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alternator blows fuse upn rev

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Question From rickknecht on alternator blows fuse upn rev

I have a 1990 Jeep Wrangler with the 2.5 four cylinder. Ran very good. I noticed the ammeter gauge started to get lower and lower over about a week’s time. Then one day it dropped to red and I barely made it home before battery was dead.

So I figured it needed a new alternator. Took it to Advanced and they tested it first time and said it was fine. I put it back on. The Jeep has a fusible link that contains a 30 amp fuse in the wire path from the alternator to the battery. This fuse was blown. I replaced it. But the fuse blows again if you rev up the engine. As long as you don’t rev the engine, the ammeter shows proper charge. But rev the engine and the fuse blows and stops the charging altogether.

Took alternator to different store. They tested and also said it tested fine. But then they said there was a crack in the alternator case. So they got me to pay $80 for a new alternator (which is non-returnable by the way). Installed the new one and it does the same thing. It blows the fuse if you rev up the engine. Funny thing is that nothing else is affected by this blown fuse. Jeep runs and drives with all accessories even if the fuse is blown. Only charging of battery is affected. I can drive it as long as I manually charge the battery.

Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know where you got the idea this takes a 30amp fuse but it has to be bigger than that. This is most likely a 65 amp or higher alternator and will need a fuse to carry that much. I would replace it with approx 12 gauge fusible link or a 50 to 75 amp fuse.
It will have either a fusible link or a fuse but it won't have both.

Response From rickknecht Top Rated Answer

Two months ago the Jeep had a short while installing fog lights and melted two fusible links. I replaced with this 30 amp inline fuse link. This was the only fusible link they had at the time. It ran like that for two months with no problems.

Thank you for advice. I will replace with a high amp fusible link.

Thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

That is not a fusible link. That is just a fuse and too small of one at that. A fusible link is a special piece of fuse wire that melts when overloaded and that's what's supposed to be there

2004 Jeep Liberty battery not charging properly

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Question From wonderboy2005 on 2004 Jeep Liberty battery not charging properly

Hi guys, I could use some help. First off, the info about the car:

year: 2004
Make: Jeep
Model: Liberty (Renegade)
Engine: 3.7L V6

So here is the problem. A couple days ago, the vehicle started struggling while turning over. After a couple trips, it made a number of clicking noises prior to starting. Finally, it would only make the clicking noise and wouldn't start. When this happened, I assumed it was a battery issue and had someone jump me. When it was jumped, the vehicle started without issue. I drove it for ~20 miles after this to charge the battery, and for a day or so, it seemed to work fine again. However, today it started making the clicking noise.

I assumed there was something wrong with the battery or the charging system, but I'm not entirely sure what it is yet. To test it, I purchased a digital multimeter. Here is what I've discovered so far:

The battery, while not being charged, is putting out ~12.7 volts. Note that this is only prior to a good start; I haven't been able to test the battery immediately before it has failed to start the car.

The alternator is putting out ~14.4 volts while the car is running.

There is no significant resistance between the positive and negative terminals on the battery. The meter reads .1-.2 ohms when touching the leads on the meter to each other, as well as when I attach them to the battery terminals.

I've been able to get the battery to charge via the alternator by going a decent distance (~20 miles). Because of this, I am fairly sure the alternator is not the problem.

I don't have any electrical additions or anything plugged into the battery of the vehicle that could be draining the battery. I did have a cell phone charger attached to the cigarette lighter, but I removed it as a troubleshooting step after the first incident. The issue came back, so I assume that the cell phone charger is not the culprit.

As an additional note, the issue started happening immediately after I switched jobs. This is significant because my previous job required that I drive ~50 miles a day. I can walk to my new job, and thus only use the vehicle for short trips in town, which likely are not allowing the battery to recharge like my previous daily commute.

My guess at this point is that my battery needs to be replaced. However, I'd like to hit up those more knowledgeable than I to determine if this is the case and to determine if any additional troubleshooting should be done.

That being said, any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.


Response From Sidom

1st let me start off with saying "good job" on the thorough inspection.

You've used some good methods and sound logic. You've pretty much narrowed it down to a battery problem. The next step would be to load test the battery and that should tell you for sure if it's capable of holding a full charge. If this is the OE battery for the vehicle, then the odds are very high it's bad.....

Normally I would just leave it at that but due to how in depth you went checking this out, I'll just offer a couple of variations you may or may not want to use.

Another way to check for excessive resistance in the circuit would be to do a voltage drop test on the circuit while under load (running or cranking). To test the cables you would probe the batt term with the pos probe and the cable end with the neg probe. while running, anything over .3 v would indicate a resistance problem. Reverse the probes to check the negative side and on the ground side you don't want to see any more than a .2v drop on a loaded circuit... While using an ohm meter will catch a resistance problem, the thing is you aren't testing a loaded circuit and some problems won't show up until the circuit is loaded....

Another test besides loading a battery would be to check the specific gravity with a hydrometer. A fully charged good battery will show an SP of around 1.265. For this test to be accurate the battery needs to be fully slow charged just for the fact the cells can discharge at a different rate & give false reading. On a fully charge battery you don't want to see more than a 50pt variation. If you do a individual cell probe you would be looking for around 2.2 volts per cell and no more of a .5v variation...

State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage 100% 1.265 75% 1.225 50% 1.190 25% 1.155 Discharged 1.120

You have used some good methods in tracing this down and I just offered a couple of different ways of "getting there". If you have any questions about this, just google "voltage drop testing" or " battery specific gravity"

It looks like the charging system is working by charging at 14.4. You could load the system by turning everything on, especially the heated back glass if it's equipped with it....Fully load the most you would want to see would be a 1 v drop any more would indicate the alt may not be able to keep up with the demand....

As far as a parasitic draw. If you have an amp meter or clamp. Hook it up to one of the batt cables with everything off & you don't want to see any more that .50-.75 Ma draw on the system. A quick check method would be to hook a test light between the neg terminal and cable while it's disconnected and the light should stay out. If it comes on there may be a draw but this method isn't 100%

Good job..... I enjoy reading posts like this

Response From wonderboy2005 Top Rated Answer

Thanks Sidom, I appreciate your help.

The battery does appear to be the original. It is a Daimler-Chrystler branded battery. I can't say for sure, as I have only owned the car for the past 9 months.

I loaded down the alternator by turning on AC, rear defroster, headlights, bottom fog lights, top fog lights, and the radio. The voltage changed from about 14.38 to 14.30. Nothing significant, so I think we've ruled out the alternator.

I hooked up my multimeter in series with the battery and cable to check the parasitic draw. My meter says its drawing ~25 µA without anything on or plugged in. This seems definitely acceptable, maybe even low. I doubt this is my problem either.

I also checked for resistance while running, as you suggested. The measured voltage was ~.3v, so I think we're good on that front too.

I think I'm going to spring for a new battery. Even if its not the issue, It won't hurt to have a new one.

Thanks again for your help.


Response From Sidom

No problem..... Glad it was an easy fix.....

Response From wonderboy2005

The battery seems to have been the problem. I had it replaced, and it starts like a champ. I'll keep an eye on it just in case, but I feel pretty confident that its working properly now.


Need help with wiring a three position switch in my jeep

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Question From Jeepercasey on Need help with wiring a three position switch in my jeep

Hey everybody, new to the forum and having trouble with some wiring issues. I'm trying to wire up my two sets of rock lights in my jeep to a three position switch. I'd like to have the down position for my rock lights to turn on and off with my dome lights. Center will be a hard off and up will be my other set of rock lights on by them selves. My problem is I've got everything wired up and set up but it's not working out how I want. My set of rock lights spliced with my domes work great whenever my switch isn't powered but I can't turn on my other rock lights by them selves obviously. When my switch is powered my rock lights that are spliced into my domes won't turn off with the domes. They just stay on. I've wired in a 1n4001 diode into the wire that I have spliced from my dome into my switch. Please help!!! I'm obviously missing something and really don't know enough about wiring to figure this out. Thanks in advance!

Response From Discretesignals

Can you draw a wiring diagram of how you currently have your circuit configured?

Response From Jeepercasey

Having trouble uploading photo. Here's a description.

My switch is three position: top is to my rock lights spliced into my dome with a diode and the ground to the "dome rocks" the diode is in the direction of my switch on my wire that connects my rocks spliced to my dome into my switch. I just want these to come on and off with domes.

Middle position is to my battery with an inline fuse. This planned to be my hard off (no rocks atall)

Bottom is straight to my outer rock lights. So only my designated offroad rock lights. No dome

I have two sets of rock lights to make this clear.

I have a 5 pole relay but no clue how to wire it up to make this work.

When I power up my switch it almost works as I want, only problem is my "dome rocks" won't ever dim and when I switch them on to go with my domes both my domes and "dome rocks" stay on at all time.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Thats because your switch is supplying power to the domes and rock lights in that position. A 5 pole basic relay will have it terminals numbered.

terminals 85 and 86 are your control circuit. If you put power to one and ground to the other you will hear a click, which is the pull-in windings closing the contacts to allow power to your device. Terminal 30 should be where your fused 12v power for the lights is. Terminal 87a will transfer power between it and terminal 30 when the relay is not energized. When it is energized (power and ground at 85 and 86), the contacts close allowing current flow between terminal 30 and terminal 87. Terminal 87 is where you would hook up your power lead to the rock lights.

So if you wire up the relay I think we can make this work. You are going to need to adjust which terminals you are using on the switch and you need to install the relay or you are going to blow the dome light switch every time you open your door. I want you to run 12v fused power to terminal 30. Run your rock light power lead to terminal 87. Connect terminal 86 to chassis ground. Terminal 85 runs to the 12v input terminal of your switch. Run a jumper off your dome light power wire to the top position of the switch. Run another 12v power (small fuse on that circuit, 2.5 or 5 amp. Remember, it takes less than an amp to run that relay) to the bottom position.

When the switch is in the top position, you will have contact between the dome light and the control side of the relay. When your dome light gets energized, power flows to the relay which turn on the rock lights. The added current load of less than 1 amp that the relay uses will not blow the fuse to your dome lights. When the switch is in the bottom position, you are making contact between the control circuit of the relay and the 12v power you have supplied, so the relay will keep the rock lights on.

I would recommend also to get a little cheap LED and wire it's power source into terminal 87. Mount it somewhere on your dash. When the lights are on it comes on. This way if you are driving down the road and accidently turn them on you know about it before the cops pull you over to inform you about it.

Did something similar to this once on my old Suburban, probably going to do it again to my Bronco. I had mounted some cheap fog lights to each side of my trailer hitch. Wired my relay up to be triggered by my backup lights. Had a switch to allow me to keep them on. Worked great when trying to hook up to trailers or when off-road on a trail, as my windows were tinted and the puny factory lights don't help much. I made sure I had an LED to warn me if they were on.

If you don't quite get how I'm telling you to wire this up, send me a PM. Maybe I can draw something up and send it to you in an e-mail. Its actually pretty easy when you go and do it.

Response From Jeepercasey

This is really awesome. Although I'm going to have to read it a few times before I fully understand what to do. Also I'm going outta town tomorrow for at least a week and a half so unless I can get this done tomorrow morning may be a while to hear how it comes out. Regardless thank you so much and I let ya know if I need a drawing, I have a feeling that would help. Thanks again

Response From nickwarner

Even though you're in a mostly dry climate, you might want to use some heat shrink connectors and mount the relay up under the dash. I'm sure you're no stranger to getting in wet slimy stuff off road and getting corrosion in the connections will have you out on a trail on a night run and suddenly no rock lights. No fun when that happens. Get some split loom for the wiring you are putting together and zip tie it up real secure. You know how things get bounced around, don't want anything pulling apart. Gives it a nice clean look when you're done.

Post back on your thread when you get this done. If you want to upload pics of it, Photobucket works very well on this site. Happy wheeling.

Response From Jeepercasey

Actually down in houston (swamp) but yeah I heat shrieked everything but thanks for reminding me. Still out of town and will be until next Wednesday probably so haven't been able to try your suggestion yet.

Response From Jeepercasey

Absolutely, I'll have it back on here later.

Response From nickwarner

Are you running direct power through this switch or using it to control relays? I'd be using relays on this one. Control circuit draws just milliapms of current. You can wire it so that the dome light circuit will trigger the relay and them allow the switch to do so as well.