802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Exhaust Manifold

Choose a Year for your Ram 's Exhaust Manifold

  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ATP
    ATP
  • BD Diesel
    BD Diesel
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • Mopar
    Mopar

Best Selling Genuine Ram Exhaust Manifolds

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, ATP, Mopar, BD Diesel
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Ram Replacement Exhaust Manifold Parts

We stock Exhaust Manifold parts for most Ram models, including 1500, 2500, 3500, 4000.

Dorman
2013 Ram 4000 Exhaust Manifold - Right 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-2D7ECC5    674-923  New

101479 , 68045560AB

Qty:
$82.84
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Right
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Exhaust Manifold Inlet Port Shape: Oval
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Position Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Ram 4000 Mexico Right V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Dorman
2011 Ram 1500 Exhaust Manifold - Right 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-2D7ECC5    674-923  New

101479 , 68045560AB

Qty:
$82.84
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Right
  • w/Multi-Displacement System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Exhaust Manifold Inlet Port Shape: Oval
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 1500 Right V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Dorman
2015 Ram 4000 Exhaust Manifold - Left 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-2D04CE0    674-922  New

68045559AB , 68045559AA , 101478

Qty:
$93.83
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Left
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Exhaust Manifold Inlet Port Shape: Oval
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Position Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Ram 4000 Mexico Left V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Dorman
2011 Ram 1500 Exhaust Manifold - Left 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-2D04CE0    674-922  New

68045559AB , 68045559AA , 101478

Qty:
$93.83
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Left
  • w/Multi-Displacement System
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Exhaust Manifold Inlet Port Shape: Oval
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Item Grade: Regular
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 1500 Left V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
ATP
2012 Ram 3500 Exhaust Manifold - Right 8 Cyl 5.7L ATP

P311-551E36C    101479  New

101479 , 680455560AB

Qty:
$143.44
ATP Exhaust Manifold  Right
  • ATP Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Exhaust Manifold Position: Passenger Side
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: None
    • Includes in Box: Exhaust Manifold - 1 Manifold Gasket - 2 Bolts - 2 Nuts
    • Inlet Port Shape: Oval
    • Item Grade: Oe Standard Replacement
    • LineCode: Atp2
    • Warranty: Lifetime Warranty
  • ATP exhaust manifolds transport burnt exhaust gasses from the engine to the exhaust system. Over time exhaust manifolds can crack or warp releasing hot exhaust gas into the engine compartment. These gases can find their way into the passenger cabin creating a dangerous situation. The best way to repair the broken manifold is to replace it with a new one. ATP Exhaust manifolds are designed to fit and function like the original part restoring the exhaust system by eliminating the dangerous leaks.
Brand: ATP
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Ram 3500 Right V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Mopar
2017 Ram 2500 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 5.7L Mopar

P311-5EF5207    W0133-2846418  New

Qty:
$151.38
Mopar Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Ram 2500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Mopar
2017 Ram 2500 Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 5.7L Mopar

P311-5EF5207    W0133-2846418  New

Qty:
$151.38
Mopar Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Ram 2500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
BD Diesel
2016 Ram 3500 Exhaust Manifold 6 Cyl 6.7L BD Diesel - Exhaust Manifold

P311-17C3349    1045965  New

Qty:
$537.62
BD Diesel Exhaust Manifold
  • BD 6.7L Cummins Exhaust Manifold Dodge 2007.5-2018 2500/3500 Pick-up
  • Performance Stock Replacement For Use w/Holset HE351 Turbo; Includes Manifold/Studs/Plug 1/8 in. NPT/Nut;Not Legal For Sale Or Use On Vehicles Registered In California
  • Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Position: N/a
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning Cancer And Reproductive Harm Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • BD Diesel Performance is unique among its peers in that it designs, manufactures and distributes a wide range of products specifically engineered for performance diesel applications. Located in Abbotsford, British Columbia, Canada, BD's state-of-the-art facility covers 65,000 square feet, and employs 60 plus highly-trained individuals. The BD name became recognized in 1989, when the company introduced the first exhaust brake for the burgeoning diesel pick-up truck market. BD's roots, however, actually date back to 1972, when Valley Fuel Injection, Ltd. first opened its doors. Today, Valley Fuel Injection and BD Diesel Performance are one, with eight specialty divisions that focus on diesel power train components: Fuel Injection Calibration Department, Exhaust Brake Manufacturing, Electronic Circuit Design and Assembly, Transmission and Torque Converter Design and Remanufacturing, Turbocharger Design, Installation and Research and Development. BD's comprehensive approach to the diesel performance aftermarket ensures not only quality products, but educated dealers and satisfied customers. Thank you for your interest in BD Diesel Performance!
Brand: BD Diesel
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Ram 3500 L 6 Cyl 6.7L 408 -

Latest Ram Repair and Exhaust Manifold Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

exhaust leak 69 chevy 350

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From 69chevystepside on exhaust leak 69 chevy 350

I know i have an exhaust leak somewhere.but have never changed he gaskets or donut gasket.they are the rams head headers.and they look rusty.any suggestions.thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Aftermarket everything? Whatever - you can wen cold just quick get it to idle and plug tail pipe(s) a bit and feel for leak if not obvious. If rusty in general you may need new something headers or not then so on. Rust can make leaks anywhere.


IDK - If this is all custom the "Muffler" {so called} specialty shops can be good at all this making up pipe or whatevers if not known factory parts it's going to be a challenge IMO,


T

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

they are cast iron exhaust manifolds- they will look rusty especially if OEM.
do as tom suggested on cold engine have someone restrict tail pipe (hold a rag) while you find the leak -
old rusty exhaust work - if you do not cuss now you will soon enough....


ram head was a desirable OEM exhaust manifold shape ... CONSIDERED almost headers.

2004 Dodge Ram 1500 - 5.7 Hemi Repair Advice

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From Rom0no on 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 - 5.7 Hemi Repair Advice

My 2004 Dodge Ram 5.7 Hemi originally had two broken bolts on the exhaust manifold. A mechanic "friend" owes me quite a bit of money in unpaid back rent for the shop he leases from me and offered to do the repair for the money owed. It took him over a month to fix the original problem (the broken bolts) then he came back and said he "discovered" coolant in the oil pan and he needed to tear it down again to replace the head gasket. Another month went by for that repair. Now the truck won't idle and he diagnosed the problem as bad fuel injectors. Another month goes by. After installing new fuel injectors the truck still won't idle. After scratching his head for two weeks he decided it must be a stuck valve and he has to tear the engine down a third time. So, three and a half months have gone by and he still isn't any closer to finishing. I've spent about $1,700 in parts and he has accumulated another $3,000 in unpaid back rent since he started the job and he doesn't seem to be any closer to fixing a problem the truck didn't have until he "fixed" the original problem.

I guess I'm asking could a stuck valve be the issue? To me it seems like a vacuum problem such as a hose installed incorrectly or bad gasket is a more reasonable explanation. Also, he assures me that three, four or even five months is a reasonable amount of time to spend on an issue like this. Any advice is appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Also, he assures me that three, four or even five months is a reasonable amount of time to spend on an issue like this. Any advice is appreciated."


What a mess! This is near impossible to put any credibility to mechanically. Friends, biz, the time extremes are plain messed up.


IDK - Doesn't seem it's going to be fixed by this person at all - right?
I think your option for fixing this is taking it some other place qualified and in biz ready to fix problems of the sort up to and including finding out what may have been really messed up tearing into it for a problem I'm not convinced it had??
Sure doesn't seem like there's a lot of motivation to hurry or fix this for you at all so probably cut loses and take it elsewhere and deal with $$ issues separately,


T

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

I agree " so probably cut loses and take it elsewhere and deal with $$ issues separately"


PS run don't walk

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Where's DS with a graphic or animation for that? Oh boy! T

Response From Hammer Time

I hear he does body work too....................



Response From Discretesignals

You think your helping someone out because they are back on their rent. Must have been unable to pay his rent for some reason. Maybe because he stinks as a mechanic? He didn't pay his rent and then he screwed up your truck. You got it put in real deep.

All I can say is lesson learned on this one.


Here is a video on removing those broken exhaust bolts...little too late now, but maybe good for someone out there.


Response From Discretesignals

.4152/

1989 dodge ram d100 318 fuel injectioin engine wont run right

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From leeroy1972 on 1989 dodge ram d100 318 fuel injectioin engine wont run right

My truck was running good one day it started running rough and it started losing power it idles good when in park
it is hard to start at first and its cold collered and it never was like that. I put new plugs and wires on it and fuel regulator
and fuel pump and filter and also a map sensor, cleaned injectors, coolant sensor, timing redone and also throttle control swtch.
Wat else could i check so it wont run so rough and feel like it has no power, but when u get it over 10 mph it drives good but once u get to redlight it wantss to die and wont take off right ans sometimes it will die. Does anybody know anything that could help me out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some ideas to check at the age:

Vacuum leaks, PCV system - sludge situation if any.

? How much was the timing off? It doesn't really change on it's own unless touched.

Clean throttle body.

One more for now is check lash in timing chain. TMK if OE it would still be a nylon cam gear and they don't hold up well with time, never mind miles. It's an interference engine (pretty sure) meaning valves can crash into pistons if it goes - worth paying attention to those even though they can last a long time,

T

Response From leeroy1972

how do i check timing chain and what is tmk or oe mean....

Response From leeroy1972

what about oxygen sensor would this cause the excelarator to bogg down..

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

1989 and a truck? I don't think most or any O2 sensors would cause rough running alone as they can on newer stuff. It may be bad but IMO for the year more to tell you something isn't quite right to tend to and the ones I've personally dealt with the result of another problem rather than the source.

If misfiring or raw fuel overloads a converter they can and will clog up and the common feel of that was (to me) low even power as like an exhaust restriction which it would become. Would usually work OK cold for a while then lose power but smoothly up to quitting.

You can do a simple test for exhaust restriction if you want to rule that out by just watching actual manifold vacuum at idle and with no load again at 2,000 RPMs and they should be dang near the same. If much lower at the raised idle it strongly suggests exhaust restriction.

Other on this Mopar. It may use a thermostatic "thingy" (nice definition Tom) on one exhaust manifold to shoot warm air under to help atomize fuel while cold then give up as engine warmed up. That was more on older stuff than this but trucks may have hung on to that a bit longer?? I plead IDK as for a while back when trucks were given longer to meet standards than passenger cars for a while and by the 90s had to meet all for sale to the US anyway.

Guessing as it's old and a truck but if it has one of those stuck (should be free in hand - cold check please) and stayed on they could clog the heck out of things with sludge unseen. Doubt you have that AND fuel injection. What else have you found checking? Plain guessing isn't the best approach even that long ago,

T

Response From leeroy1972

is there any we you can call me at 931 638 9138 i live in tennessee...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Rather leave things on the web. Two easy ways without tearing the thing apart to get a good clue on timing chains is 1. Take an actual manifold vacuum reading and should be near 18Hg on a "T" connector so item still gets vacuum. Another is to set timing mark at TDC, removed distributor cap and see how many degrees it turns before rotor inside distributor turns. Turn by crank bolt back and forth. IMO 5 degrees is enough of free-play. Short of seeing it with a scope and not sure you can you'd have to be looking at it. Not sure there's an easy inspection item to see it.

I drive older stuff and know what can happen with age and miles even on good American Iron the OE (original equipment) parts used a lot of plastic cam gears. Replacements would be all metal and last quite well.

At the age it could be a lot of diagnosing and perhaps some guessing if not owned since new ( or excellent history) it's one place where to start looking,

T

please help...need to fix prob. asap

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From yagerkagen on please help...need to fix prob. asap

1997 dodge ram 1500 v6:

doesn't idle, sometimes doesrn't start, might be battery.

1985 chrysle yorker

won't idle until warmed up...black smoke when it starts, loss of power.

EDIT: ok, i was short on time earlier and was rather vague....sooooo, heres the full problems......

1997 dodge, standard:(this is for a friend of mine..need to fix asap....please help..)

alright, one day the truck just suddenly wouldn't crank when you turned the key. All it did when when turning the key was click. He had the battery tested, because this had happened once before, and they said the battery was still good. next day, he had o go to work, but when he started his truck, it wouldn't ide, he had to feather the gas to keep it running. he brought it to my house so i could try to help figure out the problem. when he got to my house, he shut off the truck and came inside. when he tried to start the truck for me to hear it....1st time he tried, it started, but it sounded real bad, like it was barely struggling to keep running, he let off the gas and it died...2nd time it made a click ing noise, after that it did nothing. My battery charger doesn''t have clips, just exposed wire. we took the battery cables off, put the wire on etc....the battery charger for some reason wouldn't turn on. we removed it and put the cable back on. he turned the key and it started without any problem and idled, and it sounded just fine. What would cause this to happen, we need to prevent this from happening, so he can get to work..thanks..



1985 chrysler new yorker, 4 cylender, 2.6l, automatic: (this is for me..not in any hurry for this one, trying o get my car running)

when i start my car and the engine is not already warmed up, it barely runs. A black and white mix of smoke comes out the muffler and white smoke with a little bit of blck smoke mix in comes from the back by the exhaust manifold. I have already checked the seal, the guy i bought it from had a new one on it so it was still good. When I put back on, i torqued it to what the manual said(don't remember..i think it was 13ftlbs?..). I have to push the gas pedal to the floor to keep the car running and it uses alot of gas. When it warms up it will idle just fine. When I drive it, it doesn't much power. I have to floor it to really start getting up to even 20-30 mph. How can I fix this problem? thanks..

Response From Guest

For the truck:Get a voltage meter/tester ready and begin at the battery - cable from the terminal to the body mount location,visually inspect,check resistance while jiggling wire to check for internal corrosion,repeat this proccess for the battery +12v cable from the terminal to the starter sylenoid and also check the 12v capabilities of the wire(s) now follow that set of wires from your sylenoid to the power distribution box and alternator these are the wires that if damaged or corroded will cause that to happen,replace any that are bad,check the values of these wires @ idle (be very cautious of the alternator fan and other moving parts) and see if everything is getting the main 12 volt when it needs it.Also does your check engine light illuminate at any time?

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Your friend’s truck I’m not sure; could be so many things and from this end they all would be just guesses. All I can say about the no crank is to clean all cable connections and not just the battery terminals but the other ends of the cables where the positive connects to the starter and the negative to the engine block. After that; without checking myself; possibly a dead spot on the starter’s armature?

For your 2.6 Mitsubishi it sounds like the choke pull-off is not functioning. The pull-off is designed to crack the choke open approximately a 1/16” as soon as the engine starts. It does this by using engine vacuum applied to a diaphragm, which pulls on the choke mechanism, overcoming choke spring tension.
This diaphragm likely has a hole in it or the vacuum passages are plugged. Replacing this diaphragm is no easy job and if not done carefully you will damage the carb. I suggest taking it to someone who is familiar with this to have it checked and replaced if need be. The main body of the carb is plastic and can crack as your removing the heat shield’s rivets and shield to gain access to the pull-off assembly housing.
This choke also uses engine coolant to heat the choke’s by-metallic spring. The passageways that feed the warmed coolant to the choke were bad for plugging up with crud, stopping the coolant flow. No hot coolant and the choke will stay on forever, causing the engine to run overly rich. (black smoke)
Dan.