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Walker
2000 Buick Park Avenue Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.8L Walker - Walker Front Pipe

P311-122B8B3    52270  New

Qty:
$129.27
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Max Year Covered: 2005
    • Min Year Covered: 1999
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Buick Lesabre
    • Most Popular Year: 2000
    • Outlet Connection Type: 4 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Overall Length: 15.125
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 827585
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Buick Park Avenue Ultra Supercharged V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Walker
Qty:
$36.59
Walker Exhaust Pipe  Left
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1996
    • Min Year Covered: 1994
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Impala
    • Most Popular Year: 1994
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 34.875
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 82825
Brand: Walker
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body Position Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Buick Roadmaster Limited Sedan Left V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Walker
Qty:
$36.58
Walker Exhaust Pipe  Right
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1996
    • Min Year Covered: 1994
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Impala
    • Most Popular Year: 1996
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 35.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 110555
Brand: Walker
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body Position Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Buick Roadmaster Limited Sedan Right V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Walker
2006 Buick Terraza Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.5L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-401ABCC    52496  New

Qty:
$29.02
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • w/Sport Suspension; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2005
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Uplander
    • Most Popular Year: 2005
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 13.625
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 212507
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Buick Terraza FWD V 6 Cyl 3.5L 213 -
Walker
Qty:
$20.71
Walker Exhaust Pipe  Front Forward
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 3.500
    • Class: D
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Loose Flange W/spherical Flare
    • Mandrel Bent: N
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1980
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1987
    • Overall Length: 30.500
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 115099
Brand: Walker
Position: Front Forward
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Buick LeSabre Estate Wagon Front Forward V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Walker
1992 Buick Roadmaster Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 5.7L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-2DA64C6    44916  New

Qty:
$16.89
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.500
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.500
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1993
    • Min Year Covered: 1985
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1992
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 37.750
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 128701
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Buick Roadmaster Base V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Walker
Qty:
$20.35
Walker Exhaust Pipe  Front Forward
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Loose Flange W/spherical Flare
    • Max Year Covered: 1983
    • Min Year Covered: 1973
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Pontiac Firebird
    • Most Popular Year: 1979
    • Overall Length: 18.000
    • Product Description: Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 62885
Brand: Walker
Position: Front Forward
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Position Block Engine CID CC
1979 - Buick LeSabre R Front Forward V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Walker
1980 Buick Riviera Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.8L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-53B974B    42561  New

Qty:
$17.34
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1985
    • Min Year Covered: 1979
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Cadillac Eldorado
    • Most Popular Year: 1985
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 20.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 13425
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Buick Riviera V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Walker
1984 Buick Electra Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 5.0L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-2BF1317    44822  New

Qty:
$15.25
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.625
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Spherical Flare
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.625
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Inside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1980
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Cadillac Brougham
    • Most Popular Year: 1984
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 46.250
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.250
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 32049
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Buick Electra Limited V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Walker
1993 Buick Roadmaster Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 5.7L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-13C7EC7    43052  New

Qty:
$16.72
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.500
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.500
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1993
    • Min Year Covered: 1985
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1992
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 24.500
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 17185
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Walker
1986 Buick Regal Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 5.0L Walker - Walker Front Pipe

P311-4BF533D    42283  New

Qty:
$20.71
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 3.500
    • Class: D
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Loose Flange W/spherical Flare
    • Mandrel Bent: N
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1980
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1987
    • Overall Length: 30.500
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 115099
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Buick Regal Y V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Walker
1989 Buick Regal Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 2.8L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-377FFB4    42851  New

Qty:
$33.80
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 4.000
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Inside Diameter
    • Mandrel Bent: N
    • Max Year Covered: 1993
    • Min Year Covered: 1988
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Oldsmobile Cutlass
    • Most Popular Year: 1993
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 30.500
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 122069
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Buick Regal V 6 Cyl 2.8L 173 -
Walker
1975 Buick Skylark Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 4.3L Walker - Walker Front Pipe

P311-1F029B3    42243  New

Qty:
$20.35
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Loose Flange W/spherical Flare
    • Max Year Covered: 1983
    • Min Year Covered: 1973
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Pontiac Firebird
    • Most Popular Year: 1979
    • Overall Length: 18.000
    • Product Description: Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 62885
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1975 - Buick Skylark V 8 Cyl 4.3L 260 -
Walker
1981 Buick Riviera Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 5.7L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-53B974B    42561  New

Qty:
$17.34
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • w/o California Emissions
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1985
    • Min Year Covered: 1979
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Cadillac Eldorado
    • Most Popular Year: 1985
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 20.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 13425
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1981 - Buick Riviera V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Walker
Qty:
$18.15
Walker Exhaust Pipe  Front Rearward
  • Extension
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Flare
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1989
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 8.000
    • Product Description: Front Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 48130
Brand: Walker
Position: Front Rearward
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Buick LeSabre Estate Wagon Front Rearward V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Walker
Qty:
$18.15
Walker Exhaust Pipe  Front Rearward
  • Walker Front Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Flare
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1989
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 8.000
    • Product Description: Front Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 48130
Brand: Walker
Position: Front Rearward
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Buick LeSabre Estate Wagon Front Rearward V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Walker
1980 Buick Riviera Exhaust Pipe 8 Cyl 5.7L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-53B974B    42561  New

Qty:
$17.34
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1985
    • Min Year Covered: 1979
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Cadillac Eldorado
    • Most Popular Year: 1985
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 20.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 13425
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Buick Riviera GAS V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Walker
1993 Buick Regal Exhaust Pipe 6 Cyl 3.1L Walker - Walker Extension Pipe

P311-377FFB4    42851  New

Qty:
$33.80
Walker Exhaust Pipe
  • w/o California Emissions; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Extension Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 4.000
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Inside Diameter
    • Mandrel Bent: N
    • Max Year Covered: 1993
    • Min Year Covered: 1988
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Oldsmobile Cutlass
    • Most Popular Year: 1993
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 30.500
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 122069
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Buick Regal V 6 Cyl 3.1L 189 -

Latest Buick Repair and Exhaust Pipe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

transmission rattle

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From saint056 on transmission rattle

I have a 2004 Buick Rainier that has a rattle from the torque converter area and the vehicle loses foward momentum after a few minutes. If I turn off the engine and let it sit for a minute then start it up and it will drive fine for a few minutes then rattle and lose power. Is this a torque converter issue or something much worse?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

saint; Probably should try to get this up on a lift to determine where the rattle is coming from. Could be a catalytic converter that has broken up and plugging off the exhaust. Torque converters very seldom make noise. Flex-plates can crack and make noise and vibration, but won't affect 'power'.

Response From saint056

Already done that. the rattle is comming from the torque converter area. When I called the dealer about pricing one, he said they never have problems with the converters. Not to mention the car would not loose power from the tranny is something was loose on ther car.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

saint; When you say "loose forward momentum", please be more specific. Does the engine speed up, but the vehicle doesn't? Can you 'floor' it and not accelerate? Any vibration noticed with the engine idling?

Response From saint056

Sorry I wasn't describing it well enough. It acts like a car with a manual transmission does when the clutch goes out. It revs to high RPMs when the throttle is depressed, but goes nowhere. I looked up the M30 transmission and it says that it has a torque clutch converter. I have never heard the term before. Anyway, the sound is definately comming from the very front where the torque converter is and is sounds like there is something lose in there. But it only happens after the car has been running for a few minutes. Any suggestions? And by the way, I think getting it out is going to be crazy hard, as there is almost no room to get to the top bolts of the tranny. And there is no vibration. Thanks for any help.

Thomas

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Thomas; This doesn't sound good. Sounds like you have nailed it right on the head. Really rare for this to happen, as far as I know. Maybe, one of the guys in forum more familiar with automatics can help? Good luck to you.

Response From Hammer Time

We have a new tech that's pretty good with transmissions. He may see it quicker if you move it to the trans category Loren.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Duh! Why didn't I think of that! Done.

Response From saint056

OK. This is what I found out. The tranny has gunk and build-up sediment in the pan. About 1/8 inch silver shaving build-up on the magnet. So I'm now inclined to thing the converter was starving for fluid due to a clogged filter or something in the tranny itself. Could this be causing the rattle? Now, with this happening, should I just clean it all out and replace with new fluid, or just get it rebuilt. I think it is too complicated for me to do myself. I only know how to rebuild engines, and the basics at that. Not too much to an engine, but a tranny.... whoa! And if a rebuild is in order, what is a fair cost for a rebuild if I brought it into a shop? What do you guys say? Thanks for all the help thus far!

Response From superbob Top Rated Answer

I worked at buick gmc last 8 years and have repaired many of these transmissions! 4.2 engine then the trans is easy to take out. 5.3 v-8 AWD model and you will hate the front exhaust pipe. The job goes from easy to crazy with the v-8 motor. The filter gets clogged and then won't move. Probably gear failure, but bottom line is the tans must come out. Factory reman is best if you can afford it. Anyone can install it and Obama will warranty it at any gm dealer that is honest or still in business. Good luck
Bob

Response From saint056

Thanks Bob. I actually found one in a junk yard for 350.00 with about 32,000 miles on it and it took 2 days do do it on my back. If I would have just removed the transfer case FIRST, I could have easily done it in a day, but removing all the cross members, exhaust, and getting to the top 2 bolts (with the transfer case on - I'm such a dumb-ass!) on the tranny, it was a pain! But your correct, the filter was clogged, starving the torque converter, thus creating the issue. But, there was about 3/16 build-up of silver powder shavings on the magnet in the pan and nasty fluid to boot. The new tranny was the way to go here for such a cheap cost! Thanks for the input. Now if you could just tell me how to fix the speedometer... Thats an expensive one to buy!

I also have a rear end question in the car engines and noises section regarding my rear end differential whining I am currently looking at fixing if you have any input.

Thanks again - Thomas

Response From superbob

good deal! Speedometer work before you did the trans? Rear diff making a constant noise or just on and off the gas? If constant you may just need a bearing. Pull the rear cover and you will see the metal. Not to hard to replace a bearing or two
Bob

Response From saint056

Speedometer did not work before. The rear end is well explained in the Car and engine noises section. It whines up as it accelerates and down as it decelerates.

Response From saint056

thanks though

Black gunk on exaust

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Mint420 on Black gunk on exaust

Hey I recently bought a buick regal 2001 99k miles from new deal used cars here in glendale az. I have been keeping close eye on it and checking everything and everything is good except one problem with my exaust. When I wipe the inside of the exaust with my finger it was black when it came out. I did research and I found out that this could be the cause of it not burning its fuel properly.

Before I decided to jump to conclusions I decided to clean out the tailpipe and take it for a 2 mile spin and it got black on the inside again when I checked it after I drove it. Does anyone know what would cause this? I have a 15 day warranty that is still in effect and I can get them to fix it.

Response From Hammer Time

Stop sticking your finger in the tailpipe and just drive the car. The exhaust is supposed to be dirty inside.
If it's not smoking, don't worry about it.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Go through the parking lot and wipe other cars' exhaust pipes. I'm sure you'll be surprised.

Response From kev2

I agree with colleagues....
Want to add something to relieve the worry... The exhaust is monitored by the computer, SO as you just got this vehicle have the system scanned for codes, its FREE yes even if light is off. Did I say FREE - most auto part stores.

Find somewhere better to stick your fingers something more fun....

Response From Mint420

Thanks guys, I guess I am just worried and doubtful. I mean its a great car and everything has been working amazing since I got it, I guess I am just a bit gunshy.

Find somewhere better to stick your fingers something more fun....

My butt or yours?

Response From Hammer Time

I'll let Kev field that one...............

2001 Buick Cat/o2 sensor contamination P0420

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From terasys on 2001 Buick Cat/o2 sensor contamination P0420

Well. My car:

2001 Buick LeSabre Custom 3.8 160k miles

has the infamous p0420 code. I have noticed decreased fuel efficiency (on average the last week its around 12 mpg.... yeah..)

I know the code points to the Cat not working efficiently or as it should, but I wanted to test the upstream o2 sensor first because that could explain the bad gas mileage.

It passed inspection last year only because the mechanic cleared the code and then let it slide. I decided to test the upstream o2 sensor first before shelling out 100's.

It seemed to be working fine: went up to 0.9 volts under high temps and went back down to under 0.1 volts very quickly in around 1-2 seconds. Seems pretty normal. BUT, the head of the o2 sensor was chalky white. Which is a tell tale sign of silicone contamination. I suppose this could lead to my cat being inefficient and thusly throwing the code.

The problem is: I read online that coolant has silicone in it. Last year I got a coolant flush and got it filled up. Since then, my coolant reservoir has gone from about 1/3-1/2 full to pretty much empty right now. Does it usually just go away like that? Could it be leaking into the engine somehow? Could this be put on the mechanic's (Sears..psh) fault? Did they mess it up somehow and make a leak?

I also have a pretty good (bad) power steering leak. I need to put a new bottle in about every 2 weeks or so. I ALSO have a slight oil leak too. The guy who owned the car before me said it just burns up as it drips off. I need to add a quart of oil every 3-4 months MAYBE. I haven't since probably last summer and it needed 2 quarts when I recently did add some.

The bottom of my car has a pretty decent layer of black tar/oil coating everything. including almost all of the hoses near the front axle. My car will leak (which I believe is power steering fluid) 100% of the time. No matter if I let it sit for an hour or 2 seconds. it is constantly dripping.

Any ideas?

Should I test the downstream o2 sensor? (pain in the ass)

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

Some of what you are saying has a little truth and most of it is out in left field.

Coolant doesn't contain silicone, some of it contains silicates but not Dexcool which is what you should have in there.

You have a bad Cat. The PO420 rarely indicates anything but a bad Cat because of the criteria it takes to set that code. The white on the 0/2 sensor doesn't mean anything bad and that's pretty normal. You're way off on how the 0/2 is supposed to operate also. I don't know where your coolant is going but you should be able to find out with some careful pressure testing. That particular engine has a known problem with intake manifold deterioration causing coolant to leak into a vacuum chamber under it. There is a TSB on that.

Response From terasys

Link deleted.................. is where I found the information about the o2 sensors colors.

I wanted to save so money so what I was going to do was buy a cat online (they run from (what i saw) around 90-300) and I know a mechanic who will install one for about 75 bucks.

will that clear the code? Should I get him to install new o2 sensors as well? Or should I just buy a new upstream? Because honestly I went through 4 gallons (16 dollars) of gas going about 45 miles.

What is a TSB? Can you link this?

Response From Hammer Time

We don't allow links on the site but I will post an image of the TSB. They don't list your year but it's still possible. As I said, you need to pressure test.

I wouldn't even attempt to buy a converter online. Just go to a custom exhaust shop and they will install one for likely less money that you can even buy one. My shop gets $180 installed for a universal cat.

As far as the 0/2s, don't be too concerned with the color as much as how they operate. Sensor will deteriorate over time so changing them is never a bad idea. The upstream is the only one that has anything to do with fuel mixture. The downstream is a Cat monitor only.



Response From terasys

Okay awesome.

I figured it would be like 400-600 for something like that.

I will call a couple places and see what the prices look like.

Thanks for that pic but where do I find more information? Just googling?

And: I read many reviews online that a new cat sometimes does not clear the code. Any reason why it wouldn't in my case? (Your best guess obviously).
Thanks again!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I have seen that code dozens of times and only once did a new Cat not resolve it and in that case, the exhaust pipe had a crack in it just ahead of the cat and the oxygen was confusing the sensors.

Response From terasys

How long will it take to have the code come back on after clearing it? Its been over 25 miles since I cleared it and it has not come back yet..

Response From Hammer Time

It takes a while because the computer has to see very specific criteria and it may have to see it more than once.

Here's some reading for you on that code



CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
In order to control emissions of Hydrocarbons (HC) , Carbon Monoxide (CO) , and Oxides Of Nitrogen (NOx) , a three-way catalytic converter is used. The catalyst within the converter promotes a chemical reaction which oxidizes the HC and CO present in the exhaust gas, converting them into harmless water vapor and carbon dioxide. The catalyst also reduces NOx, converting it to nitrogen. The converter also has the ability to store excess oxygen and release the stored oxygen to promote these reactions. This Oxygen Storage Capacity (OSC) is a measurement of the catalyst's ability to control emissions. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors this process using a Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) located in the exhaust stream past the 3-way converter. When the catalyst is functioning properly, the HO2S 2 is slow to respond to a large change in the HO2S 1 signal. When the HO2S 2 responds quickly to a large change in the HO2S 1 signal, the OSC and efficiency of the catalyst is considered to be bad and the MIL will be illuminated if subsequent tests also indicate a failure.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC

  • Meet he conditions for engine warm up. Use the scan tool catalyst data list in order to verify the following.
  • DTCs P0101, P0102, P0103, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0117, P0118, P0121, P0122, P0123, P0130, P0131, P0132, P0133, P0134, P0135, P0137, P0138, P0140, P0141, P0171, P0172, P0201-206, P0300, P0336, P0341, P0401, P0403, P0404, P0405, P0410, P0412, P0418, P0440, P0442, P0443, P0446, P0449, P0502, P0503, P0506, P0507, P1133, P1134, P1336, P1351, P1352, P1361, P1374, or P1441 are not set.
  • The engine has been running more than 10 minutes.
  • The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) is above 70°C(158°F) and below 124°C (255°F).
  • The Barometric Pressure (BARO) is above 75 kPa.
  • The vehicle is in Closed Loop.
  • The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) is above - 20°C (-4°F) and less than 100°C (212°F).
  • The battery voltage above 10.7 volts
  • Warm up the catalyst.
  • Fully open the hood.
  • Place the transmission in park (automatic) or neutral (manual).
  • Set the parking brake.
  • Press and hold the service brake.
  • Each time the engine is started, the diagnostic can run up to 18 times. After the 10-minute run time and before the diagnostic runs the first time, the engine must run an additional 5 minutes between 1500-2500 RPM.

  • For any additional tests on the same key cycle, the engine speed must be between 1500-2500 RPM for 1 minute.
  • In order to activate the diagnostic return the vehicle to idle and put the vehicle in drive, or depress the clutch for a manual transmission.
  • Test the catalyst.
  • Place the transmission in drive (automatic) or neutral (for manuals with clutch depress).
  • VIN K California Emissions- Within 60 seconds the air fuel ratio will go rich below 14.1 for up to 6 seconds , then it may go lean above 15.3 for up to 8 seconds.
  • VIN K FED Emissions-Within 60 seconds the air fuel ratio will go lean above 15.3 for up to 6 seconds , then may go rich below 14.1 for up to 7 seconds.
  • VIN 1-With in 60 seconds the air fuel ratio will go rich below 14.1 for up to 7 seconds , then it may go lean above 15.3 for up to 9 seconds.
  • Check if DTC P0420 has passed or failed this key cycle using the scan tool.

  • CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
    The PCM determines that the catalyst's oxygen storage capacity is below an acceptable threshold.

    ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS
  • The control module illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) when the diagnostic runs and fails.
  • The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores this information in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records.

  • CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC
  • The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
  • A current DTC "Last Test Failed" clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
  • A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
  • Use a scan tool in order to clear the MIL and the DTC.

  • DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
    Check for the following conditions:
  • The PCM will not enable the catalyst test until following conditions are met:
  • The engine speed is plus or minus 100 RPM from the desired idle.
  • The Throttle Position (TP) is 0.0 percent.
  • The short term integrator is between -20 percent and +20 percent.
  • The catalyst test will abort if the vehicle falls outside the conditions listed below while the test is running:
  • The engine speed is plus or minus 125 RPM from desired idle.
  • The Throttle Position (TP) is 0.0 percent.
  • Short term integrator is between -20 percent and +20 percent.
  • The catalyst test may abort due to a change in engine load, for example, from the A/C or from the coolant fan. If this condition occurs, use the scan tool in order to force the cooling fans ON, and return to Step 2 in the table.

  • IMPORTANT: When using the scan tool to force the cooling fans on use the next list and previous list soft keys to enter the catalyst data list. If the catalyst data list is not entered this way the cooling fan control will be canceled.

  • More than 6 tests may have to be attempted in order to get 6 completed tests. An aborted test counts as an attempted test. The number of attempt tests is limited to 18 per key cycle.

  • After returning to an idle the HO2S 1 signal may stay rich or lean for several seconds causing the test to be delayed.
  • A faulty connection at PCM-Inspect the harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection. Use a corresponding mating terminal to test for correct terminal tension.
  • A damaged harness-Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, observe the display on the scan tool while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the sensor. A change in the display will indicate the location of the fault.

  • Response From terasys

    Oh.. I see.

    It came on tonight actually. After driving a total of 30 miles. but I didn't know it had to be specific criteria like that.

    Thanks anyway. I got an appointment on 5/30 as supposedly the best auto place in the area. His appointments can take up to 2 weeks because so many people go to his place. Supposedly he also does not charge much.

    Hopefully it works out okay

    Response From Hammer Time

    You're not looking for the best repair shop in town. You're looking for an exhaust specialty shop. General repair shops are not equipped for custom exhaust and will be more expensive.

    Response From terasys

    The closest thing to an exhaust shop near me is Monro.

    Are they okay?

    I believe I have heard mixed things about them.

    Edit: On their website they are offering a 30% off muffler/catalytic converter sale.

    Will that be pretty cheap? I will call tomorrow.

    Thanks again

    Response From Hammer Time

    It doesn't matter who they are as long as they have a pipe bender on-site. That would mean that they are in the business of making custom exhaust and have the toola and ability to do what's needed at a reasonable price. If they do not make custom exhaust on a regular basis, they cannot be competitive with the price. Midas may be the exception to that. They are always kinda expensive.

    Response From terasys

    Well.. I called one Monro and they said they cannot give me an estimate so I made an appointment on Tuesday morning for them to check it out.

    So I called another Monro and he calculated the cost to be 465 for a universal and 700 for an OEM.

    yeah.... I will keep looking. That is ridiculous

    Edit: Should I be looking for custom exhaust shops?

    Response From Hammer Time

    Edit: Should I be looking for custom exhaust shops?

    Didn't I say that 3 times?

    Response From terasys

    You said "exhaust specialty" shops.

    I have no idea if that is the same as custom? How does custom which includes like stainless steel compare to just having exhaust as a specialty? I guess it is clearer to trained eyes..

    Response From Hammer Time

    OH, come on............


    Exhaust specialty...................... to mean specialize in exhaust repair.



    Maybe you recall reading this....

    Just go to a custom exhaust shop and they will install one for likely less money that you can even buy one. My shop gets $180 installed for a universal cat.

    Response From terasys

    Hahaha Okay okay okay. I got it. I got a couple places lined up.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    I have no specific problem with any chain. If they are having a sale go for it. Best will always be OE stuff for exhaust items IMO but if it works and a bargain can't argue,

    T
    (sorry for spammer being removed now)

    Response From terasys

    Well the thing is i Have multiple issues. I want all the leaks fixed as well. I have an appointment on the 30th to get it checked out. If getting a new cat installed is around 200-250 ill get it done. If i can find a better place in the area, ill do it there.

    I havent seemed to find a custom exhaust place.

    1982 Ford Granada 3.3L A few million miles?

    Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
    Question From irishmantx on 1982 Ford Granada 3.3L A few million miles?

    Dear Group,

    1982 Ford Granada 3.3L engine. Oily soot found coming out of the tail pipe, and
    uses oil more often than used to. (long skid mark / sooty oil stain) from the
    exhaust pipe. Original engine since 1982, possibly warning sign engine might
    go? It's used heavily and takes me to work back and forth serving as the only
    family 'back up' car. (odometer has rolled a few times since original 25,000 miles
    back in 1984.)

    Is this a sign of bad times for this engine? This particular engine was assembled
    in Canada, smooth good solid running engine. If possible, I rather go with a good
    long block.

    Things done to this car.

    Replaced battery, MT-56 Interstate. Replaced Alternator, Water pump (at same time)
    radiator hoses, belts, rear brakes (L/R), front disk brake line hose (L/R), coil springs
    (x4 w/air conditioner), rear shocks, front struts, thermostat replaced, carb replaced,
    front weather strip (L/R) replaced, ignition module, voltage regulator, negative battery
    cable electrically taped black since it was originally 'red' possibly mistake of positive cable.
    Wheel bearings serviced, rack and pinion steering unit replaced, and head lamps replaced.

    Oily sooty exhaust noticeable after idle and running the engine, leaving approx 1 to 2 foot
    long 'skid mark' or 'skid stain' on ground / floor of garage. Uses oil more frequently as it
    takes a quart every week or after heavy use. Possible warning sign of engine failure?

    Shalom,

    irishmantx
    76531




    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    ? Some confusion with just what this engine is. Is this the 200 CID straight six with one bbl carb? I just looked up a valve cover gasket with mixed info. 3.3 should = 200 CID inch and gasket like this.................

    /


    With the miles it's hard to say as so many things are possible. Any blue smoke? If any smoke out tailpipe what color? Does this oily soot run out tailpipe leaving a streaked mix of part burned oil and gas - did I understand that properly?

    Is is running well now despite the mess it makes? What's taxing my mind is IF it runs on all six cyl. and doesn't smoke than a fair amount of raw fuel or oil is getting in the exhaust. Using some oil at VERY high miles isn't totally amazing nor means there isn't more left to go.

    Lots to think about with this. Some engines will put out a trail a water from condensation in the cold exhaust but mostly when colder, humid air and would be dirty but would quit it when warmed up.

    Could be sludge if any now not be allowing oil return to pan and valve guides are sucking down oil way too fast but if running well that would smoke and make a scene. You can get a good idea sometimes about sludge just looking in oil fill cap or take valve cover off for a real good look.

    IMO if engine has to go the head need be in same condition or reworked. I didn't find reman whole engine available but they should be but not common parts houses. Used at the age would be rare to find a known good whole engine but if diagnosis shows this one is that worn I'd ask a reputable salvage yard for exact fit replacement.

    It probably is worth paying for a professional diagnosis, compression and other observations to declare engine's needs.

    Sorry for the long response - this has so many possibilities by age and miles it's an open book without some serious diagnostics,

    Tom

    Response From irishmantx

    Dear Tom,

    That looks about right!! Some blue smoke does puff out... To be honest, it runs 'OK' BUT....
    Since the engine is original, and it takes more oil than normal, leaving a 1 to 2 foot stain of
    streaking oil / exhaust soot, I surmise this engine is tired.

    I rather get total complete long block with a warranty. I could get her over to a shop for
    a full compression and engine diagnostic. At least see where I stand on the shape of this
    engine. Or g-d forbid, engine goes, then get her towed. I told my dad (who owns the car)
    about this.

    One bit of good news, I got the new computer box w/chip back into my 1988 GMC S15
    and it 'appears' to run smoothly. Got to test a few more times at certain times the truck
    acts up and breaks down. :P So far so good. I hope, fingers crossed.. toes crossed, knocking
    on all kinds of wood. lol

    Well, I thought it could be something serious about the oily sooty exhaust. I never see this
    car act that way. It runs a bit louder, takes more oil than normal, and now I remember I see
    piddle leaks toward the front and back of the engine. Like 3 to 6 piddles of oil toward the front,
    and 2 to 4 piddles of oil toward the back of the engine. Not sure if it's valve cover or gasket
    warped and going bad. When I start the engine, it makes a rattle rattle noise... then goes away.
    Belts squeal and hard to keep speed when I get past Warp 7 (70 mph) it shakes, may need front
    end alignment, and new tires. :) I keep her between Warp 1 (10 mph) to Warp 6.5 (65 mph).

    At any rate, this car is my family heirloom and I help spend money on the C-4 Transmission. I
    don't mind saving up for the engine. I already spent money on the rest of the previous posted
    items.

    It's a 3.3 liter, 200ci engine, Straight 6 engine. Will fuel injection be better than carb?

    Shalom,

    irishmantx
    76531




    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    OK: This engine has probably had it and what you are experiencing is plain wear from VERY high miles with blowby past pistons and their rings and that will put pressure into crankcase instead of the minute vacuum it should be via the PCV valve. Bet it you just pull the dipstick while idling it blow out when it really should be slightly sucking in air there. Valve guids in head and their seals sucking in oil beyond what it can burn so some actually makes it out the exhaust!

    BTW - none of this is good for the cat. converter which is probably dead and kinda surprised it isn't all clogged up.

    The shaking is probably tire, wheel, wheel bearing adjustment. Alignment alone really shouldn't be the cause of imbalance or causing shaking if off but would make the cause worse if badly out of spec. With the miles you have to check everything - front end parts even if already done could need them again at a "few million" miles

    Carb vs fuel injection. Late carbs were hard to meet emmsions and got more complicated and fussier than much older than this year of vehicle. You really can't switch it to injected as that would be an engineering project and legalities of the car could or would be an issue. Totally impractical and too involved to even think about that.

    If you are going to invest in the reman engine start checking for what's available. Ford themselves might still have a reman available. It would be a total stroke of magic to find a good low mile original that matched exactly at the age. Don't expect a reman engine to compete with original new for pounding miles on them. They can only be truly new once,

    T

    Response From irishmantx

    Dear Tom,


    Thanks for the info! I had gone out to my 'donor' Granada for
    some hard to find parts. My "donor" Granada is a 4.2L which is
    a 255ci v8. (It's being used as a donor car since its too costly to
    fix immediately.)

    Anyways, I did find an air filter intake hose from the wall to the
    filter. The old one on my mom's 1982 Granada fell and crumbled
    apart. It fit good, and I agree with you about the 3.3L 200 engine.

    OK: This engine has probably had it and what you are experiencing is plain wear from VERY high miles with blowby past pistons and their rings and that will put pressure into crankcase instead of the minute vacuum it should be via the PCV valve. Bet it you just pull the dipstick while idling it blow out when it really should be slightly sucking in air there. Valve guids in head and their seals sucking in oil beyond what it can burn so some actually makes it out the exhaust!

    I agree with you, mom, dad and I put WAY to many miles on this engine. The
    engine was built in Canada and I give credit that maple syrup makes every
    thing better. :) (: HA HA! ;) ;) ;) It spits oily soot at least 2ft from tail pipe,
    and I must admit, this engine is tired. The car is still good, with Tender Loving
    Care, I hope it remains for the next generation. Thanx Tom for your advice.
    Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah, Happy Holidays. Hope you and yours have
    a wonderful holiday season, and if you drink too much egg nog, have a backup
    driver ready to take you home, or sleep it off in the back seat. ;)

    Money is being saved up over time, and save up for a new
    engine. I want an engine that has a warranty and there are
    rebuilds, but I want a 3.3L 200ci, Straight 6 long block. Is it a
    good idea to get new water pump, alternator, carb, fuel pump,
    and other parts, or salvage them off of the old engine, and how
    much for a catalytic converter?

    If all else fails, what engine places do you recommend for a
    long block replacement? I don't want the hassle and issues with
    rebuild the heads and the block itself. I realize its too much to
    put into fuel injection, however, if I am super wealthy, or I meet
    a nice sweet, wealthy, rich, financially deep pocketed Jewish
    sugar cougar, I might want to hire the guy's at Overhaulin and
    do some 'upgrades' and the legal team to make it happen. HA!
    Other than that, it's by the book and back to factory standard.

    Shalom

    irishmantx
    76531


    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    The FORD cast iron straight six engines share quite a bit I recall. My own first was 144 CID in a 63 Falcon, a 200 CID in a 68 Falcon and by chance other Fords were all V8s. Some of these are identical with changes in stroke to change displacement. Many used the 250 CID then trucks went big on the 300 CID called a 4.9L.


    What to replace with a reman engine:

    If alternator is fine now re-use it. Water pump should be cheaper and probably would put a new not reman pump on. All new cooling system hoses and vacuum lines. Carb? I'd swap first and if needed just get a kit to rebuild it. Should be fairly straight forward if you have good instructions with the kit usually. rebuilt/reman for carbs is mostly a real good cleaning, new needle valve, accelerator pump and gaskets. The idle mix screw my have a hardened cap to prevent messing with the idle mixture. Procedures to remove that with a punch may come with a kit as there is a needle valve behind those - perhaps a "clutch" headed needle valve and you can buy just one socket for those head looks like white spot in this pic......

    data:image/jpg;base64,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

    Idea is not to tamper with them as too many folks fussed with them and messed them up. For a good cleaning you need to take that out though. With those or any count turn in to a gentle bottom so you can duplicate where it was. If all is lost bottom it (gently is the operative word) and back off about 2+1/2 turns to 3 should be about right. For DIY carb things there are a few special tools. Kit is cheap and should come with specs and a thing to measure float level. If real fussy you find spec of float(s) and weigh them as they can sink from soaking up gas or be heavier and the level of fuel in the bowl is critical for proper fuel mixture. By mid throttle or wide open the idle mix isn't being used at all and too many people think it is the whole adjustment - NOT.

    Rebuilt units can be good but I've had tons that needed way too many adjustments that were off. For the vintage you would normally set the idle speed on any and if all is good that's about all. Late carbs were a pill and full of tamper proof crap which can be defeated for cleaning up small holes/ports for fuel flow. I did do a ton of carb work back when.

    Catalytic converter: Generally I would suggest an OE one but with this vintage aftermarket should be fine and tons cheaper. Dunno - if welded into the front pipe you may need more tools to cut old one out with care so replacement can just be clamps like a muffler.

    Can't say for everywhere but I can't think of a state in US legal to just use straight pipe if a vehicle came with a converter. A good one doesn't harm performance for this and most applications.

    Not sure what reman engine will have with it. Ask so you know and if you are doing this at all replace old stuff like plug wires or tune-up things that don't come with it.

    Truth is in decades of car stuff I've never used a reman engine - always fully checked out low mile complete used that was a perfect match - no games. All were 100% good with a history. This is just too old to get that lucky.

    It was my training and my opinion which may not be everyone's but no reman engine will have the propensity to last as long as a good original. For those making Hot Rods and that - do what you want. For a practical driver leave as much original as possible with most things.

    Save up. There's still lots to do with a replacement engine,

    Tom

    Response From irishmantx

    Dear Tom,

    OK, I'm still not sure where to go, I guess I'm asking amiss, I wanted some
    recommendation on which place to find O.E.M. or 'original' style engines? I
    am on a tighter than a lycra leather corset budget, and I wanted a place to
    get a replacement engine. I really don't know the history of 'used' engines,
    and often some want to sell bull and sell me a wore out engine 'worse' than
    mine. :(

    But if you don't know of any places to direct me to procure an engine that
    is CAST IRON, most original, and or avoid places that sell undesirable engines.
    That's OK. I'll ask the mechanic about to perform the 'surgery' to take care of
    it. I believe the carb was replaced last year. It runs good, water pump and
    alternator was replaced together last year. Kept full of 50/50.

    Also what steering columns will fit this Granada? It's a fox foundation style
    and I was 'informed' that most Mustang parts for 1982 would fit some parts
    on the Granada. The rear end, drive shaft, and the dash top?

    Just wanted to make sure I knew where I was going on replacing an engine.
    It's a vital investment, and wanted to make sure I sounded like I know I was
    asking for, instead of being baffled by bull. :P

    Shalom,

    irishmantx
    76531


    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Engines: Holy cow - the exacting machine work to make one new is tough. A redo requires more specs to be checked and corrected that if all on paper you couldn't lift the book.

    New and engine is cast. then line bored for as close to perfect for long shafts like crank and cam in this. New the engines each have their own DNA. You can't just swap crank bearing caps as once machined that's the fit for that one only. Even the machine tools for new only make so many "bores" before they are out of spec new! Redoing all that with a core engine is an art to itself and some come out well and some don't. They make parts that needed to be re bored to fit a new size but still it's a trade unto itself.

    Cylinder walls don't wear evenly. When a cylinder fires the pressure of piston to cylinder wall is on one side so over time it loses it's perfect measurement for the travel of the piston. This is intense to get it all right at once.

    ************

    Parts that interchange: Salvage places have a ton of data for what was the same for what models and years. I don't think any of us have the software for all of that but a good clue on some. Mercury made the Monarch which was the same body and most mechanical parts - just trim and sheet metal style, shape to look a bit different. I just dunno what other Ford products used the same exact body and think this one was on it's own. I actually don't know this car that well. There were Fairmonts, Zephyrs that might share many parts to Granada. TMK and FORD used names randomly for a while around then it could be also the same platform as once a smaller LTD and Marquis - none with V8s TMK and were unit body cars not chassis. Even Lincoln made a Versailles (sp?) that was really a dressed up Granada. Any decent salvage yard should know what can interchange,

    T

    Response From irishmantx Top Rated Answer

    Dear Tom,


    With all of that said, worst case scenario, if and when there is a 'Warp Core Breach'
    and a new warp engine is needed, chances are, it might be towed to a mechanic that
    my folx trust, and would likely tell the mechanic to go find a new total long block that
    will fit the car. My dad owns a 1994 Buick Century, and had to replace the engine since
    a shade tree idiot did not change the oil and burned up the motor. The 'idiot' left town,
    and stuck my folx a $3,500 front wheel drive engine. OR so the price for a front wheel
    drive engine for a 1994 Buick Century. (NOT A NEW THREAD!)

    Push comes to shove, its not 'my' car to make any decisions. It's the "mom and dad
    back up utility car since dad don't want to drive his car as often as he wants" kind of
    car. LOL. Tom thank you for the help, looks like I beg my mom and dad not to scrap
    this cream puff, but get a new motor, after my obligated expected offer to help pay for
    half of it. Full LONG BLOCK 3.3 Liter, 200ci, 6cylinder engine.

    Since I drive it a lot, and did 'front' most of the repairs and parts, I hope to have some
    say in keeping this car. It's a solid machine and scares a lot of the plastic car toy drivers,
    when they see a "REAL" car on the road. :)

    Shalom,
    irishmantx
    76531


    rear noise

    Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
    Question From autojoe on rear noise

    Have noise comming from right rear.Hear rubbing noise when slowing down to a stop about 15 mph to zerowith brake applied.If you apply brake at standing still and push car you hear a creaking noise.Shoes are good shape.I thought bent rim so I switched both back tires and did not help.The brake drum looked good but I bought new drum and noise went away for 2 weeks but came back again.No noise driving while brakes not applied.Shoes look like even wear.Vehicle is a 1994 buick century.any one run into this or have any ideas would be appreciated.Thanks,Joe

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Some possibilities:

    Spin that wheel alone while hoisted - listen and feel for any bearing free play. Good bearing make almost no sound at all by hand.

    As this seems to happen only when brake is applied it's highly likely related. One sneaky possibility is the backing plate is VERY close to the drum and there is some flex when a brake is applied and it might rub - drum to backing plate. Reinspect that brake carefully for all springs and any shined up parts that show signs of rubbing at all,

    T

    Response From autojoe

    Thanks for reply.I checked backing plate and all brake hardware.I took a hammer and tapped backing plate all around whole area.It is only heard when slow almost to a stop and is a off on off on ect rubbing noise.When I put new drum it went away for a few weeks and then returned.The rear bearing hub assembly is tight and no noise when turned and no noise when not braking.I am going to inspect backing plate more thoroughly.I dont know what to think.I have wireless transmitters that I may clip to area to try to isolate noise....it has to be brake related because it only does it when brakes are applied but only at low speed but maybe it does at higher speed but cant hear until almost at a stop.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    Ok - it has to do with brake itself OR because of braking forces?

    This may just be one of those "hide and seek" games of catching it or finding some evidence.

    ? - The axle as an assembly torques some with the force of braking. That assembly may be able to move enough to touch exhaust pipe or something making a noise but there's nothing "rotary" spinning except the wheels, drums and the parts of the wheel bearing/hub that turn.

    ? - Tire rubber to rim can make noise. I've heard some give a squishy sound - rotary in nature as well as hub caps, trim rings if applicable. Changing inflation pressure for a test or rotating whole wheels to new locations may help isolate a single item/flaw.

    ? - Contact of wheel to hub and brake drum to hub is subject to corrosion and might be a place with some minimal ability to make noise even with a properly tightened wheel.

    ? - The bearing itself should utilize a seal on the spindle and the most usual force on it is simply carrying the weight in an up/down of load. When braking the forces push at an angle and a one spot flaw on a race might only "wake" up with pressure at that exact spot. It's more common for bearings noises to be exacerbated by turning but braking also applies to them.

    ?? - More: Don't ask why but more than once a noise you would swear is from one side is actually from the other!

    * I still think of the backing plate and the drum itself with just the slightest touch under the perfect amount of brake force. That type of funky noise is much more common with disc brake dust shields and more on front applications bu could still be the issue. It might show as just one tiny shined up spot on plate or inside drum that could be missed. It's interesting that changing that drum made a two week difference! Thought: With BBQ paint used to paint non friction areas might show a worn off spot later as a testing trick.

    <> At some point swapping parts from left to right may be in order - just the ones that can work properly on either side.

    Happy hunting

    T

    Response From autojoe

    Thanks tom.........I tapped with a hammer the backing plate around edge and noise disappeared.I did before once and did not affect.It is something that something small like this caused a noise problem like this.Thanks again.Joe

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Itty bitty little rubbing can cause a big noise! See how small the common screech sensors are on disc pads and how much ruckus they can make?

    T

    Response From autojoe

    Hi Tom
    guess what.....noise came back.I might take a chance and replace shoes and or rear wheel bearing assembly.First I am going to try to pinpoint exact place of noise with wireless clips.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf




    Hope the pics show:

    OK: Either the backing plate can rub the drum with some flex of braking upon them OR the brake shoes can touch the drum if they could lean out a bit. Either should show some evidence of touching. Note the lube spots where shoes must slide on the backing plate. It's hard to lube those with shoes on but they can get worn in and hang up a shoe or perhaps in the motion lift the show for a momentary noise. It might be time to take off the brakes, clean and painting the backing plate (high temp black , lube where it's supposed to be lubed and install at least the hold-down springs new - whole spring sets are not big bucks anyway.

    More: Clean the shoes with "Brak-Kleen" I think is how they spell that product. It's ok to use that on the lining and look for flaws - hairline cracks or if the lining is loose from the metal of the shoe - that's another maybe on this.

    Caution: Protect rubber parts from brake cleaners. DON'T breathe any brake dust and don't allow any greases on friction surfaces. Water cleans the dust and some parts off well. They must be fully dry or will drag a bit when first in use even if air dried. Don't allow water to get in any area where brake fluid is involved!

    Summary suggestion: Take these shoes off and clean up the whole thing with re lube and careful inspection of the lining and new return/hold down spring kit installed. Use high temp brake lube and just on the exact areas - do the star adjuster too while you're having so much fun

    If you find the spot on backing place or spot on metal of shoe It might be a bent backing plate or perhaps a wheel bearing allowing too much end lash (in and out motion) of which there should be near none!

    T

    Response From autojoe

    stil trying to figure noise.Took completely apart and lubed backing plate and shoes and plate look good.Noise went away for a day and then returned.No play in the bearing.the sound starts when braking around 20 mph and then gets louder.I am thinking of replacing hub/bearing assembly only because when I spin wheel when off ground it seems to have some resistance.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    WOW - This has gone on a while! Let me list out some standard drum brake noise possibilities:

    * Drum to backing plate (seems ruled out??)
    * Shoe stuck in a worn groove in backing plate (new back plate may be required)
    * Broken shoe? loose rivot or bond?
    * Cracks in the lining can cause noise
    * Hardware somehow not in properly. Wrong spring perhaps. Left and rights should be "mirror" images of each other for lower spring - that is "asymetrically opposite" if you will
    * Larger shoe in front instead of back??
    * Parking brake issues?
    * Wheel cylinder NOT allowing springs to return shoes fully? May have to watch that with drum off but don't let a helper push much with drum off - just enough to move - that's all.
    ** A not so common maybe - the axle can move in and out too far. Many held by a "C" clip thing inside differentials for RWDs or problem with bearing hub with FWD types that are sealed units. If two separate bearings they may not be snugged up enough OR inner seal can rub on some rust or something??

    ** Tires to rims or trim parts to wheels can make noise. Temporarily overinflate by about 10psi the noisy tire it may quit. Don't leave it over inflated. If this is a tire to rim noise the tires will have to be removed and goo put on sealing surface to solve that.

    ** Maybe wheel to drum contact is funky even when properly torqued. You should be safe to put a fingerprint of grease on contact area - make sure lugs are torqued to spec still! (Note) Wheel probably only touches drum in 5 spots which may show evidence??

    Just some more guesses to consider........

    T

    Response From autojoe

    Thanks for replies.....no excessive pull in front brakes.No springs on this model just one spring for the self adjuster.Backing plate is smooth.The splash shield is bent a little.I changed drum with new one awhile back and noise stopped for about 2 weeks and then started again.The shoes are bonded and have a lot of material.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Drum brakes have a front and rear return spring not just one for the adjuster! Are we talking about fairly standard drum brakes? If NO return springs what would push back the wheel cylinder?

    T

    Response From autojoe

    it is called a retractor spring but not your typical brake springs.One on each shoe.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Quick question for you.............

    When coming to a stop, do you notice the back end of the car squatting down and the brakes tending to grab a little too much?

    Response From jjohnson



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