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Hengst
1999 BMW 318is Fuel Filter Hengst

P311-3444A3F    W0133-1630304  New

Qty:
$18.60
Hengst Fuel Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - BMW 318is
Hengst
1994 BMW 325i Fuel Filter Hengst

P311-3444A3F    W0133-1630304  New

Qty:
$18.60
Hengst Fuel Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/1994-
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1994 - BMW 325i Fr:09-00-94
Hengst
1994 BMW M3 Fuel Filter Hengst

P311-3444A3F    W0133-1630304  New

Qty:
$18.60
Hengst Fuel Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/01/1994-
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1994 - BMW M3 Fr:09-01-94
Hengst
1995 BMW 540i Fuel Filter Hengst

P311-3444A3F    W0133-1630304  New

Qty:
$18.60
Hengst Fuel Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 05/01/1995-
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1995 - BMW 540i Fr:05-01-95
Hengst
1998 BMW 740iL Fuel Filter Hengst

P311-3444A3F    W0133-1630304  New

Qty:
$18.60
Hengst Fuel Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/31/1998
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - BMW 740iL To:08-31-98
Hengst
1994 BMW 840Ci Fuel Filter Hengst

P311-3444A3F    W0133-1630304  New

Qty:
$18.60
Hengst Fuel Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/1994-
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1994 - BMW 840Ci Fr:03-00-94
Mann-Filter
2011 BMW X5 Fuel Filter Mann-Filter

P311-5401CBE    W0133-1847718  New

Qty:
$60.23
Mann-Filter Fuel Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Cartridge only. Does not include the heating element.
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2011 - BMW X5 DIESEL
Mahle
2012 BMW X5 Fuel Filter Mahle

P311-3FD285D    W0133-1847718  New

Qty:
$61.90
Mahle Fuel Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Cartridge only. Does not include the heating element.
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2012 - BMW X5 DIESEL
Hastings
1971 BMW 3.0CSL Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Hastings

P311-4AD6425    GF2  New

Qty:
$6.38
Hastings Fuel Filter
  • In-Line Fuel Filter with Clamps and Hoses
  • (w/Hoses & Clamps) See Product Guide for Variations of This Number.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 480
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1971 - BMW 3.0CSL L 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2985
Premium Guard
1995 BMW M3 Fuel Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Premium Guard - Fuel Filter

P311-50CE468    PF146  New

Qty:
$7.99
Premium Guard Fuel Filter
  • Fuel Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - BMW M3 L 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2990

Latest Bmw Repair and Fuel Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

BMW 325i died in traffic, wouldn't start again

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From poppy2 on BMW 325i died in traffic, wouldn't start again

Hi,

I am trying to figure out what is going on w/ my car. 2003 BMW 325i. It just died in traffic yesterday with zero warning. I just had the alternator replaced 3 weeks ago. When I tried to restart, there was NO response at all. Didn't turn over, no clicks nothing - just dead. I had it towed to a repair shop, now today I am told it is starting (and re-starting) fine.

What could possibly cause this problem? My two ideas are, bad replacement alternator (it was used)... or dirty fuel filter (but that wouldn't explain NO response when trying to start - I figure if it was a dirty fuel filter, then at least it would attempt to turn over?)

Or something else altogher - a bad fuse? Bad wiring?

I am happy that's it working now, but makes me nervous for the future.

HELP!

Response From chickenhouse

Well, you could take the alt. off and have it tested just to make sure it's ok, some parts houses check these for free. Could also check battery cables to make sure they are clean and also the ground connections. A place to start.

Response From poppy2 Top Rated Answer

Hi chickenhouse,

Thanks for the response. Will do as you suggest.

I have a question... does the battery need to be working WHILE the car is already running? Just trying to understand why a car would die out of the blue for no apparent reason. Like, if the battery is bad or if the cable connection is corroded, could that actually cause a car to stop dead in it's tracks??? (even if it was running fine JUST before that?)

Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

The car needs voltage to run. It can get that from either the alternator or the battery but if the alternator fails while your driving it, the battery will eventually follow and the car will die.

Response From chickenhouse

Some of the older cars, a battery cable could be taken off while the engine was running, but I don't think I'd try that on a beemer. They have different ideas concerning wiring.

1991 bmw 325i engine has no power?

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From dmyankeeme on 1991 bmw 325i engine has no power?

i have no power car starts on first turn of the key. it is a 6 cylender.
idel is at 1000rpm seems a little high, but this is my first bmw. it has no power, you have to floor it to get up to speed. i did a compression check all cylenders have 100 psi.it doesent smoke, does not leak anything, no water in oil and no oil in water. took cat converter. off to see if their was a restriction but car runs the same.no power please help.

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

To start a tune-up thats with fuel filter, next when you say no power thats means the motor weak or that the engine revs high and it take time to build up speed cause it sounds like trans slipping some what

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To add a thought: If this has nice even compression of just 100psi and exhaust restriction is ruled out it suggests valve timing is off. Bet you'd also find low manifold vacuum at idle also which further suggests the valve timing??

T

99 BMW 323i losing power to engine

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From thereign83 on 99 BMW 323i losing power to engine

I need help because I cannot figure out whats going on with my BMW. I have a 1999 BMW 323i four door sedan that is losing power to the engine, when I first crank up my car it works perfectly fine, when I crank it up for a second time in a short time span it cranks up then loses power as soon as I either step on the brake or decelerate, if I crank it up for a third time in a short time span it won't crank up at all, it just rolls over. When I let it sit for a couple hours afterwards it cranks up fine with no issues. I have a new batter and I've also have a new alternator, so the vehicle is getting power just fine, engine just dies.

If anyone has any ideas as to why the engine would lose power when cranking it up multiple times in a short time span please share. Is it an electronic issue with a relay? Or is it possibly the starter going bad?

Response From nickwarner

If the starter was bad it wouldn't turn over. It seems like your engine is turning over at the proper speed but not able to stay running. You should have trouble codes stored in the ECM. Get them scanned and post the exact code numbers here.

Check fuel pressure, it sounds like you may have a fuel starvation issue. When was the last time you changed the filter?

Response From thereign83

I haven't changed my gas filter since I've had my car, It also might be the fuel pump relay.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

You need to verify fuel pressure first. if you suspect a relay you would need to backprobe it while running to see if it is cutting out and allowing a pressure drop.

If you have never changed the fuel filter, do it now. I change mine once a year.

reference for aftermarket pipe thread inline fuel filters

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From archibald tuttle on reference for aftermarket pipe thread inline fuel filters

I use aftermarket electric fuel pumps in numerous applications. they often come with a pipe threaded inline filter that may be male pipe thread on one end and female on the other male pipe thread on one end and a barbed tube on the other to accept rubber hose directly.

because these are not original equipment applications i never can figure out how to find a reference for the variety of replacement filters that might be available -- because i'm looking for a reference that would refer to maybe the filter diameter and length and the piping configuration for the inlet and outlet rather than a reference that would yield a part number using the make, model and model year of the vehicle.

if anyone has had any experience ordering these filters or can point to a good reference i'd appreciate it.

brian

Response From Hammer Time

That is nort something you should even be doing in automotive applications.

Response From archibald tuttle


these are aftermarket electric fuel pumps regularly sold for automotive applications which is why i thought folks who knock around automotive repair might have something to offer?

i use them on various equipment to replace physical lift pumps and as priming pumps for diesels so i don't have to crank the engines to prime with the physical lift pumps, so the vast majority of my applications are industrial.

yeah the high pressure fuel injection pumps that are engineered and wired application specific into fuel injected autos will have inertial defeat or other cautions so they don't keep pumping in case of accident. i will use them occasionally to get out of a pinch with older automotive applications, but generally and presently that is not my application.

the same type of filters i'm looking for used to be used as a secondary filter at the inlet of ford carbs.

although, as i said, i might like to consider a little bit larger daimeter filter as well.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not for permanent Automotive use. Have these for fuel transfer plus the fuel is filtered in doing so as well. Lower pressure as for carbs. You'll find the filters for carbed Fords of the 60's into 70s with the threads you want/need. I think you'll see both 3/16th NPT and maybe 1/4 NPT for threads. By sight match up what you need. BTW - NPT = Plumbing threaded so don't use Teflon tape and shouldn't need to.


My own use of these is to empty fuel from seasonal equipment and run them dry mostly and a in line diaphragm pumps do not mind running dry.


AYOR always when fussing with fuel and an electric something.


Filters: Try now NAPA especially if you have an old one to match up. The threaded things to barbed stuff also at auto parts or hardware stores but use only brass and only marked fuel/PCV marked fuel line and SS worm clamps as needed. If unsure know that SS (stainless steel) will not pick up with a magnet! Cheap crap will.
Hey: Never found a ready to use pump for fuel transfer and there must be so made one up like you did. Yes you can use a plain larger Ford non threaded fuel filter found on the wall in a blister pack and hose clamps not threaded as said if you wish to filter more or have them last longer.


IDK and you tell me if diesel runs thru a gas intended filter? Ask upon purchase if known or listed. As said my own use is to empty things and use a portable 12v jumper box for power - don't ask!


More: Home centers will have oily transfer drill pumps you can rig up too for oil or oily things. Not tested for fuels or oils yet by me but claims are stated on them. Those must be wet all the time or burn out at once! Cheap - $11US or so for that type.


Non electric. Ask again for suction pump much like a hand grease gun looking thing. When filled acts as a pressure pump as well. No filter but can do your priming tricks for whatevers too and or draw oil out of dipstick tubes and such of things you can't turn over or drain otherwise.
Generators, seasonal yard/farm machines, engine powered pumps and so on,


T

Response From archibald tuttle

tom,

thanks for your note. i can't get anybody who knows which way is up at Fram until monday. I'm out of pocket and out of cell service so i can't get my regular parts house which has helped me track this down in the past and relate these configurations to part numbers and crossovers between manufacturers (and admittedly i should have recorded options and parts numbers then). But enjoy coming out to forums and talking to folks about workin' on iron.

The standard filters that come supplied with the electric fuel pumps do indeed pass diesel, well did anyway for a couple of years. i'm getting poor delivery at the moment and want to get both the spin on cartridge fuel filter that fits the mount provided by manufacturer as principle fuel filter and a replacement for this inline addition i made when i added the priming pump so i can replace both when i crack the fuel system.

For many diesels a low pressure electric lift addition is a godsend that helps limit air entering into the fuel system. So I usually add an electric transfer pump at the exit from the fuel tank (which thankfully is on the bottom on most equipment so there is no lift before this first pump vastly lessening the chance of sucking air.

on the EFI gas service side the OEM solution has been to put the electric injection pump into the gas tank at the bottom which accomplishes about the same thing although it is a pain in the butt when it needs service!!!

While I get the general idea that you have to be careful in the use of these pumps as permanent automotive supplies, and they aren't up to the specs of typical gas fuel injection service anyway, i do come from a tradition of older vehicles where, when the fuel pump goes, we put the gas tank on the roof of the cab. Or, more sophisticately, I used to have 1961 dump truck and the fuel system was marginal. i didn't use it that often and the old tank would always be rusty clogging everything up to and including the carburetor, so when i needed to use it i would strap an outboard tank on the roof of the cab and prime to the carburetor with the squeeze bulb (which i zip tied so it hung just outside the drivers window). The bulb was also handy if you needed a lot of gas for flooring it going uphill, i would start pumping by hand.

It is pretty easy to think of reasonable ways you could take advantage of these pumps and maintain a margin of safety for more regular use with the fuel components in more or less their original location, e.g. put a "tee" on the oil pressure sensor and add a close on rise pressure switch so the fuel pump would not be energized if there was no oil pressure and then add a momentary bypass button for starting . . . you could also rob one of the inertial safeties off a car in the junkyard.

I really like these pumps. (for that matter i wish they would replace engine mounted water pumps with electrics as well).

I also one in a homemade tapping fluid recovery systems that I used to thread stainless anchor bolts in foundation.


brian

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

i do come from a tradition of older vehicles where, when the fuel pump goes, we put the gas tank on the roof

Hey, maybe that will work on this BMW I'm working on.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

LMAO, HT! I can see it now, a 40 foot extension ladder duct taped up to hold fuel high enough to gain the pressure required! Ha - pass anything but an underpass - too funny, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not sure if you are only looking on line or right at a brick and mortar place. NAPA rules when it comes to these things for me locally for ages on end.


IMO - forget Fram! Not what they used to be IMO, WIX is still I hope - they can all change - ask or check. For me at NAPA they can still dig out a paper book for wildly old stuff not at their site.


Whatever you are making up might already be ready to go but doubt it. #1, if for permanent use on an engine you should make sure it can't work unless you are present meaning a momentary switch or if the primary source of fuel it should shut down also if engine isn't running or cranking such that if it kept pumping on a dead engine (hot) and a problem it wouldn't just dump fuel all over it!


Pic of sample>>

^^ Was there in stock at NAPA and common to Ford. GM did too. NAPA "Gold" part #s are same as WIX + one number at beginning of part #.


Was searching web for images if you haven't try that. You'll find glass bowl cleanable ones, filters that you can clean and stuff endlessly.


You can (I think you mentioned one) a squeeze bulb common to outboard boats with separate tanks. There no doubt are totally manual pumps all depends on what you want up to mandatory water separating and rust proof materials - those you'll find at Marine specialty parts and also NAPA.


For my own use said up a post or two is to mostly transfer gas or empty a tank NOT to run an engine. I can't tip over a generator so easily and folks do when access to just let them drain isn't practical. I do want the fuel and filtered to use up as none of it ages well.


Pay attention to clamps if/when used. Cheap "worm" types are not commonly made to be full circle pressure even as well as the spring ones you just use pliers can.


This I find tough in stock. Specifically German new vehicle dealers will have full circle clamps on hand (some bucks) that won't rust.


Whatever you are doing think of sparks for anything electrical. Think rust proof for everything fuel. Rubber to be fuel rated meaning gas even if for an oil or diesel. Duh - I wouldn't be swapping around use of something portable for different fuels.


For some assorted stuff I find better luck at smaller hardware stores, even chains more than huge home centers.


If you need to know exact thread size you can get like a feeler gauge barbed to measure threads and an in or outside diameter (word escapes me right now) thing for size both metric and SAE should show.


You'd think NAPA was paying me (not) but they do carry stuff or get stuff for non automotive specific items, Marine, RV and more. Check web site but it lack IMO like many vs being there especially if matching things up,


Tom

engine has a constant misfire and bogs at wot

Showing 3 out of 13 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From zinnoberot on engine has a constant misfire and bogs at wot

Hello I have had this problem for four years. The car is a 1986 bmw 325es with a 2.7L engine. The problem I have is a constant misfire or appears to be a misfire at 2800-3200 hot or cold but once I pass those rpms if I open it wot it bogs terribly but if I feather the throttle I can rev to 5k and it pulls like it should but it wont allow me to go wot. Also I watched the exhaust one night in the side rear view mirror and when it misfired I seen it in the exhaust stream. It was cold out so I could see the moisture coming out of the exhaust but right when the car misfires it had no moisture in a few strokes what i would be assuming an injector not firing or no spark. Now the list the stuff I have changed or swapped with a known normal running car.
ecu-swapped no change
afm-swapped no change
tps-swapped no change
new fuel filter-no change
car has two fuel pumps a pre pump and a high pressure pump
pulled screen from tank-full of rust, so I cleaned that but fuel filter I could not blow through, so injector screens might have rust <---have to test
new spark plugs-no change old ones were all normal color no rich or lean indications or burning oil
plug wires swapped-no change
new cap-no change
swapped rotor-no change
swapped coil-no change
new fpr-no change
new o2-no change
added another ground wire to engine-no change
checked injector pulses and they are firing at those rpms
also I had the exhaust off at the manifold down pipes and it still misfired, popping noise was present from the exhaust, which Im thinking a valve burnt
also did vacuum test and its saying that its not a clog exhaust theres more to the vacuum gauge things too which indicate rings leaking but im not sure if having the exhaust off after the cat is messing with my readings
new timing belt and water pump but is irrelevant, it had the problem prior to these parts
I did compression test and fuel test Ill post that soon but Ill see what you guys think at this point maybe im missing something. also I got a ecu temp sensor but didnt get around to put it in cause its cold out and it requires me to undo stuff I put together already. Only things i didnt get around to do is the injectors,intake gasket but did have the vacuum gauge hook up and indicated that there is no leak but if it is it might be small. thoughts and opinions are appreciated cause I giving up on it, I dont want to keep throwing money at something thats not doing anything. ask away, also I got two repair manuals on this car and no luck with them.

Response From zinnoberot

alright heres the fuel specs
fuel rate volume is 30oz in 30seconds
I got 28-29oz
fuel pump 92psi (spec is 92-100psi)
fuel pump hold pressure 30psi jumps to 27psi after 5minutes (spec is 80psi) check valve problem im not sure if it has one otherwise its bleeding back through the pump but that shouldnt cause my problems would it?
fuel system energized, engine off 36psi (spec is 36-37psi)
fuel system hold pressure 30psi jumps to 34psi after 5minutes(spec is 30psi) this ones odd
pressure regulator check at idle, vacuum hose attached 28psi (spec is 36-37psi)
pressure regulator check at idle, vacuum hose detached 37psi (spec is 39-40psi)
I need to check the transfer pump pressure and double check the pressures again but I did replace the fpr so I cant remember if I checked it after it. I think I might check to see if my coil is fading out at the misfire also my tach reads the misfire but doesnt drop to zero when its doing it. and all the injectors are firing but I read these low imp. injectors fail at a mid rpm range something about the transition from pulsing to almost being full open, also them clicking doesnt verify them working either. I sat up for hours after hours after hours pretty much four years trying to figure this car out.

Response From asleepatdawheel

I have question about your fuel pressures.. You stated fuel pump 92 psi.. Is that what its rated at or is that fuel pressure reading?? Only asking since you have below,, KOEO pressure at 36 psi,, KOER at 28 psi and below specs by ten psi.. Where did you get the 92 psi reading from?? Also I would check injectors for blockage if you had rust or other contaminants in your fuel system..And make sure the connectors are are properly connected..I would also check voltage at pump to make sure you have proper voltage throughout driving speed..
Also does this engine have a timing belt or timing chain.. Either could be strecthed and cause a slight misfire..

Response From zinnoberot

The 92 psi from the fuel pump, its hooked straight up to the fuel gauge its not teed to any other location. All injectors are firing, but the rust could be causing a problem it was a fine rust so it could have made its way up there, it kinda looked like coffee grinds, but smaller particles that i pulled out of the tank screen. I havent check the fuel pumps voltage at those speeds. I have a new timing belt, but this problem was there prior to me changing it. Yeah im on the verge of pulling the intake manifold with the fuel rail to check injectors but its kinda cold. The car drives perfectly fine up to 2800rpms then it throws a hissy fit, tach bouncing and jerking me forward and back, then i feather it, then it hauls ass but i cant punch it to the floor, but it eventually makes it to 5k. I thought id give another way how to explain it.

Response From asleepatdawheel

With All that you have checked and or replaced,, i would say to check the injectors for any blockage and also ohm them to be sure they ohm correctly....It could be that since there is alot of contamination in your fuel system...Cant recall right now but did you check fuel pressure regulator... If not Check that.. Also is the fuel pump in or out of tank...If its in tank,, have you ever dropped tank and looked at it to make sure you have proper line and electrial connections...

Response From zinnoberot

Yup already checked the injectors ohms, all in spec. Yeah my car has two fuel pumps a 5psi transfer pump and then it goes to the high pressure pump. also you were saying about dropping the tank i looked in there its all good, but the coffee grind rust i got out of the sock, i cleaned that out a long while ago. Also the tank has been dented which prolly made the rust get into the sock. and dropping the tank, I prolly wont be doing that anytime soon lol. The tank wraps around the driveshaft. I put 16oz of seafoam in 5gallons then when it got down to 3 gallons i dumped entire 32oz of marvel mystery oil in, it smoothed some things but not what i was looking for, plus if its rust in my injector screens, all the injector cleaner in the world wont remove it, but i thought id give it a try for other stuff in the injectors. Im gonna see if my ecu temp sensor is part of the problem, I was reading that those sensors change the pulse length of the injectors and timing, also the injectors I have to look at but not until it gets warm here. Id change it, but i have to remove all the stuff i had off already, so that sensors gonna have to wait. oh and fuel pressure regulator its brand new. thanks so far.

Response From steve01832

From the description you gave, it sounds like the throttle has to be in the same place every time the problem happens. You may want to take a closer look at the throttle position sensor. If it has a dead spot, it will cut fuel when the wiper goes over the dead part of the coil in the sensor. You can check this with an ohmmeter between the input and signal terminals. Work the sensor by hand slowly as you watch the resistance change. It should be a smooth change with no sharp drop outs.
The ohmmeter will work for this, but, a trace scope is the best method if you can get your hands on one. You will be testing voltage over time if you use this method, much more accurate.

Steve

Response From zinnoberot

Yeah I change the entire throttle body that has the tps attached, also I verified it is getting power 5volts. Also these tps arent potentiometer styled, they have a two switch style kind. At idle it switches to idle mode and the idle control module starts to work which it starts working my idle control valve and then at wot it ignores the o2 sensor. and I checked the tps like it says in my one manual and at idle posistion your suppose to get continuity and at wot its suppose to get continuity at 8-12 degrees before wot and it does. Yeah its a mind boggler I cant seem to figure it out.

Response From zinnoberot Top Rated Answer

alright heres the compression numbers spec is (142-156)psi
cylinder dry wet
#1 165 psi 174 psi
#2 155 psi 180 psi
#3 145 psi 160 psi
#4 140 psi 159 psi
#5 164 psi 179 psi
#6 180 psi 190 psi

Im gonna say that number 6 seems like it has some carbon build up

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That is kinda high for an old car! It might be carbon which has been rare to me for ions but common when leaded gas and poke around use of vehicles happened. I would think plugs would show evidence??


In dinosaur days it was routine to pour water slowly down a warmed up engine would clear it - don't do that! Also ATF and don't do that either. Any of those tricks can cause serious harm.

We used to take a car and just give it a hard run to clear them out too.

I think I'd consider the product called "Deep Creep" which is like shaving cream - far less apt to cause hydraulic lock which would be a disaster! Suggest changing oil in the case it gets in crankcase. Leave something like that overnight or made to spay into running engine's intake. Could foul plugs up.

You could take out all plugs - marked - leave them out and use same. Crank engine with plugs OUT and excess would/should spit out plug holes - use towels so you don't hurt painted stuff.

Probably safest is to use fuel solvents and give it a good run.

See what others suggest before you go nuts with anything,

T

Response From zinnoberot

I did the seafoam in the intake a while ago. And now recently I put 10oz in approx five gallons of fuel and still nothing also put 4oz in the crankcase that seem to free up the motor but didnt effect the misfire or bog. I was thinking of running more but if 10oz didnt do much, im not sure if I need more. I havent heard of deep creep yet, Ill look it up. thanks tom for your advice.

Response From brager

when it bogs down does it make any difference or do you notice any
difference whether you have a half tank or full tank fuel?

Response From zinnoberot

I havent lately put a full tank in but when I put 3/4 in the one time I did notice it relieved my hesitation from a standstill to wot throttle. also this bog is only in the upper rpm range after I pass 3200, i forgot to mention that, also all the effects of the misfire and bog are in every gear also its an automatic but I dont think its the tranny what so ever. I got to find my fuel pressure specs when I find them Ill post them aswell.