Shop Saturn Exhaust Manifolds

It should be in the r fender area towards the front.

I know I don't have to say it but.............Just cuz it has a 410, that doesn't mean the pump is bad

Monitors not being ready means that someone has cleared all the stored data recently and now it needs to experience every situation the system monitors so it can have a passing grade. It's just a matter of driving it normally until all the monitors have completed their testing.

OK, here is exactly what is required to complete the drive cycle and reset the monitors.

My friend gave up and we took the car to a dealer. A new check valve and $250 later and still 2 "not ready" monitors. That part had already been replaced by the previous owner. Doesn't GM have a record in their computers of what parts/maintenance has been done on that car?

Why can't I find out which sensor(s) are involved in these two systems - EVAP and 2nd air ?

Replacing sensors will never reset the monitors. Nothing but drive time will reset monitors. Every time someone clears a code in the computer, the whole process starts over again. That's the reason they won't pass you until the monitors reset because all people would have to do is clear the computer before the testing. The computer has to finish running all it's self tests for the monitors to be reset.

We can't clear the monitors. This car has been driven and driven and driven and driven some more, and the two monitors will not get ready, therefore the car can not pass Texas inspection. And after driving the vehicle it re-sets 0410 AGAIN, and the same two flags are
"not ready".

I connect my code reader and drive the cycles you gave me and watch all the flags clear but the same two. Then after a few stops and starts, the 0410 sets. We do another "repair", go through the cycle and the same two flags will not "get ready" and then soon thereafter the 0410 sets again.

We have been doing this for 2 weeks and about $400, and we are still two flags "not ready" and code 0410.

We are going nuts.

Apparently, you haven't resolved the PO410 as yet. This is a problem with the air pump system.

Here is the flow chart for that code. See if it helps you.

We have not corrected the problem...YET, AND the owner of this vehicle can't catch a break.

Last night a next door neighbor coming home at 3 AM after having a glass of wine or 16 slammed into his pickup sitting about 40 feet behind the vehicle from H*ll. Cops estimated her speed at 50 to 60 MPH, flipping her truck and probably totaling his truck.

No apparent injury to the woman. Her 3rd DWI crash this year.

Is this karma for our trying to figure out how we could burn the car from H*ll?

Thanks so much for the additional info on setting and clearing flags. We ain't giving up, but we are losing our minds. I can't thank you enough for scratching your heads with us.

I haven't read this whole thread and don't have all the exact info but will just add a little background on the moniters.

As you already know all the moniters have certain codes they set when run and something fails. There is a certain order they run in, from A to B to C and so on. If for some reason B doesn't run or pass the C, D & E won't run til B runs and passes.

Some systems require other systems to be working so they can use them to run their tests. If they don't work, the tests can't be run.

On thing you have to becareful on when you have 1 or more moniters than haven't run with 1 code only...... Once you fix that system and the other moniters run, it's very possible some new codes that have never been seen before could pop up due to previous problems that went undetected due to the moniters not being able to run. If the customer isn't aware of this before hand, now all those brand new codes are your fault because they were never there until you touched the car....... BTDT

Wow that is one heck of a long paragraph. In fact in the middle of your paragraph you repeated what you just wrote.


I think the main thing you should be concerned with is the low oil pressure light coming on. All the other stuff doesn't mean anything if the engine has low oil pressure. You need to hook up an oil pressure gauge to confirm if it actually has low oil pressure or not. If it does, you might as well start looking for another engine or vehicle.

Engine oil pressure testers can be found all over the internet. Even Amazon sells them.

Your first priority is determining if the engine itself has adaquate oil pressure. You shouldn't drive or run the engine anymore until you have the oil pressure tested. Without enough or any oil pressure, your engine is toast.

I don't want to order on online it could take weeks to get it. Do I need just a gauge or a tester? Is there a difference for my particular situation? I found some gauges at princess auto. Just not sure what one I am suppose to get the air one that reads 0 to 200 or the liquid one that reads from 0 to 2000 psi. I was told at idle the oil pressure should be 13psi min, at 2000 rpms it should be 29psi min oil pressure cold at 2500 rpms 80psi min. So I need a gauge that would show lower psi readings?

Got a oil pressure tester. Started the car. Oil reading came in at 59 for idle at 100 rpms. On the cold engine. After it warmed up.It slowly went down to 10. at 70 rpms. At cold start at 2000 rpms the gauge went up to 70. Also not much of a change when up to 2500.rpms. I let the car warm up for 5 mins. Checking the rpms occasionally to see if they went up when accelerated. Only went up to 70. So after the car was warm I went up to 3000 .Then I lost pressure. It would not go back up when rpms raised. Idle stayed at 10 on Gage. I shut the car off checked the connection for the ague. I restarted the car but there was no pressure on acceleration. I waited an hour and Restarted the car And the gauge read 18 psi. And when revved the gauge lowered. I shut the car off. Any Ideas?

Did another compression tests 10 strokes. Came back with 175-180 for cylinders. Gonna get a T connector hook in pressure tester and censer and run till the light comes on again. See what going on and go from there. Don't think I have the right tools to drop the oil pan.

About the only way oil pressure will drop under acceleration is if it loses the oil supply fpr some reason and a blocked screen is the most likely. Compression has nothing to do with the problem.

Well after coming to no conclusion. I brought my car into Canadian tire, which it the closest place for me.I told them everything and they lifted it up to see what was going on.They think That I have a leak some where at the back of the engine and also from somewhere in the Timing chain camshaft area. He also said he smells fuel in the oil. He said the cost of repairs are not worth fixing it. So I guess I'm looking for a new car. Not sure where to start with that one.lol.Thanks for everything.

The guy didn't charge me which was nice. He just kept telling me how impressed he was with me.lol.

I think he was more interested in you than the car. I can't blame him.

I'd be curious to pull the valve cover and see if the top of the cylinder head is sludged up. HT is probably on the right track about the pick up screen getting clogged. Its also possible the oil returns on the top of the head could be sludged and not letting the oil return to the oil pan fast enough. The oil leaks could have started because there is excessive crank case pressure from a non functioning crankcase ventilation system. Usually they become non functional due to being plugged up with sludge.

Tire and splash guard?

We're looking at the inside of the engine, not the outside. There is nothing to see in the wheel well.

I was just going to take it off to look and see whats going on I have to take it all aprt to get in there anyway. So I did notice one thing today when replacing the Oil censer from the presser tester and saw that the wire connector to the censer has two hole for the prongs. But only one of the holes had a piece of metal in it for connection.Would that be another issue. Or is it suppose to be like that. Well I went car shopping with no luck yet I did find a used sea bring convertible jx. lol. 130 k for 3999. Might get me by for a bit and have some fun in the summer. Gonna get at the valve cover this week sometime.

Simply look at how many wires there are.

You might as well shoot yourself in the face if you buy a Sebring. Just my 2 cents.

No Sea Bring.lol Just like the idea of a convertible. I took some pics. I took off the valve cover. And it was clean, Maybe to dry? Right side had a little oil and left side was clean You can see the brass tones. So I took off the wheel and gard to have a look where the leak may be comeing from because theres only oil around the filter area Alternator and above the filer which I cant getrin to see.The tensioner, pump and pully and belt clean.I 'm pretty sure its too much to just be a leaky filter. But I dont know could be spreeding out. Im gonna do a filter change anyway and try and clean up the area. I did not see any leaks from the valve cover or any oil around on the engine. Not sure about the leak in the back could be old oil?Who knows yet. Its snowing and that's all I can do today.lol.

Thanks for letting us know your outcome even though it sucks monkey nuts. Sorry to see that you had gotten bad news. It doesn't take very long to trash an engine once the oil pressure goes out.

If the transmission and the rest of the car is in good shape, you might be able to get a good low mileage used engine from a salvage yard and have it installed. Most salvage yards have a warranty, so check that out. You can also go with a re-manufactured long block if you don't want a salvage yard unit. It may be cheaper to have another engine installed instead of having payments on a new car or buying a used one.

Get some quotes and then you can make a better decision on what you would like to do. If you go with another used vehicle, have it inspected by your mechanic before purchasing it. It's smart to have a professional check it over to be sure your not getting another problem child.

I don't think the engine is trashed. The engine Compression is good? Not making any noise or over heating. Its still running. It didn't die to and from the shop.lol. I had the pressure tester on all the way and it stayed at About 60 psi on the way there. I didn't check it on the way back after the bad news but I tried to stay under 2000 rpms. It did fell a little doggish going home. I think the pressure did drop. We lifted up the front right splash shield and there is a lot of oil coming from some where which wasn't there a few weeks ago. And I park in the same spot everyday and no puddle. The guy said it would be like 900 bucks just to get in a look at that one spot. Then there's a leak at the back of the engine behind the starter which he guesses is a head gasket. Which I could probably do myself. And then the fuel thing too. But that could be because of the head gasket I think If there's a leak. He mentioned checking the fuel injectors and that maybe to much fuel is getting in. I dont have a garage I'm doing this on the street in front of my house.lol. And to remove the crankshaft and what not could get messy. I may park it in the back and wait till the summer and have a project on my hands. I wont be buying a used car. Brand new. I don't want to buy someone elses problem.lol. I bought my Saturn brand new off the lot and I think I put just as much into it as I paid for it. The guy didn't charge me which was nice. He just kept telling me how impressed he was with me.lol.

jewlsu4: Please space out thought like paragraphs. I may be challenged but can't read run on sentences and paragraphs,

T