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    Walker Exhaust

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We stock Exhaust parts for most Oldsmobile models, including Bravada, Silhouette.

Walker Exhaust
In Stock & Ready to Ship
Walker Exhaust Exhaust System Kit
  • Super Turbo Exhaust System Kit
  • Dynomax Super Turbo 17366 Exhaust System Kit
  • Dynomax Super Turbo Single System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Type: Mandrel
    • Body Finish: Aluminized
    • Body Length: 16
    • Catalytic Converter Included: No
    • Clamp Count: 2
    • Clamp Type: U-bolt
    • Exit Location: Rear
    • Grade Type: Performance
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Kit Contents:
      • Flanged Intermediate Pipe, Muffler, Tail Pipe, Clamps, Gasket
      • Intermediate Pipe W/ Welded Inlet Flange, Tail Pipe & All Necessary Gaskets, Brackets & Clamps.
    • Mounting Hardware Included: Yes
    • Muffler Finish: Aluminized
    • Muffler Material: Steel
    • Muffler Quantity: 1
    • Muffler Type Included: Super Turbo
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Oxygen Sensor Bung Included: No
    • Pipe Diameter:
      • 2.5
      • 2.500
    • Pipe Finish: Aluminized
    • Pipe Material: Steel
    • System Style: Cat Back
    • System Type: Single
    • Tip Cut: Angle
    • Tip Edge Style: Non-rolled
    • Tip Finish: Aluminized
    • Tip Material: Steel
    • Tip Outlet Size: 2.5
    • Tip Shape: Round
  • DynoMax® Super Turbo™ performance mufflers exclusive patented flow director design channels exhaust flow and eliminates turbulence on most applications. The large internal flow tubes improve exhaust flow and reduce backpressure. Each muffler uses fiberglass matting technology to absorb unwanted interior resonance while maintaining a mellow performance tone. The 'Pure Unadulterated POWER' of DynoMax® Super Turbo™ mufflers are backed by a Limited Lifetime Warranty and exclusive 90-Day Performance & Sound Guarantee™. All Dynomax® Performance Exhaust Systems bolt on for easy installation. Your vehicle's complete exhaust can be quickly and easily customized with an emissions-legal premium performance system from Dynomax®.
Brand: Walker Exhaust
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Oldsmobile Bravada V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
In Stock & Ready to Ship
Bosal Exhaust System Kit
  • Direct-Fit Exhaust
  • Multi-Part Replacement System Replaces All Major Post-Converter Components, Gaskets and Clamps
  • Direct-Fit Exhaust
  • BRExhaust Replacement Exhaust System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Clamp Type: U-bolt Clamp
    • Exit Style: Oem Location
    • Front Muffler Size: 6.25x10.75x26
    • Hangers Included: No
    • Inlet Connection Type: Bolt-on
    • Main Piping Diameter: 2.5
    • Mounting Bracket Included: No
    • Muffler Body Material: Aluminized Steel
    • Muffler Finish: Aluminized
    • Muffler Quantity: 2
    • Pipe Material: Aluminized Steel
    • Rear Muffler Size: 7.25x7.25x12
    • Series: Direct-fit Exhaust
    • Subtitle: Direct-fit
    • Tip Finish: Aluminized
    • Tip Material: Aluminized Steel
    • Tip Quantity: 1
    • Tip Shape: Slant-cut
    • Tip Size: 2.75
    • Title: Direct-fit Exhaust System
    • Type: Direct-fit
  • BRExhaust Direct-Fit Exhaust kits take the guesswork out of replacing the exhaust system on many popular vehicle makes and models. You will find the gaskets and clamps needed to get the job done included in the box. The multi-piece, bolt-on design ensures the system is easy to install and fits perfectly, which means that your vehicle will be back on the road in no time.
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Oldsmobile Bravada L 6 Cyl 4.2L 256 -

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Exhaust manifold

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From diannechevy on Exhaust manifold

Hello everyone we just bought a 1964 Oldsmobile Jetstar 88 with a 330 engine with 67000 miles. We need to replace the exhaust and was wanting to know if we can go from single exhaust to dual exhaust. But the exhaust manifolds I have in my car dont look like they will work to change to dual exhaust. Can any one help please.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Google out and join this club. It will be tons of fun and resources for you. You will need manifolds and can get pipes made up nice or universal bendable pipe (haven't tried it yet) that is something like brake line so it bends better and looks better.

Another great resource always has been

Hope that helps. You'll find what you want. Have fun! Former 1961 Olds F-85 w "Rockette" 215 and 1970 "98" with rarish "Rocket" 455/365HP?


Response From diannechevy Top Rated Answer

Thanks for your help we will ask the question there.

89 Oldsmobile cutlass ciera 3800

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 89 Oldsmobile cutlass ciera 3800

Car bogs bad on acceleration have changed fuel pump,fuel filter, plugs &wires,air filter. what do I do next

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

If the check engine light is on, pull the codes. Take a vacuum reading at idle & high rpms. If you have very low vac @ high rpms you may have a restricted exhaust.... Take a fuel pressure reading, get a spark tester & check coil pack output...

Response From Guest

Turned out to be bad fuel pump thanks

Response From Sidom

Don't ya hate it when that happens ........ Thx 4 takin the time to let us know what happened.......

2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette rough idle/vibration

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From nbeavor on 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette rough idle/vibration

I own a 200 Olds Silhouette and it runs great at slow and fast speeds. But, when at a stop and idling it runs rough. I should say that it It runs loud and has a very mild vibration. Hardly any vibration. What is surprising, Is that when you go outside the car and listen to the engine with hood up or down, it sounds fine. It is only when you are in the car and it is idling that it sounds abnormal/loud. Any thoughts?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I'd guess you're feeling it more than hearing it. The engine is probably transmitting vibration through the body, possibly due to worn motor mounts or the exhaust system grounding out somewhere.

Response From nbeavor

Very true... I am almost feeling it more than hearing it. Ill check the exhaust system and mounts. Thanks

1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From kresend on 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

I have a 96 Olds Cutlass acts like it isn't getting enough gas when you reach a certain RPM. I have been told that it is a weak fuel pump, but I having been driving it around for over a month like this. I hate to spend money that isn't necessary if I don't have to. Could it be any thing else? When it is idling I can give it gas and it doesn't die, only when I am on the road and it seems to be worse when I first start it.

I would appreciate any help.


Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hmmm? Fuel filter would be a good thing if it's been a while since new. I'd try some moisture removing fuel additive also just because and also suspect an exhaust restriction - usually a cat/conv if that's found,


1971 Cutlass Supreme Loss of power

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Jaod on 1971 Cutlass Supreme Loss of power

Hi, I need some help. I have a 1971 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme with a Rocket 455 7.5L engine. As you know this is a pretty mean engine. Recently, however, I have noticed a severe drop in the engine's power. Used to be I would accidentally peel out of a parking lot if I wasn't paying attention, now I can floor the engine and it accelerates much slower than before. No noticeable symptoms other than the loss of power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response From Discretesignals

Check engine light on?

Has this engine been modified? If so, with what? Does it have misfires, idles rough, or back fires? Have you pulled any spark plugs to see how they are burning?

Response From Jaod

No modifications to the engine, basically all stock as far as I know

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Hard searching so need to know how much you can identify. 3 common 455 were used, 2V, 4V and 4V HP. It may matter if HP = high performance.

A heat rise is like a choke on end of one side's exhaust manifold used on these originally. What that did is force hot exhaust to cross under but thru intake manifold to warm it up fast. Fine but they could stick and didn't have the power of being warmed up but would quickly from a cold start but if those stayed stuck you lost power and might even knock like bad or way too low octane fuel.
Only one side had them and could be removed, many were TMK. Manifold with one look like this if dang pics show.........

^^^^^ like that stuff if pics show - if not try Google Images or Bing Images for Olds heat risers,

The thing on the side should move by hand all the time but don't touch it unless cold! If it has this thing and it doesn't move try to free it up with product like PB carefully. If stuck tight and has this it may need to come apart to free it up or decide to get rid of it which means a different exhaust pipe there - parts just looked for not so easy so I won't keep looking till I know what you have.

That was common especially if a car was left without using it for some time - clearly this car. It could plain break anytime.

It's near impossible that this area of exhaust hasn't been touched in all these years so studs and gaskets may be a reusable type or very rust resistant parts used or not and then it's hard to mess with without torches or beyond chance of not breaking things - YOU need to know overall condition of things like this with pics or a good description.

Do you own a vacuum gauge? IF not get one - cheap enough and real handy anyway but if you are going to DIY things on this car should own one - best the pistol type pump and gauge.

Reason is many items are vacuum controlled even this heat riser could be? Need to know then if so need to test it plus have gauge you can test for exhaust restrictions which I can explain later.

Owned two of these engines, worked on countless but were mostly under 15 years old but close to that. Not "special" cars yet at that age quite yet.

Questions asked are because this was the body of what would be one of the last real American Muscle Cars at least and very desirable for its parts if a boring model like this or less but nice parts for real road burner models many would have all redone exhaust if only to look great long ago.

Would really help to post some pics of this car and just what it is. Believe it or not could be an old lady/man's car or was for style and performance. Any had power that would surprise you now vs anything even non HP engines.

Pics are doable if trouble thru a host site like Photobucket, TinyPics or others if you can get them to show open hood at engine, side, interior w dash, underside of engine with exhaust parts would be great,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

CEL, DS - crack me up! 1971 Old's didn't even change dash to read "alternator" yet still had red warning light said "GEN."

Jist of this whole question and age of car is going require knowing how close to original things are. OE timing cam gear was nylon but should have been done long ago now. OE exhaust system was double metal pipe* such that inside pipe could collapse and outside show nothing wrong making a wild back pressure unseen by eye but those pipes can't be OE this long later. *Those almost all did that when hitting a puddle by surprise.

In short - what do you have here?


Response From Hammer Time

CEL, DS - crack me up! 1971 Old's didn't even change dash to read "alternator" yet still had red warning light said "GEN."

That's probably why there was a "wink" emoticon after the question.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I saw that. Was also trying to remember the front exhaust on these? I'm forgetting but OE had one crossover pipe and I think passenger's manifold held two pipes? I forget now exactly or if this used a "heat riser" on a spring that forced all exhaust out one side? Dunno what might have been done now to exhaust on this but to me exhaust restriction somehow seems like a reason to check out,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check valve timing on Olds big blocks with that complaint. TMK it is an interference engine but unlikely to jump a timing chain enough teeth to cause damage. Smooth loss of power a strong clue all at once. That or backfires for no real reason.

Check for a sudden exhaust restriction also with that complaint,