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Bosal
1993 Nissan Quest Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.0L Bosal - Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe

P311-3314F35    751-881  New

Qty:
$84.30
Bosal Exhaust Pipe
  • 94-98 VILLAGER- NISSAN QUEST
  • Split Date From: From 11/93
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Nissan Quest V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2960
Bosal
1998 Nissan Quest Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.0L Bosal - Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe

P311-3314F35    751-881  New

Qty:
$84.30
Bosal Exhaust Pipe
  • 94-98 VILLAGER- NISSAN QUEST
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Nissan Quest V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2960
Bosal
Qty:
$90.31
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 99-98 NISSAN SENTRA
  • California Emissions
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Nissan Sentra Front L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1597
Bosal
Qty:
$80.38
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 96-7 NISS ALTIMA
  • Federal Emissions Split Date From: From 2/96
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Nissan Altima Front L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Bosal
Qty:
$80.38
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 96-7 NISS ALTIMA
  • California Emissions
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Nissan Altima Front L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Bosal
Qty:
$80.38
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 96-7 NISS ALTIMA
  • Federal Emissions
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Nissan Altima Front L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Bosal
Qty:
$80.38
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 96-7 NISS ALTIMA
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Nissan Altima Front L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Bosal
Qty:
$83.18
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Left
  • Nissan Pathfinder 01-04
  • California Emissions
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Nissan Pathfinder Left V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3275
Bosal
Qty:
$83.18
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Left
  • Nissan Pathfinder 01-04
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Nissan Pathfinder Left V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Bosal
2002 Nissan Sentra Exhaust Pipe - Front Bosal - Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe

P311-4719511    860-709  New

Qty:
$117.71
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • Nissan Sentra 00-05
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Nissan Sentra Front

Latest Nissan Repair and Exhaust Pipe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Nissan exhaust problem

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Nissan exhaust problem

The exhaust pipe has came loose on my 1998 Nissan 200 sx se-r. It came loose at the weld on the pipe coming off the engine and where becomes the exhaust system. The muffler and catalytic converter are still in good working order. I have no welding equipment is there any way to reconnect the exhaust system. Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If a welded flange broke right off it will be tricky. There are some funky items for making up stuff without welding but it would probbly be best to take it to a shop that can do it right,

T

My 95 nissan pickup smokes and goes dead...

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From 95nissan on My 95 nissan pickup smokes and goes dead...

Hi, I am new to repairing cars, so I am in the dark...
I have been fixing my 95 Nissan Pickup for a while now. It started with going dead when Idling/driving very slow or changing from drive to reverse. Then we noticed that white smoke would start to shoot out the exhaust pipe when the truck would get up to running temperature. We did all the regular tune up stuff (oil change, new spark plugs, new spark plug batteries, new ignition rotor and new spark plug wires). I stuck my hand near the exhaust pipe and it was moisture coming out of the pipe. We ran a compression test on it, and in the first spark plug port, the pressure was significantly lower. So we tore down the head until we got to the head gasket this afternoon, expecting to see a broken gasket. When we pulled the gasket off, there wasnt a break in the gasket. I did notice that the intake manifold gasket was in pretty bad shape. But we are at a stand still right now, would it be a cracked head? I have no idea on where to go from here.
Any help is appreciated! Thanks!!!

Response From 95nissan

Thanks for the info on the head! Also, when I was taking the head apart, I noticed that two of the bolts that stick out from the head to connect the exhaust manifold were missing... so could this be where moisture is getting in?

Response From Jeff Norfolk Top Rated Answer

Could be getting a bit of moisture in there but probably wouldn't cause the kind of white smoke you said "shoot out of the tail pipe". More than likely coming from the cooling system. Especially since you are having performance trouble with the the truck.

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Sometimes you can see a crack in a head but you kinda need to know what you are looking for. Your best bet since you already have the head off is to take it to a machine shop and have them check it for you. They can find cracks that you can't see. Also the can take care of any valve trouble you may have and reseat them for you. Even if there are no cracks the 2 or 3 hundred you will spend to have it checked and a valve job done will be worth not having to tear it back apart. And if the crack is minimal then most good machine shops can repair it for you. Big savings there rather then buying a new one. Good Luck

2004 Nissan Sentra--No signal to injector

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Speedy on 2004 Nissan Sentra--No signal to injector

Getting persistent CES light. Have replaced ignition coils, spark plugs and fuel injectors. Checked DC signal to injector harnesses-All 12 volts. Upon recommendation from electrical engineer friend, I checked AC signal--23 volts on all but # One, which was 0.0 VAC. According to all wiring diagrams I've been able to find, they all run off the same fuse, so I don't understand how only one can be missing a signal. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks in advance for any help.

Response From Hammer Time

There is no AC voltage. They receive a constant 12V power supply and the computer supplies a pulsing ground to control them. You need to first check for power supply and then use a noid light to check for pulse.

Response From Speedy

Noid light varies between no light at all and a very faint but pulsing light on #1. The other cylinders are brighter and blinking. Car is putting out a lot of white smoke and idling rough, especially when shifted out of Park into gear.

Response From Discretesignals

Does that white smoke smell like raw fuel?

Response From Speedy Top Rated Answer

Yes, very much so. In fact, it leaves a dampness on the ground beneath the exhaust pipe that appears to be fuel, at least in part

Response From Discretesignals

I would say you have a stuck open or leaking injector. Which engine does this have?

Did this start happening with the raw fuel in the exhaust after you did the injectors?

Response From Speedy

I have the 1.8L engine. It got worse after the injectors were changed. It ran a bit rough before, but I hadn't noticed exhaust smoke.

Response From Discretesignals

It is possibly that you got a defective injector that is stuck open. You should pull the fuel rail up with the injectors connected. Then turn on the ignition to prime the fuel rail or bypass the fuel pump relay to manually pressurize the rail. You'll see if any injectors are leaking.

It is also possible that a control wire got pinched and an injector is turned on all the time, so make sure you visually inspect for injectors spraying with the key on with the injector electrical connectors connected and disconnected to rule out an electrical issue.

Response From Speedy

Throwing in the towel on this POJ ... Took it to a shop this morning. I'll post their diagnosis once I get one.

Response From Speedy

The problem turned out to be that the coils I had gotten were crap, one was replaced with a new OEM one and two was replaced with one of the original ones after it was tested. Light has been off for a week and a half or so, hopefully will stay off. To all who weighed in on this, THANK YOU!!

Response From Discretesignals

Good to see you finally got your issue resolved Thank you for the follow up. Closed as solved.

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like you have an issue with that injector harness. First thing is to make sure the power supply is solid and then I would try the same test at the PCM pin for that injector to see if it is acting the same.

B14 Sunny knocking sound

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Chemsto on B14 Sunny knocking sound

1999
Nissan
Sunny B14
1.5
120000KMS

I drove though what appeared to be a puddle,ended up being a small lake.Now i hear a knocking sound coming from the engine,car sounds like a tractor! Plus there were rocks in the mini-lake and they had contact with the underside of the car. The oil seems to be ok,correct level,no water but the sound from the exhaust has changed.Please help!
Caroline

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Engine still runs which is good so far. Now it needs to be totally hoisted to inspect for damage my guess is more from "rocks" than the water so far. Exhaust pipe(s) could be bent, broken or more. Will need to be seen in person to really know,

T

Response From Chemsto Top Rated Answer

Another problem,before the water incident,there was a strange and very loud vibrating noise from the exhaust pipe,i think. This would happen any time am idling in traffic and occasionally the idling would change on its own,revving between 500rpm and 1000 rpm. Please help,this was my first car and I have had it for close to 8 years and in my part of the universe mechanics are not known for their honesty especially when dealing with female drivers. Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry if you have had difficulties from mechanics in your area. Gender should have nothing to do with any of this. Plenty and increasingly females are taking up auto repair as a trade at least around me!

The idling changing BEFORE this should have been taken care of. Likely issue is vacuum leaks, air intake controls. The vibrations noted could be mounts for the engine/transmission or exhaust parts touching body metal parts which they shouldn't.

I have to guess as they don't sell this car where I am but usual layout would be such that exhaust parts run down and under car and must flex some there normally but still not touch anything. Where it flexes is a trouble spot over time without any adverse situation and may have broken there.

This shouldn't be all that hard to determine with some basic checks and seeing it. If you have sustained damage from whatever in the puddle it will not be known as any exact fix from any known ordinary wear and tear so must be seen.

The exhaust parts would have also been hot and sudden shock of water alone could have caused damage.

If you really feel you have trouble with your area shops then ask around for where people go who are happy with assorted service for their vehicles.

Keep trying. This could be what I'm thinking as exhaust issues and items getting hot that shouldn't and might even be dangerous to continue using this car until it's found and fixed. If bad enough and you are insured for damage it may be a claim with insurance. Can't know from here,

T

1990 Nissan Pickup - Overheating/No Heat

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From Britches on 1990 Nissan Pickup - Overheating/No Heat

Hello,

I have a 1990 Nissan pickup. Right now it has no thermostat and runs no higher than the "C" on the temperature gauge. If the thermostat is installed, it runs hot. Here's a timeline of what's happened to it as well as what's been done to it:

1. Timing chain wore a hole in the timing chain cover causing the truck to overheat.
2. Timing chain cover was replaced and a new timing chain kit was installed.
3. Truck was overheating so we turned the heat on to help cool engine and no heat came out of vents.
4. New water pump and thermostat were installed.
5. Truck was still overheating and still had no heat so I had someone check for blockage in the lines and none were found.

I really want to get the thermostat installed so I can get it up to operating temperature. Why does it run hot when the thermostat is installed and why is there no heat?

Thanks in advance!

Response From jespo

You need the t-stat for the heater to work . So open the radiator cap, start it, look inside the radiator see if the fluid is moving, if not the radiator is blocked. Usually it would be the t-stat but because you don't have one it can't be that. Also look at the upper and lower radiator hoses see if they squeeze shut by themselves, if so replace. Make sure radiator is full of 25% water and 75% anti-freeze or all anti-freeze. A bad tune up would also make it over heat. No oil will make it over heat. Bad carb will make it over heat.

Response From Britches

If the radiator was blocked, wouldn't the truck overheat with the thermostat out? I assumed the radiator wasn't blocked because I figured if it was, the truck would overheat even without the thermostat in. However, without the thermostat, it runs super cool. With the thermostat, it overheats.
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You need the t-stat for the heater to work . So open the radiator cap, start it, look inside the radiator see if the fluid is moving, if not the radiator is blocked. Usually it would be the t-stat but because you don't have one it can't be that. Also look at the upper and lower radiator hoses see if they squeeze shut by themselves, if so replace. Make sure radiator is full of 25% water and 75% anti-freeze or all anti-freeze. A bad tune up would also make it over heat. No oil will make it over heat. Bad carb will make it over heat.

Response From Britches

Someone suggested it might be a blown head gasket. What are you guy's thoughts on this?

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

Signs of blown gasket, steam from exhaust pipe/sometimes rough running/overflow of antifreeze, do a compression check when in dout, you could have a bad temp sending unit?,does this vehicle have a fan clutch.The last time I ran into a problem like this I had found several cooling passages clogged up with corrosion thru out the heads and block

Response From slipperyslope

If the engine wasn`t overheating before the timing chain episode,and wasn`t severely "cooked" when the timing cover wore through,I would think there is most likely air trapped inside the cooling system. Is there a bleed valve anywhere on the engine? If so open the valve with the engine off and add coolant to the system.IT COULD TAKE A WHILE! If no bleed valve see if there is a small hose up high on engine that can be removed to allow air to be bled off. It`s worth a try.

Response From Britches

I'm not sure if this helps, but my mechanic said that both the lines going to the heater core are still cold even when the engine is overheating.

Response From Guest

Just wanted to thank everyone for their help and advice! The problem has been fixed! He flushed the system, installed the thermostat, and bled the system. Now the heat works and the system doesn't overheat. Thanks again!

Response From Guest

You need the t-stat for the heater to work . So open the radiator cap, start it, look inside the radiator see if the fluid is moving, if not the radiator is blocked. Usually it would be the t-stat but because you don't have one it can't be that. Also look at the upper and lower radiator hoses see if they squeeze shut by themselves, if so replace. Make sure radiator is full of 25% water and 75% anti-freeze or all anti-freeze. A bad tune up would also make it over heat. No oil will make it over heat. Bad carb will make it over heat.

If the radiator was blocked, wouldn't the truck overheat with the thermostat out? I assumed the radiator wasn't blocked because I figured if it was, the truck would overheat even without the thermostat in. However, without the thermostat, it runs super cool. With the thermostat, it overheats.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Partially agree with jespo. No t-stat will run a flow of coolant more than useful to just the front of the engine and can be overheating where not detected. Boiling coolant won't transfer heat nor does air in the system.

The radiator is suspect. I'll suggest just 50/50 anti-freeze as higher concentrations don't transfer heat well and alone can cause overheating! NEVER USE STRAIGHT ANTI-FREEZE! Without water anti-freeze will turn to slush when cold and with water stays a liquid.

T-stats are mandatory as they also allow for mixing of the coolant within the engine to be a uniform temp and without one they may only cool locally where the gauge reads the temp. An engine that boils at one end and overheats at the other is highly subject to damage from uneven expansion of metal parts,

T