Shop Ram Exhaust Manifolds

I know i have an exhaust leak somewhere.but have never changed he gaskets or donut gasket.they are the rams head headers.and they look rusty.any suggestions.thanks

they are cast iron exhaust manifolds- they will look rusty especially if OEM.
do as tom suggested on cold engine have someone restrict tail pipe (hold a rag) while you find the leak -
old rusty exhaust work - if you do not cuss now you will soon enough....


ram head was a desirable OEM exhaust manifold shape ... CONSIDERED almost headers.

My 2004 Dodge Ram 5.7 Hemi originally had two broken bolts on the exhaust manifold. A mechanic "friend" owes me quite a bit of money in unpaid back rent for the shop he leases from me and offered to do the repair for the money owed. It took him over a month to fix the original problem (the broken bolts) then he came back and said he "discovered" coolant in the oil pan and he needed to tear it down again to replace the head gasket. Another month went by for that repair. Now the truck won't idle and he diagnosed the problem as bad fuel injectors. Another month goes by. After installing new fuel injectors the truck still won't idle. After scratching his head for two weeks he decided it must be a stuck valve and he has to tear the engine down a third time. So, three and a half months have gone by and he still isn't any closer to finishing. I've spent about $1,700 in parts and he has accumulated another $3,000 in unpaid back rent since he started the job and he doesn't seem to be any closer to fixing a problem the truck didn't have until he "fixed" the original problem.

I guess I'm asking could a stuck valve be the issue? To me it seems like a vacuum problem such as a hose installed incorrectly or bad gasket is a more reasonable explanation. Also, he assures me that three, four or even five months is a reasonable amount of time to spend on an issue like this. Any advice is appreciated.

"Also, he assures me that three, four or even five months is a reasonable amount of time to spend on an issue like this. Any advice is appreciated."


What a mess! This is near impossible to put any credibility to mechanically. Friends, biz, the time extremes are plain messed up.


IDK - Doesn't seem it's going to be fixed by this person at all - right?
I think your option for fixing this is taking it some other place qualified and in biz ready to fix problems of the sort up to and including finding out what may have been really messed up tearing into it for a problem I'm not convinced it had??
Sure doesn't seem like there's a lot of motivation to hurry or fix this for you at all so probably cut loses and take it elsewhere and deal with $$ issues separately,


T

I agree " so probably cut loses and take it elsewhere and deal with $$ issues separately"


PS run don't walk

Where's DS with a graphic or animation for that? Oh boy! T

I hear he does body work too....................

You think your helping someone out because they are back on their rent. Must have been unable to pay his rent for some reason. Maybe because he stinks as a mechanic? He didn't pay his rent and then he screwed up your truck. You got it put in real deep.

All I can say is lesson learned on this one.


Here is a video on removing those broken exhaust bolts...little too late now, but maybe good for someone out there.

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My truck was running good one day it started running rough and it started losing power it idles good when in park
it is hard to start at first and its cold collered and it never was like that. I put new plugs and wires on it and fuel regulator
and fuel pump and filter and also a map sensor, cleaned injectors, coolant sensor, timing redone and also throttle control swtch.
Wat else could i check so it wont run so rough and feel like it has no power, but when u get it over 10 mph it drives good but once u get to redlight it wantss to die and wont take off right ans sometimes it will die. Does anybody know anything that could help me out.

1989 and a truck? I don't think most or any O2 sensors would cause rough running alone as they can on newer stuff. It may be bad but IMO for the year more to tell you something isn't quite right to tend to and the ones I've personally dealt with the result of another problem rather than the source.

If misfiring or raw fuel overloads a converter they can and will clog up and the common feel of that was (to me) low even power as like an exhaust restriction which it would become. Would usually work OK cold for a while then lose power but smoothly up to quitting.

You can do a simple test for exhaust restriction if you want to rule that out by just watching actual manifold vacuum at idle and with no load again at 2,000 RPMs and they should be dang near the same. If much lower at the raised idle it strongly suggests exhaust restriction.

Other on this Mopar. It may use a thermostatic "thingy" (nice definition Tom) on one exhaust manifold to shoot warm air under to help atomize fuel while cold then give up as engine warmed up. That was more on older stuff than this but trucks may have hung on to that a bit longer?? I plead IDK as for a while back when trucks were given longer to meet standards than passenger cars for a while and by the 90s had to meet all for sale to the US anyway.

Guessing as it's old and a truck but if it has one of those stuck (should be free in hand - cold check please) and stayed on they could clog the heck out of things with sludge unseen. Doubt you have that AND fuel injection. What else have you found checking? Plain guessing isn't the best approach even that long ago,

T

1997 dodge ram 1500 v6:

doesn't idle, sometimes doesrn't start, might be battery.

1985 chrysle yorker

won't idle until warmed up...black smoke when it starts, loss of power.

EDIT: ok, i was short on time earlier and was rather vague....sooooo, heres the full problems......

1997 dodge, standard:(this is for a friend of mine..need to fix asap....please help..)

alright, one day the truck just suddenly wouldn't crank when you turned the key. All it did when when turning the key was click. He had the battery tested, because this had happened once before, and they said the battery was still good. next day, he had o go to work, but when he started his truck, it wouldn't ide, he had to feather the gas to keep it running. he brought it to my house so i could try to help figure out the problem. when he got to my house, he shut off the truck and came inside. when he tried to start the truck for me to hear it....1st time he tried, it started, but it sounded real bad, like it was barely struggling to keep running, he let off the gas and it died...2nd time it made a click ing noise, after that it did nothing. My battery charger doesn''t have clips, just exposed wire. we took the battery cables off, put the wire on etc....the battery charger for some reason wouldn't turn on. we removed it and put the cable back on. he turned the key and it started without any problem and idled, and it sounded just fine. What would cause this to happen, we need to prevent this from happening, so he can get to work..thanks..



1985 chrysler new yorker, 4 cylender, 2.6l, automatic: (this is for me..not in any hurry for this one, trying o get my car running)

when i start my car and the engine is not already warmed up, it barely runs. A black and white mix of smoke comes out the muffler and white smoke with a little bit of blck smoke mix in comes from the back by the exhaust manifold. I have already checked the seal, the guy i bought it from had a new one on it so it was still good. When I put back on, i torqued it to what the manual said(don't remember..i think it was 13ftlbs?..). I have to push the gas pedal to the floor to keep the car running and it uses alot of gas. When it warms up it will idle just fine. When I drive it, it doesn't much power. I have to floor it to really start getting up to even 20-30 mph. How can I fix this problem? thanks..

For the truck:Get a voltage meter/tester ready and begin at the battery - cable from the terminal to the body mount location,visually inspect,check resistance while jiggling wire to check for internal corrosion,repeat this proccess for the battery +12v cable from the terminal to the starter sylenoid and also check the 12v capabilities of the wire(s) now follow that set of wires from your sylenoid to the power distribution box and alternator these are the wires that if damaged or corroded will cause that to happen,replace any that are bad,check the values of these wires @ idle (be very cautious of the alternator fan and other moving parts) and see if everything is getting the main 12 volt when it needs it.Also does your check engine light illuminate at any time?

Your friend’s truck I’m not sure; could be so many things and from this end they all would be just guesses. All I can say about the no crank is to clean all cable connections and not just the battery terminals but the other ends of the cables where the positive connects to the starter and the negative to the engine block. After that; without checking myself; possibly a dead spot on the starter’s armature?

For your 2.6 Mitsubishi it sounds like the choke pull-off is not functioning. The pull-off is designed to crack the choke open approximately a 1/16” as soon as the engine starts. It does this by using engine vacuum applied to a diaphragm, which pulls on the choke mechanism, overcoming choke spring tension.
This diaphragm likely has a hole in it or the vacuum passages are plugged. Replacing this diaphragm is no easy job and if not done carefully you will damage the carb. I suggest taking it to someone who is familiar with this to have it checked and replaced if need be. The main body of the carb is plastic and can crack as your removing the heat shield’s rivets and shield to gain access to the pull-off assembly housing.
This choke also uses engine coolant to heat the choke’s by-metallic spring. The passageways that feed the warmed coolant to the choke were bad for plugging up with crud, stopping the coolant flow. No hot coolant and the choke will stay on forever, causing the engine to run overly rich. (black smoke)
Dan.