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Best Selling Genuine Saturn Exhaust Manifolds

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Dorman
2003 Saturn Vue Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.2L Dorman

P311-0A6147A    674-870  New

101469 , 90537679 , SK674870

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$196.29
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Saturn Vue L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
Dorman
2002 Saturn L200 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-0A6147A    674-870  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$196.29
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • ; wo/California Emissions
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2002 - Saturn L200 Automatic
ACDelco
2007 Saturn Sky Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.4L ACDelco

P311-1ED2116    W0133-1866549  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$361.26
ACDelco Exhaust Manifold
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Saturn Sky L 4 Cyl 2.4L 145 2384
ACDelco
2010 Saturn Sky Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.4L ACDelco

P311-1ED2116    W0133-1866549  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$361.26
ACDelco Exhaust Manifold
  • Genuine GM
  • [Gma105][Pos.1]
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Saturn Sky L 4 Cyl 2.4L 145 2384
Dorman
2001 Saturn L200 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-37AEA26    W0133-1689968  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$280.92
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Federal
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2001 - Saturn L200 Automatic
Dorman
2006 Saturn Ion Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.2L Dorman

P311-37AEA26    W0133-1689968  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$280.92
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Federal Emissions
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Saturn Ion L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
Dorman
2003 Saturn L200 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-37AEA26    W0133-1689968  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$280.92
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2003 - Saturn L200 Automatic
Dorman
2007 Saturn Ion Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.2L Dorman - Kit

P311-05CF101    W0133-1866409  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$148.15
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Exc.Calif
  • Kit
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Saturn Ion L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
Genuine
2007 Saturn Aura Exhaust Manifold 6 Cyl 3.6L Genuine

P311-10BE74A    W0133-1865795  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$143.97
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Saturn Aura V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
Dorman
2007 Saturn Ion Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.4L Dorman

P311-4B99C02    W0133-1865945  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$185.90
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Saturn Ion L 4 Cyl 2.4L 145 2384
Genuine
2008 Saturn Outlook Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-10BE74A    W0133-1865795  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$143.97
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Single Exhaust
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Saturn Outlook
Genuine
2010 Saturn Outlook Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-10BE74A    W0133-1865795  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$143.97
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • [GMA0175][1]
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2010 - Saturn Outlook XR
Genuine
2008 Saturn Outlook Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-47CBAEF    W0133-1866079  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$212.83
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Single Exhaust
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Saturn Outlook
Genuine
2010 Saturn Outlook Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-47CBAEF    W0133-1866079  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$212.83
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • [GMA0170][1]
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2010 - Saturn Outlook XE
Genuine
2010 Saturn Outlook Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-10BE74A    W0133-1865795  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$143.97
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • [GMA0170][1]
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2010 - Saturn Outlook XE
Genuine
2009 Saturn Vue Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.4L Genuine

P311-10BE74A    W0133-1865795  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$143.97
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • [GMB0075][3]
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Saturn Vue XR L 4 Cyl 2.4L 145 2384
Genuine
2010 Saturn Outlook Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-47CBAEF    W0133-1866079  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$212.83
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • [GMA0175][1]
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2010 - Saturn Outlook XR
Genuine
2009 Saturn Aura Exhaust Manifold 6 Cyl 3.6L Genuine

P311-10BE74A    W0133-1865795  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$143.97
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • [Gma212][Pos.2]
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Saturn Aura V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
Genuine
2008 Saturn Outlook Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-47CBAEF    W0133-1866079  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$212.83
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Dual Exhaust
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Saturn Outlook
Genuine
2008 Saturn Outlook Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-10BE74A    W0133-1865795  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$143.97
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Dual Exhaust
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Saturn Outlook

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

01 Saturn from H*ll FIX

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From comnavguy on 01 Saturn from H*ll FIX

Siddon Bubba, you ainn gonna belieee this BS. (In other parts of the country they say, "once upon a time")

Practically everything on the secondary air system was replaced on this vehicle. We had code 0410 and two flags that were "Not Ready" - secondary air and Evap., and they would not "get ready" no matter what we did. New gas cap. New O2 sensor. Ended up spending about $600 with no good result. We were going nutz.

By accident, almost, we had the secondary air pipe disconnected from the exhaust manifold and started the engine.

EUREKA! No exhaust coming out of the small hole. How can that be???

Carbon clogged. The two vias inside the exhaust manifold were solid carbon. No air was going to get in nor out.

We removed he manifold, cleaned out the carbon, and one drive cycle and all flags cleared and the vehicle passed inspection. If I had not seen it, I would not have believed it. We found 7 other work orders on this problem, just before the previous owner traded it in.

Guys, thanks for all the replies trying to help us with this nightmare. This is one for the books.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Wow, congratulations......

Glad you finally got to the bottom of it.

2000 Saturn Secondary Air Pump location

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on 2000 Saturn Secondary Air Pump location

This is a Saturn 3 door with the 4 cyl DOHC engine throwing a P 0410 code. I need the location of the secondary air pump.

Thanks.

Response From Sidom

It should be in the r fender area towards the front.

I know I don't have to say it but.............Just cuz it has a 410, that doesn't mean the pump is bad

Response From comnavguy Top Rated Answer

I did locate the secondary air pump and all the associated parts - tubes, valves and solenoid. The pump is running the 65 seconds on start-up as it should and is pumping air. The tubes seem to be all OK. The one problem I see is the two stainless steel gaskets - one on the exhaust manifold and the other on the stainless tube attached to the check valve are buggered up, not real flat.

I've ordered new gaskets - $9.60 each - but I have no idea if this will cure the problem. I know the air is measured in parts per billion, so any gap in these gaskets is a problem, but still...

The Problerm: IM code: secondary air not ready along with the fault code, 0410. On this vehicle, we can have 1 IM not ready, but we have 2. The Evap system and the secondary air pump.

What and where is the sensor that measures this secondary air system?

01 Saturn evap canister location?

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on 01 Saturn evap canister location?

This 01 Saturn coupe with the DOHC engine won't pass inspection because it has 2 "Not Ready" I/M monitors. One is the evap system and the other is because of the secondary air pump system is at fault.

The air pump is working and the solenoids and check valves are all OK. We've replaced the upstream O2 sensor just to be sure, but we do not know what keeps this system from being "ready".

Texas will allow one "not ready", so we are going after the evap, but I can not locate the evap canister, and I just discovered that this car has been wrecked, so it's a good likelyhood the canister is cracked.

Where is the canister ?

Response From Hammer Time

Monitors not being ready means that someone has cleared all the stored data recently and now it needs to experience every situation the system monitors so it can have a passing grade. It's just a matter of driving it normally until all the monitors have completed their testing.

Response From comnavguy Top Rated Answer

I have driven this car over 70 miles TWICE since clearing the trouble code 0410. Others have driven it miles and miles since it first failed the inspection for "secondary air system" NOT READY and "EVAP system" NOT READY.

New gas cap. New upstream O2 sensor. New secondary solenoid. New gaskets on stainless pipe from second air pump to exhaust manifold. Pump runs the proper 65 seconds on start-up, pumps air and then stops. Check valve seems to work. All the hoses in and around the secondary pump, solenoid and check valve are OK.

What and where is the monitor/sensor for the secondary air pump and what and where is the monitor/sensor for the EVAP system?

This has been a nightmare for the owner who paid for the (failed) first inspection on 9/10. She has 15 days for the free re-inspection and then it's another $40, and she's already spent nearly $300 on aforementioned non-fixes.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, here is exactly what is required to complete the drive cycle and reset the monitors.

Response From comnavguy

My friend gave up and we took the car to a dealer. A new check valve and $250 later and still 2 "not ready" monitors. That part had already been replaced by the previous owner. Doesn't GM have a record in their computers of what parts/maintenance has been done on that car?

Why can't I find out which sensor(s) are involved in these two systems - EVAP and 2nd air ?

Response From Hammer Time

Replacing sensors will never reset the monitors. Nothing but drive time will reset monitors. Every time someone clears a code in the computer, the whole process starts over again. That's the reason they won't pass you until the monitors reset because all people would have to do is clear the computer before the testing. The computer has to finish running all it's self tests for the monitors to be reset.

Response From comnavguy

We can't clear the monitors. This car has been driven and driven and driven and driven some more, and the two monitors will not get ready, therefore the car can not pass Texas inspection. And after driving the vehicle it re-sets 0410 AGAIN, and the same two flags are
"not ready".

I connect my code reader and drive the cycles you gave me and watch all the flags clear but the same two. Then after a few stops and starts, the 0410 sets. We do another "repair", go through the cycle and the same two flags will not "get ready" and then soon thereafter the 0410 sets again.

We have been doing this for 2 weeks and about $400, and we are still two flags "not ready" and code 0410.

We are going nuts.

Response From Hammer Time

Apparently, you haven't resolved the PO410 as yet. This is a problem with the air pump system.

Here is the flow chart for that code. See if it helps you.

Response From comnavguy

We have not corrected the problem...YET, AND the owner of this vehicle can't catch a break.

Last night a next door neighbor coming home at 3 AM after having a glass of wine or 16 slammed into his pickup sitting about 40 feet behind the vehicle from H*ll. Cops estimated her speed at 50 to 60 MPH, flipping her truck and probably totaling his truck.

No apparent injury to the woman. Her 3rd DWI crash this year.

Is this karma for our trying to figure out how we could burn the car from H*ll?

Thanks so much for the additional info on setting and clearing flags. We ain't giving up, but we are losing our minds. I can't thank you enough for scratching your heads with us.

Response From Sidom

I haven't read this whole thread and don't have all the exact info but will just add a little background on the moniters.

As you already know all the moniters have certain codes they set when run and something fails. There is a certain order they run in, from A to B to C and so on. If for some reason B doesn't run or pass the C, D & E won't run til B runs and passes.

Some systems require other systems to be working so they can use them to run their tests. If they don't work, the tests can't be run.

On thing you have to becareful on when you have 1 or more moniters than haven't run with 1 code only...... Once you fix that system and the other moniters run, it's very possible some new codes that have never been seen before could pop up due to previous problems that went undetected due to the moniters not being able to run. If the customer isn't aware of this before hand, now all those brand new codes are your fault because they were never there until you touched the car....... BTDT

EGR P401 Code - Scanner Tool / ELM327 commands -

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From ethardy2 on EGR P401 Code - Scanner Tool / ELM327 commands -

2001
Saturn
SL1
1.9L
197k Miles

I've been working on this car for a few weeks now, trying different things to fix the P401 code (insufficient EGR flow). So far, I've replaced the EGR valve, cleaned the passages as best I can, removed the intake manifold and cleaned everything I could, removed the exhaust manifold and cleaned out a ton of carbon deposit. I put it back together and drove it 1.9 miles, and the check engine light came on again, same code.

I then purchased a scan tool from myscantool.com, and hooked it up to my laptop. The software shows me the Intake Manifold pressure, but it does not have the functionality to command the EGR valve to open. It does have an ELM327 interface terminal to send commands to the PCM directly, so I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me find the code to enter into the terminal to command the EGR valve to open, so I can see if the engine stalls.

Does anyone know where I can get the ELM327 code to command the EGR valve to open?

Or, Does anyone know of a good software tool that will have that function built in?

I know you can do it by jumpering the terminals of on the EGR valve itself, but the connector is made in a way that makes it almost impossible to do it without stripping the wires.

I appreciate any help! Cheers!

Erich

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The cars computer has to have that test built into it. If it does, it will be under functional tests.

Satrun 2002 sl1 help please...

Showing 7 out of 23 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From jewlsu4 on Satrun 2002 sl1 help please...

Hi, I have an issue with my 2002 Saturn sl1 over 200,000 k. I started it the other day and the oil presser light came on so I turned the car off and checked the oil. It was a little low but good. It has been burning oil a lot. So I tried to restart it and it wouldn't go, it turned over lights and radio were working. I got a boost and it stared after a few tries. The battery is fine. So the oil pressure like came back on while driving. Flashing while accelerating. then going off when not. I checked the oil again and added more. And I made it back home. So I Changed out the oil pressure censor. And it continued to have the same problem.. You can smell burning oil .And I checked right away under the car and noticed the flex pipe was smoking. Would the flex pipe cause the oil presser light to come on. Or what would cause the issue with the flex pipe. There is a lot of oil at the back of the engine but I don’t know if there is a leak or not. There is black soot in the tail pipe. There are no trouble codes. I did a dry compression test 4 or 5 stroke. 5 count. But I guess I didn't leave it long enough and will have to re due it. Cylinder 1 came in at 135. - 2 was at 150. -3 at 140 -4 at 150. Plugs are clean. Boots and wires volt tested 1.at 3.9. -2 at 3.4. -3 at 3.1. -4 at 2.6. I also did an air leak test with a air compressor in the cylinder. No air coming from the coolant, No air from the tail pipe No air coming from the oil cap area. But air was coming from the throttle body. But I didn't remove the PCV valve. Which I guess can give a false reading so Ill have to re due that. The air intake manifold was removed at the time. I checked the PCV valve and it was oily and there were traces of oil in the tube to the throttle body. I'm not sure if that's normal. The valve was changed last year. I check out the fuel system by doing a few simple tests, system came on when in on position also heard the whirl in the tank. The water pump and starter and etc. censer where recently changed. Car temp says it’s normal, the EGR valve was cleaned. The hoses for the coolant are hot. Fan only works well on high I have to fix that. Now I did notice that the Exhaust manifold got extremely hot after only one minute of the engine running. And I stared to smell burning oil. May that be an issue? I’ve had no luck with getting an oil presser tester. All I could find are gauges no testers. Checked all part stores and pawn shops and kijiji. I priced out getting it checked at a few places and they want 150 to 250 to check it. So I think I will try and make one. I think all I need is a liquid filled gauge with 50 to 150 psi. And a fitting for the oil censer area and tube. I will try that and see if I can get a presser reading. If you have any thoughts please comment.

Response From Discretesignals

Wow that is one heck of a long paragraph. In fact in the middle of your paragraph you repeated what you just wrote.


I think the main thing you should be concerned with is the low oil pressure light coming on. All the other stuff doesn't mean anything if the engine has low oil pressure. You need to hook up an oil pressure gauge to confirm if it actually has low oil pressure or not. If it does, you might as well start looking for another engine or vehicle.

Response From jewlsu4

I fixed my original post I think.lol.

Response From Discretesignals

Engine oil pressure testers can be found all over the internet. Even Amazon sells them.

Your first priority is determining if the engine itself has adaquate oil pressure. You shouldn't drive or run the engine anymore until you have the oil pressure tested. Without enough or any oil pressure, your engine is toast.

Response From jewlsu4

I don't want to order on online it could take weeks to get it. Do I need just a gauge or a tester? Is there a difference for my particular situation? I found some gauges at princess auto. Just not sure what one I am suppose to get the air one that reads 0 to 200 or the liquid one that reads from 0 to 2000 psi. I was told at idle the oil pressure should be 13psi min, at 2000 rpms it should be 29psi min oil pressure cold at 2500 rpms 80psi min. So I need a gauge that would show lower psi readings?

Response From Discretesignals

You wouldn't want a gauge that reads more than 100 psi or else you would have a hard time reading lower pressures. You should be able to tell them what you want it for and they may be able to point you in the right direction. Ideally you want the tester because the tester comes with a gauge, hose, and adapters so you can screw the hose into the oil pressure port on the engine. If you go your route, you have to gather all the pieces to make it work.

Something like this would work:



Response From jewlsu4

Got a oil pressure tester. Started the car. Oil reading came in at 59 for idle at 100 rpms. On the cold engine. After it warmed up.It slowly went down to 10. at 70 rpms. At cold start at 2000 rpms the gauge went up to 70. Also not much of a change when up to 2500.rpms. I let the car warm up for 5 mins. Checking the rpms occasionally to see if they went up when accelerated. Only went up to 70. So after the car was warm I went up to 3000 .Then I lost pressure. It would not go back up when rpms raised. Idle stayed at 10 on Gage. I shut the car off checked the connection for the ague. I restarted the car but there was no pressure on acceleration. I waited an hour and Restarted the car And the gauge read 18 psi. And when revved the gauge lowered. I shut the car off. Any Ideas?

Response From Hammer Time

I'm suspecting that the sump screen is getting plugged up with garbage in the pan. You probably should drop the pan and check it out.

Response From jewlsu4

Did another compression tests 10 strokes. Came back with 175-180 for cylinders. Gonna get a T connector hook in pressure tester and censer and run till the light comes on again. See what going on and go from there. Don't think I have the right tools to drop the oil pan.

Response From Hammer Time

About the only way oil pressure will drop under acceleration is if it loses the oil supply fpr some reason and a blocked screen is the most likely. Compression has nothing to do with the problem.

Response From jewlsu4

Well after coming to no conclusion. I brought my car into Canadian tire, which it the closest place for me.I told them everything and they lifted it up to see what was going on.They think That I have a leak some where at the back of the engine and also from somewhere in the Timing chain camshaft area. He also said he smells fuel in the oil. He said the cost of repairs are not worth fixing it. So I guess I'm looking for a new car. Not sure where to start with that one.lol.Thanks for everything.

Response From Hammer Time

If they took nothing apart their diagnosis amounts to no more than a wild guess. It's a 2002. It should be worth putting a used motor into.

Response From Discretesignals

The guy didn't charge me which was nice. He just kept telling me how impressed he was with me.lol.

I think he was more interested in you than the car. I can't blame him.

I'd be curious to pull the valve cover and see if the top of the cylinder head is sludged up. HT is probably on the right track about the pick up screen getting clogged. Its also possible the oil returns on the top of the head could be sludged and not letting the oil return to the oil pan fast enough. The oil leaks could have started because there is excessive crank case pressure from a non functioning crankcase ventilation system. Usually they become non functional due to being plugged up with sludge.

Response From jewlsu4 Top Rated Answer

I'm gonna take off the valve cover, the tire and splash Gard and see If there's any obvious.

Response From Hammer Time

Tire and splash guard?

We're looking at the inside of the engine, not the outside. There is nothing to see in the wheel well.

Response From jewlsu4

I was just going to take it off to look and see whats going on I have to take it all aprt to get in there anyway. So I did notice one thing today when replacing the Oil censer from the presser tester and saw that the wire connector to the censer has two hole for the prongs. But only one of the holes had a piece of metal in it for connection.Would that be another issue. Or is it suppose to be like that. Well I went car shopping with no luck yet I did find a used sea bring convertible jx. lol. 130 k for 3999. Might get me by for a bit and have some fun in the summer. Gonna get at the valve cover this week sometime.

Response From Hammer Time

Simply look at how many wires there are.

Response From Discretesignals

You might as well shoot yourself in the face if you buy a Sebring. Just my 2 cents.

Response From jewlsu4

No Sea Bring.lol Just like the idea of a convertible. I took some pics. I took off the valve cover. And it was clean, Maybe to dry? Right side had a little oil and left side was clean You can see the brass tones. So I took off the wheel and gard to have a look where the leak may be comeing from because theres only oil around the filter area Alternator and above the filer which I cant getrin to see.The tensioner, pump and pully and belt clean.I 'm pretty sure its too much to just be a leaky filter. But I dont know could be spreeding out. Im gonna do a filter change anyway and try and clean up the area. I did not see any leaks from the valve cover or any oil around on the engine. Not sure about the leak in the back could be old oil?Who knows yet. Its snowing and that's all I can do today.lol.

Response From Discretesignals

Thanks for letting us know your outcome even though it sucks monkey nuts. Sorry to see that you had gotten bad news. It doesn't take very long to trash an engine once the oil pressure goes out.

If the transmission and the rest of the car is in good shape, you might be able to get a good low mileage used engine from a salvage yard and have it installed. Most salvage yards have a warranty, so check that out. You can also go with a re-manufactured long block if you don't want a salvage yard unit. It may be cheaper to have another engine installed instead of having payments on a new car or buying a used one.

Get some quotes and then you can make a better decision on what you would like to do. If you go with another used vehicle, have it inspected by your mechanic before purchasing it. It's smart to have a professional check it over to be sure your not getting another problem child.

Response From jewlsu4

I don't think the engine is trashed. The engine Compression is good? Not making any noise or over heating. Its still running. It didn't die to and from the shop.lol. I had the pressure tester on all the way and it stayed at About 60 psi on the way there. I didn't check it on the way back after the bad news but I tried to stay under 2000 rpms. It did fell a little doggish going home. I think the pressure did drop. We lifted up the front right splash shield and there is a lot of oil coming from some where which wasn't there a few weeks ago. And I park in the same spot everyday and no puddle. The guy said it would be like 900 bucks just to get in a look at that one spot. Then there's a leak at the back of the engine behind the starter which he guesses is a head gasket. Which I could probably do myself. And then the fuel thing too. But that could be because of the head gasket I think If there's a leak. He mentioned checking the fuel injectors and that maybe to much fuel is getting in. I dont have a garage I'm doing this on the street in front of my house.lol. And to remove the crankshaft and what not could get messy. I may park it in the back and wait till the summer and have a project on my hands. I wont be buying a used car. Brand new. I don't want to buy someone elses problem.lol. I bought my Saturn brand new off the lot and I think I put just as much into it as I paid for it. The guy didn't charge me which was nice. He just kept telling me how impressed he was with me.lol.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

jewlsu4: Please space out thought like paragraphs. I may be challenged but can't read run on sentences and paragraphs,

T

Response From Hammer Time

http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=oil+pressure+tester