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2011 Mini Cooper Fuel Filter Febi

P311-0C3C3D0    W0133-1820035  New

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Febi Fuel Filter
  • ; In Fuel Sender-Filter Assembly
  • In Tank
Brand: Febi
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Vehicle
2011 - Mini Cooper
Febi
2014 Mini Cooper Countryman Fuel Filter Febi

P311-0C3C3D0    W0133-1820035  New

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Febi Fuel Filter
  • ; Location-In Tank
Brand: Febi
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2014 - Mini Cooper Countryman Naturally Aspirated
Vaico
2002 Mini Cooper Fuel Filter Vaico

P311-028673B    W0133-1623384  New

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Vaico Fuel Filter
  • ; Production: 03/01/2002-, Prior to 3/2002 fuel filter only available with fuel level sensor
Brand: Vaico
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Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Mini Cooper Fr:03-01-02
Vaico
2004 Mini Cooper Fuel Filter Vaico

P311-028673B    W0133-1623384  New

Qty:
$36.61
Vaico Fuel Filter
Brand: Vaico
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2004 - Mini Cooper

Latest Mini Repair and Fuel Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Toyota mini van wont start when cold

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From tewrobert on Toyota mini van wont start when cold

I have a 92 toyota mini van that runs great, But its getting harder and harder to start with cold weather being the culprit, I mean I am in south alabama and if it only gets down to 50 now it just wont start, Before it would start but took several minutes, Now it have to get about 60 degree's to start, But after it starts its just like a new car.......
and today it just will not start at all, I am about half desperate, i dont mind buying parts but I sure dont want to start guessing at whats wrong......

Could this be something in a carburetated starter?
I am open to any ideas, thankyou in advance :)

Response From satyaseo

hey i am too facing the same problem thanx for asking asking before me.....

(edit - remove hyperlink, TomG)

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

A '92 Toyota should be fuel injected. (No carburetor). The fuel delivery is controlled by the computer via sensors.
A couple of things come to mind, here. 1) Poor fuel pressure, restricted or plugged fuel filter, or 2) Coolant temp sensor. If the spark plugs are old, replace them.
1) A cold engine needs more fuel than a warm one. If it isn't getting enough pressure on initial start up, it may require extended cranking. Check the fuel filter and have the pressure tested.
2) Again, being cold, it needs more fuel. Since you have no choke (it's injected), it relies on the information that the computer has via the coolant temp sensor. If the sensor is lying, and telling the computer it is 80F, it's not going to supply enough fuel for the cold engine. With that said, temp sensors usually default to -40F or so when they go bad, and this doesn't sound like a flooding condition. But you'll need to see what the computer is seeing, as in a scanner. You'll have two sensors; One for the temp guage and one for the computer. The one for the computer will have two wires going to it. The one for the guage will only have one. If you have an ohmmeter, you can measure resistance of the coolant temp sensor at varying temps and we can give you those specs if you need them.

89 ford aerostar eddie baur edition

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From unizen on 89 ford aerostar eddie baur edition

When van is driven,it stalls and starts up again. once in awhile it will completely stall, i start it again and it runs fine. I have replaced ignition coil, Ignition module, distribitor w/ pick up coil, fuel pump, fuel filter. the only thing i haven't replace is the EGR and I can't find that. I seriously need help on this.
Unizen

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a thought. I've had lots of troubles with the relays. Some stay broken some don't?? The two that can cause your trouble are the fuel pump relay and the engine control relay. They aren't that expensive even at a dealer.

If Ford is consistant with color coding the fuel will have green connector and the EEC will have brown if they not marked. They may be in a box under hood and marked. Good luck,

Response From unizen

Is there a way to test those two relays?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's kind of like fixing Christmas lights!! It's easier to just throw them out and the cost is not out of control. If you buy aftermarket ones they fit other devices. I won't leave home without a spare in my glovebox over these silly things that without conscience render you a pedestrian! Tom,

PS: if the problem is intermittent no test will be conclusive. If you are stuck, try tapping on them with the plastic end of a screwdriver, you may get home or to your destination.

Response From unizen Top Rated Answer

I replaced the fuel pump relay what does eec stand for? i also replaced the pcv. it stopped doing when i was driving it all day. it did however do it just once when i was pulling out of a gas station. I think that if this problem ever gets fixed, with all the money i have spent on it i might make it a new mini van ha!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

EEC stands for "Electronic Engine Control" if I'm not mistaken. There are so many abreviations it gets silly! Did you know (and I checked) there is a listing of abreviations and even one for that word! Abr. is the abreviation for itself!!!! Crazy world we live in, Be well,

Response From unizen

Tom I am in the cellular industry, we have a 22 page glossary of abr.
Anyways I'll keep ya update as to my progress with the van that eats my paycheck.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

LOL - I spent most of my time under a car. This computer stuff comes as I chiefly retired. For the longest time I thought MicroSoft was a guy problem that should be discussed with your PCP for the proper RX! (webmasters delete if I've crossed a line here)

On a serious note - if your are still having problems with the van shoot back and if need be I'll do my best to find the answers. Here to help,

Response From DanD

If your van has a 3Lt engine you can stop looking for an EGR valve it doesn’t have one.
With everything you have done, I’m not sure what to tell you other then by your description it sounds like fuel or the lack of.
If you can get your hands on a fuel pressure gauge, you could have it connected for your next trip out and see what the pressure is while the vans doing its thing. The pressure should stay between 30 and 45 psi.
Keep us informed of what you find.
Dan.

mazda mpv mini van wont start after problem

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From jflowersci on mazda mpv mini van wont start after problem

My 1992 mazda mpv v6 3.0 fuel injection and it just developed a problem. I make it a point to use Marathon gas which supposedly carries some stp gas additive it. I try keep it a 1/2 full or a little less. So recently after putting some gas in I also added a half a container of the small stp gas additive. When driving home I saw a clear patch of road and decided to punch the accelerator to try to clean out the system. My car accelerated and it took all took quite a bit to stop it. Even after pulling over and turning off the key and restarting it it raced. It was reving but never redlined.

Then after a couple of restarts it would only go very, very slow and I nursed it home driving no more than say 25 mph. Now I can't even start it and it seems like it's not receiving gas.
Is this a fuel problem or a transmission problem? I seen recently people driving older cars were having problems because of the gasoline and it was causing repair problems.
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Personal info deleted

Response From Discretesignals

Trying to think where you should start with this...hmmm.

Have you inspected the throttle body and throttle cable just to be sure you don't have a sticking throttle valve?

If the throttle is closed and doesn't stick open, your next order of business would be to spray some starting fluid into the engine to see if it will run on spray. You can also use propane if it is available. If it runs on spray, you should check fuel pressure. You'll have to plumb a gauge between the fuel filter and rail. It should be around 31-38 psi with 18-22 inches of vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator and 38-46psi with no vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator.

You can also check to see if there are any trouble codes stored in the engine controller. Near the left front fender in the engine bay there is a single wire green connector. With the ignition off, jump the green connector to ground. Turn the ignition on and the MIL lamp with flash any trouble codes stored. If the MIL light goes on and then stays off, there are no codes stored. The codes are two digit.

Let us know how you make out.

Response From jflowersci Top Rated Answer

Thank you very much for replying.

Unfortunately I am at a loss for most of the things you prescribed. Although I have some mechanical aptitude and my experience it is rather limited. I'm good for changing the air filter, the distributer cap and rotor and maybe a few smaller obvious items.

I have checked what I believe to be the throttle inside the engine compartment, a small cabled (size of a wire) semicircular device that I pulled by hand. It worked easily without hangup. I later sprayed it with wd 40 for good measure.

I have sprayed starting fluid and cleaner done the throat of my previous carburated vehicles but I'm at a loss where to spray fluid in the Fuel injection. Do you spray it down the plastic tunnel after the air filter?

As for the codes I have no reader and don't know what a mil is nor do I have access to a fuel pressure guage and wouldn't know where to hook it up anyway.

I decided to change the fuel filter as it seemed a logical thing to do and shouldn't hurt. I question if the fuel additives eat away at what may be paper filters. I also realize that this will introduce air into the fuel line. I assume this is not a big issue and perhaps this is where the starting fluid may come in handy. It's a bit hard to access the bottom line as it comes out of the filter so it will have to be cut and I can connect it to some additional line. I have not been able to acertain if the botton line is 5/16 or 3/8 inch. Neither the car parts store nor local Mazda dealer could tell me. I bought a foot of both. It's only 1/16 of a inch circumfrence difference. Would this be enough to make a big difference in performance?

Thank you again for the help. Any additional thoughts are appreciated.

Response From re-tired

Do not cut your fuel line . I would recommend that you take your vehicle to a garage and have it checked . You were smart enough to admit your lack of formal mechanics training. Follow thru and git to a shop .

GM 3400 misfires

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on GM 3400 misfires

I have a 98 Olds mini van with the trusty 3400 V6. The van just turned 180K but the motor has only 60K. I just replaced the head gasket 2500 miles ago, drove it 500+ miles over Memorial Day weekend, and today it stated acting up. It spits, sputters, jerks and then dies when driving down the road. It will start up again and idle but if I give it gas it misfires and dies. Sat there and scratched my head a few minutes and it started up and I drove home with no problem. Went out later and drove it, same thing. This time I took my fuel pressure gauge and OBD II code scanner. Fuel pressure is never under 40 psi and no codes to be scanned. I can't believe a computer controlled engine can run this bad and not throw a code. It reminds my of how my Bonneville ran when the crank sensor was bad but that spit out a code right away. Any suggestions?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

g huns; First, what type of a scanner are you using? Is it just a code puller? This vehicle has misfire detection and should be storing at least a misfire code and setting a check engine light if it's doing what it 'sounds like' from here. Do you have any valve train noise? Any overheating?
Fuel pressure spec is 41-47psi. If you are at 40psi, that's not enough. 40 is enough for it to 'run', but not enough to handle much of a demand. Just for grins, check/replace the fuel filter and retest.
Most parts stores will retrieved trouble codes for free. Post any codes you get and we can go from there.

Response From Guest

I have an OBDII scanner. It scans for regular code as well as misfires etc. I got none out of it. The service engine light has not come on at all.

Response From Guest

Just checked fuel pressure again. 38 psi at idle 36 under load. Unhooked the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and it jumps to 47 psi. Is this normal?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Yes; With the pressure regulator unplugged, it goes full rich. Your fuel pressure specs are too low.

94 S-10 Blazer loss of acceleration

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From Sam77 on 94 S-10 Blazer loss of acceleration

About 5 months ago I bought a 1994 S-10 Blazer with a 4.3L Vortec engine code W, 4 wheel drive, auto transmission with roughly 166,000 miles. It wouldn't start and after checking fuel pressure found out the fuel pump wasn't working. I went ahead and bought a new AC/Delco pump, pulsator, strainer, electrical connector w/pigtail, sending unit, dist. cap, rotor, plugs and wires, 2 fuel filters, changed engine oil and filter replaced the exhaust from the cat convertor back (old muffler and exhaust was rusted badly). Dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it out and installed the pump and sending unit. Put the tank back in the vehicle, installed one of the new fuel filters in the fuel line and put all the ignition stuff I bought in it. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and made sure everything was working. I had fuel to the pressure gauge at the schrader valve so it seemed I was ready to fire it up. I tried that and it wouldn't start. I had hot blue spark but no fuel was getting to the plugs. I read in my manual that any problems found with the CMFI unit the entire assembly should be replaced. Well I was short on cash so I pulled the upper plenum and took the unit out, sprayed carb cleaner in the poppet valves and rusty nasty smelling fuel came out. Used some air (low) and blew everything dry and reinstalled it. Put on a new plenum gasket and bolted everything back together. After everything was bolted down and electrical connectors were back together I got in turned the key and within a few cranks of the engine it fired up. I let it warm up while I cleaned up the shop and took it for a drive. Everything was working fine. Drove it everyday to work for just over 4,000 miles then one day on the way home on the highway going up a hill I noticed I was losing power. Never did die but I had to step lightly on the peddle. Anymore than that and the engine rpm's fell. I made it home and when the weekend came I took it back out to the shop and decided to do some testing. Didn't know about this forum but I had the repair manual.....heck I can fix this myself...yeah right. I read in the manual that if the fuel pressure didn't approach 61lbs. on acceleration that the pressure regulator on the CMFI unit was bad and it should be replaced and this past weekend I replaced it. Well after doing some further reading I found out that its a good idea to replace the fuel line assembly (nut kit). I didn't do that and I really didn't look over the plenum to see if there was any wash. Well it's still doing the same thing it was doing. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve and here is what I found out. With the key on/engine off and the fuel pump running I have 60lbs. as soon as the pump shuts off the pressure drops to 58lbs but within a couple seconds climbs back up to 60lbs. I turned the key off and let everything set for 10 minutes and the fuel pressure then was 58lbs. I started the engine and the pressure was between 51lbs. and 58lbs. (needle was fluttering back and forth). I increased the throttle to 2,000 rpm's and the pressure gauge needle flutters between 49 and 60lbs. Around 2500 rpm's and the engine starts to cut out, bog down or whatever. It won't throttle up anymore than that. It starts good and idles good and I can drive it in town but I can't take it out on the highway. I put a vacumn gauge on it and at idle it has 19 lbs/inches? and if I increase the throttle it increases to around 21 or 22 lbs/inches. I didn't pinch the return fuel line to see what would happen to the fuel pressure but I think I performed everything else. I'm really leaning towards replacing the fuel line assembly (nut kit) like I should have done when I replaced the CMFI unit. All the fuel pressure readings stay the same with the engine cold or when it's at operating temp. What do you guys think? Where should I go from here? Sure would appreciate any help you can give me. Sorry for the long winded post but I wanted you to know what all I've done.
Also wondering what would make the fuel pressure gauge needle flutter? Don't believe it's supposed to do that.
(hyper)

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

What does the fuel pressure look like with the vacuum disconnected at the pressure regulator? Should be stable, then. If the engine is running lean or rough, the vacuum will be unstable and that will affect the regulator. The Vortecs are know for the fuel feed lines leaking and also the poppet valves on the injectors. If the pressure is stable, although high, with the regulator disconnected, I'd at least 'try' cleaning the injectors/poppets. If you have the capability, I'd take a gas reading of the intake after sitting to see if you have a high CO/HC reading. That should tell you if you have a fuel 'leak'. We've 'fixed' many a poppet leak with cleaning. The "injector cleaner" in a can, IMO, is snake oil. I suppose it's okay for in-between cleanings, but have them cleaned professionally if everything else checks out.

Response From Sam77

Loren

Thank you for the reply and advice. I really do appreciate it.

Unfortunately the fuel pressure regulator is attached to the CPI unit under the plenum (upper intake manifold) and has no vacumn line to it so I can't do anything with it. The CPI itself has an electrical connector.
I just replaced the CPI unit so its brand new. The poppet valves also were attached to the CPI so they're new also.
The engine idles perfect and it runs great up to around 2500 rpm's and thats where it starts cutting out or bogging out. It's not hard to start nor does it die even if I hold the throttle pedal to the floor. Just no acceleration.
I went to the parts store and ordered a new fuel line assembly (nut kit..both intake and return lines inside the plenum that fasten onto the hard lines on the outside of the intake manifold) and also ordered the injector electrical connector and another plenum gasket.
I'm going to go ahead and install them and see what happens. Hopefully that will solve my problem.
If not then at least I will know that everything under the plenum (intake manifold) should be good to go.
I will post back here my findings on what happens when I get that done in the next day or two.
Thank you again for your help.

Sam

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sam - no harm intended but for goodness sakes try to separate your thoughts! I've never seen such a run on paragraph in web history!

Ok: Two bits out of all of this. The subject line and a vacuum reading.

22hg at a raised idle when 19hg was the baseline suggests your reading was a "venturi" effect vacuum port not 'manifold actual pressure' -- now get an actual vacuum reading and read it at 2,000 rpm held steady.

This smacks of a restricted exhaust or that you are working on it at about 1 to 2 thousand feet below sea level,

T

Response From Sam77 Top Rated Answer

Last night at the shop I took off the catalytic convertor and put a piece of straight pipe in its place. Here in my state we don't have vehicle inspections. You could hardly see through the convertor so I thought maybe that was the problem. Nope. Still starts and runs good up to a quarter throttle when it bogs down.
Took the vacumn gauge and hooked it up to the intake manifold and it holds steady in the normal range on the gauge at 19-20 hg. At 2,000 rpm is raises slightly to 21 or 22 hg.
Fuel pressure was the same numbers I posted earlier. Fuel pressure gauge needle is still fluttering too. Hooked the gauge up on my friends dodge mini van and it holds steady doesn't flutter so the gauge isn't at fault.
Don't really know what direction to turn now.
I guess I should have spent the money and let a shop check and fix it. Hindsight...I know.
Any other suggestions? It's the only vehicle I have to drive.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Sam; Don't know why I didn't suggest this earlier. It's not a normal symptom, but have you looked at the MAP readings? What if..the MAP isn't seeing a drop in vacuum when under load? I doubt that a TPS would cause this type of symptom, either, but at this point, I'd check it.

Response From Sam77

Loren
I didn't think of that either. Will do some reading in the repair manual and see what I have to do to check it out or get the readings. Worth a shot. Will let you know what I come up with. Thank you

Response From Sam77

I ended up taking my S-10 Blazer into a shop and have them fix it.

They found out that when the engine started to bog down that loud noises were coming from inside the fuel tank. They pulled the tank and along with a faulty fuel pump the inside of the tank was loaded with crap. All this combined to make my fuel pressure gauge needle flutter like wild. They told me when they had it hooked up to their machine that when they sprayed carb cleaner through the intake that the engine rpms increased and thats what led them to the gas tank and ultimately the fuel pump.
The pump was under warranty but I guess when the parts store asked about tank contamination the warranty went out the window. After a thorough tank cleaning and installation of a new pump and fuel filter its running like new.
I cleaned out the tank as best I could when I put the old (new) fuel pump in it but evidently I didn't do that good of a job. Only lasted a few months before the crap in there took out the pump.
Thought I would pass along what transpired to all of you. Thank you once again for all your advice.

Sam77

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Sam; Thanks so much for the reply. Let's keep our fingers crossed that the pump was the problem. I did have a similar situation, many years ago. We finally, out of desperation, pulled the fuel tank and found newspaper wrapped around the pickup. Turned out that the guy had run out of gas and used a rolled up newspaper as a funnel. Drove us nuts trying to find the culprit, but that took care of the problem. Good luck.

Response From Sam77

No problem Loren. There was alot of crud in the tank that evidently I didn't get out when I replaced the pump a few months ago but I didn't have much to work with like an auto shop does. She runs excellent!!!!
Took it for a 200 mile drive today and she never missed a beat. Way cool.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok The vacuum reading is probably ok just off by calibration but useful. It would be lower at 2,000 rpm with an exhaust restriction but really shouldn't ever be steady at 22Hg as that's a bit much. In fact with same test it should spike up there when a quick rev is done but not hold there normally. Air speed/the venturi effect can cause higher vacuum readings but I think you have the actual reading and the suspect item would have been the converter which you seem to have ruled out.

It does belong back in as it's part of the system and may be making improper adjustments with it missing - especially any post converter sensors.

I simply don't know what would be causing the fuel pressure fluctuations you mention and that probably is a source of the trouble,

T