Buy Discount Ford F100 Parts

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle

Choose a Year for your Ford F-100

  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1973
  • 1972
  • 1971
  • 1970
  • 1969
  • 1968
  • 1967
  • 1966
  • 1965
  • 1964
  • 1963
  • 1962
  • 1961
  • 1960
  • 1959
  • 1958
  • 1957
  • 1956
  • 1955
  • 1954
  • 1953
Show More Years

Showing 1 - 10 of 18,221 Products.

Refine Your Search

Cardone
1972 Ford F-100 Steering Gear Cardone

P311-51CDEC4    Remanufactured

Qty:
$100.21
Cardone Steering Gear
  • Power Steering Gear - Domestic
  • Inline filter available
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Power Steering Gear
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Hose Port Type: O-ring
    • Input Shaft Diameter: 0.725"
    • Input Shaft Spline Count: 35 + Blank Groove
    • Input Shaft Type: Splined, Grooved
    • Number of Mounting Holes: 3
    • Output Shaft Diameter: 1.312"
    • Package Contents: Gear Instruction Sheet (2), Flushing Instruction, Instruction Tag, Sealing Kit
    • Pitman Arm Included: No
    • Pressure Port Thread Size: M18 X 1.5
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Pump Rotation: Standard
    • Return Port Thread Size: M16 X 1.5
    • Steering Box Type: Power Steering
    • Total Turns Lock to Lock: 3.3 Or 4.0
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Steering Gears are the component within a car’s steering system that guides the wheel’s movement in conjunction with the direction that the steering wheel is rotated, helping achieve ideal steering response for more efficient driving. The micro-finished surfaces of it's shafts are precision-designed to provide a smoother drive, while the factory-set Pitman shaft transmits the motion it receives from the gear box by moving the wheels left or right to turn the wheels. OEM grade O-rings and seals are used and meet required specifications, providing you a quality product both you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Region
1972 - Ford F-100 4 X 2 United States
Bosch
1978 Ford F-100 Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Bosch

P311-20AC830    New

Qty:
$5.17
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade  Front
  • Bosch DirectConnect Wiper Blade
  • DirectConnect
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 15
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
  • Bosch DirectConnect Wiper Blades are designed for dependable wiping performance. Every blade incorporates dual steel tension springs and a precision cut natural rubber wiping element. That means premium wiping performance and a clear view. And the exclusive Bosch DirectConnect one-step system makes installation quick and easy.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1978 - Ford F-100 Front
Bosch
1977 Ford F-100 Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Bosch

P311-0A68202    New

Qty:
$8.66
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade  Front
  • Bosch Micro Edge Wiper Blade
  • Micro Edge
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber W/graphite
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 15
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
  • Bosch Micro Edge Wiper Blades are designed for dependable wiping performance. Every blade incorporates a fully-enclosed metal tension spring and a precision cut natural rubber wiping element. That means premium wiping performance and crystal clear visibility for safer driving. And the exclusive Bosch DirectConnect one-step system makes installation quick and easy.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1977 - Ford F-100 Front
TRW
1983 Ford F-100 Differential Mount TRW

P311-40736CC    New

Qty:
$41.81
TRW Differential Mount
  • Production: -09/01/1983
  • Set of 2 Mounts
Brand: TRW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1983 - Ford F-100
Bosch
1980 Ford F-100 Windshield Wiper Blade Bosch

P311-19EEF4F    New

Qty:
$10.87
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber W/graphite
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 18
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Ford F-100
Bosch
1981 Ford F-100 Windshield Wiper Blade Bosch

P311-19EEF4F    New

Qty:
$10.87
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber W/graphite
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 18
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1981 - Ford F-100
Bosch
1981 Ford F-100 Windshield Wiper Blade Bosch

P311-19EEF4F    New

Qty:
$10.87
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber W/graphite
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 18
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1981 - Ford F-100
Bosch
1980 Ford F-100 Windshield Wiper Blade Bosch

P311-19EEF4F    New

Qty:
$10.87
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber W/graphite
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 18
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Ford F-100
Denso
1979 Ford F-100 Spark Plug Denso

P311-5BDD505    New

Qty:
$3.15
Denso Spark Plug
  • MA16PR-U11 ND
  • MA16PR-U11 ND
Brand: Denso
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1979 - Ford F-100
Denso
1976 Ford F-100 Spark Plug Denso

P311-557B9F0    New

Qty:
$3.38
Denso Spark Plug
  • U-Groove Plug
Brand: Denso
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1976 - Ford F-100

Showing 1 - 10 of 18,221 Products.


Latest Ford F100 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Engine Overhaul Manual for a Ford 300 six cylinder

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From screensman on Engine Overhaul Manual for a Ford 300 six cylinder

Anyone know where to get or find a engine overhaul repair manual for a ford 300 six cylinder (4.9 liter)? It is in a 1975 Ford F-100 Pickup.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

I don’t know if this helps?

http://www.carjunky.com/site/automotive-books.html

Or this?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/1975-75-Ford-Truck-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual_W0QQitemZ300106172120QQihZ020QQcategoryZ34221QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

But it shouldn’t be hard to find a manual but you may have to shell out a few coins to get one.

Dan.

1975 Ford F-100 Won't Start

Showing 5 out of 9 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Grif on 1975 Ford F-100 Won't Start

Howdy folks,
I have a 1975 Ford F-100 pickup that won't start. I think I've got it narrowed down to a lack of spark because I smell fuel when I turn the starter. Also, I tested for a spark with a plug tester light and the results were a little strange. With the starter cranking, the test light lit on cylinders 1 & 2 (driver's side of engine) but no light on cylinders 5 & 6 (passenger side). It's a V8 and I didn't test the other 4 plugs for spark. I bought this truck last summer and the cap and rotor appear to be new and in excellent shape. I replaced the ignition control module because I had an extra one sitting around but that didn't help. Any ideas?
Thanks for your help!
Nick

Response From Grif

OK, sounds like I need to make sure the rotor is spinning like it should. If that's OK, I'll check the plugs. I'm going to forget the light up tester and see if I get a spark by holding the spark plug wire near something metal. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks!

Response From dmac0923

one thing you didnt mention......was it running once before? or it never ran and you just now got around to trying to fix it?

first thought would be corroded terminals on the cap & rotor. take some sand paper and brighten them up.
is the wires firing order is correct?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? If there's ANY with spark it should be able to "distribute" it. It's out there - but does rotor turn when cranking? Dist shaft might not turn - worth looking.

Clean up as suggested and also a genle "blow out" with air inside distributor might get some cobwebs out of there also,

T

Response From Grif

Thanks for the quick replies, guys. I should have mentioned that the truck started and ran fine, I stopped to get gas, and it wouldn't re-start.

I didn't pull out any of the plugs, just connected the tester in series between the plug and plug wire coming from the distributor. I've never used the tester before so I'm not sure how bright it should be. On the 2 plugs I tested with a spark, I got a flashing light which wasn't particularly bright.

Sounds like my coil isn't necessarily bad since the test light indicated a spark on at least 2 cylinders. I'm going to hook the tester to another vehicle to see how bright the light gets. It seemed dim to me on the truck but maybe that's as bright as it gets.

I haven't checked to see if the rotor is turning when cranking...I'll check tonight.

I don't think the carb is flooding...How do I know this other than seeing puddles of gas around it?

Thanks for your help, everybody!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What engine does this have?

Trouble spot for the vintage was carb and choke issues. Make sure it can open and shut while holding throttle up a little just with engine off. You can even see squirts of fuel from accellerator pumps in these.

You saw some spark so if distributor is turning I don't want to badger that with the history of just getting gas and it quit.

Fuel filters were small back then and fuel pumps are rubber parts that can fail easily too. Check everything at the age but think about adding a fuel filter after pump in line to carb that you can see thru. Take line off fuel pump and put a peice of line into a container and see how much it can pump. Fuel pressure is low on these - 4-6 psi or so. If it fills a small can fairly quickly that's good - then look at the fuel to see what it looks like too for junk or whatever.

If lacking fuel it should start for a moment with starting fluid. If not look at a couple easy plugs for being soaked with gas.

Lot's of possibilities so let's get some history on it. Miles if known, if timing chain has been done or don't know. Does automatic choke still work properly.

Spark plug note: This and newer stuff too, plugs that get gas fouled from attempts to start can get wet such that only heat from either running or heating them up will allow them to work again. Air dry doesn't always work at all. The more failed attempts to start it the more the plugs will become an issue even if you fixed or found the trouble. If new plugs are in order quality counts. If they were flooded, leave them out (mark wire locations!) for a good long time helps too.

Hit back - we'll get this going soon,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Agreed this is a spark issue. Now I don't know quite what the set up is for the distributor and the module - a huge box they used to put on fender area underhood - those should show either blue or yellow connector plastic and I don't think they interchange?? Been a while you know!

There were no manual chokes in Fords of the vintage so it's been butchered with some contraption that isn't the up front issue but too bad because it will cause more problems than it solved to do that. They can be fixed to work at intended if you give it some time - so big deal.

Timning chains frequently used nylon on cam gears. Miles or not with age they crack and chunks come out! This would show up as a funny sounding engine when cranking and low intake manifold vacuum at first. They usually will still spin such that rotor in dist will turn. The shaft on some Ford distribs used a lower gear with roll pin that can shear! If so, rotor under cap might just spin around by hand or not turn with cranking. Again - engine might sound funny when cranking and perhaps select just a couple plugs to show fire on! Ah ha!

The module thing: If you have one you knew worked put it back on if for only a test. Check out the heavily greased plug in for that, that it looks good.

Real coil failures are rare and more apt to have a crack (carbon trace) at the tower and fail that way. You would probably see stray sparks there when dark or could stall the engine just spraying it with water but it's already dead so don't do that now.

Try pulling a plug or two and check for spark with the plug out and grounded. Not sure what you are observing with your tester. Thru all the many years I've never found WEAK spark but rather good, none or erratic.

What stinks is wondering about whether plugs are actually firing if they've been wet. I have a couple of K-D tool -- "Portable Ignition Systems" that just have a coil wire and when hooked up sprays spark so hard it blasts thru wet problems and fouled plugs right away and dries them out with a stumbling but running engine and can't find those now new or used and sure are handy as with any ignition failure you can still drive a V8 to get home as long as rotor turns close in distributor. Cool tool!

Keep checking and report what you find. I'm here and perhaps others watching,

T

Response From Grif

Thanks for your help, Tom. Here are the details:

The truck has a Ford 390 engine in it. The previous owner told me the original 360 blew up and it was replaced within the last couple years with a 390 out of another old Ford (it has not been rebuilt, and he told me it had "60-80 thousand miles on it"). The first thing I did at the gas station when it wouldn't start was spray a couple squirts of starter fluid into the carb. It still wouldn't start (not even momentarily) so I figured it was a spark issue. My spark plug light tester seems to indicate it is an electrical problem since I'm getting a spark on some cylinders but not all. I don't know if the timing chain has been replaced recently. It has a manual choke and I assume it is working properly, but perhaps I should check that. I haven't pulled any plugs but it sounds like I should do that. I was hoping this would be a simple thing like switching out my coil or ignition module, but probably not. What do you suggest I try first? Thank you!

Nick

Response From Grif Top Rated Answer

Hey everybody,

I got the truck running. Turns out it was a bad coil. Thanks for your help!

Grif

1985 Ford F100 Oil Pan Gasket ?s

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From emattison on 1985 Ford F100 Oil Pan Gasket ?s

Hi All -

I'm looking for advice on replacing a oil plan gasket. Here are the specs on my vehicle.

1985
Ford
F100 Lariat XLT
351 Windsor
105,000

So this is a low mileage truck that I picked up a year ago. It was in storage for a long time, hence the low mileage. It has a slow leak at the back of the oil pan and while it may the rear main, I'm pretty sure I'm looking at a gasket leak and want to start there for repair.

In looking at the repair manual, it says that I have to drop the engine to replace this gasket.

My question is, is this really necessary on this vehicle?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

EM

Response From Discretesignals

No, you don't have to pull the engine out. There is a trick to that. Drop the pan with the engine in the truck (which you wont be able to get out and it will set on the crossmember). Remove the old gasket. Clean up the surfaces. Put your dabs of silicone at the four corners.

Don't use the cork gasket kit. That's a piece of ^&$%. Get a Felpro permadry gasket. The gasket is rubber. Stretch (rubber stretches) the gasket over and around the oil pan to get it where you need it. Bolt the pan back up and torque the bolts to 10 ft lbs.

Response From emattison Top Rated Answer

Awesome! Thanks for the advice. This helps a ton and may have saved $500.

Eric M.

1972 Ford F100 won't stay running when i put it in gear

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From burlee on 1972 Ford F100 won't stay running when i put it in gear

i have a 1972 ford pickup that runs great until i put in drive or reverse then it dies and takes several cranks to restart. i have set the timing 6 degrees tdc, also new points and condenser. and vaclum lines replaced. then replaced the fuel pump, filter, and excel pump also. it has 302 engine, 2 bbl car, auto trans, and has about 38,000 mile on rebuilt motor. any help would be great

Response From Sidom

Cover the top of the carb with your hand & see if that will get it to idle. If it does, twist the carb and make sure it isn't loose on the base plate. If it isn't get a can of carb clean and start checking for vacuum leaks...

Also double check the adjustment on the points with a dwell meter, I believe the setting is 28° but check the manual, it's been eons since I have had to put in a set of points....

Do they still come with that capsule of grease for the cam? When guys would ask me want it was for, I would tell them "you eat it and then in about 10 minutes you'll automatically know what the dwell setting is"......

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Wow, I'm impressed................LOL
I though you used carburetors for fishing sinkers..LOL

1980 ford f100 wireing problems

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From 1980_FORD_F100 on 1980 ford f100 wireing problems

i have a question i have a 1980 ford f100 custom with a 4.9L inline 6 i recently put in a pioneer 200w sterio system with aprox. 8 speakers they all work but when i turn on the the sterio and then i turn on my parking lights via the headlight swich the radio goes off and everything is off exept the parking lights and the courtesy light in the cab i replaced all the fuses so i could get all the guages to work but they dont work atall for some reason and i checked all the wires and the chassis grounds and cleaned them and i also tryed disconnecting the system and then tryed disconnecting all the speakers exept for 2 to see if that made a diffrence but still the problem resulted in power failure can anyone help me find the sorce of the problem?
thanks

1980 ford f100

Response From DrElectrics Top Rated Answer

Sounds like you have tapped into your headlight power with the power wire for you stereo. Try an alternative power source. Use the memory wire on your brake lights. Brake lights have continuous power. Wire your stereo to your ACC, on your ignition. Also, buy an amp. 8 speakers from 1 head unit is a lot of load.