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Bosch
1989 Eagle Medallion Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 2.2L Bosch - Gasoline Fuel Filter

P311-1B78234    71028  New

Qty:
$20.03
Bosch Fuel Filter
  • Gasoline Fuel Filter
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Eagle Medallion L 4 Cyl 2.2L 132 2163
Beck Arnley
1989 Eagle Medallion Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 2.2L Beck Arnley

P311-43DBFBF    043-0805  New

Qty:
$12.91
Beck Arnley Fuel Filter
  • FUEL FILTER
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Eagle Medallion L 4 Cyl 2.2L 132 2163
Hastings
1997 Eagle Talon Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Hastings

P311-1B0D146    GF309  New

Qty:
$22.78
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 336
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Eagle Talon L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Hastings
1991 Eagle 2000 GTX Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Hastings

P311-4F023E2    GF288  New

Qty:
$18.73
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • Universal In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 588
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Eagle 2000 GTX Canada V L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Hastings
1993 Eagle Vision Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 3.5L Hastings

P311-36803AD    GF285  New

Qty:
$16.04
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 588
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Eagle Vision V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3497
Hastings
1989 Eagle Summit Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 1.5L Hastings

P311-55C4B87    GF242  New

Qty:
$21.41
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 420
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Eagle Summit L 4 Cyl 1.5L 90 1468
Hastings
1988 Eagle Premier Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Hastings

P311-50C085E    GF173  New

Qty:
$12.24
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 288
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Eagle Premier V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2972
Hastings
1988 Eagle Medallion Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 2.2L Hastings

P311-0AB7FFD    GF139  New

Qty:
$21.93
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 240
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Eagle Medallion L 4 Cyl 2.2L 132 2163
Premium Guard
1988 Eagle Medallion Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 2.2L Premium Guard - Fuel Filter

P311-50CE468    PF146  New

Qty:
$7.99
Premium Guard Fuel Filter
  • Fuel Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Eagle Medallion L 4 Cyl 2.2L 132 2163
Premium Guard
1996 Eagle Summit Fuel Filter 4 Cyl 1.5L Premium Guard - Fuel Filter

P311-5A09D3F    PF4829  New

Qty:
$8.22
Premium Guard Fuel Filter
  • Fuel Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Eagle Summit L 4 Cyl 1.5L 90 1468

Latest Eagle Repair and Fuel Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1994 Eagle Vision High Idle & Stalls often

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From iceman1308 on 1994 Eagle Vision High Idle & Stalls often

1994 Eagle Vision esi 3.3L V-6 & 235K miles. Two problems: Not sure if it's related, but seemed to start after lots of snow got into air box while slamming drifts on the road. After initial start-up, it goes high idle (1500-2000 RPM) after 20-30 seconds & stays that way. I let go of brakes & it takes off! So...my brakes are shot.

Second, my car will just die after 8-10 miles. Almost clockwork when it dies. I crank over for 10 min & it fires up. Drive 8-10 miles & it dies. No error codes come up that I know of. I changed fuel pumps & fuel filter. Does the same thing. Any advice will be appreciated.....

Response From nickwarner

Look for vacuum leaks. Could've broken a hose hitting the drifts, and with the age of those hoses it was time anyhow. Get the computer scanned anyhow, sometimes you think its not showing any codes and it turns out the engine light bulb is just burned out.

Response From iceman1308 Top Rated Answer

The hoses were in rough shape, so i changed them a few months ago. Unfortunately, it didn't seem to help. I've heard people say it could be anything from a crank sensor not getting the cylinders synchronized to ignition issues. I guess there is a idle sensor too somewhere? Like most, i hate to bring it in to a shop to do a scan & blindly replace things charging me way more than the car is even worth, & still not fixing it. Thanks for the ideas.

engine troubleshooting

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From toolman0007 on engine troubleshooting

well now we continue. again 1991 eagle talon tsi with turbo. I have three things 1 best way to check coils 2 best way to check fuel injectors 3 there is a 6 wire plug from passenger side engine compartment looking towards driver side just under the intake inlet to the left. im not sure what it is but with the key on it makes a chattering or chirping noise. not sure if it meant to do that. problem i'm trying to solve. will start and idle but idle is not real smooth the min you start to throttle up it gets choppy and seems like one cylinder is badly skipping or miss firing. how about it guys any input and again the check engine light is not on will be checking for any stored codes

Response From Discretesignals

You need to figure out which cylinder is missing. That means you have to disable each cylinder one at a time to see if there is a difference in the running of the engine.

Response From toolman0007

this is something I totally understand. pulled each injector plug one at a time and buy what I observed tells me they are all working but to what extent . I also pulled one wire at a time from coil. all four are snapping and delivering spark. other things I have checked, compression all four cyl at 150, checked timing belt and all timing marks are where they should be. other things that are being dealt with. toasted battery factory fuel filter never changed and has 72000 on it. They have not driven this very much at all over the past few years. I am questioning fuel quality color is off not a varnish smell but one can tell it's old. i'm told two years old.I'm thinking more like three. a sample pumped out and set over night shows no sign of moisture or water build up. considering the tank not being kept full. something I haven't but will check. is plug wire order on the coils. seeking a obd1 scanner or analog volt meter so I can see if there are any codes present. not sure if this would work, like the 80 and 90 chevys. cross the #1 #12 pin and have the check engine light as a code reader or do the same with just a 12 volt bulb and not a meter ???

Response From Discretesignals

Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to drain the old fuel and see how the engine runs on fresh fuel.

Response From toolman0007 Top Rated Answer

yes I have already planed on dumping old fuel fuel filter .while i'm here is the fuel system on this a pressurized system the only time I get fuel is when it is cranking

Response From nickwarner

The fuel pump kicks in when the key is turned on for about 2 seconds. After that it comes on only when it gets a signal that the engine is cranking. If you're planning on draining the tank using the pump because you don't want to drain the tank by removing it then jump the load side of the fuel pump relay.

Response From toolman0007

well with the key on I get no fuel flow out the line at the rail at all. only when it is in crank mode . thanks for the tip on getting the tank empty but I have a pump I have all set up for doing that task.

Response From Hammer Time

That Eagle may not be programmed for a 2 second prime.

Response From nickwarner

You have spark, compression, timing and injector pulse. While codes are needed for sure I think you need to back up and look at the obvious thing you mentioned yourself. You have old junk gas. The ethanol they put in it has 1/4 the storage life of gasoline, and 2 years is too old even for pure gas. Dump out the fuel, change the filter, put a tank of fresh gas with a little bit of Seafoam in it for good measure and drive it a bit. I don't care what parts you put on it of how old or new any car is, everything on this earth will run like crap on two year old gas. It doesn't matter there isn't water in it, the stuff is garbage. Use it to light a bonfire, don't use it to run a car.

Response From Discretesignals

You really should have one thread on this subject instead of breaking each question down into other threads if the subjects are all related. There would be a lot less confusion.


Redirect link for original topic on check engine lamp:


http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?do=post_lock;redo=post_view_flat;so=ASC;sb=post_latest_reply;root_id=126754;post=126792;t=search_engine

RPM drop/stalling after letting go of accelerator pedal

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on RPM drop/stalling after letting go of accelerator pedal

Hello,

I hope that someone has an idea why the RPM drop very fast and go back up after letting go of the accelerator pedal. That isn't a problem when driving above 50mph but if I drive less than 30mph (like in the city or stop and go traffic) than the drop of RPM causes engine stalling since the drop starts at a lower RPM and goes below 400RPM (at which time the car is stalling).
I already know that it isn't the fuel filter, air filter, oxygen senor, and transmission filter. That got already replaced by me and two mechanics but still the same problem and none of the mechanics know whats wrong (gives no error codes). The problem shows up every few months and disappears again.

Car data:
Eagle Vision
1995
3.3L
83000 miles

I hope someone here is smarter than my two mechanics.
Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

You were right with the IAC. I replaced it and now I can even see the difference when I only turn the car on. No more rapid RPM movement and stalling.
Thanks a lot.

Response From Hammer Time

That's good. I would clean the throttle body also. It helps the IAC work properly.

1990 5.7 350 chevy RWD C1500

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Jonathan Gibson on 1990 5.7 350 chevy RWD C1500

I NEED HELP!!! My truck has a shake.. it runs smooth till you put it in drive. once you take off it shakes and acts like its choked out or restrained. and when you get in it hard it acts like it can't pick up or get the air or fuel it need and then shifts hard along with the hard shake... I have grate fuel pressure oil pressure and not over heating.. I've replaced the fuel filter under the frame rail new fuel injections and filters new plugs plug wires set timing new distributor cap new throttle positioning sensor the trans has been rebuilt new torque converter and all new fluids.. I'm at a lose here its driving me nuts I NEED HELP before I go broke and crazy

Response From Discretesignals

How many miles on this engine? You should first perform a compression check. Make sure the battery if fully charged, the distributor connector is unplugged, and you have the throttle wide open when you do your compression check. Write down your numbers and post them in here.

Response From Jonathan Gibson

the compression is good.. I just can't find why its acting smothered out could the o2 sensor make it do this?? or could it be the mass airflow or map??

Response From Discretesignals

So you tested the compression already? What numbers did you get?

Response From Jonathan Gibson

not sure on the numbers but the man I had look at it said compression and fuel pressure was vary good that it could be my throttle position sensor took it home and replaced it and same stuff

Response From Discretesignals

Just wondering because if you have compression problems, that will affect everything else. The fuel injection system on that engine relies on engine vacuum to calculate injection and ignition timing. If you have low or erratic manifold vacuum because of engine mechanical problems, you be chasing ghosts replacing sensors.

Response From Jonathan Gibson

if its a vacuum line wouldn't it cause the truck to rev faster or almost die??

Response From Discretesignals

A vacuum leak will probably cause high idle, but shouldn't cause it to die or bog on acceleration.


If you are sure you have good fuel pressure/volume and the engine is mechanically sound, testing for excessive back pressure would be something to check out. Does this have headers/dual exhaust or is it on manifold and Y pipe?

Response From Jonathan Gibson

yes I have a set of custom hooker headers that go into an x pipe then into to 44 flow masters that dump half bed

Response From Discretesignals

Cats are gone? Are there any other mods on this engine?

Response From Jonathan Gibson Top Rated Answer

high rise intake new rods valves rockers springs 292 thumper comp cam iron eagle crank and punched 30 over with a performance throttle body and 40 lb injectors I've done all of this last year and the truck ran like a sewing machine till three days ago

Response From Discretesignals

Could be a misfire causing your issue if it is shaking and lacks power. If you brake torque the engine, can you duplicate the misfire/shaking? With the big cam it is kind of hard to pick out misfires at idle. You could do a power balance test by disabling spark for each cylinder one at a time while the shaking is going on. The cylinder that doesn't make a difference is the one that is missing.

Eagle Vision won't start

Showing 5 out of 32 Posts | Show 27 Hidden Posts
Question From RoboDisko on Eagle Vision won't start

Summary:
- 1996 Eagle Vision
- Turn over but won't start
- Couldn't find spark
- Couldn't find fuel in cylinder
- No relevant error codes on EMC
- Read on for more details...

I'm pretty much brand new to vehicle repair, so this will probably be fairly easy. I am also fairly experienced with a multimeter and computer repair. Have a 1996 Eagle Vision Esi 3.5 liter with 146k miles that won't start. The engine spins fine when you try to start it, nothing.

I have been trying things for a while. I think I have concluded that there is no spark. (I removed the spark plug from the hole and connected it to it's cable, and grounded the side to a nice bare spot on the engine at night, and saw no cool sparks. I did this with multiple different spark plugs, and obviously while trying to start the engine).

I think the fuel injectors are also having issues, because I used my multimeter on both of the wires and couldn't find any significant voltage on either when the key was turned. I do know there is fuel in the fuel injector supply line, but I don't think it's making it to the cylinder. After attempting to start for like 5 seconds, I rather quickly removed a spark plug, and it was dry, although the cylinder smelled a bit like fuel. (I'm told they always do). I have uncovered the fuel pump and listened to it while the vehicle was attempted to be started, and it made a sound that I would assume is normal operation, and I also head a bit of liquid moving, so I assume it is working fine.

I did get an OBD2 reader, and the only code I got was related to exhaust, which I'm pretty sure has nothing to do with the engine not starting, because the catalac converter is missing and the check engine light was on before it stopped working.

I am suspicious of the timing belt because another form thread had similar issues and it was their problem. I am also suspicious of the crank and maybe the cam sensors, but I can't find them. I also should mention that anytime the key is on, the rpm meter goes to about 250 and stays there as long as the key is turned. Even if the starter is turning the engine at probably well above 250rpm, the meter stays the same (this further makes me suspicious of the crank sensor, I'm assuming it's in charge of rpm)


How did this happen? The car was driving normally, and was parked with nothing notable about when it was turned off. A few minutes later when I tried to start it, it started doing this. It has been a bit unpredictable about starting lately, It has had 2 periods(each lasting a few days or so) of time when it randomly wouldn't even turn the starter motor on when asked to do so. One of these times was fixed the same time the battery cables were, the other magically went away.

Ok so this IS my first time trying to repair a car. There are so many thing wrong that I can't help but think it is something rather simple(like a wire) that is causing many problems. I don't think the rpm meter, spark plugs, and fuel injectors all just spontaneously broke. So is there something obvious that is wrong with it? Or what would you suggest doing next? My dad (yea he is the one that broke it) plans on replacing the spark plugs and the fuel filter because these items have had a history of causing issues in this vehicle, which I don't think will hurt, but I don't think will fix it. It need that maintenance anyways, but it really needs the fix that will actually fix it.

Thank you for any information you can provide!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If someone can read that run on garbage more power to them - I can't,

AMC = AlMost Complete so what did you expect?

T

Response From RoboDisko

I simplified it for the simple of mind.

Response From Discretesignals

Just wanted to know if the ECU was powering up or not.

You stated you were checking for power at the injector, but didn't see any power. Did you check it without removing the injector connector?

I believe on this set up when the ASD relay is energized by the ECU power is sent to the injectors on the dark green/orange wires of the injectors and the ignition coil pack. The ASD relay is powered on for a couple of seconds when the ignition is first turned on and stays on when the ECU is detecting crank/cam sensor signals.

If you don't have power to the injectors or coil pack, you need to see if the ASD relay is being energized by the ECU and power is getting to the injectors and coil pack. If the relay is being energized by the ECU when you first turn the ignition on for a few seconds, you need to check the outputs of the cam and crank sensors while cranking the engine. The cam and crank sensors are both hall effect and can be checked with a lab scope.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok, updates for that last post:
After properly checking for power on the fuel injectors, I found it. I can also hear them making a normal working sounding sound. I also think that they are spraying fuel fine, because after turning the ignition on and off several times, one of the cylinders smell fairly strongly of fuel. Maybe the reason that the spark plugs aren't wet is because the injectors aren't spraying on them, or because compression is causing evaporation. Whatever the case, I THINK the fuel delivery system is delivering fuel.

I also noticed that when the engine was being started, that the voltage on the fuel injector seemed to be working as I would assume is normal (my multimeter give a bit laggy voltage reading, but it was quickly jumping and falling.) Also the ASD relay seemed to click normally when the ignition was first turned on.

So right now I think the lack of spark is the problem, but I could easily be wrong.
What next? I don't know where the cam or crank sensors are located at. A picture would be great, or detailed text would work. I don't have a "lab scope", but I do have a oscilloscope that sounds like it performs a similar function.

Response From RoboDisko

Updates:
After a ton of looking on the internet and looking at the engine, I found the crank shaft position sensor. I think it's broken. With my mutlimeter on ground and signal of the sensor, the voltage was like .03V and went unaffected by a magnet. Anouther thing I found interesting, the voltage supply for the sensor was at 8.81V. Isn't it supposed to be either very near to 5v or 8v? 8.81V is almost a whole extra volt. Is the ECU having voltage control issues?

So shall I replace the crank shaft position sensor and see what happens?

Response From Discretesignals

The power supply voltage to the sensor does state 5 volts, but it could be wrong. I've seen 5,8,10, and 12 used to power those hall effects. If you don't see a digital signal coming from it while cranking the engine, and you have good power and ground to the sensor, it is possible it is the culprit.

I've used a soldering iron...the ones with the trigger to see if the sensor would activate. Sometimes using that is inconclusive though. I've seen a bad sensor trigger from the electromagnet field from the solder gun, but wouldn't trigger when the interrupter passed through it.

if you have a scope that is the ideal tool to use to check it. Connect your probe to the signal circuit and look for a digital signal while cranking the engine.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok, I did buy a new crank sensor, but when I got home it was pouring rain, I installed it anyways, but it didn't start when I tried it. Sure I couldn't even hear the engine over the rain (I could feel it), but it didn't start instantly. I'll work on it some more when it's not pouring rain.

Response From RoboDisko Top Rated Answer

With the new one installed there is still no spark. What should I try next?

Response From RoboDisko

I finally found some more time to work on the car. I was planning on hooking up the oscilloscope to the crank sensor output, but as I was going for the wire, I noticed something I had previously missed; the coil wasn't plugged in. Apparently, when I was installing the crank sensor In the pouring rain I had missed that little detail. After being plugged in, started up just fine, apart from some bad smelling smoke. So the problem was the crank sensor. I have a few more questions though. I noticed that the sensor was getting 8.83V, and I heard It was supposed to get 5v. Is this possibly the cause of the last sensor breaking? Should I be concerned that the new crank sensor is going to break because of the excess voltage?

Also, my dad said that the car has a head gasket issue. The issues mostly entails a bit of oil leaking into the cylinders, but mostly just 1 of the cylinders. He said that he planned on going the avoid repair route, and instead just top of the oil and frequently replace the spark plugs more frequently than normal. I think he has been doing this for several years. What do you guys think? Is the head gasket worth replacing? Would someone like me, who likes building robots and electric go carts, but that fixing this car was the first thing I've fixed on a combustion engine, be able to do a repair like that? Or is the repair even worth the time?

Response From Hammer Time

I seriously doubt that is a head gasket causing the oil consumption. How did he come up with that conclusion?

Response From RoboDisko

I made the oil consumption sound worse then it is. He just has to occasionally check and top off the oil. I don't know where he came up with that conclusion, but I'm guessing a mechanic told it to him because I don't know who else would.

And I'll check the crank sensor voltage again.

Response From RoboDisko

The crank sensor running voltage is about 8.24V.

I haven't taken the vehicle for a drive yet, because it desperately needs an oil change and some coolant. After running for about 5 minutes at idle, the coolant tempature hit 90C (measured with OBDII), and the dripping wet radiator started "smoking" (I think it was actually steam) where the coolant comes into it, so i turned it off.

Do you think that running voltage will give future issues? And do you think a head gasket replacement is worth the effort, or even do-able by me?

Response From Hammer Time

Again, your oil consumption is not caused by a bad head gasket. There is some other reason like rings or valve seals. I don't know how anyone could have come to the conclusion the head gasket caused that. There is no test that could confirm or indicate that unless he physically sees oil leaking externally from the head gasket.

Response From RoboDisko

Ok I just talked to him about it. He says he came to the conclusion because oil was leaking into the cylinder, and he says the only possible cause is the head gasket. Wikipedia seems to support that the head gasket can cause oil to leak into the engine:
Its purpose is to seal the cylinders to ensure maximum compression and avoid leakage of coolant or engine oil into the cylinders
Anyways, you guys are the experts. I know there is oil getting into the cylinder, because when I replaced the spark plug, the tube that goes down to it had a decent amount of oil (presumably worked into in on the countless attempts to start the engine in which it would not start.) So what do you think is the cause of the oil leaking into the cylinder is?

Response From Hammer Time

Ok I just talked to him about it. He says he came to the conclusion because oil was leaking into the cylinder, and he says the only possible cause is the head gasket. Wikipedia seems to support that the head gasket can cause oil to leak into the engine:
Its purpose is to seal the cylinders to ensure maximum compression and avoid leakage of coolant or engine oil into the cylinders
Anyways, you guys are the experts. I know there is oil getting into the cylinder, because when I replaced the spark plug, the tube that goes down to it had a decent amount of oil (presumably worked into in on the countless attempts to start the engine in which it would not start.) So what do you think is the cause of the oil leaking into the cylinder is?



You have no idea how stupid that whole statement was.

THE VALVE COVER IS LEAKING!!!

Response From RoboDisko

Ok fine that was stupid. I know I dint know much about engines. What is the difficulty of repair of a valve cover?

Response From nickwarner

Valve cover gasket isn't very difficult. Just unbolt the valve cover to get it off, thoroughly clean all contact surfaces on the engine and valve cover and install back together with the new gasket. You have a perimeter gasket going around the outer edge and individual ring gaskets for where each spark plug wire passes through the valve cover. Those are what is leaking, a head gasket is a completely different entity altogether. Head gaskets are very deep, expensive and skilled engine repair.

To put the comparison in your electronic repair perspective, it would be like me telling you how I needed a capacitor replaced when I actually needed a resistor. Or like telling you I need a new hard drive because my mouse doesn't work when all thats wrong is the battery in the mouse is dead.

With automotive repair, just like electronics, using the proper terminology will either clarify or confuse the person you are speaking to.

If you need to find some procedures with a few diagrams or pics to get a better idea about how to change that valve cover gasket, set up a username at autozone.com. they have free online vehicle repair guides that might clarify how to do the job.

Response From Hammer Time

The intake has to come off on this one Nick.

Response From nickwarner

Thats right, 3.5 engine. Yeah, I'd let a shop do that one.

Response From RoboDisko

Well I don't think the repair is worth the time.

Anyways, Thank You all for your great help. I've been working on getting the vehicle to run well. I did get it 0-60 in 10 seconds, so there is room for improvement there.

I still have a few issues, most notably the blinkers are broken. That is enough of a different subject to start a new thread, so I did. And any future question I have about this vehicle will be posted there as well.
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Electrical_and_Wiring_F6/gforum.cgi?post=148438;t=search_engine#148438

Again, Thank You!

Response From Hammer Time

It's two and a half hours of flat rate time and moderately difficult. Judging by some of the things you have said here, I wouldn't recommend it for you.


  • Service and Repair
    1. Remove air cleaner assembly and intake manifold plenum as outlined under ``Intake Manifold, Replace.''
    2. Cover lower intake manifold during service.
    3. Disconnect and relocate spark plug wires.
    4. Loosen A/C compressor mounting bracket and pull away from cylinder head.
    5. Remove spark plug tube nut and O-ring.
    6. Remove rocker cover screws and remove cover.
    7. Reverse procedure to install.

    Response From RoboDisko

    Would replacing the valve cover benefit anything except the oil being burned? Like would it run better or get better fuel economy?

    Response From Hammer Time

    No, not at all. It's to stop the oil leak only, although the oil leaking into the spark plug hole will damage the rubber plug wire..

    Response From Discretesignals

    I have a few more questions though. I noticed that the sensor was getting 8.83V, and I heard It was supposed to get 5v. Is this possibly the cause of the last sensor breaking? Should I be concerned that the new crank sensor is going to break because of the excess voltage?

    Really don't think that 8.83V will fry the crank sensor. Have you checked the supply voltage to it now that it is running? The crank sensor and the cam sensor share the same power circuit, so you can check the supply voltage at the cam sensor also. Make sure that your meter has at least 10M ohms of impedance when checking automotive circuits.

    Response From Double J


    Have you checked the Timing Belt?

    Before you jump thru too many hoops,
    Take one of the timing covers loose at the top and peek in there while someone tries to start the car,
    See if the cams are turning?

    Response From Double J


    The engine spins fine when you try to start it, nothing.
    All i'm saying is since WE here can't hear how the engine sounds it may be the timing belt
    Easy enough to check before he jumps thru too many hoops

    Response From Discretesignals

    Your right DJ, he should first check to make sure the timing belt is ok and the cams and crank are in synch. I figured the OP knew how to check hall effects and has an O scope, so I was hoping to make his job a little easier.

    You can check it without removing the covers, by using a DSO and looking at the cam and crank sensor waveform patterns. I got access to a 3.5L CKP and CMP known good waveform, so you have a reference. But having no CKP activity makes that test useless.

    If not, cover removal is your only option, unless you do a compression test, but as stated you should still have CKP activity if the belt came apart or you have some other mechanical timing related issue going on.

    Response From Discretesignals

    Even if the timing belt snapped, it should still generate a crank signal though.

    Watch this video on how to test a crank sensor( the prefered method is with an O scope):


    Response From Hammer Time

    Even if the timing belt snapped, it should still generate a crank signal though.


    I don't think it's been determined that it isn't generating a crank signal.

    Response From Discretesignals

    Check engine light come on when you turn the key on? Have you checked for trouble codes stored in the ECU?

    Response From RoboDisko

    I thought it was fairly well written, I mean would you rather I didn't include details? And I guess I didn't use very good terminology either...

    When the key is turned the check engine light turns on. When my obd2 reader was plugged in it was blinking, not sure if it does that when it's not plugged in. As I said the only error code stored on the system was related to exhaust, which is probably because it has no catalac converter, and completely unrelated to the fact it won't start.