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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • AISIN
    AISIN
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    Beck Arnley
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    Four Seasons
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    GMB
  • Global Parts
    Global Parts
  • Hayden
    Hayden
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Best Selling Genuine Nissan Fan Clutches

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Hayden, AISIN
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Nissan Replacement Fan Clutch Parts

We stock Fan Clutch parts for most Nissan models, including 300ZX, Armada, D21, Frontier, Maxima, Pathfinder, Pickup, Titan, Xterra.

Hayden
1995 Nissan Pickup Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 6 Cyl 3.0L Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-4D7989B    2664  New

9502060 , 1540303 , A5539 , 402238 , 2650TA , KG2650 , 36743 , FC84 , GC835 , A74349 , FFC5750T , 2911259 , 2911342 , 1300132 , 1550704 , 4891 , 7136908 , 9502010 , 22025 , A74350 , 1300157 , FC2650 , 22091 , 402650 , 1540073 , GC956 , 1300154 , 36705 , 115091 , 36908 , 1550705 , 2650 , 230238 , KG2664 , 36769 , LF238 , 2911310 , 140042 , FFC5664T , 1300127 , 140152 , 1300183

Qty:
$52.87
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Standard Rotation Thermal Standard Duty Fan Clutch
  • Standard Rotation Standard Duty Thermal Fan Clutch New Part
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Thread:
      • M6 X 1.0 Hole
      • M6x1.000
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 6.2
    • Clutch Type: A - 5" & 6" Import
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 2.357
      • 2.36
    • Drawing Type: A
    • Duty Rating: Standard
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN:
      • 5.65
      • 5.66
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 143.5
      • 143.51
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN: 5.07
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 128.8
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 59.9
    • Mount Dia. IN: 3.000
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Type: Flange
    • New or Reman: New
    • Overall Dia. MM: 157.5
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 2.927
      • 2.94
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 74.346
      • 74.6
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.5
    • Pilot Depth MM: 12.7
    • Pilot Dia. IN:
      • .63 To 1.26
      • 0.630 To 1.260
    • Rotation: Std
    • Style: Standard Duty
  • Designed, tested, and built by application; OE performance, fit, and appearance; Precision machined; Out of box installation
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Nissan Pickup V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2960
AISIN
1981 Nissan Maxima Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 6 Cyl 2.4L AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/1980-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1981 - Nissan Maxima L 6 Cyl 2.4L - 2393 Fr:07-00-80
AISIN
1979 Nissan 810 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1979 - Nissan 810
AISIN
1984 Nissan Maxima Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -07/1984
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1984 - Nissan Maxima To:07-00-84
AISIN
1987 Nissan Pathfinder Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 6 Cyl 3.0L AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/1986-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1987 - Nissan Pathfinder Manual V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2960 Fr:07-00-86
AISIN
1989 Nissan D21 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 6 Cyl 3.0L AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/1989
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1989 - Nissan D21 Manual V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2960 To:08-00-89
AISIN
1986 Nissan D21 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 6 Cyl 3.0L AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/1985-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1986 - Nissan D21 V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2960 Fr:11-00-85
AISIN
1987 Nissan D21 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 6 Cyl 3.0L AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -06/1987
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1987 - Nissan D21 V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2960 To:06-00-87
AISIN
1988 Nissan D21 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch 6 Cyl 3.0L AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/1987-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1988 - Nissan D21 Manual V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2960 Fr:07-00-87
AISIN
1972 Nissan 240Z Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/1971-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1972 - Nissan 240Z Fr:08-00-71
AISIN
1973 Nissan 240Z Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -07/1973
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1973 - Nissan 240Z To:07-00-73
AISIN
1974 Nissan 260Z Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/1973-11/1974
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1974 - Nissan 260Z Fr:08-00-73 To:11-00-74
AISIN
1975 Nissan 280Z Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 12/1974-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1975 - Nissan 280Z Fr:12-00-74
AISIN
1978 Nissan 280Z Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -06/1978
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1978 - Nissan 280Z To:06-00-78
AISIN
1979 Nissan 280ZX Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/1978-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1979 - Nissan 280ZX Fr:07-00-78
AISIN
1981 Nissan 280ZX Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 12/01/1980-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Prod. Date Range
1981 - Nissan 280ZX Naturally Aspirated Fr:12-01-80
AISIN
1983 Nissan 280ZX Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -06/1983
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Prod. Date Range
1983 - Nissan 280ZX Naturally Aspirated To:06-00-83
AISIN
1977 Nissan 810 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/1976-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1977 - Nissan 810 Fr:07-00-76
AISIN
1980 Nissan 810 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -06/1980
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1980 - Nissan 810 To:06-00-80
AISIN
1981 Nissan 280ZX Engine Cooling Fan Clutch AISIN

P311-2B81FC0    W0133-1620057  New

Qty:
$82.56
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -11/30/1980
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1981 - Nissan 280ZX To:11-30-80

Latest Nissan Repair and Fan Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2005 xterra ac issues

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From ericwalker on 2005 xterra ac issues

My 2005 xterra ac works on the lowest blower setting but shuts off when the blower is set from 2-4 position. What's more the blower will not operate properly when set to position 1 and 2. So, if I want cold air I put the ac on in the 1st position, and then put it in the 4th position in order to push the cold air generated, out of the vents, then it eventually (within 5 seconds) warms up. I am currently waiting for a new fan clutch (back ordered). I know from dealer that this is bad and will replace myself when it comes in.

Response From Hammer Time

If you know you have a bad fan clutch then you shouldn't even be trying to operate the A/C unless you want to spend another $800 when the compressor implodes and takes the rest of the system with it.

You probably need a blower resister for the blower problem.

Response From ericwalker

Thanks, so if the ac still works on position one and I fix the fan clutch all should be operational?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You need to fix that first. You said it blows cold for a short time on high speed so is that because compressor shut down or not enough cooling at evaporator behaving like low charge which has its own complications if so. Known issues first then on to the final fix which I think lurks,

T

Response From ericwalker

Thanks for input. I will repair fan clutch, keep ac off in meantime..Can you tell me what you think what the "lurking problem(s)" will be?

Response From Hammer Time

No, repair the glaring problems and then see what you have.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

ericwarner: Too early just yet as said by all. You want to guess on this is only guessing till known good fan is operational. Just with the history that it can blow cool for a very short time would be either compressor shuts down or capacity to provide sufficient "condensed" refrigerant to evaporator is compromised.

Let's not take the college course in the whole thing till some known problems are fixed. As HT said - DON'T run A/C with the symptoms. The warning is because proper refrigerant flow is carrying the oils critical to compressor or can blow the whole show up trashing the system that probably isn't all burned out now but can't say that yet either,

T

Response From ericwalker Top Rated Answer

Hello, thanks for help thus far. My last post was regarding help with my a/c in 2005 nissan xterra. The fan Clutch was bad and have since fixed it though the a/c does not work properly... When the blower is in position 1, the a/c works but when I up the blower it shuts off... I did run a/c when fan clutch was bad (did not know it was bad, check engine light did not come on..) Any thoughts as to why a/c does not operate?

Response From Hammer Time

What would the check engine light have to do with the fan clutch?

You may have severely damaged your compressor by running it with a bad fan clutch but your blower issues are either a blower switch or a blower resister, more likely the resister as you were already advised back in September.

Response From ericwalker

Hello, been a while..thanks for your help thus far. So, I had the fan clutch repaired. I turned on a/c and it still does not seem to be working properly. It is colder now on the east coast so it is hard to tell when I turn it on, though the ac indicator light does not go on..I want to try and pinpoint obviously to determine if I should proceed in fixing myself, or take it to the shop..

Response From Hammer Time

Don't even try to use the A/C with a bad fan clutch.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There's more to this than a fan clutch which it may need and a blower resistor as blower shouldn't give a damn if it blows warm or cool air. When those two are working properly then some better diagnosing should help target the next issue,

T

1990 Nissan Pickup - Overheating/No Heat

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From Britches on 1990 Nissan Pickup - Overheating/No Heat

Hello,

I have a 1990 Nissan pickup. Right now it has no thermostat and runs no higher than the "C" on the temperature gauge. If the thermostat is installed, it runs hot. Here's a timeline of what's happened to it as well as what's been done to it:

1. Timing chain wore a hole in the timing chain cover causing the truck to overheat.
2. Timing chain cover was replaced and a new timing chain kit was installed.
3. Truck was overheating so we turned the heat on to help cool engine and no heat came out of vents.
4. New water pump and thermostat were installed.
5. Truck was still overheating and still had no heat so I had someone check for blockage in the lines and none were found.

I really want to get the thermostat installed so I can get it up to operating temperature. Why does it run hot when the thermostat is installed and why is there no heat?

Thanks in advance!

Response From jespo

You need the t-stat for the heater to work . So open the radiator cap, start it, look inside the radiator see if the fluid is moving, if not the radiator is blocked. Usually it would be the t-stat but because you don't have one it can't be that. Also look at the upper and lower radiator hoses see if they squeeze shut by themselves, if so replace. Make sure radiator is full of 25% water and 75% anti-freeze or all anti-freeze. A bad tune up would also make it over heat. No oil will make it over heat. Bad carb will make it over heat.

Response From Britches

If the radiator was blocked, wouldn't the truck overheat with the thermostat out? I assumed the radiator wasn't blocked because I figured if it was, the truck would overheat even without the thermostat in. However, without the thermostat, it runs super cool. With the thermostat, it overheats.
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You need the t-stat for the heater to work . So open the radiator cap, start it, look inside the radiator see if the fluid is moving, if not the radiator is blocked. Usually it would be the t-stat but because you don't have one it can't be that. Also look at the upper and lower radiator hoses see if they squeeze shut by themselves, if so replace. Make sure radiator is full of 25% water and 75% anti-freeze or all anti-freeze. A bad tune up would also make it over heat. No oil will make it over heat. Bad carb will make it over heat.

Response From Britches

Someone suggested it might be a blown head gasket. What are you guy's thoughts on this?

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

Signs of blown gasket, steam from exhaust pipe/sometimes rough running/overflow of antifreeze, do a compression check when in dout, you could have a bad temp sending unit?,does this vehicle have a fan clutch.The last time I ran into a problem like this I had found several cooling passages clogged up with corrosion thru out the heads and block

Response From slipperyslope

If the engine wasn`t overheating before the timing chain episode,and wasn`t severely "cooked" when the timing cover wore through,I would think there is most likely air trapped inside the cooling system. Is there a bleed valve anywhere on the engine? If so open the valve with the engine off and add coolant to the system.IT COULD TAKE A WHILE! If no bleed valve see if there is a small hose up high on engine that can be removed to allow air to be bled off. It`s worth a try.

Response From Britches

I'm not sure if this helps, but my mechanic said that both the lines going to the heater core are still cold even when the engine is overheating.

Response From Guest

Just wanted to thank everyone for their help and advice! The problem has been fixed! He flushed the system, installed the thermostat, and bled the system. Now the heat works and the system doesn't overheat. Thanks again!

Response From Guest

You need the t-stat for the heater to work . So open the radiator cap, start it, look inside the radiator see if the fluid is moving, if not the radiator is blocked. Usually it would be the t-stat but because you don't have one it can't be that. Also look at the upper and lower radiator hoses see if they squeeze shut by themselves, if so replace. Make sure radiator is full of 25% water and 75% anti-freeze or all anti-freeze. A bad tune up would also make it over heat. No oil will make it over heat. Bad carb will make it over heat.

If the radiator was blocked, wouldn't the truck overheat with the thermostat out? I assumed the radiator wasn't blocked because I figured if it was, the truck would overheat even without the thermostat in. However, without the thermostat, it runs super cool. With the thermostat, it overheats.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Partially agree with jespo. No t-stat will run a flow of coolant more than useful to just the front of the engine and can be overheating where not detected. Boiling coolant won't transfer heat nor does air in the system.

The radiator is suspect. I'll suggest just 50/50 anti-freeze as higher concentrations don't transfer heat well and alone can cause overheating! NEVER USE STRAIGHT ANTI-FREEZE! Without water anti-freeze will turn to slush when cold and with water stays a liquid.

T-stats are mandatory as they also allow for mixing of the coolant within the engine to be a uniform temp and without one they may only cool locally where the gauge reads the temp. An engine that boils at one end and overheats at the other is highly subject to damage from uneven expansion of metal parts,

T

87 Nissan 4cyl. Pickup Overheating

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From unquity on 87 Nissan 4cyl. Pickup Overheating

I hope someone can help diagnose this issue. The truck has 207,000 miles on it. The temp guage started to go up and then would drop back down to normal. This occurred on highway and city. I had the t-stat replaced and it did not help. I had the radiator replaced and that has not helped. The temp guage will go up and drop down randomly and then run at normal temp for maybe a day or so. When the truck runs hot and I've got the heater on, there is no heat from the heater vents. When the truck runs cool there is heat from the heater vents. The truck is running rough as well (although I was told that could be a vacuum leak). I'm also told that it may be the head gasket (replaced it last year). I'm flummoxed! Any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Couple may-bees for now why this happens:

* The fan clutch could be erratic and you are really overheating to a boil - note that boiling coolant or air will not exchange heat in the heater core for diddle - takes liquid to transfer the heat.

* The air could just be system is low on coolant and reason why to be found out. Head gaskets can put gaseous vapor into cooling system with same behaviour as low coolant and would barf it out if bad enough and that will cause overheating as well.

Suggest you fill with proper 50/50 mix of coolant at radiator. Run till upper hose is hot and let cool. Feel for pressure before opening cap again (just a squeeze you can tell) when cooled off and fill again if need be. Recovery tank is too slow to only fill from there but have that at proper level as well - a range should be indicated for cold or warm engine on the tank.

Now if problem re-occurs I'd go for pressure testing for leaks.

Other oddities include a water pump that doesn't pump well because of corroded impeller or leaks unseen thru vent at specific pressures that may not make themselves clear. Look for those with a mirror if need be.

Note: Vehicles with fan clutches are temp sensitive as to how hard fan will work. When a warm to hot engine is shut off the fan should stop quickly when engine is shut down or that could be the culprit. Overheating for any reason can cause problems with the head gasket all over again or worse the head itself,

T

Response From unquity

Thanks for your reply Tom. I replaced the water pump last year so maybe that could be ruled out. I have noticed some excessive steam from the tailpipe (coolant in there?) and I have had to add coolant frequently, although sometimes after overheating, I've checked and the coolant level is just a tad low. Could a small amount of coolant missing cause the erratic temp changes?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arggh! Adding coolant frequently isn't a good sign along with the excessive 'steam' out tailpipe both suggest head gasket issues or as said the head itself.

When cool enough to add thru radiator cap it may seem just a tad low but thermostat is closed locking air on engine side till it opens, air goes out to recovery tank and supposed to draw back only coolant when it cools down but is probably not capable of that.

Spark plugs can be tell tale of coolant evidence. Usually one or more will look markedly cleaner than others as the coolant acts to clean them or if bad enough show the coolant!

I'd be testing away for head/head gasket issues. If you find that so do sent head out to be checked at a machine shop to verify or fix irregularities or condemn it as NG

Good luck,

T

Response From unquity

Somehow I just knew things were pointing at the head/gasket. If so, what are your thoughts on keeping it on the road. It has served me well (I'm the original owner). Should I let it die with dignity or try to keep it on life support?

Thanks again for your input. It is most appreciated.

Jeff

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Well............. Only you can decide to invest in it or cut losses. Still diagnose the heck out of just what it will need for the fix to help you decide. I've had my share of "love affair" vehicles that I way overspent on but it was too sad to see a good friend go - you know what I mean,

T

Response From unquity

Yeah, I know what you mean. I've sadly gotten attached to an inanimate object or two in my time!

Again, thanks for your input.