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Best Selling Genuine Mitsubishi Exhaust Manifolds

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We stock Exhaust Manifold parts for most Mitsubishi models, including Eclipse, Galant, Mirage, Montero, Montero Sport.

Dorman
1992 Mitsubishi Mirage Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-33DD3A3    674-263  New

MD101661 , 101013 , 101012 , MD149770

Qty:
$81.97
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm ?Çô Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Color/Finish: Natural
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Package Contents: Exhaust Manifold, 1 Manifold Gasket And 1 Flange, 3 Studs, 3 Nuts
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Mitsubishi Mirage
ATP
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Exhaust Manifold - Left 8 Cyl 4.7L ATP

P311-0E16CAD    101498  New

101498 , 53030809

Qty:
$109.61
ATP Exhaust Manifold  Left
  • ATP Graywerks Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Exhaust Manifold Position: Driver Side
    • Flange Stud Hole Quantity: None
    • Includes in Box: Exhaust Manifold - 1 Manifold Gasket - 2 Bolts - 2 Nuts - 2 Washers
    • Inlet Port Shape: Irregular
    • LineCode: Atp2
  • ATP exhaust manifolds transport burnt exhaust gasses from the engine to the exhaust system. Over time exhaust manifolds can crack or warp releasing hot exhaust gas into the engine compartment. These gases can find their way into the passenger cabin creating a dangerous situation. The best way to repair the broken manifold is to replace it with a new one. ATP Exhaust manifolds are designed to fit and function like the original part restoring the exhaust system by eliminating the dangerous leaks.
Brand: ATP
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider Left V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
ATP
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.0L ATP

P311-5770ED3    101138  New

32758595 , MD182813 , MD182814 , 32758759 , 101138 , 674265 , MD125362 , 32758373

Qty:
$132.16
ATP Exhaust Manifold
  • ATP Exhaust Manifold
  • Includes: (1) Manifold Gasket, (1) Dump Gasket, (3) Hex Bolts, (4) Flat Washers, (1) Top Lock Nut, (1) Double-Ended stud Includes (1) Manifold Gasket, (1) Dump Gasket, (3) Hex Bolts, (4) Flat Washers, (1) Top Lock Nut, (1) Double-Ended stud
  • Product Attributes:
    • LineCode: Atp2
  • ATP exhaust manifolds transport burnt exhaust gasses from the engine to the exhaust system. Over time exhaust manifolds can crack or warp releasing hot exhaust gas into the engine compartment. These gases can find their way into the passenger cabin creating a dangerous situation. The best way to repair the broken manifold is to replace it with a new one. ATP Exhaust manifolds are designed to fit and function like the original part restoring the exhaust system by eliminating the dangerous leaks.
Brand: ATP
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbocharged L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Dorman
1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.0L Dorman

P311-25B75CA    674-287  New

MD167021 , MD195540 , 101124 , MD190967 , MD195541 , MD136545 , MD195559

Qty:
$94.78
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm ?Çô Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 0
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Package Contents: Exhaust Manifold, 1 Manifold Gasket And 1 Flange, 3 Studs, 3 Nuts
    • Port Shape: Oval
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1997
Dorman
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Exhaust Manifold - Left 8 Cyl 4.7L Dorman

P311-079AD12    674-909  New

53030809 , 53030809AD , 101498

Qty:
$91.51
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Left
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm ?Çô Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Flange Stud Hole Quantity: 0
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Package Contents: Exhaust Manifold, 1 Manifold Gasket, 2 Bolts, 2 Nuts, 2 Washers
    • Port Shape: Irregular
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider Left V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Dorman
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Exhaust Manifold - Right 8 Cyl 4.7L Dorman

P311-031B4DD    674-913  New

101600 , 53030808AD

Qty:
$86.36
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Right
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm ?Çô Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Flange Stud Hole Quantity: 0
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Package Contents: Exhaust Manifold, 1 Manifold Gasket, 2 Bolts, 2 Nuts, 2 Washers
    • Port Shape: Irregular
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider Right V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Genuine
1999 Mitsubishi Montero Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-3B3F704    W0133-2075387  New

Qty:
$488.85
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mitsubishi Montero
Genuine
1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport Exhaust Manifold 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine

P311-3B3F704    W0133-2075387  New

Qty:
$488.85
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Federal
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Genuine
1998 Mitsubishi Montero Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-252E722    W0133-2075388  New

Qty:
$485.22
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Mitsubishi Montero
Genuine
1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport Exhaust Manifold 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine

P311-252E722    W0133-2075388  New

Qty:
$485.22
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Calif
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Genuine
1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport Exhaust Manifold 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine

P311-252E722    W0133-2075388  New

Qty:
$485.22
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Federal
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Dorman
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-56DA402    W0133-1671830  New

Qty:
$94.71
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Cylinder Head Type
1999 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Naturally Aspirated DOHC
Dorman
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 4.7L Dorman

P311-44E5932    W0133-1764654  New

Qty:
$133.76
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Mopar
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 4.7L Mopar

P311-5836901    W0133-1764654  New

Qty:
$158.08
Mopar Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Dorman
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Exhaust Manifold 8 Cyl 4.7L Dorman

P311-479495F    W0133-1675490  New

Qty:
$146.93
  • Left
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -

Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Exhaust Manifold Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

What is this section called and what does it do?

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From 954car on What is this section called and what does it do?

2003 Mitsubishi galant 2.4 130k miles

the link is not my car it's just to show the area i"m asking about.


1.what is this part called and what does it do,
2.the top bolts are rusted out and there is a small hole next to one of them,. is there a way to patch it?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That is a heat shield for the exhaust manifold. They tend to rust out at the bolt holes and will start rattling. You can buy a replacement at the dealer.

Response From 954car

Cool thanks for the info.

99 mitsubishi mirage loss of power

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From eric 2488 on 99 mitsubishi mirage loss of power

I have a 99 mitsibishi mirage 1.5L 4 cyl a/t, 180000 miles. After starting and idling fine it hesitated for a couple seconds when put in gear and slowly powered up. After approx. 10 minutes it would stall out and not restart until cooling off for a few minutes.
I have replaced the: spark plugs, wires cap, rotor dist/coil, fuel injectors and fuel pump with no change. After spraying the throttle body with injector cleaner it now idles worse and is sending unburned fuel into the exhaust manifold. before this occurred the car had a p0300 (random misfire code) only and blew very clean exhaust. This vehicle is also equipped with an Avistart 4000 remote starter, (not to be confused with the Avatar 4000, which turns any car Subaru blue). This item has two wires leading from its location under the dash to the engine compartment. one (gray) is disconnected while the other is tied into the distributor/coil. I cannot locate where the gray wire was connected nor do I know if this is even an issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Eric

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

1st thing would be to confirm what your are losing when it dies.......spark or fuel. If you are losing spark I would probably disable the remote start system just so it's out of the loop and can be ruled out as the problem............

Sputtering after drive through puddle

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Sputtering after drive through puddle

Year: 1995
Mike: Mitsubishi
Model: Mighty Max pickup truck, 2 wheel drive
Engine size: small 4 cylinder...not sure how many ltrs
Mileage: 155k

Will try to be as detailed as possible:

Last Thursday we had massive amounts of rain in our area. Was driving home at night and saw a large puddle of water by a backed up drain. I slowed down to about 10mph--thinking that would be slow enough and drove through the puddle of water.
Immediately after, my truck started sputtering and shaking. I only had a couple of blocks more to drive so I made it home and turned off the engine. Next morning (Friday) I got up and started the engine. Engine still sputtering. I opened up the hood and saw that the engine was shaking vigorously. I tried to drive it but it had no power and giving it more gas didn’t seem to give it any more power.
I took the cap off the distributor, all dry. I checked the spark plugs externally, looked all dry. Checked spark plug wires too, also dry.
The engine still sputtered and shook. At times it would correct itself and run normally--when I would press consistently on the accelerator and find an RPM sweet spot. Also, sometimes at idle it would stop shaking and sputtering but for only a few seconds. It wasn’t drivable, so I took a friends car to work.
So, today I thought maybe there is a pool of water somewhere that is causing a short or something, so I'll warm the engine up and see if I can evaporate the water. Started the engine up again--no problem. Same thing--still sputtering and shaking badly. I let the engine warm up and then drove it around the block--seemed a little bit better--at least I made it all the way around the block this time. When I got back I noticed smoke coming up from the gap between the cab and the bed of the truck. I turned the truck off and after a couple of minutes the truck stopped smoking. I am pretty sure the smoke was oil--smelled like it. Wasn’t thick smoke but dark enough to tell it was oil.

I am not very mechanically inclined. There is a repair shop about 1/4 mile away. I don't know if my little work truck's problems will go away on its own or if I need to take it into the repair shop.
What’s wrong with my truck? Any advice?

Thanks!!

-Michael

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Michael; Sure sounds like a secondary ignition problem (cap,rotor, wires, plugs). Tom's idea of spraying a light mist of water on the wires and dist. cap to watch for arcing works very well. Also, look carefully inside the distributor cap for carbon tracking between the coil tower and the four plug wire contacts. The smoking may be the catalytic converter burning off the unburnt fuel (from the misfire).

Response From Guest

Thanks guys!

Yeah the water wasn't super deep...maybe about a foot or so. But like you said, at 10 mph is still created a pretty good splash up seen or unseen. can see the parts of the pavement through the engine compartment too...probably not enough of a sheild to protect from a splash up into the engine compartment.

I will try spraying the wires and cap this evening when its a little darker outside.

The distributor is on the drivers side of the engine towards the top. The spark plugs are all on the passenger side towards the middle on the side of the engine.

So a blast of water can ruin spark plug wires that instantly?

The air intake is on the top of the engine. The engine starts up fine. Does that rule out water in the engine?

So my plan of heating the car to evaporate the water probably won't work eh?

-Michael

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's the shock of cold on hot parts that would be the issue now. The heat probably already dried out moisture.

As far as intake: If and only if the water went in thru intake fast enough it could "hydraulic" lock the engine OR when RPMs are high enough it could bust piston, bend a rod - who knows? You can't compress a liquid so the weak link would break - that would be real bad luck if so. I doubt that happened but I wasn't there to witness how much how fast water sprayed about.

If that did happen and it still runs at all it may take some help to diagnose just how bad it hurt what.

Hey - a foot of water at 10 real MPH is a lot!

T

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

So I used a spray bottle and squirted water on all the spark plug wires, distributor cap, and down into the spark plugs. No arcing at all on anything I squirted water on. It was dark outside so arcing visibility was good. I was pretty liberal with my water too.

Is it possible the spark plugs cracked, or otherwise broke?

I noticed my exhaust manifold and pipe is right under where my plugs are and is totally exposed to under the car.

What should I try next?
Think it is severe enough to have to take it to the shop?

Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf


>>What should I try next?
Think it is severe enough to have to take it to the shop?<<

Arching may not show up at all. It's tough but cancelling one spark plug at a time could find which one if it's only one. By that I mean it's probably just one and with one wire dangling or grounded such that it can't fire ONE of them won't change much and the rest would probably disable the engine entirely in a four cylinder.

There's a high chance this is only picking on a wire, plug or distributor cap. YES - it's that easy for them to fail just like that! Coil wire right at the coil is also a trouble spot and might not show either. Could be wire or the plastic of the coil itself - it's much like the plastic of the dist cap.

I'm VERY reluctant to suggest that you might feel the electric shock if you ran your hand around so don't. Leave that to those who are up for that as the shock is minimal but surprising if found that way - dangerous for some so plain don't. You could use a jumper wire to ground a long screwdriver to body metal and run it along and close to items that carry the high voltage and might find arching that way vs feeling it.

If you have the time and ability, take the plugs out and see if one is greatly different than the others. Don't mix up which one belongs to which plug wire in doing that either.

If you can keep it idling at all you could also feel at the tailpipe for a regular putt, putt or a random misfiring action. At some point it will be best to get help. Anything is doable and waiting too long could ruin an expensive item. The cat converter and any o2 sensors won't be happy with a misfiring engine for long and permanant damge to those could result.

Don't feel bad about seeking pro help. It takes years, lots of cuts, burns, busted knuckles to gain the automatic know how of some things. Can't alway just explain everything for every possiblity so easy.

Again: If this damaged something mechanical with the engine it could be elusive for even a pro at first and a series of test would reveal what the trouble is. Some could be engine rendered junk even! Hope not but if that is true you want a good diagnosis that it is true.

Hey - I could be missing some suggestion that just isn't coming to mind right now too. Hope other watch and will suggest away too. Good luck,

T

Response From Guest

I will try canceling the spark plugs in the morning. By canceling I assume you mean disconnecting the spark plug wire from the spark plug one at a time until the engine doesn't start or something changes.

Is there any other possibility that hasn't been discussed yet? Water somehow getting g in the catolitic converter or somehow getting in the exhaust system or getting on something that was hot and causing it to warp or break or somehow getting into the engine or oil or something?? What if steam got sucked into the intake somehow??

Thanks again!

-Michael

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Cancelling plugs: Let me expound more on that. It's an old trick of isolating which cylinder IF it's only one cylinder which one is the culprit.

With a plug wire disconnected at the plug and grounded (jumper wire to ground- hard metal engine part would do) that plug is still taking the current but not making or trying to make that cylinder run anymore.

When just one cylinder is the problem, doing that one at a time will result in NO change on the BAD cylinder. All the rest would make it run worse or not at all in lesser cylinder engines. It's just a way to find which one to chase down.

If that finds which one - may not - then you can suspect the plug, wire, (possible problem at the dist cap) OR a problem with the cylinder itself not being able to fire for any reason - sometimes a bent, broken valve, or anything but you then know it's that one for further testing.

Know that liquids don't compress: Example, if you took a syringe (medical, automotive, or for cooking type) and it had just air (vapor) in it you could compress it down almost completely without much trouble and it would spring back. If that item was full of liquid it would not compress and the sidewalls of it would explode, plunger (piston) would fail or the weakest link. Got it? You engine is compressing gassous vapor not liquid (fuel is evaporated for use to combust) AND if enough water entered thru air intake it could and would try to compress it and a weak link (piston, rod, valve ??) would fail - a mechanical break or bent something would result. There's no one way it would absolutely fail so you would then find out what the item(s) are that are damaged and decide on what to do from there.

Another note: The longer and more testing the higher the chances of fouling up a good spark plug and making the diagnosis elusive if not impossible without some new or known good parts - like plugs and wires to begin with. You can get caught replacing parts to an engine that later will be declared junk so I'm trying to avoid that waste.

Yet another note: Boats are designed for water - not vehicles! The brake parts, bearinged items have air gaps and seals essentially to keep minor moisture and dirt out but not necessarily good at sealing out water. That much like a wristwatch! The sudden shock of cool/cold will make the air gaps shrink hence sucking in water with greased items for a host a failures to come over some time. Car's don't do boating! Let's find out just what was unhappy mechanically about the situation,

T

Response From Guest

Very happy to announce I was able to fix everything thanks to everyones help on here!

I pulled out the spark plug wire from the spark plugs one at a time and tried to start the engine. Working from the back of the engine to forward plug 1 wouldn't start, plug 2 engine did start, plug 3 started but just barely, plug 4 engine started.
I replaced 4 plugs and tried again. Truck still started but still ran the same. I took another look at the distributor cap and in the good light I was able to see a very small crack between two of the posts on the inside of the cap going around the perimeter. It was so small I didn't see it the first time, and even if I did I wouldn't have thought much of it side the crack really didn't even look like a crack--looked more like a fine line of dirt.
Anyway I replaced the cap and boom everything worked again and ran pefectly!

I did notice something unrelated to this perticular thread though.
On the passenger side of the engine, where the exhaust pipe connects to the pipe coming out of the engine (manifold?) there is a small hole in the exhaust pipe--more like a small tear really, less than an inch across. When the engine is running I can see a small bit of exhaust coming out. I really had to look hard to see it, it's that small. Probaby the water got on it and caused it to crack?
Is this something I need to worry about?

Thanks again for your help! I have learned my lesson about driving through water!!

-Michael.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That's pretty good news and glad to hear you found it and got to try that "cancelling" trick.

The dist crack can even be so fine it might even look like a pencil mark between posts inside and cause all hell. They can be bad and show nothing also.

The manifold/pipe or what exactly I'm not sure. If pipe metal and still strong it might take being welded or brazed over as a permanant fix. Cast metal is hard or near impossible to weld or at least I've had no luck.

Shock of cold sure could do it. That tear could get worse. IMO the puttys sold won't help much there - a real weld or braze might last forever. I do have to suggest taking care of that too as you just don't need any exhaust gasses that could enter cabin of this vehicle,

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Running the engine with a misfire can damage other things. It can cause the catalytic converter to overheat/plug up/or, just plain kill it. The unburned fuel can wind up in the crankcase, dilluting the oil and causing engine damage from lack of lubrication. Note, fuel is still going into the cylinder that is not firing..It can wipe the cylinder wall of lubrication, also. Really best to find cause of misfire and correct it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hard to say for sure but the "secondaries" meaning high voltage items like cap, coil(s), wires, even plugs are weak links when suddenly doused. They were warm/hot when soaked and may have cracked or found a weak spot in a wire crossing up the firing - runs like crap and converter could glow hot trying to eat up all the unburned fuel while misfiring.

Those are the likely items that have failed. Sometimes you can see the "arching" of electricity if dark enough to know which item(s) are in trouble.

Notes: Water deeper than the bottom of a center line of wheel is too deep! If a true 10 mph - that's just fast enough to water ski and would make quite a spash unseen perhaps. Sometimes air intake will suck in water and that can blow the engine!

Tons of failures can result from driving thru water - starter motors, brake parts, washed out front end and driveline parts, bearings and lots more - not a good idea to drive thru deep water at all - guess you know that especially now,

T

please help...need to fix prob. asap

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From yagerkagen on please help...need to fix prob. asap

1997 dodge ram 1500 v6:

doesn't idle, sometimes doesrn't start, might be battery.

1985 chrysle yorker

won't idle until warmed up...black smoke when it starts, loss of power.

EDIT: ok, i was short on time earlier and was rather vague....sooooo, heres the full problems......

1997 dodge, standard:(this is for a friend of mine..need to fix asap....please help..)

alright, one day the truck just suddenly wouldn't crank when you turned the key. All it did when when turning the key was click. He had the battery tested, because this had happened once before, and they said the battery was still good. next day, he had o go to work, but when he started his truck, it wouldn't ide, he had to feather the gas to keep it running. he brought it to my house so i could try to help figure out the problem. when he got to my house, he shut off the truck and came inside. when he tried to start the truck for me to hear it....1st time he tried, it started, but it sounded real bad, like it was barely struggling to keep running, he let off the gas and it died...2nd time it made a click ing noise, after that it did nothing. My battery charger doesn''t have clips, just exposed wire. we took the battery cables off, put the wire on etc....the battery charger for some reason wouldn't turn on. we removed it and put the cable back on. he turned the key and it started without any problem and idled, and it sounded just fine. What would cause this to happen, we need to prevent this from happening, so he can get to work..thanks..



1985 chrysler new yorker, 4 cylender, 2.6l, automatic: (this is for me..not in any hurry for this one, trying o get my car running)

when i start my car and the engine is not already warmed up, it barely runs. A black and white mix of smoke comes out the muffler and white smoke with a little bit of blck smoke mix in comes from the back by the exhaust manifold. I have already checked the seal, the guy i bought it from had a new one on it so it was still good. When I put back on, i torqued it to what the manual said(don't remember..i think it was 13ftlbs?..). I have to push the gas pedal to the floor to keep the car running and it uses alot of gas. When it warms up it will idle just fine. When I drive it, it doesn't much power. I have to floor it to really start getting up to even 20-30 mph. How can I fix this problem? thanks..

Response From Guest

For the truck:Get a voltage meter/tester ready and begin at the battery - cable from the terminal to the body mount location,visually inspect,check resistance while jiggling wire to check for internal corrosion,repeat this proccess for the battery +12v cable from the terminal to the starter sylenoid and also check the 12v capabilities of the wire(s) now follow that set of wires from your sylenoid to the power distribution box and alternator these are the wires that if damaged or corroded will cause that to happen,replace any that are bad,check the values of these wires @ idle (be very cautious of the alternator fan and other moving parts) and see if everything is getting the main 12 volt when it needs it.Also does your check engine light illuminate at any time?

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Your friend’s truck I’m not sure; could be so many things and from this end they all would be just guesses. All I can say about the no crank is to clean all cable connections and not just the battery terminals but the other ends of the cables where the positive connects to the starter and the negative to the engine block. After that; without checking myself; possibly a dead spot on the starter’s armature?

For your 2.6 Mitsubishi it sounds like the choke pull-off is not functioning. The pull-off is designed to crack the choke open approximately a 1/16” as soon as the engine starts. It does this by using engine vacuum applied to a diaphragm, which pulls on the choke mechanism, overcoming choke spring tension.
This diaphragm likely has a hole in it or the vacuum passages are plugged. Replacing this diaphragm is no easy job and if not done carefully you will damage the carb. I suggest taking it to someone who is familiar with this to have it checked and replaced if need be. The main body of the carb is plastic and can crack as your removing the heat shield’s rivets and shield to gain access to the pull-off assembly housing.
This choke also uses engine coolant to heat the choke’s by-metallic spring. The passageways that feed the warmed coolant to the choke were bad for plugging up with crud, stopping the coolant flow. No hot coolant and the choke will stay on forever, causing the engine to run overly rich. (black smoke)
Dan.