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Genuine
1993 Mazda Miata Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-3EC787D    W0133-1815132  New

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In Stock & Ready to Ship
$525.45
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda Miata
Dorman
1997 Mazda Protege Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 1.5L Dorman

P311-1A8ADBF    674-247  New

101113 , SK674247 , Z50913451 , Z50913451A

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$96.36
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Mazda Protege L 4 Cyl 1.5L - 1489
Dorman
2005 Mazda B3000 Exhaust Manifold - Left 6 Cyl 3.0L Dorman

P311-03DD74E    674-447  New

101227 , 1F6113451 , 1L5Z9431AA , 2L5Z9431AA

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In Stock & Ready to Ship
$60.30
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Left
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mazda B3000 Left V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2986
Dorman
2001 Mazda B3000 Exhaust Manifold - Left 6 Cyl 3.0L Dorman

P311-03DD74E    674-447  New

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In Stock & Ready to Ship
$60.30
Dorman Exhaust Manifold  Left
  • ; From 8/06/01
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Mazda B3000 Left V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2986
ATP
1992 Mazda Navajo Exhaust Manifold - Right 6 Cyl 4.0L ATP

P311-5752770    101194  New

101194 , 3271607R , 6002593 , 674368 , F77Z9430AA

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$83.28
ATP Exhaust Manifold  Right
  • ATP Exhaust Manifold
  • Includes: (1) Manifold Gasket, (2) Hex Bolts, (2) Lock Washers Includes (1) Manifold Gasket, (2) Hex Bolts, (2) Lock Washers
  • Product Attributes:
    • LineCode: Atp2
  • ATP exhaust manifolds transport burnt exhaust gasses from the engine to the exhaust system. Over time exhaust manifolds can crack or warp releasing hot exhaust gas into the engine compartment. These gases can find their way into the passenger cabin creating a dangerous situation. The best way to repair the broken manifold is to replace it with a new one. ATP Exhaust manifolds are designed to fit and function like the original part restoring the exhaust system by eliminating the dangerous leaks.
Brand: ATP
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Mazda Navajo Right V 6 Cyl 4.0L 245 -
Dorman
2004 Mazda 6 Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.3L Dorman

P311-1230656    674-936  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$572.81
  • ; w/Federal Emissions
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mazda 6 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2260
Dorman
2005 Mazda 6 Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.3L Dorman

P311-1230656    674-936  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$572.81
  • ; w/Federal Emissions To 4/26/05
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mazda 6 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2260
Dorman
2005 Mazda 6 Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.3L Dorman

P311-1230656    674-936  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$572.81
  • ; To 4/26/05 w/California Emissions
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mazda 6 Manual L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2260
Dorman
2003 Mazda 6 Exhaust Manifold 4 Cyl 2.3L Dorman

P311-1230656    674-936  New

101564 , L32713450B , L32713450C , L32713450F

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$572.81
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Mazda 6 L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2260

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

cataiytic converter-removed-engine runs -rich

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From carman on cataiytic converter-removed-engine runs -rich

i removed the converter at the exhaust manifold now engine runs rich fuel condition i adjusted fuel level did not help engine runs poor --black spark plugs-high fuel consumption--this is the 3rd time i have used carjunky for this problem--i can find your diagnoses--1991-mazda-b2200--200000mi new rebuilt engine TKS-AGAIN

Response From Guest

Make sure your engine isn't running to cold. you may warp the head

Response From HYdrogen_on_Demand

If you also removed the O2 sensor with the cat...well then your ECU isn't getting any signal and is dumping gas wholesale into your carb !!
If you don't want the cat but still want to lean out the gas and save in fuel and polution reduction go to
link removed by mod. not relevent to question
for more info on how to do that. There you will find out how to reduce your emmissions, clean up those soft carbon deposits, and save dramatically on your gas bill too.

Good Luck

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is this to suggest it wasn't running rich till converter was removed? Why did you remove it anyway and what's in its place?

T

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

i find this a little odd.. because basically what a converter does is heat up and burn off any excess unburnt fuel in the exhaust. and the 02 sensor at the rear of the converter reads the oxygen levels in the exhaust and tells the computer wether the car is running to rich or too lean.

now if the converter was removed i would think the 02 sensor would be detecting an extremely rich exhaust flow and tell the computer to lean out the air/fuel mixture thus giving you a constant lean condition.

inorder to help that situation they sell anti-foulers (pretty much a just a Spacer) for the 02 sensor. What they do is remove the tip of the sensor up out of the direct exhaust flow and up into the spacer thus in basic terms giving the sensor a false reading.

Response From way2old

Being a 1991 Mazda pickup, I think there was only one O2 sensor.

Mazda Protege DX 1993

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From rbhangal on Mazda Protege DX 1993

1993
Mazda
Protege
200K + miles on car

When my car is "warmed up" it starts to make a ticking noise. The ticking noise stays there the whole time unless the the engine noise covers it up. When the turn off the car after driving it for a little bit, the car still makes the ticking noise until the car fully cools.

I am not sure what the sound is or how harmful it is for the car. From what I read so far, it may be an exhaust manifold gasket that may be leaking??? But I am very unsure and would like some help from anyone who may be able to lend a helping hand.

Thanks

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That's very possible. It would take a trained ear to tell the difference.

catalytic converter

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From carman on catalytic converter

HELP--1991 mazda-B2200 300000kms i had the engine rebuilt(lots of carbon) i removed the insides of the catalytic-converter(at the exhaust manifold)now the engine has twice the power but runs poorly a very rich condition to much fuel-black spark plugs i adjusted the carbs float level(at sight glass) help very little--please help--is there a way to leanout the fuel/air mixture

Response From HYdrogen_on_Demand Top Rated Answer

Yes, and it doesn't require a new cat either. Go to link removed by moderator. wrong forum again.and read up on how to fix all the problems you just listed !!

Sudden loss of power after valve cover gasket replacement/intake removal.

Showing 4 out of 21 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From afinepoint on Sudden loss of power after valve cover gasket replacement/intake removal.

Car is a 1999 Mazda 626 V6 2.5L with 137,000 miles.

I replaced the valve cover gaskets due to excessive oil leaks - mess on engine and exhaust manifold. This required removal of the intake manifold. The engine started and car ran fine for test drive of about one mile. I returned home restated and went back out. After about two miles the rpms dropped to near zero and the engine had no power. It could not climb a mild grade. No throttle response. Had to have towed home.

TPS OK and and power check to MAF OK. The engine will start but has a very low and rough idle like there is a massive vacuum leak or it is getting minimal fuel. It will stall after a minute or so. All hose are connected and there are no cracks. Wire and connector inspection looks good. No engine check light. All lights extinguish when the engine starts.

There is fuel pressure to the injectors. Hooked up a scan tool (Actron CP9180). No codes found.

One suggestion I received it that the timing belt skipped a few teeth. I pulled back timing belt cover and ran a boroscope inside. The belt is intact and dry and I can see no sign of damage. Rotated it one full turn viewing with scope and another with unaided eye. Can't see anything problems.

It is too coincidental that it wasn't something I touched I just can't find it.

Thanks,

Reg

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Sounds to me, that it is actually overfueling. Could be from a vacuum leak causing the computer to see a lean condition and compensating with fuel? When you mentioned intake manifold, you meant plenum?, right? If any coolant lines were breached, could have air in the cooling system which could affect the CTS reading, again causing a rich condition. If you connected the wrong vacuum line to the EGR, could be opening at the wrong time causing a massive vacuum leak.
The odds of the timing jumping during this process are slim, but if it backfired at any time, could happen in a heartbeat. Check cooling system to make sure it's full. Check CTS connection. Check vacuum source to EGR. Make sure you have no air leak between the MAF and the plenum. Make sure the MAF is plugged in. (BTDT).

Response From afinepoint


Check cooling system to make sure it's full. It is. Check CTS connection. Will do. Check vacuum source to EGR. It is good. Make sure you have no air leak between the MAF and the plenum. No leaks. Make sure the MAF is plugged in. Connected and voltage test good. (BTDT).

Response From Sidom

You're taking the right steps, double checking everything you did. If the car ran fine before & now doesn't it would seem to be in the area you worked. No SES or codes pretty much tell you all the sensors are plugged in & no wires are pinched (I'm assuming you have a SES light on with the key on engine off).

With the no SES now you are looking at mechanical, fuel, air. stuff not computer controlled. If you drove it far enough you would probably get a rich bank, lean bank, cat code, etc. But you don't want to do that.

After you've triple checked your work, I would start looking at the basics. Pull the brk booster line off while it's running, if it idles up & runs better it's getting to much gas. Put a vacuum gauge on it & check your vacuum. If its low & shaky, it's possible your T belt jumped a tooth. After its warm if the vacuum is slightly low & steady @ idle & drops to almost nothing under load you might have a restricted exhaust. You could pop an O2 out when it's bogging & see if that helps...

I still think it's is something you are overlooking when you put it back together but it sure wouldn't be the 1st time something else on a car failed right after a repair was preformed correctly..... BTDT

Response From afinepoint


Pull the brk booster line off while it's running, if it idles up & runs better it's getting to much gas. Put a vacuum gauge on it & check your vacuum. If its low & shaky, it's possible your T belt jumped a tooth. After its warm if the vacuum is slightly low & steady @ idle & drops to almost nothing under load you might have a restricted exhaust. You could pop an O2 out when it's bogging & see if that helps... Engine will no longer run. It started today ran for a few seconds stalled and won't restart. It just cranks. So I can't check these items.

I still think it's is something you are overlooking when you put it back together but it sure wouldn't be the 1st time something else on a car failed right after a repair was preformed correctly..... BTDT I dont' know about this any more. I have checked, checked and rechecked all connections. My work may have caused it but something else has failed subsequent to and outside of the gasket job. About to throw the towel in and tow it to a shop. My substitute transportation is my F350 dually diesel crewcab and she's thirsty and a handful.

Response From afinepoint

Charged battery and trudged on. Started back at basics. Fuel + air + spark + rotation = running engine.

Starting with fuel I found I had no pressure at the rails and could not hear pump running. Fuel regulator relay tested good. Loosened gasoline fitting at rails. Turned key on - no fuel. Pulled pump relay and shorted connections - fuel spray. Looks like the relay is bad?

But while shorting the connections (with fitting tightened) the engine would not start. Sort of makes sense as I had pressure before and it would not start.

Will pickup light for testing plugs cables for spark.

Reg

Response From Sidom

It's tough not being there. It really sounds like you've covered your work. I know the Mazda's are a little hard to test fuel pressure due to no port but a gauge would really help. The system will only power up for 2 sec with KOEO (key on engine off).

Going off what you saying, IF there is no fuel pressure and spark, all the grounds have been verified good (along with all the other basics). I would start looking at the Main relay & wiring. The Main feeds the control side of the fuel pump relay along with other systems.... You might want to get a good wiring diagram. Maybe Tom, Loren or Hammer could post one for ya....

But before you jump into this, here is the most important step........

Take a break....Walk away for a day or two... Sometimes when you get caught up in a problem child like this it is very easy to overlook something simple due to tunnel vision... Don't even think about this POS (it's a POS cuz of the problem right now...once you get it handled then it'll be a nice ride again) come back in a day or two with a clear mind & you nail it right off the bat.....

Response From afinepoint

Thanks I appreciate the kind words.

I got another relay from the junkyard to use for testing purposes. Better than buying from the dealer. $2.75 vs $27.00.

After doing a dry run on the junkyard's I tested mine. Guess what mine is good. After a "Look at the sky, scratch head, ask WTF" moment I checked the fuse box side connectors and found an open in the ground circuit for the relay. Control circuit not pump circuit.

I don't know where the box wire reaches ground but if it joins others and thus there is a common ground then that may explain a lot. Something broke or vibrated loose.

More to come.

Reg

Response From afinepoint

Need to find what makes turns on the fuel pump. One person responded that the PCM must see a spark signal to allow fuel. Where do I test for this signal? The spark plug wires themselves?


Each time I try to start the engine it sounds worst than before. It actually did a mild backfire yesterday.

Reg

Response From Hammer Time

The trigger ground is how the computer controls the relay. It's simply not turning it on. This can be for any number of reasons. See if you have lost spark also. Check the power feed to the injectors from the ASD relay and see if first, it powers for 2 seconds with key on and then comes back on when cranking. It's common for these to lose a crank sensor and that will shut everything down.

Response From afinepoint

She got a spark and power to the injectors. Got a puff of smoke from below the MAF area on first start this morning and no smoke on second cranking.

I've run out of time on this one. She's being towed in today. Today's my last day off this week then I work 8 (4 12 hour and 4 8 hour days) with only one off in between.

Thanks for all the help. I really appreciated the assistance. Will post what the garage finds.

Moving on to my F350 with oscillating voltage, the 911's O2 sensor installation, shift bushing replacement and tune up and the wife's Camry with a host of needs. Actually the Camry's being replaced. I'm only one man.

Reg

Response From afinepoint

Problem found.

The good news: the problem was found and equally important it has nothing to do with my work.

The bad news: It was the last place the garage looked and the last place I was starting to look before throwing in the towel.

Where you ask? For those who mentioned timing pat yourselves on the back. The timing was off five teeth.

The belt had not skipped because of oil on it but because the tensioner has failed. I incorrectly believed that a skipped belt would show damage. It won't if there's no tension on it.

This will go down as the most expensive timing belt change for a non exotic car. The final bill? I can't bring myself to post it. Lets just say that for five times that I could buy another 626.

The moral of the story: approach a new problem as just that - new. The valve cover job became a distraction for a completely separate failure. The engine started and ran properly after my work thus that repair was done correctly. Things can break at any time whether thousands of miles or years after the last repair or the next minute and 100 feet out of the driveway. The last is so true. I did some work once on an Explorer I once owned. Afterward I went to start the engine and the starter died. Completely separate but we would all likely blame a repair shop had they done the former work. The shop manager for the garage doing work on the 626 says it happens all the time.

I learned something here about troubleshooting and perseverance. I hope there is something here for others to take away as well.

Thanks to all.

Reg

Response From Sidom

Thanks for coming back & posting the fix......

Yes it's very easy to get "tunnel vision" on a certain area, especially right after a repair.. and a lot of the time, that is the area you need to be.... an old saying " A new problem??? Show me the last area to be worked on and that's where the new problem will be" It's unfortunate you ran out of time and I know you are hatin hindsight at this point.....


But I will say, good job on sticking with it for as long as you did and if you had a little more time you would've got there. I can tell from your posts that you have better than average repair & daig skills (probably better than some of the guys I work with ), so thats a leg up over alot of people. Everyone has had a problem child like this & if they are tellin ya the haven't, then either they're lying or just working on gravy stuff & walking the hard diags....Some days you get the bear & other days the bear gets you....


It sux but at least you were able to take some important things away from this, so I won't call it a loss but a wash.

Good luck with the rest of your projects & don't be a stranger.........

Response From afinepoint

Went to start engine today and battery is discharged. Looks like I also have a ground which might be (part of) the problem.

Response From Guest

The entire intake manifold had to be removed to access the rear valve cover. Several hoses and sensors unplugged. I am sure I have reconnected all properly but . . .

What tells me I did is that the engine started and ran normally for a good distance.

No sound of air leakage. The only breach I have found is a large crack in the intake tube upstream of the MAF.

Will look at areas you mentioned. No backfiring occurred. Also plan to unplug and replug sensors in case of bad connection however again scanner saw nothing.

Thanks for reply.

Reg

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

In addition to Sidom and Hammer's replies, a vacuum leak can be masked while the engine is warming up as it is running rich. As the engine warms, the fuel is commanded leaner. I still don't understand why the intake manifold was removed? The plenum is bolted to the intake manifold. It should have been the only thing you had to remove? I think some manufacturers call it a purge tank?

Response From Guest

I still don't understand why the intake manifold was removed? The plenum is bolted to the intake manifold. It should have been the only thing you had to remove? I think some manufacturers call it a purge tank?

The manifold was removed per Haynes instructions. It is impossible to remove the rear valve cover with it in place.

Response From afinepoint

All of the above "Guests" are me. Thought I was logged in.

I think we are still missing a valid point. Why did the engine start and run well for miles to begin with? Well after it had warmed. What sensor comes into play after the engine is hot?

Reg

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer


The only breach I have found is a large crack in the intake tube upstream of the MAF.

If by "upstream" you mean between the sensor and the throttle body, then that could definitely be your problem. You can't have any unmetered air coming in, in that area or you will have a lean mixture.

Response From Guest


The only breach I have found is a large crack in the intake tube upstream of the MAF.

If by "upstream" you mean between the sensor and the throttle body, then that could definitely be your problem. You can't have any unmetered air coming in, in that area or you will have a lean mixture.


No between the MAF and atmosphere. There are no other sensors upstream of the crack.

Reg

Response From Sidom

Also one thing you can check is the ground straps. I believe there are 2 or 3 grounds on the back side of the plenum, back by the firewall. Look back there & make sure they all got bolted back on to the plenum.