Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Fog Light

Choose a Year for your Toyota 's Fog Light

  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • TYC
    TYC

Best Selling Genuine Toyota Fog Lights

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including TYC
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Toyota Replacement Fog Light Parts

We stock Fog Light parts for most Toyota models, including Echo, Highlander, MR2 Spyder, Prius.

TYC
2005 Toyota Highlander Fog Light TYC

P311-1178C2A    New

Qty:
$101.85
TYC Fog Light
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Toyota Highlander
TYC
2004 Toyota Highlander Fog Light TYC

P311-1178C2A    New

Qty:
$101.85
TYC Fog Light
  • Production: 08/01/2003-
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Toyota Highlander
TYC
2007 Toyota Highlander Fog Light TYC

P311-1178C2A    New

Qty:
$101.85
TYC Fog Light
  • Production: -04/30/2007
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Toyota Highlander
TYC
2003 Toyota Echo Fog Light TYC

P311-1178C2A    New

Qty:
$101.85
TYC Fog Light
  • Production: 08/01/2002-
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Toyota Echo
TYC
2009 Toyota Prius Fog Light TYC

P311-1178C2A    New

Qty:
$101.85
TYC Fog Light
  • Production: -03/31/2009
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Toyota Prius
TYC
2005 Toyota Highlander Fog Light TYC

P311-23A37B5    New

Qty:
$102.35
TYC Fog Light
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Toyota Highlander
TYC
2004 Toyota Highlander Fog Light TYC

P311-23A37B5    New

Qty:
$102.35
TYC Fog Light
  • Production: 08/01/2003-
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Toyota Highlander
TYC
2007 Toyota Highlander Fog Light TYC

P311-23A37B5    New

Qty:
$102.35
TYC Fog Light
  • Production: -04/30/2007
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Toyota Highlander
TYC
2003 Toyota Echo Fog Light TYC

P311-23A37B5    New

Qty:
$102.35
TYC Fog Light
  • Production: 08/01/2002-
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Toyota Echo
TYC
2009 Toyota Prius Fog Light TYC

P311-23A37B5    New

Qty:
$102.35
TYC Fog Light
  • Production: -03/31/2009
Brand: TYC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Toyota Prius

Latest Toyota Repair and Fog Light Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2007 Toyota Low Beams

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From MrorMrswiz on 2007 Toyota Low Beams

I have a 2007 corolla S 5 speed. Low beam lights stopped working at the same time. I have done lots of digging. Solutions attempted:

DRL swith under brake turne it over. Did not work
Under steering wheel yellow wire (see picture). Did not work
Checked one of the low beam filiments, appears to be good


Here is the infor on the yellow wire:
I couldn't take the headlights turning off and on during bright sunlight so I decided to disable the automatic headlights and the DRL's. In order to do this I simply snipped the yellow wire going to the DRL module above the gas and brake pedal, then grounded the side that goes to the module and covered the other side. There was a convenient ground right by the module that I used. I tested it out and couldn't find any ill side effects. No DRL's and I don't have to mess with any brake wiring. The yellow wire is a signal that the car is running. If the yellow wire is grounded the module doesn't think the car is running and if it's not grounded it thinks it's running.

Here is a picture:



http://www.corollaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33&stc=1&d=1352667974

Response From Discretesignals

Do the high beams work?

Response From MrorMrswiz Top Rated Answer

High beams work & fog lights work also.

Response From Discretesignals

If the high beams work, that means the headlamp module is turning on the headlamp relay to supply power to the high beams. That doesn't mean the module is turning on the head lamp relay when the low beams are commanded on.

You really need to get hold of a wiring diagram for this system and use a volt meter to find out what has power and what doesn't.

Response From MarineGrunt

Isn't there a separate relay or fuse for the low and high beams? I know it's a different vehicle but I believe there is on my wife's Envoy. Probably not it but thought I throw it out there.

Response From Discretesignals

If you reconnect the yellow generator sense wire, do your low beams work?

Response From MrorMrswiz

No. That was my last thing I did. I tried all mods which were easy. Could it be th low beams.? Or the level on the side. I have schedule recall repair for ECM. But I am confident it's not the problem

lots of smoke frum alternator

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From koontzy on lots of smoke frum alternator

I have a92 Toyota that I have put a 88 ford 5.0 in bran new battery and cables using a gm one wire alternator they will work for about a quarter of a mile and than smoke enough to make most diesel owners jealous have checked the cables to make sure that they are tight and were not rubbing any where, their is no draw with key off I have switched the v belt pulley with the ford serpentine pulley on the alternator's don't thank that should mater but maybe.

Response From Discretesignals

From reading your post don't know if the smoke it coming from the alternator or battery cables. How do you have it wired up?

Response From koontzy Top Rated Answer

after doing more test and research i found out that a stock gm one wire alt puts out 63 amps and that with the electric cooling fans motor running that i am drawing 68 amps i was shocked to find that but now understand the rapid melt downs pull no more than 80 amps with every thing on including the head lights i am going with a 100 amp alt just in case i decide to add any thing else like fog lights this little ops has made me a lot more aware of how borderline most charging systems are

Response From Hammer Time

What exactly is drawing 68 amps?

The average consumption of a cooling fan is about 12 to 18 amps. What else is sucking up that current?

Response From koontzy

it has two cooling fans that draw 25 amps at peak they level out at 18 amps the truck and battery take 50 with headlights on the higher out put alt has seamed to take care of it but put in a 100 amp fuse on the charge wire with a 105 amp alt just in case

Response From Hammer Time

That still sounds like too much output but if you have the problem resolved, great.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

One post on a subject please the other removed.


What are you even thinking of? This makes no sense whatsoever. At least carry a fire extinguisher till this nonsense ends in a destroyed Toyota what ever it is,


T

Response From koontzy

cheaper and way more power than the junk 3.0 it had

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't think it's possible for this thread to go anywhere. I'm out,


T

Response From koontzy

the wiring was kept as simple as I could the positive battery cable goes to the starter to the alt and to the fuse box the negative cable goes to the block and fender added one from the fire wall to the block

Response From koontzy

the smoke is coming from the alternator has burned up two in less than 24 hours

Blinking AC button

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From elmariachi on Blinking AC button

2003 Toyota Sequoia
4.7L V8
~130K miles


The AC button on the dash of my 2003 Sequoia has starting blinking. When I press it on it will start to blow cold air but after about 5 seconds it will start to blink on and off and the cold air will stop blowing (air continues to blow). I've searched the web and found two likely causes the ac compressor clutch and the Magnetic Clutch relay. Several post I found said to take out the relay and tap it on a hard surface to get it "unstuck". This didn't help in my case. I also swapped out the mag. clutch relay with others found in the various fuse boxes. None seemed to fix the situation.

I then swapped out the clutch hoping this would fix my problem. No luck there either. The problem still persists as usual. I can hear the clutch kick in but after a few seconds it disengages and doesn't come back on.

I changed the relay and still no luck. Anyone else have any ideas? Everything on the net says it's the relay or clutch and having changed both it still doesn't work. Will blow cold air for a ~6sec then the light starts blinking. I'm hesitant to change to compressor since it does blow cold air. The compressor spun freely when I was changing the clutch so I don't think it's a seized bearing.

Does anyone have an idea for a new area to look at. The ac does blow cold air. If I keep pushing the button back on after it starts to blink it will blow cold air, but as soon as the clutch disengages it will start to blink again. This gets old pretty fast. Sometimes after doing this a few times it will fix itself and stay on until we shut-off the car. I guess there is a possibility that the relays I swapped in are going bad too, but there doesn't seem to be a problem in those components they (i.e., the horn, fog lights, etc.)

Response From Hammer Time

You're getting some bad information.

That system uses an RPM sensor in the compressor to tell the control head what is going on and the control head will shut the system down accordingly. Most anything can trigger a shutdown.

This needs to be diagnosed by an A/C specialist as it will be very hard to pinpoint correctly.

Response From curtie94 Top Rated Answer

You're getting some bad information.

That system uses an RPM sensor in the compressor to tell the control head what is going on and the control head will shut the system down accordingly. Most anything can trigger a shutdown.

This needs to be diagnosed by an A/C specialist as it will be very hard to pinpoint correctly.

I can't say this is your issue, but I know someone that had the same issue and it ended up being the compressor clutch. This was also in a toyota around the same year. But also check your belt tension if the compressor isn't spinning the same as the engine then it will trip the switch and cause the light to blink.

But hammer is right it will take a specialist to tell you what is wrong.

Response From Hammer Time

That's right. A bad clutch, loose belt, binding compressor from high pressure, bad RPM sensor, bad control head or any related wiring will all have the same result.

This question has been dead for a while so we should be staying away from it now.