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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Four Seasons
    Four Seasons
  • GMB
    GMB
  • Global Parts
    Global Parts
  • Hayden
    Hayden
  • Motorcraft
    Motorcraft

Best Selling Genuine Lincoln Fan Clutches

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Four Seasons, Hayden, Motorcraft, GMB
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Lincoln Replacement Fan Clutch Parts

We stock Fan Clutch parts for most Lincoln models, including Mark LT, Navigator, Town Car.

Four Seasons
2005 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Four Seasons - Fan Clutch

P311-57EBCBF    46052  New

11146052 , KG5826 , 5C3Z8A616A , YB604 , 5C2Z8A616DA , 4L3Z8A616CA , 215104 , F7UZ8A616CA , 5C3Z8A616B , YB3041 , 46041 , 2C6Z8A616AA , YB3054 , 1540502 , 2917 , YB3053 , 5C2Z8A616CA , 9202420 , YB3017 , 216037 , A71643 , 5L3Z8A616CB , 271654 , 5L3Z8A616CA , 9252340 , YB3016 , 19187683 , 22168 , 2916 , F85Z8A616CA , KG2789 , 922917 , 922324 , CWK922917 , KG2786 , A71654 , 271643 , F7UZ8A616DA , 11146041 , 46052

Qty:
$61.83
Four Seasons Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 6.45
    • Clutch Type: D - Severe Duty & Truck Fan Drive
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 2.415
      • 2.42
    • Drawing Type: D
    • Duty Rating: Severe
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3.25
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 82.55
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.62
      • 2.621
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 66.6
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 61.3
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 1.44 (36mm) Hex
      • 1.440
    • Mount Dia. MM: 36 Hex
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Hex
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 163.8
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 4.4375
      • 4.44
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 112.649
      • 112.7
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.7
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 17.78
      • 17.8
    • Pilot Dia. IN: M30x1.500
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Severe Duty
Brand: Four Seasons
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Lincoln Navigator
Hayden
2003 Lincoln Town Car Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-161572D    2795  New

11136702 , 2795 , 215169 , 140079 , A73380 , 2795TA , 4869R , 2911236 , 36702 , YB464 , LF229 , 140068 , 922795 , GC955 , 22169 , 230229 , 7136702 , 35647 , FC2800 , FC134 , FFC5795T , YB478 , 273380 , 1580269 , YB536 , 402229 , 9252020 , 89001907 , YB541 , YB473 , 77272 , KG2795 , 154924 , CWK922795 , YB486

Qty:
$58.33
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Comment: Not Included
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • M6 X 1.0 Hole
      • M6x1.000
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter:
      • 6.45
      • 6.450
      • 7.250
    • Clutch Type: D - Severe Duty & Truck Fan Drive
    • Depth IN: 4.440
    • Depth MM: 112.776
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 2.415
      • 2.42
    • Drawing Type: D
    • Duty Rating: Severe
    • Electronic Clutch?: No
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN:
      • 2.620
      • 3.25
      • 3.250
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 66.548
      • 82.55
      • 82.550
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.62
      • 2.621
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 66.6
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 61.3
    • Length IN: 6.450
    • Length MM: 163.830
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 1.44 (36mm) Hex
      • 1.440
    • Mount Dia. MM: 36 Hex
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 1
    • Mounting Type: Hex
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 163.8
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 4.44
      • 6.450
      • 7.250
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 112.649
      • 112.7
      • 163.830
    • Overall Width IN:
      • 4.440
      • 6.45
    • Overall Width MM: 163.830
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.7
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 17.78
      • 17.8
    • Pilot Dia. IN: M30x1.500
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Severe Duty
    • Width IN: 6.450
    • Width MM: 163.830
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Lincoln Town Car
Hayden
2003 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-4217634    2789  New

YB3023 , YB531 , 36719 , 215168 , 2911332 , FC2789 , YB560 , YB545 , 922789 , 22168 , 2911245 , YB566 , YB3016 , LF244 , 4868R , CWK922789 , A73386 , 77295 , YB544 , 1540296 , GC948 , YB532 , 2789 , 9252030 , 230244 , 2789TA , 35664 , YB559 , YB569 , YB3041 , KG2789 , FFC5789T , 22604 , YB3005 , 273386 , YB530 , 11136719 , YB529 , FC153

Qty:
$56.53
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 6.45
    • Clutch Type: D - Severe Duty & Truck Fan Drive
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 2.415
      • 2.42
    • Drawing Type: D
    • Duty Rating: Severe
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3.25
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 82.55
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.62
      • 2.621
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 66.6
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 61.3
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 1.44 (36mm) Hex
      • 1.440
    • Mount Dia. MM: 36 Hex
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Hex
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 163.8
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 4.4375
      • 4.44
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 112.649
      • 112.7
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.7
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 17.78
      • 17.8
    • Pilot Dia. IN: M30x1.500
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Severe Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Lincoln Navigator
Hayden
1981 Lincoln Town Car Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-204DFE4    1710  New

36911 , 1001AN , 5237 , 154259 , 140001 , 763325 , 211011 , 154201 , 47152 , 263325 , 21038 , LF194 , 21012 , 36744 , FC1710 , 21016 , 9302230 , 111011 , 230194 , FC1001 , 4911 , FFC1101 , A8695 , KG1710 , 77152 , GC11 , 21034 , 55011 , 21011 , FFC1101T , 1710 , FFC1706 , 7705 , 7136911 , NM1001 , 921710 , 21010 , CWK921710 , 1710P , 401710 , 402194 , 11136911

Qty:
$25.55
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Standard or Reverse Rotation Non-Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Standard Rotation Optional Non-Thermal Fan Clutch
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 7.2
    • Clutch Type: B - Non-thermal & Std Thermal
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange: 1.75
    • Drawing Type: B
    • Duty Rating: Non-thermal
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM: 76.2
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN: 2.37
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 60.2
    • Fan Mount Height MM:
      • 44.45
      • 44.5
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.325
      • 2.33
    • Mount Dia. MM: 59
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Flange
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 182.9
    • Overall Height IN: 3.31
    • Overall Height MM: 84.1
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.75
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 19.05
      • 19.1
    • Pilot Dia. IN:
      • .63 To .75
      • 0.630 To 0.750
    • Rotation: Std & Rev
    • Style: Standard Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1981 - Lincoln Town Car
Hayden
1981 Lincoln Town Car Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-455293A    2710  New

115011 , YB98 , 1580277 , 36954 , 273325 , YB229 , 402710 , KG2710 , 7136965 , FC2710 , 2701TA , YB300 , 7722 , 19189679 , 140018 , 4816 , 36780 , 154914 , 55511 , CWK922710 , 2710P , 140009 , 27101 , 11136954V , 77233 , 5537 , 230192 , 22034 , 2710 , 140022 , GC110 , 067002 , 2708 , 2911277 , 1540304 , FFC5011T , 273365 , 22011 , LF192 , 1580274 , 4811 , A8195 , 47233 , YB327 , YB442 , 22016 , 154912 , 773325 , YB228 , 402192 , 115016 , 771365 , 154212 , YB255 , 215011 , 154274 , 922710 , YB328 , FC48 , 7136954 , 9302300

Qty:
$35.78
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Standard Rotation Thermal Standard Duty Fan Clutch
  • ; Standard Rotation Standard Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 7.2
    • Clutch Type: B - Non-thermal & Std Thermal
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange: 1.75
    • Drawing Type: B
    • Duty Rating: Standard
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM: 76.2
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN: 2.37
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 60.2
    • Fan Mount Height MM:
      • 44.45
      • 44.5
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.325
      • 2.33
    • Mount Dia. MM: 59
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Flange
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM:
      • 182.88
      • 182.9
    • Overall Height IN: 3.3
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 83.8
      • 83.82
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.75
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 19.05
      • 19.1
    • Pilot Dia. IN:
      • .63 To .75
      • 0.630 To 0.750
    • Rotation: Std
    • Style: Standard Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1981 - Lincoln Town Car
Hayden
2004 Lincoln Aviator Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-51BF7AC    2776  New

36720 , FFC5776T , A71358 , 1540083 , 2776 , YB623 , 22139 , CWK922115 , 922115 , KG2776 , 215124 , 36782 , 2911350 , YB3152 , 9252130 , 11136782 , YB631 , 271358 , 140158

Qty:
$56.43
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • M6 X 1.0 Hole
      • M6x1.000
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 6.45
    • Clutch Type: D - Severe Duty & Truck Fan Drive
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 1.234375
      • 1.24
      • 1.25
    • Drawing Type: D
    • Duty Rating: Severe
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3.25
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 82.55
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.43
      • 2.432
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 61.7
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 31.6
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 1.44 (36mm) Hex
      • 1.440
    • Mount Dia. MM: 36 Hex
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Hex
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 163.8
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 3.265
      • 3.27
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 82.9
      • 82.931
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.7
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 17.78
      • 17.8
    • Pilot Dia. IN: M30x1.500
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Severe Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Lincoln Aviator
Hayden
2006 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-43E99D3    2917  New

KG5826 , 11146052 , 46041 , 2916 , A71643 , 271654 , YB3017 , CWK922917 , 922917 , 922324 , 216037 , 2917 , 215104 , YB3016 , 46052 , YB604 , 9252340 , 271643 , KG2786 , 11146041 , 22168 , YB3053 , YB3041 , A71654 , 1540502 , KG2789 , 9202420 , YB3054

Qty:
$54.65
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 6.45
    • Clutch Type: D - Severe Duty & Truck Fan Drive
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 2.415
      • 2.42
    • Drawing Type: D
    • Duty Rating: Severe
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3.25
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 82.55
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.62
      • 2.621
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 66.6
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 61.3
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 1.44 (36mm) Hex
      • 1.440
    • Mount Dia. MM: 36 Hex
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Hex
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 163.8
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 4.4375
      • 4.44
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 112.649
      • 112.7
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.7
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 17.78
      • 17.8
    • Pilot Dia. IN: M30x1.500
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Severe Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Lincoln Navigator
Hayden
1987 Lincoln Continental Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-1B5B2DB    2723  New

11136957V , 067007 , 230187 , 55626 , 9252190 , YB295 , YB239 , 36957 , 47240 , FC59 , 7729 , 1580266 , 7136957 , YB273 , 140049 , 402723 , 36783 , YB304 , LF187 , YB268 , FFC5126T , 273371 , YB336 , 4826R , 115126 , GC400 , YB474 , YB362 , YB267 , 7783 , 77240 , 922723 , KG2723 , YB296 , YB240 , 22126 , 2723TA , 2723P , FC2720 , 2720TA , CWK922723 , 5560 , YB326 , A8193 , YB272 , 402187 , FC2723 , 773371 , 215126 , 2723 , YB337

Qty:
$34.50
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Thermal Standard Duty Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Standard Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 7.2
    • Clutch Type: B - Non-thermal & Std Thermal
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange: 1.75
    • Drawing Type: B
    • Duty Rating: Standard
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3.25
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 82.55
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.62
      • 2.621
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 66.6
    • Fan Mount Height MM:
      • 44.45
      • 44.5
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.59
      • 2.590
    • Mount Dia. MM: 66
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Flange
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 182.9
    • Overall Height IN: 3.33
    • Overall Height MM: 84.6
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 1.03
    • Pilot Depth MM: 26.2
    • Pilot Dia. IN:
      • 0.625
      • 0.63
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Standard Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Lincoln Continental
Hayden
2006 Lincoln Mark LT Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-4217634    2789  New

YB3023 , YB531 , 36719 , 215168 , 2911332 , FC2789 , YB560 , YB545 , 922789 , 22168 , 2911245 , YB566 , YB3016 , LF244 , 4868R , CWK922789 , A73386 , 77295 , YB544 , 1540296 , GC948 , YB532 , 2789 , 9252030 , 230244 , 2789TA , 35664 , YB559 , YB569 , YB3041 , KG2789 , FFC5789T , 22604 , YB3005 , 273386 , YB530 , 11136719 , YB529 , FC153

Qty:
$56.53
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch with Thermo Fan Clutch
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 6.45
    • Clutch Type: D - Severe Duty & Truck Fan Drive
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 2.415
      • 2.42
    • Drawing Type: D
    • Duty Rating: Severe
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3.25
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 82.55
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.62
      • 2.621
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 66.6
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 61.3
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 1.44 (36mm) Hex
      • 1.440
    • Mount Dia. MM: 36 Hex
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Hex
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 163.8
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 4.4375
      • 4.44
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 112.649
      • 112.7
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.7
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 17.78
      • 17.8
    • Pilot Dia. IN: M30x1.500
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Severe Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Lincoln Mark LT
Hayden
2002 Lincoln Blackwood Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-43E99D3    2917  New

KG5826 , 11146052 , 46041 , 2916 , A71643 , 271654 , YB3017 , CWK922917 , 922917 , 922324 , 216037 , 2917 , 215104 , YB3016 , 46052 , YB604 , 9252340 , 271643 , KG2786 , 11146041 , 22168 , YB3053 , YB3041 , A71654 , 1540502 , KG2789 , 9202420 , YB3054

Qty:
$54.65
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch Requires (4ea) 5/16-18 x 5/8 Hex Mounting Bolts and (4ea) 5/16 Lock Washers. New Part
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 6.45
    • Clutch Type: D - Severe Duty & Truck Fan Drive
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 2.415
      • 2.42
    • Drawing Type: D
    • Duty Rating: Severe
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3.25
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 82.55
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.62
      • 2.621
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 66.6
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 61.3
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 1.44 (36mm) Hex
      • 1.440
    • Mount Dia. MM: 36 Hex
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Hex
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 163.8
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 4.4375
      • 4.44
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 112.649
      • 112.7
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.7
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 17.78
      • 17.8
    • Pilot Dia. IN: M30x1.500
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Severe Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Lincoln Blackwood
Hayden
2004 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-4217634    2789  New

YB3023 , YB531 , 36719 , 215168 , 2911332 , FC2789 , YB560 , YB545 , 922789 , 22168 , 2911245 , YB566 , YB3016 , LF244 , 4868R , CWK922789 , A73386 , 77295 , YB544 , 1540296 , GC948 , YB532 , 2789 , 9252030 , 230244 , 2789TA , 35664 , YB559 , YB569 , YB3041 , KG2789 , FFC5789T , 22604 , YB3005 , 273386 , YB530 , 11136719 , YB529 , FC153

Qty:
$56.53
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch To 11/04
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 6.45
    • Clutch Type: D - Severe Duty & Truck Fan Drive
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 2.415
      • 2.42
    • Drawing Type: D
    • Duty Rating: Severe
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3.25
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 82.55
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.62
      • 2.621
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 66.6
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 61.3
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 1.44 (36mm) Hex
      • 1.440
    • Mount Dia. MM: 36 Hex
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Hex
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 163.8
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 4.4375
      • 4.44
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 112.649
      • 112.7
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.7
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 17.78
      • 17.8
    • Pilot Dia. IN: M30x1.500
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Severe Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Lincoln Navigator
Hayden
2004 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Hayden - Fan Clutch

P311-43E99D3    2917  New

KG5826 , 11146052 , 46041 , 2916 , A71643 , 271654 , YB3017 , CWK922917 , 922917 , 922324 , 216037 , 2917 , 215104 , YB3016 , 46052 , YB604 , 9252340 , 271643 , KG2786 , 11146041 , 22168 , YB3053 , YB3041 , A71654 , 1540502 , KG2789 , 9202420 , YB3054

Qty:
$54.65
Hayden Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch
  • ; Reverse Rotation Severe Duty Thermal Fan Clutch From 11/04
  • Fan Clutch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Quantity: 4
    • Bolt Thread:
      • 5/16 In - 18
      • 5/16-18 Hole
    • Clutch Maximum Diameter: 6.45
    • Clutch Type: D - Severe Duty & Truck Fan Drive
    • Description: Fan Clutches
    • Distance From Clutch To Mounting Flange:
      • 2.415
      • 2.42
    • Drawing Type: D
    • Duty Rating: Severe
    • Electronic Clutch?: Non Electronic
    • Fan Bolt Circle IN: 3.25
    • Fan Bolt Circle MM:
      • 82.55
      • 82.6
    • Fan Mount Dia. IN:
      • 2.62
      • 2.621
    • Fan Mount Dia. MM: 66.6
    • Fan Mount Height MM: 61.3
    • Meets / Exceeds OEM?: Yes
    • Mount Dia. IN:
      • 1.44 (36mm) Hex
      • 1.440
    • Mount Dia. MM: 36 Hex
    • Mounting Hardware?: Not Included
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Mounting Type: Hex
    • New or Reman: New
    • O.E. Replacement?: Yes
    • Overall Dia. MM: 163.8
    • Overall Height IN:
      • 4.4375
      • 4.44
    • Overall Height MM:
      • 112.649
      • 112.7
    • Performance Rated?: Yes
    • Pilot Depth IN: 0.7
    • Pilot Depth MM:
      • 17.78
      • 17.8
    • Pilot Dia. IN: M30x1.500
    • Rotation: Rev
    • Style: Severe Duty
Brand: Hayden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Lincoln Navigator
Motorcraft
2005 Lincoln Aviator Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Motorcraft

P311-5B00BA4    W0133-2034228  New

Qty:
$185.80
Motorcraft Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Lincoln Aviator
Motorcraft
2006 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Motorcraft

P311-0E03923    W0133-1877420  New

Qty:
$188.30
Motorcraft Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Lincoln Navigator
Motorcraft
1999 Lincoln Navigator Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Motorcraft

P311-0E03923    W0133-1877420  New

Qty:
$188.30
Motorcraft Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; with Air Conditioning
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Lincoln Navigator
Motorcraft
2006 Lincoln Mark LT Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Motorcraft

P311-0E03923    W0133-1877420  New

Qty:
$188.30
Motorcraft Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -07/17/2006
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Lincoln Mark LT To:07-17-06
GMB
2008 Lincoln Mark LT Engine Cooling Fan Clutch GMB

P311-23BB161    W0133-1883886  New

Qty:
$425.99
GMB Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Lincoln Mark LT
Motorcraft
2008 Lincoln Mark LT Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Motorcraft

P311-37754E0    W0133-1883886  New

Qty:
$425.99
Motorcraft Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Lincoln Mark LT
GMB
2006 Lincoln Mark LT Engine Cooling Fan Clutch GMB

P311-23BB161    W0133-1883886  New

Qty:
$425.99
GMB Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • ; Production: 07/18/2006-
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Lincoln Mark LT Fr:07-18-06
Motorcraft
2006 Lincoln Mark LT Engine Cooling Fan Clutch Motorcraft

P311-37754E0    W0133-1883886  New

Qty:
$425.99
Motorcraft Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 07/18/2006-
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Lincoln Mark LT Fr:07-18-06

Latest Lincoln Repair and Fan Clutch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1992 Lincoln Town Car overheating

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From estevens on 1992 Lincoln Town Car overheating

My '92 Lincoln Town Car started running hot a few weeks ago. The coolant return tank was cracked so I replace it as well as the thermostat, but it is still overheating. At freeway speeds the temp is normal but in town driving sends the needle to the red. I'm no mechanic and I'm not sure I installed the thermostat correctly, the old one popped right out and I just set the new one in it's place. Aside from the flushing the system or water pump failure (god forbid) I'm not sure what else it could be. I don't see any leaks. Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Flushing the system will not fix anything. That will replace the coolant and help prevent a problem but you aren't going to move any blockages out. I would try replacing the fan clutch first. If that doesn't help, then you are likely looking at a new radiator.

1990 Town Car 5.0 v8 cooling problems

Showing 4 out of 13 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From magic_ninja on 1990 Town Car 5.0 v8 cooling problems

Okay so last winter i hooked up a bypassed heater-core on my lincoln (it was bypassed when i bought the car and now i have a heater-core to install). Anyway, since then I have had nothing but trouble from the coolant system of the car and the pipes coming out of the core to under the hood were not blocked off. I let it set for a month and the overheating problems went away, around 2-3 months later the water pump went out. Its been about 2 months since i changed the water pump and it has been overheating while running the AC in town or idling (i have not let it get to a dangerous temp though). Today I noticed coolant leaking and checked, and it was the same leaking as before (my water pump is out again). I need to figure out whats going on with my coolant system in the car and what i should do to get it up to par. This motor has 120,000 miles on it, so its got alot of life left in it. It runs fine as well. What should i do to keep the water pump from going out again and get the cooling system up to par (i noticed it had a lot of rust and corrosion and has had straight water ran in it for a couple years).

HERE IS SOME NEW INFO:
Okay so I idled the car with the AC on (to create the problem scenario) and filled the radiator completely (fill the radiator, wait for it to go down, fill some more, until completely full and also getting the air out of the system). Once completely full i kept the cap on and let it idle, idled for around 30 minutes all together, and it didn't overheat and i didn't notice the leak coming from the bottom two pulleys (water-pump and power steering pulley's i believe, its two pulleys one right in front of the other at the spot for the crank pulley and harmonic balancer). I probably got the names of the pulley's wrong but i can provide photographs if needed. Could heat be manipulating one of the hoses/clamps on the waterpump to be causing this leak? I would think if it was a bad water-pump it would be leaking all the time, and even after 30 minutes of idling and the coolant being completely warm there was no leakage from the water pump.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; You need to find out, for sure, where the leak is originating. There is a by-pass hose directly above the water pump that can leak, a faulty pump of course, or the timing cover gasket. A pressure test should confirm if it's the hose or the timing cover gasket. I've run into water pumps that would leak only 1)when hot, 2)when cold, 3)under pressure, 4)no pressure. You should be able to take a look at the seep hole on the underside of the pump to see if there is a 'coolant trail' where it may have leaked. Not sure if this engine/application uses electric cooling fan(s). If it does, make sure that they are coming on once it has reached temp. If it uses a clutch fan, make sure it 'locks up' once the engine reaches temp. You shouldn't be able to 'spin' it when warm. Oh, and never use rebuilt water pumps. Only new.
Once your leak is solved, get that system clean. May take several flushes. May result in more leaks...freeze plugs, ect. I had a '92 Lincoln TC in yesterday. Mint condition, except for the cooling system. Every one of the freeze plugs were leaking, including the ones at the rear of the engine. The engine is going to have to be removed to do all of them.

Response From magic_ninja Top Rated Answer

Okay, here is what I've got.

Drove the car around today with AC on max and got the car heated (took about 20 miles of driving). Once the car was up to operating temps I let it idle and water started leaking from the top bleeder hole of the water pump. Obviously this needs replaced. It was a new pump, and matched the one I pulled off perfectly. It has a lifetime warranty on it as well, so I can get a new one. I did apply silicon, RTV, whatever you choose to call it (thermal grade as well). I also torqued the bolts to specifications, however all I had was a needle wrench, but I am pretty sure it accurately did the job. The system was probably a 35/70 mixture of coolant/water with around 5-10% leftover from the old engine.

Fan Clutch - Performing fine.
Heater Hoses:

I'm sure I hooked them up right, based on the sizes each hose could only reach one side of the heater core.

My questions:
1. Its obvious this cooling system has been neglected and if I don't get it in order I'll end up blowing the motor or the head-gasket at least. I need to get the cooling system clean and up to par. What would be the best process to flush my system during the repair (could I do it before the water-pump as long as I keep the car idle). I would like to get all the gunk out of my system, as I have a new heater-core as well. I would like to have clean coolant flowing through the heater-core.

2.What other things might I want to look into, could the radiator be the primary cause of this? What will I need to do to make sure the cooling system is cleaned?

Repairs performed:
Coolant system flush
Top and Bottom radiator hoses
Water pump

I do have the book for this vehicle as well, so I have the specs I need for everything, as well as the owner's manual.

Thanks for your replies.

Added: what are freeze plugs, where are they located?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; In two months, I doubt that it would be the rust that caused the pump failure; And, there's nothing you could have done to cause it. Just happens. There is a seal inside the pump that fails. And, there are varying qualities of replacement pumps. Don't know where you purchased yours, but try and stay with a good quality pump. Even they 'can' go bad, but less likely.

Not sure what a 'needle' wrench is?

As far as flushing goes; If you remove the thermostat, this procedure will be quicker; I'd do it before replacing the pump, if you can do it without overheating. Most parts stores sell flush chemicals. Drain the coolant out of the radiator (if still clean, you can save and reuse it; If not, dispose of it properly) and refill with water. Run the engine until warm, then drain and fill again. You can't do this too many times. Each time, it'll get a bit cleaner. Once you are 'satisfied' with the results, refill again with water, add the flush chemical, and do it again following the instructions on the chemical container. This stuff will be, more than likely, toxic, so when you drain it out, dispose of it properly. I would suggest doing one last clean water flush afterwards to make sure you've got all of the chemical out of the system. A 50/50 mix with water and anti-freeze is ideal. Too much anti-freeze can cause an over heating condition as it doesn't dissapate the heat as well as water. Too little anti-freeze doesn't give you enough freeze protection, rust protection, and boil temp. protection.

Freeze plugs, or soft plugs, really aren't what they say they are. I used to think that they were there in case the water in the engine block froze, they'd allow for the expansion and be 'pushed' out, saving the block. Although I have actually seen this, that isn't what they were designed for. Usually, there are three on each side of the engine block, one or two at the rear of the engine (have to pull the engine or transmission to see them) and usually one at each end of each cylinder head. Replacing the plugs isn't a tough job once you've gained access. THAT (gaining access) can be a nightmare. On your application, it would probably be easier to remove the engine and replace all of them. If it comes to that.

Response From magic_ninja

Alright, well flushed the radiator, I used a garden-type pressure hose (has like 8 or so settings, not very much psi) and flushed from the top of the radiator on both sides down and the water ran out fine, at the same rate as it was flowing in and clear as well after a little bit. Then i removed the thermostat and sprayed into the thermostat housing, the water ran from the bottom of the waterpump with fine pressure and clear as well after a bit. Tested the thermostat by dropping it into boiling water and after a minute, it opened up just fine and slowly closed after i removed it. Doing the water-pump tomarrow.

As for the pump I used not sure, it was a 42 dollar water pump and bought from oriely's new. We pretty much only have autozone and oreily's here and I never have been much of a fan of autozone. We will see what happens after the 2nd waterpump repair and if it fails again. The coolant flow seems to be fine, btw i reccomend a racheting wrench if you ever have to remove a thermostat from one of these, the waterpump, alternator bracket and distributor are RIGHT in the way of any rachet access, lol, and its a pain in the ass with a locktighted bolt on :-(. Getting a new radiator cap, thermostat gasket and waterpump tomarrow as my radiator cap has a crack on the rubber seal inside the top of the cap, not sure if this could be the culprit of overheating myself, but it very well could be.

Response From Sidom


alternator bracket and distributor are RIGHT in the way of any rachet access
If you have a timing light, moving the dist makes it a lot easier.... the module is right in the way.

Response From magic_ninja

I just used a normal ole 1/2 wrench and it gets the job done, however much your fingers may hurt at the end.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

The radiator cap is very important. First, it seals the system. If air can get in there, rust will be the result. Secondly, it keeps the water IN the system. Otherwise, the water will just go past the cap, into the recovery bottle. The bottle will overflow, and won't get 'sucked' back into the radiator once it cools down. Thirdly, a pressurize system raises the boiling point. Straight water without pressure boils at 212F. Under pressure, that boiling point climbs at varying degrees of pressure. I'm sure someone here has a chart.... I should have asked you about the cap at the beginning of this. Sorry.

Response From magic_ninja

Is there any way you guys can post me the torque specs for the power steering pump and water pump, I can't find my manual. Thanks.

Also if you can post a diagram of where the heater-core is in the dash it would help a great deal as i'm doing this too before I fill the cooling system back up.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; The water pump mounting bolt torque spec is 12-18 ft.lbs. Couldn't find anything on the power steering, though. I would think 25 ft.lbs. should be sufficient.
The heater core replacement is not for a novice. The whole dash has to come off. For an experienced tech, the labor time is 6.2 hrs. You may want to reconsider this? btw, it is mounted under the dash, behind the glove box, inside a plastic box that is easy to break, along with electrical connections, ect., ect.
I've been doing this for nearly 40 years, and I don't hate myself enough to tackle a job like this. If you are determined to do it, I'd suggest buying a GOOD manual that give step by step instructions. Good luck.

Response From magic_ninja

Thank you, I got all back together today with the waterpump, minus the fan/clutch fan shroud top/bottom heater hoses and alternator and assembly. As far as the heater core goes my uncle has done several and can provide help if I get stuck, the electronics don't worry me as its kind of one of my hobbies, and it shouldn't be that difficult. Thanks for the advice and I'll keep posting updates to see how the heater-core hoses go

BTW i broke a bolt on the air conditioner compressor pulley. There is still two and the pulley is held on strong/sturdy as I got the bolt in completely before it broke. I know its not the smartest thing, but you think the pulley will still hold fine? If not i'll end up using some african american inginuity to get it done.

Okay, IT IS NOT THE AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR PULLEY. Not sure which pulley it is, but its at the bottom left of the engine looking at it from the front. Anyway I figured out how to get the bolt out, thanks for all the help guys, its about time for a new heater-core thread :-). My uncle is a mechanic and said if i get stuck he will come help me.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

magic; With your attidute, patience, and determination, I feel pretty confident that you'll get through it. Please, keep us posted.

Response From magic_ninja

It was the air pump, only found that out after I pulled it off. Looked on the net, found out about easy-outs drilled it out (easy out got it 2-3 threads out then broke lol) but enough that it broke the bolt and I could unscrew it out. Got dark once we got to the fan clutch/fan (lol i forgot to put the pulley on the fan/clutch) so hopefullyt omarrow i'm filling back up. Save the heater-core til I figure out why the impala is overheating. Coolant boiling out of resivior after some sustained driving. My guess would be a stuck thermostat. Anyway thanks for the help, I'll try to help answer some questions ont he site as well. I'm not professional but my entire family does their own mechanic work, and a good job at that, so even though I just started I already have a background of knowledge, i just need to aquire the know-how, and only one way to do that.

Overheating 86 Towncar

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From gingavitis on Overheating 86 Towncar

Hi all, this is my first posting here. I searched for a little more information but being female and all, I only know so much about my car. Don't get me wrong though, I know an awful lot more than most. My car has many many issues, and I would not doubt that some may be contributing to the other. This is what I can tell you:

1986 Lincoln Towncar Signature Series, 5.0. Mileage, unknown. It never worked when I bought it, and it only reads up to five digits anyways, which does read somewhere in the 15,xxx's, which I am sure it is probably more like close to 2xx,xxx's. I drive like a grandma, so I am good to my car and keeping them running longer than most.

The most recent work we had done on my car was because it would not pass emissions. We tore off the intake plentum, cleaned, took off valve covers to replace gaskets, (suspected the place of oil leak, turned out we were wrong), replaced sensors and most, possibly all hoses for coolant. Some sensors were not even connected, and several hoses in the back of the plentum were blocked shut with rust. (This explained why we could never get the system flushed when we tried for hours after we replaced the water pump about six months ago, same time we also replaced the thermostat.) Also replaced all vacuum lines as they were brittle and breaking at the touch.

After a week's work on the car, sometimes staying up all night to do so, we put it back together. We tried flushing the coolant system again but still came back dirty, just not as dirty as before. We suspected there was leftover residue in the not-so-old lines that had been replaced months ago, and it rumbled happier than I had heard it in a long time. Seemed to be going through more gas the first day, but it sounded so very happy. Passed emissions, results were about half all across the board from what they were before.

I was checking fluid levels all week to be certain everything was tightened down. Coolant levels were low, the next day it was dry. Also when I popped the hood after parking it seemed extremely hot under there, much hotter than normal (for about a year I have had to unhook the battery every time I park for several hours because there is something draining it, not sure what yet). Then finally one day, I had to make a stop before home, and on the way home I stalled out from overheating. My ride home was usually 20 minutes, with stop it was about 30-40. Hoses seem clamped well, but as time has gone on, I have water at all times, and fill before I go anywhere. It is always empty. Now I can only drive for about 15 minutes before it stalls out and won't go anywhere again for several hours of cool-down, unless I only want to move for only two minutes.

Very long story, I apologize. We suspect that part of the problem may be the thermostat is blocked open from some rust that was broken loose, therefore overheating, also suspect could be water pump has gone bad from the overheating? How do we tell? When I first drive, the first few movements through first and second gear it sounds like my belts are squealing, but the belts are not damaged and not getting worse, and as tight as they can go, and straight of course. Is that possibly the water pump squealing? Once I move into third gear it seems to get much quieter but still present, and doesn't quite scream like a belt does.

If you have any ideas on what else it could be, please let me know. I am having a real hard time right now, not to mention hard to come up with cash to fix the car, so any thoughts are a big help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If need be, flush cooling system again! Pressure check cooling system. Look for vent hole on bottom of water pump - it should be dry. You need a mirror to see that.

There is a metal heater hose that goes under upper intake that is known to rust out. new is going to be trick but can be found.

These cars eat fan clutches. Just look at fan when just shut down and it should stop almost right away. If you toss that make sure it's a thermostatic one.

Radiator may need to go. If you are filling it all the time you need to find out where it's going. When you catch it low take a look inside for how crusty radiator tubes might be or clotted with rust. Never exceed 50% antifreeze as pure product doesn't work well at heat transfer.

Trickle drain on battery: Just take the bulb OUT of hood light, trunk light and glove box. Hood and trunk are "mercury" switches and can be bumped and stay on and you don't see it. That and if parked on an incline they come on and you don't know it! Also, overhead reading lamps and the ones in the back will stay on if messed with and you or a passenger forgets to turn them off!

Belt noise: Not big bucks but you almost have to get either Dayco's or Goodyear's "Quiet" belts Goodyear's is called "Gatorback" and they will stretch faster and need periodic adjustment. Don't tighten them so much as the kills bearing of components! Just tighten right at the point where you can't spin alternator fins by hand and leave it there.

Oil leaks can be the low oil sensor on side of oil pan or aggravated by a poor PCV system. The grommet and valve is way down back of engine and tricky to even get your hands on.

Could be blowby from a now older engine. Not dead so easy as they are tough. Trick, while at idle try like a near spent cigaretty with dipstick part pulled out. Smoke should go DOWN the dipstick tube as a good indication PCV system is still overwhelming any blowby.

BTW - OE thermostat was 192F Don't try to lower that to solve cooling issues. 195F is more common and close enough. If you went to 160F or even 180F it's not helping - trust me!

T

Response From gingavitis

Yes! That stupid metal hose was rusted in a spot, and it was hard to find anywhere. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Dealer said it would cost $120 new, we ended up creating one with fittings put together from Lowe's, about $12 bucks. It is tight and does the job. We have tried flushing it again after it started stalling with no change.

I will have to check the radiator, good point. For fear of dumping antifreeze all over town and killing the wildlife, have chosen not to use antifreeze until problem is solved, just using water for now. Yes I know it can rust it up so much quicker, but I don't want to contribute to a dirty world.

As for the battery, when it first started we did check the bulbs, although the trunk light was not coming on while closed, we pulled it anyways, and it still had the problem. I checked the hood light at night and it was not on while hood was closed. If it's any help, it started after I replaced the battery. I took it back to check for problem, it wasn't the battery. It's not anything being left on that is the problem; it happens every time.

I'm really not certain it is the belts squealing, the guys think it might be the water pump going bad? Do they do that when they go bad? Sad thing is, belts and water pump are not that old. Belts are newer.

We have since found the oil leak issue, the grommet is pretty much gone. You can see it just by crawling under, it is hanging in there. The PCV valve... that was quite interesting. The major job we did of removing the plentum; upon getting to the PCV valve, we noticed it was only attached to one hose, and it was so dirty we couldn't even blow through it. Very puzzling to know it was not attached, has been replaced along with several of the other valves. You think that's probably what caused the oil leak to start?

Thank you!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There's a lot here so let's take bits and pieces..........

PCV system: The idea to to create a slight vacuum in crankcase areas and burn some misty oily vapors while at it. When the crankcase has pressure instead of slight vacuum it will blow out weaker gaskets. This engine requires taking off that upper intake to do then simple valve cover gaskets as you found out. What stinks is those gasket do better if you can warm up engine and re torque them a couple times - not much more than screwdriver tight but you can't run the engine with that upper manifold off!

Ok for short term to use just water till leak is located. If you think water pump is making the noise take the belts off and spin the components by hand. No wobble allowed for the pump or the clutch. Well - the slightest bit. Pressure test system - you'll find the leak. Dye the water or use some antifreeze to see traces of the color.

Hey - anything holding coolant could leak. These are not generally head gasket eater engines but who knows? The well hidden freeze plugs could be the issue!

Another weak spot for electrical trouble is the main plug to the alternator. Look for heat damage there to that plug. They sell just the pigtail ends to those to solder in a new one.

If you look at the alternator, note how little % of it touches the belt. They will easily give you a quick squeal right after start up and are near periodic to snug up a bit but as said don't overdo it!

You have age and miles on this car. They do well but that takes a toll. Watch your expenditures as you may come across something that is big trouble at this point and decide what to do if that happens.

Side note: I own three of these right now and have had several. Here I lost the battle to rust. One I'm parting out real soon as it's in the way now. That's an '89 last of that series of Town Cars. Tons was the same for years on these and also Crown Vics and the Grand Marquis for many silly parts now getting hard to get OE stuff,

T