Shop Isuzu Fuel Injectors

I have a 1998 Isuzu Hombre pickup. 2.2L 4 cyl eng with automatic tranny. It has 114000 miles, 14k of these on a new transmission. Was misfiring and running very rough and we replaced a clogged catalytic convertor. Ran fine for a week, now same roughness - diagnosis by repair shop says 80# pressure from fuel pump and needs regulator.

Is 80# in the acceptable range? Is there a fuel injector regulator for each cylinder or one for the system? How do I install the regulator?

Fixit53

That pressure is too high and could be the cause of your 1st cat going out. Spec are 41 to 47 psi regulated pressure.

The regulator bolts on to the end of the fuel rail and is fairly easy to replace. One thing to double check is the return lines to make sure it isn't blocked or kinked, that to will give you very high fuel pressure....

Is the fuel rail separate from the upper and lower intake manifold? Should the regulator replacement take care of the pressure so that a fuel pump doesn't need replaced at this time?

The rail is separate from the manifold but the upper one may have to be removed to access it.

As far as the fuel pump goes, having to put out that type of pressure has been twice as hard on it, similar to running around with a restricted fuel filter so only time will tell if this has taken a toll on it..........

Thanks!! I'll give it a shot. I've replaced a bunch of the little stuff like alternator, belts, battery that I don't want to part it out yet! Thanks,again!

Thanks for all of your advice! With three boys and all their cars and my full time job, I just got it fixed. The regulator went in without removing the upper manifold. It was at the firewall side of the rail and I was able to reach it without too much trouble. Thanks, again!!

Ok. I just bought this old trooper and in ran good on the test drive. 50 miles later it started to spit and sputter while loosing power. Check engine light came on then went off. So I turn the key off and back on. It runs perfect for a while, then the same thing again?
The battery, plug wires, cap and rotor and plugs are all new. What resets when the ignition is turned off then back on?

Any help would be greatly appreciated....

The code 12 flashes at the start and the end and 4 is not a legitimate codes.





TROUBLE CODE IDENTIFICATION

CODE 12 Indicates that on-board diagnostics are functioning when diagnostic leads are connected and ignition is "ON" (engine not running). Code not stored in memory.
CODE 13 Oxygen sensor defective or open circuit.
CODE 14 Shorted coolant sensor circuit.
CODE 15 Open coolant sensor circuit.
CODE 21 Both idle and wide open throttle "ON" simultaneously in throttle valve switch.
CODE 22 Open or shorted starter signal circuit.
CODE 23 Shorted power transistor output terminal.
CODE 25 Open or shorted circuit for pressure regulator VSV.
CODE 26 Open or shorted circuit for canister VSV.
CODE 27 Open in ECM driver transistor for canister VSV.
CODE 32 EGR gas temperature sensor malfunction.
CODE 33 Open or shorted circuit in fuel injector harness, dropping resistor or inside ECM.
CODE 34 EGR gas temperature sensor or wiring faulty.
CODE 35 Ignition power transistor harness open circuit.
CODE 41 Crank angle sensor open circuit or faulty signal.
CODE 43 Throttle valve switch idle contact continuously "ON."
CODE 44 Lean signal from oxygen sensor.
CODE 45 Rich signal from oxygen sensor.
CODE 51 Abnormal ROM in ECM micro computer.
CODE 52 Abnormal RAM in ECM micro computer.
CODE 53 Open in ECM driver transistor for pressure regulator VSV.
CODE 54 Defective ignition power transistor or grounding system.
CODE 61 Shorted or broken air flow sensor hot wire.
CODE 62 Broken air flow sensor cold wire.
CODE 63 Open or shorted wiring or defective vehicle speed sensor.
CODE 64 Open in ECM driver transistor for fuel injectors.
CODE 65 Wide open throttle contact in throttle valve switch continually "ON."

Hi so.... my friends rodeo wont start... she had fuel injectors,sensors,fuel pump changed...and yes there is gas in in :) The fuel pump doesnt come on or make that humming sound its suppose to make to let you know its working. we took it back and had it tested and at the suto store the mumming sound comes on! any suggestions?

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

2002 Isuzu Axiom XS 3.5L v6 - Distributor-less ignition system, Coil-On-Plug system (each spark plug has its own coil pack)

Symptoms are loss of power and misfiring (P0300 random misfire), rough idling, when I put it in gear the RPMs drop to like 600 and sounds like it will stall. Check Engine blinks which means it is having misfires.

If I unplug any of the passenger side bank spark plug connectors it basically stalls out, but when I unplug any and all of the driver side bank spark plugs it doesn't stall and you can't really tell the difference.

What happen:

The water pump went out and the engine overheated. Me and my friend put a new water pump on, but it's behind the timing belt, so I brought it to a garage and had them do the timing. They said they hand cranked it several times and the timing marks were lined up every time. About an hour after this happen, I started it just to move it about 50 feet to another road and left it there. It was running fine.


What I have done since it's been out of the garage:

your code reader - I think it is limited not capable of all codes esp manufacturers specific, those that could help with cam crank sync.


your description suggests driver side is not firing.

Autolite in this engine? Unless something new those are wrong plugs no matter what claims they had,


T

I agree. That should have NGK