I live just for basic day to day living. I'm just clueless at this point about what to do and whether I'm throwing money down the drain.

Thanks in advance.

Response From Discretesignals

The problem is is that we are not there to see or test systems on your vehicle. Very possible a fuel pump could cause your symptoms, but our advice is mostly based on the diagnostic information you give us, which there really isn't much of.

An o2 sensor usually doesn't cause a no start. What lead them to the fuel pump as the culprit? Did they have no fuel pressure, but had power and a ground to the pump? What is the problem with the wiring? Not much information to go on even in your wall of text.

Your check engine light will eventually come on for an Evap issue because of the purge valve issue. You don't want the purge valve sucking air because that is a vacuum leak that will make the engine run lean. If the valve is stuck open, it should be replaced. They are not that expensive or that hard to replace.

Response From sancho

Yes I wish I had a bit more information, unfortunately this is all I know at this point, next time I'll get to speak to someone is on Monday as this place is closed on weekends.

Apparently they were getting an error code for the o2 sensor, despite no CEL, and the car was running very rich before they replaced it. They just replaced it and said hopefully that'll sort out the starting problem.

With the fuel pump, all I know so far is that they found the fuel pump was shorting out, hinting that the age of the brittle wiring could be at fault. As for specifically how they tested the fuel pump I'm not sure. They just said that it was dead and that they could replace the pump but any new pump would also end up the same way due to whatever was causing the original pump to short.

They said that the only way to be sure that the shorting problem would be fixed would be to replace the entire fuel pump module.

Wish I had more info at this point but yeah.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Watching as I do. You need better help.
This "SHOTGUN FISHING IN A BARELL" approach is for amateurs not people you pay.
Read your own writing. Same O2 sensor? Well guess that wasn't it but the result of what was. Code would spit up if rich for another reason.
Now talking $950 with this approach! It's your $$ sport. True - wiring connections or failures are on the list so find where the failure is.


Your call,
T

Response From sancho

Okay just to update. I went looking for better help and I got a confirmation that the fuel pump is toast and they replaced the whole assembly for a lot less thank goodness. My car seems to be running okay now, and I'm coming to the conclusion that the purge valve problem was somehow related to the fuel pump issues.

They tested the purge valve and apparently it's working fine, no need for a replacement. This seemed really strange to me considering it had been stuck open for so long. But the hose is reconnected and so far, none of the problems I had before.

Apparently my fuel filter was totally full of junk even though I replaced it myself not too long ago. They recommended running a higher octane fuel (I've been on the cheap stuff).

The only problem now is that some new rattling has started up ever since. When the revs hit a certain point between 1000 and 2000 RPM, there's a loud rattling/ buzzing coming from the engine.

Have you got any idea where this could be coming from?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote you ">>They recommended running a higher octane fuel"
Higher octane is an anti-knock rating not a quality of the fuel rating so you know. It simply cost more to make than the lower octane this car should call for. It's best benefit IMO is it sells less so you are less apt to buy fuel when the "gas station" is getting fuel not needing the higher octane so it's not being mixed up with a rush of incoming fuel while you are pumping it. In short - don't buy fuel when the place is getting fuel as there's always junk in their tanks that is unfiltered when you buy it.
It's still not that common to be that fast to plug fuel filter or show evidence. Before it gets there, there's a pick up screen for the pump that now could be clogged despite a new fuel pump that seems like it was found at fault.
IDK - guess I might change out fuel filter again this time pour out from inlet end into clean glass and see what you are dealing with. This now IMO is possibly bad luck, not really anyone's direct fault and need to choose an approach.
If fuel pump now can't pick up thru a screen enough it will burn up a good one as they aren't meant to run dry and require fuel to keep them cool as well.
Seems you found better help and had some bad luck. Perhaps go back and pick a plan with them as I kinda think you are dealing with some debris in fuel,
T

Response From sancho

Yeah they seemed to be suggesting that the low octane fuel I was using could've been the ultimate cause.
That's great advice, thank you, I never even thought about the implications of the station getting fuel.
I'll give the fuel filter another check. Is there an easy to depressurize the fuel lines first? Last time I did it, I ended up spilling a bit on the back seat.
Do you think the vibrations could be a sign of the fuel system struggling?

Response From nickwarner

Yeah they seemed to be suggesting that the low octane fuel I was using could've been the ultimate cause.
That's great advice, thank you, I never even thought about the implications of the station getting fuel.
I'll give the fuel filter another check. Is there an easy to depressurize the fuel lines first? Last time I did it, I ended up spilling a bit on the back seat.
Do you think the vibrations could be a sign of the fuel system struggling?

Hyundai cars are not racing machines that need premium gas. In the US they run 87 octane from factory. Seems from your post that you have higher grades there than we do here.

Why are you getting gas spilled in your interior from changing a fuel filter that is under your car?

When a fueler truck is dropping fuel into a gas station's holding tank, it will stir up any crap that may be in the tank or may be coming from the tank of the truck. Were the tank to settle for a few hours the junk sinks to the bottom and no issues. But it is possible that if you were pumping fuel into your car at the time the crap in the store's tanks were disturbed some junk got through.

I even had a similar issue a month back on my own house. I use diesel in my furnace and had pumped 100 gallons into the tank. Furnace was running at the time, since it was the end of the year in Wisconsin and thus cold. The next day I woke up cold as hell. My furnace wouldn't work. The fuel line was plugged up with crap either agitated from my tank, from the truck tank or both . Had to unhook my line and blow compressed air back to the tank to restore flow to the furnace.

Car needs to not suck junk into itself the same as my house furnace does.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Depressurize fuel: Could w cold engine just purge at where you would check fuel pressure or loosen fuel filter perhaps out of harm's way.
________________
Again with the fuel thing: Without ethanol fuel would separate junk and water to the bottom about exactly like ordinary say Italian Salad Dressing does, the kind you would shake up first you see in those the oil in on the top, vinegars + whatever at the bottom being mostly water which is heavier and doesn't stay mixed.
Prior to use of Ethanol (worked a few gas stations) you put a paste on a long stick and checked how much junk/water was at the bottom and the paste turned a color to show how much. It could take a few inches then you called and that was pumped out. The companies were not adding water or junk it's just condensation and junk as fuel handling isn't a food truck and places
All attempts at places I worked tried to have more fuel delivered at night as it was handy and didn't get in the way for them or customers. In short it had time for junk to go back to the bottom lower than where it was being pumped from which was always the same spot higher than the bottom so is your car.
With about any alcohol the water is suspended longer or stays suspended with the junk so filtering it from the fuel stations about ceased as it would be clogging up constantly with mega thousands of gallons being run thru so leave it to the vehicles to deal with. Not nice IMO just a matter reality and practicality.
More: A tiny bit a water from condensation (same like you windshield is wet sometimes in the morning) is in the fuel tanks along the way is mixed in alcohols and of little harm unless way too much. The debris who knows what that is?
So, even with the flaw it's still rare and usually unintentional. Just avoid getting fuel when the place is if you know it. Could have been done a few minutes before you got there and you wouldn't know too.
The places that did use water separating filters where I am seen at the pumps Sunoco by name fuel would slow down or almost stop and an attendant would change the filter right then. Those days are gone and it's too bad.
The quality thing: Google it and it's still hard to understand. Octane is now a rating for how much pressure/heat fuel under compression can take before it ignites without spark or also called knock. The higher the # the less likely to pre ignite. It takes a higher % of the refined crude oil to make higher octane rated fuel so it cost more not because it's better for your car unless it's specified for you specific car. Said if only the price it doesn't sell as fast so deliveries don't fill that tank every time so your chances are better.
What a game. Hey - I live it too, we all do. It's not in anyone's best interest for the problems to happen.
Where I live each pump get checked for exact measure and a dated seal put on that pump. When I was working gas places the person used a clear gallon marked glass container which would have show debris and shut the place down if seen + never was.
Said, it's, VERY rare even now the way it is but totally possible. It may NOT be where you got fuel but from your own car or the prior failed fuel pump too!
What to do? I'm done with this now but on my own always dump old/used fuel filter out into a glass container just because I want to know what comes out that it caught. If anything at all would change it a couple times quickly till clear and forget it but it hasn't happened.
Cleaning of a system. Depends. If a new tank was cheap and easy I'd do that, check or replace a fuel pump and what got by a filter was just fine junk would probably clear out on it's own quickly if this was mine to fix. It has been with cars left for years and people bought them to bring back to life again always regretting that move.
If you could peg it the place you get fuel that others had the same problem they would pay for all of it.
You probably could use some help to know for sure and get out of this the proper way for situation at hand,


T

Response From sancho Top Rated Answer

Thanks Tom, that is really some great information and I had no idea about that potential problem. It makes perfect sense, it just never even crossed my mind. And funnily enough, the last time I filled up my car before it died on me, I actually recall seeing a fuel truck sat there. I'm wondering if that put my already failing fuel pump over the edge.

With the octanes, the only added bonus I can see is the 95 and 98 octane at my local station advertise they've got some additive which helps to clean the tank but I have no idea how that would actually help, it sounds a bit gimmicky.

I'm going to take out the fuel filter tomorrow and have a look, I'll let you know what I find.

The vibration it turns out, was actually caused by some extension to the air intake box that had been disconnected from its clip for some reason, so the loud rattle is gone now.

What I have noticed however is a loud clicking sound coming from the fuel pump/ tank. This is a new sound and it's worrying me. I took a recording of it because there's no way to accurately describe it. This is me starting my car, the cover to the fuel pump is off and the mic is right next to it. So you can hear the fuel pump whirring loudly and then a lot of tapping and clicking. Here's the link to the recording:

https://soundcloud.com/statebeats/fuel-pump-start

I honestly know very little about fuel pumps but it doesn't sound like something I should be hearing.

EDIT - I spoke to the mechanics again and voiced my concerns about the potential debris in the fuel tank and not wanting to take a risk with the new fuel pump but they assured me it wasn't bad enough for them to warrant cleaning/ replacing the tank otherwise they would have done it, and that I have nothing to worry about.

Sadly this doesn't really reduce my fuel pump anxiety right now haha.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I hear you with asking the station itself about it. No doubt instructed to shut up, say it's all check and fine if asked.
I wasn't at one now eons ago. So small place that if we were getting fuel just told the few customers - knew most all by name to come back later and WHY!
That was before Ethanol just tanks were huge of course, metal then (not now I hope) and under ground water at that place! Meant if empty they could try to float up or if tank which did finally rust thru leak ground water in!
The oil company owned the tanks the place was privately owned separately.
Fuel was not filtered then at that place. So, one day saw when finishing filling up a car the area near the flap early for unleaded fuel days showed something funny with the last bit.
Was clearly plain water much easier to deal with but no hesitation stopped selling fuel.
Low volume place and one newer BMW no less had an issue and got taken care of by the oil company out of our hands. Any others just some water removing additive worked and new tanks were installed in the ground now a state mandate that at "X" many years all must go no matter what.
Ages ago, unique situation and solved at once. No problem not selling fuel till fixed which was great as I was there to be a mechanic not a gas jockey - days when self serve didn't exist at all.
Back - do the "premium" grades have extra additive? I tried to find out and came up with nothing informative. Fuels were colored to identify them that's all I knew - so long ago doesn't matter.
Go ahead and try to find out from a big oil company - you'll get nowhere post the news if you do please post back,


Tom

Response From sancho

Okay so I checked the fuel filter, the fuel came out pretty clean, just some trace amounts of black sediment that settled to the bottom.

Then something happened. I filled my car up to the top, and sure enough a few minutes later it stalled on me. And at idle, the revs were dropping very low, close to stall.

This is what was happening way back when I hadn't had the car for too long. It started out with the car stalling and idling erratically after filling up with fuel. Then it advanced to stalling and idling erratically at other times too. This was eventually "fixed" just by me removing the hose from the purge valve.

So there's definitely a pattern here. It seems that the purge valve opens and sucks in fuel (or excessive vapors?) and this floods the engine. Before my fuel pump died, it got to the stage where the valve was open continually and this made it almost undriveable unless the hose was disconnected. I figured it was the purge valve that was faulty but it's not.

Response From Discretesignals

If the filter was full of trash, that would probably mean your tank is full of it too. If there are contaminates floating around in the bottom of the tank, your pump won't last long. Most of the vehicles that come in our shop for fuel pump changes get the tanks removed and cleaned out. Simple soap and water can be used to clean the tank out. #1 failure of replacement fuel pumps is trash in the tank taking them out. The strainer on the end of the pump doesn't really filter out the smaller stuff.

if the noise wasn't there till after they replaced the pump, you should take it back to them to see if they may have missed something or your pump is defective.

The owners manual tells you what octane you should be running in it. Most vehicles are designed to run on 87.

Car sputtering on start

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Question From lttldude9 on Car sputtering on start

Hello,
Thanks for taking time to help me out, I really appreciate your generosity. I have a manual 2001 Hyundai Accent, and when I haven't driven my car for about 12+ hours, and I start it, the car turns on and the engine starts. When I apply the gas pedal the car sputters, or it doesn't even go (almost feels like when you let the clutch up without giving it any gas, the car kind of jumps forward a bit ). When it's not sputtering, it stays in idol even as I push down the gas pedal. This will go on for a couple minutes, and every so often the car will lurch forward as if it's getting gas, but this is only brief and then it goes back to idol/sputtering. After a few minutes of this sputtering, giving it gas, and sometimes having the car turn off completely(stall out), the car will start getting more gas and picking up speed. Once the car starts running, its fine, and drives with no issues. I can even stop and turn off the car, come back an hour later, and it starts perfectly. It's only when it hasn't ran for a 12+ hours. What could be the issue? Any help is greatly appreciated thanks.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Fuel or ignition; hard to say without a first hand look see or performing tests; it’s not likely engine management (electronic) due to you not mentioning a check engine light; but that’s also a pretty wide open statement.

Fuel wise I’m thinking that there might be an internal leak allowing the fuel lines to siphon back to the fuel tank.
On a properly functioning system, a check valve that is incorporated in the fuel pump, holds a solid column of fuel between the fuel pump and fuel injectors. This will give the fuel system almost instant pressure when the engine is restarted. If this check valve is leaking internally, fuel will slowly siphon back into the tank. This now means that the fuel pump must fill the empty lines, purge all the air out via the injectors and then it can build pressure. During this filling, purging and pressurizing; the engine may start on the dribbles of fuel coming from the injectors; but not enough fuel to produce sufficient power to accelerate.
A fuel pressure gage would need to be attached and pressures tested before a 12 hour sit. When the engine is first turned off the running pressure should hold for at least 10-20 minutes. The pressure will eventually dissipate to where this check valve will contain the fuel in the system. On the restart, after its 12 hour sit; the fuel pressure should be back up to full pressure before the end of cranking to start.

Ignition wise, you may have a run down, worn out secondary system. As in burnt out spark plugs, high resistant ignition wires (spark plug wires) or one of the two coils is beginning to fail electrically or it insulation has failed allowing spark to ground rather then to the spark plugs. Why only after sitting for an extended time frame; a cold dried out (all fuel in cylinders has evaporated) engine requires much more voltage to jump the spark plug gap.
For the cost of plugs & wires; just replace them and see if things improve. A simple way of checking coil and or spark plug wire insulation is with a household spray cleaner bottle, filled with a salt water solution. Start the engine and lightly mist the ignition system with this salt water. You may hear or see spark jumping from any of the components; the engine may even stall if the insulation is bad enough.

As for the electronics there still might be an issue there, with one or more sensors; one that is still functioning within its parameters as to not trigger a check engine light; but is no longer accurate.
For example, an engine coolant temperature sensor may not be signaling an accurate signal to the computer; telling the computer that the engine is still warm, when in fact the engine is stone cold. To diagnose this; the use of a scanner to read computer’s interruption of the sensor’s input and a digital multi-meter to perform pin test on the sensors and compare finds to specifications.
Sorry not always a black or white answer to drivability issues.

Dan.

Response From lttldude9

Thanks for the feedback. I just replaced the fuel filter and nothing changed. Also I got the check engine light trouble code: P1128 which is Manufacturer Central fuel airmetering valve. Please note this trouble code has been on since I purchased the car (2 years ago), and this has only been a real problem for the past few months, so it may be unrelated. Next I am going to get the fuel pressure and decide if I need to replace the pump. Any advice?

Response From DanD


P1128 Sets when the ECM has seen long-term fuel trim at 10-15% lean for a period of 30 seconds or more. This is also a 2 drive cycle code; meaning the ECM has to see this on two consecutive drives. A drive cycle is the engine is started, engine up to temperature, driven X number of minutes, above X number miles per-hour and then stopped and engine turned off.
Causes for setting the code; anything that will make the computer think the engine is running to lean for to long, even after the computer has tried to compensate by adding more fuel.
Things like vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks in front of the O2 sensor, defective O2, dirty injector(s), low fuel pressure, misfires or the computer itself.
Vacuum leaks can be anything from a (fairly large) vacuum line cracked or off, intake manifold or its gasket, EVAP purge solenoid leaking.
Exhaust leak; between the firing of the cylinders a small vacuum is created in the exhaust system. If there is a hole in the exhaust, air will be sucked into the exhaust; the O2 sensor will react to this un-burnt oxygen and send out a lean signal to the ECM.
There more things but I could go on and on and not even touch on the cause of your car’s issue.
When you have the fuel pressure tested; it may test ok at approx 50psi; if the engine has not sat for the 12 hours; you’ll need the gauge attached during one of the car’s little fits.

Dan.