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ford ranger Parts

Showing 1 - 10 of 36,179 Products.

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Eastern Catalytic
1999 Ford Ranger Catalytic Converter - Rear 6 Cyl 4.0L Eastern Catalytic

P311-24F2942    83706  New

Qty:
$66.59
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Rear
  • Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of California NY (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1999 - Ford Ranger V - 245 Rear
Eastern Catalytic
2004 Ford Ranger Catalytic Converter - Front 6 Cyl 3.0L Eastern Catalytic

P311-59CEBDD    30515  New

Qty:
$408.72
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter  Front
  • Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of California NY (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • DIRECT FIT
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2004 - Ford Ranger V - 182 Front
Eastern Catalytic
2004 Ford Ranger Catalytic Converter 4 Cyl 2.3L Eastern Catalytic

P311-17B51AF    83625  New

Qty:
$65.80
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of California NY (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2004 - Ford Ranger L - 140
Eastern Catalytic
2008 Ford Ranger Catalytic Converter 4 Cyl 2.3L Eastern Catalytic

P311-17B51AF    83625  New

Qty:
$65.80
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • California EMISSIONS Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of California NY (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Submodel
2008 - Ford Ranger L - 140 XL
Magnaflow
1997 Ford Ranger Catalytic Converter 6 Cyl 3.0L Magnaflow

P311-2F9E7BD    441116  New

Qty:
$451.50
Magnaflow Catalytic Converter
  • Conv DF 95-97 Ranger/BSeries V6 50S
  • Certification Level : TIER1
  • Direct-Fit CALIFORNIA OBDII CONVERTERS
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anticipated Ship Out Time: Approximately 1-2 Days
    • California Air Resources Board Approved: Yes
    • Catalytic Converter Body Material: Stainless
    • Catalytic Converter Overall Length: 34.75
    • Components: Gasket=2
    • Exhaust Pipe Material: Stainless Steel
    • Gasket Or Seal Included: Yes
    • Material: Stainless
    • Recommended Use: Converter
    • Series: California
    • Substrate Material: Ceramic
    • Universal Or Specific Fit: Specific
Brand: Magnaflow
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1997 - Ford Ranger V - 182
Moog
1987 Ford Ranger Radius Arm Bracket - Front Right Moog

P311-130EE36    K8778  New

Qty:
$49.68
Moog Radius Arm Bracket  Front Right
  • Radius Arm Bracket
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Easy To Install
    • Feature 2: Long-lasting Performance
    • Feature 3: Engineered To Meet Or Exceed Oe Requirements
    • Feature 4: Moog Engineering-validated Construction And Design
    • Feature 5: Problem Solver Products Incorporate Proven Design And Engineering Features
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs.
Brand: Moog
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Ford Ranger Front Right
Moog
1986 Ford Ranger Coil Spring Set - Front Moog

P311-0D842F4    CC840  New

Qty:
$65.47
Moog Coil Spring Set  Front
  • Variable Rate Coil Springs
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bar Diameter - Inches: 0.65
    • Bar Diameter - MM: 16.70
    • End Type 1: Squared
    • End Type 2: Pigtail
    • Feature 1: Variable Rate Coil Springs Automatically Adjust To Changing Conditions And Loads To Maintain Proper Chassis Ride Height And Smooth Ride Characteristics.
    • Feature 2: Ideal For Family Transportation, Work Trucks And Sales Fleet Vehicles.
    • Feature 3: Powder Coated To Protect Against Corrosion, Which Can Cause Coil Spring Fatigue Or Fracture.
    • Feature 4: Worn Or Sagging Coil Springs Can Cause Premature Tire Wear Due To Vehicle Misalignment.
    • Free Height - Inches: 13.75
    • Free Height - MM: 349.30
    • ID - Inches: 3.50
    • ID - MM: 88.90
    • Installation Height - Inches: 10.50
    • Installation Height - MM: 266.70
    • Load - lbs: 1323.00
    • Spring Rate - lbs per inch: 377.00
    • Spring Type: Variable Rate
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs.
Brand: Moog
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Doors Body Drive Type Position Wheel Base
1986 - Ford Ranger 2 Standard Cab Pickup 4WD Front 114.0
Moog
1983 Ford Ranger Steering Damper Cylinder - Front Moog

P311-3372A77    SSD106  New

Qty:
$41.79
Moog Steering Damper Cylinder  Front
  • Steering Damper Cylinder
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Easy To Install
    • Feature 2: Restores Like-new Steering And Handling
    • Feature 3: Engineered To Meet Or Exceed Oe Requirements
    • Feature 4: Moog Engineering-validated Construction And Design
    • Feature 5: Problem Solver Products Incorporate Proven Design And Engineering Features
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs.
Brand: Moog
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1983 - Ford Ranger Front
DEA
1993 Ford Ranger Engine Mount DEA

P311-5191150    W0133-1856374  New

Qty:
$23.73
DEA Engine Mount
  • Left
Brand: DEA
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Ford Ranger

Showing 1 - 10 of 36,179 Products.


Latest Ford Ranger Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1996 ford ranger

Showing 4 out of 13 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From angelbar on 1996 ford ranger

i am having a problems with my 96 ford ranger splash 4 cylerder 8 plug.. i have put a new starter, alternator and new battery.. it will start and i will drive it a short distances and the battery will die.. i am running out of opoins. please help,




Links and personal info deleted

Response From Hammer Time

Your very first step should have been to measure the charging voltage to determine if it's recharging or not. Have you done that yet?

Response From angelbar

yes i have.. i went to advance auto bought a new battery ..after i put it in the truck it was still acting up. so they even put it on the tester and everything was good.. it came up 17 somthing... the new altanater they re took it out and even tested that and that was even good. got a new started also.. i took the radio out and the air thing..and i can drive it for about 10 miles then dies.

Response From Hammer Time

What I want to know is what was the charging voltage at idle with all accessories off?
When this thing dies, how do you get it started again?

Response From angelbar

i recharge with my battery charger. it says full charge.. thats with everything off..

Response From Hammer Time

OK, apparently I speaking a different language here. Maybe someone else will have better luck.

Response From angelbar

ill have to go out there tomorrow and try to start it again.. but when i do have a full charge it will start up.. with no problem. now the gage dont go past the quarter mark. now it will stay started.. but when i try to drive it a full 10 miles. thats when it will die.. they said everything is good the battery, start and alternator. thats where i am having problems

Response From Hammer Time

Look, we're just running in circles. Someone needs to perform the tests I'm asking for, for me to be able to be any help. If you don't have a way to do that or someone that can do it for you, then we aren't going to be able to be much help here. You have no usable information.

Response From angelbar

ok thanks i will get back with you..ill have them test it again to see what they say.. i just dont have money for put it in the shop and rack me up everyday.. but thank so u so much..

Response From Sidom

Ok I'm going to make a suggestion here that will hopefully help get you the answer you are looking for.

You are supplying a lot of info concerning your problem which you feel is important and that's great but you are failing to answer HTs questions. I've read thru this and you have yet to answer one of his questions.

So in the next post....slow down, take a breath, clear your mind and slowly read his post. Then answer each on the questions (don't guess or make stuff up). If you have questions or stuff you want to add....go for it but in the 2nd or 3rd paragraph...AFTER you've answered the questions....

Just the facts ma'am.....

BTW I know a few females that have way more automotive knowledge than most males..... Just because you're female doesn't mean that you CAN'T have automotive knowledge, rather you have CHOSE not to have it at this point in life....

Response From angelbar Top Rated Answer

im just a girl and really needs someone to brake it down for me sorry..

Response From Hammer Time

OK, I didn't know you were a girl.
You need to use a digital voltmeter and measure the voltage across the battery with the engine idling and no accessories on.
How do you get this started when it dies?

Response From angelbar

i let it charge over night

Ford Ranger accident need advice

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From rottenroot on Ford Ranger accident need advice

I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab 4x4 with the 4.0 OHV motor 145k, salvage title. Bad accident, bent frame pretty good. Can this be fixed easily without a frame machine? Would it be worth it? It is a Michigan truck so the rust is getting to it also.. Any input is appreciated, names of parts and prices, etc. Otherwise Im considering parting it out. THANKS

PICS:
http://imgur.com/a/ZzD0t

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Salvage vehicle already just hurt value to sell running maybe not even that much now at the age?


Having trouble despite good pics if REAL frame is bent meaning the box beam "horn" of it not just the taps on the front.


How handy are you with this stuff and can you get parts real cheap?


Nice pics but are door seams even and open and close right? Hate to see you waste money and time so it's always up to you on your abilities and cost of parts plus the time to do it otherwise part it out,


T

Response From rottenroot Top Rated Answer

Thank you for the replies.. I was wondering if I could hook a chain to that front tap and yank it back into place with another vehicle since that's the only part that is bent. Would it work? both driver and passenger doors open and close fine and are even. THANKS

http://imgur.com/a/H82c8

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's not my specialty and if this wasn't a basic clunker wouldn't be discussing it for fixing at all. I can't "SEE" anything FRAME bent just a lot of "SOFT" crap that might be ok to do.


I've pulled a real bent frame stronger than that one that DID NOT bent anything to do with alignment of the wheels at all just how it held the bumper with a chain and a utility pole. Told by local frame straighten shop owner to pull or yank the way it was hit and cross fingers it probably would stop where it should be and did!
You may want it checked on where bent if really so you don't really see it well it's measured by laser. The car I did was a wild creation of assorted parts 100% legal and safe and it just worked with nothing to lose it not so it's possible but I was lucky for sure.
Messed up here. The default answer is if in doubt and not going to spend the $$ for pro check and straighten as required then don't and part it out.
Thing look a bit rough as you said. IDK - make a neat yard vehicle if cheap to try and forget road use - 4X4 parts should make this worth some decent bucks to junk it and move on to another vehicle totally unwrecked.


Again - my now suggestion is don't unless you spend some bucks having it checked OR sell it whole a fixer or something as I can't tell from pics 1/4" frame issues that would rule it out,


Tom

Response From Hammer Time

Without a frame machine? What are you going to pull it with, your teeth?
The title states salvage for a reason. It's permanent damage and a future weakness. Most states won't allow you to register that.

1987 Ford Ranger

Showing 4 out of 10 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From wramsey on 1987 Ford Ranger

Would anyone have knowledge on what would cause an 87 Ford Ranger with a 2.9 EFI, 4x4, Automatic Trans. to act as if it was "flooding"?

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

There is a lot of things that could cause that. Is your check engine light on?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

A maybe??



Coolant Sensor - It tells it how much fuel injection should used - like the choke action of a carb. CEL would be late if this just happened to help isolate. Connection where it's plugged in can be the issue also of lots of things at the age,

T

Response From wramsey

Where is the coolant sensor located? It is worth a shot. It will not act this way everytime. However I did notice today that the engine sounds as if it is at a high idle when not in gear.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

wramsey; In addition, if you have a fast idle, you may have a vacuum leak which could cause the MAP sensor to get a false reading, causing overfueling. Just a thought.

Response From Sidom

Well... It is very possible to have a bad coolant temp, & if it's stuck on the cold side it will cause a rich condition OR you could have a bad intake air temp sensor, bad o2 sensor, leaky injector, bad fuel pressure regulator, MAF sensor, etc......

There are a lot of things that can cause a rich conditions. A quick look at a data stream would eliminate a lot of those components, as would a fuel pressue test...

Maybe a good thing to do before you start is find out how much plan B would cost..... A diag and then set a limit. If the diag is $100, then throw say maybe $60 worth of parts at it. If that doesn't solve the problem then you won't be out too much. But if you throw $200 worth of parts at & don't fix the problem now you are still looking at taking it in & if the part is a $60 sensor you missed that you could've done yourself, then the total cost of not guessing would've been $160 but with the attempt to avoid the diag it's now $360.....

Don't get me wrong.....I'm not pushin ya to come see me...... I would just like to see you confirm the bad part so you don't throw a lot of your money away......

If you don't have a scanner, a few of the guys have posted some resistance charts for sensors and I sure they would be glad to post some for you if you need them, that's not my 1st or 2nd route to go BUT if the sensor is totally bad that way will pick it up.....

This is a great site & these guys will help you through some tests to find & fix the problem & hopefully save you some $$$$$$$$$......& if it works...... I know Loren likes Coronas, can't say for Tom, HT, W2O, DJ or Jeff........ But if I guess right....I'll take a Starbucks....

Just off the top of my head...... Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail & see if there is raw gas in the vacuum hose......Those were good for rupturing the diaphram & sending fuel into the motor via the vacuum line......

Hope this helps some........

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good stuff Sidom. Wramsey - the CTS can be checked without expense. Damn if the chart isn't handy but it's located high on the engine near thermostat - usually just two wires. Sometime just the connection! It's high enough up you don't have to drain much coolant to remove but know that in doing so you may break it.

It's about ohms. When engine is cold it will read XYZ ohms and will be markedly different when warm - if it changes it's probably not the issue and move on to next idea - diagnostics vs parts when possible. When something is cheap enough I would say to try new is testing is a PITA but tossing parts isn't the best approach in most cases like Sidom said.

If you don't have test equipment for whatever comes along don't be afraid to pay for a diagnostic for where to go. I can't tell you how much money it takes to have most (nobody has everything) tools and equipment to do certain things.

Know that fixing a rich fueling condition real soon will help tons in saving other problems caused by that,

T

Response From wramsey

Thanks to the both of you folks for trying to help me out. As weard as it may be the problem has not raised its ugly head for three days now. I have approached thre different "Ford" guys and their response was that a diagnostics machine does not show things as well on the older vehicles as they would in the newer vehicles. All of them want to charge me 65 and 70 bucks an hour to figure out the problem. Not sure what to do at this point.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If this problem has ceased you may need to wait for it to return to diagnose. No harm in taking a careful look at vacuum hoses (some will go to small plastic than back to rubber elbow or hose) and electrical connections for now. If just touching something sets it off again tell us what and where and take it from there,

T

Response From wramsey

The engine light is not on. There are no codes when the OBD computer is connected.

Need help identifying wire 04 ford ranger

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From codyaucoin91 on Need help identifying wire 04 ford ranger

I have a 2004 ford ranger 2.3l 4 cylinder engine .. Found a wire that appears to be burnt but I can't figure out what it is. It comes from the valve cover but is then spliced into another set of wires which goes to the air filter hose. Anyone know what this could be? I'm attaching a picture of an engine I found online that shows what I'm talking about.

A lil background info on the truck - I've been having issues with water getting in the coil since I got the truck. Figured maybe it was because a fender shield was missing but still not positive. Anyway, I was recently in a wreck that caused a small crack in my radiator. Tried to seal it with epoxy which apparently didn't hold because water ended up spewing all over the engine. I drove it to work (takes around 45 minutes) and when I went to leave work 12 hours later, it cranked up and then started sputtering real bad when I started to leave and died out. Tried to crank it again with no luck. Popped the hood open & it smelled like something was burning. Then I discovered that wire I mentioned above that looks burnt.


Response From Hammer Time

You probably fried it. You can't continue to drive a car with a coolant leak. That's the fastest way known to destroy an engine. Get it to a shop to be checked out.

Response From nickwarner

With HT on that. Also, that picture was so dark and grainy it makes it impossible to see anything. Almost the entire area you had in the red square is completely black. The rest looks like the camera lens had vaseline on it. In the future please bear in mind that pics do indeed help us help you, but only pics that are bright and clear. Dark and grainy does none of us any good.

As you are finding out, putting epoxy on a cracked radiator tank won't work. New radiator time. Its a lot cheaper than an engine.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Wow...picture taken with a potato?

1988 Ford Ranger Horn relay

Showing 3 out of 14 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From raykl on 1988 Ford Ranger Horn relay

Where is the horn relay on a 1988 Ford Ranger? I am trying to get it inspected and mechanic can't find it. Thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

It's attached to the speed control amplifier bracket.

Response From raykl

After much searching this Ranger does not have a relay. The relay is only on Rangers that have cruise control. We found that the trouble is in the horn switch in the steering column. The only problem is that according to the local Ford dealer this switch is no longer available. Does anyone know the part number or where I can find one? Thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Horn Switch" isn't going to get you far by that name. "Clock Spring'' (a slang name?) might be what you are after?? You will need to see a diagram and point out which part you have found wrong. I just Googled the web away for pics with little luck.

If you mean the button on the wheel that your hand pushes that's all different from a spring loaded wheel which you won't see with the wheel on the vehicle that has a spring loaded contact to a ring allowing electrical impulse to NOT use wire on a rotating part.

It's available with a hunt. I suggest a Napa dealer or check out a parts line called "HELP" mostly in some larger chain parts stores. If all else fails and you know just the part you need it might be faster to go used.

I'll just bet the many models of Ford vehicles use same parts at least near the age of this or older even. Takes a steering wheel puller and tool to go deeper than that beyond locking start wheel for locking the wheel,

T

Response From raykl

The part that I need is a switch that is mounted on a V shaped plastic bracket with rivets. The switch has two spring loaded pins. It has a two wire cable with a plug on the end. I have not been able to locate a diagram or part number. It may have a different name. I would call it a horn switch but Ford may call it something different. Thanks for your help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm trying Do you mean the part you touch and not a part that is seen from removing screws from behind the trim of the wheel? Are wires rivited to a color matched pad of sorts to what you are after? Those can be "dyed" to match if needed which is applied like spray paint. If so and a new colored interior part - some only came one color new and you changed those to the car's color!

This should be a pic of a 88 Ranger from Ebay which will expire and I don't see obvious stuff with wheel intact but here it is.....



If like that say if some area helps,

T

Response From raykl

That photo looks like a newer Ranger than a 1988. The switch is located inside the steering column.The switch is riveted to a plastic bracket that is held down with two screws. I just spoke with a Ford dealer and he told me it is a horn switch assembly. Part # C9AZ13A875B. I have not had a chance to research this number yet. Thanks for your time and assistance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I just struck out again even with the part # - arggh!

At least you have that and a name for it which will help. Gotta go right now. Search away - trust me it exists!

T

Response From RJc10

I have a contact switch problem with my 87 Ranger also. One of the spring loaded pins is evidently no longer spring loaded which is a grounding pin. This part is near impossible to find, as I've discovered. When I do find mine I'll relay the information because I'm sure we aren't the only ones out here with the same issue.

Response From Sidom

Some of these parts you almost have to go to a wrecking yard to find or mod or fab one.

These vehicles are so old the manufacturer doesn't make the part any more. To make things worse, it was so uncommon the AM never picked up on it. So unfortunately these poor folks are SOL. You see alot of these vehicles with push buttons on the dash somewhere....

Response From RJc10

Maybe I could rig up something using part of the cylinder and spring out of a clicker pen and something shaped like mig tip with a hole drilled through the base for a roll pin to act as a stop.

Response From raykl

Where is the speed control amplifier bracket? I'm no car mechanic but I have never heard of that.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It's under the dash on the driver's side, alongside the steering column.

Response From raykl

Thank you for your reply. It was very fast and the drawing will be very helpful. God Bless.