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Bosal
2004 Isuzu Rodeo Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.2L Bosal - Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe

P311-5ADAED0    740-639  New

Qty:
$101.67
Bosal Exhaust Pipe
  • Isuzu Axiom 02- Rodeo 00-02
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Isuzu Rodeo DOHC V 6 Cyl 3.2L - 3165
Bosal
Qty:
$108.09
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 95-7 HONDA / ISUZU
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Isuzu Oasis Front L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2234
Bosal
1997 Isuzu Oasis Exhaust Pipe 4 Cyl 2.2L Bosal - Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe

P311-555E772    753-247  New

Qty:
$67.99
Bosal Exhaust Pipe
  • 95-7 HONDA / ISUZU
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Isuzu Oasis L 4 Cyl 2.2L - 2156
Bosal
Qty:
$31.50
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front Right
  • 91-2 ISUZU RODEO A/T V6
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Isuzu Rodeo Manual Front Right V 6 Cyl 3.1L - 3137
Bosal
Qty:
$22.62
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front Right
  • 91-92 ISUZU RODEO-91-92 A/T
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Drive Type Position Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Isuzu Rodeo Automatic 4WD Front Right V 6 Cyl 3.1L - 3137
Bosal
Qty:
$103.93
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 94-95 HONDA PASSPORT A/T
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Isuzu Rodeo Automatic Front V 6 Cyl 3.2L - 3165
Bosal
Qty:
$54.11
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 89-91 ISUZU TROOPER
  • Long Wheelbase
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Wheel FeedBase Position Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Isuzu Trooper 4WD 104.3 Front L 4 Cyl 2.6L - 2559
Bosal
Qty:
$54.11
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 89-91 ISUZU TROOPER
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Isuzu Trooper Front L 4 Cyl 2.6L - 2559
Bosal
Qty:
$31.27
Bosal Exhaust Pipe  Front
  • 88-91 ISUZU TROOPER
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Position Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Isuzu Trooper Manual Front V 6 Cyl 2.8L - 2827
Walker
2000 Isuzu Hombre Exhaust Pipe 4 Cyl 2.2L Walker - Walker Front Pipe

P311-41BA06A    53294  New

Qty:
$84.71
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: A
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: 3 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Max Year Covered: 2003
    • Min Year Covered: 1998
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet S10
    • Most Popular Year: 2000
    • Outlet Connection Type: 3 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Overall Length: 20.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 450627
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Wheel FeedBase Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Isuzu Hombre 122.9 L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2190

Latest Isuzu Repair and Exhaust Pipe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1988 Isuzu Impulse Turbo White Smoke Exhaust

Showing 11 out of 11 Posts
Question From branman1971 on 1988 Isuzu Impulse Turbo White Smoke Exhaust

1988 Izuzu Impulse
2.0 4ZCI Turbo Intercooler
104,000 miles

Runs and drives great, smooth running and smooth idleing. It blows white smoke from exhaust pipe once it warms up. The smoke has a coolant smell, not an oil burning smell. The warmer the motor gets the more smoke coming out, but does not overheat. Oil looks good, not milky. Neighbor told me that turbo might be bad but I don't know.

Response From branman1971

Ok new development. Now there is no smoke coming from tailpipe. I let it run and get hot and the smoke quit. Maybe there was moisture in the system somewhere and it just had to burn out??? I will start it again tomorrow and see if it starts to smoke again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The odor and increase noted in your first post still suggests this is a possible problem lurking. Pay a lot of attention to this. Gaskets can do just what you have seen and quit for a while,

T

Response From branman1971

Also must add that the car does not overheat and the oil appears normal, no water in the oil. So the head gasket could allow coolant to seep and then stop seepage once it warms up?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The so called classic "blown gasket" can leak any which way it seals not just coolant in oil or coolant burning in combustion chamber. It doesn't have to overheat and certainly can tighten up when hot or cold at first. It can be a problem with metal parts and not actually the gasketing at all too.

Let's just say you have a warning to pay attention to and hopefully it's nothing and time will tell. These things don't "heal" and sealers tricks usually don't work or work for long and best avoided if you were thinking of that.

Just watch carefully for anything. Being early if there is a problem will help a lot,

T

Response From branman1971

I found a compression leak tester, and will try that this afternoon. That should confirm or eliminate the possibility of a bad head gasket or cracked head. Right?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Diagnosing a head gasket is inconclusive till you are actually there. What you need/want is to be sure that you have to go there to find the real flaw - gasket or perhaps the head/manifild or block has the flaw.

This one seems like it's just started or may have even been a false alarm so far but you have the warning to keep an sharp eye on it. You may test when it's not having an issue and test will be inconclusive. When parts are off you can usually see where the trouble was and by then you are going to replace gasket anyway but still should send out head for machine shop inspection or risk a quick re-do of the job.

If you do find compression equally low in adjacent cylinders that does suggest problems between the two. The check list goes on. Coolant in oil, oil in coolant, exhaust gasses in cooling system, -- plain leaks to the outside possible. Spark plugs tell a tale too as to whether they are or have been exposed to burning coolant, oil and other problems. Always nice when they all look about the same.

The up front testing can prevent wasting all the work to find some other problem later that fooled you. Speaking for myself - I hate to make the call on head gaskets as they are lots of work and $$ and being wrong would really stink.

THIS COULD ADVANCE TO REAL BAD IN NO TIME so be ready for that. Anything that won't stay broken for testing is a mechanic's nightmare,

T

Response From branman1971

Understood, Thanks...Pulled spark plugs last night, all looked exactly the same, old and brown. Took some serious elbow grease to get them out too, never seen spark plugs so tight in the head. Put in new plugs, with never sieze, and will pull them back out tonight to see if they all look the same, as well as check for exhaust gasses in coolant system.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


That's just one on "fair" chart for plug reading. What's missing there is a super clean, could be very white compared to others indicates coolant burning. That cylinder if you can see in the hole would be cleaner too!

Note: The silver colored "anti-seize" for plugs works but just use the smallest dab on just the threads and ones with self sealing, non gasketed ones just a slight smear on that surface. I prefer silicone grease as is doesn't conduct electricity and if you make a mess in the boots, and up the insulator it alone can cause problems. Put those on the list to just replace anyway but they are good info as to what's going on in there.

Exhaust in coolant: There are testers OR just feel upper radiator hose when started from cold. It should take a while to build up pressure. If it builds up right away it suggests gasses are entering system AND if you remove (with all the cautions strickly adhered to) the pressure by loosening the cap or removing it for a look while warmish it may build up pressure again too soon - that's a strong clue of combustion gases getting in. In those cases the coolant is usually found too full at recovery tanks and the radiator low?? Overheats and poor or no heater operation would be common.

Right now this is info gathering for a diagnosis if you think you have time - always nice for something like this. Just don't let it overheat or contaminate the oil at the first blush of that finish up and FISH OR CUT BAIT!

There's a chance this was just a fluke. Weather extremes with cold then vehicle exposed to warm humid air quickly can make excessive white smoke (water/coolant) appearing exhaust for an extended time and would go away not to return. I've seen cars that water got in tailpipes make a scene for quite a while - kids playing, driving thru deep water and odd stuff like that.

The best part is you are watching closely as you always should but with the warning nice to catch it before an overheat is a surprise meltdown or oil floods full of coolant or something causing more damage than just gaskets.

I'm away for several hours now but check in constantly. Ask away. Others may be watching too and have input on this also. Good luck,

T

Response From branman1971

I let the car warm up to operating temperature today and when I turned it off I heard a faint hissing/gurgling sound on the driver side of the motor under the exhaust manifold. I couldn't see under the manifold but the side of the engine looked wet and coolant was dripping under the car. Considering pulling the head to see if it's the head gasket, even though the oil looks fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Could leak that way as said. Take the chance while it's intact to really see it - mirrors or whatever. Clean it off when cold, pressure check even may show it exactly so you are sure of just what and where,

T