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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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    Continental
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    GBR Fuel Injection
  • Genuine
    Genuine
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Best Selling Genuine Bmw Fuel Injectors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including GBR Fuel Injection, Genuine, Bosch
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We stock Fuel Injector parts for most Bmw models, including 318i, 318is, 318ti, 320i, 323Ci, 323i, 325Ci, 325i, 325is, 325xi, 328i, 328i xDrive, 328is, 328xi, 330Ci, 330i, 330xi, 335d, 335i, 335xi, 525i, 525xi, 528i, 528xi, 530i, 530xi, 535i, 535i xDrive, 540i, 545i, 550i, 635CSi, 645Ci, 650i, 735i, 740i, 740iL, 745Li, 745i, 750Li, 750i, 750iL, M3, M5, M6, X3, X5, Z3, Z4.


GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 35.27
GBR Fuel Injection Fuel Injector
  • ; Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - BMW 320i L 6 Cyl 2.2L 132 2171
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$10.00 35.27
GBR Fuel Injection Fuel Injector
  • ; Always replace fuel filter when injector is replaced.
  • Reman Multi Port Fuel Injector
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB’s line of remanufactured OEM fuel injectors are remanufactured using a proven 15 step process at a state-of-the-art remanufacturing facility in the U.S.A. Each injector is 100% tested under multiple operating conditions to ensure each injector meets or exceeds OE specifications for flow rate, spray pattern, coil resistance, form, fit and function. Each injector includes new external seals and o-rings.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 6
    • Most jobs typically require 6 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - BMW 330Ci L 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2979
Genuine
2007 BMW X3 Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-54DD371    W0133-1770935  New

Qty:
266.74
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Upper and Lower Seals.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - BMW X3
Genuine
2007 BMW Z4 Fuel Injector 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine

P311-54DD371    W0133-1770935  New

Qty:
266.74
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - BMW Z4 L 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2996
Genuine
2007 BMW 328i Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-54DD371    W0133-1770935  New

Qty:
266.74
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -09/30/2006
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Body Prod. Date Range
2007 - BMW 328i N51B30A Coupe To:09-30-06
Genuine
2012 BMW 328i Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-54DD371    W0133-1770935  New

Qty:
266.74
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Incl.O-Rings
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2012 - BMW 328i N52
Genuine
2007 BMW 335xi Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-45093AA    W0133-1967484  New

Qty:
409.24
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; CRITICAL INSTALLTION NOTE: The injector requires a calibration procedure be performed via the Service Functions path in the DME.
  • Also Required: (1) 13 53 7 564 751 Decoupling Element
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - BMW 335xi
Genuine
2011 BMW 760Li Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-45093AA    W0133-1967484  New

Qty:
409.24
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Also Required: (1) 13 53 7 584 315 Injector Seal
  • Also Required: (1) 13 53 7 564 751 Decoupling Element
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - BMW 760Li
Genuine
2012 BMW X5 Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-45093AA    W0133-1967484  New

Qty:
409.24
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Also Required: (1) 13 53 7 564 751 Decoupling Element
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2012 - BMW X5 S63B44A
Genuine
2013 BMW X6 Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-45093AA    W0133-1967484  New

Qty:
409.24
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -04/30/2013
  • Also Required: (1) 13 53 7 564 751 Decoupling Element
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Prod. Date Range
2013 - BMW X6 S63B44A To:04-30-13
Genuine
2013 BMW X6 Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-45093AA    W0133-1967484  New

Qty:
409.24
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 05/01/2013-
  • Also Required: (1) 13 53 7 564 751 Decoupling Element
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Prod. Date Range
2013 - BMW X6 S63B44A Fr:05-01-13
Genuine
2010 BMW X5 Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-45093AA    W0133-1967484  New

Qty:
409.24
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -02/28/2009
  • Also Required: (1) 13 53 7 564 751 Decoupling Element
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Prod. Date Range
2010 - BMW X5 Turbocharged GAS To:02-28-09
Genuine
2010 BMW X5 Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-45093AA    W0133-1967484  New

Qty:
409.24
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 03/01/2009-
  • Also Required: (1) 13 53 7 564 751 Decoupling Element
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Prod. Date Range
2010 - BMW X5 Turbocharged GAS Fr:03-01-09
Bosch
1999 BMW Z3 Fuel Injector 6 Cyl 3.2L Bosch

P311-29CBBDB    W0133-1663144  New

Qty:
114.39
Bosch Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Multi Port Injection
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - BMW Z3 L 6 Cyl 3.2L - 3152
Bosch
1998 BMW Z3 Fuel Injector 6 Cyl 3.2L Bosch

P311-29CBBDB    W0133-1663144  New

Qty:
114.39
Bosch Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Multi Port Injection
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - BMW Z3 L 6 Cyl 3.2L - 3152
Bosch
2012 BMW 528i Fuel Injector Bosch

P311-03D405B    W0133-1920751  New

Qty:
145.39
Bosch Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Direct Injection
  • ; with EU5 Fuel Injectors
  • IMPORTANT: Per BMW Service Bulletin S1 B13 03 15 the Injectors in the vehic le may not match what is listed in the BMW ETK. Identify the Injector insta lled in the vehicle using ISTA / D 4.04 or later test plan using the follow ing path: Vehicle Management - Service Functions - Powertrain - Engine Elec tronics - Injector Determination. Test plan will state "This engine require s EU# Injectors" Also: 13 53 7 577 649 Decoupling Element required when rep lacing Injector
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - BMW 528i
Genuine
2013 BMW 528i Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-2FB1336    W0133-1920751  New

Qty:
423.38
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; with EU5 Fuel Injectors
  • IMPORTANT: Per BMW Service Bulletin S1 B13 03 15 the Injectors in the vehic le may not match what is listed in the BMW ETK. Identify the Injector insta lled in the vehicle using ISTA / D 4.04 or later test plan using the follow ing path: Vehicle Management - Service Functions - Powertrain - Engine Elec tronics - Injector Determination. Test plan will state "This engine require s EU# Injectors" Also: 13 53 7 577 649 Decoupling Element required when rep lacing Injector
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - BMW 528i
Bosch
2016 BMW 320i xDrive Fuel Injector Bosch

P311-03D405B    W0133-1920751  New

Qty:
145.39
Bosch Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Direct Injection
  • ; with EU5 Fuel Injectors
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - BMW 320i xDrive
Bosch
2016 BMW 435i xDrive Gran Coupe Fuel Injector Bosch

P311-03D405B    W0133-1920751  New

Qty:
145.39
Bosch Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Direct Injection
  • ; with EU5 Fuel Injectors and with Bosch High-Pressure Fuel Pump
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - BMW 435i xDrive Gran Coupe
Genuine
2012 BMW X5 Fuel Injector Genuine

P311-2FB1336    W0133-1920751  New

Qty:
423.38
Genuine Fuel Injector
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; with EU5 Fuel Injectors and with Bosch High-Pressure Fuel Pump
  • IMPORTANT: Per BMW Service Bulletin S1 B13 03 15 the Injectors in the vehic le may not match what is listed in the BMW ETK. Identify the Injector insta lled in the vehicle using ISTA / D 4.04 or later test plan using the follow ing path: Vehicle Management - Service Functions - Powertrain - Engine Elec tronics - Injector Determination. Test plan will state "This engine require s EU# Injectors" Also: 13 53 7 577 649 Decoupling Element required when rep lacing Injector
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2012 - BMW X5 N55B30A

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Anyone can help me with this BMW problem?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From bmergirl on Anyone can help me with this BMW problem?

I have a 1994 BMW 740iL which is a nice riding car, but whenever I try to excellerate to 60 miles per hour the car shakes. Is it my fuel injector that's 'dirty"? Or do I need a new fuel pump? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Response From thomas74 Top Rated Answer

i could be wrong but i think u need tires or wheels not injectors or pump

Multiple maintenance issues of the same type - Mechanic goes out of business. Help!

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From tek0011 on Multiple maintenance issues of the same type - Mechanic goes out of business. Help!

I purchased a 2001 530i with 65,008 miles on it, clean title, 1 owner, good history.
Since then I have put over $4,000 of maintenance into the vehicle and some issues have been fixed multiple times. Those same issues are arising again and I am wondering if there is anything I can do as a consumer?
The mechanic that has done all the work is now out of business and I can't even seem to get the warranty's to have another mechanic do the repairs (that is if warranties are even transferable to other shops?)

9/3/10 - 65,008 miles - Vehicle Purchase (1,000 mile 30 day warranty)

9/20/10 - 66,145 miles (past the 1,000 mile warranty): Check Engine light comes on - Scan reveals the following codes: Fuel Trim codes-228, 203, 227, 202. Miss fire codes-242, 243, 241, 240. O2 Sensor code-189.
Smoke tested and major leaks are found.

10/15/2010 - 67,382 miles - Car idles around 200rpm, shakes while accelerating, major lack of power:
Smoke test is performed. Intake Manifold Runner Valve replaced

10/18/2010 - 67,432 miles - Same problem. car idles around 200rpm, shakes while accelerating, major lack of power:
Crankcase vent valve replaced, vacuum hoses replaced, car now starts leaking oil from back passenger side of valve cover. Valve gasket replaced. Smoke test passes.

10/21/2010 - 67,460 miles - Same problem. Car idles around 200rpm, shakes while accelerating, major lack of power, oil leaking from valve cover:
Valve gasket replaced again. Fuel injector #3 replaced. Power and idle issues stop.

12/9/2010 - 69,461 miles - Temperature sky rockets. Code 168 for Thermostat, 189 for insufficient heat output and 222 for o2 sensor not active, oil still leaking from back passenger side of valve cover:
Thermostat replaced, Engine cleaned.

12/15/2010 - 69,557 miles - Major Oil leak from back passenger side of valve cover:
Gasket replaced along with Cylinder Head Cover.

1/7/2011 - 70,450 miles - No more oil leak. Now Vanos oil line is leaking as is power steering fluid.

2/15/2011 - 72,106 miles - No oil leaks, belts start to squeal showing signs of coolant leak from thermostat or water pump. Codes for lean fuel and o2 sensor:
All belts replaced, thermostat replaced again, oil cap replaced, air filters, o2 sensor, synthetic oil change, oil filter all replaced.

3/4/2011 - 72,806 miles - Coolant leak again.
Water pump replaced.

8/4/2011 - 80,282 miles - Coolant leak again.
Water pump and thermostat replaced again.

8/20/2011 - 80,921 miles - Coolant leak again.
Coming from same place. Call mechanic. Mechanic is out of business.

It is now November and I still have a coolant leak coming from water pump, which requires about 2-3 cups of coolant each morning. This is the 3rd time I am having the same issue. Not to mention the belts squeal non stop now, due to having so much coolant leaked on to them.

Can someone please help me with what my options are at this point? This is the 1st used car I have purchased and the first BMW I have owned.
This is close the the worst issue I have ever dealt with in my life.

Total cost to date: $4,084.98 in maintenance.

What can I do? Contact a lawyer? Contact BMW to have another mechanic replace the parts under warranty? Sue the owner of the shop that went out of business? Contact BMW directly and tell them about this?
I am so lost right now, I just wish the car would go away.

Any help at all, is much much appreciated no matter how small the consideration.
Thank you so much.

TL;DR - I have spent over $4,000 in maintenance on my vehicle and the same problem keeps happening. What can I do?

Response From samg.

You wonder why he's out of business? haha

I doubt this was a dealer, I really doubt a bmw dealer would make you go through this much stuff. I bet it was a ind. shop. It sounds to me like maybe he went a bit crazy on the engine when he replaced the water pump with a grinder, seen it too many times. Or, though i'm not familiar with bmw engines specificly, I'd wonder if you don't have a water jacket leak. Are the water pumps on those acces belt drivin or timing belt drivin?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tons of bad luck. Was this a BMW dealership now out of biz? Read the warranty fine print but think you are screwed. Seems like this car had a serious overheat even before you got it and cracked pars.

Multiple replacements of same parts is nuts. There has to be a common denominator if legit and something missed OR tech wasn't wasting any time checking out why.

If whole shop is out of biz they probably owe everyone in the area too for something too - tons more than 4 grand but I can only guess.

Contact BMW and see what they say,

T

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

If this was a dealer, then the BMW might do something, it would be a long shot since they are independently owned...

I guess I misread the original post, I was under the impression this was an independent shop.....

Response From Hammer Time

You might want to contact the BMW zone office if this was a BMW dealer. They may have some leverage on the old dealer.

Response From Sidom

With the shop being out of business, there really isn't much you can do. All the warranties would be with that shop. Shops don't warranty other shops work.

I'm not a legal expert but even if there was some open avenue to purse on an out of business shop, if there is no money left, then getting a judgment would be a "hollow" victory and in the process you would've more than likely racked up way more in legal fees than what you are going after....

I don't have both sides so all I can go off of is what you posted.

In the future, it would be best to find a shop that is trained & tooled to work on your make. Some shops say they "work on everything" when in fact with some makes they are way in over their head.

Find a shop that is qualified to do Euro (they aren't going to be the cheapest). Talk to friends & co workers, see who they use & like. You can go to ase.com or iatn.net, they have shop locators you can look at. Any shop affiliated with these sites is at least attempting to better themselves & keep up with the times. You can check out the better business bureau.

Once you find someone you trust & does good work, stick with them. Keeping in mind that everyone has problems from time to time. Also sometimes other things will fail that has nothing to do with previous work.... A problem or 2 is no reason to fire a good shop BUT if it's a case of incompetence, then yes finding another shop would be in order...

Like I said I can only go off what you posted & don't have the whole story BUT my gut tells me, they were guessing on the driveability problem and have missed the real root of the coolant leak.....Just a guess.....

Good luck, hope this works out for you. Try not to dwell too much on this bad experience or throwing good money after bad. Chalk it up to a lesson learned, keeping mind that not everyone out there is a bad guy.

2002 Hyundai Accent won't start - Fuel pump

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From sancho on 2002 Hyundai Accent won't start - Fuel pump

Hi,

I apologise in advance for the wall of text but I want to make sure I put all the information here.

I think it's fair to say I've been having a fairly bad run of luck with my car and yesterday it finally happened, it died in a parking garage and I had to get it towed.

I've been having the problem for a while that my car will randomly decide not to start (it always cranks, but fails to ignite). It's always been completely random and will always start after a couple of minutes. The first time this ever happened was about 10 months ago, and it didn't happen again for a few months. The problem became more and more frequent and I took it to the mechanic.

Initially they said it was the oxygen sensor (my car was overfuelling pretty badly), so this was replaced. Then it happened again and I was told it was a faulty crank angle sensor.

So I had just had that replaced on Monday when yesterday my car wouldn't start, but the problem was slightly different in that it actually did start for a about a second and then immediately stalled. But I sat there for 4 hours while waiting for a specialist towing company that could remove my car from the low ceiling multi-storey parking garage and could not get it to start without immediately stalling.

Initially I had a roadside assistance mechanic looking at my car. He checked the spark and fuel injectors and eventually found that the fuel pump wasn't giving a reading.

So I eventually had my car towed to a garage where they told me that not only is the fuel pump dead, but that there's a problem with the wiring that will cause any future fuel pump to fail. So I have to get the entire fuel pump module replaced which they quote me $950 for since apparently it's a very expensive part. I've called around and gotten similar quotes.

I'm at the end of my tether and I've thrown so much money at this car (more than the car is worth at this point). I just wanted to get a second opinion on this before I commit to potentially throwing more money down the drain.

The other thing to note is that it seems my car's purge valve is stuck open. It took me a while to realise this was actually what was going on because I'd find that my car was idling very rough and stalling at low revs. My "cheap" fix was disconnecting the hose so that the purge valve is just sucking air. Could this be connected in any way or is it a completely separate problem?

My check engine light has never stayed on to indicate anything has ever been wrong with my car.

I really regret buying this car but I absolutely need it where I live just for basic day to day living. I'm just clueless at this point about what to do and whether I'm throwing money down the drain.

Thanks in advance.

Response From Discretesignals

The problem is is that we are not there to see or test systems on your vehicle. Very possible a fuel pump could cause your symptoms, but our advice is mostly based on the diagnostic information you give us, which there really isn't much of.

An o2 sensor usually doesn't cause a no start. What lead them to the fuel pump as the culprit? Did they have no fuel pressure, but had power and a ground to the pump? What is the problem with the wiring? Not much information to go on even in your wall of text.

Your check engine light will eventually come on for an Evap issue because of the purge valve issue. You don't want the purge valve sucking air because that is a vacuum leak that will make the engine run lean. If the valve is stuck open, it should be replaced. They are not that expensive or that hard to replace.

Response From sancho

Yes I wish I had a bit more information, unfortunately this is all I know at this point, next time I'll get to speak to someone is on Monday as this place is closed on weekends.

Apparently they were getting an error code for the o2 sensor, despite no CEL, and the car was running very rich before they replaced it. They just replaced it and said hopefully that'll sort out the starting problem.

With the fuel pump, all I know so far is that they found the fuel pump was shorting out, hinting that the age of the brittle wiring could be at fault. As for specifically how they tested the fuel pump I'm not sure. They just said that it was dead and that they could replace the pump but any new pump would also end up the same way due to whatever was causing the original pump to short.

They said that the only way to be sure that the shorting problem would be fixed would be to replace the entire fuel pump module.

Wish I had more info at this point but yeah.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Watching as I do. You need better help.
This "SHOTGUN FISHING IN A BARELL" approach is for amateurs not people you pay.
Read your own writing. Same O2 sensor? Well guess that wasn't it but the result of what was. Code would spit up if rich for another reason.
Now talking $950 with this approach! It's your $$ sport. True - wiring connections or failures are on the list so find where the failure is.


Your call,
T

Response From sancho

Okay just to update. I went looking for better help and I got a confirmation that the fuel pump is toast and they replaced the whole assembly for a lot less thank goodness. My car seems to be running okay now, and I'm coming to the conclusion that the purge valve problem was somehow related to the fuel pump issues.

They tested the purge valve and apparently it's working fine, no need for a replacement. This seemed really strange to me considering it had been stuck open for so long. But the hose is reconnected and so far, none of the problems I had before.

Apparently my fuel filter was totally full of junk even though I replaced it myself not too long ago. They recommended running a higher octane fuel (I've been on the cheap stuff).

The only problem now is that some new rattling has started up ever since. When the revs hit a certain point between 1000 and 2000 RPM, there's a loud rattling/ buzzing coming from the engine.

Have you got any idea where this could be coming from?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote you ">>They recommended running a higher octane fuel"
Higher octane is an anti-knock rating not a quality of the fuel rating so you know. It simply cost more to make than the lower octane this car should call for. It's best benefit IMO is it sells less so you are less apt to buy fuel when the "gas station" is getting fuel not needing the higher octane so it's not being mixed up with a rush of incoming fuel while you are pumping it. In short - don't buy fuel when the place is getting fuel as there's always junk in their tanks that is unfiltered when you buy it.
It's still not that common to be that fast to plug fuel filter or show evidence. Before it gets there, there's a pick up screen for the pump that now could be clogged despite a new fuel pump that seems like it was found at fault.
IDK - guess I might change out fuel filter again this time pour out from inlet end into clean glass and see what you are dealing with. This now IMO is possibly bad luck, not really anyone's direct fault and need to choose an approach.
If fuel pump now can't pick up thru a screen enough it will burn up a good one as they aren't meant to run dry and require fuel to keep them cool as well.
Seems you found better help and had some bad luck. Perhaps go back and pick a plan with them as I kinda think you are dealing with some debris in fuel,
T

Response From sancho

Yeah they seemed to be suggesting that the low octane fuel I was using could've been the ultimate cause.
That's great advice, thank you, I never even thought about the implications of the station getting fuel.
I'll give the fuel filter another check. Is there an easy to depressurize the fuel lines first? Last time I did it, I ended up spilling a bit on the back seat.
Do you think the vibrations could be a sign of the fuel system struggling?

Response From nickwarner

Yeah they seemed to be suggesting that the low octane fuel I was using could've been the ultimate cause.
That's great advice, thank you, I never even thought about the implications of the station getting fuel.
I'll give the fuel filter another check. Is there an easy to depressurize the fuel lines first? Last time I did it, I ended up spilling a bit on the back seat.
Do you think the vibrations could be a sign of the fuel system struggling?

Hyundai cars are not racing machines that need premium gas. In the US they run 87 octane from factory. Seems from your post that you have higher grades there than we do here.

Why are you getting gas spilled in your interior from changing a fuel filter that is under your car?

When a fueler truck is dropping fuel into a gas station's holding tank, it will stir up any crap that may be in the tank or may be coming from the tank of the truck. Were the tank to settle for a few hours the junk sinks to the bottom and no issues. But it is possible that if you were pumping fuel into your car at the time the crap in the store's tanks were disturbed some junk got through.

I even had a similar issue a month back on my own house. I use diesel in my furnace and had pumped 100 gallons into the tank. Furnace was running at the time, since it was the end of the year in Wisconsin and thus cold. The next day I woke up cold as hell. My furnace wouldn't work. The fuel line was plugged up with crap either agitated from my tank, from the truck tank or both . Had to unhook my line and blow compressed air back to the tank to restore flow to the furnace.

Car needs to not suck junk into itself the same as my house furnace does.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Depressurize fuel: Could w cold engine just purge at where you would check fuel pressure or loosen fuel filter perhaps out of harm's way.
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Again with the fuel thing: Without ethanol fuel would separate junk and water to the bottom about exactly like ordinary say Italian Salad Dressing does, the kind you would shake up first you see in those the oil in on the top, vinegars + whatever at the bottom being mostly water which is heavier and doesn't stay mixed.
Prior to use of Ethanol (worked a few gas stations) you put a paste on a long stick and checked how much junk/water was at the bottom and the paste turned a color to show how much. It could take a few inches then you called and that was pumped out. The companies were not adding water or junk it's just condensation and junk as fuel handling isn't a food truck and places
All attempts at places I worked tried to have more fuel delivered at night as it was handy and didn't get in the way for them or customers. In short it had time for junk to go back to the bottom lower than where it was being pumped from which was always the same spot higher than the bottom so is your car.
With about any alcohol the water is suspended longer or stays suspended with the junk so filtering it from the fuel stations about ceased as it would be clogging up constantly with mega thousands of gallons being run thru so leave it to the vehicles to deal with. Not nice IMO just a matter reality and practicality.
More: A tiny bit a water from condensation (same like you windshield is wet sometimes in the morning) is in the fuel tanks along the way is mixed in alcohols and of little harm unless way too much. The debris who knows what that is?
So, even with the flaw it's still rare and usually unintentional. Just avoid getting fuel when the place is if you know it. Could have been done a few minutes before you got there and you wouldn't know too.
The places that did use water separating filters where I am seen at the pumps Sunoco by name fuel would slow down or almost stop and an attendant would change the filter right then. Those days are gone and it's too bad.
The quality thing: Google it and it's still hard to understand. Octane is now a rating for how much pressure/heat fuel under compression can take before it ignites without spark or also called knock. The higher the # the less likely to pre ignite. It takes a higher % of the refined crude oil to make higher octane rated fuel so it cost more not because it's better for your car unless it's specified for you specific car. Said if only the price it doesn't sell as fast so deliveries don't fill that tank every time so your chances are better.
What a game. Hey - I live it too, we all do. It's not in anyone's best interest for the problems to happen.
Where I live each pump get checked for exact measure and a dated seal put on that pump. When I was working gas places the person used a clear gallon marked glass container which would have show debris and shut the place down if seen + never was.
Said, it's, VERY rare even now the way it is but totally possible. It may NOT be where you got fuel but from your own car or the prior failed fuel pump too!
What to do? I'm done with this now but on my own always dump old/used fuel filter out into a glass container just because I want to know what comes out that it caught. If anything at all would change it a couple times quickly till clear and forget it but it hasn't happened.
Cleaning of a system. Depends. If a new tank was cheap and easy I'd do that, check or replace a fuel pump and what got by a filter was just fine junk would probably clear out on it's own quickly if this was mine to fix. It has been with cars left for years and people bought them to bring back to life again always regretting that move.
If you could peg it the place you get fuel that others had the same problem they would pay for all of it.
You probably could use some help to know for sure and get out of this the proper way for situation at hand,


T

Response From sancho

Thanks Tom, that is really some great information and I had no idea about that potential problem. It makes perfect sense, it just never even crossed my mind. And funnily enough, the last time I filled up my car before it died on me, I actually recall seeing a fuel truck sat there. I'm wondering if that put my already failing fuel pump over the edge.

With the octanes, the only added bonus I can see is the 95 and 98 octane at my local station advertise they've got some additive which helps to clean the tank but I have no idea how that would actually help, it sounds a bit gimmicky.

I'm going to take out the fuel filter tomorrow and have a look, I'll let you know what I find.

The vibration it turns out, was actually caused by some extension to the air intake box that had been disconnected from its clip for some reason, so the loud rattle is gone now.

What I have noticed however is a loud clicking sound coming from the fuel pump/ tank. This is a new sound and it's worrying me. I took a recording of it because there's no way to accurately describe it. This is me starting my car, the cover to the fuel pump is off and the mic is right next to it. So you can hear the fuel pump whirring loudly and then a lot of tapping and clicking. Here's the link to the recording:

https://soundcloud.com/statebeats/fuel-pump-start

I honestly know very little about fuel pumps but it doesn't sound like something I should be hearing.

EDIT - I spoke to the mechanics again and voiced my concerns about the potential debris in the fuel tank and not wanting to take a risk with the new fuel pump but they assured me it wasn't bad enough for them to warrant cleaning/ replacing the tank otherwise they would have done it, and that I have nothing to worry about.

Sadly this doesn't really reduce my fuel pump anxiety right now haha.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I hear you with asking the station itself about it. No doubt instructed to shut up, say it's all check and fine if asked.
I wasn't at one now eons ago. So small place that if we were getting fuel just told the few customers - knew most all by name to come back later and WHY!
That was before Ethanol just tanks were huge of course, metal then (not now I hope) and under ground water at that place! Meant if empty they could try to float up or if tank which did finally rust thru leak ground water in!
The oil company owned the tanks the place was privately owned separately.
Fuel was not filtered then at that place. So, one day saw when finishing filling up a car the area near the flap early for unleaded fuel days showed something funny with the last bit.
Was clearly plain water much easier to deal with but no hesitation stopped selling fuel.
Low volume place and one newer BMW no less had an issue and got taken care of by the oil company out of our hands. Any others just some water removing additive worked and new tanks were installed in the ground now a state mandate that at "X" many years all must go no matter what.
Ages ago, unique situation and solved at once. No problem not selling fuel till fixed which was great as I was there to be a mechanic not a gas jockey - days when self serve didn't exist at all.
Back - do the "premium" grades have extra additive? I tried to find out and came up with nothing informative. Fuels were colored to identify them that's all I knew - so long ago doesn't matter.
Go ahead and try to find out from a big oil company - you'll get nowhere post the news if you do please post back,


Tom

Response From sancho

Okay so I checked the fuel filter, the fuel came out pretty clean, just some trace amounts of black sediment that settled to the bottom.

Then something happened. I filled my car up to the top, and sure enough a few minutes later it stalled on me. And at idle, the revs were dropping very low, close to stall.

This is what was happening way back when I hadn't had the car for too long. It started out with the car stalling and idling erratically after filling up with fuel. Then it advanced to stalling and idling erratically at other times too. This was eventually "fixed" just by me removing the hose from the purge valve.

So there's definitely a pattern here. It seems that the purge valve opens and sucks in fuel (or excessive vapors?) and this floods the engine. Before my fuel pump died, it got to the stage where the valve was open continually and this made it almost undriveable unless the hose was disconnected. I figured it was the purge valve that was faulty but it's not.

Response From Discretesignals

If the filter was full of trash, that would probably mean your tank is full of it too. If there are contaminates floating around in the bottom of the tank, your pump won't last long. Most of the vehicles that come in our shop for fuel pump changes get the tanks removed and cleaned out. Simple soap and water can be used to clean the tank out. #1 failure of replacement fuel pumps is trash in the tank taking them out. The strainer on the end of the pump doesn't really filter out the smaller stuff.

if the noise wasn't there till after they replaced the pump, you should take it back to them to see if they may have missed something or your pump is defective.

The owners manual tells you what octane you should be running in it. Most vehicles are designed to run on 87.