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Cardone
2005 Ford Freestar Engine Control Module 6 Cyl 3.9L Cardone - Engine Control Module

P311-5E8EBA5    78-9195F  Remanufactured

5F2A12A650BA , 5F2A12A650BB , 5F2A12A650BC , 5F2A12A650CA , 5F2A12A650CB , 5F2A12A650CC , 5F2A12A650DA , 5F2A12A650DB , 5F2A12A650DC , 5F2A12A650EA , 5F2A12A650EB , 5F2A12A650EC , 5F2A12A650HA , 5F2A12A650HB , 5F2A12A650KA , 5F2A12A650KB , 5F2Z12A650BA , 5F2Z12A650BB , 5F2Z12A650BC , 5F2Z12A650CA , 5F2Z12A650CB , 5F2Z12A650CC , 5F2Z12A650DA , 5F2Z12A650DB , 5F2Z12A650DC , 5F2Z12A650EA , 5F2Z12A650EB , 5F2Z12A650EC , 5F2Z12A650HA , 5F2Z12A650HB , 5F2Z12A650KA , 5F2Z12A650KB

Qty:
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$56.70 $234.17
Cardone Engine Control Module
  • Engine Control Computer
  • All Calibrations with Module ID MP2-1E0 PATS Module Requires Programming after ECM Install. Correct VIN and OE Number Required When Ordering ; Vehicle specific Flash programming req'd ON or OFF the vehicle.Accurate VIN and mileage are req'd. Additional vehicle specific on-car programming must be performed AFTER installation to prevent drivability and starting issues.
  • Engine Control Module
  • CARDONE® Remanufactured Electronic and Powertrain Control Modules are designed to meet or exceed O.E. performance. Reverse engineering provides insight into how and why the unit originally failed, allowing our engineers to identify and correct original design weaknesses. All critical components are re-soldered or replaced at our Philadelphia manufacturing plant, and each unit is 100% computer tested to ensure reliability. CARDONE is committed to getting your vehicle back to peak performance.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Ford Freestar V 6 Cyl 3.9L 238 -
Mahle
2007 Ford Freestar Fuel Filter Mahle

P311-37370C9    W0133-1702812  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$22.93
Mahle Fuel Filter
  • Original
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Ford Freestar
Gates
2005 Ford Freestar Engine Coolant Reservoir Cap Gates

P311-5CF5CF9    W0133-1930304  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$23.37
Gates Engine Coolant Reservoir Cap
  • OE Type
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Ford Freestar
Gates
2007 Ford Freestar Radiator Cap Gates

P311-5CF5CF9    W0133-1930304  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$23.37
Gates Radiator Cap
  • OE Type
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Ford Freestar
Motorcraft
2006 Ford Freestar Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft - Single Filter

P311-1FCB293    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$24.73
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Ford Freestar
Vemo
2007 Ford Freestar HVAC Blower Motor Resistor Vemo

P311-5C2CF39    W0133-1810830  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$44.21
Vemo HVAC Blower Motor Resistor
  • with Manual Temperature Controls
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Ford Freestar
Motorcraft
2007 Ford Freestar Fuel Filter Motorcraft

P311-23518ED    W0133-1702812  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$34.90
Motorcraft Fuel Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Ford Freestar
Dorman
2007 Ford Freestar Engine Oil Drain Plug Dorman - Magnetic Plug

P311-560EE3B    W0133-1947213  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$11.26
Dorman Engine Oil Drain Plug
  • Autograde
  • with Gasket, 12mm
  • Magnetic Plug
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Ford Freestar
Dorman
2006 Ford Freestar Engine Oil Drain Plug Dorman

P311-560EE3B    W0133-1947213  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$11.26
Dorman Engine Oil Drain Plug
  • Autograde
  • with Gasket, 12mm
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Ford Freestar
Dorman
2006 Ford Freestar Engine Oil Drain Plug Dorman

P311-560EE3B    W0133-1947213  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$11.26
Dorman Engine Oil Drain Plug
  • Metric
  • with Gasket, 12mm
  • Oil Drain Plug, Pilot Point - M12-1.75 Thread - Head Size: 13mm, 10/box, so ld by each
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Ford Freestar

Showing 1 - 10 of 19,140 Products.


Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2006 Ford Freestar

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Cwoodkiter on 2006 Ford Freestar

I have an 06 Ford Freestar and 2 winters ago one of the sliding doors froze up forcing me to put a little extra force into opening it. As usual it was the door gasket froze to the body that caused the problem however it turns out that the plastic chain/electrical conduit beneath the door was also frozen so when I forced the door the "chain" got all twisted up. I just can't afford to have it repaired so stopped using the door but in conversation with a guy at work he suggested maybe just cutting the "chain" and wires inside the "chain" but that I should do a little research first. Is it ok to remove these?

Response From Hammer Time

There's no chain in there. It's a wire regulator just like the windows use.
It may work if you remove it but I wouldn't.

Response From MarineGrunt Top Rated Answer

Is it a power sliding door?

I wouldn't go cutting anything without looking at a wiring diagram. Those wires may do more than just control the power door lock. Cutting those wires may turn a small problem into a big problem.

Depending on how handy you are, have you thought about trying to correctly repair it yourself? You may be able to pickup used parts at a local salvage yard.

There are some professional mechanics on this site. They'll be able to give you some good advice and possibly tell you what the consequences would be of cutting those wires.

2004 ford freestar transmission problem

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From mkent on 2004 ford freestar transmission problem

2004 ford freestar

we were driving down the high way and the rpm reved up but the van would not go into any gear. all we did was go to pass someone and it just guit. It worked fine until then never slipped or any thing. we did get our oil changed just before we left could of they bumped something to make it do this. We parked the van on the side of the high way and it will go into park but will not go into anyother gear. I just dont get it the van was running perfectly fine until then. The van has 120,000 miles on it.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

It doesn't sound good...

The only thing I will add is....

At 120k hopefully that was your 4th trans service & not the 1st. If it was the 1st then thats is what did it in...... Ford requires 30k services on that trans.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Of course, check your engine and transmission fluid levels, first. Sounds like you may have lost the transmission?

2004 Ford Freestar minivan cooling issue????

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From 33FIREMAN on 2004 Ford Freestar minivan cooling issue????

I have an issue with my van and it has to do with the cooling system. When I drive around town it runs fine at abot 1/3 on the gauge. When I drive over 60 the gauge climbs to about 8/10!! I've replaced the upper radiator hose and thermostat, and of course the radiator. It still is doing it. Also note that ever since this started I can hear water flowing through the heater core and hoses very loudly....especially when I accelerate from a stop. It has never boiled over and I'm getting frustrated!!! Could there be air in the system that is causing the water noise??? And how do you burp it out when the radiator fill is in the overflow basin??? HELP

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did this do this before changing the thermostat, hose and radiator? I ask as if identical before and after there's something else going on. If worse after I'd say there's air in the system that just can't self purge out the last bit.

Recovery tank should stay steady. System should hold pressure which is regulated by the radiator cap frequently on the recovery tank.

At cold start you can feel upper hose for pressure - should squeeze easily and no pressure and stay cold till thermostat opens -- KEEP HANDS FREE OF FANS AND MOVING PARTS! Hose will get hot to too hot to touch and the expansion makes the pressure build as it warms up. Excess from expanding goes to recovery tank - and will read high on the range. Upon cool down that pressure cap allows air on top of liquid as coolant in engine shrinks again taking back recovered coolant only - not air.

If pressure from before a cold start instantly builds up in short order - one minute or so let us know as it shouldn't.

Some possible reasons for heating up at speed and ok when slower include:

* Low coolant level in engine itself - air still stuck, could account for noise and inadequate cooling. Unusual to not self purge last bit of air after a few cycles once filled it should stay filled and free of air in radiator and all engine parts. Heater core too.

* Water pump impellers may be worn. Usually notices as poor heater performance that gets better with RPMs at first. If erratically worn (corroded) could be cavatating making bubbles and be heard and the bubbles wont cool well and heater wouldn't heat well.

* Antifreeze mix way too strong! Yes - the heat exchanging ability of strong antifreeze doesn't transfer heat well. More than set to -34F is suspect area. Straight antifreeze used about always causes a problem unless very cool outside. It's real purpose is preventing freezing and for it anti-corrosive properties/additive. Makes a lousy coolant for cooling!

* Suction hose to water pump may be collapsing if water pump is strong some can suck them shut or close impeding flow. Springs placed inside those that historically are subject to that problem and usually longer hoses had that issue.

* Air flow must be correct. Any add ons the block air thru grille need be removed. No decorations or alterations or troubles CAN happen.

* Often forgotten is the air dam underside that nicely breaks off with some road to parking areas or those cement parking bumpers used in lots. Even a curb in parking can bust those right off.
There's a key reason for those - not just for looks. As air flow of speed increases the forces CAN/MAY create pressure on underside where the radiator is exiting air so it becomes a stand off and speed of air creates poor flow thru radiator! Fan is needed on several models even at speed but not a match for highway air speeds. Shape of vehicle and design of grille/body matter for this.

** Any of these and more could be the cause. Fan must be operating properly. At the higher temp as mentioned it could be boiling in corners of engine creating bubbles that could cause noise and the overheating.

** If pressure cap can't hold pressure or any item stopping pressure from happening the lower pressure will boil close to the boiling point of water even with antifreez/coolant mix. The pressure allows water and or coolant mix to be 3 degrees hotter F per each pound of pressure it allows. Average pressure caps are about 15lbs meaning plain water wont boil until not 212F but raised to stay as liquid to about 257F. Boiling water or coolant doesn't transfer heat well. In fact cars boiling over the heater will quit as the hot air to air doesn't make heater work - hot liquid can.

All that comes to mind for now. Next lousy reason is engine gaskets like head and or intake gaskets allowing combustion gasses to enter system acting as air. If slow enough it might go un-noticed as coolant loss,

T

Response From 33FIREMAN Top Rated Answer

I actually have just now reviewed your post. I was searching for another problem and seen this one. I moved and changed emails soon after the last post and the problem fell to the back burner.

I already replaced the upper radiator hose and it isnt collapsing. At least i dont think. I doesnt do this in the winter temps but only..."ONLY" when running high speeds up a long hill. It will try to creep up...the collant temp that is.

I'm starting to believe it is the impellers in the water pump. I'm gonna get it into a shop as soon as i get my tax return back!!! THANKS!!!!!!!

Response From jimmygpv

I am having the same exact trouble with my 2004 freestar.
Did you have any success with the water pump?

Also, did you have any issue with the heater core? My first problem was lack of heat in winter. (when temp was below 20 deg) and did you get an antifreeze odor in the cabin when the heat was on? I think I have two separate problems, but the overheating one is exactly the same as yours. I am stuck..

Response From Hammer Time

You need to start a new question of your own please.

Repairing Paint

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From sk05630 on Repairing Paint

I recently used some lighter fluid on a paper towel to remove some tree sap from the hood of my Ford Freestar van. Apparently I was too vigorous as now there are highly visible marks left as a result. Is there any product on the market that may help repair this damage or is re-painting the hood the only option?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In your opinion did the lighter fluid cause the stain or the sap to begin with? I've seen sap bake in and permanantly damage paint job. No doubt different saps will act differently. White pine sap where I am can cause permanant damage if left for any time. So can bugs and some bird droppings!

I've had luck but slow with MeGuires liquid cleaner/polish pooled on and wait or WD-40 (basically fish oil!) without damage. Like they all say - test in an inconspicuous area first,

T

Response From sk05630

Thanks for the response. I'm sure the marks left are from the lighter fluid and the pressure I used in removing the sap. Almost looks like I removed the clearcoat and the beginnings of the paint itself! I didn't know if those products like NuFinish or the like would help make it a little less noticeable.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I've had some luck temporarily to conceal damage. You may have a comprehensive ins claim for the damage if bad enough. Worth checking out,

T

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Meguiars....

04 Ford Freestar - AC Not Working, Bad Noises. Help!

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jmnorris on 04 Ford Freestar - AC Not Working, Bad Noises. Help!

Bought this car last fall, about 100k on it.

This spring, the A/C hasn't worked while in park or at low RPMs.

Past couple of weeks, there is a constant clicking, 5-10 clicks per second, when the A/C is turned on, but has still blown cold air.

Took a 500mi road trip this weekend, A/C on all the time. Then, A/C stopped working. After turning the car off while gassing up for about 20 minutes, it worked again for 10 minutes or so, then quit altogether.

There was a jingling or ringing noise from the belt area, I am guessing it is from the compressor. After the last 100 miles home, ringing is still present and now there is a horribly loud grinding noise if the car is started. Have not driven it since arriving home.

Can anyone tell me what this might be? I am basically thinking I will need to replace the compressor and recharge the A/C system, does this sound like a good course of action?

Thanks,
Jason

Response From zmame Top Rated Answer

does it make the sound with the A/C turned off?