802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Fuel Filter

Choose a Year for your Pontiac 's Fuel Filter

  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 1999
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1973
  • 1971
  • 1970
  • 1969
  • 1967
  • 1966
  • 1965
  • 1963
  • 1960
  • 1959
  • 1958
  • 1955
  • 1953
  • 1952
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Bosch
    Bosch
  • Ecogard
    Ecogard
  • Forecast
    Forecast
  • Hastings
    Hastings
  • Interfil
    Interfil
  • Mahle
    Mahle
  • Premium Guard
    Premium Guard
  • Wix
    Wix

Best Selling Genuine Pontiac Fuel Filters

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Hastings, Premium Guard, ACDelco, Forecast, Interfil, Mahle
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Pontiac Replacement Fuel Filter Parts

We stock Fuel Filter parts for most Pontiac models, including Bonneville, Firebird, Grand Am, Grand Prix, Montana.

Hastings
1981 Pontiac Acadian Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 1.8L Hastings

P311-3E8CDC1    FF862  New

Qty:
$29.50
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • Fuel/Water Separator Spin-on with Threaded Port
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1981 - Pontiac Acadian Canada DIESEL L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1819
Hastings
1985 Pontiac Parisienne Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 4.3L Hastings

P311-5A49EFD    GF111  New

Qty:
$13.93
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 312
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Pontiac Parisienne V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
Hastings
1960 Pontiac Star Chief Fuel Filter 8 Cyl 6.4L Hastings

P311-2340F47    GF3  New

Qty:
$7.10
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • (w/o Hoses & Clamps) See Product Guide for Variations of This Number.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 480
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1960 - Pontiac Star Chief V 8 Cyl 6.4L 389 6376
Hastings
1994 Pontiac Bonneville Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 3.8L Hastings

P311-3DE820A    GF258  New

Qty:
$13.85
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 336
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Pontiac Bonneville L V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Hastings
1992 Pontiac Bonneville Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 3.8L Hastings

P311-13A9E12    GF246  New

Qty:
$14.45
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 96
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Pontiac Bonneville L V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Hastings
1999 Pontiac Montana Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 3.4L Hastings

P311-03D3BEE    GF340  New

Qty:
$14.19
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 336
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Pontiac Montana V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Hastings
2003 Pontiac Montana Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 3.4L Hastings

P311-03D3BEE    GF340  New

Qty:
$14.19
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • (w/1 Male End)
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 336
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Pontiac Montana V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Premium Guard
1991 Pontiac Optima Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 1.6L Premium Guard

P311-3207FE1    PF3144  New

LG-481 , PF3727 , UF511 , MF33144 , ALG-4481 , 86481 , F33144P , GF111 , QSG3727 , FGI-19 , XF33144 , FF-26 , CG3727 , G481 , G3727 , PF3144 , P550209 , BF853 , 15173334 , 043-0909 , GF481 , FG-851 , 95481 , GF481S , TG-18 , FF950 , G109 , 23481 , FF-481 , 3481 , GF1481 , FF3504 , F-3727 , 514 , GF-481 , 71042 , SG-25 , FE245 , V3481 , PG3727 , 73481 , GF13 , QF33144 , 6709 , F33144 , 23-3582-2 , VG14 , FF5026 , PFB3314 , MF 1000 , WG-481 , ESR3117 , 12-02546 , GG-46

Qty:
$4.45
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Pontiac Optima L 4 Cyl 1.6L 98 1606
Premium Guard
2004 Pontiac Bonneville Fuel Filter 8 Cyl 4.6L Premium Guard

P311-32DBB3C    PF4714  New

FF4508 , QF54714 , UF578 , ALG-4578 , 3311 , F54714P , G7315 , GF493 , GF1578 , FF-4714 , 516 , P552371 , XF54714 , FGI-26 , GF578 , F54714 , CG258 , GG-66 , MF54714 , G214 , MF 1001 , FF-67 , LG-578 , FF5503 , 95311 , 73311 , PF4714 , 5002-204354 , PF7315 , PFB5471 , 23311 , WG-578 , BF1171 , 25121293 , GF258 , VG33 , FG-1106 , 86311 , PG7315 , V3311 , G578

Qty:
$5.15
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Pontiac Bonneville V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Premium Guard
1996 Pontiac Trans Sport Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 3.4L Premium Guard

P311-50BF041    PF4702  New

GF1580 , 5002-204355 , 23-3466-0 , F64702P , G7603 , FF609 , VG30 , GF576 , P550504 , G580 , 3484 , PFB64702 , G215 , PF4702 , F64702 , 95484 , V4580 , 43484 , GF580 , 23484 , 517 , 86484 , GF246 , BF1045 , FF5673 , 15169849 , PF7333 , LG-8580 , MF 1008 , PG7333

Qty:
$5.61
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Pontiac Trans Sport V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
ACDelco
2010 Pontiac G5 Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-2BA21A1    W0133-1697924  New

Qty:
$97.22
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Pontiac G5
Forecast
2010 Pontiac G5 Fuel Filter Forecast

P311-19AFA26    W0133-1697924  New

Qty:
$50.90
Forecast Fuel Filter
Brand: Forecast
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Pontiac G5
Interfil
2003 Pontiac Grand Prix Fuel Filter Interfil

P311-1033951    W0133-1639997  New

Qty:
$17.45
Interfil Fuel Filter
Brand: Interfil
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Pontiac Grand Prix
ACDelco
2003 Pontiac Grand Prix Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-1FE80BA    W0133-1639997  New

Qty:
$32.92
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Pontiac Grand Prix
ACDelco
2003 Pontiac Grand Prix Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-1FE80BA    W0133-1639997  New

Qty:
$32.92
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Pontiac Grand Prix
ACDelco
1993 Pontiac Bonneville Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-0E3F576    W0133-1639896  New

Qty:
$38.45
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Pontiac Bonneville
Mahle
1987 Pontiac Firebird Fuel Filter Mahle

P311-0CB9C7B    W0133-1681829  New

Qty:
$25.97
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Pontiac Firebird
Interfil
1987 Pontiac Firebird Fuel Filter Interfil

P311-16A4568    W0133-1681829  New

Qty:
$14.46
Interfil Fuel Filter
Brand: Interfil
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Pontiac Firebird
Mahle
1990 Pontiac 6000 Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 2.5L Mahle

P311-0CB9C7B    W0133-1681829  New

Qty:
$25.97
  • with Spin-Off Type Filter
    (Thread Ends on Both Sides)
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Pontiac 6000 L 4 Cyl 2.5L 151 2474
Interfil
1990 Pontiac 6000 Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 2.5L Interfil

P311-16A4568    W0133-1681829  New

Qty:
$14.46
Interfil Fuel Filter
  • with Spin-Off Type Filter
    (Thread Ends on Both Sides)
Brand: Interfil
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Pontiac 6000 L 4 Cyl 2.5L 151 2474

Latest Pontiac Repair and Fuel Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

fuel filter wrench size 03 pontiac

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on fuel filter wrench size 03 pontiac

I want to change the fuel filter on a 03 grand prix and was wondering if the fuel line fittings are metric or standard threads and what size of flare nut wrench i need? thanks for any help

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Pretty sure it's 5/8". Could be wrong.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Either 5/8 or 16mm will work. The filter side is 20mm on some and 21mm on others.

pontiac t1000/Stalling issues

Showing 3 out of 16 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From Kellizle on pontiac t1000/Stalling issues

It stalls until I run it for a bit. first or second stop sign (depending on weather) Any adviace on trouble shooting?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Model year, engine size, any codes, what weather depending?

T

Response From Kellizle

1986 4c 1.6L. no trouble codes. Replaced the PcV valve, adjusted the choke screw. next cheap fix is the fuel filter but I have this feeling it has to do with the choke...

Edit: coldish weather takes longer ect.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hope pics show.......
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/aol/C7354/2/image/2/http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/additional-prod-images/en/US/aol/C7354/3/image/2/

That should show top and bottom with this carb off IF THE NON COMPUTER ONE as evidenced by just one wire going to the choke's black housing.
If more wires let me know.

First of two pics shows only 1 barrel requires the choke and shown it is shut or as it would be cold. If that is stuck wide open this would be hell to start and run lousy till warmed up a bit and real cold might not start at all - that's IF that top plate is stuck open. PLEASE DON'T GO ADJUSTING THINGS AS MOST IS PRESET so if something isn't working there's something to fix.

Hope that choke plate is just stuck. Use carb or throttle body cleaner with spray nozzle where it pivots and CAREFULLY free it up and any linkage found behind that black choke spring is what that is.

Go real easy on this as this carb is insanely expensive for the non computerized one and computerized one probably out values the car!

Choke when cold and throttle touched should snap shut. Once engine starts it will instantly open that plate a crack by a choke pull off or would flood out easily.

I'll stop describing maybes till I hear back on what moves or doesn't. You should be able to watch this with air cleaner removed and hoses plugged off if you start it to see operation -- that's just hoses that would be loose with air cleaner off. If it can set aside with them connected do it that way.

Again, not much is adjustable but rather cleanable and some requires some very detailed instructions to repair just parts to these or even access places to clean,

T

Response From Kellizle

It's a computerized one. A buddy that I work with was saying it was somthing with the choke, and if I didn't want to drop the money on the thermostat to just put in a manual choke.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Unless VERY clever FORGET the manual choke idea. Those black 'bi-metal' spring choke springs are pretty good and only electric about them is to heat it faster with that electric wire it will get hot enough to turn off without engine heat. Yup - a whole new choke spring is pricey but so is $500 or more bucks for this carb!

The problem with going manual is the step cam which raises idle speed for initial start up and graduated lower till it is on the fully warmed up idle speed.

The computer (loose term for this) control is or should be just a metering rod(s) in float bowl to stupidly attempt to be faster and more accurate than mechanically sensing how far up or down a silly tapered rod should be in a measured hole (jet) to allow proper fuel flow. Last carbs were an exercise in "Dumb and Dumber" with car makers struggling to design fuel delivery to meet emissions mostly and taking out mechanical judgement and worse is finding workers that actually had to know something to make new parts!

Trust me - I think this is lack of proper fuel while cold as you have suspected which is either a vacuum leak that HT suggested which is adding air into intake without regard to fuel or the choke isn't choking properly or not at all?

That time for cold start and the first 5 minutes or so IS a huge waste of fuel and fussy to get just right to meet emission requirements. Then when warm a choke is just dead weight, not used any more for running the thing.

Rule things out. Does the top choke 'butterfly' plate move at all -- engine off with throttle held part open it should move with your fingers and watch the rods and things move. Those get greasy, corroded or sticky from who knows so they make carb cleaner.

Go easy and careful but a vacuum leak can be about anything sealing off intake manifold from outside air. Base gasket of carb, intake gasket to head, any vacuum hose(s) that are cracked, missing or broken in some way and with carb cleaner (fire hazard so careful) and cooler idling engine just quick sprays at specific suspect areas will alter idle speed if leaking. JUST A TAD IF YOU DO THAT! It works for finding leaks but the spray is flammable so I have to suggest all caution for a flash fire. NOBODY IS HERE TO GET YOU HURT, BURNED, CUT OR ANYTHING so in doing whatever be ready or get help.

If this engine is basically healthy the carb can be fixed to work as intended or vacuum leaks if found fixed if not a cracked Major part.

Other: Any but more specifically this wants good PCV integrity. That means that "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" is to be slightly below atmospheric pressure or if not oily fumes will back up into air intake, gaskets leak all over the thing frequently at the age would be excessive "blow-by" of pressure passing the piston rings exceeding what the PCV can handle. If at that point and that is causing problems there's only so much faking it to buy some time and this car is done with unless it's some love affair and cost is no object.

Here to help and unless whole car is plain worn out this issue can be fixed but just fix it as it was intended to work,

T

Response From Kellizle

Okay. So last night I went to change the fuel filter (line borke.) But to my suprprise there wasn't a fuel filter in there. Am I wrong in thinking this could be my main issue?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pic again....
/
Inlet near lower left should be the only OE fuel filter TMK. It may have been deleted for an in line one. Now if line broke that's an issue on top of problems. If line flare nut stuck to line and twisted then broke or tell me/us how it broke. You can make up new line and a union between there and fuel pump at a good spot. Damn - now if this has been without any fuel filter it could be troubles. Don't let any debris from breaking the line get in at least for right now.

Fuel filter should be this.......
/
That should also have a spring too and if missing that will be hard to find. I'll actually go look and see if I have one you can have for the postage if so. For now get that line properly replaced with metal line that should be just sold with the flare nut at both ends of a line length of your choice and cut to length, bend as it was to a real union (ask for that specifically) not just clamp and rubber near anything hot or that can get rubbed on by moving anything!

Are you up to making up this line or you'll need some help. Some tools needed and you aren't going to diagnose anything till fuel supply is back in order,

T

Response From Kellizle Top Rated Answer

Thats exactly how it broke. right next to the fuel filter. The spring is missing. I'm looking online for a line but not sure what to look for.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I did look and don't have one left. Used to keep a longer and shorter filter housing on hand for these always if only damaged, dropped or lost somehow. Any Rochester carb with the similar housing in a junkyard would have that spring or take the whole thing as there's a near invisible probably nylon on most gasket at end of larger threads where they bottom out in the carb. I do have one of those. They WILL leak if that isn't there!

Happy hunting. You'll find what you need somewhere,

T

PS: May have a lapse off line - others here to assist as they can........

Response From Kellizle

Okay got the fuel line fixed. cleaned the carb. the choke flutters when I do a choke check, but does not close. everything else seems to work.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

When cold choke plate should be just snug closed (throttle tripping it) and pretty stuck when warmed up but not flapping away. Sounds like maybe choke spring inside that black housing or is something like a rod in this picture to mess this up? Some choke springs were a loop to center what they were moving unseen inside. Some housings (probably) were riveted and to replace you drilled those out and used self taping screws and the little butterfly things to secure it back in place.

Touchy stuff if you need to drill don't mess up. Drill the wrong way or hit the wrong parts you are screwed - no pun. If it can run well with choke off when warmed up but needs help (priming) when cold to just warm up then fix the choke. Watch out if you rig something to hold it steady that NOTHING falls into carb. Had a carpenter use a nail to hold one open that wouldn't and cost him an engine!

T

Response From Kellizle

Is that what would for lose terms, put the choke down. tinkering with it seems like theres nothing pushing it down. I pull on the throttel cable and and have to push down on the choke to get it to fall.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bear with me - going blind reading posts all over the place. That choke plate if not caught up in the "step" cam that holds idle up when cold should be free to move to extremes. Cold should spring to shut. Warmed up would be straight up or open - all this engine off.

Pivots, linkage or if plate is loose - anything messing it up is not right. Just gas, some oil fumes make things sticky on inside and who knows what junk can make things a mess on outside exposed parts. Inside the black choke spring housing can get messed up or broken. As said, it could be riveted on if you think that's where the trouble is. If already done or redone it would be screws but must be put back in proper place exactly.

I just think your best fix is a properly operating choke as intended. Kits to make them manual lack. Got the T-Shirt owning cars that, that had been done to and undid it back to the way it was.

When the design (loooong ago) was for manual choke only several things were different. Operator just had to know if, when, how long and how much choke action was needed by temperature of engine and weather. I'm off on a tangent now but the best theft control today would be to make those again as nobody would figure that out instantly in their head without searching the entire web on how we all did that without thinking.

There was nothing really wrong with carbs except that so many people messed with them or made random guess adjustments that you had to start over. The initial design was to behave and this one should and some of that parts if needed are a bit pricey for a carb and only you can decide on what to spend on what. Screwing it up will cost more and the car is old now all to factor in,

T

Response From Hammer Time

It's not the actual cause but it could have led to the actual cause by allowing dirt into a place that it was meant to protect.

Response From Hammer Time

A bad vacuum leak will give you the same symptoms.

89 Pontiac Grandam Fuel Problem?

Showing 4 out of 7 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From SillyBilly on 89 Pontiac Grandam Fuel Problem?

I have a 89 Pontiac Grandam 2 door with A/C, automatic Transmision. I had a problem with the vehicle not starting and trouble shooted down to the computer, so I replaced it and it ran fine for a few days. Now as long as I prime the throttle body with fuel directly it will not start. After I get it started, it will idol just fine for as long as there is fuel in the tank, but if I floor the gas pedal, it will fall on its face and die if you keep it at full throttle. I replaced the fuel regulator on the throttle body, the fuel filter, and the throttle body gasket, but still the same. I bought a fuel pressure tester but my lines are threaded and I can not get it to hook up, but at the fuel filter there is a lot of pressure when I crack it open, so just asuming fuel pump is ok. I here the pump kick on when I turn on the key so atleast that part of the pump is correct. Any tips?

Response From dave284

What about the injector/s and fuel filter,have you replaced any of these?

Response From SillyBilly

I have not replaced the injecter because looking at it, it is throwing an even spray of fuel, and there is only one fuel filter located at the rear underneath side of vehicle. At least thats what the book states, only one filter.

Response From SillyBilly

Still no succes on this matter,,, help please?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Get that fuel pressure tester to hook up and report pressures off (key on) and when running would help,

T

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Sorry guys I didn't see this thread and posted in the general forum as well.

I’m assuming this is a four cylinder because of you saying throttle body gasket and no fuel test port?
Regardless I think you should make sure of the fuel pressure; it’s hard to tell the difference between 5psi or 15psi which is approximately what a four cylinder needs to run properly.
There is a replacement fuel filter available that has a test port incorporated in the end. I get mine from a company called FMSI part #4261; nice easy way to test pressure without having to modify the fuel lines.
Here’s a link to there web site not sure if they’re in your area but there has to be another company out there that will have something simular?
http://www.fmsiinc.com/Default.htm

Dan.

Response From SillyBilly

Dan, Thanks for the filter tip, and I will check the pressure, because I guess five psi would make it run like that if it where a weak fuel pump. I will let ya know results asap.

Pontiac 6000, 3.1, 1990 - Engine Runs Rough

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From cliving on Pontiac 6000, 3.1, 1990 - Engine Runs Rough

It's basically missing and acts like EGR Valve problems, but I cleaned the EGR and no change. Every now and then it will take off and run great. It acts like water in the fuel, but I have run it enough now that I think it should have cleared. The check engine light is not on. Previous owner supposedly replaced plugs and wires. I'm wondering if the catalytic converter might be plugged. Any help would be appreciated.

Response From gripadog Top Rated Answer

It could be something as simple as a fuel filter.....I would start with making sure all the new plug wires are completely seated and try a fuel filter....hope that helps

Response From cliving

I didn't check all the plug wires. After I cleaned the EGR valve, I cleaned the throttle body and IAC valve and 02 sensor. That didn't help. Then I replaced the Throttle position sensor and that didn't help and I took it back and traded it in for an IAC valve. That did help. I drove it 3 times and it ran good, but the next day it was missing and running rough again. Since then it's been running good more than bad but it still throws fits. Also, ever since I changed the IAC I am now getting a check engine light where as I wasn't before. It's a code 33 which is MAF - excessive air flow. But that car does not have a MAF sensor. I was doing some research online and got a list of codes and probable causes and this one guy said it's MAP sensor, not MAF; which this car does have. I may change it out next. If that don't work it must be in the ignition sys or catalytic convertor.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

MAP is Manifold Actual Pressure which is vacuum. The manifold vacuum it a good indicator of the load on the engine and the car's computer will adjust things based on that info. If a converter is plugged it will alter the reading the MAP sensor gets and computer makes wrong adjustments. This can be diagnosed with a vacuum gauge put on a T inline to the manifold's actual vacuum.

Car's getting old so make sure all vacuum lines and connections are good. The codes can't tell you that a line is broken but lead you to that diagnosis.

Anytime an engine runs poorly for any reason the converter takes a hit and waiting can kill it and it wasn't the source of the problem,

T

Response From cliving

I went ahead and replaced the MAP Sensor but it didn't seem to help. I returned it to Autozone and they gave me my money back... they're pretty good about it. I'm not sure what to do next. I got to thinking about the cat, and it's probably not the problem... since the problem is intermitent... right? In otherwords it's either plugged or it's not... right? I'm wondering if the cranshaft position sensor could be the problem... aside from that I guess I will start looking at the DIS (distributorless ignition system). But, before I do anything else I believe I will go ahead and pull all the spark plugs, because a friend of mine told me he was using those hot spark plugs and one of them burnt the electrode of the end and gave similiar intermitent symptoms.... Frustrating!!!

Response From cliving

Well, I pulled the plugs and may have found the problem. Two of the plugs on the firewall side (hard side) had double the gap they're suppose to have. Also a connector on one of the plug wires stayed on the plug when I pulled the wire off; don't know if it was already broke or if I did it when I pulled the wire off. Also, one of the plugs was not tight. Anyway, I cleaned and regapped the plugs and put them in, fixed the wire, and the car ran great, and the check engine light is not even on now.....unbelievable!!! However, after the way it was acting before... intermitent problem... I'm not yet convinced it's fixed. As previously stated one of the reasons I didn't mess with the plugs is because they were just replaced not long ago... also I did pull one of them and it looked fine... also because I didn't think plugs and wire would give intermitent problems like that... and oh yeah, what about that check engine light? I guess what they say in the book is correct... don't assume anything and make sure all the basic stuff (plugs and wires, fuel filter, etc.) is ok before getting too deep in all that other stuff. Just thought I'd let you guys know, hoping the info helps you.

Response From cliving

Well... I spoke to soon. As good as it was running yesterday, today it started acting up again, and it's once again sporatic. It's not missing near as bad as it was originally though and the check engine light hasn't came back on. I went ahead and replaced all the plugs and wires tonight, but to no avail. I may try removing and testing the igintion module next... I don't know.

Response From cliving

Well, I'm still working on it (I was on vaction for awhile). Thought I had it fixed a couple times, but it's just that intermittent thing. Runs good and then it don't... no pattern.

I have been through all the sensors. Also tested fuel pressure. I had the ignition module checked at Autozone and it checked ok. I bought 1 new coil and tried it in each of the 3 coil positions, but that didn't help. I was about to pull the intake plenum an start checking the injectors, but decided to pull plug wires while it was running BAD, and low an behold 2 cylinders do not have spark and they are mates 2-5 coming out of the same coil. It just so happens that was the last position I tried the new coil and it's still in place (new coil for those two cylinders). I trying to find out if the crankshaft positon sensor would affect only 2 cylinders, as is the case with mine. I looked for loose or burnt wires and all look ok. I'm going to check and see if autozone can test the ECM (computer). What else can it be????

Chuck

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Plugs sure could make the engine run rough. They are difficult in the 3.1 and you'll see the back three are near impossible without tilting the engine - do that with car in neutral by the way. Plugs should be the exact plugs designed for the car. The days of covering problems with altering plugs kind of ended in the 70s.

A plugged or restricted cat conv is usually smooth about it. Lack of power and could be better when cold and worse when warmed up but smooth about it - that's usually. You can test for exhaust restriction by doing a vacuum test on actual manifold vacuum with a "T" in line. You should see about 18Hg vacuum at idle. Raise idle to a steady 2,000 and it should be about the same and if not that's an indication of exhaust restriction. Doesn't say what though. Vacuuum reading will spike up to like 21Hg or so when you quick raise the idle up and let go.

Converter can be diagnosed as a restriction by loosening exhaust parts before it for a test and if all is well it gets blamed. Trouble is it probably got killed and was not the source of the trouble and could just do it again.

Just some ideas I'm spitting out to pin this down. Check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner at suspect spots and idle should not change and if it does somethings leaking there. Watch out on hot parts and don't soak it as it can flash.

Another thing to root out secondary ign parts (plug wires coils etc.,) is using salt water sprayed on them and look for arcing. It shouldn't. Easy on hot stuff. Best with cool engine and with some darkness for that.

Just some ideas,

T

1984 Pontiac Fiero - Just Plain Quit

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From scroft on 1984 Pontiac Fiero - Just Plain Quit

I bought a barn fresh 1984 Pontiac Fiero that has been sitting for over ten years. New battery and it started right up. Driving it home and after 15 miles it sputtered and just plain quit and wouldn't start so I had it towed home.
I suspected and changed the fuel filter to no avail although it does start and idle roughly now, but step on accellerator and it dies. I plan on draining the gas tank and using fresh gas, but was hoping for any other suggestions.

Thank you kindly,

Steve...

Response From Discretesignals

Probably has low fuel pressure. Verify with a pressure gauge. When you go to drain the tank inspect the inside of it. Probably would be a good idea to replace the fuel pump while your at it.

Response From scroft Top Rated Answer

Thank you for the reply... I will do both... While I had the fuel filter off, I turned the key on which activates the fuel pump for a few seconds and I could see a good squirt of gas getting pumped out and during idle I can see steady stream of gas going into carb, but just touch the thottle and she dies.

Response From Discretesignals

Sitting for 10 years and I am sure the gas has turned to wine.

If your Fiero doesn't have a fire extinguisher in the trunk, make sure you get one.

Response From Hammer Time

I bought a barn fresh 1984 Pontiac Fiero that has been sitting for over ten years.

My condolences