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  • GBR Fuel Injection
    GBR Fuel Injection
  • Motorcraft
    Motorcraft
  • Standard Ignition
    Standard Ignition
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Best Selling Genuine Lincoln Fuel Injectors

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  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Lincoln Replacement Fuel Injector Parts

We stock Fuel Injector parts for most Lincoln models, including LS, MKC, MKS, MKT, MKX, MKZ, Mark LT, Navigator, Town Car.

GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Lincoln Continental V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Lincoln Continental V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $36.23
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Disc style injector - Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Pintle style injector - Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $37.00
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Lincoln Navigator V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $37.00
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • To 12/3/06 - Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Lincoln Mark LT V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Lincoln Navigator V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $34.81
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Lincoln LS V 8 Cyl 3.9L 242 -
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Lincoln LS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 $32.64
  • Reman Fuel Injector
  • Stamped XW7EA5B - Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 8
    • Most jobs typically require 8 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Motorcraft
2017 Lincoln Navigator Fuel Injector Motorcraft

P311-3F17DD7    W0133-2021700  New

Qty:
$127.44
Motorcraft Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Incl.O-Rings
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Lincoln Navigator
Motorcraft
1999 Lincoln Navigator Fuel Injector Motorcraft

P311-04D855B    W0133-2623146  New

Qty:
$130.38
Motorcraft Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1999 - Lincoln Navigator SOHC
Motorcraft
2005 Lincoln Aviator Fuel Injector Motorcraft

P311-0D605C8    W0133-1914164  New

Qty:
$100.55
Motorcraft Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes O-Rings
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Lincoln Aviator
Motorcraft
2006 Lincoln Navigator Fuel Injector Motorcraft

P311-3CAFA06    W0133-1854326  New

Qty:
$55.53
Motorcraft Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes O-Rings
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Lincoln Navigator
Motorcraft
2007 Lincoln Mark LT Fuel Injector Motorcraft

P311-3CAFA06    W0133-1854326  New

Qty:
$55.53
Motorcraft Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -12/03/2006
  • Includes O-Rings
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Lincoln Mark LT To:12-03-06
Motorcraft
2008 Lincoln Navigator Fuel Injector Motorcraft

P311-321BBFB    W0133-1883892  New

Qty:
$41.59
Motorcraft Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Incl.O-Rings
  • Includes O-Rings
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Lincoln Navigator

Latest Lincoln Repair and Fuel Injector Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

fuel Injector left rear 1998 Lincoln Town car

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From robin1954xp on fuel Injector left rear 1998 Lincoln Town car

fuel Injector left rear 1998 Lincoln Town car. How do i remove and replace.
It has an unknown bracket covering the left rear injector underneath the firewall. where are the bolts to remove this bracket? I can't see where the bracket goes.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

All the fuel injectors are held in by the fuel rail and the entire rail has to be removed to access any of the injectors.

83 mark 6 can a car with a throttle body have flooding

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From buckhunter on 83 mark 6 can a car with a throttle body have flooding

I have a 83 lincoln mark 6, 5.0, 123.000 on it, I am not sure but when I start the car it acts like my old cars use to when they was flooded, it runs real bad and has alot of blue/black smoke out the back, it has a throttle body, and fuel injectors, if anyone has any ideas please advise, Thank you so much for your time. also if any idea how to fix would help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ya - it could feel like flooded and snap out of it - does it and then run ok? Injectors could be leaking down after shut off,

T

2002 Lincoln town car, no. 5 spark plug is misfiring

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From Juche on 2002 Lincoln town car, no. 5 spark plug is misfiring

In my 2002 town car, 112k, standard V8 engine, I had the timing chain worked on a couple of months ago. Ever since then I have had problems with the car shaking, accelerating, vibrating, etc. I couldn't figure out what the problem was, I thought it was either a fuel system or an electrical problem.

About 2 weeks ago the check engine light came on, I took it to a shop and it was the no. 5 spark plug was misfiring. So the guy at the shop erased the code. I had the 100k maintenance done on my car including replacing all 8 spark plugs. That didn't help, and the light came back on. I had it read at autozone and same thing, no. 5 spark plug.

The ignition coil connector clip that connects to the ignition coil had a problem, a latch that is supposed to hold it on was broken. So I bought a new one of those and had it spliced to the wires, then hooked to the ignition coil. Doing that improved but didn't fix the situation.

It used to be the check engine light was on or blinking constantly. Since I had that done a couple days ago the light has only blinked once (it blinked 5 times). The car sometimes idles and accelerates smoothly, sometimes it shakes. When the light came on I was driving at 55 and the car started shaking more than normal.

So what do I do now? I have considered buying a new ignition coil. I have also thought about replacing the vacuum tubes for the fuel injector. What else is there to look at? I hope the fuel injector itself isn't going bad. My understanding is my model doesn't have a distributor cap and replacing the ignition coil would be my next best move.

Why would this problem not be consistent? It used to be consistently bad until I had the ignition coil connector replaced. Now it is intermittent.

I have already tried fuel system cleaner in the tank, and I've tried water remover in case there was some water in my gas. Neither helped (I think the water remover may have made it worse). When I had my 100k maintenance done the mechanic put sea foam in the vacuum lines, it didn't make a difference.

Response From Hammer Time

You know, doing/diagnosing your own work isn't always the cheaper way to go, especially when you don't know what you're doing. You've turned what would have been a very basic diagnosis by a qualified tech that most likely would have been free in many shops into something expensive and complicated. This engine is notorious for bad coils which would have been the first thing any knowledgeable tech would have gone to. I don't know what "vacuum tubes for the fuel injector" are supposed but there is no such thing. Replace the coil and pray you haven't ruined your Catalytic Converter by driving it that way.
For future reference, flashing lights on the dashboard generally mean "shut the car off immediately".

Response From Juche

You know, doing/diagnosing your own work isn't always the cheaper way to go, especially when you don't know what you're doing. You've turned what would have been a very basic diagnosis by a qualified tech that most likely would have been free in many shops into something expensive and complicated. This engine is notorious for bad coils which would have been the first thing any knowledgeable tech would have gone to. I don't know what "vacuum tubes for the fuel injector" are supposed but there is no such thing. Replace the coil and pray you haven't ruined your Catalytic Converter by driving it that way.
For future reference, flashing lights on the dashboard generally mean "shut the car off immediately".

Close but no. It was the ignition coil and the fuel injector that were going bad.

Replacing the ignition coil connector made the problem about 70% better. The CEL light came on sporadically and the car shook and hesitated, but not consisently.

A mechanic changed out the ignition coil by switching it with no. 7 and found it wasn't sparking as good as it should, so he installed a new ignition coil on no. 5. But that alone didn't fix the problem.

So he also replaced the fuel injector. That seems to have fixed it. I have driven it 250 miles since getting it back from the mechanic and I've had no shaking, hesitating, loss of acceleration, CELs etc. Of course that could come back who knows.

The real question is why would all these physical parts fail for the same cylinder. The coil connector wasn't connecting properly, the ignition coil wasn't sparking as well as it should and the fuel injector seems to have been damaged and it all occurred in the no. 5.

The catalytic converter is fine according to the mechanic.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I don't believe it ever had a bad injector. I advised it was a bad coil from the beginning and I suspect he just forgot to plug the injector back in when he was playing with the coils. I fix these things all the time and I have changed hundreds of coils and not even one injector. If the guy had any experience in these engines, he would have immediately recognized the bad coil.

Response From Juche

I appreciate the reply. I did have the light read by a mechanic and he told me it was a spark plug misfiring, he erased the code and told me there was no harm in driving it. I did not know a blinking CEL was different from a regular CEL. I hope I haven't damaged the car. I will get the ignition coil replaced. The car has been at a mechanics for the last couple days as they try to figure out what is wrong. Ever since the ignition coil connector was replaced this problem is sporadic instead of constant.

Response From Hammer Time

If this guy couldn't recognize a bad COP on a Ford and then tells you it's OK to drive, I wouldn't call him a mechanic. This is basic stuff. The flashing check engine light means that the misfire is severe enough to damage the Converter and shouldn't be driven.

01' Lincoln LS V8

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From dpartain on 01' Lincoln LS V8

Year of vehicle: 2001
Make of vehicle: Lincoln
Model of vehicle: LS
Engine size: 3.9L
Mileage/Kilometers: 128,496 M

I bought my car in 05' and haven't really had any problems until the last year or so. So far I've had the oil changed on or about every 3,000 miles. I've gotten the following all changed or fixed. Spark plugs, tire rod ends, struts, new battery, mass air flow, air induction, ignition coil boot, new tires x2.

Just recently the ABS light started coming on as well as the engine light. Solid just until the car warms up and then off and on for the rest of the time driving. I live in Atlanta so its not too ridiculously cold but could that be the problem? Also, if I don't let the car warm up in the morning, it smells when I brake. Can't really say it's specific to anything but I am no car buff by any means. Oh also the car putters when I'm stopped, and again once we reach 40-50 m/h. I don't know why, but it seemed to start right after we took it in to get the oil changed one time. They messed with the idle and now it idles around 500-700.

Your response is greatly appreciated!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

dpartain; The ABS lamp could be on due to low brake fluid level. However, since you have a check engine lamp illuminating also, I'm going to surmise that it may be a wheel speed sensor problem. Once the CEL illuminates, it will store a trouble code which can be retrieved with a scan tool to head you in the correct direction. You mentioned that they 'messed with the idle speed'. This should not have been done. The idle speed is controlled by the computer. If the 'hard stop' was manually adjusted to increase the idle speed, that will 'throw off' the TPS (throttle position sensor) and cause more problems, which include transmission shifting. Have the PCM and ABS systems scanned for trouble codes. You can post the codes here before you 'spend' any money.

Response From dpartain

First off I want to say thanks for even taking your time to read my "blog/problem"... And so quickly to a response. Wow! It's nice to get feedback/helpful hints w/o paying an arm and a leg! Okay, so like I mentioned I am light years behind the average person when it comes to knowing about any aspect of car/trucks/suv's/mtv's etc... So your suggesting that I take it to a local Auto Zone/Advanced Auto Parts to get the trouble codes? Also, how should I go about finding out why my ABS is on/off? Tell "Jiffy Lube/Goodyear" to top the brake fluid level when I get my oil changed? And you mentioned that it could be a speed sensor problem? Will that have anything to do with fuses? I'm sorry, I should know a little bit more about these things but somehow I have seemed to manage/get lucky until now.

Before they messed with the idle, my car idled around 1000. So they lowered it. This work was done back in July 2009. You see, we initially had that kicking/puttering problem and took it back to Monroe a few times but they said that there was nothing wrong with the car and that it's just the "normal wear and tear" that happens to a car after 9 years. So a couple months passed and out of the blue it stopped kicking/puttering. And now its back... And not only that but for some reason it doesn't always start the first go around. Its weird because like 96% of the time it will start first go around (1st time its started for the day) and then once its been started/turned off a couple of times, it takes up to 3 tries from then on out for the rest of the day. I don't know if that made any sense to you but like lets say I for some reason I make 7 stops and each time I turned off the car. It would probably start the first time for 2 of the stops. But for the last 5 it would take multiple turn overs. I've been told its the starter, the transmission, some kind of leak in an air valve???. All of which were dealerships and car shops assuming trying to squeeze me for every penny and then some because I am car illiterate.

Lastly, I get a horrible smell every now and then when I'm stopped at a light. I suspect its my brakes but then again who am I to suspect anything. Could this be its just low on brake fluid as well? I mean it really gets going pretty good and seems to fog up the car until I let the windows down for a min until the light turns green.

Thanks for your time!

Dustin

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

dpartain; Yes, have the codes retrieved and post them for us to see. It isn't ethical to 'bad mouth' other business', but Jiffy Lube/Goodyear are oil change/tire shops. Some have tried to 'expand' into other areas, but in my area, with not much success. I'm sure they 'mean' well. Do not feel bad about not knowing automotive technologies. Autos have changed. Back in the 60s and 70s, anyone with anything more than a brain could work on these things. It is no different than any other profession. There are a lot of things that I have not a clue of how it works. So, we're even. LOL. IMHO, there's no such thing as 'normal wear and tear'. If it doesn't work, there's a reason why. Yes, something may be worn out, but it's 'fixable'. I would like to see fuel pressure tests; Cold, KOEO, KOER for the starting problems.
From your post, I'm assuming that you don't want to do any testing yourself. Find a shop that you feel you can trust. Talk with friends, relatives, enemies, BBB.
>>Lastly, I get a horrible smell every now and then when I'm stopped at a light. I suspect its my brakes but then again who am I to suspect anything. Could this be its just low on brake fluid as well? I mean it really gets going pretty good and seems to fog up the car until I let the windows down for a min until the light turns green.<<
This could be from a vacuum leak. The heater controls are controlled by vacuum operated dashpots. If the engine isn't running properly, or one of the dashpots are faulty, this could be causing the problem. Or, a leaking heater core.
Anti-freeze has a sweet smell. Could be what you are smelling?

Response From dpartain

Alright, so I have been all over Atlanta today. I visited (2) AutoZones because the code I received had to do something with spark plugs... I had to go to different AutoZones because I was a little weary as to believe them being that I just got my spark plugs change a couple of months ago. And then the dude basically told me to smell the roses and that it didn't necessarily have to do with the spark plugs.

Below is pretty much word for word the codes/printout they gave me:

TROUBLESHOOTING P0308
OEM Brand: DOMESTIC

Definition
Cylinder misfire detected-cylinder number 8
Explanation
The powertrain control module monitors the crankshaft speed and has detected a misfire condition
Probable Cause
Ignition system fault-spark plug(s), ignition wires, coil
Vacuum leak
Injector Fault
High or low fuel pressure

Definition
Cylinder misfire detected-cylinder number 5
Explanation
The powertrain control module monitors the crankshaft speed and has detected a misfire condition
Probable Cause
Ignition system fault-spark plug(s), ignition wires, coil
Vacuum leak
Injector Fault
High or low fuel pressure

They said they couldn't check the ABS and I wasn't done getting consumer reviews on car shops/mechanics.

Response From way2old

Those engines are really bad about burning holes in the coil boots where they go down in the head. #8 is on the drivers side rear plug. Rempve the coil and boot and look closely at the boot to see if there is any sign of arcing through the boot. Coils go for about 50$ and boots are about 7 at Autozone. The ABS light needs to be read by a higher quality scan tool than AZ uses. Most places will charge about 1/2 hour diagnostic charge to read the codes.

Response From way2old

Thought you said you were old and slow Loren.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

W2O; I saw you typing. Had to really hurry.

Response From aireeca

OK, the 2000 Lincoln LS V8 belonging to a coworker is throwing a p0305 code, but only when there's a bunch of moisture around (car washes, really rainy days). Any thoughts?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

P0305 is misfire, cylinder #5. If it only misfires in damp conditions, I'd suspect secondary. (forward most cylinder, left bank). This is COP type. Common for the COP boots to form a carbon track in the inside. Should always replace them when replacing plugs. Also, use dielectric grease on the inside of the boot when installing.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

The P0305 and P0308 are both misfire codes for cylinders #5 & #8. Those two cylinders are the front and rear on the left bank. A very common cause of misfires on these 'coil over plug' engines is either the coil or the insulator. The top picture shows the insulator which attaches the coil to the spark plug. These will get a carbon track on the inside which you have to look very closely to see, if at all. It's also possible that the porcelain on the spark plugs were cracked during installation? A quick, easy test, would be to put #5 coil on #6 cylinder, and #8 coil on #7 cylinder, clear codes, and see if the misfires change cylinders. (examine the spark plugs and insulators on 5 and 8 while you have the coils off). There are other causes of misfires, as well, but let's start with the most common ones, first. Dirty or clogged injectors are also common. Have you had the injectors cleaned? Should be done about every 40K.

Response From dpartain Top Rated Answer

Okay. I'll see if that is at all possible for me to do. Ill look for some manuals online to see step by step. Bc trust me I need it. On the other hand, if that doesn't go so swell ill just take it to a mechanic. That is of course when I actually find one that I can trust. As for the fuel injectors cleaned.... that is a yes. But for the coils... its kinda been on the hush. When the spark plugs were changed out a couple of months ago the mechanics mentioned changing out the coils as well but I didnt know if it was a scam. Because they told us that they couldnt tell if the coils were bad until they took them off. But if they took them off there was a chance that they could brake because they are fagile? So we just stuck with the new spark plugs. From what I have heard coils are an expensive piece of candy. The mechanics that changed the sparks quoted us like $600+ to have them replaced.

Response From way2old

Go to www.autozone.com and create a free account. They have free on line manuals.

Response From steve01832

The idle is computer controlled. If they try turning the idle speed stop screw, the computer will compensate by running the idle air control motor in or out to get the idle back to the target speed. The only thing I can see, if they took the screw to the point that the computer can't find the target speed, that can give you a MIL. They would have had to take it to the point that the computer couldn't get the speed within its specified parameters.
I don't understand why they would have tried to adjust it anyway, unless there is another problem and they were trying to mickey mouse it.

Steve

hard starting , rough idle

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Question From tweety on hard starting , rough idle

After my 1990 Ford F150, 6 cylinder, 4.9 engine, two wheel drive, automatic transmission with 55000 miles on it had not been driven for a month or so I tried to start it. It would start but in a few seconds it would start running rough and die. It would do this several times and then continue to run but still run rough. Punch the gas and it would stall and die.

Since it had been sitting up I suspected something was sticking or gummed up. The last time it had been driven it ran fine.

I took it to the dealer, Brian Toliver Ford-Lincoln-Mercury in Sulphur Springs, Texas, expecting to get it back within a week. Three weeks later and at the cost of over $1200 I picked it up and it still does not run right.

Here is what they told me was done:
Solis setup/follow multiple code. Follow pinpoint test-replace EEC relay- retest- replace MAP sensor- retest-clean throttle body and idle air control valve- retest- sparkplugs gas fouled- lower exhaust and check for restriction- none found- replace sparkplugs- retest- code 96 unable to clear- install breakout box to isolate- processor internal failure to fuel management circuit- replace processor. Replaced fuel filter.

The parts they replaced are as follows:
1 r647 relay
1dy-527 sensor
1 60846 gasket
6 sp-452 spark plugs
112a650 PCM
1 fuel filter

When I went to pick it up the service manager said it was still not running right and suggested that I let them put on new spark plug wires. At this point I’m beginning to think of him as a parts salesman instead of a service manager. I said no and took it home.

I thought that with all their test equipment that they could find and fix it. Is it really that hard to find, are they incompetent, or were they just trying to make up for a bad economy? Which do you think it is? I don’t know but I’ve lost a lot of faith in Ford motor company.

When I checked under the hood I found covers at test sites missing, parts loose, and in two cases things in the motor compartment completely detached.

I have since tested the resistance of the plug wires and they range from 60 ohms to 8000 ohms. Checked all vacuum hoses. Checked fuses. Checked the distributor for cracks and wires for cracks. Put cleaner into the gas tank to clean the fuel injectors. Yesterday I remover the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator. It started immediately, ran good for 30 seconds, then died. Put the hose back on, started immediately, ran for good for 30 seconds, then died. Took the plug off the vacuum tree, started immediately, ran great and kept on running until the key was turned off. When I punched the gas it revved up and didn’t stall. Today I tried it again without the vacuum plug. The first two times it started and died immediately. The third time it ran smooth. Put it in gear and it ran rough for a few seconds, then smoothed out. Drove it three or four miles, still running good. Turned the AC on at idle, still good.

I could run it like that but it’s probably not good to be sucking dust into the mix and also it probably is polluting or something and maybe even dangerous because something else might not work correctly.

If anyone has some ideas of what is going on I sure would appreciate hearing them.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Arggh! Three weeks , $1,200 bucks and they had the audacity to give it back to you not running properly! They left stuff off, unplugged etc.?

That's just bad work, bad all around. If they truly lack diagnostic ability THEY should have refused the job but not sure dealers are really able (perhaps a car maker's rule for franchise) to turn down a vehicle they sell or at least tell you what is wrong and why they can't do it. No excuse for leaving covers off of things.

It's nearing or at 20 years old and there are some things that could be unavailable but they should have told you.

What I'm reading now - it runs fine with a vacuum hose off and runs rough with it back on - right? What does that vacuum hose go to or come from? What ever that changed it can only be covering up a problem so it isn't fixed.

I'd have that bill adjusted by management and seek a reputable independent shop.

Some of the 300CID/4.9 six engines did have an issue with stretched head bolts leading to leaking head gasket. If the turn to spec bolts they must be replaced new if that's the issue but the diagnostic time spent should have found this.
________________

Is this a random roughness or picking on a certain cylinder? You can feel that at the tailpipe then if one cylinder concentrate on why that one. Are plug wires original? Why for the low cost of those haven't you ruled them out with new ones?
/ Price: $24.99
AVAILABILITY: SEND TO STORE LIST AVAILABLE Normally stocked at your local store. ******************* That's not enough money for parts that could have been done if you just were doing a PM tune up. An average DIYer can cancel one plug at a time grounding it at spark plug end and find the one cylinder (if just one) that's the trouble and diagnose that cylinder. This is a messed up way to do biz so talk to the person in charge of the whole place about this is my suggestion, T

Response From tweety

Thanks for the reply, Tom.

Actually when I pulled different vacuum hoses off the truck it either dies immediately or runs for a few seconds and then dies. What let it run good for so long was when I pulled the plug off the vacuum tree. I'm probably not calling it the right thing but it is where a fitting that has no hose connected is plugged and where you would connect the vacuum gauge to run a test.

As far as why I haven't replaced the plug wires, I just got tired of throwing money at it and wanted to find out what was really wrong. Since it runs perfect with the vacuum plug off I can't believe replacing the wires would have any effect. I forgot to mention that I did check all the plugs to see if they were firing and they were.

I do agree that the problem may be vacuum connected, either something should open or close and it isn't.

I even replaced the heat sending unit because the temperature gauge wasn't giving a reading. I was hoping that was the cure. I now get a temperature reading but it didn't affect the idle.


If you have any other ideas I'm still listening.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Old school thinking and you have a valid point with plug wires. The vacuum tree unplugged it's capable of running ok. Most engineering defaulted to an acceptable running engine but would lack the tweek controls observed by even mechanical vacuum devices.

Note: The high voltage of spark and anything electric is seeking ground. Plug wires and anything directing the secondaries (high volt items) are under stress with load on engine and may seek ground w/o making the plug do the last arc to fire the mix. All the items are forcing the spark to jump at the plug but doesn't care where it ends up. Again - load is harder for it to make that spark then no load.

The typical vacuum tree is sensing engine temps and routes vacuum to assorted controls as needed according to engine temp OR the load on engine to adjust fuel mixture, timing even as long ago as 1990.

I would need to know what the vacuum tree (there may be more than one) is controlling. The era stopped EGR from operation till engine warmed up and routed that vacuum to devices for that and more based usually on engine temp.

The gauge. That is separate from usually a two wire temp sensor placed near thermostat usually to tell how much fuel to deliver. I think default is richer not leaner but I'm guessing,

T

Response From tweety

Tom, if you can hang with me for a couple of days I'll try to track down the routes of all those vacuum hoses.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just know - many cars/trucks back when has a decal sticker showing vacuum routing. At the age which is familiar to me look for that and plastic vacuum line that looks like wire - it can originate at a rubber part then to plastic which becomes brittle and breaks. In the infinite wisdom of auto makers they put them where then can break just checking fluid levels! Arggh! Bail out the stupid!

If broken plastic line is found, it can be spliced with window washer sized hose, FYI. Rubber elbows fail as well. Making a loop of hose out of harms way can create the right angle. Use automotive grade hose as needed if you find bad hose and elbows that tolerate heat and oils,

T

Response From tweety

You're right about the schematic of the vacuum lines but it doesn't show all of them and I wanted to make sure they were accounted for. Here's what I got.

air bypass valve to SOLV tab
main vacuum to VRESER
VRESER to EVR
EGR to EVR
main vacuum to FPR
main vacuum to MAP
EFCA to PCV
main vacuum to power brakes
main vacuum to ac and heater doors

ERV solenoid bracket assembly to something that looks like a tin can.
main vacuum to a T or splitter. one line goes to another can and the other line goes to something about 6 or 8 inched round that has a hose coming out of it that goes into the passenger compartment. This thing also has a cable coming out of it that goes to the air throttle body and hooks the same place as the throttle cable.

I hope you make more sense out of this than I did.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Pardon my jumping in;
tweety; First, agree with Tom; I'd be back in the manager's office. If this runs better with a large vacuum line off, that is telling me that it is running too rich. I see that they replaced the MAP sensor. It should have manifold vacuum going to it. Also, use your vacuum guage and tell us what reading you are getting at idle. If the vacuum is lower than 14 or 15hg, it could be causing the MAP sensor to go rich. If you can get to the injectors, take an ohm reading of each individual injector. Could have one or more bad. Take a fuel pressure reading (with the vacuum hose to the regulator connected). Also, note if there is any fuel visible in the vacuum hose where it attaches to the regulator. (do this with the engine off). If the regulator is leaking, fuel may come squirting out with the engine running. (this should also have manifold vacuum going to it...a loss of vacuum will cause it to go full rich). With the pressure guage still attached, turn off the engine and watch the pressure to see if it drops. Notice how many pounds it drops in, say, five minutes.
Of course, I wasn't there, but would have to agree with Tom, poor diagnostics. Sounds like they were just throwing parts at it.

Response From tweety

Hey! All help appreciated.

I checked the vacuum and it runs at a pretty steady 20 inches. I believe that is about right for my part of the country.

It seems impossible getting to the fuel injectors without taking the intake manifold off.

The gasoline is under pressure at all times and I'm not sure how to handle that so I better leave it alone.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

tweety; In my humble opinion, you shouldn't have to be having to do these diagnostics, anyway. You have paid someone that should know, at least something, about Fords to repair your problem. If I diagnose a problem incorrectly, and believe me, it happens, I will put the customer's old part back on at no charge. Not his fault, mine. Like I said, just my opinion. Good luck.