Shop Lincoln Fuel Injectors

dpartain; The ABS lamp could be on due to low brake fluid level. However, since you have a check engine lamp illuminating also, I'm going to surmise that it may be a wheel speed sensor problem. Once the CEL illuminates, it will store a trouble code which can be retrieved with a scan tool to head you in the correct direction. You mentioned that they 'messed with the idle speed'. This should not have been done. The idle speed is controlled by the computer. If the 'hard stop' was manually adjusted to increase the idle speed, that will 'throw off' the TPS (throttle position sensor) and cause more problems, which include transmission shifting. Have the PCM and ABS systems scanned for trouble codes. You can post the codes here before you 'spend' any money.

First off I want to say thanks for even taking your time to read my "blog/problem"... And so quickly to a response. Wow! It's nice to get feedback/helpful hints w/o paying an arm and a leg! Okay, so like I mentioned I am light years behind the average person when it comes to knowing about any aspect of car/trucks/suv's/mtv's etc... So your suggesting that I take it to a local Auto Zone/Advanced Auto Parts to get the trouble codes? Also, how should I go about finding out why my ABS is on/off? Tell "Jiffy Lube/Goodyear" to top the brake fluid level when I get my oil changed? And you mentioned that it could be a speed sensor problem? Will that have anything to do with fuses? I'm sorry, I should know a little bit more about these things but somehow I have seemed to manage/get lucky until now.

Before they messed with the idle, my car idled around 1000. So they lowered it. This work was done back in July 2009. You see, we initially had that kicking/puttering problem and took it back to Monroe a few times but they said that there was nothing wrong with the car and that it's just the "normal wear and tear" that happens to a car after 9 years. So a couple months passed and out of the blue it stopped kicking/puttering. And now its back... And not only that but for some reason it doesn't always start the first go around. Its weird because like 96% of the time it will start first go around (1st time its started for the day) and then once its been started/turned off a couple of times, it takes up to 3 tries from then on out for the rest of the day. I don't know if that made any sense to you but like lets say I for some reason I make 7 stops and each time I turned off the car. It would probably start the first time for 2 of the stops. But for the last 5 it would take multiple turn overs. I've been told its the starter, the transmission, some kind of leak in an air valve???. All of which were dealerships and car shops assuming trying to squeeze me for every penny and then some because I am car illiterate.

Lastly, I get a horrible smell every now and then when I'm stopped at a light. I suspect its my brakes but then again who am I to suspect anything. Could this be its just low on brake fluid as well? I mean it really gets going pretty good and seems to fog up the car until I let the windows down for a min until the light turns green.

Thanks for your time!

Dustin

dpartain; Yes, have the codes retrieved and post them for us to see. It isn't ethical to 'bad mouth' other business', but Jiffy Lube/Goodyear are oil change/tire shops. Some have tried to 'expand' into other areas, but in my area, with not much success. I'm sure they 'mean' well. Do not feel bad about not knowing automotive technologies. Autos have changed. Back in the 60s and 70s, anyone with anything more than a brain could work on these things. It is no different than any other profession. There are a lot of things that I have not a clue of how it works. So, we're even. LOL. IMHO, there's no such thing as 'normal wear and tear'. If it doesn't work, there's a reason why. Yes, something may be worn out, but it's 'fixable'. I would like to see fuel pressure tests; Cold, KOEO, KOER for the starting problems.
From your post, I'm assuming that you don't want to do any testing yourself. Find a shop that you feel you can trust. Talk with friends, relatives, enemies, BBB.
>>Lastly, I get a horrible smell every now and then when I'm stopped at a light. I suspect its my brakes but then again who am I to suspect anything. Could this be its just low on brake fluid as well? I mean it really gets going pretty good and seems to fog up the car until I let the windows down for a min until the light turns green.<<
This could be from a vacuum leak. The heater controls are controlled by vacuum operated dashpots. If the engine isn't running properly, or one of the dashpots are faulty, this could be causing the problem. Or, a leaking heater core.
Anti-freeze has a sweet smell. Could be what you are smelling?

Alright, so I have been all over Atlanta today. I visited (2) AutoZones because the code I received had to do something with spark plugs... I had to go to different AutoZones because I was a little weary as to believe them being that I just got my spark plugs change a couple of months ago. And then the dude basically told me to smell the roses and that it didn't necessarily have to do with the spark plugs.

Below is pretty much word for word the codes/printout they gave me:

TROUBLESHOOTING P0308
OEM Brand: DOMESTIC

Definition
Cylinder misfire detected-cylinder number 8
Explanation
The powertrain control module monitors the crankshaft speed and has detected a misfire condition
Probable Cause
Ignition system fault-spark plug(s), ignition wires, coil
Vacuum leak
Injector Fault
High or low fuel pressure

Definition
Cylinder misfire detected-cylinder number 5
Explanation
The powertrain control module monitors the crankshaft speed and has detected a misfire condition
Probable Cause
Ignition system fault-spark plug(s), ignition wires, coil
Vacuum leak
Injector Fault
High or low fuel pressure

They said they couldn't check the ABS and I wasn't done getting consumer reviews on car shops/mechanics.

Those engines are really bad about burning holes in the coil boots where they go down in the head. #8 is on the drivers side rear plug. Rempve the coil and boot and look closely at the boot to see if there is any sign of arcing through the boot. Coils go for about 50$ and boots are about 7 at Autozone. The ABS light needs to be read by a higher quality scan tool than AZ uses. Most places will charge about 1/2 hour diagnostic charge to read the codes.

Thought you said you were old and slow Loren.

W2O; I saw you typing. Had to really hurry.

OK, the 2000 Lincoln LS V8 belonging to a coworker is throwing a p0305 code, but only when there's a bunch of moisture around (car washes, really rainy days). Any thoughts?

P0305 is misfire, cylinder #5. If it only misfires in damp conditions, I'd suspect secondary. (forward most cylinder, left bank). This is COP type. Common for the COP boots to form a carbon track in the inside. Should always replace them when replacing plugs. Also, use dielectric grease on the inside of the boot when installing.

The P0305 and P0308 are both misfire codes for cylinders #5 & #8. Those two cylinders are the front and rear on the left bank. A very common cause of misfires on these 'coil over plug' engines is either the coil or the insulator. The top picture shows the insulator which attaches the coil to the spark plug. These will get a carbon track on the inside which you have to look very closely to see, if at all. It's also possible that the porcelain on the spark plugs were cracked during installation? A quick, easy test, would be to put #5 coil on #6 cylinder, and #8 coil on #7 cylinder, clear codes, and see if the misfires change cylinders. (examine the spark plugs and insulators on 5 and 8 while you have the coils off). There are other causes of misfires, as well, but let's start with the most common ones, first. Dirty or clogged injectors are also common. Have you had the injectors cleaned? Should be done about every 40K.

Go to www.autozone.com and create a free account. They have free on line manuals.

The idle is computer controlled. If they try turning the idle speed stop screw, the computer will compensate by running the idle air control motor in or out to get the idle back to the target speed. The only thing I can see, if they took the screw to the point that the computer can't find the target speed, that can give you a MIL. They would have had to take it to the point that the computer couldn't get the speed within its specified parameters.
I don't understand why they would have tried to adjust it anyway, unless there is another problem and they were trying to mickey mouse it.

Steve

Thanks for the reply, Tom.

Actually when I pulled different vacuum hoses off the truck it either dies immediately or runs for a few seconds and then dies. What let it run good for so long was when I pulled the plug off the vacuum tree. I'm probably not calling it the right thing but it is where a fitting that has no hose connected is plugged and where you would connect the vacuum gauge to run a test.

As far as why I haven't replaced the plug wires, I just got tired of throwing money at it and wanted to find out what was really wrong. Since it runs perfect with the vacuum plug off I can't believe replacing the wires would have any effect. I forgot to mention that I did check all the plugs to see if they were firing and they were.

I do agree that the problem may be vacuum connected, either something should open or close and it isn't.

I even replaced the heat sending unit because the temperature gauge wasn't giving a reading. I was hoping that was the cure. I now get a temperature reading but it didn't affect the idle.


If you have any other ideas I'm still listening.

Ok: Old school thinking and you have a valid point with plug wires. The vacuum tree unplugged it's capable of running ok. Most engineering defaulted to an acceptable running engine but would lack the tweek controls observed by even mechanical vacuum devices.

Note: The high voltage of spark and anything electric is seeking ground. Plug wires and anything directing the secondaries (high volt items) are under stress with load on engine and may seek ground w/o making the plug do the last arc to fire the mix. All the items are forcing the spark to jump at the plug but doesn't care where it ends up. Again - load is harder for it to make that spark then no load.

The typical vacuum tree is sensing engine temps and routes vacuum to assorted controls as needed according to engine temp OR the load on engine to adjust fuel mixture, timing even as long ago as 1990.

I would need to know what the vacuum tree (there may be more than one) is controlling. The era stopped EGR from operation till engine warmed up and routed that vacuum to devices for that and more based usually on engine temp.

The gauge. That is separate from usually a two wire temp sensor placed near thermostat usually to tell how much fuel to deliver. I think default is richer not leaner but I'm guessing,

T

Tom, if you can hang with me for a couple of days I'll try to track down the routes of all those vacuum hoses.

Just know - many cars/trucks back when has a decal sticker showing vacuum routing. At the age which is familiar to me look for that and plastic vacuum line that looks like wire - it can originate at a rubber part then to plastic which becomes brittle and breaks. In the infinite wisdom of auto makers they put them where then can break just checking fluid levels! Arggh! Bail out the stupid!

If broken plastic line is found, it can be spliced with window washer sized hose, FYI. Rubber elbows fail as well. Making a loop of hose out of harms way can create the right angle. Use automotive grade hose as needed if you find bad hose and elbows that tolerate heat and oils,

T

You're right about the schematic of the vacuum lines but it doesn't show all of them and I wanted to make sure they were accounted for. Here's what I got.

air bypass valve to SOLV tab
main vacuum to VRESER
VRESER to EVR
EGR to EVR
main vacuum to FPR
main vacuum to MAP
EFCA to PCV
main vacuum to power brakes
main vacuum to ac and heater doors

ERV solenoid bracket assembly to something that looks like a tin can.
main vacuum to a T or splitter. one line goes to another can and the other line goes to something about 6 or 8 inched round that has a hose coming out of it that goes into the passenger compartment. This thing also has a cable coming out of it that goes to the air throttle body and hooks the same place as the throttle cable.

I hope you make more sense out of this than I did.

Pardon my jumping in;
tweety; First, agree with Tom; I'd be back in the manager's office. If this runs better with a large vacuum line off, that is telling me that it is running too rich. I see that they replaced the MAP sensor. It should have manifold vacuum going to it. Also, use your vacuum guage and tell us what reading you are getting at idle. If the vacuum is lower than 14 or 15hg, it could be causing the MAP sensor to go rich. If you can get to the injectors, take an ohm reading of each individual injector. Could have one or more bad. Take a fuel pressure reading (with the vacuum hose to the regulator connected). Also, note if there is any fuel visible in the vacuum hose where it attaches to the regulator. (do this with the engine off). If the regulator is leaking, fuel may come squirting out with the engine running. (this should also have manifold vacuum going to it...a loss of vacuum will cause it to go full rich). With the pressure guage still attached, turn off the engine and watch the pressure to see if it drops. Notice how many pounds it drops in, say, five minutes.
Of course, I wasn't there, but would have to agree with Tom, poor diagnostics. Sounds like they were just throwing parts at it.

tweety; In my humble opinion, you shouldn't have to be having to do these diagnostics, anyway. You have paid someone that should know, at least something, about Fords to repair your problem. If I diagnose a problem incorrectly, and believe me, it happens, I will put the customer's old part back on at no charge. Not his fault, mine. Like I said, just my opinion. Good luck.