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Walker
2006 Lincoln Zephyr Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.0L Walker - Walker Front Pipe

P311-0EEF5B8    50349  New

Qty:
$91.01
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Spherical Flare W/ 2 Bolt Loose Flange And 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Max Year Covered: 2012
    • Min Year Covered: 2006
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Fusion
    • Most Popular Year: 2010
    • Outlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Overall Length: 27.375
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 474347
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Lincoln Zephyr FWD V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Walker
1995 Lincoln Continental Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 4.6L Walker - Walker Flex Pipe

P311-5F11119    51005  New

Qty:
$66.01
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Flex Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Max Year Covered: 2002
    • Min Year Covered: 1995
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Taurus
    • Most Popular Year: 1999
    • Outlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Overall Length: 10.750
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 88828
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Lincoln Continental V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Walker
2009 Lincoln Town Car Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 4.6L Walker - Walker H Pipe

P311-5CD603C    50441  New

Qty:
$61.43
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Dual Exhaust; Except Limousine
  • Walker H Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: S3
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Max Year Covered: 2011
    • Min Year Covered: 2003
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Lincoln Town Car
    • Most Popular Year: 2003
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 39.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 228275
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Lincoln Town Car Executive V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Walker
2007 Lincoln Mark LT Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 5.4L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-23DE71B    52357  New

Qty:
$11.96
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.500
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.500
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Inside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 2008
    • Min Year Covered: 2004
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford F-150
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.500
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 21.500
    • Product Description: Extension Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 1824199
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Wheel FeedBase Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Lincoln Mark LT 138.5 V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -
Walker
2003 Lincoln Navigator Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 5.4L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-51524A9    53447  New

Qty:
$25.38
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.750
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.750
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Inside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2003
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Expedition
    • Most Popular Year: 2003
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.750
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 32.250
    • Product Description: Extension Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 643127
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Lincoln Navigator V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -
Walker
1992 Lincoln Continental Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.8L Walker - Walker Flex Pipe

P311-1FA5180    42179  New

Qty:
$104.50
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Flex Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Max Year Covered: 1995
    • Min Year Covered: 1990
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Taurus
    • Most Popular Year: 1995
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 14.375
    • Product Description: Flex Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 89329
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Lincoln Continental V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
Walker
1990 Lincoln Town Car Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 5.0L Walker - Walker H Pipe

P311-4904B32    40492  New

Qty:
$80.13
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Dual Exhaust
  • Walker H Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Mandrel Bent: N
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1982
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Lincoln Town Car
    • Most Popular Year: 1988
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 43.500
    • Pipe Thickness: 0.050
    • Product Description: H-pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 42542
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Lincoln Town Car V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Walker
1990 Lincoln Continental Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.8L Walker - Walker Flex Pipe

P311-1FA5180    42179  New

Qty:
$104.50
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • After 11-1-89
  • Walker Flex Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Max Year Covered: 1995
    • Min Year Covered: 1990
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Taurus
    • Most Popular Year: 1995
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 14.375
    • Product Description: Flex Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 89329
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Lincoln Continental V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
Walker
2010 Lincoln MKZ Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.5L Walker - Walker Front Pipe

P311-59FD87E    53902  New

Qty:
$129.13
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 3.500
    • Class: N
    • Diámetro de entrada: 1.750
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange & 2 Bolt Loose Flange
    • Inlet Diameter: 1.750
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Mandrel Bent: N
    • Max Year Covered: 2012
    • Min Year Covered: 2007
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Fusion
    • Most Popular Year: 2012
    • Outlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 32.500
    • Pipe Diameter: 1.750
    • Pipe Thickness: 0.060
    • Product Description: Front Pipe (y)
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 135485
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Lincoln MKZ FWD V 6 Cyl 3.5L 213 3496

Latest Lincoln Repair and Exhaust Pipe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Lincoln towncar possibly transmission problems

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From superdoc28 on Lincoln towncar possibly transmission problems

Hello everyone, I have a 2000 lincoln towncar executive, recently i got rear ended by an infiniti i30 and there was light cosmetic damage(no dents) to the back bumper its a strong car and some muffler and underbody damage. After the accident as i drove the car home, it wouldn't accelerate past 40mph, the speed would slowly go down after hitting 40 and the engine would just rev up if i pressed the acceleration and it would only go back up if the speed hit 20mph, only to go back up to 40mph. My question is this, could this be due to the accident?? How would i go about proving it was due to accident? THe insurance company is only taking responsibility for the back damage and saying that this was not due to the accident. Can it be due to the accident? and what diagnosis tests would i have to ask for. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

First........... you have to determine what happened before you try to figure out why it happened.

Response From superdoc28

ok....so how would i go about doing that? its my only car, i know its old, but it was running decent before the accident.

Response From Hammer Time

The only way you are going to find out is to get it to a transmission specialist so he can determine what is going on there.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer


After the accident as i drove the car home, it wouldn't accelerate past 40mph, the speed would slowly go down after hitting 40 and the engine would just rev up if i pressed the acceleration and it would only go back up if the speed hit 20mph, only to go back up to 40mph.
some muffler and underbody damage.



So your saying top speed is 40 mph? Did you make sure the exhaust pipe wasn't smashed or kinked shut?

Response From Hammer Time

I thought of that but this seems to point away from that.

the engine would just rev up if i pressed the acceleration

Response From Discretesignals

I'm having a hard time trying to make sense from his statement. It could be revving up either because the transmission is slipping or the tranmission downshifted, but if the exhaust was corked the engine shouldn't rev up beyond how ever much the exhaust is restricted.

Have you checked the transmission fluid level? How damaged is the exhaust system?

Response From superdoc28

not sure how damaged the exhaust system is, could a rear ending cause the transmission to get damaged like that though?

Response From Discretesignals

Well, if they are replacing the muffler it must have gotten pretty screwed up in the accident. The transmission is in the middle of the car. Really the only way the transmission would get messed up in a rear end collosion is if the driveshaft got pushed up into it. The exhaust system runs around the transmission though, so it could have gotten into an electrical harness for the transmission. Only the person working on it knows what is going on here.

P.S. you don't have to make a bunch of one lined posts, you can edit and add additional information to one post. I don't need 40 emails.

Response From superdoc28

The problem is the insurance company isn't even willing to diagnose the engine because they don't believe its related to the accident since its not a front end damage, i have to take it to a third party and get a diagnostic which proves somehow that it is accidental related, so the insurance can even consider it, would pep boys do something like that? what type of mechanic is the right person to diagnose and let me know its accident related, so i don't go to multiple places and waste money i don't have.

Response From superdoc28

when i was driving the car after the accident, it just felt like it wasn't going into 3rd gear, after second it was stuck, as far as i could tell, but not an expert in cars

Response From superdoc28

to be very honest i have no idea, i do know the body shop from the insurance company are in the process of changing the muffler.

Trasmission fluid and filter change...dropping pan

Showing 2 out of 29 Posts | Show 27 Hidden Posts
Question From MarineGrunt on Trasmission fluid and filter change...dropping pan

I decided to go ahead and change the transmission fluid and filter in the 2003 Sierra earlier. What is normally a simple procedure in most vehicles has me pissed off! The shift linkage bracket is in the way of dropping the pan. It's either that or an exhaust pipe. The linkage bracket is held on by a torx bolt. Problem is, the bit doesn't want to stay in there. I'm wondering if it was stripped by a previous owner. The exhaust nuts don't wanna come off. I tried loosening the transmission mount and raising it a few inches but to no avail. Any other ideas? I don't have a torch except for one for plumbing with mapp gas. Should I try and heat the exhaust bolts? I did coat them down with some blaster and figure I'll let em sit overnight. Hopefully they come off nice and easy in the morning but I doubt it.

I always change all the fluids when I purchase a used vehicle but this one may have me think twice next time!

Response From nickwarner

Welcome to our world. Do you live in the rustbelt by chance? If you do, I guarantee you don't want to touch those exhaust bolts unless you just feel like you don't scream profanity loudly on a regular enough basis. I live in WI so the salt has motivated me to raise children whose vocabulary is much more colored than it should be from being in the shop. With those bolts I just torch them off to get the pipe out of the way. Most of the time you can't get a socket on whats left of the head anyway. Once the pipe is out I weld nuts onto the remaining part of the stud, heat the manifold flange to a nice glow with a torch, then use an impact on my welded bolt. You'll find religion fast because you're praying like hell the rest of the stud doesn't snap off flush. If you are fortunate not to live in the rustbelt, and the nuts have well defined edges still, you may get them off with a good soaking of PB Blaster like you did and heat from your MAPP torch. I tend to have less of them snap off with a 3/8 impact gun than a ratchet for some reason.

Are you dead certain you have the right sized torx bit in the bracket bolt? Can you visually see the head of it? Spray brake cleaner on it followed by blowing with compressed air. Dirt packs in them real easy and won't let you get in deep enough if you can't get it out. If it still rides out when cleaned out, Try the next size up bit. May need to gently tap it in with a hammer to get it to go in enough. Go back to finding religion while turning it as mentioned about.

When you do finally get it out, go drink heavily and swear to yourself you will never want to do that again.

Response From MarineGrunt

Ha! I needed a good laugh! IL here so I'm in the Rustbelt. The exhaust bolts are still square so there could be hope. I have access to a welder at my hall but that's nowhere close to where the truck is now. I tried blowing air in the torx but was already pissed by that point. I had been messing with it for quite some time, it was dark, and I was laying on my back with tools gouging me in my back. I think I'll attempt cleaning the torx with a clear mind in the morning. To be honest, I looked at it with a mirror and it didn't look stripped. I bet you're right about dirt being packed in. Thanks for the tips and the humor!

Response From Hammer Time

Why are you even messing with that stuff?

Just drive it to a shop, hand the man $100 and tell him to hook up his machine and replace all the fluid. There is no benefit to dropping the pan. If the filter is plugged, then it's already too late for that transmission. The machine will replace ALL the fluid where dropping the pan will not.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

MarineGrunt now (MG) if that's OK with you. Do use PB on anything everywhere you ever think you may need to remove later. A case of that stuff is better than what language classes you'll need as Nick so eloquently described. Then cover those areas with spray grease, brush in cap grease (Permatex Anti-seize) on exhaust things.

Do everything especially any fuel line flare nuts and lines, trans, brake EVERTHING - cable parts line hold down bolts and hardware. You'll love it later if there.

Transmission service: Can be done as HT says leaving it in place. You decide on the risk of breaking things to do it pan down or trust that full fluid change which is really better is the way for you. It's personal as I like to see inside the pans, clean them all up. Also like synthetics anywhere I can with hopes things will last near forever but almost 100% (less collisions) vehicles fail to general rust here.

That Torx bolt: Still clean that out and verify you have the right size. Some of those might have had an Allen head used on them. When it's down and dirty and one must be removed have some nice quality tools and hammer in what fits tight for the kill replace what didn't like that.

Heat: Mapp alone (not a plumber) is hot but not quite enough or fast enough. Oxy/Acet (to Rustbelters known as the BLUE WRENCH) you can get and target just what should be glowing hot fast and works. Of course a lot of thought on what is nearby with that heat.

All that crap just to get at what you need to do. Smile, whoever invented RUST and the MOSQUITO can stuff it!

Tom

Response From MarineGrunt

I unhooked the transmission cooler hose and completely flushed it. But, I do wish I would've taken it to a shop for this one! I didnt think itthe would be suchboring a pain in the ass. I've always been the type to do it myself if I can instead of paying someone else to do it. I also like knowing it was done and done right. I do need to find a good reputable shop for backup tho. When I took the truck to the dealership last week for diagnosis that was only the second time in my life I've ever taken any vehicle to a shop. I do know when this tranny needs flushed again it will be done by a shop!

Thanks forto the tipu Tom. Using anti seize on everything I take apart is a great tip. I'm going to start doing that. I use synthetic in everything.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Things don't have to be a dealer or independent shop. Just factor some costs of owning certain things vs how many times you would use it to pay off. Even when in biz (long retired) you calculate that. Did I ever need a $100,000 buck alignment machine and place? Could never have paid off in my own situation.

Special tools to deal with rounded nuts, bolts to "yikes" having to extract studs broken off you probably will get your money's worth out of,

Tom

Response From MarineGrunt

The one thing I like about working on my own stuff is that if I purchase new tools for a job it is still normally cheaper than taking it somewhere. Plus, I get new tools out of it. Well, I at least use that as an excuse to keep my wife from getting on me! If I need a certain specialty tool I don't have, or wont use much, we have a Carquest here in town that loans them out free of charge.

Response From Hammer Time

The one thing I like about working on my own stuff is that if I purchase new tools for a job it is still normally cheaper than taking it somewhere. Plus, I get new tools out of it.

Times are changing on that stuff. There isn't much that costs less that $300 these days and everything is starting to require special stuff/ Ever since they started to come out with VVT engines, the tools to do a timing belt can cost $500 and only work on one engine.

Response From MarineGrunt

I didn't need to hear that HT! Ouch!

Nick, I will definitely be picking up some of the tools you mentioned. I almost ran out and bought a torch setup a few hours ago! Not because I wanted it but because I needed it! I will never again attempt a transmission flush on this truck. It has been a freaking nightmare. After trying all morning to get the two torx bolts off and try the exhaust, I finally just cleaned up the pan in place. The front was tipped down enough to get inside and along the top in order to clean it up. There was also enough room to replace the filter. It wasn't easy by any means but doable. I filled it up and took it for a test drive. It lacked power so I knew something wasn't right. I dropped the pan again and looked inside with a mirror. I somehow broke the 1-2 shift solenoid. I figured I had to drop the pan to replace that so I started the gut wrenching processes all over again. So, I called my stepdad to borrow his torch but he is out of oxy. Crap. I tried heating again with mapp gas but to no avail. I then screwed with the torx bolts for another hour. I should've known that wasn't gonna happen. I just couldn't seem to get my hands in the right position while laying on my back. I then decided to take a closer look at the solenoid with a mirror. I then noticed the metal clip holding the solenoid in. I was able to remove the clip and pull out the solenoid. Carquest didn't have one in stock but it will be here in the morning. Hopefully all goes smooth tomorrow and the solenoid is the only issue. With my luck I wouldn't bet on it.

Well HT, you were right like usual. Next time I'll take it to a shop, hand the man a hundred dollar bill, sit on my butt, drink a pepsi, and look at a Playboy magazine while waiting. I never would've thought it would've been this much trouble. I think I'll blame the rusty exhaust bolts on Nick since the truck originated in Wisconsin.

I think I'll ask advice even before airing up a tire from now on.

Response From nickwarner

Don't hold the bolts against me. I live in WI but I'm from Alaska originally. We don't use salt up there.

Response From MarineGrunt

I think I'll move to Alaska just for that reason.

I was so pissed earlier I almost towed the truck to a muffler shop for all new exhaust just so I'd then be able ti get them off in order to pull the tranny pan. It's a good thing I live in a small town because if there was a muffler shop nearby I probably would've. It has a tiny hole in the muffler so it wouldn't have been for nothing. For being a Rustbelt truck I'm surprised the body and frame doesn't have more rust. It has some light surface rust on the rockers at the very bottom but is completely solid.

I'm off to bed. The back of my hands are torn up and my body is sore from laying under the truck all day. Thanks for sticking with me through all of my struggles. I'm looking forward to waking up in the morning and seeing HT say something like, "you idiot, next time don't be such a tight ass!"

Response From Hammer Time

say something like, "you idiot, next time don't be such a tight ass!"

Hahaha...........

Nope, you did that yourself...............

Response From MarineGrunt

Yes I did and for good reason!

I was able to get the shift solenoid by feeling around. Due to the space and my position, I wasn't able to get my hand in there and also look at the same time. I torqued the pan and filled er up. Ran it up to Carquest and had them clear the code. I'm so glad this adventure is over!

HT....think I should change the fuel filter on the truck now?

Response From Hammer Time

Changing a fuel filter is never a bad thing but see how new it looks to determine if it's really necessary.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/frc/G3727/image/2/That style on the frame underside? FLARE NUTS! Rust - PB the sucker now and change it later or you'll be fixing lines. This type suck with line stuck solid inside flare nuts. Use good real flare nut wrenches. Smile, not a good place to use torches



Well you can and then wont have to worry about any other problems,

Tom

Response From MarineGrunt

It looks original and also very rusty. Gonna soak her down overnight and see how it goes. I'm not forcing it tho! Are the nuts metric? I off to purchase some flare wrenches. I hate to buy some just for this buy don't want any headaches. Especially after what I went thru with the tranny. I'm sure they will come in handy with other stuff.

Response From Hammer Time

The nut is 16mm. I use a 5/8 flare wrench. The filter can be 20mm or 21mm.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks HT.

Well, when it rains it pours. Luckily transmission is fine. No leaks. A little while ago I decided to take my boy to Steak n Shake for supper. It's about 20 miles away. It has been raining off and on all day. I pull into the parking lot and thought I noticed a spot up front. I get a few spots away and there wasn't. I threw it into reverse and backed into a spot about 75 feet back. When walking towards the door I noticed oil spots in the water. Of course the oil stops right where I stopped to throw it into reverse and makes a trail right to the truck. I look under the truck and and touch the droplets of fluid on the cross member. It's blue so I know it's the transfer case. We got home about a half hour ago so I jack it up and crawl under. It's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from although I'm guessing the seal. There is nothing on top or the upper half. There is fluid everywhere from where the driveshaft was throwing it around. The only other possible place would be where the case splits but I don't see it loosing that much fluid so fast. It was down exactly one quart.

It wasn't leaking before but I'm guessing when I raised the tranny a little trying to get the pan off it caused the leak. I don't know what else would cause it to start leaking that bad all of a sudden. It's a good thing I got the truck so cheap or else I would probably drive it off a cliff with me in it. Live and learn I guess. If it was throwing it out that fast I'd like to climb under and look to make sure where it's leaking from. Since it's the lower half I'm sure I'll be able to see it. Can I jack up the rear end, put it in gear, and take a look? I don't see why not but after the transmission ordeal I might even ask on here before I take a piss just to make sure I'm doing it right. Are there any other spots where these things are known to leak? Should I go to the dealership for a seal or does it matter?

Thanks again. Hopefully you all don't ban me from the forum due to being a pain in your ass!

Response From Hammer Time

It could also be due to the fresh oil too. It's not always a smart thing to change trans fluid. The high detergent content can dislodge varnish and sludge that has been sealing leaks until now.

Response From MarineGrunt

It's not the transmission that is leaking it's the transfer case.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, my bad

Response From MarineGrunt

I cleaned it up real good and hope to find the leak tomorrow. I'm pretty certain it's the rear seal. Is the rear seal pretty easy to replace? Any helpful tips? I'm sure I'll need some tools that I don't have. Would you mind letting me know which ones so I can be sure to get the loaner tools from Carquest before they close. I'm guessing I'll need a slide hammer to get the bearing but not sure what else if anything. Should I replace the bushing also?

Response From nickwarner

The rear seal of that shouldn't involve any bearing replacement or special tools. Take out the driveshaft, pop the seal off, put on the new one and go. They usually have a steel lip on the outside that a carefully used chisel can grab and you can pound it in a bit to break it away from the output end of the case. If you're in doubt where the oil is coming from, put some dye in it, set it on jackstands and put in in drive. Keep a black light shined on it and when you see the flourescent glow of the dye it will pinpoint the leak. Plus it makes white t-shirts look really cool.

Response From Hammer Time

Hey Nick................. Read this


http://autoforums.carjunky.com/gforum.cgi?post=125759;t=search_engine#125759

Response From nickwarner

That was the next one I read after I posted. I guess I'm proof that the smartest kid in special ed is still a retard.

Response From greasy one

So what happened? Hope there are no nearby cliffs.

Response From nickwarner

See the link in HT's post for the rest of the story

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

I have an Irwin bolt extractor set that grips the heads of rounded fasteners. Not too pricey and for being my neighbor one state over you will definately find them handy to have around. A smaller Tote-a-Torch type cutting setup that has smaller acetylene and 02 tanks would be a handy thing to have for what you do, and you don't go through a ton of gases with most DIY stuff so the smaller size of the tanks wouldn't be too bad. Check out Mississippi Welders Supply, Praxair or Airgas and see what they have. Had great luck with a Smith medium duty outfit and the torch even has a lifetime warranty.As far as welders, I always prefer 220 but if you only have 110 in your garage you can find some nice outfits from Miller, ESAB and Lincoln. Some can use both voltages so you can have the higher power if you get to a 220 source. Just don't tell the wife ANYTHING about how much you paid and get her some flowers to distract her.

Keep a good eye on pawn shops too. I see full sets of Snap-On stuff all the time for sometimes real cheap. Keep your eyes open for the Flank Drive wrenches especially. You'll thank me if you ever get a set, trust me. With the rust you deal with its the only way to go and I couldn't function without mine. Some good deals on that stuff on Craigslist, but keep an eye open as sometimes its crackheads selling stuff from a burglary and anything with serial numbers could cause you trouble.

My Little Chariot Failed! P0174 & P0171

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Blessedpilot on My Little Chariot Failed! P0174 & P0171

Hi! This is my first post here so be gentle!!!

I have a 1997 Lincoln Town Car that I tried to get inspected but it failed due to the "check eng light" being on . The codes I was given were P0174 (syst too lean bank 2) and P0171 (syst too lean bank 1).

The inspector reset the check eng light and all codes were erased. He said to drive it for 60 miles or so and see if the light comes back on. He said if it does, it might need a new fuel filter or it might need to have the fuel syst serviced. I've driven it about 40 mi so far and the check eng light has not illuminated. I even stopped my Autozone to see if any codes would show on their tester. None did.

My question is, if the light does not re-illuminate in another 20 or 30 miles, should I take it back up to them and tell them the light did not come back on and to reinspect it? Or, should I take it somewhere else (before the light comes back on) and not even mention that it failed before to see if it will pass this time? I guess maybe if I took it somewhere else and perhaps it showed up in the computer somehow that it failed somewhere else, I could tell them that I took care of the problem myself. Right?

Thanks from Texas!!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

In WA, as long as the readiness monitors have completed, and no codes stored, it should pass. WA will allow one readiness monitor to be incomplete, and the EVAP is usually the last one to complete. Not sure about your state.
And, yes, a plugged fuel filter can cause a lean condition; There are also, other reasons. If the CEL comes back on, you really should address the problem. Running too lean is not a good thing.

Response From way2old

See if you can get someone to test your fuel pressure. If pressure is low (plugged filter--weak pump) it can give those codes. Also the MAF could cause those codes. A vacuum leak that affects both sides can also be the cause. Good luck.

Response From Blessedpilot

Thanks for the suggestions. Where would be the best place to take it to test the fuel pressure? Just a local mechanic or can most oil change places do that sort of thing? Is there an easy way to do it myself?

Thanks again

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi!

Are you apt to do the work on this car at all? You can buy a tester at that AutoZone you went to if you want to test it yourself but are you up to the repair anyway if a fuel pump is the problem? Even for a filter?

I suggest having a local shop or tech check the pressure for you. Chances are the quick lube places won't do this service but no harm in asking.

More: Do you have a "grace" period to legally drive this car to even see if the service light will come back on? It might not and you may be all set for inspection shortly. I'd still plan on routine service like a new fuel filter and all the other maint items.

Here in Massachusetts inpections are done AFTER you register the car and pay a fortune in fees - THEN you can go try for a "sticker" within 7 days grace from purchase. Ok- if your car doesn't communicate with the "People's Republic of Mass" registry of motor vehicles that all is well with emissions (mod yrs 1996 and newer) then you have 30 days for a free retest. No waiver for safety items - technically you aren't to drive the car at all till fixed!

Here's the tester AutoZone shows if you wanted to check your own......

Actron / 0-100 PSI Fuel Pressure Tester Kit with Ford Fuel Line Adapter About this product: Part Number: CP7818 Weight: 1.0 lbs. Pricing: $39.99 Availability: Store: Normally stocked at your local store.


**********

Let us know what your are apt to fix yourself or not,

T

Response From Blessedpilot

Hi and thanks again for the info. I dont mind getting dirty and doing the work myself. However, I dont have very much automotive knowledge but am very willing to learn. I am pretty cheap and rather than paying some oil change place $79.99 or something ridiculous like that just to check my fuel pressure, I would much rather get a little dirty and pay $40 for a pressure tester and do it myself. If the pressure is low, I have know problem getting dirty and replacing the fuel filter myself. Then again, I dont know how to use the tester or even how to locate the fuel filter, pump, etc...

Also, I ran the car by a garage that they state "specializes in emission repairs" and he told me with those codes he would need to hook it up to their machine and see what exactly is going on in there. This fee: $125 + tax! OUCH! That doesnt fix the problem or anything!!! They can charge that just to "hook it up" to their machine! Wow, I am in the wrong profession! Sorry, I am pretty cheap and would rather do the work myself and use their "machine" as a last resort. I dont mind getting dirty at all. I would rather get dirty and stock up on new tools in the garage doing the work myself than pay that for "hooking it up" to that machine!

I wish I had more knowledge in these things but I've never had anyone show me how.

I once had a '76 chevy pickup though and was able to do the oil changes myself. I was very proud of being able to do that. I even replaced the starter on it and performed a tune up! But that was many years ago and on a much less computerized, less sophisticated machine!

As far as a grace period goes in TX, I dont think I am supposed to drive it with an out of date sticker. (I have driven the vehicle about 50 miles since inspection and the light still has not come back on!) It stinks that inspection places still charge you even if your vehicle fails. So I had to pay the $40 even though I got no sticker out of the deal. However, the receipt stated that if repairs are made and the vehicle is returned for reinspection w/in 15 days, that they would reinspect the car at no additional charge. Therefore, I am anxious to get the vehicle up there and reinspected w/in this 15 day period.

So, hypothetically speaking, if I buy the pressure tester and test the fuel press myself, (and pressure is normal), then can I safely assume that all is ok and take it back up for reinspection? Then, lets say I test it myself and pressure is low. What would be my next step? Replace fuel filter and retest? Still low, replace fuel pump? What about this MAF thing that was mentioned earlier? I know nothing about that thing.

Sorry its such a long post but anymore advice is greatly appreciated,
Blessedpilot

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Blessedpilot; You aren't Sully, are you? Anyway, if you've driven 50 miles without the CEL coming back on, your readiness monitors have surely completed by now. I'd have it retested before you spend any more money. If, for some reason they have not, they'll probably just tell you to drive some more. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace that fuel filter, regardless, if it's been on there a long time. The MAF sensor is very easy to remove and clean. Be sure your fuel tank is between 1/2 and 3/4 full. Too little fuel or too much fuel, it will take a long time for the EVAP monitor to complete. Good luck.

Response From Blessedpilot

Lol. Nope, no seaplane flights for me!

Thansk again for all the great advice. I have driven now for over 50 miles and the light still has not come back on. I actually went to Autozone today intent on purchasing a new fuel filter and the guy behind the desk kind of discouraged me a little bit. I told him the whole ordeal and he pretty much told me that when they hook that emission test machine up again that the codes will still register. I was kind of assuming that since the system was cleared that any codes would remain undetectable unless the system "tripped" again with fresh codes. Do yall know how that emission machine works? Do they put something in the tail pipe to get readings or are they just checking fault codes or both? I think I will go back up there tomorrow though and get that fuel filter. I am sure its way overdue for replacement and its only about $8.

So in yalls best estimates, If I replace the fuel filter and the light remains off, should I take it back up for reinspection feeling pretty confident that it will pass this time?

As far as the MAF sensor, is it hard to locate? How about cleaning? How should I go about that?

Thanks again,
Blessedpilot

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/1570255.jpgThe black, plastic looking thing-a-ma-bob is the MAF sensor. When you take it off, you'll see a diode looking thinga ma ging that may look a little fuzzy. Just clean it, gently, with carb cleaner or alchohol (don't use Maker's Mark) with a Q tip. Not sure about TX emissions, but WA will only plug into your OBD II connnector. Tail pipe emissions won't be checked. WA only checks for codes stored and CEL operation. This is '96 and newer, of course.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Same inspection here in MA. The car tells the machine it's ok for model years 96 and up w OBDII systems. They gave up testing by tailpipe unless there's something to see coming out. They change the rules by the hour so who knows for today? Too many cars flew off or damaged in testing alone by dyno.

If the CEL has remained OFF then it should be fine to retest by now! The car's puter will remember a slight glitch and if it can't self correct after a few tries it will light that light. It might say it "watching" something for a grace period in which case the scan will show "not ready" as it hasn't collected enough data. The state check by default will "reject" a vehicle IF the vehicle can't tell it that it's ok! It's legal to drive it for a time like that awaiting the fix. They use a black "R" (reject) sticker which means it's safe and under "grace" for a while - a RED "R" essentially means the car can't be used on public roads!

The inspection machine (I don't use those at all) are not there to tell you exactly what to fix - just that it isn't up to passing the test. It get's archived on the vehicle's VIN forever available thru CarFax what happened and when.

Go get the sticker NOW,

T

Response From Blessedpilot

Thanks so much for all the advice. I'm gonna replace that filter and try to clean that MAF a bit and give it another shot. I'll let yall know how it turns out.

Thanks again,
BlessedPilot

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If running well right now go get your free recheck now before doing anything more which might just cause another temporary code if engine struggles with empty new fuel filter (some may) or isn't pleased having that sensor even unplugged or cleaned right now if running well right now,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

blessedpilot/TEX :

Just know you can go broke buying tools for one time use and although this biz is costly to consumers you'd freak at the cost to just be able to do it! Mega thousands in tools equipment, - training, fees, permits, hazmat control and disposal, taxes - things that cost whether a customer comes by or not! Ya - there's decent $ if you work hard and treat folks well - you go home dirty, smell like an exhaust pipe, cuts, burns - keep going. Man - if you aren't a masochist it's not for you! Then you get the pissed off customers who think you are just out to get them! Arggh!

Ok: Go get your tester and go get your free retrial while the check/service engine light is off. Leave it off and ask to leave it alone if it somehow hasn't had enough time, , miles, or cycles of warm ups and cool downs. That may end the inspection thing or tell you that more is needed. Tester probably comes with detailed instructions for use - hope so.

Fuel filter suggested above: It may use "spring locked" things to release so you need a tool for that.

IMPORTANT! Anything to do with fuel and fuel under pressure in and around sparks and a hot engine has it's dangers of course. Use all common sense and ABSOLUTELY HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER RATED FOR FUEL/GREASE at the ready! I further suggest finding outdoor, level cement surface place to work when dealing with possible fuel spills like these can.

Ask away when in doubt. Several of us are here routinely or get help directly when called for,

T

1982 Ford Granada 3.3L A few million miles?

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From irishmantx on 1982 Ford Granada 3.3L A few million miles?

Dear Group,

1982 Ford Granada 3.3L engine. Oily soot found coming out of the tail pipe, and
uses oil more often than used to. (long skid mark / sooty oil stain) from the
exhaust pipe. Original engine since 1982, possibly warning sign engine might
go? It's used heavily and takes me to work back and forth serving as the only
family 'back up' car. (odometer has rolled a few times since original 25,000 miles
back in 1984.)

Is this a sign of bad times for this engine? This particular engine was assembled
in Canada, smooth good solid running engine. If possible, I rather go with a good
long block.

Things done to this car.

Replaced battery, MT-56 Interstate. Replaced Alternator, Water pump (at same time)
radiator hoses, belts, rear brakes (L/R), front disk brake line hose (L/R), coil springs
(x4 w/air conditioner), rear shocks, front struts, thermostat replaced, carb replaced,
front weather strip (L/R) replaced, ignition module, voltage regulator, negative battery
cable electrically taped black since it was originally 'red' possibly mistake of positive cable.
Wheel bearings serviced, rack and pinion steering unit replaced, and head lamps replaced.

Oily sooty exhaust noticeable after idle and running the engine, leaving approx 1 to 2 foot
long 'skid mark' or 'skid stain' on ground / floor of garage. Uses oil more frequently as it
takes a quart every week or after heavy use. Possible warning sign of engine failure?

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531




Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Some confusion with just what this engine is. Is this the 200 CID straight six with one bbl carb? I just looked up a valve cover gasket with mixed info. 3.3 should = 200 CID inch and gasket like this.................

/


With the miles it's hard to say as so many things are possible. Any blue smoke? If any smoke out tailpipe what color? Does this oily soot run out tailpipe leaving a streaked mix of part burned oil and gas - did I understand that properly?

Is is running well now despite the mess it makes? What's taxing my mind is IF it runs on all six cyl. and doesn't smoke than a fair amount of raw fuel or oil is getting in the exhaust. Using some oil at VERY high miles isn't totally amazing nor means there isn't more left to go.

Lots to think about with this. Some engines will put out a trail a water from condensation in the cold exhaust but mostly when colder, humid air and would be dirty but would quit it when warmed up.

Could be sludge if any now not be allowing oil return to pan and valve guides are sucking down oil way too fast but if running well that would smoke and make a scene. You can get a good idea sometimes about sludge just looking in oil fill cap or take valve cover off for a real good look.

IMO if engine has to go the head need be in same condition or reworked. I didn't find reman whole engine available but they should be but not common parts houses. Used at the age would be rare to find a known good whole engine but if diagnosis shows this one is that worn I'd ask a reputable salvage yard for exact fit replacement.

It probably is worth paying for a professional diagnosis, compression and other observations to declare engine's needs.

Sorry for the long response - this has so many possibilities by age and miles it's an open book without some serious diagnostics,

Tom

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,

That looks about right!! Some blue smoke does puff out... To be honest, it runs 'OK' BUT....
Since the engine is original, and it takes more oil than normal, leaving a 1 to 2 foot stain of
streaking oil / exhaust soot, I surmise this engine is tired.

I rather get total complete long block with a warranty. I could get her over to a shop for
a full compression and engine diagnostic. At least see where I stand on the shape of this
engine. Or g-d forbid, engine goes, then get her towed. I told my dad (who owns the car)
about this.

One bit of good news, I got the new computer box w/chip back into my 1988 GMC S15
and it 'appears' to run smoothly. Got to test a few more times at certain times the truck
acts up and breaks down. :P So far so good. I hope, fingers crossed.. toes crossed, knocking
on all kinds of wood. lol

Well, I thought it could be something serious about the oily sooty exhaust. I never see this
car act that way. It runs a bit louder, takes more oil than normal, and now I remember I see
piddle leaks toward the front and back of the engine. Like 3 to 6 piddles of oil toward the front,
and 2 to 4 piddles of oil toward the back of the engine. Not sure if it's valve cover or gasket
warped and going bad. When I start the engine, it makes a rattle rattle noise... then goes away.
Belts squeal and hard to keep speed when I get past Warp 7 (70 mph) it shakes, may need front
end alignment, and new tires. :) I keep her between Warp 1 (10 mph) to Warp 6.5 (65 mph).

At any rate, this car is my family heirloom and I help spend money on the C-4 Transmission. I
don't mind saving up for the engine. I already spent money on the rest of the previous posted
items.

It's a 3.3 liter, 200ci engine, Straight 6 engine. Will fuel injection be better than carb?

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531




Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK: This engine has probably had it and what you are experiencing is plain wear from VERY high miles with blowby past pistons and their rings and that will put pressure into crankcase instead of the minute vacuum it should be via the PCV valve. Bet it you just pull the dipstick while idling it blow out when it really should be slightly sucking in air there. Valve guids in head and their seals sucking in oil beyond what it can burn so some actually makes it out the exhaust!

BTW - none of this is good for the cat. converter which is probably dead and kinda surprised it isn't all clogged up.

The shaking is probably tire, wheel, wheel bearing adjustment. Alignment alone really shouldn't be the cause of imbalance or causing shaking if off but would make the cause worse if badly out of spec. With the miles you have to check everything - front end parts even if already done could need them again at a "few million" miles

Carb vs fuel injection. Late carbs were hard to meet emmsions and got more complicated and fussier than much older than this year of vehicle. You really can't switch it to injected as that would be an engineering project and legalities of the car could or would be an issue. Totally impractical and too involved to even think about that.

If you are going to invest in the reman engine start checking for what's available. Ford themselves might still have a reman available. It would be a total stroke of magic to find a good low mile original that matched exactly at the age. Don't expect a reman engine to compete with original new for pounding miles on them. They can only be truly new once,

T

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,


Thanks for the info! I had gone out to my 'donor' Granada for
some hard to find parts. My "donor" Granada is a 4.2L which is
a 255ci v8. (It's being used as a donor car since its too costly to
fix immediately.)

Anyways, I did find an air filter intake hose from the wall to the
filter. The old one on my mom's 1982 Granada fell and crumbled
apart. It fit good, and I agree with you about the 3.3L 200 engine.

OK: This engine has probably had it and what you are experiencing is plain wear from VERY high miles with blowby past pistons and their rings and that will put pressure into crankcase instead of the minute vacuum it should be via the PCV valve. Bet it you just pull the dipstick while idling it blow out when it really should be slightly sucking in air there. Valve guids in head and their seals sucking in oil beyond what it can burn so some actually makes it out the exhaust!

I agree with you, mom, dad and I put WAY to many miles on this engine. The
engine was built in Canada and I give credit that maple syrup makes every
thing better. :) (: HA HA! ;) ;) ;) It spits oily soot at least 2ft from tail pipe,
and I must admit, this engine is tired. The car is still good, with Tender Loving
Care, I hope it remains for the next generation. Thanx Tom for your advice.
Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah, Happy Holidays. Hope you and yours have
a wonderful holiday season, and if you drink too much egg nog, have a backup
driver ready to take you home, or sleep it off in the back seat. ;)

Money is being saved up over time, and save up for a new
engine. I want an engine that has a warranty and there are
rebuilds, but I want a 3.3L 200ci, Straight 6 long block. Is it a
good idea to get new water pump, alternator, carb, fuel pump,
and other parts, or salvage them off of the old engine, and how
much for a catalytic converter?

If all else fails, what engine places do you recommend for a
long block replacement? I don't want the hassle and issues with
rebuild the heads and the block itself. I realize its too much to
put into fuel injection, however, if I am super wealthy, or I meet
a nice sweet, wealthy, rich, financially deep pocketed Jewish
sugar cougar, I might want to hire the guy's at Overhaulin and
do some 'upgrades' and the legal team to make it happen. HA!
Other than that, it's by the book and back to factory standard.

Shalom

irishmantx
76531


Response From Tom Greenleaf

The FORD cast iron straight six engines share quite a bit I recall. My own first was 144 CID in a 63 Falcon, a 200 CID in a 68 Falcon and by chance other Fords were all V8s. Some of these are identical with changes in stroke to change displacement. Many used the 250 CID then trucks went big on the 300 CID called a 4.9L.


What to replace with a reman engine:

If alternator is fine now re-use it. Water pump should be cheaper and probably would put a new not reman pump on. All new cooling system hoses and vacuum lines. Carb? I'd swap first and if needed just get a kit to rebuild it. Should be fairly straight forward if you have good instructions with the kit usually. rebuilt/reman for carbs is mostly a real good cleaning, new needle valve, accelerator pump and gaskets. The idle mix screw my have a hardened cap to prevent messing with the idle mixture. Procedures to remove that with a punch may come with a kit as there is a needle valve behind those - perhaps a "clutch" headed needle valve and you can buy just one socket for those head looks like white spot in this pic......

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Idea is not to tamper with them as too many folks fussed with them and messed them up. For a good cleaning you need to take that out though. With those or any count turn in to a gentle bottom so you can duplicate where it was. If all is lost bottom it (gently is the operative word) and back off about 2+1/2 turns to 3 should be about right. For DIY carb things there are a few special tools. Kit is cheap and should come with specs and a thing to measure float level. If real fussy you find spec of float(s) and weigh them as they can sink from soaking up gas or be heavier and the level of fuel in the bowl is critical for proper fuel mixture. By mid throttle or wide open the idle mix isn't being used at all and too many people think it is the whole adjustment - NOT.

Rebuilt units can be good but I've had tons that needed way too many adjustments that were off. For the vintage you would normally set the idle speed on any and if all is good that's about all. Late carbs were a pill and full of tamper proof crap which can be defeated for cleaning up small holes/ports for fuel flow. I did do a ton of carb work back when.

Catalytic converter: Generally I would suggest an OE one but with this vintage aftermarket should be fine and tons cheaper. Dunno - if welded into the front pipe you may need more tools to cut old one out with care so replacement can just be clamps like a muffler.

Can't say for everywhere but I can't think of a state in US legal to just use straight pipe if a vehicle came with a converter. A good one doesn't harm performance for this and most applications.

Not sure what reman engine will have with it. Ask so you know and if you are doing this at all replace old stuff like plug wires or tune-up things that don't come with it.

Truth is in decades of car stuff I've never used a reman engine - always fully checked out low mile complete used that was a perfect match - no games. All were 100% good with a history. This is just too old to get that lucky.

It was my training and my opinion which may not be everyone's but no reman engine will have the propensity to last as long as a good original. For those making Hot Rods and that - do what you want. For a practical driver leave as much original as possible with most things.

Save up. There's still lots to do with a replacement engine,

Tom

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,

OK, I'm still not sure where to go, I guess I'm asking amiss, I wanted some
recommendation on which place to find O.E.M. or 'original' style engines? I
am on a tighter than a lycra leather corset budget, and I wanted a place to
get a replacement engine. I really don't know the history of 'used' engines,
and often some want to sell bull and sell me a wore out engine 'worse' than
mine. :(

But if you don't know of any places to direct me to procure an engine that
is CAST IRON, most original, and or avoid places that sell undesirable engines.
That's OK. I'll ask the mechanic about to perform the 'surgery' to take care of
it. I believe the carb was replaced last year. It runs good, water pump and
alternator was replaced together last year. Kept full of 50/50.

Also what steering columns will fit this Granada? It's a fox foundation style
and I was 'informed' that most Mustang parts for 1982 would fit some parts
on the Granada. The rear end, drive shaft, and the dash top?

Just wanted to make sure I knew where I was going on replacing an engine.
It's a vital investment, and wanted to make sure I sounded like I know I was
asking for, instead of being baffled by bull. :P

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531


Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Engines: Holy cow - the exacting machine work to make one new is tough. A redo requires more specs to be checked and corrected that if all on paper you couldn't lift the book.

New and engine is cast. then line bored for as close to perfect for long shafts like crank and cam in this. New the engines each have their own DNA. You can't just swap crank bearing caps as once machined that's the fit for that one only. Even the machine tools for new only make so many "bores" before they are out of spec new! Redoing all that with a core engine is an art to itself and some come out well and some don't. They make parts that needed to be re bored to fit a new size but still it's a trade unto itself.

Cylinder walls don't wear evenly. When a cylinder fires the pressure of piston to cylinder wall is on one side so over time it loses it's perfect measurement for the travel of the piston. This is intense to get it all right at once.

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Parts that interchange: Salvage places have a ton of data for what was the same for what models and years. I don't think any of us have the software for all of that but a good clue on some. Mercury made the Monarch which was the same body and most mechanical parts - just trim and sheet metal style, shape to look a bit different. I just dunno what other Ford products used the same exact body and think this one was on it's own. I actually don't know this car that well. There were Fairmonts, Zephyrs that might share many parts to Granada. TMK and FORD used names randomly for a while around then it could be also the same platform as once a smaller LTD and Marquis - none with V8s TMK and were unit body cars not chassis. Even Lincoln made a Versailles (sp?) that was really a dressed up Granada. Any decent salvage yard should know what can interchange,

T

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,


With all of that said, worst case scenario, if and when there is a 'Warp Core Breach'
and a new warp engine is needed, chances are, it might be towed to a mechanic that
my folx trust, and would likely tell the mechanic to go find a new total long block that
will fit the car. My dad owns a 1994 Buick Century, and had to replace the engine since
a shade tree idiot did not change the oil and burned up the motor. The 'idiot' left town,
and stuck my folx a $3,500 front wheel drive engine. OR so the price for a front wheel
drive engine for a 1994 Buick Century. (NOT A NEW THREAD!)

Push comes to shove, its not 'my' car to make any decisions. It's the "mom and dad
back up utility car since dad don't want to drive his car as often as he wants" kind of
car. LOL. Tom thank you for the help, looks like I beg my mom and dad not to scrap
this cream puff, but get a new motor, after my obligated expected offer to help pay for
half of it. Full LONG BLOCK 3.3 Liter, 200ci, 6cylinder engine.

Since I drive it a lot, and did 'front' most of the repairs and parts, I hope to have some
say in keeping this car. It's a solid machine and scares a lot of the plastic car toy drivers,
when they see a "REAL" car on the road. :)

Shalom,
irishmantx
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