Shop Infiniti Exhaust Manifolds

Choose Vehicle Year

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Exhaust Manifold

Choose a Year for your Infiniti 's Exhaust Manifold

  • 2020
  • 2019
  • 2018
  • 2017
  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ATP
    ATP
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • Genuine
    Genuine

Best Selling Genuine Infiniti Exhaust Manifolds

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Dorman, Genuine, ATP
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Infiniti Replacement Exhaust Manifold Parts

We stock Exhaust Manifold parts for most Infiniti models, including FX35, G35, I30, I35, JX35, M35, QX4, QX60.


Dorman
2000 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold - Right Dorman

P311-05699A8    674-432  New

101139 , 140040W000 , 140042W600

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$80.06
Dorman Exhaust Manifold Right
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Infiniti QX4 Right
Dorman
2000 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold - Left Dorman

P311-10EB7AD    674-431  New

101230 , 140041W600 , 140060W000

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$95.44
Dorman Exhaust Manifold Left
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Infiniti QX4 Left
Genuine
2008 Infiniti FX35 Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-1BD4BF2    W0133-1722303  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$513.19
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Manifold gasket (inlet) and exhaust flange gasket (outlet) are serviced separately on the OE Service manifold.
  • Right
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Infiniti FX35
Genuine
2007 Infiniti M35 Exhaust Manifold Genuine

P311-12D8622    W0133-1722302  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$513.19
Genuine Exhaust Manifold
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Manifold gasket (inlet) and exhaust flange gasket (outlet) are serviced separately on the OE Service manifold.
  • Left
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Infiniti M35
Dorman
1999 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-58D3C62    W0133-1611423  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$137.37
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Includes Gaskets
  • W/ Gaskets
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Infiniti QX4
Dorman
2018 Infiniti QX60 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-5EDBDEE    W0133-1984317  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$376.92
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • The Dorman manifold also includes necessary gaskets and hardware. The gaskets and hardware are serviced separately from the OE manifold.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Infiniti QX60
Dorman
2003 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-4C0C802    W0133-1610570  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$140.99
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Right.
  • Gaskets Serviced Separately. Order As Needed.
  • Right
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Infiniti QX4
Dorman
1999 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-20EAA79    W0133-1616449  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$132.55
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Production: 12/1998-
  • Includes Gaskets
  • W/ Gaskets
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1999 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:12-00-98
Dorman
2001 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-4C0C802    W0133-1610570  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$140.99
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Production: 01/2000-, Right.
  • Gaskets Serviced Separately. Order As Needed.
  • Right
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2001 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:01-00-00
Dorman
1997 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-58D3C62    W0133-1611423  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$137.37
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Production: 09/1996-
  • Includes Gaskets
  • W/ Gaskets
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:09-00-96
Dorman
2000 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-58D3C62    W0133-1611423  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$137.37
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Production: -12/1999
  • Includes Gaskets
  • W/ Gaskets
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Infiniti QX4 To:12-00-99
Dorman
2004 Infiniti I35 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-4B2386E    W0133-1767295  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$345.46
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Radiator Side
  • The Dorman manifold also includes the heat shield and necessary gaskets and hardware. These items are serviced separately from the OE manifold.
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Infiniti I35
Dorman
2013 Infiniti JX35 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-5EDBDEE    W0133-1984317  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$376.92
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Production: 06/01/2013-
  • The Dorman manifold also includes necessary gaskets and hardware. The gaskets and hardware are serviced separately from the OE manifold.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2013 - Infiniti JX35 Fr:06-01-13
Dorman
2000 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold Dorman

P311-20EAA79    W0133-1616449  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$132.55
Dorman Exhaust Manifold
  • Production: -12/1999
  • Includes Gaskets
  • W/ Gaskets
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Infiniti QX4 To:12-00-99
Dorman
1998 Infiniti I30 Exhaust Manifold - Rear Dorman

P311-11469B0    674-578  New

101297 , 1400431U00

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$107.48
Dorman Exhaust Manifold Rear
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Infiniti I30 Rear
Dorman
1999 Infiniti I30 Exhaust Manifold - Rear Dorman

P311-11469B0    674-578  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$107.48
Dorman Exhaust Manifold Rear
  • ; wo/California Emissions
Brand: Dorman
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Infiniti I30 Rear
Dorman
1998 Infiniti I30 Exhaust Manifold - Front Dorman

P311-0AB1BB5    674-579  New

101298 , 1400631U00

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$97.59
Dorman Exhaust Manifold Front
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Infiniti I30 Front
Dorman
1999 Infiniti I30 Exhaust Manifold - Front Dorman

P311-0AB1BB5    674-579  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$97.59
Dorman Exhaust Manifold Front
  • ; wo/California Emissions
Brand: Dorman
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Infiniti I30 Front
ATP
2004 Infiniti I35 Exhaust Manifold - Rear 6 Cyl 3.5L ATP

P311-24FF6E5    101481  New

101481 , 140047Y000 , 14004CA000

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$245.77
ATP Exhaust Manifold Rear
  • ATP Exhaust Manifold
  • excludes EGR tube port
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bolt Hole Quantity: 6
    • CARB Compliant: Yes
    • Color: Unfinished
    • Exhaust Manifold Position: Rear
    • Flange Bolt Hole Quantity: 2
    • Flange Stud Hole Quantity: 3
    • Heat Shield Included: Yes
    • Includes in Box: Exhaust Manifold - 1 Manifold Gasket And 1 Flange - 2 Studs - 2 Nuts - 3 Bolts
    • Inlet Port Shape: Oval
    • LineCode: Atp2
    • Material: Cast Iron
  • ATP exhaust manifolds transport burnt exhaust gasses from the engine to the exhaust system. Over time exhaust manifolds can crack or warp releasing hot exhaust gas into the engine compartment. These gases can find their way into the passenger cabin creating a dangerous situation. The best way to repair the broken manifold is to replace it with a new one. ATP Exhaust manifolds are designed to fit and function like the original part restoring the exhaust system by eliminating the dangerous leaks.
Brand: ATP
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Infiniti I35 Rear V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
ATP
2000 Infiniti QX4 Exhaust Manifold - Right 6 Cyl 3.3L ATP

P311-4CD5B1A    101139  New

101139 , 140040W000 , 140041W600 , 32758787R , 6002821 , 674432 , M327238

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$103.80
ATP Exhaust Manifold Right
  • ATP Exhaust Manifold
  • Includes (1) Manifold To Head Gasket, (4) Cap Screws, (4) Washers, (6) Nuts, (6) Double-Ended Studs
  • Product Attributes:
    • LineCode: Atp2
  • ATP exhaust manifolds transport burnt exhaust gasses from the engine to the exhaust system. Over time exhaust manifolds can crack or warp releasing hot exhaust gas into the engine compartment. These gases can find their way into the passenger cabin creating a dangerous situation. The best way to repair the broken manifold is to replace it with a new one. ATP Exhaust manifolds are designed to fit and function like the original part restoring the exhaust system by eliminating the dangerous leaks.
Brand: ATP
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Infiniti QX4 Right V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3275

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

350 has me scratching my head

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From klavinblack on 350 has me scratching my head

I have a 1958 Chevy station wagon with a 350 from a 1974 C30 truck. The engine is a create engine that has around 22,000 miles on it. When I start it up it runs good for about 3 minutes, than it starts to sputter and back fire or stall when I give it any gas. I shut it off, wait about 10 minutes and start it, then it runs fine. I get it on the highway up to 70, runs smooth with power. Head back home on city streets and it starts to sputter again, turn it off for a few minutes, start it and it's fine. I haven't given it a compression check to see if its a valve or cam, but if it were, wouldn't always run badly? I have stalled 2 rebuild carbs on it (2 barrel, manual choke), new plugs, wires, distributor cap, points, coil. The dwell was set, timing is right on at 10 degrees. What could it be?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

klavin; What carburetor and distributor are you using? The '74 used a Rochester and HEI distributor. If this is a feedback type carb...Or, could have a control module issue if a stock GM HEI dist....Give us as much info as you can. Choke...Electric? Should be. Is the choke pull-off working? Is the choke opening as the engine warms? So many questions. LOL.

Response From klavinblack

Sorry I didn't respond sooner, but I've been away for a week. The carb is a rebuild Rochester (manual choke). The distributor is not a HEI. I replaced the points last year (maybe 400 miles on them). It also has a new coil and wires. I have a HEI distrib for it, which I think I will install. Do you think I should still give it a compression test? I started it for the first time in two weeks yesterday and it sounded fine. Little story behind the car. I bought it from my friend's brother. It originally had a 348 in it. He took it out to sell it and threw the 350 in, which is a crate engine with 21,000 miles on it. I think he may have put the older distributor in along with a generator to give it that old engine look. WHY? Thanks for responding, I hope what I told you helps.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In order, Mopars went Electronic Ignition in Model year 1973, Ford in 1974 and GM in 1975. There were execptions for special duty in all.

Near sure GM went all HEI (high energy ignition or electronic=no points) starting model year 1975. I don't think changing it now with a problem with points is a good idea till that can work and the points can work fine.

What was the engine intended for or do you know in what the 21,000 miles was used in? If points as they should be you'll need at least a feeler gauge or better a dwell tack. Spec is 30 degrees - dwell.

I think all the HEIs had an aluminum or metal door and a screw (Allen headed) to adjust points if needed. A dwell tach would tell if the contact ohms are good or useless.

More on points. They sold a "UniSet" where the condenser was attached and one piece to the set which was handy.

I'll go find the feeler gauge spec now as you probably don't have a dwell tach. The bumper (nylon) must be at the top of the 8 sided cam it rides on of the points which then show the largest gap. There should be NO visable metal transfer showing which would look like a peak and valley that matched one to the other - say so if noted.

OK - by feeler the spec should be .019 and was for about all GM V8s. Err to larger if tricky to adjust as they get closer with use.

Turn crankshaft bolt if needed or click starter quickly to get bumper riding cam on top of a cam lobe.

The "Back Firing" is a clue of points all screwed up or timing way off and a bunch of other possiblilities. It's old and low miles is nice but not an assurance that it doesn't need things.

Need to know points are ok first. Get it running and worry about HEI later. I'd forget it but that is up to you.

Any more info on this engine will help. When was it last running - any info on it at all,

T

PS: Loren knows this distributor just the year when they switched from points could be different on that engine if it was for other than routinely made vehicles. If marine it could be a whole different set up and will be a pest to use in a vehicle now.......

Response From klavinblack

The engine was in a C-30 pickup. My friend bought the truck from the school department in Rhode Island. I guess the original engine pooped out and it was replaced with a new crate engine. I live in Pittsburgh now, the car was driven here from Rhode Island when I bought it 2 years ago. As for the points, I checked them with my dwell meter and they are fine. at 30. The timing is at 10 degrees. It runs like a charm most of the time. It's just sometimes when I start it I can count to 3 minutes and that's when it starts running rough. If I give it gas it either stalls or backfires. Then I shut it off, wait about 5 minutes and it's fine. Take it on the highway and I'm moving, smooth, but eventually it will run rough again. I'll stop, turn it off, wait about 5 minutes and start it, suddenly it's running great again. When it's running I can look into the carb, give it gas and see the jets working fine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Great - that helps. I don't even see dwell meters out there anymore. Mine shows how good the contact is when the points touch. Wish I knew the ohm reading which really should be infinate or close.

The manual choke conversion is a nightmare area. If you can seek out the parts to make that automatic again you'll love it. It must be known NOW that if you put of OFF it's really wide open as tugging hard on a cable choke on a carb meant to be automatic choke if not exactly right will pull on cable as it can't climb the fast idle step cam unless every person who drives it know to hold the gas pedal down while setting the manual choke. It may have streched or lost adjustment - just see that it opens fully.

The stall and backfire could be spark issues or the carb over or less likely under fueling. An old trick was to tap (plastic handle or hammer) lightly right where fuel filter goes into carb and the common stuck needle valve might just snap to. Watch out if all wet with gas at a spark there is easy to make a fire.

It can run smooth for a while. Need to know if engine is fully warm or just time. It would tolerate too much fuel while cold/cool then start acting up. If totally flooding and wet that's floats, choke, needle valve usually all of which are trouble areas by age never mind miles.

Floats can sink or be heavy from being soaked in fuel. If so fuel level in bowl would be too high and always run rich - way too rich sometimes.

Gotta go soon for a while but other common crap with the age are things like ..... distributor vacuum advance, fuel pump rubber giving out, carb gaskets that hate the alcohol in much fuel used now,
vacuum leaks on vacuum trees or broken trees. Thermal sensor to pick up hot air off exhaust may be stuck to hot exhaust always which is too hot when warm. You could do without that at all just less chance of running perfectly faster from cold starts.

Can't be sure for a truck engine but the cam gear of timing chain at 21,000 miles might still be in there. Age alone if so is probably throwing chunks off of it and might jump off time and back on somehow by miricle can jump back to correct. Hard to know without looking at it if that type.

If this isn't a fuel issue but probably is the distributor shaft bushings could be worn. Low miles or not they may have had extended short runs and the oil didn't get time to keep them lubed. That will show with your dwell meter alone or moving shaft and looking at points how much more they might open if pushed that direction. By dwell meter the dwell would change by more than 5 degress - an indicator of worn distributor shaft bushings.

One more maybe for now. This may use a heat riser on exhaust manifold stuck shut. It if equipped would be a heat sensitive spring with a weight acting like a choke for exhaust. It should be freely moving - HOT - so test movement when cold. If stuck and was designed into that engine it shoots hot exhaust thru one exhaust manifold to the other really warming up intake manifold but must open and chill out as way too hot would fire incoming fuel too easy - hence backfires.

That's a bit of junk to test out and look at. If it's been running rich and for a while now spark plugs would be taking a hit and fouling up fast too.

Enough for the moment. Loren may have some ideas too as he's a senior member of the OPC (old phart club) a point where we knew this stuff new and now fighting to remember - oh just laugh,

Tom

Response From klavinblack

Thanks a lot. I'll check out some of those things and see if I can put this to rest.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

klavin; Without going back and re-reading all of the posts..... Ten BTDC sounds a bit much. I'd slide it back to about 6. (with the vacuum advance disconnected from vacuum source). With the timing light hooked up, rev the engine to 2000 rpm and recheck the timing (again, without the vacuum advance) checking the centrifugal advance. Take the reading and post it. Then, reconnect the vacuum advance and take the readings at idle and 2000 rpm and post them (should be in the neighborhood of 35 degrees, total). Another thing I'd want to check is valve lash. You could very easily have a tight valve which will be worse as the engine warms. Small block Chevs are easy to adjust. With the engine running at normal operating temp, loosen the first rocker arm until you hear it clicking. Tighten just enough to where the clicking stops. Then, in 1/4 increments, tighten one full turn. Do this to each rocker arm. (3/4 turn is usually sufficient). The engine will likely falter and maybe even die as you are cranking down. If you do it slowly, you'll be fine. This shouldn't happen on an engine with 21K miles, but small block Chevs are know for the cam lobes going flat, usually on #7 or #8. You should check to make sure that the rocker arms are getting full travel on those cylinders, especially. A flat cam lobe will cause a backfire under acceleration. At temp, connect a vacuum guage to manifold vacuum. Take a reading at idle. Raise the rpm to 2500 and take another reading. The guage should be steady, as in the needle not 'bouncing', and the reading should be as great or greater than it was a idle.
With all of this said, I'm assuming (I hate that word..lol) that all of the secondary is okay (plug, wires, cap, rotor, points, condensor) and you have good coil output. Hard to check without a scope.

Response From klavinblack

Thanks Loren, I'll check all that out and hopefully solve this thing. I'm working on my kitchen at the same time, so I have to sneak out to the garage without my wife seeing me. I guess she has figured out that I'm having an affair with a 58 Chevy.